In short
A Book with Legs Podcast Summary
Episode Title
Randall Sullivan - Graveyard of the Pacific
Podcast Description The podcast "A Book with Legs," hosted by Smead Capital Management, explores value investing through discussions with authors about influential books. The aim is to enhance understanding and knowledge for all listeners interested in investment and business.
Episode Overview In this episode, Randall Sullivan discusses his book "Graveyard of the Pacific: Shipwreck and Survival on America's Deadliest Waterway," which focuses on the perilous history of the Columbia River Bar, a treacherous maritime crossing. The episode delves into the dangers of the area, personal experiences of crossing the bar, and the historical context surrounding numerous shipwrecks.
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Key Takeaways
Background of Randall Sullivan
- Professional History: Contributing editor for *Rolling Stone*, author of several titles, executive producer for notable media projects.
- Motivation for Writing: Inspired by a significant event involving shipwrecks during his childhood and his family's seafaring background.
The Columbia River Bar
- Geographical Features:
- Enormous drainage from British Columbia, Montana, Idaho, Oregon.
- Unique lack of a delta, leading to dangerous conditions at the mouth of the river.
- Dangerous Conditions:
- Unpredictable shallow areas and strong currents create a deadly environment for vessels.
- The interaction of river currents and ocean waves increases the risk of capsizing and stranding boats.
Historical Context
- Significant Shipwrecks:
- The episode discusses various historical shipwrecks, including the *Peter Iredale*, which became a prominent landmark and reminder of the bar's dangers.
- The first recorded shipwreck, the *William and Anne*, highlights early maritime challenges.
- Pilotage and Rescue Efforts:
- Flavel, a prominent bar pilot, demonstrated heroism in rescuing ships and crews during storms.
- The necessity of local pilots for navigating dangerous waters has been established by law.
Personal Journey Across the Bar
- Crossing Experience:
- Sullivan recounts his journey across the bar in a trimaran, emphasizing the risks and psychological motivations behind undertaking such an adventure.
- Experiences shared between Sullivan and his friend Ray reflect on their challenging childhoods and the catharsis of confronting personal fears.
- Navigational Challenges:
- The importance of knowing tides, currents, and geographical features to safely navigate the bar.
- Discussions on maintaining navigational buoys and the significance of pilot boats.
Modern Context and Continued Risks
- Ongoing Dangers:
- Despite advancements in navigation and safety measures, the Columbia River Bar remains hazardous, with annual fatalities.
- The episode stresses the importance of respect and caution when approaching the bar.
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Conclusion Randall Sullivan's book provides a haunting yet educational look into the history and dangers of the Columbia River Bar. The podcast episode brings to life personal stories alongside critical historical events, offering listeners both insight and a gripping narrative.
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Additional References
- Podcast Links: Listeners can find the podcast on platforms like Apple, Spotify, and YouTube.
- Contact Information: For book recommendations and discussions, listeners can email podcast@smeedcap.com.
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This summary captures the essence of the podcast episode with Randall Sullivan, detailing his insights on maritime history, personal experiences, and the ongoing dangers of the Columbia River Bar.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:02You're listening to A Book With Legs, a podcast presented by Smeed Capital Management. At Smead Capital Management, we advise investors who fear stock market failure. You can learn more at SmeadCap.com or by calling your financial advisor.
0:20Welcome to a Book with Legs podcast. I'm Cole Smead. I'm the CEO and a portfolio manager here at Smead Capital Management. At our firm, we are readers and book junkies. It can be said that leaders are readers and we believe books provide us a great source of information for filtering what is and isn't important for us as investors. Investing is the last great liberal art and the best way to spend a lifetime of learning. This podcast is for readers, thinkers, business-minded people, and investors who want to grow their knowledge from great authors and their writing. Charlie Munger often talks about using multiple mental models and analysis.
0:52Our aim for this podcast is to help listeners test Munger's theory in business, markets, and people. We are glad you joined us for this episode. We're going to talk about a journey across the Columbia River Bar that will also teach you about the history and the level of danger that is present there to this day. Joining us to talk about his new book, Graveyard of the Pacific, is author Randall Sullivan. To give a little background on Randall, he was a contributing editor for Rolling Stone magazine for over 20 years. His work has also been published in Esquire, Outside, Men's Journal, The Washington Post, and The Guardian.
1:28Mr. Sullivan has also published titles including Dead Wrong, The Price of Experience, Labyrinth, The Miracle Detective, and Untouchable. He was also the executive producer for the Oprah Winfrey Network series Miracle Detectives, made an appearance on the History Channel's The Curse of Oak Island, and was executive producer of The City of Lies, starring Johnny Depp and Forrest Whitaker. He is also a longtime member of the Writers Guild of America. Randall, thank you for joining us today. Thanks for having me, Cole. So, you know, you live in Oregon, in Gearheart, like you mentioned. What inspired you to write this history and also teach people about your personal story?
2:05So there was one particular catastrophe involving several boats, including two Coast Guard boats that went down. It was huge news in the little town where I was growing up. And my father had been a seaman, so his stories of the sea were one of the ways that I was most connected with him. And his fascination with that event, this sinking of three boats and loss of seven lives, was something I heard a lot about. And he told me that when he was going to sea, the most frightening experience he ever had was the first time he crossed the Columbia Bar on a ship, which he was certain was going to founder on a sandbar, but was saved by, he thought, a brilliant captain.
2:50So when I moved back to the coast, you know, later in life, after living in many other places, including New York and Los Angeles, the thought came, this singular feature of the planet is right there. I had been across it on a fishing boat before, as a lot of people have. But, you know, reading about the natives going across in their big canoes. And anyway, I got to thinking about I Want to Cross It, and I wanted to do it with my friend Ray, who is an adventurer, and we share a lot of similarities in our background that have to do with us taking risks in our lives. And I wanted to write about that also.
3:29So it was – and then once I took those two steps, I realized there has never been a really great history of the Columbia Bar written. So I'm going to do that too. so to your point you know there's there's parts of your book and i and i can't remember if you mentioned this but i'm pretty sure you do you mentioned the maritime museum there in astoria and i i also since most people probably don't know this uh that you know are listening to this podcast you know but i also have thought i'd have my dad share you know what my grandfather did on the river and therefore kind of our interest in your story as well so do you want to maybe mention that so yeah our family our family history is incredibly closely tied to the columbia river and includes the mouth of the river so my dad's family when trains finally brought people out to portland in the early 1880s came out commercial fished and farmed my dad gill netted as as a teenager uh then became a tugboat skipper uh the last tugboat he skippered was the peter w when i ever think about the Peter Iredale.
