Madre de Dios: Stranded in the Amazon | Delayed Honeymoon | 1

15:14Fitz FitzGerald:We're so lucky. I can't believe we all made it.

15:18Holly FitzGerald:She trembles against him.

15:19Fitz FitzGerald:What do we do now?

15:21Holly FitzGerald:Fitz doesn't have an answer. He just holds her close, standing there in the thick, humid air, wondering what comes next.

15:33Holly FitzGerald:Holly clings to Fitz, still shaken, still stunned. Then she hears something, a low rumble through the trees. Look! A man in a small wooden boat appears, waiting for them to climb aboard. No one knows what's happening, they just follow his lead. He ferries the passengers four at a time across the muddy river. When they reach the far bank, Holly expects to see someone waiting. Maybe an airline official? But there's no one. They clamber up the steep embankment and follow the others down a narrow trail into the jungle. At a bend in the path, they spot a man, hacking at vines with a machete. The others keep walking, but Holly and Fitz stop.

16:21Holly FitzGerald:Hola! The man grins, half his teeth missing, and asks them, in Spanish, if they'd like to put their bags in his wheelbarrow. Relieved, they drop them in. What a nice man. Maybe he came to help when he saw the crash. Yeah, maybe. The man grips the handles and sets off fast down the trail. They hurry to keep up. Fitz calls out.

16:45Fitz FitzGerald:Señor, what's the name of this place? Sepa, sepa.

16:49Holly FitzGerald:The man talks some more, but Holly can't understand him. Finally, he stops and drops the wheelbarrow. He spreads his legs apart, shoots one arm forward, and pulls the other back. Then, thrusts it forward. Holly laughs. He's miming a bow and arrow. The man speaks rapidly, repeating two words.

17:13Fitz FitzGerald:Siete flechas. Siete flechas.

17:15Holly FitzGerald:Fitz fumbles for their pocket dictionary, flipping through the pages. His face drains of color.

17:21Fitz FitzGerald:I think he's saying he tied his sister to a tree and killed her with seven arrows.

17:28Holly FitzGerald:You're kidding. Let me see that. Before she can, the man starts moving again. They keep following until the jungle opens into a massive rectangular field lined with gray buildings. The man points ahead.

17:43Fitz FitzGerald:Sapa!

17:44Holly FitzGerald:Holly looks around. Something's off. It doesn't look like the other villages they've seen. No bright colors, no signs of life. Across the fields, the other passengers are milling about. Fitz points to a sign cemented into the ground. Look, what does it say? Holly squints, reading carefully. Welcome to SEPA, National Penal Colony of Peru. She reads it again. Her stomach drops. They hadn't landed near a town at all. The plane crash-landed on the airstrip of a federal prison. Fitz reaches for coins to thank the man, but a guard appears, shouting,

18:26Fitz FitzGerald:Don't give him money!

18:27Holly FitzGerald:He's a prisoner! The man pockets the coins anyway and bolts back down the trail. Fitz and Holly exchange a stunned look. It hits them. The man's story, his mimed bow and arrow, he really had killed his sister. The guard gestures at their bags.

18:46Fitz FitzGerald:Vamanos, take your things. Follow me.

18:49Holly FitzGerald:While he leads them across the field, Polly sidles up to him.

18:53Fitz FitzGerald:Why was that prisoner walking around like a free man?

18:56Holly FitzGerald:The guard shrugs.

18:58Fitz FitzGerald:The jungle is a prison. No need for walls. No one can escape.

19:03Holly FitzGerald:Fitz stops, aghast.

19:06Fitz FitzGerald:But he had a machete. The prisoners work. They need machetes to hold back the jungle.

19:11Holly FitzGerald:Then, almost casually, the guard adds, There are no roads out. The airfield's too wet for another plane to land, and no one knows when it'll be dry enough. Holly and Fitz lock eyes again, as the reality sinks in. They're prisoners now, too.

19:45Holly FitzGerald:The End

20:04She didn't get much sleep.

