In short
A Geneva Watch Days market roundup focused on how major groups are competing in the entry/mid-price segment, plus hands-on reactions to several releases across brands.
Guests
Tim Jeffreys (Deputy Editor at Hodinkee) and TanTan Wang (Editor at Hodinkee). Both are in Geneva in person for the show and discuss what they saw firsthand.
Key claims
- Breitling’s “House of Brands” strategy is taking shape: after acquiring Universal Genève, it revived Galet as a more aggressive, dialed-in value play.
- Galet is positioned for a broader, fashion-forward audience and sold through Breitling boutiques/monobrand spaces, not just vintage enthusiasts.
- The Galet lineup is “commercial,” but the watches feel quality in hand; the Flying Officer is a standout under ~$3,000.
- Frédéric Constant is benefiting from complication-focused “honest watchmaking,” with sales up double digits.
- Collaborations and playful design (Bulgari x Vianney Halter; Oris x Muppets) are “palate cleansers” in a high-price market.
Notable examples
- Galet Galet: revived brand; prices ~2,500 to just over 6,000 CHF; Flying Officer with 12-hour bezel; chronographs with higher-end Salida; “classics” using Breitling B09 chronograph movement.
- Frédéric Constant: Moneta (dial work; GPHG nomination), Moonphase, World Timer (in-house; ~8,000 USD).
- Bulgari x Vianney Halter: GMT Octo Finissimo platform with steampunk porthole aesthetics; limited allocations (titanium and gold).
- Oris: third Muppets collaboration, “Gonzo” edition using Oris Calibre 115 skeletonized hand-wind (~10,000+ USD).
- Doxa: titanium 300 case on strap; “color array” appeal.
- MB&F Mad 3: tribute to Vincent Calabrese’s Balladon; described as the most wearable/least “crazy” Mad Edition.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOCurrent Landscape of the Watch Industry
0:46 to 1:18
Discussion about the current state of the watch industry.
“But we've seen, you know, you guys have been here for quite a few days.”
Breitling's Galet Collection Unveiled
1:19 to 2:11
Overview of Breitling's new Galet collection and its pricing strategy.
“Now, it's quite an interesting strategy here.”
Analyzing the Galet Brand Launch
2:12 to 2:58
In-depth thoughts on the branding and target audience of Galet.
“But the big news is Galay, and so Galay is back.”
Audience Reception and Brand Positioning
2:59 to 4:07
Exploration of how Galet is positioned within the market for different audiences.
“I think this is one of those brands, and I don't think I've actually had to say this in a while, but this is one of those brands where I need to sit and just think a little longer about the product.”
Value Proposition of New Releases
4:08 to 6:06
Discussion on the value proposition of Galet's new watches and comparisons with past models.
“And I think that's what's interesting to me.”
Impressions of the Flying Officer Model
6:07 to 7:39
Initial impressions of the Flying Officer model from the new collection.
“It's actually a better bracelet now because it has the Galley engraving and also micro adjust.”
Contextualizing Galet Within Breitling's Portfolio
7:40 to 10:27
Contextual discussion of Galet's place within the broader Breitling products.
“And I guess that's Swiss francs starting place for a three-hander, that flying officer.”
Future Prospects and Company Strategy
10:28 to 14:00
Conversation about Breitling's future strategies and potential market shifts.
“which they are kind of leaning into the fact that this is manufactured by Breitling.”
Exploring the Flying Officer Watch
14:00 to 16:28
Learn about the innovative features and appeal of the Flying Officer watch.
“But, yeah, no, it's a great, fascinating story.”
Impact of Swiss Industry Trends
16:28 to 19:06
Understand the challenges faced by the Swiss watch industry and its response.
“worry about, you know, lug widths, lug to lugs, all of that, and to swap everything across the board.”
Show all 25 chapters
Galay's Presentation Strategy
19:06 to 21:48
Discover how Galay effectively presented their brand to attract new customers.
“And so anything else we want to say about Galay?”
Frédéric Constant's Market Performance
21:48 to 25:50
Examine Frédéric Constant's successful releases and market strategy.
“And that sort of straightforwardness is refreshing in an industry that isn't always that straightforward.”
Innovative Designs in Watchmaking
25:50 to 28:00
Explore the collaboration between Bulgari and Vianney Halter in watch design.
“And just continuing with FC from Alpina, we saw new editions of the Star Timer and the Xtreme.”
Excitement Over New Watch Designs
28:00 to 29:29
Discussion about recent watch releases and their appeal.
“And I think this is where that succeeds so much for me.”
Theme of Refreshing Collaborations
29:30 to 31:20
Exploration of the ethos behind recent watch collaborations.