4:30I always think about the Peter W. that my dad captained. And then in 1966, he joined the pilots. And I can remember him preparing for the test. We had a videotape recorder, which was quite the technology in 1966. And he was having to memorize every inch of the bottom of the river, including out at the bar where your story takes place. And then once he joined the pilots, all his pilot buddies were all fishing down at the mouth of the river. So I caught my first big fish at age 10 off the South Jetty. I caught a 36 pound Chinook salmon, and I've never caught a fish, a salmon anywhere near that size since then.
5:15So let's take a 30 ,000 foot view, because I think you start out your book telling, you know, just kind of the really the interesting feature of the river to follow on what Bill was just mentioning in terms of, you know, my grandfather. Can you give our listeners, and you do this in the book so well, give them a sense of, you know, just the Columbia River itself. What's the area it draws from? How vast is that before we get down to its mouth? Yeah, well, the Columbia River has an enormous drainage system that begins in British Columbia, takes in most of Montana, Idaho, Oregon, and parts of other states.
5:55On an annual basis, it usually is second to the Mississippi-Missouri system in total drainage, but there are years when it exceeds. There's more water flowing through the Columbia than there is through the Mississippi-Missouri combined. But because it comes down out of the mountains and is close to mountains most of the way, that's a steep fall of cold water into the river that keeps it really moving. And as a result of that, it doesn't have a delta at its mouth, like the Mississippi or the Nile or the Amazon or nearly all of the world's other great rivers. So the water literally pours, slams, might be a better word, into the Pacific Ocean.
6:45And that's what's created this unique feature, the Columbia River Bar. Yeah. I've crossed the bar probably 100 times, like you say, sport fishing. But explain to our audience what makes the mouth so unusually odd and dangerous. Again, you've hinted at it already, but talk a bit about the two forces meeting each other at that point. Yeah, well, there's no diffusion of the force of the river in a delta. So it's flowing straight into the ocean. And that's essentially what creates it. But it's bringing a lot of silt with it all the way, which has created a very dense network, very complicated network of sandbars at the mouth of the river.
7:38And some of those places are pretty shallow. So when this river pours into the ocean, right at that point, where it's really shallow, and you have big waves coming in off the ocean, they tend to sort of build on top of each other. The current pushes under, lifts the waves even higher, and makes the clash that much more dramatic and potentially deadly. so you you do a good really good job explaining the geography and and um you you mentioned sandbars but they're referred to as the spits um that sit at at you know what's today now the north and south jetty but obviously those jetties weren't there uh you know 200 years ago from a from a boating perspective you know for people that have never seen a sandbar or spit like that what what makes what makes uh you know that those areas so dangerous for someone bringing a ship in Well, it's mainly that for many years, the shallows were so unpredictable that it was easy to run aground on one of the sandbars.
8:44That was probably the principal cause among many of shipwrecks on the bar. The bar is, it's surrounded by, or flanked by two spits. one of them known as clatsop spit is most is sand but it's hard pack sand and generally if a ship or boat is pushed up onto that it's basically stranded in the sand but it can be pinned against that sandbar too and with really forceful waves slamming it against the even sand over and over a ship can come apart on the other side is peacock spit which is the most singularly lethal feature of the Columbia Bar because it's a sand-encrusted bornite, essentially a kind of rock.
9:34So you thump against that hard and it will punch a hole, even in a steel-sided ship. So you have to come between those two obstacles and you have to go by the two channels that they've always existed, but they've been in a way fortified by the creation of the jetties and by dredging. So can you just give us a sense, you know, for people that are looking at that map and trying to understand how far out Peacock Spit and Clatsop Spit go, how many miles or how many feet does that go out past the mouth of the river? Well, Peacock Spit doesn't extend miles. It's hundreds of feet. Clatsop Spit is a really large piece of sand land that probably – but essentially they mark the edges of the bar.
10:40They're barely – the ends of them are just outside the bar, but they're all along the entrance of the bar. What the creation of the jetties did was really narrow and in a lot of ways intensify what happens at the mouth of the Columbia. The reasoning was that the increased force of water would push out the sandbars and create a more consistent depth. but it also concentrates all the drama in what was once a span of five miles into what is now about a mile. Yeah, the Astoria Bridge is three miles wide, and then what's the width between the two jetties that really are the passable part of the opening there?
11:30Right at what's called the jaws, as in jaws of death, it's just about a mile. Yeah, and you talk a lot about the jaws, And to your point, I think the other thing that is hard, I think through your storytelling of all the shipwrecks, which we'll get into some of those, I think the other thing is you've got to think about the tides. I mean, you did a wonderful job explaining how tides also affect. So can you teach our listeners, like, what's the change in tide and how it affects, to your point, the depths that someone would pass by those spits at? Well, obviously, you know, a flood tide is going to, you know, you have a higher water level generally.
12:07Right at the mouth. But then, but you're also have to push against that. I mean, actually, I've heard varying opinions about whether you'd rather go out on a flood tide or a ebb tide, because they both create issues, the force of the water behind you as opposed to the force of water in front of you. But in our case, since we were going in a non-motorized craft, we had no choice but to go out on a flood tide because the biggest danger we faced was going into the water and then being carried out to sea. The flood tide, the rising tide would have held us close to the mouth and would have given us a longer time to be saved and recovered.
12:55uh yeah so that was why we did it so uh for the for the history of the jetties though the jetties had been you know there's kind of a roughly almost a hundred year history to those so can you teach you know which jetty came first what was the rationale and and um the history of the jetties well the south jetty came first and was the only jetty for some considerable period And the reason for that, for it being built first, was that the south side of the river was generally the more variable. The sandbars were much less predictable. Many more ships were foundering because of getting caught in the sands.
13:40The north tended to be deeper, even though it was very dangerous because of Peacock's Pit. but at least the depth was reasonable. But ships generally had to come in by the south and leave by the north. And in certain weather, virtually no ship of the 19th century felt comfortable coming in across the bar on that south jetty because the sand was so unpredictable. So they would sometimes wait outside the bar for weeks at a time before they could get weather that would allow them to come in and still many sank. So anyway, the construction of the South Jetty of the Columbia Bar was one of the biggest construction projects, public works projects in the history of the United States.