20:07Holly FitzGerald:Fitz drifted off easily, but she stayed awake, nervous, listening to a jaguar prowling outside the barracks. She's grateful for the thick concrete walls keeping it out, and the prisoners, too. Last night, they learned Cepa is home to Peru's most dangerous criminals. Murderers, rapists, armed robbers. Hopefully they won't be here long. Her thoughts move on to a more immediate problem. Fitz, you want to go on an outhouse date with me? Thought you'd never ask. At the doorway, a guard hands them a long wooden stick.

20:47Fitz FitzGerald:Here, take this. Bang it on the ground while you walk. Skrull. the snakes.

20:53Holly FitzGerald:They make their way down a muddy path. Prisoners in ragged clothes hack back the jungle with machetes. Some pause to watch them, curious. A few leer. Holly smells the outhouse before she sees it. Fitz stands guard outside while she goes in. Inside, there's just a hole cut into a wooden box for a seat. The stench is overwhelming. She gags, trying to hurry, as sweat drips down her face. She stumbles out, gulping in the fresh air. Ugh, I'm going in the bushes from now on.

21:31Fitz FitzGerald:It can't be that bad.

21:33Holly FitzGerald:While Fitz takes his turn, Holly watches the prisoners at work, swinging their machetes. She can't help thinking about the difference between their lives. She and Fitz both grew up comfortably with loving families. Her father's an architect. Her mom's a sculptor. She and Fitz have degrees and passports. Until this trip, she never really understood how fortunate she was, how she'd taken so much for granted. Homesickness creeps in. She starts to regret the letter she wrote to her parents, the one assuring them not to worry if they didn't hear from her for a while. At breakfast, tempers are rising.

22:15Holly FitzGerald:Some of their fellow passengers are getting desperate. They have jobs and families to return to. The woman, still wearing her mud-stained polka dot dress and pearls, is fuming. My husband will have your heads if you don't get me home soon. She rattles off his high-status credentials, but the guards only shrug.

22:35Fitz FitzGerald:The weather is not in our hands.

22:38Holly FitzGerald:Holly and Fitz exchange a worried look. They feel it too, that creeping sense of panic. Their boat leaves from Puerto Maldonado in just three days. If another plane doesn't come soon, they'll miss it.

22:56Holly FitzGerald:Fitz trudges down the narrow jungle path with his backpack on and typewriter under his arm. It's February 10th, their fourth day in Sapapino Colony. Four days of eating rice with bits of canned tuna. Four days of living among thieves and killers. Four days of waiting. The rain has finally stopped, and word is, a plane might be coming today. He tries not to get his hopes up as he and Holly join the other passengers, slogging back toward the airstrip. They've heard that before. Yesterday, when the sun came out, they were told to pack their bags and get ready to depart. Everyone cheered. They thanked the guards and hauled their luggage down the trail and across the river to the airfield.

23:45Holly FitzGerald:They waited three hours in the blazing heat before they were finally told that no plane would be coming. It still wasn't dry enough, the guards said. As they reached the field again, Fitz's eyes fall on the carcass of their old plane, still twisted in the grass like a mangled spider, a grim reminder of their close call. Then they hear it, a plane circling overhead. Everyone looks up and waits in silence. When the wheels finally slam onto the ground, the crowd erupts in applause. But as the plane taxis closer, the excitement fades. It's identical to the one that crashed, with the same olive green paint and the same rattling propellers.

24:32Holly FitzGerald:They climb aboard and take their seats on the same metal benches. Fitz and Holly sit side by side, with their hands locked tight. For the next two hours, the cabin is silent, except for the drone of the engines and the sound of whispered prayers. Fitz and Holly keep their hands clasped, and their eyes shut the entire flight. Neither of them dares to look out the window. The wheels hit hard, but this time they stay upright The plane shutters to a stop and Fitz exhales They've made it to Puerto Maldonado After four days as prisoners, they're finally free Holly walks with purpose through the unpaved streets of Puerto Maldonado Wood shacks line the road Chickens wander in and out of doorways She and Fitz are on a mission, to secure tickets for the riverboat to River Alta.

