Jay Rayner: Why Trying to Be Liked Is a Recipe for Failure

4 Sep 2026 · 59 min · 31 chapters

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In short

Jay Rayner discusses why seeking approval (“trying to be liked”) leads to failure, using his life story and career as a restaurant critic/journalist. He connects food to journalism, culture, politics, and supply chains, and also argues that UK food sustainability is fragile due to policy choices including Brexit and heatwave conditions.

Guests

Jay Rayner is the main guest. He is a long-running restaurant critic (26 years at The Observer, later Financial Times), broadcaster (Radio 4’s The Kitchen Cabinet), author, and former diary/feature journalist. The host is not named in the transcript.

Key claims

Rayner says he stayed successful by loving the work rather than chasing approval; he treats restaurant reviewing as journalism with “first principles.” He argues food is a “knotty subject” that covers environment, politics, history, and memory. He claims the UK’s food supply chain has fallen from high self-sufficiency levels to around 50%, making it vulnerable to shocks.

Notable examples

childhood oyster trip to Rules; expelled from a posh school for cannabis (headline news); he shredded/removed old cuttings about it when applying for jobs; his first FT/Observer restaurant-review approach using photos; Brexit/heatwave “perfect storm”; reverse-engineering dishes with chef permission (e.g., baklava taught by Syrian refugee Gofran Hamza; Hong Kong takeaway chef Pui Sung in Reading).

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

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A Life in Food Criticism

1:10 to 2:35

Jay shares his journey as a restaurant critic and his love for food.

“You have one of those multi-leaved business cards.”

Growing Up in a Famous Family

2:35 to 3:37

Jay reflects on his upbringing with famous parents and the impact it had on him.

“The reason I've been able to do it for that ridiculous length of time is that I still love restaurants.”

Evolving Perceptions of Fame

3:37 to 4:34

Discussion on Jay's realization of his mother's fame and its effects.

“I think I was less skilled at being a child than at being an adult.”

Understanding Family Legacy

4:34 to 6:40

Jay reveals insights into his family background and their influence on him.

“I mean, I'm of an age where I was familiar with her growing up.”

The Complexity of Parental Relationships

6:40 to 7:45

Exploration of Jay's relationship with his parents and their respective legacies.

“My paternal grandparents lived, I think it's called the Hallfield Estate over in Paddington.”

The Path to Journalism

7:45 to 8:53

Jay discusses his early interest in journalism and its impact on his career.

“Her maiden name by the time Des married her was Chetwynd.”

Familiarity with the Industry

8:53 to 14:01

Jay reflects on growing up in the journalism world and its accessibility.

“grandparents, that was at the age of 15 and she never saw them again and I never met them I've often wondered what the qualifications are to be an agony aunt.”

The Influence of Family Background on Career

14:01 to 14:15

Explore how Jay Rayner's upbringing shaped his career aspirations.

“Quite long obviously quite big for the Telegraph.”

School Experience and Early Challenges

14:16 to 16:14

Jay shares his struggles and challenges during his school years.

“I've always said, actually, that if you looked at my parents between them, a lot of careers that other people might see as unobtainable, to me, were completely obtainable because they were what they did.”

The Incident That Made Headlines

16:15 to 18:02

A candid recount of the event that led to Jay's expulsion and media attention.

“It was sold by, the story was sold by two, in quotes, friends of mine at school, and they only got 150 quid out of the Daily Mail for it.”
Show all 31 chapters

The Journey into Journalism

18:03 to 19:08

Jay discusses his transition into journalism and early experiences.

“the nationals were all trying to grab readers when they were students because they thought they'd have them for life.”

Parental Reactions to Expulsion

19:09 to 20:31

A deep dive into how Jay's parents reacted to his expulsion and its implications.

“for cannabis, not suspended, I expelled him because Oh, you're one step above me.”

Growing Up in a Unique Environment

20:32 to 22:26

Jay reflects on the diverse and open environment he grew up in due to his mother's career.

“Right, so there were a thousand letters a week that came in through a PO box, and they were all answered.”

Impact of Parents' Careers on Perspectives

22:27 to 24:28

Discussion on how Jay's parents' careers shaped his worldview and understanding of society.

“And the main way that I got involved was that occasionally if she had an issue which she thought was a little more universal, as in there would be more people who would have that issue.”

Choosing Journalism as a Path

24:29 to 26:48

Exploration of Jay's decision to pursue journalism and his motivations.

“Ahead of its time sounds a bit glib, but it was a very, very rare environment that you grew up in as a child with two happily married, as you say, sort of monogamous, lifelong, faithful parents living in such a modern...”

Mischief and Competition in Student Journalism

26:49 to 28:01

Jay shares stories of mischief and rivalry during his time in student journalism.

“I reckoned at the time that it was probably the greatest power I'd ever have as a newspaper person.”

The Careerist Perspective

28:01 to 29:25

Jay discusses the perception of careerism and his early experiences in journalism.

“Well, look, there was one thing which was people who accused you of being a careerist.”

Early Days as a Diary Columnist

29:26 to 32:33

Jay shares his journey from a young reporter to becoming a diary columnist, highlighting key experiences and lessons learned.

“And I wrote, it was a researcher, I did a property use for him.”

Transitioning in Journalism

32:34 to 33:51

Jay describes his move from the Observer to freelance work, and the challenges he faced in his early writing career.

“And it became the week after my last Observer column ran, it was the front of the second section of The Guardian.”

Food as a Cultural Subject

33:51 to 39:20

Jay explains the significance of food in journalism and its connections to culture, politics, and history.

“If I'd met you then and said, what do you want to be doing in 10 years' time, what would you have said?”

The Impact of Brexit on Food Supply

39:21 to 42:00

Jay discusses the implications of Brexit on food sustainability and the current state of food supply chains.

The Crisis in Food Sustainability

42:00 to 43:02

Explore the declining state of food sustainability in the UK, driven by various factors including Brexit.

“A lot of which we're actually seeing the end result of right now.”

Stories Behind Recipes

43:02 to 44:43

Learn about the storytelling element in Jay Rayner's approach to food writing and his unique recipe presentation.

“It's all of these things that might make you look like a dilettante.”

The Role of Photography in Cookbooks

44:43 to 46:01

Discover Jay Rayner's thoughts on food photography in cookbooks and his innovative use of QR codes for visuals.

“One, because I do love certain full-colour cookbooks.”

Broadcasting and Enjoyment

46:01 to 47:45

Understand the connection between enjoyment and broadcasting in Jay Rayner's shows and the effort behind appearing spontaneous.

“Well, now the main thing I do is a show called The Kitchen Cabinet.”

The Journey of Recipe Development

48:16 to 54:08

Explore Jay Rayner's process of publishing his own recipes and the stories behind them, including unique culinary experiences.

