386. The Picts: Scotland’s Tattooed Warriors (Ep 4)

12 Aug 2026 · 46 min · 22 chapters

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In short

The Picts—“painted people” first named by Romans (AD 297)—and what archaeology, genetics, and art history reveal about their society in northeast Scotland (roughly until ~900 AD), including kingship, symbol stones, trade, religion, and the end of Pictish power.

Guest backgrounds

Professor Gordon Noble, Archaeology (University of Aberdeen), Director of the Northern Picts Project; co-author of The King in the North and the Pictish Realms.

Key claims

Pictish succession may sometimes pass through the female line (Bede hints this under stress), but evidence is vague. Pictish society was far more complex and elite than once thought, with long-distance connections. Pictish symbols can be dated via archaeological contexts and may reflect a naming/logographic system. Christianity didn’t erase Pictish imagery; symbols and animal/monk motifs persist. Viking pressure likely contributed to Pictish decline; Pictish kingdoms vanish around 890–900.

Notable examples

Rhinie Man and the Rhinie royal complex (wine amphora imports; glass from Western France); Burghead promontory fort (7th–8th century; 8m-thick walls); Hilton of Cadboll slab (female aristocrat imagery); Golcross silver hoard (Roman silver reworked into Pictish-style objects); Loch Ness monster episode in Columba’s life; Portmahomack monastery evidence for book production and possible links to the Book of Kells; Swaino Stone battle imagery dated ~900; Danelaw-linked destruction/abandonment at Burghead.

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

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Who Were the Picts?

0:19 to 1:15

Discussing the origins and characteristics of the Picts as a society.

“For adults with Crohn's disease or ulcerative colitis symptoms, every choice matters.”

Who Were the Picts?

3:06 to 4:17

Discussing the origins and characteristics of the Picts as a society.

“We had a lovely trip together to Burghead last summer and I've been trying to get you on the show ever since.”

Matrilineal Succession Debate

4:19 to 5:38

Exploring the unique matrilineal succession of Pictish kingships.

“will remember the first thing you do in history is you colour in sort of a paint-by-colour Pictish person, you know, and there's sort of the winding tattoos on their bodies.”

The Venerable Bede's Accounts

5:49 to 7:14

Examining Bede's historical writings and their impact on Pictish understanding.

“You're talking about a man that we at school learn as the venerable bead, one of Britain's earliest historians.”

Pictish Women in Society

7:28 to 8:17

Discussing evidence of women's roles within Pictish society through archaeology.

“Gordon, before we leave women, I know Anita will be very keen to pursue this.”

Excavations at Rhine

8:30 to 12:22

Details about significant findings from excavations at Rhine and its implications.

“Let's start, Gordon, with what your excavations have actually found, because particularly Rhine is a discovery that really began to change everything.”

Discoveries at Burghead

12:25 to 14:03

Discussing the archaeological significance of the site at Burghead and Pictish fortifications.

“And there's this huge hill fort that overlooks Rhinney called Tapanoth.”

Discovering Pictish Fortifications

14:03 to 16:27

Explore the significance of newly identified Pictish sites and fortifications.

“So this is a slightly different kind of site.”

The Mystery of Pictish Symbol Stones

16:27 to 17:16

Delve into the history and meaning of Pictish symbol stones and their carvings.

“I mean, I'm just keen to get a little more meat on the bones of this very sort of scanty history that we were always given, which was just basically nothing deeper than skin deep, than the tattoos.”

Cracking the Code of Pictish Symbols

17:16 to 19:57

Investigate the theories and archaeological findings related to the meanings of Pictish symbols.

“Yeah, there are amazing things, and it's why I got interested in the picks, you know.”
Show all 22 chapters

Unearthing Pictish Material Culture

19:57 to 23:22

Learn about the discoveries of silver objects and their connection to Pictish culture.

“You mentioned this extraordinary find of Eastern Mediterranean wine in the middle of Aberdeenshire, but the symbols themselves have many echoes to very distant art networks, don't they?”

Pictish Religion & Columba's Influence

23:22 to 27:49

Examine the insights into Pictish religion and the impact of Saint Columba.

“So again, it shows you that the symbols on the stones were just part of a wider Pictish culture.”

Pictish Religion & Columba's Influence

29:09 to 29:37

Examine the insights into Pictish religion and the impact of Saint Columba.

“Getting help from one of State Farm's 19 ,000 local agents when you choose to bundle home and auto.”

Nessie and Columba's Encounter

29:37 to 29:59

Uncover the legend of Nessie and Columba's interactions.

“Now, Gordon, I sort of talked about Nessie before the break.”

Miracles and Imagination

29:59 to 31:09

Discuss the clash of miracles between Columba and the Picts.

“and at one point they encounter this monster on the lock, which, you know, is it Nessie?”

Pictish Magical Figures

31:09 to 32:03

Explore the significance of magical figures in Pictish culture.

“Well, I'm an archaeologist rather than historian.”