“But even like, you know, I did hear you audibly gasp in the office when it came out.”
Insights on Girard Perregaux's New Releases
31:21 to 33:40
Review of Girard Perregaux's latest releases and their boutique.
“Like that's one of the, this is both Tantan and Mai's first Geneva watches.”
Oris Muppets Collaboration Discussion
33:41 to 36:29
Analyzing Oris's latest Muppets-themed watch and its features.
“I haven't seen the, I've seen the construction site and talked to the people building it.”
Market Reactions and Watch Value
36:30 to 42:00
Discussion on market reactions to new watches and value perceptions.
“Yeah, and if anyone listening is also a Muppets fan, I'd highly recommend you check out.”
Exploring AORUS and Doxa Watches
42:00 to 43:30
Discussion on AORUS's market strategy and Doxa's new releases.
“I mean, and AORUS, you know, it's interesting.”
The Unique Appeal of Doxa
43:30 to 46:30
Analyzing why Doxa watches resonate with enthusiasts despite similarities.
“I mean, did I think about, you know, maybe wanting to buy one of the orange, you know, professionals right after that meeting?”
Introduction to MB&F's Mad 3 Edition
46:30 to 49:10
Overview of the MB&F Mad 3 watch and its creative challenges.
“Obviously, they do the LE, the Clive Cluster, just one watch, but this is an array of colors, five colors.”
The Business Model Behind Mad Editions
49:10 to 52:50
Discussing the strategic business approach of MB&F's Mad Editions.
“Yeah, like people that have designed cases.”
Insights on Tudor's North Flag Launch
52:50 to 55:40
Reviewing the Tudor North Flag's new model features and pricing.
“But, you know, this is actually more of a challenge, obviously.”
Final Thoughts on the Geneva Watch Days
55:40 to 56:01
Wrap up discussion on various brands and their presentations at Geneva Watch Days.
“But, you know, they're not going to do that.”
Discussion on Tudor North Flag Evolution
56:01 to 1:02:10
Explore the details and opinions surrounding the new Tudor North Flag watch.
“And, you know, and the pricing, I think of the Swiss pricing is 4 ,500 Swiss francs for this.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00Welcome to the Business of Watches, the Hodinkee podcast where we talk to the players and the executives and go behind the scenes to find out what's making the watch industry tick. A very special, relaxed, interesting, off-the-cuff episode we're going to have this week. We are in Geneva and in person I am joined by Tim Jeffreys, Deputy Editor at Hodinkee, as is TanTan Wang, Editor at Hodinkee. Gentlemen, welcome to Geneva. Thank you for having us. Thanks for having us in your beautiful home. Indeed. Well, we are in, you know, this is a very professional studio. Undiscripted part of Geneva, for security purposes, obviously.
0:42Absolutely. Undisclosed location. So we've been here, you know, it's now Friday. The show wraps up officially on Sunday. But we've seen, you know, you guys have been here for quite a few days. We've seen a lot of stuff. It's been quite interesting. It's been quite hectic. It is an interesting time for the industry in that we've sort of gone through a cycle, a boom, a real pullback. Now there's kind of more optimism and yet lots of uncertainty ahead as there are lots of uncertain geopolitical events and situations. But one of the biggest groups, the House of Brands led by Breitling, unveiled their long-awaited and much-anticipated Galet collection.
1:30Now, it's quite an interesting strategy here. Obviously, Breitling, like much of the industry, has been moving up in terms of price and value and quality over the past few years. So they've moved up in price. We saw a great Breitling Navitimer, which we should also talk about as well. And then they came with Universal Genève earlier this year, which is a brand they acquired for about 60 or 70 million francs. A dormant brand is a big outlay. And then they've spent lots more reviving that brand and coming with an offering at a higher price point, starting at about 15 ,000 francs and going right up to the top.
2:10We saw some of those watches in person for the first time for some of us, and they were also quite impressive, and it was nice to see those. But the big news is Galay, and so Galay is back. It's a revived brand that used to be around, a Swiss brand with plenty of heritage and history, and they are coming in at a very aggressive sort of entry-level or mid-level price point around 2 ,500 Swiss francs. just a little bit less than$3 ,000, all the way up to, you know, the top of five and just a little over six, but those are for some very special pieces. So we've all been waiting for this. We got to see the product.
2:54We were handling it today. Gentlemen, what do we think? I mean, where to start? Tan Tan. Where to start? Galet is an interesting one for me. I think this is one of those brands, and I don't think I've actually had to say this in a while, but this is one of those brands where I need to sit and just think a little longer about the product. I think a lot of sort of the unexpected aspects of this brand launch for me really comes in the language that they're using to present the brand. Wanderlust? Wanderlust, you know, a really adventure lifestyle themed. I think obviously we were, you know, I think there was a naive hope that a revived galet would be sort of an enthusiast core play.