“And one of them was a takeaway in Reading called Good Old Days Hong Kong, where the chef, Pui Sung, was previously one of the senior chefs at the Jockey Club in Hong Kong.”

Critique and Audience Reception

54:08 to 55:17

Delve into the challenges of food criticism, audience expectations, and the impact of negative reviews in the food industry.

“Do you have a reader in mind when you write?”

Curiosity and Adaptability in Writing

55:17 to 56:05

Discuss Jay Rayner's evolving career and how his curiosity drives his writing and exploration of new topics.

The Challenges of Fame in Journalism

56:05 to 57:44

Jay Rayner discusses the challenges of interviewing people as a well-known journalist.

“And I stayed there all day and would sit down with the punters, you know, having their full English and their cup of tea, and I'd want to interview them.”

Transitioning from Observer to FT

57:45 to 59:06

Rayner reflects on his career move from the Observer to the Financial Times.

“hack to hack, the move from Observer to the FT, I don't know how interested other people will be in this, but was it a pleasant leap?”

Ambitions and Future Plans

59:06 to 59:56

Rayner shares his thoughts on ambition and future writing projects.

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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00Who says Halloween only lasts one day? With Wayfair, one night of Halloween becomes a whole season at home. From larger-than-life yard decor and moody lighting, to festive accents for every room in the house, Wayfair has what you need to make Halloween feel like magic all in one place. Because the best Halloween memories aren't made in just one night. They're made all season long. Shop Halloween decor now at Wayfair.com. Wayfair, every style, every home. This is a global production. I didn't go to Paris to review a Michelin 3 star to make a name for myself, but by God it did. It was of imposter syndrome in a way, isn't it?

0:40I knew what I was going to do and I knew it was going to have an impact. When did you become aware of that? When did you realise your mum was famous? They threw me out for four months and it became headline news. No, I'm sorry, you should have been allowed the right to screw up in private. You know, when people say check your privilege, I've checked mine and I've got loads, isn't that great? And as I went into these newspaper groups, I pulled the files on myself and I removed them. Did you really? Yeah.

1:09Jay Rayner, welcome. It's a delight to be here. You have one of those multi-leaved business cards. Journalist, broadcaster, author, bon vivant. It's not a portfolio, it's a filing cabinet. Musician, all of that. And that's just latterly as well, of course. if we go back far enough, there's even more on the list. I presume you've had lunch. I have had lunch. The offices of Global are, of course, just down from Chinatown. And there's a particular place on Gerrard Street, which is a confusing street. I mean, I look at all the people wondering, trying to work out where to go, and I think you have my sympathies because there's a whole bunch of places I know nothing about.

1:45But there is a restaurant called Four Seasons. In fact, there are two of them side by side. Don't go in the one on the right. Nobody knows what happens in there. The one on the left does very good Cantonese roast meats. And I go and I sit there by myself with a magazine to read or my phone and eat Cantonese roast meats and some morning glory. No rice because I try to avoid the carbs because of Anno Domini. And then it was a short stride to hear. And your joy in those moments is undimmed by the lengthy exposure to fun. I mean, it is pathetic, I sometimes think, that I still enjoy these things. And I think actually when it comes down to it, that's why I have been doing the main job that I'm known for, which is as a restaurant critic for The Observer for 26 years and now for the Financial Times for another two.

2:35The reason I've been able to do it for that ridiculous length of time is that I still love restaurants. I am also a man of appetites. It's a love that started young. yeah I think the interesting story is that both my parents were working class kids from very meager east end Jewish backgrounds and they did very well for themselves my mother Claire became a very successful agony art journalist broadcaster and one of the interesting things I think in the late 60s early 70s was journalism as an airlock through which bright working class kids could move up socially in the world and part of that was being introduced to restaurants and she loved them my father less so he never really felt comfortable in them but my mother loved them and she introduced me to them i mean i remember a particular thing when i was like 10 years old being taken to rules just her and me it was a day when she'd take took me out to see the offices she worked in the offices of the sun and women's own these great publications and uh the first time i got to eat oysters sitting next to my dear old mum um and just thought wow the adult world this is quite It's precocious, isn't it?

3:40Oh, it's disgusting, yes. That's lovely. It is precocious. I think I was less skilled at being a child than at being an adult. I was waiting for childhood to be finished. I like that. And you chose rules, of course, for your first column in your new birth at the FT. It seemed like an obvious choice. It was a lovely piece. You need first principles. Who am I and what am I about? You've got a moment, 980 words in which to introduce yourself to a new readership. And I thought, I can do it through this. I have history and I haven't actually ever written a review of rules. And you leave, I've just come up with a line that you'll probably object to.

4:22I was thinking you don't leave much on the plate, but you do leave a lot of yourself on the page. Up to a point. It's a version of me. I think all columnists do that. All writers do that. We create a version which is very close. But I could see your mum in Rules. I mean, I'm of an age where I was familiar with her growing up. And I mean, she was ubiquitous at some points, it seemed. I could feel your mum in your review of a restaurant. Well, I think the thing is that at the point when Claire was on television, there were only three and then four channels. Yes, that's true. So if you were on telly, 10 million people saw you because you had nothing else to watch.

5:00and so if you ever catch those clips of you know um a night with that ITV used to do and it's Les Dawson whatever and they cut to the audience and it's full of celebrities all of them are there that's all there was that's literally all there was enough to fill the seats and their partners and she was part of that group um when did you become aware of that when did you realize your mum was famous i actually think it was i always knew it did you so i i i said once that claire fell famous in 19 did you call her claire i mean no i didn't know you called her mummy no i well do you want the full story yes i do okay so um up to a certain age i called her mummy yeah uh as a small child and then she and my sister did the same and she was seven years older and eventually my mother said this this is this can't go on for anyone this is ridiculous and she wanted us to choose other names now famously my mother would get lost on occasion or be late particularly be late coming downstairs and my father des took to standing at the bottom of the stairs and he chose the ugliest name he could think of to shout up the stairs and he shouted and she was known in the family as ada okay adrian diz um and some people found it slightly over from about the age of 10 i called her ada that's nice um all the way until the end when um we'll talk a bit more about her because i mostly because i'm fascinated but when you use the word meager to describe ada and desi's childhoods how did you become aware of that meagerness I think it was gently dawning.

6:45My paternal grandparents lived, I think it's called the Hallfield Estate over in Paddington. I wasn't very fond of them, but Des. Why not? They weren't very nice people. Fair enough. They were cross and angry most of the time, and they guilt-tripped my old dad a lot, but he still felt it necessary to take us there once every couple of weeks. And that was a small council flat. And it was clear that they had come from the East End and that was a step up. And I think a lot of Desi's guilt was to do with that. He looked after them and he made sure they were right. But there was a lot of that. Claire, I never knew my maternal grandparents.