Christianity in Pictish Art

32:03 to 33:56

Learn how Pictish art evolved with the arrival of Christianity.

“Are they actually magi we see on some of these stones?”

The Book of Kells Debate

33:56 to 35:59

Delve into the scholarly debate over the origins of the Book of Kells.

“So we often think of, you know, this conversion point and then everyone's Christian.”

Pictish Artistic Innovations

35:59 to 38:04

Investigate the artistic contributions of the Picts in history.

“The Book of Kells is so supremely important to the Irish sense of itself, if you like.”

Pictish Influence from Vikings

38:04 to 38:15

Understand the effects of Viking invasions on Pictish culture.

“The pics were amazing at carving and making objects with animals and people on them.”

Attacks on Iona

38:15 to 42:02

Learn about the Viking attacks that threatened Iona and its manuscripts.

“Claim it if you want to start a proper fight.”

Viking Influence on Pictland

42:02 to 46:05

Learn about the impact of Viking raids on the Pictish kingdoms and the archaeological evidence from sites like Burghead.

“It does my head in, just thinking of it.”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00William:If you want access to bonus episodes, reading lists for every series of Empire, a chat community, discounts for all the books mentioned in the week's podcast, add free listening, and a weekly newsletter, sign up to Empire Club at www.empirepoduk .com. For adults with Crohn's disease or ulcerative colitis symptoms, every choice matters. Tremphaya offers self-injection or intravenous infusion from the start. Tremphaya is administered as injections under the skin or infusions through a vein every four weeks, followed by injections under the skin every four or eight weeks. If your doctor decides that you can self-inject Tremphaya, proper training is required.

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2:29William:Welcome to Empire. I'm William Durimple.

2:31Anita:And I'm Anita Arnond. And in today's episode, we're going to be exploring the Picts, the mysterious painted people who ruled parts of eastern Scotland for 500 years. And with us today, We have somebody who's done more than anybody in recent years to recover the Pictish world from complete obscurity. He's Professor of Archaeology at the University of Aberdeen. He's Director of the Northern Picts Project and co-author of The King in the North, the Pictish Realms. Gordon Noble, welcome to Empire. Thanks so much for having me. Very nice to meet you.

3:05William:Gordon, very nice to see you. We had a lovely trip together to Burghead last summer and I've been trying to get you on the show ever since. So it's very good to see you here in your new dig at East Lomond. Let's just start with the simple question that most people who don't live in Scotland will be asking. Who were the Picts and what era are we talking about? So it's a name that's first introduced by the Romans in AD 297. It's in a praise poetry to an emperor of Rome mentioning a group called the Picts. And essentially it means the Painted People. So it's a Roman nickname. And for whatever reason, that nickname seems to stick for many centuries.

3:45And as people occupy northeast Scotland, ruling over what was a really extensive kingdom for the time period and disappear around about 900 AD.

3:56William:Taskel authors maintained that they went into battle covered in tattoos and war paint. But Anita is going to be very excited because they were also matrilineal. kingship passed through the female line rather than the male, which is unusual in any society and particularly unusual in the British Isles.

4:17Anita:I never knew that. I mean, in school here in Britain, I think many people who are my age will remember the first thing you do in history is you colour in sort of a paint-by-colour Pictish person, you know, and there's sort of the winding tattoos on their bodies. But why didn't they tell us about the matrilineal succession? So, I mean, almost every other political system, as everybody knows who's listened to this podcast, and particularly in the British Isles, ran through the male line. Why did the Picts do something so very different? Well, it's a subject of great debate, that one. And in fact, Bede actually says it's only at times of stress, really, that they might actually inherit through the female line.

4:58Having said that, Pictish succession does look quite complicated, and it says very rarely father to son, at least until the later period. So there does seem to be a real period of flux in terms of actually how Pictish succession was made up. But to be honest, you know, our sources are so vague, really, that we don't even know if there was always a single Pictish king, how often there were sub-kings or sub-rulers. And certainly Pictish rule seems to be divided at certain times throughout the history of the Picts.

5:28Anita:It's not categorically that it was matrilineal, It just sometimes when they felt like it might have been. Is that what you're saying? Yes, absolutely. That's what bead seems to suggest. So unless we get more evidence, it'd be hard to say more about that. But certainly it seems rare as far as we can tell in terms of this session of the Pictish kings. Gordon, you mentioned bead twice as if we're all mates. You're talking about a man that we at school learn as the venerable bead, one of Britain's earliest historians. By the way, Willie, you'll love this. I got into so much trouble once, first essay, I wrote the venereal bead and they thought I was taking a call to detention.

6:08Anita:It's a venereal. No, I couldn't spell. Anyway, could you tell us more about the venereal, I mean, the venerable bead? Who is the venerable bead? Well, he's this great English historian who's writing about the, well, mainly the ecclesiastical history of England or what became England. And he mentions the Picts at various times, but obviously that information is filtered through the sources that he's able to access. So as well as the kind of matrilineal aspect, he also talks about the Picts coming from Scythia, which is, you know, a modern day area of places like Ukraine. That's probably because he's able now to access classical sources that talk about, you know, tattooed warriors bothering the Roman Empire.