3:44But if you know how the brands are being structured, obviously we knew that wasn't in the cards, but to hear, you know, the words come out of, you know, for example, Mr. Kern's mouth or, you know, the teams that this is for a, you know, more fashion, you know, fashion forward audience. This is for almost a less watch enthusiast audience. Sure. It's commercial. It's very commercial. Right. And I think that's what's interesting to me. And I think at first I almost felt unqualified to talk about Galet given that I don't particularly have any, you know, affinity towards the vintage, you know, the original brand, you know, a lot of this is, I mean, deep cut vintage stuff, right?
4:24Just as a quick side note, though, it's interesting that that brand seemed to have a particular resonance in the U.S. traditionally. So it's an interesting choice considering the role that the U.S. plays in the market right now. But yeah. A hundred percent. And, you know, I think during my hesitation, I kind of came to the realization. I was like, oh, wait, like, I actually think they're trying to position this kind of product more for people like me than for the people that have been, you know, collecting Galay all along. This is for people to wander into a Breitling boutique. You know, as we know, their rollout starts at, I believe, Breitling boutiques only, then certainly monobrand sort of spaces.
5:02And so this is for people to come into a Breitling boutique and then check out the product, right? I'm curious what proportion they're assuming are going to be people curious about the brand then going to the boutique or, you know, the other way around, which is maybe people looking for a Breitling and then seeing the idea of a lower price tag sort of adventure watch, if you will, as I'm sure they will be selling this as and sort of buying from there. So all that to say, I have a lot of thoughts. I don't know if I've compiled all of them. I have more questions than ever, I think, after the presentation.
5:35But I mean, long story short, the product is very – it fits the price, right? I think, you know, my favorite ones are the 38 millimeter vintage reissues. and the classics that I do think are sort of a bone that they tossed towards sort of the enthusiast crowd, if you will. For sure. That was, yeah, that was a bit of fan service there. But of course, you know, they're the most expensive ones, right? A departure from the core price point. So yeah, all that to say, I'm, you know, I'm still thinking, eager to do some hands-ons and spend some time with the product and kind of go from there. Just to follow up though on the classics, and then I want to hear Tim on this, but to me, I mean, And, you know, those ones have, I mean, and obviously this is a whole value proposition, and they say they're sort of able to produce these pieces because of the scale that they have as Breitling as a manufacturer, and it's all being assembled by Breitling at their facilities here in Switzerland.
6:33Even we see those steel bracelets. That's a Breitling bracelet. It has a nice galley. It's actually a better bracelet now because it has the Galley engraving and also micro adjust. But indeed, that value, that idea of value for those classics is a Breitling B09 chronograph movement. And I think, you know, in a Breitling watch to start to get into that, you're looking at a much higher price point. Yeah, I think my overall takeaway and why I like those products I think the most is that, you know, value proposition obviously is a very relative term, right? We use it in context of what price points or what the product's trying to achieve.
7:14And I think the wider galley releases match the price that they're asking for versus these vintage reissues, which I think offer a pretty good value proposition for someone looking for that bright laying manually wound movement, right? And I think that's the interesting part where it's the more expensive stuff to me that's actually more of a value proposition than the classics. Yeah. And Tim, tell me your impressions. I mean, you know, this is a brand that's basically coming in, I think, you know, 2 ,500. And I guess that's Swiss francs starting place for a three-hander, that flying officer. I think it's a pretty smart look and watch and feels quality in the hand and on the wrist.
7:52And then with the chronographs, both have Salida movements, but the chronograph has got that higher end, Salida chronograph with the extended power reserve. But yeah, they're going, you know, this is a segment that, you know, Tudor was once in, if we think, but, you know, they've kind of graduated out of it. Omega hasn't been there for a long time. Longines is aggressively sort of still trying to stay there. Then you've got, you know, Frédéric Constant is sort of sometimes in that space. But yeah, I mean, what do we think about like a big group like Breitling, the House of Brands, going into that kind of segment?
8:33That's exactly what I wanted to talk about because I think it's obviously a very interesting year for the now coined House of Brands. And for me, this was the final piece of the puzzle. We got UG earlier in the year. We're getting Galet this time. And I think when those prices came out, we were all excited for UG. And I think across the board, I think we can all agree on a little higher than we were expecting to come in at. UG, you mean, yeah. Yeah, UG. And so I think we were all maybe expecting the same thing for Galet just because of UG. And then I remember when we got the prices, I think there was a general sentiment within the company.