7:26Claire always said that they were, her line was, if I had a turn bob note, my father would steal it from me and my mother would find a way to get it out of me emotionally. Good Lord. They're both crooks, was her view. So she shook the dust from her sandals when she left home. It's a more extraordinary story. They ended up, he was always on the run. Her maiden name by the time Des married her was Chetwynd. And that name was chosen by my grandfather, who was a resourceful chap. He'd moved the whole family. I think it was to Gloucestershire. I sometimes get the counties wrong. But it was the middle of the Second World War.

8:03And he chose the name of the local aristocracy on the grounds that nobody would question why a man from the local aristocracy was not in the forces. So he became Chetwind. And it worked. But it meant that this very Jewish family had this very Anglo surname, bizarrely Anglo surname. They moved to Canada. She fell very ill. She had a thyroid complaint, ended up in an insane asylum as a result of this. Her parents never once came to see her. And a resourceful doctor said, you need treatment, and we've got to get you out of Canada. on the Cunard line they have to take you free of charge if they brought you here and then you are marked insane so we'll stamp your passport insane, you'll be deported insane back to the UK and that's what happened into the care of her aunt and uncle, my great aunt and uncle Max Muriel who became a kind of surrogate grandparents, that was at the age of 15 and she never saw them again and I never met them I've often wondered what the qualifications are to be an agony aunt.

9:05A bit of trauma helps. Well, I suppose it gives you an extraordinary... Well, it's an interesting question. You know, I'm... She was kind of the first, in a way. Well, not really. No, I know. Marge was ahead, and you can say that Daniel Defoe wrote one in the 18th century. There were a lot of them, but she was certainly one of the key ones. She came from a nursing background. nursing provided her with the security that she needed. And so she did have a medical background, which a lot of them don't. But there are other things, you know. I'm 60 now, and you see your parents as adults, don't you?

9:45And I know that, I always thought this was interesting. This is probably more detail than anybody wants to hear from a son about their mother. I know that Des was her first and only lover. Right, okay. And yet she became a great expert on sex and human relationships, which suggests to me a vastly inquisitive mind. I was going to say that the curiosity must be the key to that. Yes, absolutely. And a desire to help people. Oh, yeah, an absolute desire. She was nosy. She was fascinated in relationships which helped with the novels that she wrote. But not to the exclusion of the people closest to her.

10:21Sometimes, I don't think at least, but sometimes people who belong to the world can sometimes feel a bit distant from those technically closest to them. I don't get that sense. Oh, no, no, no. No, there wasn't. I mean, she did try to keep certain things hidden. Sure. That story, I've told you a lot of it I didn't know until I was in my 20s. Okay. In fact, possibly older. She wrote her memoirs. She wasn't going to. And then she found out that somebody was writing an unauthorized volume and she was furious. So she decided to write her own. And that's where I got most of the story. So it's a warm and happy home.

10:52Oh, yeah. Yeah. With a bit of... My dad was a depressive. I think he loved his depression. It's a very flippant way to put it, but I think he did nurture it in a certain way. So there was that hanging over it. But it was, yeah, it was a warm home. And what about food at home? Was it a big deal, a big part of the... Well, it was. We were a noisy North West London Jewish family. The very first line I ever wrote as a student journalist, I decided when I was about 15, I was lucky in that I worked out I wanted to be a journalist. And I chose my student, the university, because it had the biggest student paper in the country, Leeds.

11:27And I wrote a particular line, I am a Jew by food, I worship at my mother's fridge. And I looked at the line, I was 19 when I wrote it, and I thought, oh, hang on, there might be something here. I'd been an editor at that point, I was trying to find my voice as a writer, but it was true as well. Jews communicate through food. We sit at the table, we talk, we talk over food and at food and we interrogate food. And, you know, the old Jackie Mason joke, non-Jews come out of the theater and go, do you want to drink? And the Jews come out and go, what are we going to eat? So, yeah, but that's the curious thing is the real impact of my mother was wanting to be a journalist.

12:07Right. Every day, three or four newspapers came into the house and we were each given one to read over breakfast, I think because she didn't really want to talk to us. and I got the Daily Mail and there was a, well maybe I chose it but there was a column in there called Dermot Pergavy's America which was a miscellany column by a man with a fantastic name Dermot Pergavy if you're going to have a byline and it was just stories from across the states and I read it every day and I eventually concluded gosh, to be able to write this stuff you have to know this stuff and to know this stuff you have to see it and bit by bit I concluded that I would be fascinated by the life of a journalist and that really was, because Claire was a journalist, and I was introduced to great tabloid editors, to the great newsmen, they were mostly men of Fleet Street and I liked them I liked their company.

13:01And were you comfortable and confident in their company? I was a bit precocious in that way, I mean look you know when people say check your privilege, I've checked mine and I've got loads, isn't that great? I was from a very comfortable middle class background i was articulate i understood how the business worked i mean there were occasions in my teens in the old days when you had to read copy over to copy takers claire was busy and she would hand it to me so my probably my first interaction with national papers was reading my mother's copy to copy takers yeah um comma new paragraph yeah at the old line this happened more when when i became a general journalist because i was totally a general journalist for the first I don't know 13, 14 years when you're calling copy takers and you hear them say is there much more of this?

13:50I got in just at the end of that. I don't think I only ever did it twice but my dad who was on the Telegraph it was the background to Saturdays at home was because he was filing for the Sunday Telegraph and we'd always hear that. Quite long obviously quite big for the Telegraph. They're big old articles It takes a while to file 2 ,000 words to copy takers. It just does So you wouldn't have had any kind of sense that this was too rarefied a world. I mean, it was the world you grew up in. Oh, no. No, absolutely. I've always said, actually, that if you looked at my parents between them, a lot of careers that other people might see as unobtainable, to me, were completely obtainable because they were what they did.

14:28So on my mother's side, she was a novelist. She wrote nonfiction books. She was a broadcaster on radio and TV. She was a journalist. And she was also, and you can put it in another bracket over here, a famous person des my father had trained as an actor at the guild hall he was in tony quail's first uh company at stratford the precursor of the rsc and various other things uh he became a painter a very fine painter even if he didn't ever feel he got the acknowledgement he deserved um and he was her agent um discussions of book contracts went on across the table so all of these things these very attractive possibilities were present in my life and their friends were actors broadcasters were that crowd from you know sitting in the audience in the 1970s

15:24so what about away from family what were you like at school what do you remember about school did Well, the key thing to, and there are overlapping stories, I wasn't very good. I was sent to, not really. I was sent to a fee-paying school, Haberdasher's School for Boys, Elstery, which turned out a lot of comedians, Sacha Baron Cohen, Dave Bediel, Matt Lucas, all of those. But I was always seen as a bit of a dullard. There's a particular teacher, his name's Michael Lompier, who told me that I could not work on the school magazine because it was only for people. you're quite enjoying me actually taking the moment to name him I've made it my life's work I think you should harbour a graduate I could not work on the school magazine because it was only for people with a realistic prospect of working in journalism that's brutal so you, Michael Lombry, I've never been able to find him, always wanted to tell him and then sort of most famously and it was famous because of who my mother was, I was thrown out of school for getting very stoned at an after party for the school play and they threw me out for four months and it became headline oh what was that like again it was quite formative yes um i mean i i suppose it was sort of traumatic but actually when i look back on it i think it was interesting there was a particular time i went off with a a friend to an to a party overnight and we'd heard that something was going to break in the Sundays and we bought every single paper and I turned every page of every Sunday paper looking to see if I was in that I wasn't as it happened but that stuck with me a few years later when that became part of my job as a young journalist when you were told here go through the papers make a list um it did result in various headlines and here's the kicker when I who's 16 I was 16 17 when that happened okay and so there were it was front page on the standard and on those stands that used to be on the street.