6:55And he's putting two and two together and suggesting that the pics came from Scythia, another noted origin point for an enemy of Rome, really. So there's lots of misinformation, I guess, you know, fluctuating and being communicated through authors like Bede. So it really adds to the kind of mysterious air of the Picts in terms we have lots of snippets about them, but that's clearly not always right in terms of what is communicating about these people who are living north of the Roman frontier.

7:28William:Gordon, before we leave women, I know Anita will be very keen to pursue this. One of the most famous, possibly the largest and most famous Pictish stone does have a Pictish queen or a large image of a Pictish aristocratic woman of some sort riding side saddle with warriors around her and hunting dogs and a huge penannular brooch on her front, the Hilton of Cadbol slab now in Edinburgh. So that again is a little bit of evidence that you don't see in English sculptures of the same period any pictures of women, but you do see it very prominently on the biggest ever Pictish lab. In the burial record, you know, places like London, Lakes and Fife, we have burial monuments that are full of the burials of women.

8:13So there's clearly something interesting going on there in terms of picture society. But it's probably things like archaeology and genetics is going to tell us more about the relationships between people in the picture period than our traditional historical sources, perhaps.

8:30William:Let's start, Gordon, with what your excavations have actually found, because particularly Rhine is a discovery that really began to change everything. That's when I first heard about you. Where is it? And what is it about that excavation that began to change, or how we look at Pictish symbol stones, but also the Picts in general? Yes. So Rhine is fascinating. And it's amazing that I didn't myself know much about this, or indeed know anything about the Picts really, until I went to university. It's quite embarrassing. how little we teach our kids in Scotland about the pics. But anyway, I started this, what I thought was going to be a sideline project to look at picture society through this place called Rhiney.

9:12And it's a place that's about 40 miles west of Aberdeen, the city of Aberdeen, where I'm a professor at. And it's got this really interesting place name, which comes from this early Celtic word, re for king, and it seems to mean a place associated with a great or a sacred king. But we don't have any historical sources to this place But that's not surprising We only have a handful of pictures places actually mentioned in our sources And from Rhinie there's this whole series of carved stones So the Picts are famous for their carved stones And probably the most impressive one is this carving called the Rhinie Man And this was found by the farmer in 1978 ploughing his field He hit this big stone, probably broke his plough and he turned the stone over and there was this figure carrying this axe over his shoulder with big pointy teeth.

10:04Such an arresting image. And the question was, you know, what on earth is this stone doing in this arable field, just the south of this very small village of Rhinie? And so we set out to find out more. And in the same year that Rhinie Man was found, they flew over the site and they recorded these crop marks on top of this glacial knoll, so this kind of naturally prominent place in the landscape. And to cut a long story short, that series of enclosures that were identified from there turned out to be this really wealthy Pictish settlement, befitting of that title, you know, a place associated with a great king.

10:42So we had large timber buildings, some sort of rampart or enclosure, and inside we find all the kind of material you might associate with elite places of this time. So they were importing wine amphora from the Eastern Mediterranean, glass from Western France, from drinking goblets. So the kind of thing we associate with courtly society in the early medieval period. And this material has never been found this far north or east before. So this was really exciting. Hang on, hang on.

11:18Anita:Mediterranean wine. Now, Now, wait a minute, because that wasn't in my Pictish colouring book. So, I mean, that would suggest that if you're finding Eastern Mediterranean wine in Aberdeenshire, that they picked what trade is. I mean, is that too much of an inference in the 5th century that they were doing foreign trade? Absolutely. I mean, this material seems to be coming up the west coast of Scotland and Britain more generally. It's probably associated with the metal trade in places like Cornwall. So this material is coming in as part of early Christian networks and early trading networks in this post-Roman period, in the so-called Dark Ages.

11:57And it's finding its way all the way up to Rhine, which is 40 kilometers away from the coast. So it's amazing this material found its way there. And it just shows you how powerful these people were at Rhine that were able to tap into those trade networks. And we would never have guessed that. We had these amazing carved stones from Rhinney, but we had no clue that this really, really wealthy settlement was located there. And then that just turned out to be the tip of the iceberg. So we started working in the wider landscape. And there's this huge hill fort that overlooks Rhinney called Tapanoth.

12:31And it's got this 17 hectare enclosure. It's a huge, huge hill fort, one of the largest known from Northern Britain. And this was always thought to be a prehistoric monument. But we excavated it and dated it to the Pictish period. And it's got something like 800 houses inside it. So this was a huge community and the kind of scale of society that we had no idea existed in the Pictish period. So, you know, almost overnight, we've overturned so many things about Pictish society and really showing it's way more complex than we perhaps assumed.

