FAN FAVORITE: Teddy Roosevelt's Amazon Expedition | Headwaters | 1

14:21Candido Rondon:to be a relatively straightforward trip. How much trouble could there be?

14:30Candido Rondon:Theodore Roosevelt leans back in a leather chair and listens. It's October 1913 in Rio de Janeiro. Roosevelt is about to begin his six-week speaking tour of South America, and now he and Father Zahm are sitting across the desk from Laura Mueller, the Brazilian Minister of Foreign Affairs. Roosevelt is here to enlist the assistance of the Brazilian government to transport the expedition's boats and supplies overland to the Tapajos River. There, the men would start their voyage down the river, gathering bird and mammal specimens to send back to the museum in New York over the course of several weeks.

15:10Kermit Roosevelt:But the meeting is not going as Roosevelt expected. Mueller is now proposing that they consider a different itinerary. Mr. President, are you familiar with the Rio de Duvida? Roosevelt nods. Yes, the River of Doubt. When it was discovered, no man could determine just what its path was. Indeed, it was discovered some years ago in the Brazilian highlands by one of our foremost explorers, Colonel Candido Rondon. But no one has yet charted the river's path. It remains an empty space on every map. That would be quite a change in plans. Why us? Mueller explains that the publicity would help raise awareness of Brazil as an emerging nation on the world stage.

16:00Candido Rondon:Plus, it's an opportunity for Roosevelt to achieve something truly meaningful. Father Zahm clears his throat.

16:08Kermit Roosevelt:Uh, Mr. Mueller, just how long would it take to traverse this river of doubt? Well, it's somewhat hard to say. It's uncharted, after all. Mueller locks eyes with Roosevelt. Mr. President, think about it. You could proceed with your specimen gathering trip, or you could embark on something truly historic. Chart the river of doubt once and for all, and put another entry in the history books by the name Roosevelt.

16:40Candido Rondon:Roosevelt feels his pulse quicken. So little of the planet is truly wild anymore,

16:47Kermit Roosevelt:and here's a chance to be a pioneer. Father Zahm shifts in his seat. Mr. President, you can't seriously be considering this. Our plan was to sail down a known river on a comfortable steamboat and engage in some simple species collecting. I have prepared for us to travel that journey in high style. Indeed, Zahm arranged for the supplies, the boats, and the fanfare.

17:13Candido Rondon:He'd even hung banners over the docks in Rio de Janeiro. They were emblazoned with their initials R for Roosevelt and Z for Zom. But Roosevelt's mind is locked on this new possibility. Why go birdwatching when they can do what's never been done before? Chart an unexplored river. Mueller's pitch isn't over. He explains he's requested the expedition be led by none other than Candido Rondon, the man who discovered the river in the first place.

17:45Kermit Roosevelt:In Colonel Rondon's capable hands, Mr. President, this expedition will absolutely succeed. Roosevelt can hardly stay in his chair. It sounds bully to me. How could I say no? He turns to Father Zom, who's gone pale. But Roosevelt knows just the right thing to say to cheer him up. Come now, Father. Imagine the publicity. The old priest's face brightens. Just a little.

18:19Candido Rondon:Colonel Candido Rondon watches a truck approaching at high speed across an open field. He's standing on the high grassy plains of Mato Grosso in western Brazil, overseeing a small crew of men preparing to raise a telegraph pole.

18:34Kermit Roosevelt:They're fifth today. The truck is coming in fast. It must be something urgent. He calls out to his workers in Portuguese. Carry on. I'll return in a moment. At 48, Rondon is slim and fit, with dark hair and a thick green mustache. For years now, he's been leading the project to run telegraph lines across the entire nation of Brazil, all three million square miles of it. He and his crews have run lines across barren highlands and through dense jungles filled with poisonous snakes and vicious predators.

19:11Candido Rondon:They've raised thousands of poles and built countless telegraph stations in remote locations all over the country. It's brutal work.

19:20Kermit Roosevelt:But Rondon has let nothing stand in his way of uniting and modernizing the country. The work has brought Rondon and his crews into the territories of many indigenous communities.