9:05It was like, oh, these are competitively priced. And I think that, like, that's the final piece of the House of Brands puzzle. It's like, okay, they're positioning it at an aggressive price point. And I think contextualizing it against UG, because they're both fresh in my mind. They both came out this year. You know, UG, a ton of references across the board, four different lines. They had the pret-a-porte. They had the one-of-ones. They have all of these. It's a lot of skews. A lot of skews. And this, for me, was the opposite of that. It was really dialed in. And I think that we were all surprised in a very positive way.
9:39And for me, when I saw the flying officer for the first time on Images First and then on the wrist today, I was really, really pleasantly surprised about how strong that is. It's a great watch for under$3 ,000, incredibly competitive. And I think that for me, it's just really helpful to contextualize it. I just can't help but compare it to UG. And first of all, just what a busy year for the house of brands. I mean, geez, like launching two brands, reviving a 200-year-old brand in Galay. I mean, I know that was done with care. I know that was done with intention. And I think that for me, it was a really solid release.
10:14It was a really solid introduction. I'm curious to see where they go from here. But for me, a good first step. Yeah, and I'd love to hear you both on this idea. I mean, you know, 2 ,500 Swiss francs entry level for a quality, well-made Swiss watch, which they are kind of leaning into the fact that this is manufactured by Breitling. The name Breitling is on the back of the watch, But theoretically, they could have, you know, say this is a new Breitling line coming out in this space. But what they've chosen to do is to, you know, revive this sort of deep cut old brand and do that. And whereas we see other brands who do can be in this way, Tag Heuer, I think, for instance, you know, plays in a whole bunch of price categories.
11:04is Frédéric Constant does it as well, both below and above that. But yeah, I mean, what do we make of that choice to shroud it in Galay? But, you know, these are Breitling made watches and there's a lot of shared components and there'll be in Breitling boutiques. That's the way it's going to work. Powered by Breitling, I think is going to be a phrase that we're going to hear a lot of the next few years. I think for me, obviously it makes sense. Breitling moving to more of a parent company. I mean, Mr. Kern has said it yesterday. He said that in some ways, like Brandlink is the parent company of both Galet and Yushi in this like quotes.
11:46And so I think that And they couldn't have done it without them. Oh, a hundred percent. And I think that like that makes sense. I'm just like, I don't know if that's that branding, that nomenclature is, is completely necessary. I think that like, we don't, we can go without it personally, but But I think that by saying that, by having that nomenclature, it's a sign of like they want these brands to be intertwined. They don't want them to be completely isolated. I mean, again, I think it shows what kind of audience that they're positioning these watches for, right? This is, I think, you know, we were chatting about this the other day.
12:19But even though, you know, Breitling is not maybe the first brand that, you know, diehard watch enthusiasts, you know, think about day to day. You know, I would say like, you know, alongside maybe Speedmasters and Submariners, I see so many Navitimers out there, you know, so many Breitlings. And, you know, I think this is a clear statement where they believe that the brand recognition outside of, again, our little bubble of enthusiasts, like the Breitling brand recognition is so strong that they're actually, they need it to carry this. And it's certainly to the audience that they're looking for very much a plus, right?
12:55So again, I think it's, again, the sort of courage or audacity to put that on the back of each galet was really surprising to me. And it's almost a little surreal, right? Like to, you know, you're looking at a galet and yes, even though they're very different products from the original ones, and then you turn it back and you see like that, you know, that bee, right? And it's like assembling like the Breitling Cinematic Universe in a sense, right? And I think that's very much an interesting, like again, the language is so interesting to me this time around. It's like reading this language is really the only way for me to understand sort of the way that they're shaping this brand.
13:31But it's quite interesting. It's quite unexpected, I would say. Totally. You know, I agree. And, no, it's bold and there's plenty of audacity involved. And, you know, we're all going to be watching very closely. Obviously, there's been some reports lately about, you know, Breitling's parent company, their owner, Partners Group, which is a Swiss private equity firm. And, you know, yeah, there's some debt obligations coming due over the next little while. But, yeah, no, it's a great, fascinating story. But, you know, George Kern is one of the best known and most talented executives in this industry.
14:09He's been around a long time. And, you know, this is a story about trying to create growth. And they're doing it on these multi-platforms. And it's really fascinating. Last thing I'll say about this is, you know, that Flying Officer, you know, obviously it harkens back to the original Flying Officer, which was a really cool and innovative watch in its day and in terms of being an actual GMT and telling time and having all these great sort of refueling stop names on the dial. And I really like what they've actually kind of done here. And I think just putting a 12-hour timing bezel on there, that's just cool.