13:07William:We had a series on Gaza last year and those torpedo shaped jars from Gaza, the sweet wine. Was it one of those? Was it the ones with the kind of little thing at the bottom? Was it Gaza wine or Alexandrian wine? They seem to come from various locations in the eastern Mediterranean. It's hard to tell from the tiny shards that we found exactly where it might have came from. But yeah, it was just so remarkable to find that material. And we found it within the first few days of excavating at Riney in 2011. and I was able to phone up one of my friends who's a specialist in these imports and say, well, we've got this very strange looking pottery and we've got this glass with white trails.

13:47And he was like, well, you've got an import site here and that's just amazing. And it was just meant to be a sideline project. I was doing prehistoric archaeology, but I'd always been interested in the picks. But I'd never really pursued that because people were like, well, don't bother doing the archaeology, the pics because there's nothing to find out and you'll just get lost in the symbols and there

14:07William:lies there lies madness essentially yeah many fine scholars have gone down that way fast exactly gordon last summer i drove up to see you in in burghead which is another spectacular site we always knew that burghead was there with this mysterious well system down at the bottom but you were the first person again that firmly dated that to the pics you've suddenly given the pics a whole range of sites and a whole load of Pictish fortifications and towns which we didn't know existed. Yeah, absolutely. So this is a slightly different kind of site. So it's a promontory fort, so it sticks out into the Murray Firth, this amazing kind of connected area of sea.

14:47And it's this huge fortification. And it was first identified in the modern period in the 19th century, and they did various excavations after the modern town of Burghead had to be built over around about half of the Pictish Fort there and destroyed a huge chunk of the site. And again, people were like, well, you know, don't really go to Burghead because there's nothing to find out. But in those 19th century excavations, again, they found some amazing carvings, carvings of boules, about 30 individual monuments with boules on them. There's only six surviving today, sadly, one in the British Museum, one in the National Museum and others held locally.

15:26William:One in Elgin, isn't it? Yeah. Yeah. And what are these carvings? What do they denote? And what we've got there is really a fortress and settlement that dates to when the Pictish kingdoms are at their height in the 7th and 8th centuries. So this is really when the over kingdom of the Picts is established. and they're creating these huge fortresses with walls that are eight metres thick, six metres high. It's like, you know, kind of castle architecture in the Pictish period. And then a huge settlement inside with these long distance connections being demonstrated through the material culture. So again, it's really, really overturning what we thought we knew about the Picts.

16:08Anita:Do you know, there's something else that's going to overturn the peace and quiet of Birkhead. I'll tell you that for a fact because I think it's the site where Christopher Nolan filmed part of the Odyssey. So just expect lots of people in tab arts taking little visitor groups up there. It's just a crazy thought, isn't it? Sort of a Bronze Age epic being filmed in the largest Pictish fort in Scotland. I kind of find it delicious. Let's talk about it. I mean, I'm just keen to get a little more meat on the bones of this very sort of scanty history that we were always given, which was just basically nothing deeper than skin deep, than the tattoos.

16:47Anita:And Willie, you've been really into the stones rather than the skin, haven't you?

16:52William:I am obsessed with it, like many people, because despite many, many works coming out on them and generations of scholars looking at these stones, starting with a man called Romilly Allen who went around the highlands with a horse and cart photographing every one of these pictures. and I bought, I got a copy of this fantastic, fat, leather-bound volume that he did in the 19th century. And his work really has not been improved upon as a record of these beautiful, beautiful carvings. But give us an idea, because as you say, it's something that's driven generations of scholars bad, because they come up with elaborate theories, and there's actually, there's very little to prove what is true, what isn't.

17:31Yeah, there are amazing things, and it's why I got interested in the picks, you know. and I was studying art history and my lecturer put up some slides of some of these symbol stones. And again, I grew up in northeast Scotland and never seen any. And I was just like, my goodness, what are these and why aren't they better known? So the early examples are often just the symbols on large boulders or standing stones. And there are things like, you know, abstract symbols, things we call double discs and crescents, but also these amazing animal carvings. The pics are so famous for being amazing craftspeople.

18:08So we've got things like wolves, bulls, other animals, and they're so well represented. Salmon, snakes. Yeah. And so, yeah, what do they mean? And so that's been one of the big things that's trying to crack the code. And certain stones give us a few clues. So you mentioned Willie Dunfallandy. And you can see that there's people on chairs, maybe even thrones, and they're labeled with these symbols, often in pairs. So the most likely explanation is that some sort of naming system. So the symbols represent sounds or words, almost like a hieroglyphic or logographic kind of representation. But unless we find a Rosetta stone, we're not really going to be able to say more.

18:54But this is where archaeology comes in. And so one of the other big mysteries is how old were they? What context are they in? So excavations at places like Rhinney shows that Rhinney Mann and one of the standing stones with two symbols on, a salmon and a Pictish beast, they stood at the entranceway into what was probably this royal complex at Rhinney. So you can see the advertising at the front door, essentially, that people of high status and people with influence are located at the site. And we're also finding stuff at Rhinney in the ground, which resembles what you see on the stones. so you can begin to date the stones through these archaeological associations so we found a little miniature axe that looks like the rainy man carries we found these amazing clay molds for making animal figurines which resemble the animals you see on the stones and you can date those archaeological layers you can actually see that the stones date back to you know third fourth centuries perhaps and certainly the fifth sixth centuries so a bit earlier than people maybe had generally assumed.