17:27Claire Rayner's sonics. Agony of Agony Art. Right. Agony of Agony Art. That's a good headline. Yeah. Do you know what was infuriating? It was sold by, the story was sold by two, in quotes, friends of mine at school, and they only got 150 quid out of the Daily Mail for it. Even then, it was nothing. That's more than infuriating, Jay. That's a betrayal. It was a betrayal. And beautifully, they've constantly tried to apologise over the years. Look, look. You know, life moves on. You just have to deal with that one. But there is a kicker, I have to tell you this, because you will like this story. After I'd been the editor of the student paper, one of the interesting things was in the late 80s, the nationals were all trying to grab readers when they were students because they thought they'd have them for life.

18:12And so they were launching student supplements. And every one of us who'd been the editor of a big student paper got the call. So I worked my way around the student supplements of the Independent, the Observer, the Telegraph, Time Out, whatever. And as I went into these newspaper groups, I went down, desperate to make sure that nobody made the connection between this dodgy past. And I went down to the old print newspaper cuttings libraries, and I pulled the files on myself, and I removed them. Did you really? Yeah. Straight in the bin? Straight in the shredder? No, I took them home. Or did you keep them home?

18:43I've got a copy. I did eventually write about it for The Guardian in 93 or 94 but by that point it was on my terms and I already I think by then, sorry it's going to sound terribly grand, I'd won Young Journalist of the Year in the British Press Awards so I didn't need to worry so much For younger people listening we should probably establish why you did that because it doesn't I got expelled from Ampleforth in 1990 for cannabis, not suspended, I expelled him because Oh, you're one step above me. Well, it was a posher school, so that made the news because of the school. Jesuits were involved, weren't they?

19:19Benedictines. Benedictines, old boy. Benedictines. But that made the news because the school was very posh. Right. And boarding and public school. But it's hard for my kids to understand how anyone can get into trouble for weed. But it was a proper stigma, and that's why you wanted to destroy the evidence of it, because you thought that... I just didn't want any editor who was thinking to employ me to kind of cross this. Exactly, yeah. I wanted to find out. Well, it wouldn't matter now. It wouldn't matter. Well, it wouldn't get reported now if you were 16. I don't think they'd be... I don't know.

19:47Maybe not. I think if the... Just as an example, if the child of a prime minister or cabinet minister was sanctioned for any kind of narcotic use, yeah, now that would... Maybe. Well, actually, I don't know, because there are certain rules now about... Yeah, I think there are. There are age limits. But anyway, too late to save you. How did mum and dad respond to it? Actually, do you know what? Just as a fellow, someone who's been through something very similar, how did you tell them? I didn't really need to did I because the school phoned them they'd been on the blower already basically there were a lot of people who were fingered for this most of them coughed and they got one week and I decided to hold out I'm not entirely sure why and they eventually claimed they had a witness and I crumbled my dad was furious I think there was an element and it was put to me like this but with some guilt that would come later on their part which was that this very affluent lifestyle that we had was built on Claire's reputation and that what I had done put that at risk but then shortly after that my old mum reeled back from that very heavily and said no I'm sorry you should have been allowed the right to screw up in private and I took that from you so she was very sympathetic and I remember her telling me that at which point I then said it was a fantastic party and she said I bet it was what an amazing thing for her to have done though well I mean she understood it was right I know but still that doesn't mean that they're going to do it you know I am aware not in the same way but I have a forward facing life people recognise you are DTV or whatever and I am aware that that can have implications for the people around you and you have to be careful with that they didn't sign up for it necessarily they've been dragged along in the slipstream of it and she had clocked it early I don't know what she would have made of the age of social media no she would have found it I think quite complicated well it is yeah just the final bit on your mum I think that involvement in the envelopes coming through the letterbox I mean you got you would be involved in her work.

22:05Oh, do you mean the letters? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Right, so there were a thousand letters a week that came in through a PO box, and they were all answered. The most significant difference between the problem page or agony column of the 70s and 80s, and now, now, the only one that gets answered is the one that's answered on the page. Right, yes. Whereas Claire answered every single one. And the main way that I got involved was that occasionally if she had an issue which she thought was a little more universal, as in there would be more people who would have that issue. For example, premature ejaculation or the menopause or a specific one, married couples and their love lives have died off.

22:46She would offer a leaflet, partly brackets. My dad had done a deal where he'd worked out it was quite profitable to handle all this. And we could get 15 ,000 requests for this leaflet. They would come in sacks. The envelopes had to be opened. The covering letter read to see if there was anything else that he'd be dealing with. and then the envelopes the stamp collection envelopes filled with perfect pocket money job for a 10 year old and i was you know i could recognize the symptoms of of the menopause at 50 paces as a 10 year old i knew uses for natural yogurt had nothing to do with dinner thank you anytime did it have any deeper impacts because i mean was it a cringe-free childhood then i mean because some people would cringe now at the thought of their mother talking about any of this stuff but no i i it was cringe-free yeah and actually i rather reveled in the fact that some people were uncomfortable with it i liked their discomfort one of the things that it did bring was a genuine sense of the multiplicity of human experience there were gay and lesbian people around my life trans people around my life from a very early age and sexuality and who you want to love and who you want to have physical relationships with were, it was just part of the world.

24:05And I'd been introduced to that from a very young age. And indeed, I remember actually thinking, whichever point it was, when gay marriage was legalized, being absolutely baffled that it had taken that long. It felt like a very long time. And, you know, really, many of my parents' closest friends were gay and it just seemed so odd to me that this was ever an issue. It was quite a... Ahead of its time sounds a bit glib, but it was a very, very rare environment that you grew up in as a child with two happily married, as you say, sort of monogamous, lifelong, faithful parents living in such a modern...