14:52Like, I mean, that's a cool choice. And, you know, there's a lot of Breitlings, including many I own, that have compass bezels on them. And that's not the most useful, although it kind of looks cool. It's not so useful. And once you, you know, learn how to use a 12-hour bezel to time another time zone or to track another time zone, yeah, it's very cool. And so I think, you know, this would not be a bad choice as someone's first watch. It's got, you know, there's one with the bold orange dial color, you know, and another in blue and then the chronographs. And, you know, I think it's not a bad watch.
15:31And, you know, whether or not we think that the marketing and that color scheme sort of hits the mark, it is a very commercial release. But there are some, you know, real cool watchmaking touches there. And it does feel quality in the hand. Yeah, for sure. I think, again, this is what this proposition is, I think, for a product is that these feel much better than maybe your run-of-the-mill micro-brand offering, you know, at a similar price point. And I think that's where, you know, again, to the general public, that makes a huge difference, right? When you hold it in your hand and you get that sort of density and that tactility, it makes a difference.
16:13And again, I think it's very smart for them to have sort of committed to basically the same lug width and lug design across the entire board because they just want the idea that any customer can not worry about, you know, lug widths, lug to lugs, all of that, and to swap everything across the board. You know, quick release is not a new thing. They didn't invent it, even though they sort of made it sound like they invented a new system. But I think what's interesting is them committing to this idea that you don't need to order different straps. Like this is also efficiency on their end, right? So there's a lot of, again, interesting choices of them taking a step back, revisiting how to, you know, launch this.
16:54And again, we'll see where it goes from here. I was going to mention, I'm glad you brought up the straps. I think that obviously with, I think it's maybe seven or eight SKUs, I don't, I think somewhere around there. but I think the number of straps are 20 or so. And so that's a way to - Like 150 combinations with all those pieces. And the permutations are large. And so I think that's a really wise and strategic decision by the house of brands to go out of that way. I think that less dials, more straps, a lot of variations. I think there's something, I think we can all agree, there's something there for just about everybody.
17:27And I think that they've accomplished that goal. Yeah. And as you were saying, Tentin, I mean, yeah, I mean, you know, this is a part of the industry that was, you know, that much of the traditional Swiss industry has ceded to those micro, you know, what I like to call boutique brands. But indeed, this is, you know, an attempt to leverage that proper Swiss heritage and that Swiss company manufacturing and compete in that space. And because, yeah, I mean, you know, from my perspective and anyone in the industry will tell you, I mean, the crisis, the challenge of the Swiss industry is volumes, right, is bringing back, trying to stop the slide in volumes.
18:11I mean, you know, the value of Swiss exports has been going up for years and that's because prices have been going up and brands have been making less watches but charging more. And, you know, the part of the industry that feels that the worst and feels it first is the commotant suppliers. And, you know, if that infrastructure really goes away, it doesn't just threaten those companies and it threatens the entire industry because obviously the industry is everybody makes watches with supplies from component makers. And that's how it works. And if they go away, you know, the whole industry is in trouble.
18:48And, you know, we've seen AP talking about it lately. And, you know, the whole industry knows this. And so I think chapeau to the House of Brands in terms of, you know, trying to make that reverse course on that volume trend, I would say. And so anything else we want to say about Galay? I mean, it is, you know, it's basically the big news, the big event of Geneva Watch Days this year, though. Yeah. I liked how they contextualized it, not only within the House of Brands, but how they presented it. like I thought that there was a lot of care that went into the presentation. You know, they had paragliders and they had climbers.
19:28They really were pushing the sense of wanderlust. And I really appreciated that because I think that, you know, you want to desire, you want to have, you know, create something. Obviously we know Galay, we know it's been around 20 years. We know the history, the ins and outs of it. But if you're trying as an entry-level brand should do entry level on quotes, but a$3 ,000 price point brand wants to do is bring in new customers. And how do they do that? How do you bring them into that ecosystem? Is it creating this sense of want, desire going out there? And so I felt how they presented it during the presentation was really smart.
20:05And the marketing around it, I thought was really good. And it was great to see George Curran in a safari hat and out looking at tigers and giraffes. But I really like that. And you can tell a lot of care went into that and they just didn't have, you know, it wasn't just like a 30 minute speech. Like thought went into it and I appreciate that. I think whether you care for the product or not, you know, obviously it's, you know, unsurprisingly, you see a corner of the internet, which is the diehard vintage collectors, you know, go up in arms about the new designs. But regardless of if you like the product or not, I'm noting how almost honest they are in the way that they're serving this brand, in the way that I think they know their audience, right?