14:31Really, only the Erie Canal and arguably the Brooklyn Bridge would have compared with it at the time, the level of labor and expense and the years it took to build it. But it was successful in that it flushed out a lot of the sand and created a sort of predictable depth. The problem was that it began to shift the sound. It was flushing the jetties were successful in flushing the sand out of the south channel, but a lot of it just moved over to the north channel, which made that in and out, especially out, way more dangerous and difficult. So eventually it was decided they were going to have to build North Jetty too.
15:14And that was, the North Jetty takes the greater pounding. And so it was in some ways more difficult to build, even though they had better equipment and could use larger rocks and all of that when they, you know, starting decades later. But it takes such a pounding that it has to be, the maintenance of it is, you know, goes on unceasingly, really. That was going to be our next question. How hard is it to maintain these jetties? Well, it's a huge and ever ongoing operation. They've been really working on the North Jetty, you know, intensely over the last couple of years, because the force of the river, it's difficult for people to imagine the force of that river and what it does.
16:02It literally wears away rock. I mean, the best illustration of it I got was from the commander of the Coast Guards Rescue School, who had been working on a boy tender and was telling me that they had to raise the boys every year and put new chain on them. When he saw the size of the chain, it was like an inch in diameter, links of case-hardened steel. And he couldn't believe that we're going to have to replace them a year later. But when he was on the same ship, when it pulled the buoys they placed earlier down, and those inch lengths were now about a quarter inch. About three quarters of an inch of steel had been worn away in one year by the intensity of the Columbia's flow.
16:52So there's also a buoy system. And I can remember from my fishing trips in my younger years, In an ideal world, you could fish at buoy six, but if fishing was tough, you might have to go all the way out to buoy two. So there was even number of buoys outside the mouth, and then there's odd numbers inside the mouth. Is this a good system? Did that really help things, or does that help navigators, that buoy system? Yeah, tremendously. I mean, because, I mean, one of the things that the pilots learn is, you know, what the depths are at where in the river. So, and the buoys are the main markers, indicators of where you are in the mouth of the Columbia and how, what kind of depth or how consistent or reliable the depth is.
17:48So, they, you know, they are essential. Yeah. So what ultimately caused Congress to care about what was going on at the mouth of the river? Well, it was that the Northwest, the resources of the Northwest started to become of national importance. People, you know, timber and grain being the two primary concerns. And the main way to get it to the rest of the world was out through the mouth of the Columbia by ship. It was far more economical to do it by ship than it was by rail. But the railroads actually only accelerated the intense focus on the mouth of the Columbia because more and more goods could get to Portland, which was the economic center of the whole region.
18:40At that time, Portland was a larger and more significant city than Seattle. So it was really the economic hub of the entire region. So there was a recognition that the Columbia River Bar is a key, essential feature of what we need to do to get resources from one place to another. So let's talk about the most visited shipwreck of really the bar's history, which is the Peter Iredale, which just so our listeners know, you can visit at Fort Stevens State Park. Explain to our audience what caused its demise. Well, it was bad weather and being pushed against the sand. It was clouds of spit in that case.
19:31So it's the sandbars on the south side of the river, which catch many ships. And it took, you know, the captain, you know, recognized the situation was difficult. and had thought he'd chosen the right time to try to come across and to avoid clats of spit. But the weather and the wind are so unpredictable, and often it comes in swooping gusts that even the engine of a large ship can't resist. And so basically it foundered in the sand, but it happened to come so far aground that virtually the entire ship was visible for a long time, just sitting on the sand at what is today Fort Stevens. But gradually, you know, the front of it, the sprit fell into the sea, other things fell into the sea, but the steel bones of it have remained.
20:39And they're really by far the most visible evidence of, well, the danger at the bar, but of a shipwreck that exists on the entire Oregon coast. And it's visited by hundreds of thousands of people every year because it's such a dramatic setting. And that happens to be a place where just by the nature of the tides, you know, the Japanese current, as it's called, things wash up there, you know, dead whales wash up there and other animals, but also, you know, the wrecks of smaller ships. So it's sort of a sentinel for of the, you know, everything that, you know, all the demise in the sea. and it's and it's you know it's an impressive it's still an impressive you know remains of a and then well also i mean to your point it's very it's very visited um i mean just to give you a sense i think you have a picture of the peter dyer today on the book but um you'll see lots of videos of people in the water around the iron hole um things of that nature and and you obviously have some own your own personal history from you know family you've laid to rest there as well That's true.
21:54Well, first my father, and then my mother asked that their ashes be scattered at the Peter Eardale. So really, that was their funeral, in a way. I mean, they had memorial services, but having me and one of my brothers scatter their ashes there was their last contact with earth and going out to sea. Yeah. The first recorded ship lost was 1829 with the William and Anne. Explain this boat's route to the Pacific Northwest and how the convoy traveling with it dealt with the bar. Well, the convoy was an American ship, and they encountered each other as they approached the bar. They both had what were then always epic journeys to get to the bar.
22:48The British ship had gone about 9 ,000 miles, or maybe it was 12, as I'm thinking about it, because they'd made many stops along the way. And the only way then was to go around the tip of South America. So you had to go around the Cape of Horn, which was a rough passage, to say the least, even especially in those days. They stopped in Hawaii. There were many stops along the way to collect goods that they were intended to trade with the natives at the mouth of the river for furs, which were probably the most valuable commodity on the planet at that time. And well into the late 18th, well into the 19th century, furs were more valuable than gold, literally.
23:39So both ships were planning to trade the goods they were bringing in for furs. They encountered each other approaching the mouth, decided to go across together for safety. The convoy was an American ship. But the convoy led because it was assumed that the American had more knowledge of the Columbia Bar. The William & Mary coming second, you know, got caught in the storm, a storm. The convoy to save itself caught a wind and, you know, got in over the bar into Baker Bay. But the William & Anne disappeared. So the convoy remarkably really sent a lifeboat with sailors out to look for it and saw that it was pinned against clatsop spit being slammed against the sand by the ocean.