24:46Well, up to a point, because actually I see it within the context of that phrase showbiz. of people who were actors, people who were broadcasters. Do we call them the demimonde, my dear? And it was very much part of the world in which I moved. So it didn't seem that extraordinary to me. And yet she maintained an ability to connect with the ordinary as well, with the absolute normal people. Yes, no, she absolutely did. She had that touch. So you've settled on journalism. Yeah. And again, it's sort of quite calculating in a good way. You work out that Leeds is the biggest. It has the biggest student newspaper in the country.

25:32At that point, it covered, it was called Leeds Student. They changed the name to The Griffin a few years ago, which is a terrible thing to do. It just makes it sound like something out of Slytherin or, you know, Hufflepuff. The editorship was a full-time job. You got paid and you had to be elected. But this informed your decision to go to Leeds. Yes. That's interesting. Yeah, it had a good politics department. I wanted to do politics. But it was very much the fact that the paper looked like a proper paper and you had to be elected. Right. And I'll kind of make this the last reference to my mother, maybe.

26:03But it was, I got into my head that if I could get elected, then I would never have been accused again of having gone into journalism through nepotism. You sweet summer child. Yeah, because students are cynical types. Didn't make the slightest bit of difference. And it would take me another 20 years to come up the line with the line, which was, God knows, you know, why having a mother who was an expert in premature ejaculation could get you a job on MasterChef. I fully acknowledge that all the things I've talked about, you know, the idea of access to these careers was there. Sure. But I don't think.

26:44Well, getting elected is a big deal. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. There's no, you know. And it was a great, it was an extraordinary thing to do, putting out a weekly paper with a circulation of 25 ,000. I reckoned at the time that it was probably the greatest power I'd ever have as a newspaper person. I think that's probably true. What did you bring to it? What were you good at? I was very good at a campaign. I remember there was one point when funding was being challenged and I ran the front page completely blank with just the words in 12 point in the middle you'll have less than this to read on Fridays if the university gets its way put the front page on the back, that was good I was threatened with a libel action because by the music college because they had banned the lesbian and gay songs it's like there's a theme here and we ran a lot of stuff and they threatened to sue me.

27:41I remember seeing that on a billboard. I was good at features as well, you know, at working out what would be readable on a Friday. So very conscious not just of what journalism could do for you but what journalism could do for the world. I think you had to. Not everybody is. Well, look, there was one thing which was people who accused you of being a careerist. I'd go, yeah, I am a careerist. I want my career to be in this. And that's why I'm going to be as good at it as I possibly can. And the greatest judgment... It's a weird thing, careerist. Isn't it? Oh, you're a careerist. You come to university and you set your sights on a career.

28:18You silly boy. How shocking. How foolish of you to do that. But also, you had to do the job properly. One of the things that still makes me laugh, there was competition between student papers, particularly between the Leeds paper and Mancuny and the Manchester University paper. and I used to send a reporter over to cover Manchester University demos just to freak out the Mancunian staff because they'd say, what are you doing? He'd say, oh, we cover everything. So a sense of mischief as well. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. You had to have mischief. And you needed that on one of your first jobs on a national when you were at the Observer and the Diary Columnist.

29:01Yes. So I'd gone all the way around the nationals Very quick. So what were you doing? Like six months? Oh, no, like six weeks. Oh, okay. And then starting to offer features. I worked for a tabloid press agency and wrote features for the Mirror and the Express. And then I was introduced to someone, a chap called Nick Wapshot, who was launching the first tabloid section of a national broadsheet. It was actually just for the London area on the back of the property boom in 1988. So you're looking for a birth? I was, sort of. Yeah. And I wrote, it was a researcher, I did a property use for him. At the launch party, he said, what do you think of our new baby?

29:40And I said, in the precocious way of a 21-year-old, oh, it's great, but it's got the worst diary column I've ever read. It was terrible. And he sacked, two weeks later, he sacked the person who was 20 years my senior and gave the job to me. I only did it for four months, but I would recommend, well, it's a different world, so it's possibly stupid to try and recommend anything to anyone now. but at that time being a diary columnist was a brilliant job because you had to find small stories um things that would become a story and i went to parties i barely you know bought any food myself because i lived on canapes and champagne um and had an awful lot of fun i just how i got in as well that was my early which diary was on hickey at the express well you know what i mean it just is yeah yeah yeah and it's it's it's a very hungry thing a diary column and sometimes you get a story that goes further or whatever.

30:32Why was it only four months? So the kicker was they did an episode they did an edition from New York to celebrate the election of Bush 1 and the editor said you can go if you can get a free plane ticket so I called Virgin who just launched that service and I said I'll give you a credit on the page they flew me up a class I was 22 and I got on the plane and sitting at the front of for Economy were three nuns. Three nuns flying virgin. My job was done. So I went off to New York. I had a high old time, met Quentin, Chris, interviewed Sammy Davis Jr. I mean, just amazing things happened. But while I was there, I got a call from the deputy editor to say, got your column.

31:14It's fine. By the way, Nick's moved. He's going to be the political editor. And there's a new editor. And I had two thoughts. One had been dawning for a long time. This was too fast. I was 21, 22. and I reckoned that if the career was worth having, if I resigned and went freelance, I could do it again and I should. And honestly, people around me thought I was mad. Wow. But I honestly thought that. And the other one was, also, I'm going to be sued at some point because I don't know what I'm doing. Right. And I am the protege of somebody who's moved on. Okay. So you'd have felt safer if never. I flew back to New York, went straight to the office and resigned to the new editor.

31:57This is the opposite of imposter syndrome in a way, isn't it? No, it's literally imposter syndrome. No, it's not. It's not because you weren't pushing forward and trying to overcome and bullshit your way through. You thought I shouldn't bullshit my way through. I thought I shouldn't bullshit. I also thought, but that thing, if I can do this, I could do it again. Yeah. If I'm any good. as it happened that interview with sammy davis jr i'd happened to land it while i was there by accident i hadn't told them i had it and as i was coming to the end of my observer thing of just like one week a pr said there's a chap at the guardian who likes your stuff and i called him up his name was roger alton he would go on to be editor with the observer and i called roger and said i hear you like my comment yeah he had a terrible phone manner he said yeah what do you want to do i said I've got an interview with Sammy Davis Jr.

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32:48He went, fine, 1800 words, Friday. And it became the week after my last Observer column ran, it was the front of the second section of The Guardian. And, yeah. I love this stuff. What stuff would Roger have liked? When you were told he liked your stuff, what would he have seen? Well, I hope the mischief. There was a certain mischief in... Yeah. There was a bit of... But in the diary column. Yeah. Right, OK. A bit of normative determinism going on. Private eye-esque stuff. Please don't ask me to remember any of the stories that I wrote in 1988. But you've done enough for him to sort of think, hello, there's something a bit, which is worth a look in.