20:49I think they're not pretending to be sort of something bigger or more intellectual than they are. I think they know their audience is going to be, you know, that, again, that young fashion forward market, which is a term that stuck in my head because, you know, it's not something that we're interpreting. It's something that was presented to us. It's regular watch buyers. It's not necessarily enthusiasts, but you've got to try and have the enthusiasts on board. But that's not, you know, who's necessarily going to be buying these watches in volumes. Yeah. So I think, you know, I almost do feel that that aspect is almost a little bit refreshing in that it's not trying to pretend that it's, you know, this intellectual thing for the most discerning collectors.
21:33And then when in reality, it's pushing for them, you know, a mass market sort of conversion. But like, they're just like, no, this is our audience. We're looking to sell a lot of watches to people that just want a watch that they like, you know, and here it is, you know? Yeah, absolutely. And that sort of straightforwardness is refreshing in an industry that isn't always that straightforward. So I agree. Let's jump to a brand that's sort of in the same category, which is Frédéric Constant, which had some strong releases here, including it's the Moneta, the Classics Moneta, which is a lovely looking watch with quite dramatic dial work, nominated for a GPHG.
22:18as well. And, you know, I had a conversation with Niels Egerding, the CEO there, the managing director there, and they're doing well. They are leveraging, but it's interesting to, I think, compare and contrast with the House of Brands because, you know, they are, this is a Swiss based watchmaker that was started by a Dutch a couple of years ago, you know, almost 40 years ago, but is owned by Japan Citizen Group. And so, you know, he talked about leveraging that group, all those opportunities they have and that leverage they have in terms of dealing with suppliers and those kind of things. And, you know, you told me that sales are up double digits year over year, which, you know, in that price point, you know, average, I think, 1 ,600, 1 ,700 euros for their stuff is good news and a little surprising in an industry that's kind of been flat for the past few years.
23:09So, yeah. What did you think of what we saw from Frédéric Constant, either of you guys? I think Frédéric Constant's having a great year. To be honest with you, I just did a hands-on on the World Timer that they released. I watched The Wonders, which is one of my favorites from the show. A beautiful World Timer, made in-house, and coming in about$8 ,000. And, you know, following that up with, I think, a very strong Geneva Watch show. Obviously, you have the Moon Phase and the Mineta. The Mineta was nominated as a limited run, 999, nominated for GPSG. Moon Phase, I think that it's interesting, you know, World Timer, Moon Phase.
23:45I think that this is a year for Frederic Constant just kind of showing their complication prowess. And I think it's a beautiful execution. I think that the pair of them, the Moneta and the Moonphase, work really well together. And in getting it all on the wrist, I was a big fan. And I think I'm not surprised to hear that sales are up because I think at that price point under 10K US, I think it's really strong. And if you want a World Timer, a Moonphase, I mean, where else are you looking? You know, for me, at the 7 to 8K, so it was great to see them follow up, I thought, a great release at Watchers and Winners with the two greats here at Gene Walsh's.
24:23Absolutely. FC is great at sort of that level of, I would say, honest watchmaking. I think, you know, to me, it's all about the complications as their value proposition to an enthusiast, right? Like, again, even their perpetual is something that— It's a great story, their perpetual. It's a great execution and they're doing stuff sort of the right way. Obviously, you know, they have a very close relationship with La Juppere, which is, you know. Also owned by Citizen Avi, the Swiss movement maker here. Exactly. And so, you know, again, they're doing just good, solid stuff, right? And I think, like, again, it's all about, I think this is, you know, this feels like the year of the palate cleansers, the things that are refreshing, right?
25:06And I think, you know, FC continues to do that stuff. And, you know, to their credit, this is not new, right? They've been kind of doing this all along, and I think that's where maybe hearing about the sales performance is this is where it's paying off. But they're kind of continuing to be here and stick around and gain credibility both with the enthusiast audience. Neil just told us before. They talk about their manufacturer products, the manufacturer, like all the time, but that's not most of the volume. But at the same time, a manufacturer product, the World Timer, you told me they're making over 3 ,000 of those this year.
25:43That's not an insignificant volume for a watch at that price. It's a great, great product. It's a really nice watch. And just continuing with FC from Alpina, we saw new editions of the Star Timer and the Xtreme. Talking about the synergies with La Jouperet, with the Star Timer Pilot. They are using now a solar-powered quartz movement, and we've seen La Joupere provide that movement to Tag Heuer in the past. They had an exclusive, and now we're going to, I think, start seeing that a lot in a whole bunch of brands, including Frédéric Constant, I think, as well. Tanton, we saw Bulgari together today, and it was interesting for me.
