387. The Vikings Invade Britain (Ep 5)

16 Aug 2026 · 47 min · 16 chapters

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In short

The episode challenges Viking stereotypes (horned helmets, “always bloody raids”) and explains how Viking dragonships enabled coastal attacks on monasteries, then shifted into settlement—especially the Great Heathen Army’s 865 conquest and the resulting Norse/Danish place-name and cultural legacy across Britain and Ireland.

Guest

Eleanor Baraclough, described as a historian/scholar specializing in early medieval Britain and the Viking era; she discusses evidence from annals, archaeology, manuscripts, coins, and place-name studies.

Key claims

Vikings raided monasteries like Iona and Lindisfarne (e.g., 68 monks killed at Iona in 806) but also took captives for slavery/ransom; “Viking” means raider, not ethnicity. Settlement is visible in language/place names and long-term cultural transformation, not just destruction.

Notable examples

Lindisfarne raider stone; Inchmarnock slate “doodle” of a raider leading a monk; Codex Aureus ransom note by Alfred and Werberg; Repton Viking charnel house (Great Army winter camp); York/Coppergate excavations and “Lloyds Bank coprolite”; Erik Bloodaxe (saga-linked, killed at Stainmore); St Cuthbert’s community eventually settling in Durham (995).

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

Tap a time to open that second in VO

Viking Stereotypes and Reality

1:03 to 2:14

Explore the misconceptions about Vikings, including their imagery and behavior.

“I think this has become so much of our cultural consciousness.”

Monasteries as Targets

2:14 to 3:15

Investigate the vulnerability of monasteries during Viking raids.

“I am absolutely living for these Norwegian fans, even though Norway is technically out of the World Cup.”

Not Just Killing: The Fate of Monks

3:15 to 5:59

Discuss the potential outcomes for monks during Viking raids beyond death.

“And I think that's the problem that behind the stereotype, sometimes we forget that there are real victims and real deaths here.”

Language and Cultural Connections

5:59 to 7:53

Examine the linguistic similarities between Anglo-Saxons and Vikings.

“It can be that they basically they're after cash, portable cash and wealth and money and stuff they can take back to their girlfriends sometimes.”

Understanding the Viking Identity

7:53 to 9:13

Clarify what 'Viking' means and their societal implications beyond raiding.

“I think technically, oh golly, Old Norse is sort of North Germanic and I think Old English is West Germanic.”

Impact of Viking Raids on Monastic Life

9:13 to 11:15

Explore how Viking raids disrupted monastic communities and their productivity.

“I mean, this is, you know, I'm all for giving the Vikings a decent hearing and saying they haven't got horned helmets on, but they're not doing much for ecumenical relations here.”

The Apocalyptic Perspective of Raids

11:15 to 12:48

Delve into the accounts of monks describing Viking raids as apocalyptic events.

“It's an attack on the person that they kneel before and a defeat in many ways in their eyes, I suppose, of their gods and their emissaries on earth.”

What the Vikings Wanted

12:48 to 14:00

Discuss the motivations behind Viking raids focusing on their treasures.

“He's starting some kind of British Isles warfare because he's so thrilled that the Scots might have originated the Book of Kells.”

The Sacred Landscape and Viking Desecration

14:00 to 17:55

Exploration of the cultural significance of sacred sites and the impact of Viking raids on these landscapes.

“It was made by a metal worker called Bill Freeth.”

Transition from Raiding to Settlement

18:33 to 22:55

Discussion about the transition of Vikings from raiders to settlers in Britain, including personal anecdotes and archaeological findings.

“Now, we come to a crucial twist in the story, because we often think of the Vikings raiding.”
Show all 16 chapters

Place Names and Cultural Influence of Vikings

22:55 to 28:00

Examining how Viking settlements influenced modern place names in Britain and Ireland, and their lasting cultural impact.

“the British Isles, is in the language, in the place names.”

The Viking Influence on Irish Place Names

28:00 to 31:55

Explore how Viking settlements influenced the naming of Irish places.

“Maybe we might say sort of more Norwegian in particular, you know, have the long fjords and the fells and the mountains.”

Viking Settlements and Monasteries

31:55 to 34:38

Understanding the impact of Viking settlements on local monasteries and cultures.

“I mean, just give us an idea of what happens.”

The Legacy of Viking Rule in York

34:38 to 38:16

Discuss the archaeological findings and cultural legacy of Viking York.

“So Irfowicz, which is the old English name, becomes, as you say, Jorvik, the old Norse equivalent.”

The Transformation of Religious Practices

38:16 to 41:20

Examine the transformation of religious practices due to Viking influence.

“But what's interesting is that the city that emerges from that good century of Norse rule is still absolutely there.”

The Norse Influence on Religion

42:05 to 42:36

Explore how the Viking presence transformed the religious landscape of Britain.

“And this series is all about the gods and the transformations that take place with these different waves of migration.”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00Anita Anand:If you want access to bonus episodes, reading lists for every series of Empire, a chat community, discounts for all the books mentioned in the week's podcast, add free listening and a weekly newsletter, sign up to Empire Club at www.empirepoduk .com.