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33:54If I'd met you then and said, what do you want to be doing in 10 years' time, what would you have said? I thought I was going to be, well, I became. I actually got there, which was to be a sort of investigative long-form feature writer. Right. I did a lot of that sort of stuff. At one point, I was thrilled. I was denoted or threatened with a denotis for trespassing on matters of national security there was a story I did about a gun running plot by the UDF at the height of the troubles which resulted of me being named as an MI5 stooge in a particular hard left book which made me conclude I'd been doing something right I did a lot of foreign stuff covered do you remember the case of the Danish tour guide who was killed by three, murdered by three British bodies in Cyprus.

34:44So I was sent to Cyprus to cover that. I did a lot of that sort of quite hard-nosed journalism. First with The Guardian, then, interestingly, for The Mail on Sunday, and then I went to The Observer, where I did everything. I was sometimes the write-through guy who would sit and bring together everybody's writing on the feature of the day as we ran it across the front. I did a lot of news. I did a lot of features. and I deputized on every column, including the restaurant column. Do you see what I've done there? I do see what you've done there, which leads us in extra. Before that, though, very, very inky fingers.

35:20I mean, proper newspaper man in a way that people who are familiar with you from the TV or the radio and exclusively through the food wouldn't appreciate. Quite possibly. I loved it. Yes. I loved a deadline. I loved the feeling of a newsroom. I was never the absolute hard news person but I could be and they knew that and it was one of the hilarious things in the dog days of my observer time that they all knew that they could still have sent me to the Bailey to cover a murder and I could have done it even though by then I was all over MasterChef and writing restaurant reviews and cookbooks and all of that So you deputised for the food critic?

36:03I did it once I went out for lunch with the editor of the Observer magazine. It was then a woman called Cheryl Garrett who had been editor of The Face. And she asked me who I thought she should get to replace the outgoing. And I just put my hand up. It had not been my intention. It had genuinely, it was never my ambition. I get emails probably 50, 60, a year from people saying I would like to be a restaurant critic just like you. That was never my intention. But I just, I was very tired. I'd been the news focus guy on the OBS, having to turn around two and a half thousand words from a Wednesday to a Friday.

36:39And changing subject was just killing me. And it suddenly occurred to me that this was a solution. The editor of the paper didn't want me to do it. Roger, Roger Olson, that name again, because he liked having me as the news features guy. And he said, you will just be lost to the world of food. he wanted Andrew Rawnsley the political columnist to do it because he took a lot of people out to lunch so he thought he could double up on expenses that's quite creative editing oh yeah but you can see and

37:09the funny thing was that Andrew didn't really want to do it so there was a deal we would alternate he did one I did ten he did another one I did another ten he went on sabbatical to write his big book on the Blair government servants of the people and I was in that was it and then uh the end of the first year this is what they're useful for i was shortlisted for an award at the end of my first year for restaurant criticism and then they couldn't get me out of seat did it did it click immediately i was aware of what i didn't know but i reckoned if i treated it as a job of journalism which i still do i could fill in the gaps uh and i genuinely didn't screw up in any major way in that first year and you'd been fluent in the language of restaurants as we've established i think it's absolutely key i i read restaurant reviews i loved restaurants i loved going to them i spent my money in them it was not a it was not a tangential thing it was a part of my life that i understood yes and and i mean there's lovely little vignettes from your childhood joe allen with with with family and then on a ski trip when you spent all your pocket money on snails and nearly set fire to the restaurant i mean it is that's abnormal See, I'm intrigued because a lot of this is in a previous book.

38:19And I don't know whether you've read that one or you've done all the cuttings. No, I've read the previous one. I've read most of the new one, which you should. I mean, you're doing that. Reminding us why you're here. Nights out in the kitchen, which is not, again, a normal book. It's got recipes in it. It's got memoir. It's got recollections. I mean, it is a function of that job. I will say when I got to 10 years, I said to my wife, I got to nine years. I said, when I get to 10 years, I'll stop. She said, no, you won't. And I didn't. And the key thing was that what I discovered, and it does feed into what Nights Out in the Kitchen is about, is that food is a brilliant subject.

38:52Because it's not just about how things taste, nor are restaurants. And we can talk about the importance of restaurants to the culture. But food is about the environment and politics and supply chains and history and memory. It's about everything. And if you are a halfway decent reporter and a writer, a good subject, a knotty subject is a brilliant thing to have. and I think it helps and it's probably the reason why I've done it so long that I had a full-on journalistic background, a reporting background to doing this job Yes, because you turn up with an eye for everything you turn up with an ear for everything in the experience I am not, people call me a food critic and say well I can do that for you if you like but that's not what I am, I'm here to tell you how much pleasure your money will buy you and the value of the room in which you're sitting it's funny because the sort of era of the of the star critic coincided almost it came a little bit later than the era of the star chef didn't it you've written i write about marco in this book quite a lot there's a whole section of marco um which just because i think he's hilarious and i do have a history with him um and it's you know it's a good story um i yeah so what marco um and harvey's was in wandsworth that's his big breakthrough restaurant that was 87 um you've got the fat duck opening in 94 and then i 99 um marco hands his stars back i'm doing little quotes in the air because you can't hand anything back but ramsey gets his three i think and jamie oliver appears at the same time it was a very very good time to pick up that gig yes because the late 90s into the 2000s was you know a very febrile time for food and when did you i mean bearing in mind what your wife said who you met at leeds and who of course sings in the jay rayner quartet six steps sex steps there's six of us inflation yes 50 more um bearing in mind what she said about knowing that you would do you remember thinking because you're quite peripatetic as you say and can turn your hand to everything but do you remember thinking this is it now this is my destination professionally speaking this is the end of the i think within about within about five to ten years I had concluded there was a lot of material so I started writing novels with food elements to them and then started writing non-fiction books and then the one show came along I was their reporter for really quite a while and I started doing you know I did a thing called the food quiz for Radio 4 and bit by bit I suddenly realised yes this was it if you were what's the word if you bored easily you could find lots of different ways in which to use that subject as a way into many things and you know the reporting element the interesting thing about the one show where i was their food reporter was it opened my eyes to the scale of food production and a lot of the mythologizing in the in the uh lifestyle food world about what food is and the realities of food sustainability all of which became very useful when i ended up doing a lot of reporting around Brexit.

42:00Okay. A lot of which we're actually seeing the end result of right now. Do you want me to bore you with a quick... Yes, I do. All right. Nothing bores me about Brexit. Okay. Brexit is part of it, but you will be aware that this summer has been one of heat waves. Yes. And the crops are in a serious dire state and our food supply chain is at risk. I do not know at this point whether the shelves have started emptying, but there's a significant risk. and the issue is that over many many years we have let our food sustainability drop it was about 75 78 percent in the early 90s you wouldn't want to be 100 self-sufficient you can't be yeah um people go how we were 38 before the war and go that was because we were pillaging colonies yeah um but we'd got to the high 70s and since then as the supermarkets were given enormous power and started forcing horrendous deals on farmers we've dwindled and dwindled and dwindled and we are now essentially at 50 percent um and i wrote a book about this greedy man in a hungry world in which i said we are now at risk of suffering if there is an external shock um and what i hadn't anticipated was that it would be self-inflicted we do it ourselves yeah that it was brexit and further down the line if you look at the part of state that agriculture is in um a heat wave has left us in a very fragile state it would have been difficult without all of the issues that have uh damaged our food supply chain um but it's now hellish it's a perfect storm yeah it is pretty much storm and look at you there that's why i wanted you to talk about it because that you can't stop being the journalist can you you can't because because people again you're on the telly you're on the radio, you're flamboyant, you have hair.