19:31Candido Rondon:Some of them, like the Nambiquara Indians, have a reputation for turning violent against outsiders. It took years of gifts and peace offerings, coupled with a staunch refusal to initiate violence under any circumstances. But finally, Rondon managed to strike a treaty with the Nambiquara. So far, the peace has held, but not without incident.

19:56Kermit Roosevelt:Rondon himself has indigenous ancestry and is sympathetic to their plight. Still, Rondon worries the truck brings news of another Nambiquara attack. The driver steps from the cab and waves a telegram. It's from Minister Mueller in Rio de Janeiro. Rondon rolls his eyes. Mueller had been badgering Rondon for weeks now to accompany Theodore Roosevelt on a river excursion in the Amazon. You tell him again. I have no interest in plane tour guide for the president of the United States. The messenger hands him a telegram. The minister wants an answer immediately. Rondon reads the message. His eyes widen.

20:40Kermit Roosevelt:Somehow, Mueller has convinced Roosevelt to embark on something completely different, an expedition to finally chart the River of Doubt,

20:49Candido Rondon:the river that Rondon himself discovered in 1909. Rondon has been desperate to return so that he might trace the river's mysterious path

20:59Kermit Roosevelt:through the jungle. But the telegraph project has been all-consuming, and the government has stalled his pleas to fund an expedition. Until now. Rondon turns to the driver. Tell the minister I'm on board. Rondon smiles as the driver hops back into the truck. How can he possibly resist a journey into the uncharted reaches of the Amazon?

21:37Kermit Roosevelt:EDITH ROZOVELLT Edith Roosevelt paces nervously along the deck of a steamer ship as it cuts through the water. It's November 14th, and she's been traveling around South America on her husband's speaking tour for several weeks now. Once that tour is over, Teddy's expedition into the Amazon will begin. But a few weeks ago, the plans for that expedition changed. Now, Teddy is preparing to embark on a journey down an uncharted river filled with unknown perils. Edith is frantic with worry. This is much more complicated than what she'd anticipated. More than complicated, it's dangerous. Edith sits on a deck chair, closes her eyes, and tries to calm herself.

22:22Kermit Roosevelt:She reminds herself that her son Kermit is on board as well and will be accompanying his father on the expedition. A family member will be there to provide help to Teddy if he needs it. But Edith can't help but question if Kermit can handle what this river might have in store for him. Kermit is 24 now, but sometimes Edith wonders if he knows the difference between fearlessness and foolishness. Four years ago, Kermit accompanied his father on an African hunting expedition. Teddy wrote Edith with tales of Kermit running off into the bush to hunt lions without a thought for his own safety, sometimes vanishing for days at a time.

23:06Kermit Roosevelt:Brash, just like his father, she thinks. Edith hears footsteps. Mother, there you are. She turns to see Kermit rushing toward her with a letter in his hand. His face beaming. I have wonderful news. Belle said yes. She wants to be my wife. Oh, Kermit, I'm so thrilled for you. Belle Willard is a pretty blonde society girl from a prominent New York family. Kermit first met her at a party in the Roosevelt family home over a year ago. Immediately, they struck up a flirtatious correspondence, sending letters across the ocean while Kermit has been in South America. In one of those recent letters, he proposed to her.

23:52Kermit Roosevelt:Now, just like that, Kermit is engaged. Edith is surprised to see his face darken. What's the matter, Kermit? Mother, I don't know what to do. If I accompany father on this new expedition, I won't see Belle for months. And she wants to start planning the wedding as soon as possible. Edith levels her gaze at her son. Kermit, your father needs you more than you know. She's seen the look in the old man's eye. He's worried he may be reaching the end of his usefulness. And somewhere inside that noble, grain head of his, he may be wondering if it would be better to go out in a blaze of glory instead of fading away.

24:38Kermit Roosevelt:Look after him, Kermit. If you don't, he might not make it out alive. Do you understand? Kermit nods. Edith hopes her son will keep his father from making any foolish decisions,

24:51Candido Rondon:though she wonders if this expedition is the most foolish idea of all.

25:01Candido Rondon:A worker scratches his chin as another crate is lowered off a boat and onto the muddy riverbank. The worker's name is Paishon, and he can't believe what he's seeing. How could so much gear have fit in this one boat?

