Siula Grande: Over the Edge | First Ascent | 1

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0:08Simon Yates:A listener note. Against the Odds uses dramatizations that are based on true events. Some elements, including dialogue, may be invented. But everything is based on research. This episode contains explicit language.

0:30Simon Yates:Joe Simpson feels his heart pound harder as he hikes deeper into a remote valley in the Peruvian Andes, a heady mix of exhilaration and thin air. Mountains rise all around him, raw and magnificent, under a brilliant blue sky. It's late May 1985. After a long, winding bus ride and two days trekking on foot, Joe and his climbing partner, Simon Yates, have finally made it to base camp, 15 ,000 feet above sea level. This is as far as the donkeys can carry their gear. Just five more miles up the valley lies the base of Ciula Grande, the majestic mountain they've come all this way to climb. Joe and Simon are joined by a new friend, a fellow Brit named Richard Hawking, who they met just a few days ago in Lima.

1:26Simon Yates:Richard's been backpacking through South America. He's not a climber, but he's funny and good company, so they invited him along to watch their gear while they're on the mountain. They unload their tents and equipment and start setting up camp. Joe takes a moment to glance around. A turquoise lake shimmers nearby, framed by towering snow-covered peaks. Wow, this is so much better than the Alps. Simon smiles, nodding in agreement. They're truly in the middle of nowhere. Exactly what Joe wanted. For him, the whole appeal of climbing is to disappear into places like this. Far from the real world.

2:09Simon Yates:No hordes of climbers. No helicopters. Just them, their equipment, and the mountains. It's risky going up as a two-man team. There's no backup if something goes wrong. But to Joe, the self-reliance aspect is the point. It's total freedom. Joe fell in love with climbing when he was 14, after reading The White Spider, a book about the first harrowing attempts to climb the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. At first, he couldn't understand why anyone would risk their life for a mountain. But then something shifted. These were smart, capable men. If they were willing to endure that kind of pain and fear, there had to be something really special about climbing that made it worth the danger.

2:59Simon Yates:Ten years later, he knows it's true. Joe is only 24, and Simon's just 21. But they've already scaled some of the biggest rock faces in the French Alps. They met just last year in Chamonix. They got on well, and tackled a few difficult routes together. but they both craved bigger, more unexplored challenges. And Ciola Grande is exactly that. It rises over 6 ,300 meters, just under 21 ,000 feet. Two Austrians first reached its summit in 1936 via the North Ridge, but no one has ever successfully climbed its daunting west face. Joe knows it's going to be extremely difficult, brutal even. Many have tried and failed, but that only makes him more determined.

3:52Simon Yates:We're better than them, he thinks. We're going to succeed.

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4:53Well, hop in, rabble-rouser. We're going hunting for a manifesto. Listen to Dan Taberski's manifesto wherever you get your podcasts.

5:06Simon Yates:From Wondery, I'm Cassie DePeckel, and this is Against the Odds.

5:19Simon Yates:Alpine-style climbing is considered by many to be the purest form of mountaineering. Just two climbers moving fast and light, roped together, fixing anchors as they go. But it's also far riskier. Climbing this way demands absolute trust in your partner, because the rope that connects you could save your life, or take you both down. In June 1985, two ambitious young British climbers, Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, set out to do an alpine-style ascent of Ciola Grande, a towering 21 ,000-foot peak in the Peruvian Andes. Their goal was to conquer the mountain's west face, an unclimbed, forbidding wall of rock, ice, and snow.

6:05Simon Yates:But during their descent, disaster struck. And in the desperate hours that followed, they would be forced to confront everything they thought they knew about ambition, friendship, and the true cost of survival. This is Episode 1, First Ascent.

6:29Simon Yates:Simon Yates moves at a steady pace, zigzagging up the steep, rocky slope above base camp. The morning is cold and clear. He and Joe are on a training climb to acclimatize on a nearby mountain called Rosario Norte. Each time he glances back, the tents below shrink smaller. Simon can feel his lungs working hard, but he and Joe are making good progress, adjusting to the altitude. So far, the weather has followed the same pattern every day. Clear mornings and clouds by mid-afternoon, followed by rain or snow on the higher slopes. But unlike in the Alps, the clouds here rarely explode into full-on storms, so they don't need to retreat the moment the sky darkens.