26:32is that the Vianney Halter, Dr. Finissimo, I did not think I was going to like this watch much. And man, what a great watch. Sometimes I question the value of my taste sometimes in watches. You've got great taste. I like some weird stuff out there, right? But I think Tim, I think, heard me in the office when we first got that press release. And I basically screamed like, whoa you know in the office and i thought it was like this is cool right and you know not everybody thought the same way that i did certainly but seeing it in person today i think to me you know again whether you care about the aesthetics or not you know halter's aesthetic is so specific in in you know and there's a reason why this is real the halter aesthetic this is so halter but to me whether you care about that or not i think it's undeniable that this was one of the greatest exercises in collaboration from a product design perspective.
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27:33You know, I think this is a watch where, you know, obviously this is built on the, the sort of like GMT Octo Finissimo platform, right. But in, in sort of porthole steampunk Antiqua aesthetics from Halter, but it is so obvious that it's a Bulgari and it is so obvious that it's a Halter, you know, And I think there's very, very few times can you say that about a collaborative sort of design project. And I think this is where that succeeds so much for me. And I have to say, as you experience trying this thing on in person, it rocks. It is, for how obnoxious basically the design is, it works well on the wrist.
28:18It looks natural and cohesive, and it just feels really good. But listen, I mean, you know, they don't – no one's caring about my opinion. These are all pre-allocated, right? You know, I believe 30 in titanium, 15 in gold. You know, they're very expensive and, you know, already very sought after. So they're not sweating over there. But man, like it was such a joy to see. Again, like going back to the palate cleanser thing, like that was just fun. And, you know, in a sort of in an era where prices for everything are so high, you know, from from independence to, you know, the the sort of big brands and the, you know, all of the Holy Trinity.
28:57I just think that this was such a fun thing to see. And it's, you know, I mean, it is unobtainium, you know, in sort of every sense of the term. But like I almost don't care. Right. Because it's just cool that someone spent three years, I believe, working on this. Right. And that's that's just damn fun. So again, for me, this was one of those things where I liked it when I first read about it, and I loved it once I got to see it in person. And a shame, Tim, you didn't get to see it. Why are you rubbing it in, Tantan? I already had big FOMO. And then when I saw the photos and I talked to y 'all after, I was like, really?
29:33But even like, you know, I did hear you audibly gasp in the office when it came out. And looking at your photos, I'm in here and you talk about it. Like, what a strong release. And like maybe I'll ask a question here. It's like, when is the last time y 'all have seen a collaboration that is equal parts both brands? This is the intention and this is what one should strive for in collaboration. Collaborations have become so ubiquitous and so just, you know, matter of fact and unsurprising. This is a really good example of how to do collaboration, right? Because as you say, you look at that as a halter and it sure as heck is an octophenissimo as well.
30:18But one we haven't seen before. No. And again, I also think that this is, you know, just such a great example of the Octo Finissimo being such a wonderful platform, right? And a canvas for these iterations. I mean, they've done so many cool, bizarre, weird projects with artists. You know, like one of my favorites is obviously the Tadalando series. And, you know, when that first came out, I always said, I think it just projected such confidence on that Tadal Ando Octofinissimo collab that Bulgari took their name off the dial. Because you know it's a Bulgari Octofinissimo. You look at the dial and you know it's Tadal Ando.
30:55And, like, that's – there's a sort of confidence exuded by these collaborations, especially from Bulgari, that I think, again, Fabrizio is doing just a wonderful job. And, I mean, commercially it also speaks, you know, volumes about the performance. But yeah, it just like, it was so, it made me very happy, which, you know, honestly, it was very good to see. I think that's kind of been the theme of the show. You know, we've had some great meetings. Like I love the, you know, we've been talking about palate cleansers throughout the week. Like that's one of the, this is both Tantan and Mai's first Geneva watches.
31:28And I think that we both agreed that like, this is, it's so refreshing. It's so, it's so nice. I mean, we love watches and wonders. It's a lot of work, but we love it, of course. but it's I think this watch exemplifies like the ethos of the show. It's fun, we're out and about, it's a great collaboration it's a little bit unexpected but it works and I think that that's really special and I'm just, I can't wait to see it I'm bummed I wasn't there to join you too. Too fine, gentlemen. You were at Girard Perregaux when we were at Bvlgari you would have seen the L 'Oreato 50 Tourbillon micro rotor 39 millimeter.
32:09That's a handsome watch. I got to see it last weekend driving around in the mountains. What were you driving around in, Andy? Magnum's car. Oh, okay. Okay. All right. It wasn't actually Magnum's car, but it was the same. That was pretty cool. But anyway. I heard you had a nice time. I had fun. I had fun. But yeah. What did you think of the Joie Perigo stuff when you saw it? I enjoyed it. You know, 39 millimeter, you know, normally I like the GP blue, but I feel like with the tour beyond the rose gold really popped for me. Like especially in the new beautiful GP boutique right here on the lakeside, light was good.