25:15Kermit Roosevelt:It's mid-January 1914 into Pirapan, a tiny town in the Brazilian highlands. Set between the banks of the Paraguay River and a low scrub forest, it's made up of small mud-walled huts, a town square, the headquarters to the Telegraphic Commission, and little else. Paixão is a camarada.

25:38Candido Rondon:It's a Portuguese word that means comrade. It's also the term given to Brazil's poor laborers. He's one of the 16 camaradas that Colonel Candido Rondon has hired to serve as porters on this expedition to the River of Doubt. Paixão has worked with Rondon many times in the past on his telegraph line expeditions, but he can't recall an assignment quite as ambitious as this one.

26:03Kermit Roosevelt:From what he's been told, the expedition will trek roughly 400 miles across the highlands to get to the headwaters of the river. Once on the river, the distance would be anybody's guess. Could be a thousand miles, maybe more, maybe less. It all depends on the path the river takes.

26:21Candido Rondon:Colonel Rondon believed that the waterway would eventually empty into a known river, called the Aripuana. If all goes according to plan, the expedition should arrive at the location two to three months from now. But already, Paishon can tell that things aren't going according to plan. They've arranged for 110 mules and 70-pack oxen to carry their supplies. But as Paishon looks at the giant stack of crates growing on the riverbank, he can tell they're going to need more animals. A lot more. He's heard that there's an esteemed guest aboard a smaller boat that's docked farther down the river. A former president of the United States.

27:05Candido Rondon:Maybe this is the way presidents are accustomed to traveling, but Paishon struggles to make sense of it.

27:12Kermit Roosevelt:Paishon spies Rondon across the square and rushes up to him. Colonel, look at all these crates. They brought everything but a piano. Rondon, as usual, is unflappable. I have already ordered the men to round up more mules and oxen to carry the load, but those won't be trained like the rest, and how long will it take to find them?

27:34Candido Rondon:Paishon turns to see a man with glasses and a thick mustache approaching them.

27:39Kermit Roosevelt:Colonel Rondon, tell me, is everything ship-shape and ready? I'm afraid we have some issues to resolve, President Roosevelt.

27:49Candido Rondon:Pichon watches as Rondon and Roosevelt walk away to continue their discussion. There's no way the expedition is departing on schedule. And judging from Roosevelt's expression, Pichon can tell he isn't happy about it.

28:08Kermit Roosevelt:Roosevelt raises his hands over his head and motions to the men around to quiet down. Gentlemen, please. If we put our heads together, surely we can get things back on track. In the dusty town square of the tiny village of Tapirapone, Roosevelt has called a meeting of the expedition's leaders. His son Kermit, Colonel Rondon, Father Zahm, and Anthony Fiala, the quartermaster hired by Zahm to procure supplies for the trip. When he arrived in the village yesterday, Roosevelt was expecting to find the supplies organized and the mules and oxen ready to depart. Instead, everything was in disarray. In the latest count, there were 360 large crates and countless other smaller boxes ready to be loaded.

28:56Kermit Roosevelt:There simply aren't enough animals to transport all of their supply crates. And even with more animals coming, it appears they will have to cut their load. Colonel Rondon raises his hand to speak. If I may, Mr. President, perhaps if we understood why there are so many crates, we could determine the best path forward. The quartermaster, Fiala, turns to Roosevelt. Sir, beyond our basic rations, it's critical that we pack food that's fit for president. Fiala explains that he packed with the intention that Roosevelt should never have the same meal two nights in a row. Indeed, Fiala has provided enough rations for a near-gourmet menu seven days a week.