20:03William:You mentioned this extraordinary find of Eastern Mediterranean wine in the middle of Aberdeenshire, but the symbols themselves have many echoes to very distant art networks, don't they? There are clearly Byzantine borrowings, there's images that we know are Coptic monks from Egypt, and there's even monsters and images that appear to sort of be echoes of stuff coming out of Sasanian Persia. I mean, these are very, very far away places to be influencing carfsmen sitting outside Aberdeen and Inverness and Perth.

20:38Anita:Gordon, I want to talk about something, you know, shiny and exciting, the silver, because, you know, the Gaul Cross Horde is one of the great stories of your project. Tell us a little bit about it. Yes. So we don't have an awful lot of actual complete Pictish objects or often not in context, certainly. So as archaeologists, even at places like Rhyne, we're generally finding what people throw away. So the bits and pieces, scrap and the like. So it's amazing to find more complete objects, but often they don't have context because they were found in the 19th century. So in the 19th century at Golcross, an improving farmer had blown up a stone circle with dynamite to remove it from his land and during that process of destruction he'd found these silver objects but unfortunately only three objects were retained one was a beautiful silver hand pin which is a style of dress pin that's ultimately goes back to roman style a bangle and a piece of silver chain so we went back to the fine spot to say well not really thinking we'd find anything else.

21:48But we involved a local metal detectorist and the National Museum of Scotland, my colleague Martin Goldberg. And we started scanning the field round about where we thought this destroyed stone circle was, which was a prehistoric monument, so earlier than the Picts. But clearly, they buried their silver next to this ancient monument, presumably to go back and get it, or maybe a gift to the gods, perhaps. But anyway, we started scanning the field and we very quickly began to find silver object after silver object and we eventually we recovered

22:21William:over a hundred pieces of silver good day's work yeah it was not bad uh some of it was pictus in style and some of it was roman so we had things like uh clipped roman coins bits of roman weaponry and jewelry and tableware and the like and this is an example of how So the Picts were getting a hold of Roman material, things like silver and glass, melting it down, reworking it, and creating objects and fashion that was very much in the Pictish style, but also perhaps relating to Roman military traditions, for example. So it just shows you revisiting some of these early find spots can really uncover so much more.

23:10And again, we were able then through all this new material culture to begin to actually reassess the chronology of some of these early Pictish objects and again, relate them to the Pictish stones. So some of the material culture we find at places like Gold Cross and Norris Law, you get, you know, for example, symbols incised onto silver objects. So again, it shows you that the symbols on the stones were just part of a wider Pictish culture. And the symbol system had a wider currency, essentially.

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23:43Anita:And I'm desperate to ask you this. There's a charming TV series called The Detectorists. I don't know whether it's something that all archaeologists watch religiously. It's very lovely. It's a drama. I mean, it's fabulous. But these two people who sort of tirelessly go looking at farmers' ploughed fields looking for something. and I just want to know from you when you pick up something an object that has not been touched by human hands for thousands of years I mean you sound like a cool customer when you're chatting to us but what was going on in your heart and your head at the time? Oh it was absolutely incredible it was I think it was for some reason we chose to do it in December and it was like snowing and it was it wasn't a pleasant experience but when you begin to find that sort of material culture it's just incredible.

24:31And the same with Rhinie. As I say, we had no idea we were going to find all this, you know, objects from far flung places and really uncover this Pictish world. So it's hugely exciting. And even as an archaeologist, it's still amazing to me that, you know, you can take the turf off, like this site at East Lomond where we're working on just now, and you're straight down onto buildings and structures and finds from the Pictish period from, you know, 1500 years ago. That's just an incredible thing, really, isn't it? This material is still there.

25:01William:It's literally what you're doing this morning. Yeah, absolutely. Yeah.

25:04Anita:Columba is also, you know, a fantastically interesting character. You may know him as Saint Columba, the monk Columba, but, you know, not so well known beyond the British Isles. Just give us a little, you know, summary of who Columba was.

25:19William:So he is the man credited with converting the pics and he left Ireland under something of a cloud. Gordon, he was accused of murder, wasn't he? Well, I think so, yes. And he goes across, escapes to what is now Scotland. And he sets up this famous monastery at Iona, which is still a major place of pilgrimage, a little offshore island just off the island of Mull on the west coast of Scotland. Like many regions in the world, the only way we tend to know about the pagan religion is through the eyes of Roman sources and laterally Christian sources. So in Pigland, there's the life of Columba, who's credited with converting the northern Picts.

26:00And in that life, they talk about Columba going to the fortress of Brithé, who's a really powerful king in the late 6th century. And this is a documented figure, so he appears in other sources. He's a real king. And Columba goes to his fortress, which is round about Loch Ness.