7:19Simon Yates:Joe hikes up alongside him, breathing hard in the thin air. How's it going? Simon glances over and grins. Good. I'm sure glad we're not smoking on this trip. Joe laughs, and they push on higher. And before long, the tents totally disappear from view. The isolation is a little unnerving, but mostly Simon finds it exhilarating. To him, mountains are the most beautiful places in the world. The risks are real, but out here, he feels truly alive. Even though Simon doesn't know Joe all that well, he believes they're well-matched. In a way, a climbing partnership is a marriage of convenience. You need similar temperaments and abilities.

8:09Simon Yates:Simon likes that Joe is ambitious and hungry, like him, for the kind of climbs no one else has pulled off. They continue working their way up a steep rock gully. Then Simon spots it, off to the left. Their first clear view of Ciola Grande. Joe, look! They both stop and stare out at the dramatic mountain range unfolding before them. A cluster of white peaks sparkling in the sunlight. And in the center, towering above them all, is Ciola Grande. It's bigger, wider, and more awe-inspiring than any photo Simon's ever seen. Joe points a little to the right. Is that the Northridge? Simon takes a moment to get his bearings.

9:00Simon Yates:They're looking at the mountain from a different angle than in the photos. Gradually, the familiar features start to fall into place. Yeah, it starts down there. Simon traces the north ridge with his finger, following it as it twists and climbs higher toward the summit. It looks relatively straightforward, but then his gaze drifts lower to the more complex and confusing west face. It's a maze of gullies and ice fields. Hey, Simon, what elevation do you think we're at right now? Simon glances around, trying to gauge their height. I'd say a little over 18 ,000 feet. Why? Joe grins. We're higher than we've ever climbed before.

9:46Simon Yates:Simon laughs. It's a cool milestone, but he knows the real challenge is still ahead. From here, they'll be heading even higher into uncharted territory. He looks out again at Ciola Grande, towering at 21 ,000 feet in the distance. If they're fit enough after 10 more days of training, they'll make it go for the summit.

10:18Simon Yates:Joe scrambles around a huge boulder as he picks his way through a massive rock field under the morning sun. Simon and Richard are close behind. And ahead, just around the bend, Ciola Grande is waiting. It's June 4th, 1985. After two weeks of training on nearby peaks, Joe and Simon feel fit, strong, and ready for what's ahead. For the past two days, they've done nothing but eat, sleep, and wait. Now, with a clear weather window, they're making their move. They're about an hour into the five-mile trek to the base of the mountain. Richard is coming along partway to send them off. They've already traveled up the rocky valley, around another lake, and now into this maze of rocks.

11:08Simon Yates:Joe and Simon have packed light. Just one backpack each and no tent. They plan to dig snow caves for shelter instead. They brought only the essentials. Steaks, ice screws, crampons, axes, a stove, food, and a few more basics. But even without a tent, Joe's pack still feels heavy. Finally, they make it out of the boulder field and reach the start of the glacier. Richard is wearing only sneakers, so this is the end of the road for him. How long will you guys be gone? Simon shrugs. Two days up, two days down. Five days max. Then he grins. If we're not back in a week, you'll be the proud owner of all our gear.

11:55Simon Yates:Richard laughs, a little uneasy, but plays along as he pulls out his camera. How about I take your picture? You know, for the obituary pages. They all laugh, a flicker of dark humor to break the tension. Joe and Simon stand together and smile awkwardly, with the glacier stretching out behind them. Richard snaps a photo, then waves as he turns back toward base camp. Take care. Simon calls after him. Don't worry, we'll be back soon. Joe and Simon strap on their crampons and step onto the glacier. The plan is simple. Once they reach the far side, they'll dig a snow cave at the foot of the mountain and settle in early.

12:42Simon Yates:Then tomorrow, at first light, they'll begin their climb up the west face. They rope up and start moving carefully across the ice. It's riddled with crevasses, deep open cracks. Some are hidden under a thin layer of snow, while others are wide enough to swallow them whole. On terrain like this, if one of them slips, the other has to react instantly by driving their axes and crampons into the ice to stop the fall. They pick their way through the treacherous maze step by step. And then, looming ahead, Joe finally sees it. The west face of Ciola Grande. This close, it's dazzling, magnificent, and utterly terrifying.