29:40Kermit Roosevelt:Roosevelt arches his eyebrow. This doesn't sound like preparations for a deep jungle trek. Father Zahn places a hand on his shoulder. It's only fitting we travel in style, wouldn't you say, Mr. President? Roosevelt is speechless, but he realizes they're in a bind. They simply don't know how long they'll be out in the wilderness,

30:01Candido Rondon:and leaving anything behind, especially food, could come back to haunt them. So Roosevelt and Rondon craft a new plan. They will wait for the additional mules and oxen, and they'll divide the expedition in two. The first group will include about 70 oxen and will carry the bulk of their cargo,

30:21Kermit Roosevelt:food, tools, and other necessities. The leaders of the expedition will follow in the second group and carry minimal supplies. Both parties will travel north across the highlands roughly 150 miles following the telegraph lines run by Rondon and his men several years earlier. Their destination is a telegraph outpost called Utiriti, where they will meet up and sort their supplies before heading another 250 miles west to the river. Roosevelt is pleased to have a plan in place, but there's still one more task he needs done. Gentlemen, even with more mules and oxen, we'll need to cut our load. Fiala raises his hand.

31:03Kermit Roosevelt:As quartermaster, I'll take charge of that. After all, I'm the only man who truly knows what's inside every crate. Roosevelt nods. He has no option but to put his faith in Fiala. He only hopes that faith isn't misplaced.

31:25Kermit Roosevelt:Kermit Roosevelt grips the reins of the mule and urges it forward. A cool, dry wind blows across a stark, arid terrain, dotted occasionally by scrub bushes and trees. It's late January, and Kermit has been riding with his father and the rest of his expedition party for days now. There's still a long way to go, hundreds of miles until they reach the headwaters of the River of Doubt. After cutting their supplies down at Tapirapone, the whole party has been on reduced rations. Hunger gnaws at Kermit's belly. More than anything, Kermit feels heartache. He yearns to be reunited with his fiancée, Belle.

32:09Kermit Roosevelt:He wants to hold her in his arms, stare into her eyes and kiss her. It took three days before the expedition was finally ready to leave Tapirapone, and every minute of delay was torture to him. Kermit lets out a sigh as he looks towards the riders in front of him. Father Zahm, Colonel Rondon, the Quartermaster Fiala, two naturalists, a doctor, several camaradas, and of course, his father. He wonders if his dad is as tired and sore as he is. If so, he surely isn't letting on. Suddenly, the riders slow. Something's been spotted beside the trail. Kermit rides forward to get a closer look. His father and the other riders have gathered the mules around two large crates laying on the dry ground.

33:03Kermit Roosevelt:Kermit reads the words stenciled on them. Roosevelt South American Expedition? I don't understand. Kermit's father is incredulous. What in the blazes has happened here? The men figure that the crates must have been bucked off one of the oxen from the party that's riding ahead of them. Perhaps no one noticed. Or maybe they couldn't be bothered to retrieve them. Many of the untrained oxen have been bucking against their loads, not used to carrying such heavy cargo. Worse than that, Kermit and his party had passed exhausted and starving animals lying down on the trail, weakened from days of walking without enough to eat.

33:45Kermit Roosevelt:The men had expected there to be more natural grass for the pack animals to feed on.

33:51Candido Rondon:But the harsh environment has been short on grains. Every night, they've set the animals free to wander, in hopes they can scavenge enough food to keep going. It hasn't been enough.

34:04Kermit Roosevelt:Kermit climbs down from his mule and takes a closer look at the crate. The cold reality is they can't afford to leave it behind, but they can't carry it either. He looks up to his father. I don't think this will fit on any of the mules. We'd need an ox. Teddy purses his lips. Unfortunately, we don't have one to spare. Nothing to do but move on. Kermit nods reluctantly. As usual, his father is right. Kermit climbs back on his mule and urges the animal onward, wondering what else they'll have to leave behind before the journey is over.

34:55The End

35:13Kermit Roosevelt:the other pack animals. All of them look weak and underfed. Rondon clenches his jaw as he exhales. If he doesn't figure out a way to lighten their load, these animals will never make it to the River of Doubt. After over a week of riding, the expedition has finally reached the tiny village of Utiariti. Surrounded by thick forest, the village is divided into two sections. On one side is a small telegraph station constructed by Rondon and his team several years before. On the other is a cluster of huts with palm-thatched roofs. The huts are occupied by members of an indigenous tribe called the Parisi, who Rondon enlisted years ago to operate and protect the station.