24:29The storm was terrible. The men in the boat said they couldn't make it. You know, they either had to, you know, they had to turn back or they were going to go down too. So that was the last that was seen of the William and Anne, which went down with, you know, all hands. It was the remains of the ship were discovered sometime later, way north or pretty far north, where the Clatsop tribe had basically taken possession of it. in the opinions of the European settlers. There was suspicion that they may have killed. There might have been some surviving members of the crew who might have been killed, but either way they were taking all the valuables off the ship.
25:14And so they showed up in force, and there was a standoff. It only resulted in one death, but it was enough to basically disperse the Clatsop tribe. It ended up marking the end of that tribe as an intact group. We did a podcast with author Peter Stark on his book that talks about this as well. But let's talk about the Tonquin arriving in 1811 to cross the bar. Captain Thorne was a hero, but not in his attempt to cross the bar. What transpired in March of 1811 in their attempts to cross? Well, they were one of two groups that John Jacob Astor had sent west to try to set up a fur trading post at the mouth of the Columbia.
26:01There was an overland group, which made it also, but the ship, the Tonkin, arrived first. You have to bear in mind that there wasn't a great deal of knowledge about the Columbia Bar or the mouth of Columbia. He had relatively few vessels that had ever been across it. He arrived on fairly difficult conditions, but had no idea, I think, that it might improve. And so he sent one of his boats out with his first mate, who his only knowledge of the bar was that he'd had a family member in a boat that had tried to go across it. and had disappeared and drowned. And so he was terrified of it, but he was ordered to do so anyway.
26:54And as he was getting into the boat, he called out, you know, I'm sure you've seen the last of me. And it was. That was the truth. They watched the boat get in as far, you know, not even, certainly not past Clats of Spit, really into the teeth of the bar, and they saw it come up the top of one wave, head down into the trough of the next, and that was the last they ever saw of it, or the men aboard. So Captain Thorne was not going to be dissuaded, so he ordered his second mate to take another boat and try to cross the bar and sound it and raise a flag to tell that he'd found depth. I think it was 30 or 35 feet he had to have.
27:41So that boat got onto the bar, But the mate who was in charge realized that basically he got terrified and withdrew, came back to the ship, which infuriated the captain. He sent yet another boat with the man he considered his best sailor at the helm. There were also two Hawaiians on that boat. There was about 30 Hawaiians on the Tonkin, all who'd been given by the Hawaiian king during the stopover there to join the crew. So it was an assortment of people. And they actually went on to the bar, sounded it. The sounding line then was just basically a rope with a weight, raised the flag saying, you know, it's safe.
28:31It's, you know, you've got 30 feet. And at that moment, Thorne just happened to catch a wind and rode straight in across the bar. But he went right by that boat as it was heading back to the ship, hopefully, to be taken aboard. But Thorne made the decision that we can't pause to collect them. They're on their own and went in across the bar. And that boat went down also and all but one aboard or all but two aboard died. Yeah, because I think I remember one of them was found out near Cape Disappointment, like on the beach, practically half dead from hypothermia. And that same tale could be, I mean, that was in 1811.
29:17Here in 2023, someone could probably wash a short Cape Disappointment with hypothermia. It's just really not so much change. Yeah, people lose their life every year at the mouth of the river, don't they? Yeah, yeah. It's never stopped being dangerous. It's not as dangerous as it was back then because of the jetties, mainly, and because it's so well mapped. But even though people know the danger of peacock spit and other, it's still on a foggy night when you're having to gain speed to get across. something that pushes you, a wave that you didn't expect or a wind you didn't expect can push a ship or a boat with impact that would sink the ship or boat and put those aboard in the water.
30:12There's a lot more saved now because the Coast Guard has become, I mean, they do all their training for sea rescue because they think it's the most dangerous place in the world to operate a boat. So that's what they train their rescue coxswains to work. And so, I mean, you feel like your odds are reasonably good when you're out there. But I think everybody's aware that if for some reason we should go in the water, who knows? So you mentioned something in your book that got my mind just absolutely running and racing and really trying to think of this as kind of an analogous situation for humanity.
31:00But when you talked about this is under kind of like the idea of incentive structure. So the wreck of the mermaid that you have in your book teaches me that people can have really perverse incentives for what would seem like good reasons. And so could you explain like what happened to the mermaid, which obviously you explained somewhat? It was a crabbing boat. But why would these gentlemen want to stay on a boat when their lives are in danger? Well, because that boat was their lifeblood, their major investment. I mean, they had everything in that boat. And they were out in it on a rough day that didn't look as bad as it turned out to be.
31:45because they had crab traps out there that they had to recover because the danger for them, I mean, the initial one was that their traps were going to become sanded in, and once they get under a certain level of sand, you can't lift them out even with a strong winch. So they were wanting to get their crabs and their crab pots too initially. But once they were out and they realized how dangerous it was, and, you know, I mean, by then they knew for sure how dangerous it was. One Coast Guard ship had already gone down, but they couldn't be talked off of it because they believed, and they were right about that, that the Coast Guard would have just, you know, would have taken them off and just let the boat go.
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32:35And so it would have, chances are it would have been wrecked somewhere and probably destroyed. and they were determined to not lose that boat. So the mermaid though, and I think this kind of gave me the real picture for the idea of the wind and the culmination of the surf or the ocean because I think you comment that it's believed to be that the mermaid would seem like in my mind like the low of a wave. In effect, it gets at the bottom of a wave and the force that came on top of it ended up driving it into Peacock Spit. In other words, driving it and sticking the boat in the sand, which it never left.
33:16Yeah, that's essentially what happened to the mermaid. It just happened to be in a trough as a wave came down on it. I mean, generally you're trying to slide up and over the waves as they come in, but they just got positioned. They were being towed. the tow rope broke and they had no, you know, no power themselves. So they were completely at the mercy of the sea. So, so now that we hope you've done a great job. And by the way, the book does a great job on, on this history. So let's get into your journey. Given all that, you know, you, you two men wanted to cross the bar with all this risk present on a trimarine.
34:01Talk to us about that. Well, you know, the real adventure of crossing the bar, we knew, would be to do it in a non-motorized craft, especially in a really light non-motorized craft. A trimaran is essentially a sail kayak. It's about 19 feet long, but only about less than two feet wide. It has one sail, though. And it's a Hobie boat, and it has what's called mirage drive, which is basically pedals that actually do provide some additional acceleration out there. So you have, between the sail and the pedals, some ability to keep in motion and stay in motion. But again, it's non-motorized, so the impact of the waves, especially at the mouth, is something you just hope it will navigate.