0:29Anita Anand:hordes of tall bearded men in horned helmets arriving on the british shores and pillaging the coast this is the viking stereotype many of us were fed as children and we loved it and we know that the helmets actually had no horns but what else have we got wrong In this episode of Empire, we are joined by our wonderful friend Eleanor Baraclough to discuss the arrival of the dragonships. Who were the Vikings? What gold bling did they steal from the monasteries like Iona? And how did they not only invade, but settle the British Isles?

1:02William Dalrymple:Hello and welcome to Empire with me, Anita Arnand.

1:06Anita Anand:And me, William de Rimpel. I think this has become so much of our cultural consciousness. It's basically, it's a cartoon stereotype, isn't it? Raiders coming from across the North Sea, hitting up the monasteries around the coastlines of the British Isles and Ireland. You know, and we've got it in our head. It's blokes with beards and boats and battle axes. You know, it's very much every child at primary school can paint that image. You have two splendid boys who are at primary school at the moment with Viking haircuts, I seem to remember. Yeah, there is a whole long plat thing going on right now because of the heat.

1:41Yeah, exactly. But even they know, and this is important to say, you do not draw your Viking stereotype cartoons with horned helmets. Although having said that, my signature actually has exactly that in it. I get into trouble sometimes. Some children come up to me and say, no, no helmets.

1:57William Dalrymple:I mean, what's interesting is that Norway, though, you know, some Scandinavia embraces that stereotype themselves. I mean, we are recording this just after England's fabulous victory over Norway, by the way. And the number of Norwegian fans with horned helmets on sitting in the stands was extraordinary. I am absolutely living for these Norwegian fans, even though Norway is technically out of the World Cup. As far as I'm concerned, they've won. and we've got these images of even down to little toddlers up to all the fans in the stands doing their roar, roar and they're rowing their boats. But there's one fan in one of the games who was refusing to row.

2:33He was just sitting there with his arms folded and someone asked him why. And he explained, because they didn't row, they had square sails. They were sailing.

2:45William Dalrymple:But you know, they did have oars. They had both, didn't they? Yeah. I'm sure he had a lovely time with his hands folded, arguing with everyone around him. Can we talk, though, if not the horns, but this idea that they did hit monasteries and hit them hard and the monks had no means of defending themselves. Is that true? They didn't have any way of keeping these guys out and therefore they could just come and rush through them like a storm. Yeah, exactly, exactly that. They are absolute sitting ducks. And I think that's the problem that behind the stereotype, sometimes we forget that there are real victims and real deaths here.

3:22And that's what we see in the annals. So there's the sentence describing 68 monks killed on Iona in 806. They've already potentially been attacked twice in 802 and 795. and of course two years before then we're familiar with that iconic attack on Lindisfarne 793 off the coast of northeast England as it is now.

3:44Anita Anand:Which you did wonderfully in Anglo-Saxon for us last year. We were all in the pub and I did a rendition because you accused me of reading off a screen. I was like sir.

3:52William Dalrymple:Can I just say that in the pub by the river Eleanor owned you. Owned you my friend. Go on, show our readers. Here were a raid coming off of Northumberland and the folk English breakdown. There were a liquorice in front of the dragon where he had seen it on the fly of the fly. Sorry, the translation of that, can I just translate it? Shut up, Willie. Shut up. So just with these raids, if you said that, you know, they raided twice before, were they always bloody? Because there's 68 monks killed, sort of hangs in the air, as if it was something quite new, novel and grotesque. But each time they came, I don't suppose they brought flowers.

4:34William Dalrymple:I mean, what was it like? No, I think, yes, they did not bring flowers. I think 68 is probably bad. It's hard to tell numbers. Other than the annals, the way we can look for evidence of what happens is, for example, on visual art. There's that very famous raider stone from Lindisfarne itself, a grave marker from a few decades later.

4:54Anita Anand:These guys with the hands and the arm. Exactly. There's these seven figures and they're holding weapons and the weapons are raised and they're there to attack. We've also got from the other side, another island, but this time off the southwest coast of Scotland, we've got this tiny little island of Inch Marnock. And there they found, and there was a monastery there. We don't know of any attacks there. Tiny, tiny islands. And there they found a piece of slate and on it, someone had basically doodled what seems to be the image of this punk haired Viking in chain mail, carrying off, like literally leading like he's on the end of a fishing rod, a novice monk who's got a reliquary, this little box full of relics attached to him with a chain.

5:37and this punk-haired raiding figure is leading him off to a Viking longship. Now, what's interesting there is he's not on the floor dead. He's not surrounded by corpses. He's being taken off either to be sold into slavery or, if he's important enough, to be ransomed back. And again, we know from the annals that if they were particularly high status, people would pay for their return. So it's not always bloody. It can be that they basically they're after cash, portable cash and wealth and money and stuff they can take back to their girlfriends sometimes.

6:09Anita Anand:I've got a question. We always have these two in opposition, particularly the Anglo-Saxons in Lindisfarne and the Vikings, but they are sort of vaguely cousins, aren't they? Their languages are related. The Anglo-Saxons think of Sutton Hoo arriving in ships not completely different to the Viking ships. These are related. Could they understand each other? Were the words, if they were captured, could the monk have talked a bit of Anglo-Saxon and been understood? So there's a fabulous scholar in York called Matt Townend, and he wrote a book about this. And I once asked him for his intellectual scholarly summary of how they would have communicated.