25:33Holly FitzGerald:They already said goodbye to the other passengers and dropped off their bags in a cheap room above a tavern. It's rustic, but private, with a toilet that flushes. After three nights in the prison barracks, it feels like luxury. From the top of a hill, they can see the Rio Madre de Dios shimmering in the distance. It's the majestic river they've been chasing ever since this whole journey began, the gateway to the Amazon. They enter a small office by the port, where a man in a crisp khaki shirt looks up from his desk. He's the harbormaster. Holly approaches him. Two tickets for the boat to River Alta, please.

26:14Holly FitzGerald:Mañana. The officer seems puzzled, not at Holly's broken Spanish, but at the request itself. He leans back in his chair and folds his hands.

26:25Fitz FitzGerald:There are no passenger boats to Bolivia.

26:29Holly FitzGerald:Holly stares, not sure if she's understood. No, our guidebook says there's a boat every three months. We planned our trip around it. She flips open the handbook and shows him the printed departure dates and times. The officer glances at it, then shakes his head.

26:45Fitz FitzGerald:It's a mistake. There are no schedules, just one man who sometimes travels that way to visit his family. But he already left two weeks ago.

26:55Holly FitzGerald:Holly feels the blood drain from her face. All that planning, all that waiting. Fitz looks pale too.

27:04Fitz FitzGerald:What about flights to Bolivia?

27:06Holly FitzGerald:The officer shakes his head again.

27:09Fitz FitzGerald:There's not much traffic between Peru and Bolivia. The only flight goes back to Pucallpa, where you came from, and only once a month.

27:17Holly FitzGerald:Holly feels her stomach drop. In all their months on the road, all the hiccups and close calls, she's never felt this defeated. Her dream of reaching the Amazon has all but slipped away. They decide to get something to eat and think about what to do next. At a crowded cafe near the square, they slump into wooden chairs and drown their sorrows in plates of steak, boiled potatoes, fried tomatoes, and bananas. What do we do now, Fitz? If we wait for someone to take us downriver, we could be here for months. Maybe we turn around. Go back the way we came? Holly shakes her head. We'd have to wait three weeks just to get a flight to Pucallpa.

28:01Holly FitzGerald:I think we can forget about Carnival. Holly drops her head in her hands. Here they are, stuck again. No roads, no boats, no way forward. Then, out of nowhere, they hear a voice in clear English. Excuse me, please. They both look up. At the next table, a debonair man in a spotless white suit gets up from his seat. He looks to be in his 50s, with salt and pepper hair. He introduces himself as Juan Nebenschwander. a gold prospector from the area who once worked in Chicago. I couldn't help overhearing your problem. Have you thought about maybe building a raft, going down the river on it? Holly lights up.

28:45Holly FitzGerald:Her first thought isn't fear, it's wonder. The river, freedom, adventure. But Fitz is frowning.

28:55Fitz FitzGerald:Build a raft? We don't know the first thing about that. Is it even safe?

29:00Holly FitzGerald:Juan just smiles.

29:02Fitz FitzGerald:There's nothing to it.

29:03Holly FitzGerald:I came here myself on a raft from upriver. He pulls up a chair, lights his pipe, and explains that in this part of Peru, rafts are more common than boats. It's the true way of traveling the river. Fitz shakes his head.

29:19Fitz FitzGerald:They don't look very sturdy.

29:21Holly FitzGerald:Then make a bigger one. Build it to fit your needs. You could even make it comfortable with a platform, a tent, and a little stove. Your own floating home. Holly can see the doubt on Fitz's face. But to her, it sounds incredible. She pictures them drifting down the river, like something out of Huckleberry Finn. It could be fun. Fitz doesn't look convinced. But Holly leans in, pressing Juan for more details. How long would it take to reach Riberalta? Juan slowly exhales a puff of smoke. It's about 500 miles, no more than 10 days. Only five if you travel night and day. How will we know when we've reached Riberalta?