35:03But the trimaran also has two—it's not simply a kayak. It has a pair of pontoons. They look fragile because they're about six inches wide each, but they do provide a lot of stability and buoyance. buoyancy. But at the same time, you know, they can and will, and in our case did come apart if they're sufficiently pounded. But anyway, you know, we, my friend Ray said, you know, this would be way easier if we just, you know, went across in jet skis. And I said, yeah, but I don't want it to be easy. And he understood that he understood that, you know, only by, you know, doing something that really challenged us and that involved the actual risk of our lives.
35:52Were we going to feel like we'd actually done something? Yeah, we all grew up as kids with spare the rod and spoil the child. And in many cases, there were unskilled dads applying that edict. And when I say unskilled, meaning not able to separate their own temperament and tempers with that. So talk about Ray and yourself having that same rough relationship with your fathers. And you kind of expound on how maybe cathartic this experience was for you. Well, Ray and I had been friends for more than 20 years. But the friendship was sort of always founded on and anchored by the shared experience we had as boys, essentially of being beaten as boys, and severely in both cases.
36:54And by fathers who were, in a lot of ways, you know, venting their own troubles, their own demons on us. Very different. I mean, my father was a man of great accomplishment and presence and raised not so much. He had inherited wealth that he was squandering, basically. So there were different situations, but we shared that sense. And I think we both understood that you could call it compulsion, I guess, But this need that we had to do difficult and dangerous things was rooted in those childhood experiences, that there was something we got from a sense of mastering, you know, difficult things and dangerous things, surviving them, that provided some sort of relief from, you know, the lingering pain we carried from our childhoods.
37:58And this was, but this time we sort of explicitly bonded with each other around the idea of this is going to be, you know, a catharsis. This is going to be, you know, will we put that all to rest? And so we shared a lot with each other about what had happened. I mean, he told me things about his childhood. I don't think he'd ever told anyone, and I told him things about mine. And that was all part of our preparation for crossing the bar, even as we were studying the bar. I was studying the history of the bar. It all became sort of one project in my mind and in his too. so explain the routes that you did during your practice run because you guys you know work you did stuff inside the bar you were outside the bar at times you know explain that versus what was your final route and i i just so the audience knows there's a great map in the book of of your guys final uh descent through the bar well we were you know we were joined by a third party and uh And Kenny Smith, who is one of the great watermen on the West Coast, can basically navigate any craft.
39:11And he's somebody nobody ever forgets meeting because he's six feet, nine inches tall. And he's a scientist to boot. So he agreed to go across in his own boat. But he helped us decide the path and the time. I initially thought we were going to go by the South Channel next to Clatsop Spit But I think in large part, as scientific and rational as he is Kenny had this sort of irrational terror of Clatsop Spit He had a phobia about it So he insisted that no, you've got to go by the North Channel Next to Cape Disappointment and Peacock Spit And, you know, we relied on his opinion about the best day to do it.
40:04I was soliciting the opinion of others. I had Tom Malloy, who ran the Coast Guard Rescue School. I was checking with him, too, on, you know, what would be the optimal times and conditions. But Kenny had said that, no, we had this perfect opportunity on this day in July, when there'd be a low pressure system just sitting there, the waves would be, the ocean would be relatively calm, the next wave train, as they're called, wouldn't be coming in for like 24 hours. and the wind would be just enough to fill the sail, but not enough to pose a real danger. So it sounded great. And it was until those waves came in much sooner than expected.
40:54I also liked when you guys were launching, everyone at Ilwako is looking at you. And obviously you and Ray are, what, 70 years old at the time? We were 69, about to turn 70. This was part of it. Yeah. Becoming men at 70, right? You weren't deep sea charters. Let me tell you that. Yeah. So everyone's looking at you as you're launching from the boat launch and they're thinking, those guys are going to die. Yeah. Well, I mean, as we were putting the boat together, they kept finding some reason to come by and look at it. And they all said exactly the same thing. You're going to cross the bar in that thing?
41:35so uh so so so you're out there you're in this unusual vehicle uh to say the least uh and and then you see a great white shark i mean what talk to us what that what that felt like or what was going through your mind as you saw that animal well it was more it was sort of that this too because i hadn't even thought about that we actually had did have some concern about the sea lions who were, they'd surfaced near us a couple of times. And they're, these are big animals. I mean, they're like 600 pounds, the bulls, and realized that one of them came up right under us, we'd be in the water. So we were watching out for them and prepared to, you know, try to fend them off with our oars.
42:20Each one of those sea lions eats an average of 2 ,000 pounds of salmon a year, which is astounding to me. Well, I mean, and that's, that's one of the reasons people really think they need to be culled because they have made a huge impact on, on, uh, salmon fisheries and, you know, and they've just kept moving further, you know, I mean, they're, yeah, they're, I mean, they're all, all through the Willamette river at the Bonneville dam. Yeah. By the way, I, I, all these things we've been talking about, whether we're talking about sea lions and salmon runs, it reminds me of a physics equation. Like earlier you said, you know, by, uh, fortifying the South jetty.
42:57It did improve the South jetty. It just ruined the North jetty. Right. In other words, these are adaptive environments. Equal and opposite reaction. So, you know, one theory that wasn't tested in this adaptive environment that we're talking about was, and I found this very peculiar. I wonder if this could ever even get to a political debate, but you talked about in your book that there was a theory running through Congress back in the 30s that peacock spit could just be removed. and that would fix everything. Okay. I mean, how crazy is this? I mean, what was the rationale at the time? And then, I mean, does that even seem plausible or possible?
43:37Well, it's completely implausible. And it was ridiculous to people who actually lived at the coast or near the mouth of the river. And, you know, the Astoria paper said, well, you know, why don't we just move the Cascade mountains, you know, to increase rainfall or, you know, we could just, maybe you should shift Multnomah falls to the West Hills of Portland so more people can enjoy them, it would make as much sense and be as plausible. But they were so unconscious of the physical reality at the mouth of the bar and what getting rid of peacocks would entail that for a while, the main argument was whether WPA workers should be the ones doing it or not.