13:33Simon Yates:Even though he's committed to going up, a ripple of fear pulses through him. He turns to Simon. Jesus, it wouldn't take much to knock us right off that face. Simon just chuckles. A little fear's healthy. We can do it. Joe's still nervous, but he can't help but smile. He envies Simon's positive, carefree attitude. There's a glint of madness in him, like most climbers. But he's dependable, sincere, and always quick to find the humor in things. Joe feels lucky to be climbing with him. As they move on, Joe repeats the words in his head, like a mantra. We can do it. We can do it.

14:25Simon Yates:Simon drives his right axe firmly into the ice and looks up at the soaring west face of Ciola Grande. From this angle, it's far steeper than it looked when they scouted it from Rosario Norte. But so far, everything's going right. The weather is perfect. Clear skies, bright sun, no wind. Simon feels a rush of excitement. This is it. We're really going for it. At 5 a.m., they left their snow cave at the base and began climbing. Now, hours later, they're inching steadily up a sheer wall of ice, swinging their axes and kicking in their crampons as they go. It's early afternoon, and they've already gained 2 ,000 feet.

15:16Simon Yates:Simon glances down at Joe. He's 150 feet below. clipped in at the other end of the rope. They've been taking turns leading the way, hammering in ice screws and setting anchors ahead, while the other feeds out rope from under. The idea is that if someone slips, they shouldn't fall past the last anchor.

15:45Simon Yates:Finally, Simon hauls himself over the edge of the ice wall, More than halfway up the face, with Joe close behind. They stop on the narrow ledge to catch their breath. Simon grins at Joe. Pretty steep, eh? Joe smiles, shaking his head. That's an understatement. From here, they get a clearer view of what's ahead. And it's even more daunting. High above, massive cornices overhang the west face. Huge shelves of snow and ice that looked like they could break off at any moment. Beneath the cornices, a wide gully slices across the headwall. That's their target for today. But it still looks a long way off.

16:31Simon Yates:They have only a few hours of daylight left to reach it. They pack up and set off again, this time with Joe leading the way. As they climb higher, the ice becomes harder and more brittle. Simon keeps getting peppered with shards breaking loose from Joe's axis. Oh, for crying out loud! Joe adjusts his line, moving diagonally to avoid sending debris straight down. He must have heard Simon's yelps. But now, ice and rock are breaking loose on their own, clattering down from the head wall and whizzing past Simon's head. The mountain has come alive. Simon curses under his breath then hears Joe shout from above Rocks!

17:19Simon Yates:He glances up just in time to see a boulder tearing loose above It rips past Joe and hurtles straight toward him Simon throws himself sideways and crouches low Tiny stones rattle off his helmet and gear The boulder slams into the slope with a thunderous crack and bounces past him, missing him by inches. His heart pounds in his chest. You okay, Simon? Yeah, but that was too close. The casual confidence of the morning is gone. Keep moving, Joe. I don't like it here. They know now, this day, this route, is going to be much longer and much harder than they thought.

18:10Simon Yates:Joe moves like a cross between a gymnast and a dancer as he climbs steadily up the wall, all power and grace. Simon is moving well above him. It's mid-afternoon on day two, and they're only 800 feet from the summit now. Joe's feeling confident again. No more doubts. He truly believes they're a match for this route. Yesterday had been a brutal 15-hour grind that left them exhausted and demoralized. They ended up climbing in the dark until 10 o 'clock when they finally stopped, dug a snow cave, and wolfed down dinner from a foil bag. Turkey Supreme. Today, they've gotten off to a strong start, and now they're finally nearing the top of a gully where the summit slopes begin.

18:57Simon Yates:From there, it should be the final stretch. Joe can barely contain his excitement. Simon is grinning too. They're so close to a first ascent. But as they reach a small ridge, marking the end of the gully and the start of the summit slopes, reality hits them hard. The route above is a maze of flutings, steep, narrow grooves filled with loose powder. They've heard stories about South American flutings, none of them good. Warnings about unstable snow, deceptive footing, and slopes just waiting to collapse. They stop on the ridge. Simon pulls out the gas stove and starts melting snow for water. They need to stay hydrated to keep their energy up.

19:48Simon Yates:The altitude is drying them out faster than they're used to. As they sip their hot drinks, they look up and search for a good line of ascent. Many of the flutings lead to dead ends. And once they commit to one, there's no way out. Vertical rock walls box them in on either side. They'll have to find a way through, or they'll be trapped. They pick the widest gully and push on. Immediately, they're floundering in knee-deep powder, moving slower than ever. This is the most precarious climbing Joe's ever done. The loose snow barely holds their weight. Every step sends small avalanches cascading down the slope.