30:02Holly FitzGerald:Don't all the towns look similar? There are no other towns along the way. Just the border crossing. It's jungle all the way there. But we don't know the way. What if we take some offshoot of the river by mistake and get lost? You won't. Just follow the main channel until you want to pull in. There are no tributaries flowing away from the river. Any detour will always bring you back. Fitz, who's been quiet, finally speaks. If we were to do it, how would we even build a raft? Juan says the best way is to find an old, broken-down raft and fix it up. He offers to show them where to look tomorrow morning.

30:39Holly FitzGerald:Then he stands, brushing the wrinkles from his white suit. You can do it. I know you can. They thank him, still dazed by the idea. After he leaves, Fitz just stares into his coffee, lost in thought. But Holly can't stop smiling. Not only is it a way out, it feels like destiny. the adventure she's been waiting for.

31:06Holly FitzGerald:Fitz can sense Holly's excitement bubbling over as they leave the cafe and step into the thick evening heat. Well, what do you think, Fitz? I think he's crazy. But what else can we do? Wait here for who knows how long? This could be a real adventure. Juan said nothing can go wrong. Holly, we just met the guy. We don't even know him. He says people do it all the time. Stop being so cautious. It'll be just the two of us in the wide open river. We'll be like Huck and Jim. Fitz slows his step, staring down the empty street. Holly skips along, animated, talking about tents and stoves and freedom. He can't help but smile.

31:51Holly FitzGerald:It's true. He's always been more cautious than she is, and more skeptical. Before Vietnam, he'd lived in New York City, a place that teaches you not to be too trusting. But her enthusiasm is infectious. Come on, Fitz, I know you want to do it. He shakes his head, but he knows she's right. There's a part of him that does want to be like Huck Finn.

32:17Fitz FitzGerald:All right, we'll do it. Yes, I knew it!

32:22Holly FitzGerald:By the time they get back to their room, Holly's already talking about getting supplies. A hammer and nails. Rolls of plastic. Fitz just listens, smiling at the joy in her voice. He doesn't tell her that, deep down, he still has doubts. That maybe this new plan is too good to be true. But he tells himself they'll be careful. They'll build something sturdy. They'll make it to Bolivia. After all, how dangerous could a river really be?

33:06Holly FitzGerald:The next day, Holly is still flying high as she trails Juan Nibenschwander through the dusty streets of Maldonado. The morning air is already thick and humid, but she's bursting with energy. She and Fitz are on a mission. Juan points them down a narrow path that winds along the riverbank.

33:27Fitz FitzGerald:Ask the farmers. Someone will probably have an old raft to give you.

33:31Holly FitzGerald:They follow the path through a grove of banana trees until it opens onto a small cornfield where a man is chopping wood outside a small shack. He looks up, wipes sweat from his forehead, and grins. He introduces himself, Ernesto, and his wife, Guillermina. Neither speaks English, but they're friendly and seem amused as Holly pantomimes with her arms, pretending to paddle a raft. ¿Necesitamos una balsa? Ernesto chuckles and nods, then gestures for them to follow. They weave through trees until the jungle opens to the water. And there it is, a raft, resting on the shore. But it's far too big for just the two of them.

34:16Holly FitzGerald:It's about 16 feet long and 14 feet wide, made of huge, thick balsa logs held together by smaller cross pieces. Before they can politely refuse, Ernesto draws his machete and strides toward it. He starts hacking through the cross pieces, stripping away the outer logs to make the raft narrower. In minutes, he's left them with the four sturdiest-looking balsa logs. Holly watches in awe. When they offer him money, Ernesto waves them off with a smile. Holly is touched. The kindness of strangers almost makes her want to stay here. Almost. With Ernesto's help, they haul the stripped-down raft to the edge of the river.

34:59Holly FitzGerald:He crouches beside the logs, pointing and explaining each step for how to fix it up. Fitz rolls up his sleeves, and they secure the logs with thick strips of vine, pulling each one tight. Nearby, Holly sketches the design in her journal, noting every detail. It feels good to be building something, with purpose. For the first time in weeks, they aren't just waiting. They're creating their way forward.