44:20Sure. until the people who lived here said, there is exactly zero chance you're going to remove Peacock's bed. Yeah. So you talk about your dad's career as a walking boss for Mattson Lines. I think the really interesting part of your book with this was not when you were living, obviously, near Astoria. It was when you moved away to Portland. Explain how much money your dad made relative to other, I'll call it blue-collar oriented jobs like that. But what kind of neighborhood that put you into Portland and thus what kind of culture that dropped you into when you moved? Yeah, well, I was growing up in a small town on the coast, Coos Bay, where most of my friends or classmates, dads, you know, either worked on the docks or were loggers or were fishermen.
45:13It was a very blue-collar and rough world. And my dad was sort of, you know, he was the very top guy. You know, he'd become a walking boss basically is sort of a super foreman. They are the ones in charge of the loading and unloading of ships. And it's usually something that you train for. You work as a longshoreman for many years and, you know, eventually you rise to that position, which is very well paid. He got it when he was in his 20s, which is still the youngest. He's still the youngest person who ever was promoted to walking boss, which is even more remarkable. I mean, I have to, obviously, there's a lot of admiration, I feel, for this man who did terrible things to me.
46:01But he had been on track to be the youngest merchant marine captain and was a first mate by the time he was 26. People were predicting he would be the first person promoted to captain in his 20s since, you know, like the 19th century or the early 20th. My mom made him quit and come ashore. So he started working as a longshoreman and very short order rose to the very top position. The opportunity to go to Portland, which he was being pressured to take by my mother, who wanted the hell out of that little town on the Oregon coast, resulted in us moving to Portland. And what his income was then exactly, I don't know.
46:45The very top ones now make about$400 ,000 a year, the walking buses. And he was the top one of his time. So he was making something commensurate to that. So I, from going from this blue collar community where, you know, everybody was kind of in the lower middle, we moved into a really upscale suburb. And I was going to a high school that the Oregonian described as, you know, Portland's country club high school. You know, and suddenly at a place where everybody else's dad was going to work in suits and ties. But my dad was still going to work in Frisco jeans and Pendleton shirts, but he was making more than most of those executives.
47:24Which, by the way, nowadays Pendleton shirts, they cost a lot. I mean, those are nice shirts. But Randall, now that you describe this, I'm almost sure that your dad knew my dad. And let me tell you, one of the ways I know is kind of humorous. There's two things my dad hated, and you brought this out great in the book. One was wind. as a ship pilot or a boat skipper, dad just hated the wind, right? He always, he'd just cuss at it when we'd get out to go across the bar. The second thing is he just hated it when the longshoreman went out on strike. Oh, my dad would go into this, he'd go into this big diatrap, right?
48:02Because that was cutting off his ability to do his thing, right? And of course they, you know, they're just doing their own economic interest. But that makes me sure that now that I stop and think about, they had to have known each other because one was at the top of the food chain with the one that interacted, you know, at the time my dad had to be a half an hour at the ship before the ship left. There had to be constantly interaction, you know, with the longshoremen finishing up what they were doing, et cetera, et cetera. It's crazy. So it wasn't that large a group of people in those days. I think there was 35 Portland ship pilots, right?
48:41My dad came in in 66. By the way, just so you know, on your note, when I was reading your book, Randall, my mom has told me that dad, since, you know, my grandfather was a Columbia River ship pilot and made good money outside of that at times, that my dad kind of lived on Snob Hill. So when you were explaining your Tony neighborhood in Portland, I was like, oh, I can hear my mother echoing through some of your story. But that's Snob Hill in Washougal. We're not talking about Snob Hill in Portland. We're talking about that's a little nicer. My dad never moved out of Washougal. So so let's jump to Flavel.
49:17It was the first real hero of the bar pilots. And for our listeners that were dealing with the bar pilots at the mouth of the river, you used the General Warren's demise as a picture to describe his heroism. Well, the General Warren was what made Flavel a public hero. He was already widely admired as the best pilot ever on the bar. He knew the mouth of the river like no one else. But he had, in the case of the General Warren, you know, it was a cumbersome ship that in those days, I mean, it's strange to think of what the cargo was. There were lots of people, but there were more live hogs and lumber and many other goods.
50:03And so he had actually taken the ship into the Columbia and out across the mouth where he put off as you normally would. But a storm just happened to come up. It was, you know, the immediacy of it was totally startling to the people at the time. And it was an intense cold front. You know, the weather couldn't be predicted. This is, you know, in the 19th century like it can now. So, you know, suddenly they're in the teeth of this, you know, hurricane winds, but also ice, you know, it's filled with icy rain and even snow. and the ship is in real trouble right away. I mean, the main mast is stripped off by the wind and they watch it catapulting across the water.
50:58It was that bad. But they did have a way to communicate with shore. They still had a system of that. And so he sent to shore that he needed Flavel. He wanted only one pilot to come back and that was Flavel. So Flavel is brought out by his ship, his pilot boat, and comes aboard, even though it's very dangerous to do so. But then he has to tell the captain that, you know, we're not going to be able to go in across the bar until the storm subsides. The captain can't accept it, and the passengers are all terrified. Everyone is pushing him to, you know, no, no, bring us in, please. He resists as long as he can and finally says, OK, we'll try.
51:49And they don't get very far before the ship starts to literally come apart. And the captain decides that the only way to save the ship and the cargo is to run it aground. Flavel tries to argue against that, says, you know, just, you know, let me I can keep this thing afloat if you let me. But the captain insisted on running it aground. And so now they were in real trouble. Nobody had any way to get there or even to know the distress they were in. They had one lifeboat left. All the others had been disintegrated by the storm. So who's going to get in that lifeboat and go across the bar? They were able to assemble, I think it was 11 people.
52:36They were passengers and crew who were willing to get in the lifeboat, but only a flabble commanded it. And as he's getting in, the captain calls, okay, okay, don't, no, come back, come back. But by then he's already pushed off. And he says, look, I will return if I live. That's all I can promise. Amazingly, he got the boat and all aboard into shore Found the captain of another ship Convinced him to let him borrow his whale boat Take that back out with the crew And see if he could help save the General Warren But by the time he made it, the General Warren had disintegrated completely And all he found were pieces of it and the dead in the water And on the shore Flavreau was also involved with the Great Republic's rescue in 1879.
53:30It ran into problems as well. Can you explain those problems? But can you also teach our listeners about, you know, the really interesting payload it had? Yeah, well, the Great Republic had a very complex payload. But, I mean, probably of greatest interest to people would be it had a lot of gold and silver from the Comstock mine and from the U.S. Mint. And so it was that alone was worth what today would probably be hundreds of millions of dollars. But I don't think I don't think that was the main focus. It was saving the people. But it really ran into trouble because they used a pilot who was Flavel and the ship's owners.