26:18William:Above Inverness, somewhere, yeah. And he talks about the court of the king. And in the court of the king is a figure called a magi, a wizard or a druid, perhaps. It's amazing because Columba and the magi begin to have battles to court the king's influence. So they're both trying to control the weather. They're both blessing or cursing wells, for example. So you get this insight into this pagan world. But how true is it really in terms of, you know, it's hard to know in this Christian world whether they're deliberately creating this binary opposition between the pagan magi and the more successful early Christian saintly figure.

27:06But it gives you some clues about things like wells and natural places seem to be important to the Picts. From the archaeological record, we know that caves are important in terms of places of death and transformation. And we also get insight into things like quartz stones, which seem to be healing stones. And we find these on archaeological sites are called painted pebbles. And we find a few at Burkhead last year. So these might be charm stones or healing stones. So there's clues, small snippets about what the pre-Christian religion might have been.

27:40Anita:I mean, the clues are so teeny tiny tantalising. It just sort of builds up this really mysterious picture that surrounds these painted people. There is another mysterious thing we're going to talk about after the break. You're going to love it, don't miss it. The first sighting of the Loch Ness Monster. Join us after the break.

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29:37Anita:Welcome back. Now, Gordon, I sort of talked about Nessie before the break. I want to talk about Nessie now. Tell us a bit more about this first sighting. Yes, so this is another episode in the life of Columba, where Columba is again battling with the Pictish Magi over various other episodes. But at one point he goes to Loch Ness and he tries to cross the loch, but the Magi whips up the winds and a storm and creates all sorts of havoc. and at one point they encounter this monster on the lock, which, you know, is it Nessie? Who knows? It's definitely Nessie. It's not Nessie. It's not a thing.

30:27William:Anita, you and I will have words about this after. Yeah, we'll fall out about this.

30:32Anita:It's not Nessie. Okay, but something, and the story goes that something is conjured up in the chaos. Columbo, what, he raises his hands and what sort of calms the storms he has? I mean, it's all miracle versus miracle at this time, isn't it? It is. It is. Yeah. So it's probably quite fascinating to think about what early Christian religion looked like and what these magi were doing wasn't actually that dissimilar in many ways. So it's really, really fascinating to get a glimpse into that world. But obviously, these stories are kind of fantastical, really. But it is this really interesting mention of this monster in Loch Ness.

31:08William:Gordon, I'm very disappointed to see you take Anita's rationalist view of these things.

31:14Anita:Do you mean the sane view? Yes, I know. It's odd. Well, I'm an archaeologist rather than historian. Well, I mean, you know, also you don't listen to fairies. But the thing is, OK, you know, what it tells us is that, you know, whoever wants to win hearts and minds has to also win the imagination. And this is a real battle of the imagination between the Pictish world and this new faith that Columba is bringing. It isn't about salvation. It's about I can do the bigger miracle. And because healing the sick and talking to animals, you know, Dr. Doolittling it, all of this is part of the Columba mythology, isn't it?

31:52Yeah, absolutely. So it's great to get these insights into these figures. Again, how much weight can we put on these sources? I think it's certainly very possible that Brithé, this powerful king Did have some sort of magical druid-like figure in his court This would have been largely a pre-Christian context And on some Pictish stones you actually see these really interesting figures like the Reiny Man who seem to be part human, part animal. So are these kind of shamanic figures? Are they actually magi we see on some of these stones? So it's really, again, interesting to think about how the imagery you see on the picture stones might be grounded in everyday belief.

32:44And some of that is almost certainly kind of a pre-Christian character. So the Rhyne Man, for example, is carrying this axe that is very, very similar to the axe found in the famous Sutton Hoo ship burial, buried next to the king, who many people assume is Redwild. And it's an axe type that's associated with slaughter of animals. And this is the kind of thing that early pagan sacral kings might be associated with. So again, we have these historical sources, but hopefully the archaeological record will begin to tell us more and more about these early Christian figures, but also maybe these pre-Christian magi or druids within Pictish society.

33:25William:Now, Gordon, one thing that's very important to explain to people, perhaps, is that when the Picts are converted to Christianity, we begin to see signs of Christianity in Pictish art. They don't drop the symbols. The symbols, these mysterious figures, the V rods and the crescents and the Z rods and the double discs and the famous swimming elephant symbol, which if you haven't seen it, go and Google it now. It's one of the most beautiful of all the Pictish symbols. These continue on into early Christian art. So you get this weird conjunction of different worlds. Take us there for a minute. Yeah, absolutely.

33:58So we often think of, you know, this conversion point and then everyone's Christian. It's all, you know, a complete transformation within society. But as you say, we see things like the Pictish symbols continue on to these monuments. We see some of these mask wearing or animal head figures appear on Christian cross slabs. So it may well be that some of these monuments are, you know, kind of broaching to face, really. You know, they're putting weight on both religions, I guess. So, yeah, you get this continuation of the symbol tradition.