35:30Holly FitzGerald:Fitz wipes the sweat from his forehead and drives another nail into place, hammering the last board onto the tent platform. The air is humid and sticky, and he's exhausted. But after four long days of labor, their floating home is almost finished. Holly is gathering kindling for their makeshift cooking stove with the help of local children. Words spread through town about Los Gringos building a raft to ride down the Madre de Dios. Each day, curious locals have gathered at the riverbank, some silently watching, others calling out advice. Ernesto shows up every day after his own workday ends. He taught them how to turn a used five-gallon oil can into a stove, nailing it down securely on the raft, and covering the opening with chicken wire to use as a grill.

36:21Holly FitzGerald:He also helped them whittle a paddle, a pole to push off with, and a rudder from scrap pieces of wood. Fitz stands up and takes a long look at their creation. The raft is roughly eight feet wide and 16 feet long, barely bigger than their Toyota back home in the garage. They've stocked up on provisions. Oranges, bread, canned sausages, and sardines. Rice, beans, spam, cheese. They bought mosquito netting, a flashlight, a 15-foot rope, fishing line, and two 4-inch hooks. Way bigger than they need. But it was all the store had in stock. At Juan's insistence, they bought a machete to cut vines along the river.

37:05Holly FitzGerald:But Fitz refused his suggestion to buy a rifle. He hates guns. After Vietnam, he never wants to hold one again. Besides, Juan assured them the local indigenous people are friendly, and as long as they stay close to the river, they won't encounter any dangerous animals. By the afternoon, only one more task remains. Juan appears at the dock to help them stretch sheets of pink plastic over poles cut from nearby trees. The material is thinner than a tarp, but stronger than a trash bag. They pull it taut and staple it in place until it forms a small, colorful shelter. When they step back, Fitz can hardly believe it.

37:48Holly FitzGerald:The raft looks real, sturdy, functional. Juan tells them he's setting off at first light on a gold expedition, so he won't be there for their grand launch. I'm sorry I won't be there to send you off. Fitz shakes his hand. Thanks for your help.

38:04Fitz FitzGerald:We won't forget you.

38:06Holly FitzGerald:Juan flashes a confident smile.

38:08Fitz FitzGerald:You'll have the time of your life.

38:11Holly FitzGerald:Then Juan pauses, almost as an afterthought. One thing, don't ever swim in the river. Holly blinks. Why not? I saw children splashing in the harbor, and I thought caimans were only active at night. Juan shakes his head.

38:27Fitz FitzGerald:It's the candiru, a minuscule sawtooth fish, downriver. It can swim up your body, latch onto your intestines, and drink your blood until you die.

38:39Holly FitzGerald:Fitz and Holly stare at him, horrified. You're joking. Juan doesn't smile. He just gives a short nod, adjusts his hat, and walks away. Fitz exhales, shaking his head. They knew about piranhas, but those usually only attack if their prey's already bleeding. But this? He and Holly exchange a look of disbelief and a silent agreement. Whatever happens on this journey, they will definitely not be swimming in the river. It's Valentine's Day. Tonight, they will unroll their sleeping bags and spend their first night aboard, sleeping under the pink plastic roof. Tomorrow, they'll push off, two newlyweds on a homemade raft drifting into the unknown.

39:29Holly FitzGerald:It couldn't be more romantic.

39:34Holly wakes first, her eyes bright with excitement.

39:38Holly FitzGerald:She rolls over and smacks a kiss on Fitz's mouth. It's launch day. Are you ready for the time of your life? Fitz opens his eyes, half asleep but smiling.

39:50Fitz FitzGerald:Yes, yes I am.