6:50And he basically said, well, you know, I reckon with a few grunts and points and hand gestures and a few words, they'd have been all right. So you can hear it, for example, fish in old English is F-I-S-C, fish pronounced. In Old Norse, it's fisk. So it just becomes a hard K. And you can hear that in later on when they settle a place named like Skipton, for example, that ship skip word again. So there's plenty that's similar enough, but it's not the same language. What's interesting is that genetically, it's very hard to tell them about because Anglo-Saxon settlers, as we think of it, come from parts of Southern Scandinavia, as well as what's now the Netherlands and so on when they come over the North Sea and settle Britain.

7:32William Dalrymple:I think when we were in the pub, we were talking about my old professor, a lovely man called John Porter, who did the translation of Beowulf. And I remember him reading Old English and then Old Norse poetry. And the cadences are the same. So they may, you know, genetically very similar, some words different, but they really were very, very much alike. Exactly. They're both Germanic languages. I think technically, oh golly, Old Norse is sort of North Germanic and I think Old English is West Germanic. So they've come out a bit. So Frisian is probably the closest to Old English. But yeah, absolutely.

8:07Particularly when I read them because I basically read them both with an Old Norse accent. Oh, wonderful.

8:12William Dalrymple:Oh, I love that. I love that. So, I mean, what we're talking about then is the raiders arriving on the horizon with no warning and absolutely very little capability for people to repel them. And that really tells us what... So people often say, who were the Vikings? What does Viking mean? And it's basically exactly what you described. Viking just means a raider or a pirate. There's an old Norse word, vikingr. And again, if we're talking about similar languages, the old English version of that is just vicing. It's the same word. Once again, it just means a pirate or raider. And so when we think of the Viking age, technically speaking, we are talking about the period in which these raids take place.

8:52But of course, it's not an ethnic descriptor and not everyone in the Viking age is raiding. And that's not the only thing that happens in the Nordic world. And not even people who do raid are always doing it. It's something they tend to do over the summer when they're young, when they're trying to sort of increase their wealth and status.

9:09Anita Anand:But how much does this destroy that golden age of Northumberland that's producing the Lindisfarne Gospels? Because every one of these sites that gets excavated, whether it's Lindisfarne or Port Mahomet, which we had in Gordon's Pict episode, with these wonderful vellum being produced and maybe the real home of the Book of Kells, which I'm very We've gone to this idea. These are all burnt. Iona four or five times. I mean, this is, you know, I'm all for giving the Vikings a decent hearing and saying they haven't got horned helmets on, but they're not doing much for ecumenical relations here. They are most definitely not doing much for ecumenical relations.

9:43No, exactly. So, yeah, the evidence from Port Mahanuck is exactly that. It's burning. It's metalwork smashed. It's this idea that the monastery's productive life is being violently ended. Sometimes it takes time. So in the case of Iona, we have at least three raids.

9:59Anita Anand:And there's nowhere to hide. I went there recently. And I'm just thinking, because I hadn't taken in, it was three different raids. And there's one little hillock at the top, but you'd be very, very obviously visible if you tried to hide anywhere in that island. The Vikings could have got you in 20 minutes. Exactly. And it's the same on Lindisfarne. You know, on Lindisfarne, it's incredibly flat. And the really scary thing about Viking ships, again, you know, exciting. And as we say, we've just had the World Cup. It's all very sort of in our minds as this exciting cultural moment. But the whole reason that Viking ships were very flat-bottomed with these very supple, flexible, clink-built style hulls is so they could get into these very shallow bays.

10:39And sure, you might want to get into these shallow bays, like on Iona, like on Indusvan, if you're trading, but also if you're raiding, you're there and they can't get away. There's nowhere to hide. And that's a really terrifying thoughts. In the case of Iona, that third raid, as you say, it's potentially the third raid in 11 years. And eventually we see these communities packing up. It's not necessarily just because of these raids, but there's something fundamental. They're striking at the heart of those monastic communities.

11:11William Dalrymple:Do we have an account from the people who lived through it? I mean, what did they describe? Because it's an attack on their god. It's an attack on the person that they kneel before and a defeat in many ways in their eyes, I suppose, of their gods and their emissaries on earth. So what do they think about it? What do they say? Yeah, the language is biblical. It's apocalyptic. So Alcuin, he's writing from the court of Charlemagne, but he's from around York somewhere and he knows those monastic communities around the northeast of England as it is now very well. So he writes to them, he says things like, this is after Lindisfarne, he says, never before has such a terror appeared in Britain as we've now suffered from the pagan race.

11:50So it's this idea, and then other accounts talk of this terror from the North. And it's this idea that from the North, evil breaks forth. And so they're absolutely setting it up in these apocalyptic terms of Christians versus pagans and good versus evil. That's how they're understanding it. And it It absolutely makes sense that that's the case. And that's from the last decade of the 8th century, at least. That's when we see these raids being recorded for the first time, but they then carry on.

12:22Anita Anand:And a lot of the stuff that we have from the Golden Age before it, whether it's in Pictland or in Northumberland or in Mercia, is moved to safety at this point, isn't it? We have the – or it's hidden. So the St. Ninian's Isle treasure is probably buried to hide from the Vikings, while the Book of Kells, this famous Pictish manuscript, is carried from Scotland to its colonial home in Ireland. You're going to get to so much.

12:49William Dalrymple:Do you know what he's doing? He's starting some kind of British Isles warfare because he's so thrilled that the Scots might have originated the Book of Kells. Just in case you were wondering, Eleanor, what you've walked in on, that's what this is. It was a gleam.