54:16And he even though he was warned to that he was getting too close to Sand Island. And Sand Island is this big sand island that was created by the dredging and that was done in the North Channel, mostly, of the Columbia. But even though it was relatively calm weather, he got too close. And when a gust pushed it up against, it was enough to heave a hole in the side. And so the ship began to take on water And eventually they managed to get all of the people off They didn't all survive But many horses drowned too that were on that ship But Flavel came back and managed to Well, he did his best, I would say to salvage the ship and the goods aboard.
55:12He wasn't entirely successful in that, but it was considered a pretty heroic effort. He'd done, just before that, he'd had another bit of public heroism where he went out to try to take the crew off another boat that had foundered, another ship that had foundered. And he did that. He saved everyone aboard by basically loading them all into lifeboats and chaining the lifeboats together and keeping them from taking them back and forth over the waves at the mouth of the channel through the night long enough for a ship to get there and take them aboard. And that was considered a very heroic deed too.
55:54Yeah, because the interesting part is back to the vastness. I think this is where your story reminded me of the power and the vastness of the Columbia River. The Comstock mine is in Virginia City, Nevada. Um, it's nowhere near the Columbia river. Um, but yet at the same time, that was the easiest way to get something like that out to port and out to, you know, uh, you know, much, uh, you know, vaster network across the world. Um, so the bar pilots association, uh, was tasked with crossing the bar with commercial ships and you give some of the history of who oversaw that association, what that association was, et cetera.
56:32Obviously we have the, you can Google online Columbia river Bar Pilots Association, and that's a trade organization just like the Columbia River Ship Pilots. Yeah, the law of the United States is that when a ship comes within 25 miles of the coast of the United States, it has to have a local pilot on it. So you also talked about how they boarded those ships. Why did it take so long for them to quit boarding the ships on what you called, and I love this, idiot sticks versus versus using a helicopter like they do today? Well, I mean, helicopters just didn't have the quality of helicopters. And I don't know if it was that nobody had thought of it, really.
57:14But helicopters were generally had a military purpose. They weren't used in in many industrial settings. I think it was believed that, they couldn't handle the winds out there. But in fact, ones of sufficient size could. But until that time, yeah, they had basically the pilot boat, which was a fair-sized vessel and well-made, although still it was dangerous to be aboard it too. But basically these guys would have to climb into a rowboat, and the idiot sticks were the oars they used to get from the pilot boat to the main ship, and then they had to climb up on ropes. Rope ladders, yeah. And they still often do get on and off ships on those rope ladders.
58:13Even though they're not often dropped on the deck directly. They aren't taken out. Often the boat will go out, they'll be on a raft or something, and the helicopter will pick them up, lift them up. But they usually come down off the boat on those ropes still. As recently as probably 1990, Captain Robert Morrison, a good friend of our family, he fell from the ship onto the deck of the pilot boat. And as a retirement gift was given that hunk of the steel plate was severely dented by him landing 20 feet at 250 pounds on that. And it sat in his backyard when I went to visit him. In talking about the outcome of the investigation from the sinking of the Iowa, you said something intriguing to us.
59:10Quote, what the words misjudged and failed should evoke in me, I decided after repeating them any number of times, was a firm conviction that the mouth of the Columbia River should never, under any circumstances, be approached without a sense of deference. And then I will add, I've been across the bar a hundred times, and until a few charters in the most recent years, I was always with a master mate and pilot crossing the bar. And they would many times not go out if there were small craft warnings, but yet amateurs would. So in our world, we call this stock market failure. Yeah, the idea that most people don't do well in the stock market.
59:49I thought a lot about this analogously. Crossing the bar is like taking risk in stocks. And so our question is, isn't your boat just explaining a great history of Columbia River bar failure? Yeah, the downside risk. Because no one talks about the people that survive, right? It's the failures. The failures are the more interesting stories, no doubt. But I mean, although, I mean, there were successful rescues at times. But yeah, I mean, the stories of, you know, these men at sea trying desperately to survive and often not doing so. You know, that's the drama. We always think about it like, you know, everybody's got that uncle that failed in the stock market, lost their entire net worth.
1:00:31OK. And that's the bar history has the story of everyone's uncle who died there or the ship that died. You know, I mean, so we found it just incredibly interesting. And this and this continues, because even today, you know, we were talking about there's there's in every year, there's three or four people that die on the bar just from doing something they shouldn't have been doing. So to keep going with that logic, teach our listeners what happened as recently as 2006 to Captain Kevin Murray when he attempted to climb down from a log boat to get onto the Chinook Tug. Well, he mistimed his descent, which is very easy to do out there.
1:01:08The waves are unpredictable. and in the fraction of a second between his release from that ladder he was climbing down to drop onto the boat, the boat moved enough that he went straight into the water and spent a long time there. It's actually amazing that he survived that. It's crazy. With Captain Murray, was he the gentleman that they found 75 miles away, his body? Yeah, yeah. Yeah, he basically, his beacon made him survive was he decided that he would just shoot the one light he had, the flashlight he had, straight up into the sky in the hopes that maybe somebody would see it. And a helicopter going by did see it, and they managed to drop him a rope.
1:02:02You know, you mentioned a log boat here. I must mention to you that when Mount St. Helens blew up, my dad was on a log ship in Longview and within 15 minutes of the mountain blow up was completely submerged in mud as that contributing system. Right. The Toodle River to the Kellis River to the Columbia River, adding to your original geography of the of the river. So on your journey, you mentioned something that I, after crossing the bar, I can think about it and I can see it in picture. But you mentioned a standing wave. Explain what a standing wave is at the Columbia River Bar. Well, there is a standing wave.
1:02:46I thought it was something sort of mythic, but it is a place, that point, where the tension between the outgoing river, the current of the Columbia River, the powerful current of the Columbia River, and the incoming tide of the Pacific Ocean meet, and there is enough sort of an equilibrium of tension. And the water just sort of seems to stop just in this one spot. And it's the high point of the bar. And you get this sense when you're there that you're like sitting on top of a small mountain of water and you're not going anywhere anymore, except maybe sliding sideways slightly. It's a terrifying and exhilarating experience.