43:53You have hair. I know you bastard. It's all of these things that might make you look like a dilettante. You are still in your bones. You want the story. Yeah, I do still want the story. A story is a marvellous thing, isn't it? I mean, you can witter on endlessly about, you know, there's a whole strain of food writing at the moment, which is the wisdom of the ancients. I'm cooking in the tradition of my grandmother. My grandmother was a terrible cook and i don't see that as an actual uh it's not a substitute for having good ideas and having worked them out um and at the risk of bringing it back to this book the point of this is that it is full of stories about the restaurants and then the recipes and the recipes inspired by them um and with pictures of menus in there as well like the whole sort of multi-sensory experience yeah no photographs of food you noticed that yes i did notice that why was that two reasons one One, because I do love certain full-colour cookbooks.

44:52I've got some I love. But I think that colour food photography has become so sophisticated that it's an invitation to fail. Two, it adds£8 to the price of the book. Does it really? Is it that much? That much. But I know people want a visual reference, so there's a QR code at the back of that book. And you can look things up. Well, no, it goes to an extra section of my website where all the photographs are. Oh, lovely. All the photographs of the food as I cooked them. so they are actually what it looks like. And you, of course, also take pictures of the food that you're eating now yourself as well.

45:22Oh, in restaurants? Yes. That started, I mean, when I was on The Observer, they sent a photographer in to take the pictures. And I started taking them on my phone as an aide-memoire. I didn't really like taking notes over dinner. And I reckoned if I had a picture in the name of the dish, that should do it. And that if it didn't, there was a problem with the dish. Yes. and so I started taking them and started posting them on the FT they illustrate with a delicious illustration by Daniel Egenius and my pictures now get posted to the FT page and people are furious because they're often rubbish you slid very comfortably into broadcasting but given what we've now learnt about your life you would have done wouldn't you because it's the hinterland between showbiz and journalism that's absolutely true look at you now I mean I can trace it out I did a lot in theatre group when I was at university and very early on there was a programme on BBC Radio 4 called Newsstand and it was a clearinghouse for a generation of young broadcasters each week, it was 15 minutes just before the Archer's Omnibus on a Sunday you would do a kind of what the papers say analysis of a small section of the newsstand and whoever was editing it had a good eye for looking for young people i say good eye because he hired me um and get you in to do it so i did that first okay and i did what the papers say and then i got involved in a thing called stop press with a great journalist no longer with us john diamond um ended up with and it was stage by stage by stage it was organic but it fitted very comfortably with my skill set And you bring a particular transparent enjoyment to broadcasting.

47:11You have a wonderful time on air. Well, now the main thing I do is a show called The Kitchen Cabinet. On Radio 4, which is just, I mean, it's just lovely. It is lovely. But we have a mantra, which is that if we don't sound like we're having fun, nobody's going to enjoy listening to this. And we work on it. It's the usual thing. To sound spontaneous, you better put some work in. And we put a lot of work in. We really do. But yeah, that's a massive privilege. 26 episodes a year, traveling all over the country. Wonderful show. Live audiences. It's lovely.

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48:34soon yes i absolutely did i mean i'd done it a little bit in a couple of previous books one was a book called ten food commandments a bunch of essays and then there were a few in my last supper what happened was i spotted that good god it's going to be 25 years in 2024 and how am i going to market and i really had always had this habit of reverse engineering a restaurant dish i like yeah i ate it and i thought oh i always cooked could i come take this home and do something with it and i thought actually that would be a really interesting way into the stories of the restaurants yes i had to get the blessing of every chef involved because the last thing you'd want is for them to think that i was nicking their ideas about either attribution or blessing um and there were other things you could do so there are life lessons where i get taught a dish where it's particularly tricky so in this one i went all the way to avarist with to meet a syrian refugee called uh gofran hamza who taught me baklava um which is not an easy thing to make but the recipe is there yeah and all the videos and i might not be trying that one first but i also i mean this sort of ties everything together as a result of the chinese crackdown on hong kong a lot of hong kongers came to the uk and under the british national overseas visa scheme and a significant number of hong kong chinese restaurants which was not a part of the Chinese sector, Chinese restaurant sector, opened up.

50:06And one of them was a takeaway in Reading called Good Old Days Hong Kong, where the chef, Pui Sung, was previously one of the senior chefs at the Jockey Club in Hong Kong. It was like finding the chef of the Ritz in your local takeaway. Amazing. It was a cracking story for a review. And then I went back and he taught me a dish so that I could write about that story. It's the deep fried pork chop with chili salt. how do you do people alert you to things that are going on to people i mean obviously people are going to say oh my local such and such is amazing you must come here but what makes your antennae twitch i'm looking for the story yeah because in essence a restaurant is a table of chair and a plate of food and how are you going to make that work over a thousand words there needs to be a story and what is that story i you know there are any number of gastropubs in the uk and they've all got the same bloody menu um and i can tell you what it is i can tell you the british The British gastropub menu is a terrine, a risotto and a goat's cheese and beetroot salad to start, a sea bass pork belly and ribeye steak for Maine and a lemon tart chocolate fondant and a sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

51:16That is the British gastropub menu. And loads of places do it really well. I have nothing to say if trying to review it. However good it is. However good it is. Or bad. Well, maybe you get a piece out of it being awful. Well, maybe. You've got to be careful. Of course you do. Punch up, not down. Yes, exactly. We'll come to it. Squeeze that in before the end. Yeah, you've got to look for a story. And multiple sources. Part of it's just journalism. You're on certain websites. You're getting press releases. I'm getting emails from readers, some of which really do pay off, some of which don't. Keep your ear to the ground.

51:50And, you know, try not to do the obvious too often. Yeah. Because there's a group of readers who read everything and therefore get irritated when you all review the same place, even though theatre critics all review the big West End opening. And I've done that job as well at one point. And it's going to happen. Sometimes we're all going to... I can't believe you're doing Hamlet as well. Hamlet's opened the RSC and you've all gone. You know, Simpsons in the Strand opened. And we all went to Simpsons in the Strand. But it's also an opportunity to find other places that other people perhaps haven't done.