13:02Anita Anand:I have a festival in Trinity College, Dublin, and Jaipur has it at war with the display there, which makes it this Irish manuscript, exclusively Irish. And it's clearly, you know, anyway. And it's also true of the Lindisfarne Gospels. They're very similar in some ways, artistically speaking. They're made around 700, so nearly a century before that famous raid on Lindisfarne. And what's really interesting is if you think of what the raiders are after, these Viking raiders, they are not after the theological text. They don't care about the parchment, the vellum inside. They care about the bling.

13:37Anita Anand:That they're wrapped in, yeah. And it's a bit like the reliquaries. They are well up for the reliquaries. They take the reliquary boxes and you find them sometimes in the graves of Norwegian females from the period. You have one. She's even put her name in runes at the bottom. It says, Ranveg owns this casket. It's basically taking a nice present home, you know, turning them into brooches. In the case of the Lindisfarne gospel cover, it looks like there was once one. and it was beautiful. It was made by a metal worker called Bill Freeth. But then it's probably ripped off by the raiders. That doesn't survive.

14:11And eventually the community of Lindisfarne leaves quite a few decades later, I should say, and sets off.

14:18Anita Anand:With the body of St. Cuthbert, exactly. Exactly. And then they do this like little road trip, as it were, all around the northeast. Chesterle Street and up in Durham. I mean, I'm a big fan of that because I used to work up in Durham. That's where I was a lecturer for many years. And I was even a member of St. Cuthbert Society, which is one of the colleges. And so very close connection. And the fact that we've still got his body, we've got his relics, we've got the pectoral cross. with their equal arms. Or just in Durham Cathedral now, in the treasury. I love in the Lindisfarne Gospels the fact that the interlace in that is made from the gannets that you can still see fishing in the sea off Lindisfarne and off the May Isle.

15:01Yeah, it's one of those things where you can really feel the embeddedness of these cultural artefacts in the landscapes that created them. But we also have to remember that was true of the communities as well. for them. These were religious landscapes, you know, the islands off the coast of Lindisfarne where Cuthbert was as this hermit figure for many years. And so the destruction that the Vikings brought to these holy places, it's not just the monastery itself, it's not just the killings of monks, it's not just the stealing of the beautiful treasures, it's that desecration of the sacred landscape.

15:36William Dalrymple:Well, I mean, that sacrilege that you describe of a woman putting her necklaces and, you know, sort of bobbins in what used to house a holy relic. I like the fact that they don't even try and hide it. I mean, are there some where you've got an example of somebody basically fessing up to the cop saying, I stole this, I got it from the heathens and I brought it back. I mean, you'll tell me what it says more accurately, but, you know, there are confessions carved in to some of the stolen booty. So this is a wonderful one. The confessions carved into the stolen booty, I think very much applies to Ranveig somewhere who owns this casket.

16:14And it's like, yeah, but...

16:15Anita Anand:You didn't make it. I suspect that because it's a bit later. This is actually an heirloom that's been passed down the women in her household for generations from that first raider. But this, I think, yeah, this wonderful one, it's the Codex Aureus, the golden book. And that tells us everything. This is a bling book. This is the book of bling. And that's why the Vikings wanted it. We know, and by this time, we're in great heathen army territory. So we are in, it was sort of 865, the great heathen army. We're coming to the heathen army soon, yeah. We're not quite there yet. This isn't the first wave of raids.

16:48But the Codex Aureus is clearly stolen from its religious context. And an Anglo-Saxon alderman called Alfred and his wife, Werberg, ransom this book back. Basically, they hand over the gold that the Vikings want in order to give the book back to its religious community. And there's this wonderful little note that the alderman writes on top. He says, in the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, I, a alderman Alfred and Werberg, my wife, obtain these books from the heathen army with our pure money that was with pure gold. And because we did not wish these holy books would remain longer among the heathens, and now we want to give it to Christ's church for God's praise.

17:31So twice there, it's heathens, it's pagans versus the holy books. And then we've got the reference to pure gold. That sums up the whole matrix that's going on within that one book of gold.

17:43William Dalrymple:See, I completely misunderstood. I thought that those who took it off said, yeah, I nicked this and I'm not that clever. But actually, it is the people who get it back who say this was stolen. We got it back from the awful heathens. We're going to take a break here. Join us after the break when we travel from the idea of raiding to the idea of settlement.

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18:41Anita Anand:Welcome back. Now, we come to a crucial twist in the story, because we often think of the Vikings raiding. We don't often so much perhaps think of them settling. But that's exactly what happens in 865. And I've got a personal story here, because as an A-level student, I went down and worked at the dig at Repton. And we found in the Vicar's Garden in Repton, the Viking charnel house, where the SAS, these big strapping lads, all sort of like Norwegian strikers, sort of six foot five, were laid to rest in the first camp of the Great Army after they settled in England. This is the beginning of a move from raids to full-scale colonisation of the north.