34:32William:And you see some of these Pictish animals appearing in the early Celtic manuscripts. So one of the figures in the Book of Durro, the evangelist symbol of the Lion of St. Mark, is very similar to a Pictish animal. And this has led lately to a wonderful new academic battle between Scotland and Ireland, because my old teacher of history of art at Cambridge, Isabel Henderson, 20 years ago, put forward this idea that the closest thing you get to the Book of Kells is nothing in Ireland. is actually the Nigg Stone, one of the Christian Pictish stones in a place called Nigg in the Black Isle north of Inverness.

35:15William:And this has heated up lately because we've had a new book published this year that has angered the Irish and put their backs right out because the Book of Cells is usually said to be the ultimate symbol of Irish civilization. But it's now being seriously mooted that not only are many of the evangelist symbols and so on that you see in the insular manuscripts, the Celtic-style gospel books from this period, very like Pictish animals, but there's now actually a very well-documented scholarly argument that the Book of Kells itself may have been produced in Pictland.

35:59Anita:The Book of Kells is so supremely important to the Irish sense of itself, if you like. And just for those of you who may not know, sometimes it's known as the Book of Columba. And it's this beautiful illustrated manuscript, the Celtic Gospel, if you like. It's an absolutely exquisite and priceless thing. And for the Irish to be challenged that theirs wasn't first and theirs wasn't the most important, I would put it to you, Gordon, that's quite a lot. I mean, if you're going to suggest that actually the Picts were responsible for it, you're going to start a fight, aren't you? Well, it may be a fight, but probably a very gentle academic debate is the case in this case.

36:41William:I've tried bringing this up in Dublin and it wasn't that gentle. Yeah, maybe it depends on the context. No, this is a wonderful book by Victoria Whitworth, who's looked at the Book of Kells. And one element of that study is looking at the possible origin points for this amazing manuscript. and you know one of the perplexing aspects of the pics is you know why do we have so few surviving sources or illuminated books for example and you know back in the day when we had no or very little archaeology there wasn't really a strong case to say you know the pics were particular innovators in some of these wonderful works of art but that's again you know hugely transformed in recent years.

37:28So major excavations at Port Mahomet, which is on the Tarbert Peninsula, north of Inverness, has identified this monastery of the Picts, where we again, we have carved stones, which resemble some of the beautiful illuminated pages in the Book of Kells on the sculpture. So this is why Isabel Henderson suggested, well, there could be a link here. And the excavations uncovered amazing evidence for vellum production. So they were producing books there at Port Mahomet and huge amounts of sculpture and other material culture, which is rich in imagery. The pics were amazing at carving and making objects with animals and people on them.

38:09They're some of the best artists really in Western Europe in this time period. So it really begins to add weight to, well, major works of art like the Book of Kells could conceivably have been made in Pickland.

38:23Anita:You brave man, conceivably. Are you frit, Gordon? Are you frit for saying it? Claim it, man. Claim it if you want to start a proper fight. No, I mean, I think it's really, really interesting. It's probably not resolvable unless we can trace the origins of the vellum of the Book of Kells. You could probably do that, couldn't you now?

38:43William:Yeah. I bet the Irish won't let you take a sample, though. They're too worried. Well, I think you can do it, you know, non-invasively these days. So, yeah, that would be one way to begin to settle the debate. Oh, I'd love that. I would love that. Trinity, we'd have to do one of those sort of colonial reclamation projects and demand that the Irish give back what is truly, truly the work of the Scots and the Picts.

39:07Anita:Can I just say all I can see in my mind's eyes, like a West Side Story, Jets and Sharks, with sort of the Irish and the Scottish academics fronting up to each other and hitting each other with pencils. It's delicious. But what it does tell us, apart from this controversy, you were talking, I just want to go back to something that is still in my head, which is this international influence on the world of the Picts. I mean, we talked about wine, of course we did, but we should also talk about the art and the influence of iconography and imagery. I mean, tell us a little bit about what you've seen and where you think those influences, how far they've travelled to come into that Pictish art language, if I can put it that way.

39:52I think, as Willie was saying, there was lots of assumptions about Pictish art. And back in the 20th century, there was this famous book, The Problem of the Picks. And some of the work on art history then was very much suggesting, you know, the picks were late to the game. They were copying sources further south. Now all this new dating in places like Riney and places like Dunacare, another location with symbol stones, were able to show that the picks were major innovators in things like animal imagery. and so they themselves are clearly a major contributor to these insular art styles so this you know the irish english scottish bictish art style so they weren't late to the game at all you know they clearly were major innovators which again gives gives ammunition to this idea that works like the the book of kells could be produced in pickland but yeah they've got all sorts of influences, they've got Roman influences, they've got Anglo-Saxon influences, and laterally Scandinavian influences.

40:55You begin to see influences on Pictish art in the 9th century with the adoption of Scandinavian imagery and art styles as well.