36:01Kermit Roosevelt:For the next couple of days, the expedition party will rest and regroup here before heading 250 miles west to the headwaters of the river. Prior to that departure, Rondon knows he must figure out a way to streamline the supplies being carted by these poor animals. He spots a large rolling cart carrying a stack of canoes, each about 19 feet long and covered in canvas. From his telegraph work, Rondon recalls that another indigenous tribe resides near the headwaters of the River of Doubt. The expedition could purchase new canoes from this tribe when they arrive at the river, and leave this cumbersome cart in Utiriti.

36:43Kermit Roosevelt:The new canoes would be dugouts, carved from the trunks of trees. They'll be heavier than the canvas canoes they'd be leaving behind, but surely the expedition could make them work. Rondon feels a tap on his shoulder. Colonel Rondon, may I have a word? Rondon turns to find one of his camaradas standing before him. His expression is grim. The Camerata relays a story that Rondon simply cannot believe. Father Zom has made a unique request for the journey forward. The priest is asking for four of the Parisi tribal members to carry him on their shoulders while he sits in a comfortable chair. Rondon is appalled.

37:26Kermit Roosevelt:This isn't the first time on the journey that Zom has expressed his feelings of superiority and entitlement. And this is the last straw. Rondon storms across the grounds to find Roosevelt in his tent. Mr. President, Father Zom has gone too far. It's far beneath the dignity of the Parisi people to be treated as human mules. Roosevelt nods. Rondon knows Roosevelt has been friends with Father Zom for years. But even Roosevelt can't deny the priest is out of line. Roosevelt and Rondon step outside as Roosevelt calls Zom over. Rondon stares daggers as Roosevelt asks the old priest to explain himself.

38:08Kermit Roosevelt:Father Zahm does not back down from his request. Mr. President, it's quite simple. Carrying priests is what Indians are meant to do. Rondon bottles his anger as Father Zahm explains that he's been carried by Indians in other nations many times before. To the Indians in Peru, carrying a Catholic priest was considered an honor. Rondon sees a stern expression fall over Roosevelt as he locks eyes with the priest. Father Zom, come into my tent, please. When the two men emerge a few moments later, Rondon sees Zom walk swiftly to his tent. Roosevelt approaches Rondon. Father Zom is on his way home. Rondon is relieved.

38:53Kermit Roosevelt:The load for the next leg of the journey just got a little bit lighter.

39:03Kermit Roosevelt:Kermit lies on the cot inside his tent as sweat pours down his face. It's been two days since the expedition arrived in Uttariti, and like many others in the party, Kermit has come down with malaria. He turns to see his father stepping out of the rain into his tent. How are you feeling, son? I'll be fine. Should be ready to pack the equipment soon. His father looks unconvinced, and for good reason. The reality is that his symptoms are getting worse. Every muscle aches, and his body burns with fever. Everyone, even his father, has been telling Kermit to stay in bed, but he doesn't want to. The camp has to break down soon.

39:50Kermit Roosevelt:Father Zahm, the quartermaster, Fiala, and several others in the party are not continuing on. The expedition is shrinking in size, which should make it easier to transport their supplies. But that means it's more important than ever that everyone does their share of the work, including Kermit. Kermit was raised never to back down from a challenge, to never let fear or adversity or even malaria get in the way. As a child, his father took the children on scrambles, long walks across the grounds where the only rule was that any obstacle the kids encountered had to be tackled head-on, never walked around.

40:31Kermit Roosevelt:If you came to a pond, you swam it.

40:34Candido Rondon:If you ran into a haystack, you burrowed through. Now, here in Brazil, Kermit lies in his cot, listening to the rainfall on the canvas above him, stealing himself to soldier forward again.

40:49Kermit Roosevelt:Kermit slowly turns his body to sit up. His father steps forward. You need to rest, son. Doctor's orders. I feel well enough to start packing, father. Don't worry about me. His father sighs and gives a quick nod before he exits into the downpour. Kermit feels his muscles burn as he kneels to sort through his possessions and lighten his load. He discards unnecessary clothing, a few books. And then he comes to his packet of letters from Belle, the ones he's kept safe and dry all this time. They remind him of her golden hair and angelic smile. He closes his eyes and tries to imagine he's back home sitting beside her, holding her hand.