19:30Anita Anand:So take us here, dear Eleanor, take us to the Great Army. What are they up to? Why are they deciding to move? What's wrong with Norway? So this is the Mitchell Herre, the Great Army, sometimes called the Mitchell Herre, Nehada, so the great heathen army, as the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle describes it, as you say, arrives in 865. Not a raid, it's a conquest now. So they land in East Anglia, they sweep through Northumbria, they capture York, I think 866, and then they sort of split off and move south and east. And that's a really important part. This isn't one mass. They're really flexible. It's been described somewhere as bands of brothers, which I think is a really clever a description because they're basically, they're coming in these boats and within each of these boats, they already have the units, they have the leader, they have the people who are second in command.

20:21And so they, in a way, can transfer that quite nicely onto land. And so that means that various parties can join up for the big battles, but then they have that flexibility to go off in different directions. And yeah, by 873, they've established a winter camp at Repton, as you say, on the banks of the Trent.

20:38Anita Anand:Which they've sailed up in their longships. I'm so jealous that you got to excavate that.

20:43William Dalrymple:I can't even tell you. If you look at the DNA of some of these bodies, you can see actually a story being told of, you know, this invasion, settlement, and then, you know, generational melding. So this is the really interesting thing, because I think, yes, exactly, there is some evidence in the DNA that we've got sort of various different levels of populations that sort of have more in common with those over the other side of the North Sea. but I was actually talking really recently to a geneticist at the Crick Institute who said actually it's much harder to tell than we think because of the Anglo-Saxon population because the Anglo-Saxons have also come for the most part from the various parts sort of slightly south but also from across the North Sea you've got something that is genetically already very different to you know way back in the midst of time when we're talking about the Britons and the Romans we've got a very different setup already, which is culturally fascinating because that also explains, for example, why they're able to basically point and grunt and use a few words and communicate.

21:49There's a lot in common here. Having said that, when we look at the bodies of the dead themselves, at Repton, at mass burials of young warriors in the context of this time, you do find really really interesting parallels one now this is a little bit later this is from a second wave of kind of viking invasions and tension that comes in the wake of the settlement you've got a mass burial from oxford and that's from around 1000 and they found a young man there who'd been killed violently in this mass burial and they found a second degree relative of his over in denmark i think on odense and so they were able to bring these two together so he was either it's either uncle and nephew or half-brothers or grandfather and grandchild, something like that.

22:39Anita Anand:Antrously.com for the 10th century. Yeah, exactly that. So they brought them together for an exhibition in Copenhagen a couple of years ago. Where we see that sense of settlement in England, let's talk about, but it's true all over the British Isles, is in the language, in the place names. That's where we see that that's not raiding. You don't bring over your language, you don't bring over your place names if you're just in and out and grabbing a reliquary in a gospel book in a couple of months. It's when you're settling, when you become part of that cultural landscape, that we start to see it embedded in the landscape, in the place names, in the words themselves.

23:18William Dalrymple:A lot of people will have heard of Danelaw, you know, the Danelaw, which was this area of Norse settlement. But, you know, what you found actually is that that wasn't the outline, It's a much more dotted outline. And, you know, that Norse settlement extends far beyond Danelaw. The interesting thing about the Danelaw, for a start, that word doesn't get used until a little bit later. I think, just, I mean, not crazily later, but sort of, I think it first starts appearing in maybe even the 11th century, something like that. But what we see is this partition. Now, the era of the great heathen army ends famously with the battles in the West between Gudhrum, who's one of the leaders, and Alfred of King Alfred the Great fame.

24:02And after their final battle, they come to a peace agreement where Gudhrum is going to be baptised. He's going to be given a Christian name and he's going to be sent off to rule East Anglia. But very crucially, Alfred stood in as his sponsor, his godfather, when he was baptised. And so Alfred is very much, should we say, he's got the upper hand, which helps. Now, they draw up a bit later a very famous peace agreement where they talk about the line that's going to separate their legal territories. And it's sort of this line that goes up through the Thames, up what's basically Watling Street. It's kind of going from southeast to northwest across the country.

24:44And north of that line or up from that line, that's what we think of as the Dane law. So it's the East Midlands, it's East Anglia, it's Yorkshire, it's Lincolnshire. And that's where we get this concentration of place names.

24:57Anita Anand:Are we thinking of it a bit like partition of India and Pakistan? Are the populations moving in different directions? I think there is definitely movement between. We have even in that agreement, they say things like, we won't harbour each other's slaves, for example, or we'll make sure that the amount of money, the wehrgeld for killing someone, is the same on both sides. And so it's not this sense of, here is a line, you will not cross it. And that's why that Christian element, that conversion of Gudrum, now Athelstan, is so important, because we need that sense of parity, that sense of movement.

25:34But on the other hand, in terms of settlement, yes, there There are Norse place names away from that line, but there's not many.

25:43William Dalrymple:So Eleanor, what I want to know is what place names here in Britain do we get directly from the Vikings? So obviously Twat. We're starting with Twat.

25:52Anita Anand:Always a good start. But it's a version of Thwaite, which we might be more familiar with from further south, sort of Yorkshire area. It means basically a meadow, a cleared area, something like that. And then you've got anything with a B-Y at the end. And Biu, that just means farm. So Grimsby, Whitby, Selby, Naseby, Darby, Crossby, Rugby. Thorpe. Thorpe. Yeah, so sort of Scunthorpe, that sort of thing. Again, it's those kind of farming areas, which is important. We think of Vikings reasonably as raiders, but here we are, have them as settlers and therefore farmers, and that's more important. We've all got personal names as well.