52:23Yes. And then, of course, Simpsons in the Strand was also a massive story. wasn't it? Yeah, it was a great story. Coming together of Jeremy King, a brilliant restaurateur and an institution which had been on its uppers and money invested and it made the business of running a restaurant look simple. So you do have a mantra about punching up, not punching down. But equally, you have written a couple of pieces that have become bywords for negative reviews, haven't you? The Le Sanc being perhaps the most obvious. Look, I didn't go to Paris to of your Michelin three star to make a name for myself. But by God, it did.

53:03I knew what I was going to do as I was glattering down the steps of the Georges Sainte Hotel in Paris after a truly appalling meal. And I knew it was going to have an impact. Because it's like criticising the Mona Lisa or something, in a way. I know it's more subjective than that. A little bit, but it really wasn't appalling. I mean, none of it was for show. No, you can tell that when you read it. You can tell that if anybody wants to find to the review, April 2017. It's on the Guardian website, Le Sanc. And just to put it in perspective how big this got, on an observer review with a good-sized one, we'll get 150 ,000 to 200 ,000 page views.

53:40I think to date, Le Sanc is at around 3 million. It became an international news story. It landed me an advertising campaign with a Finnish high-end supermarket. It got me a subriquet. I don't know where it came from. They call him Acid Rainer. Very nice. Which is nice. I've never been able to find the sauce, but I'll have it. Yeah, but I was angry after that meal. It had cost 600 euros for two, and I couldn't claim it all. I claimed only a quarter of it. It was insane. Do you have a reader in mind when you write? Or even a diner? No, I don't. And I don't because that's limiting. I mean I work on the basis that if you find me offensive or childish I'm not for you I don't expect to be for everyone Well you write about being hated in there and when I started reading that bit of the book you're talking mostly about the people who you've castigated in print who hate you it's not a sort of reflection on Twitter or anything like that I mean there are a lot of people nobody who has a forward facing life should expect to be liked by everyone and I once said when I was doing a lot more television, I don't do very much anymore, that to have a successful career on television, you have to be liked by 55 % of the viewers.

55:01No more than that. And nobody should expect more than that. Because the more exposed you are, the more people decide they dislike you. It's human nature. It's just true. And you can't be for everyone. And if you attempt to be for everyone, that you are going to fail. So you're kind of, as you say, you've decided to do a little less telly books keep on coming more more novels in you do you think i'd like to although the publication publishing of fiction is tricky i've had i've had a few stabs at it and been knocked back have you yeah i have and because public publishing likes knows what it knows but that's fine i might have another i'm thinking of you know having another crack what's nice is that you you're obviously so well established now on this pitch but your curiosity is entirely undimmed isn't it i could imagine i can't quite imagine you doing something completely different but i can imagine you doing something new um but i bore easily yes and that's that's another way of describing curiosity i think easily and i have a certain set of skills i think there is no such thing as food writing just writing that happens to be about food yeah and i therefore decline to be told what i can write about i could write about anything and it would be my job to do it well enough um so i i yeah i i could i could end up writing about anything do you miss anything from when you were more of a sort of renaissance journalist generalist yes there is something i miss um which is that and there's no sort of shy way of talking about this um before i developed a public profile before i was on tv before on radio i was very good at cold calling and going to see people and interviewing them and getting their stories and now my own profile gets in the way of that yeah so if you want to go and do a story if you want to interview a lot of people you know or i say ordinary people with stories to tell i get in the way of the story and that's a shame yes um i one the last ones i did was a big piece for the observer about a day in the life of the hope uh greasy spoon on the Holloway Road.

57:13And I stayed there all day and would sit down with the punters, you know, having their full English and their cup of tea, and I'd want to interview them. And 95 % of the time, we had to spend the first 10 minutes getting over the fact that that bloke from MasterChef was sitting at their table, which is fine. I'm not complaining about it. No, I know you're not. It's all... Of course. It's a choice, and it's great. But it's different. And I do miss that, just being the guy with the notebook, the one who'd go to the hardest pub in Essex for three days and all that stuff. So as we draw to a conclusion, hack to hack, the move from Observer to the FT, I don't know how interested other people will be in this, but was it a pleasant leap?

57:53Was it an easy thing to do? I have been very fortunate. I mean, look, the Guardian, for their own reasons, decided to sell the Observer. I immediately concluded, or I knew it would be going behind a paywall. I had a number of options. I could go with them and they were very keen to have me. I could set up my own sub stack, but I suspected that would be a law of diminishing returns. But then more importantly, I was very privileged to be approached by the FT to say, we're thinking of shaking up our whole food and drink coverage. Why don't you join us? And it is a very lovely paper to work for. It's a very clever paper.

58:27I was looking at something literally today as we're recording, which said that it has the highest readership and trust quotient of under 35s, which utterly took me by surprise. That's incredible. It's a smart, smart place. And I'm, you know, after 29 years in the same group, the Guardian Group, to have a last act, which is what I suspect this is in newspapers, is an absolute privilege. And thank you, Janine Gibson, for hiring me. She's the editor of The Weeknd. Well, and she obviously relishes having you on her team as well. But it was a very smart hire. We haven't really talked about ambition, partly because it appeared so quickly and appeared so early in your life and partly because your career has been so wide-ranging but are there are there any boxes left unticked i have a couple around jazz yeah there's a couple of things about that at all well we mentioned the sex step um there's a couple of venues i'd like to play but only purely for bucket list stuff i want to get better at that um i would love to publish another novel but in terms of ambition uh you know the i often said that the entirety of my working life was built around avoiding meetings and never having to answer the question where do you see yourself in five years time i have no idea but i can't retire from the inside of my own head so i imagine i'll just keep writing that's a great line as well isn't it i can't retire from the inside of my own head nights out in the kitchen by jay rayner is is out now um and it's it's lovely as indeed has been this interview.

1:00:04Jay Rayner, thank you. Thank you for having me.

1:00:10This has been a Global Production.

From the publisher

Jay Rayner has eaten some of the best meals in the world - and written some of Britain’s most memorable restaurant reviews. But the story behind the critic is even richer.

In this candid conversation, Jay joins James O’Brien to talk about the unlikely path from a famously unconventional childhood to becoming one of Britain’s most recognisable writers and broadcasters. There are school expulsions, tabloid diary columns, high-stakes investigations, celebrity encounters and the restaurant review that became an international news story.

Jay reflects on growing up with his mother, agony aunt Claire Rayner; discovering oysters at ten; and learning that food is a doorway into memory, class, politics and pleasure. He also reveals why he walked away from a fast-moving newspaper career, how he accidentally became The Observer’s restaurant critic, and why he still believes every great restaurant has a story to tell.

Along the way, Jay talks about his move to the Financial Times, his love of broadcasting and jazz, and why - after decades in journalism - he still cannot retire from the inside of his own head.

Find out more about Nights Out in the Kitchen by Jay Rayner here

Full Disclosure is a Global Production

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