41:06William:You introduced at the beginning this lovely idea of this Eastern Mediterranean wine coming all the way to Aberdeenshire, but there's also Eastern Mediterranean monks depicted on Pictish stones. Very specifically, one of the most frequently depicted images that we know for sure is the monks Paul and Antony. And St. Antony was the founder of Christian monasticism. He lived in a monastery near the Red Sea. And I've been to St. Paul's monastery, also on the Red Sea, which was where his friend St. Paul lived. And there is a little scene of two monks breaking a host, which is exactly the same as one of the stones at St.

41:43William:Vigian's in Perthshire, one of the great Pictish museums. If you're coming to Scotland this summer, if you live here already, there are two wonderful Pictish museums, St. Vigian's and Meagol. And you can just lose yourself in these Pictish stones for a whole day in either of those. But they have these incredibly wide sources, these monks from Egypt in the middle again of Perth. It does my head in, just thinking of it.

42:04Anita:While your head is done in, on the sort of Scandinavian influence that, Gordon, you were talking about. I mean, that has to be with the travels and adventures of the Vikings. And we should say that this beautiful fight that I have in my head between Scottish and Irish academics over the Book of Cells, the Book of Cells may not even have survived because of the Vikings. I mean, we should sort of tell the story of the near destruction of Iona. So, I mean, what happened? We're talking about around 795 to 810 AD. I mean, those are the dates that we're talking about? Yeah, so famously, there's various attacks on Iona by the Vikings.

42:46And that would have been in the kingdom of Da Riada, which is this kingdom of the Scots, Gaelic speakers. But that seems to be partly controlled by Pictland at various points in the 8th and 9th century. Probably less well-known is that the Vikings were also being major problems for Pictish kings as well. So some of the Danelaw armies, for example, descend upon Pickland and they overwinter in Pickland in the 9th century. They kill various Pictish kings. This is probably one of the roots of the demise of the Pictish kingdoms, which disappear from view round about 890s, 900 AD. Major sites like Burghead, so far all our radiocarbon dating adds up to this major destruction and abandonment of this huge settlement, this northern Pictish powerhouse, in the same time period, in the kind of 880s, 890s, 900s.

43:48And at Burghead, we've got material that's coming from the Danelaw that we found in our excavations.

43:54William:Danelaw being the bit of northern England that the Vikings had seized, bits of Yorkshire and Tyneside and so on. Yeah, that's right. So again, it's amazing to begin to find in our Pictish sites material that talk about these connections and this major period of strife in this time in which all these Pictish kings are going into battle and being killed by Vikings. And very close to Burkhead is this amazing monument called the Swaino Stone. So it's named after a Scandinavian king, but it's a Pictish monument. It's a wonderful, wonderful stone. Huge, tall thing. That's right, about six metres high.

44:32And on the back is this incredible battle scene, which may well be a battle between the Picts and the Vikings. And it's almost like a capstone to this Pictish period.

44:43William:And there's a brock, isn't there? There's one of these tall towers. Well, yeah, there's lots of debate about some of the imagery there. But I think it's, you know, Professor Jane Geddes, for example, was recently interpreted as a major battle between the Picts and the Vikings. Love it. And we've also been able to date the stone through archaeological associations to round about 900 AD. So it matches the end date of Burghead. So is it actually showing the demise of Burghead, perhaps? Gordon, you've been absolutely fantastic. And my visit last summer to Burghead with you was one of the highlights since I've been looking out from this fantastic promontory with the sun setting and your diggers finding extraordinary finds just behind me on the hill.

45:31William:That was one of the most wonderful days. We're going to be going back to the Vikings in the next episode. We've got the wonderful Eleanor Barraclough, our favourite Viking expert, returning to the series to take us on two episodes into what the Vikings did in the first and then what the Vikings thought and their mythology and religion. Wonderful, wonderful stuff in the second to wrap up.

45:59Anita:And you know what? If you don't want to wait and you want to listen to Eleanor right this second, all you have to do to access all our exclusive bonus episodes, join Empire Club, follow the link in the episode description. Till the next time we meet, it's goodbye from me, Anita Arnand.

46:15William:And goodbye from me. And with many thanks to Gordon William Durrumpur.

46:26you matched on hinge you're vibing then her energy completely changes what do you do i'm raven smith and i wrote and read a real love story about this exact sitch listen to the free audiobook

46:39William:now every week the snap judgment podcast drops you inside someone's biggest decision the kind of decision you can only make once with everything on the line what do you believe what do you want and what would you risk to get it find out tap to listen now to snap judgment from kqed on spotify

From the publisher

Who were the mysterious peoples who ruled parts of Scotland for 500 years? What is the true origin of the Loch Ness Monster? Is there a secret code behind the Pictish carved stones? What do recent excavations at Rhynie tell us about the Picts?

William and Anita are joined by Professor Gordon Noble, Director of the Northern Picts Project and co-author of Picts: Scourge of Rome, Rulers of the North, to uncover the hidden world of the Picts.

Summer sale is here: get an annual Empire Club membership for an extra 20% off with code SUMMER26. That's ad-free listening, early-access, every bonus episode, and full access to our exclusive members' series. Sale ends August 31st, so grab it before summer's over.

 

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