26:28Grimsby, Grimers Biu. Grimur is a name and it's his farm. Grimmsby is a really good example of it. So, yeah, but I mean, we can't not start with twat.

26:40Anita Anand:And then we also have, just to move on from twat without pausing, we're moving on to Dingwall in Scotland, which is the place for the parliament, the thingar. Dingwall, it's thingvatlur, the parliament or assembly planes. And if anyone's been to Iceland or if anyone is a geologist, they'll know Thingvetlir, which is the place in Iceland where they had the original parliament. I think it's 934. They establish it, making it the oldest continuous parliament anywhere in the world. And it's the place where the two tectonic plates are moving apart, hence the vetlir, the plains word. But yeah, we've got one in Scotland as well.

27:18Anita Anand:And Ness, that's another. Loch Ness as in Nessie is actually a Norse name, isn't it? Yeah, so Ness is another one. And there are a few like this where there's a sort of, There's a Norse version and there are other equivalents that do the rounds because these have really ancient origins. But yeah, it's very interesting that we have lots of our oldest water names and mountain names in the British Isles in particular are actually Britonic. They're from even before the Romans come. Because people don't change the names of rivers. They found a farm, but the river's always there. Exactly, exactly. But then you get this new and the interesting thing with some of these is that they are in parts of the British Isles that look more Nordic.

28:08Maybe we might say sort of more Norwegian in particular, you know, have the long fjords and the fells and the mountains. So where it gets more dramatic, we start to see some of these new layers coming into those place names.

28:20William Dalrymple:We haven't talked about Ireland, though, have we? I mean, you know, Waterford, Limerick, Wexford, Cork. I mean, how have the Vikings left their fingerprints all over these places? That's a really interesting one because, yeah, Dublin, Waterford, Limerick, yeah, as you say, Wexford, Cork, all those, they are established sort of properly. It's not that there's no one living there before, but they're established as these sort of Longfort, these ship camps in the ninth century. So that same era as the great heathen army. And then they become permanent trading settlements quite quickly, sort of within a generation or so.

28:51Some of these place names are very Irish, Celtic language elements. But sometimes you end up with Norse versions of those. So Dublin, Duflin, it's like the dark pool. And then you have a Norse version of that, Duflin, and then we have modern Dublin. But there are a few that are north. So I think Waterford, it's not quite clear. It might be something like Vedr Fjordr. So it's a sort of ram fjord, something like that, a weather. We get the same thing, Weatherby, you know, sheep farm, basically. Same thing. My favourite, and I really hope this is true, but this is my understanding, is Carlingford.

29:29So Kerlinger Fjordr. And a Kerling, a Kerling, is an old hag.

29:36Anita Anand:Nothing to do with the lager. No, weirdly, I kind of always assumed it was, but I think it's something to do with those three peaks. It's like the three nuns peaks, but you often have, they don't bother with nuns. They often have like the old woman, the old man, the hag, yeah, the troll. That's the sort of Nordic version of that. I also, I should say, I have a very personal connection to one of them, which is Hoth, which is that peninsula on the north side of Dublin, which is from old North Hoth, so it's like Head, basically. Apparently, my grandfather was conceived on that very peninsula on a wild night out once back in, I don't know, back in the 1920s or 30s.

30:12So that was his middle name. Did your granny tell you that lovely story?

30:17William Dalrymple:How do you know? They gave it a middle name. It was like, you know, like Brooklyn and Bethlehem sort of thing. It was obviously a good night. Your family gatherings have very different conversations to mine. It's just that sort of thinking.

30:28Anita Anand:Orkney is somewhere which I always grew up thinking of as being the most sort of Nordic of all the places in Scotland, where until, what, the 17th or 18th century, they spoke Norn, which was a kind of version of Norwegian. Yeah, exactly that. Exactly that. So Orkney and Shetland, so the Northern Isles, absolutely. Those are Nors. And they continue being Nors. So when we think of, you know, when is the end of the Viking Age? Well, we've got these important Norse settlements off the northern coast of mainland Scotland going into the 15th century. And exactly as you say, there's a form of Old Norse that's still the main language there until I think it's about 1800 or something like that.

31:08You see it in the place names. I mean, the most obvious example would be something like Kirkwall, which is on the mainland. And it's sort of where you have St Magnus Cathedral, very much a kind of Viking or at least Norse cathedral because of the... St. Magnus, yeah. And Kirkwall is just Kirkjewauger. It's the church bay, basically, after that. So, yeah, that's a very, very strong connection that keeps on going. And it's still part of that. You go to the airports at Kirkwall, you've still got runes that they've put over the top. So Kirkwall is pulled out in runes.

31:40Anita Anand:Brilliant.

31:41William Dalrymple:Eleanor, so, you know, with all of this settlement going on and displacement, if you like, of what was there before, What happens to the monasteries? I mean, wherever the Vikings go, the monasteries don't exist anymore. I mean, just give us an idea of what happens. You have the ones that suffer repeatedly early on. We've mentioned Iona and Lindisfarne and then Clon MacNoise and Quark and all the armour. But the interesting thing is that as Norse settlement becomes permanent, that relationship between the settlers and the surrounding community also changes. And of course, that surrounding community also includes the local religious communities.