41:34Kermit Roosevelt:He smiles. Kermit tucks the letters into a leather pouch and slips them back into his bag, where he knows they'll be safe. Then, disobeying his father's wishes, he stands up and walks into the rain to help the others.

41:57Kermit Roosevelt:Theodore Roosevelt gazes out from a wooden bridge into a dense jungle. Far below him, he sees a rushing river, and he can hear the roar of its churning waters, even from this high perch. After 36 days of traveling overland, they have finally arrived at the Rio de Duvida, the River of Doubt. It's been a hard road to get here, laden with exhaustion, disease, and hunger. The journey has cut not only their rations, but also the size of their crew. Now, the expedition consists of 16 camaradas and just six officers, including Colonel Rondon, their naturalist, the expedition doctor, Kermit, and Roosevelt himself.

42:43Kermit Roosevelt:As hard as it's been, Roosevelt can't help but feel pride as he stares down at the river. They finally made it. Now, the real journey begins. He walks back to camp and confers with the rest of the team. What's left to be done, gentlemen? Rondon answers first. I will go to the local Nambiquara village to purchase some new canoes. Excellent. But first, let's break open these crates and take inventory of our food. We need to be properly rationed for the journey ahead.

43:17Candido Rondon:Rondon believes that the River of Doubt flows north for hundreds of miles until it flows into the Aripuana. His best estimate is that it could take another two months to travel to that point. But even he doesn't know for sure. Up to this point, their quartermaster Fiala was the only one with full knowledge of their supplies.

43:36Kermit Roosevelt:Now, Fiala's gone. Roosevelt wants to know exactly how much food they have and how much they might have to hunt and fish for as they journey down the river. Roosevelt peers inside the first crate and immediately grows concerned. The crate is filled with mustard and spices. The second crate contains 24 cases of toilet paper. They open crate after crate. Some hold useful items like meat, rice, and beans. but others contain gear that's much less essential. Olive oil, spices, tobacco with a dozen smoking pipes, useless luxuries Fiala insisted on packing. An uncomfortable truth dawns on Roosevelt. Even if they make the journey in the shortest time possible,

44:27Candido Rondon:this won't be enough to feed everyone.

44:29Kermit Roosevelt:Even if they can augment their diet with hunting and fishing, they're going to struggle to keep everyone fed. Roosevelt calls the officers together. They agree they will cut their own rations in half to leave more food for the camaradas. Hopefully, it will make a meaningful difference in their fight to stave off hunger. The officers disperse, and Roosevelt walks down to the river's edge. He watches quietly as the dark water rushes by. It's powerful, primal, and until now, unseen by anyone born outside of this jungle. Once they set their boats into those uncharted waters and head down with the current, paddling back will become impossible.

45:14Kermit Roosevelt:If they run out of supplies, they must forage and hunt or starve. If they suffer illness, they'll be far from any hospital. If they get lost, it will be up to them to find a way home. Once they start down the river of doubt, there will be no turning back.

45:37Candido Rondon:Follow Against the Odds on Audible, or wherever you get your podcasts. Audible subscribers can binge new seasons of Against the Odds early and ad-free right now. Join Audible in the Audible app, or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts.

45:54Kermit Roosevelt:This is the first episode in our series, Uncharted, Teddy Roosevelt's Amazon Expedition. A quick note about our scenes. In most cases, we can't know exactly what was said, but everything is based on historical research. If you'd like to learn more about this event, we highly recommend the books The River of Doubt by Candace Millard and Through the Brazilian Wilderness from the diaries of Theodore Roosevelt.

46:19Candido Rondon:I'm your host, Cassie DePeckel. Eric Trueheart wrote this episode. Our editor is Steve Fennessy. Sound design is by Rob Schiliga. Audio engineer is Sergio Enriquez. Original theme music by Scott Velasquez and 2K for Fries on Sync. Produced by Matt Almos, Emily Frost, and Alita Rozanski. Our managing producers are Tanja Thigpen and Matt Gant. Our senior producer is Andy Herman. Executive producers are Jenny Lara Beckman, Stephanie Jens, and Marsha Louie for Wondery. Dolby Atmos Mix by All House Audio.

47:00Thank you.