1:03:37so there's a lot of shipwrecks and much of your and ray story that we didn't talk about today which like i said earlier i mean there's crazy stories that you dug up really and i just love and again it reminds me when you go to the maritime museum there and they have the little map where you can turn on the light of a boat and you hit a boat you know you could hit like for the you know um for like william and ann and it would light up the map of where that went down and you You have a good picture of many of the shipwrecks you talk about. But what did we not talk about today that you think needs to be mentioned from your book?
1:04:11Well, we didn't talk about the relationship of the native people to the mouth of the river and how they – I mean, the very first bar pilot was Chief Concomly, a one-eyed clatsop chief who pretty kindly greeted the first European visitors. and he guided nearly every ship that came in or out across the bar for quite some time. Of course, he didn't do it strictly as an act of beneficence. He was a businessman. He used the leverage he got from being the favorite of the European ship captains to give him power over the rest of the tribes' upriver, trading power. He would get goods at a price far below what he would trade them to the tribes upriver.
1:05:08But so there's that. And sort of the end of a whole way of life that happened when the Europeans arrived. Sure. I mean, the story of the first Spanish sailors who drifted ashore. and they were actually adopted into the tribe, but no one knew that they were marking the beginning of the end of that way of life. Other than chartering a fishing trip, how would you recommend our listeners experience? If they read your book and then want to experience the Columbia River Bar, besides going on a fishing trip in a large charter boat, what other ways are there to experience this? Well, you know, an exhilarating but somewhat risky way to do it is to go on jet skis.
1:05:55And that is done, you know, with some regularity. And it's, you know, if you've got a powerful motor, you know, you can, you know, it makes it a lot easier to get over the bar. And they do. So, you know, you're going to do a, you know, sort of a jarring hop, skip and jump across in a jet ski. but it gives you that full immersion experience of what it is to be on that water. And again, I would only suggest it for someone who is really physically fit and is willing to accept a certain amount of risk. Because if, for instance, your jet ski's motor should die, you'd be in some real trouble. And that water's cold.
1:06:41Yeah, by the way, you're not talking to a couple of gentlemen that I think are going to do that. But if any of our listeners do, we would love to hear that. I'm sure Randall would love to hear that he's out there, you know, getting people excited about taking fun risks. Under the other heading of a more jarring experience here recently, we got one other question for you. So you are a member of the Writers Guild of America, and we're shareholders in Warner Brothers Discovery. What's your take on the writers and actors' strike and where it may settle? Well, you know, this is a case where the writers and actors really see this as existential.
1:07:18I'm a somewhat detached party from that. I haven't been working actively as a screenwriter in years, but I do derive, I have derived a significant part of my income from my things being developed into, for film and television. I had something that looked like it was almost certainly going to get made right before the strike. So I do feel very personally invested in that. But with the advent of streaming, writers, the producers, especially Netflix, sort of began creating what are called writers' rooms. And individual writers would be run through there very quickly, so they couldn't get any sort of a sustaining job like you used to have if you worked in television.
1:08:04The residuals are not like they used to be in television. So for the bottom 90 % of writers, especially in television, it was becoming a tough gig. The very top, the showrunners are still making out because they give a piece of the show and they're not only really well paid, but they've got an ownership stake. So that, you know, less than 10 % of Writers Guild members, you know, have been doing very well, but the rest, it's been getting worse and worse and worse. They're concerned, naturally, about how AI might affect their futures. and the actors are too with the idea that they would do some work and it would be then manipulated or used or reused by an artificial intelligence program and they wouldn't get paid for it and wouldn't have any control over it or ownership of it.
1:09:04So those are issues that I think they're pretty desperate to get resolved and I think that's why it's gone on so long. and the producers have their side in it too. I mean, their issues of cost and share value and all of that. But I think both the writers and actors were willing to push it this time because they realized that it's their last chance, really, to protect themselves against this continuing erosion of their earning power. It's not Carl Reiner writing for the Dick Van Dyke show anymore. No, it's not at all. I mean, these guys who are just shuffled through, and women, you know, people who are shuffled through the writers' rooms, you know, they're being paid what probably sounds like a pretty good day wage.
1:09:55But, you know, they're only getting a little bit of, it's only a few days of work. And they're out really quickly, which is by design. It's kept, it just makes it cheaper to make the shows. but you know it's coming at the expense of the writers mainly and the actors also because the actors you know have traditionally depended on residuals to sustain them when they're not working and residuals are terrible now yeah and we've been really interested to think about that in light of to your point um this was different in a pre-streaming world what will this look like in a you know streaming or post-streaming world uh as we know it and as we also think a lot about you know, past post TV, we think the theatrical release is a very important format.
1:10:42And obviously, some people thought that was a dead format, too. So let's see, I just want to say, Randall, a I'd yet to run across a book that told just such a great history of the bar. Fantastic. You did such a good job of starting with the history of obviously the tribes and how rich they were. I love that. I love your connection to, you know, what was John Jacob ambassador and then bring it all the way forward. You know, just kind of the trajectory of the development, you know, of that area. So we really appreciate you joining us today. The Graveyard of the Pacific explains a haunting history of the Columbia River Bar through Randall Sullivan and Ray Thomas's personal journey across the bar.
1:11:20His book is the best experience to understand this without risking your life. If you enjoyed this podcast, go to Apple, Spotify, YouTube, or wherever you listen to A Book with Legs. Give us a review. Tell others about the books and great authors like Randall that we have the opportunity to understand the world with. For our tribe, if you have a great book that you'd like to recommend, email podcast at smeedcap.com. That's podcast at smeedcap.com. You can also send your suggestions to us on Twitter. Our handle is at smeedcap. Thank you for joining us for A Book with Legs podcast. We look forward to the next episode.
1:11:53Thank you for listening to A Book with Legs, a podcast brought to you by Smeed Capital management. The material provided in this podcast is for informational use only and should not be construed as investment advice. You can learn more about Smead Capital Management and its products at SmeadCap.com or by calling your financial advisor.
From the publisher
Randall Sullivan joins Cole and Bill for a conversation about his book, Graveyard of the Pacific: Shipwreck and Survival on America's Deadliest Waterway. The book describes the haunting history of the Columbia River Bar, one of the deadliest bar crossings on the globe, where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. The discussion covers the dangers associated with the area, the shipwrecks and lives lost, and Randall's first-hand journey crossing the bar.