32:20Anita Anand:We're going to be doing a lot more on the next episode. We're still holding out for zombies, but certainly going into mythology and all this amazing syncretism, which I did not grow up with at all. The idea that you get people preaching parallels between Christianity and the North Smiths, but that's for the next episode. But just give us an idea of how it pans out. By the 10th century, when these guys are settled, they've got the Dane law, what is left of the old Anglo-Saxon world and the old Pictish world? Yeah, so this is a really, so I mean, I'll leave the picts to Gordon, definitely. But it's not that this, so the problem is that we have this other layer that is much fainter, to mix my metaphors, a much fainter echo than the Norse stuff in terms of that pre-Christian religious belief and practice.

33:14because, of course, the Anglo-Saxons also came in as pagans and then they become Christianised. And so you're sort of seeing this rebooting of the same thing under the Norse. I already mentioned how Gudrum, one of these leaders of the great heathen army, is converted to Christianity and then is allowed to become king, very much an Anglo-Saxon king of East Anglia. If we look at his coins, we can see, you know, it's got his name on the coins, but they're absolutely Christian, Anglo-Saxon style coins. He's got a cross in the centre. But having said that, you've got some really interesting, slightly later examples where there are still hints of this syncretism.

33:52So there's a really good example of this from York. And this is, it's called the St. Peter's Pence. And it's a coin. And I think it's, I want to say like the early 10th century, something like that. And you have a Christian cross on it. It's very obviously Christian, but you've also got a little Thor's hammer just there, just put on there, just like worked into the lettering. And so it's a sense there that maybe this is about religious belief, but it's also saying something about cultural identity that's very important.

34:23William Dalrymple:We were talking about how Bath is one of those places that transfixes reluctant small people. And York is another one, Jorvik, because it is an absolutely fascinating and in-your-face synergy between cultures. Can you tell us a little more about Jorvik, York? Yeah, there is nothing like York. So Irfowicz, which is the old English name, becomes, as you say, Jorvik, the old Norse equivalent. There were these incredible excavations, the Coppergate excavations in the 70s and 80s. And what's really unusual about that is that they revealed this thriving urban settlement, which isn't typical. We think of typical or representative.

35:04It really isn't. It's so unusual in terms of its density, the complexity. We've got workshops producing amber and jets and antler. We've got metal objects. We've got evidence of long distance trading with Byzantium and the Islamic world and Scandinavia, of course you know so and we've got my absolute favorite and i'm sorry it's not horny zombies but i am going to bring down the tone because we can't not talk about the lloyd's bank coprolite which is the biggest fossilized human poo i think anywhere in the world and it is a chunky monkey it's over 20 centimeters long i think it's about five centimeters wide something like that and it's fascinating because it's one person's turd from Viking Age York it tells us that you know they were eating bread and meat they had a hell of a lot of intestinal worms my favorite fact about it is that about 20 years ago there was a school party visiting it the teacher was allowed to hold it dropped it and broke it into three pieces and so this yeah if you see it it's it's been glued

36:09William Dalrymple:back I have seen it I didn't really I didn't see the glue marks so I mean the thing is York York has done this so beautifully. I don't know whether we talked about this before, but when I took the kids, we went on that, you know, they excavated down to the Scandinavian sort of layer, you know, the Norse layer. And you go on this little train journey past these mannequins who are reliving, and it's meant to have sort of smell-o-vision, and you go through quite a whiffy little bit. I mean, it's brilliantly done, and considering it's really old, I mean, I don't know when they they did this when they built this but you you go down you are part of that world you hear the noises and then you learn about the the poop and um i mean it's all fabulous i think it's one of the best best places it's fantastic and it lasts so you know from the time of the great heathen army so i don't know about 866 and it comes and goes you know there are there's lots going on there but we get to the middle of the 10th century and that's when it's likely now the problem is he is swathed in the mists of historical mystery, but we don't quite know what's going on.

37:15But Erik Bloodaxe.

37:17Anita Anand:We haven't had Erik Bloodaxe. We've got to have Erik Bloodaxe.

37:21William Dalrymple:Who was he? Tell us, who is Erik Bloodaxe? Erik Bloodaxe is said to be the last Norse ruler. He's really shadowy. I think much more shadowy as a figure than people realise. He also appears in some of the Icelandic sagas, so Eil's saga in particular, where Eil ends up, they're terrible enemies. And there he's given this incredible wife, I think she's called Gunnhildr, and she's a magical practitioner. She transforms herself into a bird and sings at a window all night to stop Eil from composing the poetry that will save his life. So he's a figure that all sorts of amazing myths and legends spring up about.

38:00But it looks like he was a real person. And then he's killed at Stainmore out in the wilds, possibly fleeing from York, possibly fleeing to, not sure, but he's killed there. And so we then have it, I think, you know, reverting from Norse hands. But what's interesting is that the city that emerges from that good century of Norse rule is still absolutely there. We walk around, You know, there's Gudrum Gate, Gudrumsgata, gata means street. There's Mikkel Gate, big streets, Copper Gate, Koprigata, I think it's the...

38:35Anita Anand:Woodworkers. Woodworkers, yes. All the Norse names. So it's this sense that it is permanently transformed. It's not just those layers of archaeology that are in themselves so fascinating.