20:32Simon Yates:He wonders, how is the snow even sticking to a mountain this steep? In the Alps, fresh powder wouldn't cling to a face like this. But here, it seems to defy gravity. Joe looks down at Simon. I can't believe this snow. I know, it's terrifying. They're now more exposed than they were before. And as the afternoon winds pick up, the temperature drops even more. But there's no changing course now. They're committed. It takes four grueling hours just to gain 300 feet. And by dark, they're chilled to the bone. Snow is now falling, and they can barely see where they're going. They both know pushing on in these conditions will be asking for disaster.

21:23Simon Yates:Joe yells down. I can't see us getting to the top today. No, not at this snail's pace. Joe sweeps his headlamp across the slope, searching for a place to take shelter. But the fluting is too narrow and shallow to stop here. They have no choice. They have to climb higher. Once again, they push on after dark, with snow swirling around them, until finally the gully widens enough for them to dig a snow cave. It's still precariously steep, but they secure themselves with ice screws in case the floor of the cave collapses. Once they're dug in, they eat their last freeze-dried meal and collapse into their sleeping bags, exhausted and freezing, curled into the fetal position with only their noses sticking out.

22:15Simon Yates:But the good news is, they're only 300 feet from the summit, and tomorrow, they'll be standing on it.

22:45its freaking mind with each passing hour. Manifestos are a call to action, an artful scream. They capture our anger and they try to do something with it. This is my attempt to take the manifesto back from mass shooters and nihilists and return it to its rightful place with the warriors, the visionaries, the regular folks with just the right amount of crazy. I compare notes with radicals, secessionists, internet trolls out for a laugh, and punk singers screaming their guts out, all trying to turn their anger into the world they want to see. Listen to Manifesto wherever you get your podcasts. Audible subscribers can binge all episodes of Manifesto early and ad-free right now.

23:23Join Audible in the Audible app or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts. Thirty years ago, an island off Manhattan almost brought down New York City. Who will you trust? Your friends and neighbors? Or will you trust the people five miles overseas? This is a story about neighbors turning on each other. And what happens when a forgotten place decides it's had enough? But we're not stopping, are we?

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24:05Simon Yates:Simon Yates picks his way through the snow gully in the morning sun. each step slow and deliberate in the fresh powder. The daylight is a welcome relief after the long, bitterly cold night they spent huddled in a snow hole above 20 ,000 feet. It's their third day on the mountain, and less than 300 feet stands between them and the summit. With the clear weather, they can now see the nightmare of snow flutings they were blindly trying to climb the night before. Simon glances down between his legs, and his stomach twists tighter. Nothing but a 4 ,500-foot drop. It's Simon's turn to feed out rope from below while Joe leads.

24:52Simon Yates:He can see the tension in Joe's body, the careful way he shifts his weight, plants his axe, and searches for solid footing. Simon's fine with going slow. They both know their anchors are anything but secure. and that any slip could rip them both off the mountain. On the most precarious sections, you can't count on anchors or skill. You just pray you don't fall. Simon feels the rope go still. He looks up. Joe has stopped. They've reached a fork in the slope. Joe calls down. Which way should I go? I can't see. Simon leans out carefully, craning his neck to get a better look over the edges of the flutings.

25:39Simon Yates:From his angle, he can make out just a little more. Don't go left! Simon can't see what lies to the right, but it has to be better than the sheer drop waiting on the left. Joe cautiously edges right at the fork and disappears from view. The rope stays still for a moment, then begins to slowly creep through Simon's hands. A few nerve-wracking minutes drag past. And finally, Simon exhales. The rope is moving steadily, and so is Joe. They made the right call. A little while later, Simon scrambles up to join Joe at the top of the gully. That's when, through the swirling clouds, they finally catch a glimpse of the summit.

26:26Simon Yates:An enormous overhanging cornice, glowing white against the pale sky, just a hundred feet above them. Woohoo! We're so close! They're now only one rope length away from the top. A final vertical stretch of hard-packed snow and ice stands between them and history. Simon takes the lead, kicking in firm steps. The steepness is unnerving, sickening. But soon, he's hauling himself onto the ridge, less than 50 feet from the top. He looks down at Joe and grins. Come on! We're almost there! Joe climbs onto the ridge, and together they drop their heavy packs and start the final scramble, moving light and fast for the first time in days.