39:52Holly FitzGerald:They boil river water treated with purification tablets and cook breakfast. Coffee, eggs, cheese, bread, and jam. They use the frying pan and saucepan from Holly's old trusty Girl Scout mess kit. By the time the sun rises over the tree line, a small crowd is gathered at the riverbank, smiling, waving, wishing them luck. Ernesto and Guillermina are there too, standing arm in arm like proud parents sending their kids off to college. Holly waves back, trying to ignore the knot in her stomach. The truth is, she's having second thoughts. Are we crazy? Heading out alone into a jungle river we know nothing about?

40:38Holly FitzGerald:She glances down at the license they got from the harbormaster, an official-looking piece of paper, stamped and signed. It reassures her their raft is safe. We're legit, she tells herself. They wouldn't have given us a license if they didn't think we're good to go. The harbormaster said that Riberalta Port Authority would be on the lookout for them, and if necessary, a commercial plane from Lima could be radioed to pass over the area. Holly folds the license carefully and tucks it into her money belt, alongside her passport and traveler's checks. She feels ready. Then, just as they're about to cast off, Holly remembers.

41:18Holly FitzGerald:Wait, we need to christen the raft. They both turn toward the pink plastic tent, Shimmering in the sun, Fitz smiles. How about the Pink Palace?

41:29Fitz FitzGerald:That's perfect.

41:31Holly FitzGerald:He hands her a bottle of local beer.

41:34Fitz FitzGerald:Sorry, no champagne in the jungle.

41:36Holly FitzGerald:Holly winds her arm back and swings the bottle as hard as she can. To the Pink Palace! The bottle smacks the logs, but instead of breaking, it bounces off the raft and into the brown water. The villagers gasp, then fall silent as the bottle disappears. Holly slaps her hands to her face.

41:59Fitz FitzGerald:Oh no, it's bad luck.

42:01Holly FitzGerald:Fitz pulls her close.

42:02Fitz FitzGerald:It doesn't matter. It's just superstition.

42:05Holly FitzGerald:She forces herself to nod. She's never believed in that kind of stuff. Black cats, cracked mirrors, bad omens. Besides, there's no time to dwell. It's nearly noon, and they want to reach the Bolivian border before dark. On the map, it's about 40 miles as the crow flies, but with the river's twists and turns, who knows? With a final shove, the raft breaks free. Polly takes a photo of the villagers wading from shore.

42:36Fitz FitzGerald:Polly, the current is too strong. Help me.

42:38Holly FitzGerald:She tosses the camera back in the bag and grabs the paddle. They dig in hard, fighting the eddies that keep dragging them back to shore. Then suddenly, the river seizes them. The Madre de Dios takes hold. They're moving fast now. Maldonado starts to shrink behind them. The huts, the people waving, until it's all just a blur against the green. Polly laughs, her hair whipping in the breeze.

43:09Fitz FitzGerald:We did it!

43:10Holly FitzGerald:Fitz grins, leaning in to kiss her.

43:13Fitz FitzGerald:We sure did. There's no going back now.

43:17Holly FitzGerald:They stand with their arms around each other, watching the river widen with every bend. Under the blazing sun, Holly feels a shiver. The river is beautiful, but far more powerful than she ever imagined.

43:36Fitz FitzGerald:Follow Against the Odds on the Audible app or wherever you get your podcasts. You can listen to all episodes of Against the Odds ad-free by joining Audible.

43:48Holly FitzGerald:This is the first episode of our three-part series, Madre de Dios, Stranded in the Amazon. A quick note about our scenes. In most cases, we can't know exactly what was said, but everything is based on historical research. If you'd like to learn more about this story, we recommend the book Ruthless River, Love and Survival by Raft on the Amazon's Relentless Madre de Dios by Holly Fitzgerald. I'm your host, Cassie DePeckel. Rachel Matlow wrote this episode. Sound design by Rob Shiloga. Audio engineer is Sergio Enriquez. Original theme music, Scott Velasquez and 2K for Fries on Sync. Produced by Emily Frost.

44:27Holly FitzGerald:Managing producer is Desi Blalock. Senior producers are Andy Herman and Austin Rackless. Executive producers are Jenny Lara Beckman and Marsha Louis for Wondery.

44:45Thank you.