38:47William Dalrymple:You know, at the beginning, we were talking about what happened in Lindisfarne and the fact that the people fled, you know, the monks fled, their worshippers fled, and they carried with them the body of St. Cuthbert. We kind of have left them alone. I mean, how long have they been wandering around with this coffin and what happens to it eventually? Okay, so the community of St. Cuthbert is really, it's a remarkable story within this remarkable period. They don't immediately abandon Lindasvarn at all after that famous sack of 793. they stay for it's a good century after that nearly but then I think it's 875 there's more Norse pressure and so they leave we've got Cuthbert we've got the Lindisfarne Gospels I think we've got the relics you know various various saints relics as well you know so they're wandering around for several years they're moving through Northumbria Cumbria they're looking for somewhere safe to settle they you know they're at Chesterly Street for a while in County Durham and then about a century later, there's more threat.

39:49This time I think it's Danish. They move again and they finally settle in Durham in 995. And you think of Durham, it's the Bailey. It's almost completely surrounded by water, this huge, very defensible hill basically. And so that's where they settle. And so the Lindisfarne Gospels survive this and the relics survive, the community survive. It's only just, this is a remarkable survival. It was much more likely that that wouldn't happen, but it did.

40:19Anita Anand:It's all still there, isn't it? You go to Durham Cathedral, the pectoral cross, the fragments of the coffin, you can still see little incised images. It's wonderful. Ella, you described this catastrophe and it turns out to be much more complicated. What does the Viking impact on the sacred world of Britain and Ireland look like to you from the vantage point of a historian, leaving aside now all the zombies and everything else? When you think of it in your scholarly hat, what does it look like to you? I think it's not just one thing. I think it's about, yes, destruction, but also transformation.

40:57And it's really important that we're able to carry those two ideas together. So, you know, The destruction is real and we can't, as we said up top, we can't minimise what was lost at Iona and Lindisfarne, the lives, the culture. It was traumatic and that's really important to say in terms of how the communities experienced them. But then that later transformation is equally real. And so the world that emerged from the Viking Age, and we've got Norse Irish cities, we've got the Danish place names, we've got the Danelaw place names, we've got the Earldom, that Jardom on Orkney. It's richer and it's stranger and it's more various than I think we sometimes give it credit for because they are interacting with different people in so many different ways.

41:45And it's this idea that the islands in some ways sort of absorbed the Vikings, but in all these different flavours of what that looks like and what those interactions look like.

41:57Anita Anand:Thank you so, so much. Now we're going to stay with Eleanor, our wonderful guest, in the next episode. And we're going to look specifically at the Norse effect on the religion of the island. And this series is all about the gods and the transformations that take place with these different waves of migration. And this extraordinary world where you've now got the Vikings in York, all over Cumbria, all over what's now Scotland and much of Ireland. How does it affect the religious faith and the beliefs and the mythologies of the people in these islands? And we'll be back for that in the next episode.

42:38William Dalrymple:And if you can't wait, you know what to do. empirepoduk.com empirepoduk.com Join our club you get early access and loads more besides. Till the next time we meet it's goodbye from me Anita Arnand

42:51Anita Anand:And goodbye from me William Durrenpool

43:01Anita Anand:A quick word for our Empire listeners. For a limited time only we are running a discount on the Empire Club.

43:10William Dalrymple:We totally are. It's our summer sale. It's live now. And from now until the end of August, all you need to do is head to empirepoduk.com, empirepoduk.com. Use the code SUMMER26, SUMMER26, you get an extra 20 % of annual membership.

43:27Anita Anand:This sizzling summer, we would love you to join our Empire Club and we know you will love being a member of our community. You'll get bonus episodes, ad-free listening, early access to series and much more.

43:39William Dalrymple:And your summer trips provide you that perfect opportunity to dive into our archives and catch up on all the exclusive content you might have missed before joining. So you can listen to our interview with Yung Chang, our Willy's fabulous bonus on Vermeer's Girl with the Pearl Earring and our exclusive four-part member series covering the scandal that shaped partition.

44:02Anita Anand:So make the most of the deal before it ends at the end of August, 2026. The code is SUMMER26 to be used on our annual membership at empirepoduk.com. We'd love you to become a member of our club and it's brilliant even if we say so ourselves. Hey guys, this is Anthony Scaramucci for The Rest is Politics US. Caddy Kay and I want to tell you about our North American tour in October.

44:28William Dalrymple:Donald Trump is rewriting the history of the United States from trade wars to immigration crackdowns to global conflicts, we are here to make sense of all of it.

44:38Anita Anand:You know, we're in an era defined by depolarization and American institutions are breaking under Donald Trump. Cady and I will be live on stage breaking down what's really happening, sharing insider perspectives and answering your questions. This October, we're heading to Toronto, Boston, New York, Washington, D.C., a host of other American cities to get into all of the political action. We would love to see you there. Come and join us. So head to the restispoliticsus.com to get your tickets and come see us live.

From the publisher

Why did the Vikings invade Britain, and how did they mix into society? What did they do with the gold they stole from churches? Which Viking stereotypes are true - and which ones are total myths?

In Episode 5 of this series, Anita Anand and William Dalrymple are joined by Dr Eleanor Barraclough, author of Embers of the Hand, to discuss the dramatic arrival of the Vikings in Britain. They dismantle Viking stereotypes, and explore how the raiders reshaped British society.

Summer sale is here: get an annual Empire Club membership for an extra 20% off with code SUMMER26. That's ad-free listening, early-access, every bonus episode, and full access to our exclusive members' series. Sale ends August 31st, so grab it before summer's over.

 

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