32:53And I opted for the rose gold and I was speaking with Mark, the managing director. Yeah, the very kind and gracious host at my appointment, he was saying that I wasn't alone in my sentiment. People have been favoring that rose gold. I think it just pops. It just works really well with the tourbillon. A lot of great design elements hearkening back to many years of the bridge and the tourbillon case. So I was a big fan, but in 39, wore pretty well my wrist. I have a pretty small wrist. And so I put it on and yeah, it felt right at home there. And so I think, you know, a pretty strong release and a great way that they just opened a new boutique here in Geneva.
33:38They did. So a great way to kind of break that in and big fan. Yeah. Did you like that? I haven't seen the, I've seen the construction site and talked to the people building it. How did the boutique hit for you? It's beautiful. It's beautiful. It's very welcoming, you know, right. you'd go in right off the street and a lot of light uh it was a beautiful sunny day here in geneva and uh yeah i enjoyed it um you know one of the little small uh design features on the movement is the the the watchmaker that worked on it engraves their initials on the on the bridge there or sorry not on the bridge but on on the main plate and uh i just love that and so it's like little fun little easter egg that uh we experienced a little bit earlier in a different away a few months ago with Tantan, but I love that.
34:24And I think that the sense of pride that they have there is fantastic. Yeah. Yeah, absolutely. I mean, you know, and Joraparego is a great historic brand. And, you know, I think a few years ago during the boom, you know, they couldn't make enough Laureatos. Like much of the industry, they're, you know, happy to work harder to sell more watches. And they are sort of delivering in terms of, you know, producing higher quality and more focused stuff. And it's interesting. They're really starting to explore. They actually have a great kind of partly unknown history with motorsports. So we'll be sort of exploring that more as the year goes on.
35:08So stay tuned for that. Let's move on. Do you want to talk about Oris or maybe Doxa? Tell me. Ooh, let's talk about Oris. Okay. Mr. Muppets. It is I, Mr. Muppets. We knew Tantan was going to think of Oris when you asked him that question. Come on. Yeah. I mean, this is the third edition that Oris has done with the Muppets, and there's pretty much no other brand that that collaboration quite makes sense with, right? I think Oris has always been a bit silly intentionally in its sort of philosophy. Not so serious. Not so serious. And they've really sort of tripled down, if you will, here. Obviously, this year, it's all about the great Gonzo, you know.
35:53Shout out Gonzo. A Muppet of unspecified origin, which is the great big debate, you know, that everyone's carried for many decades now. What's your—OK, you're—I grew up watching the Muppets. It's the Muppet show, but I mean, tell me, what has gone to? It's so fun. Because you are a true Muppets fan and freak. Listen, that's the, I mean. Wow, wow, Andy. Okay, all right. Listen, he calls it like he sees it, you know. Straightforward. I am the only person at this company that's been to every single permanent exhibition dedicated to Jim Henson. How many is that? There's only two. That's all of them.
36:34Yeah, and if anyone listening is also a Muppets fan, I'd highly recommend you check out. There's the Jim Henson exhibition in the Museum of Moving Image in Astoria in New York. And there's also the Museum, the Center for Puppetry Arts in Atlanta, Georgia. And actually, if you remember the Jim Henson studio that John Mayer had just purchased in L.A., the sort of the old Charlie – original Charlie Chaplin studio that eventually became the Jim Henson headquarters. There was – if you drive by in L.A., you'll always recognize there was this giant Kermit the Frog on the top of the studio wearing a Charlie Chaplin uniform.
37:10And so after John Mayer had purchased this, obviously, that was clearly going away. but now recently they just announced that that is actually moving to Atlanta and being placed on the building for the Center of Puppetry Arts. So I just wasted, you know, a few minutes of your precious time talking about nothing about watches. I knew that, but talking about the Muppets. Sam doing a tight five on your bingo card. You can just check that right off right now. Yeah, take a shot. But anyway, you know, this is a very big pivot for them. You know, they haven't done, you know, for the three that they've done with the Muppets, none of the products are the same.
37:45even though they've been within the ProPilot X family, right? The Kermit was the ProPilot X caliber 400. I think during a time when Aorus is really doubling down on caliber 400, right? I think they've sort of stepped back a little bit and let a little more of the Sellita-based product shine. So then the Miss Piggy came along and it was, you know, a 28 millimeter, very small, you know, very plainly targeted for women sort of watch. And then this was a surprise. This was a caliber 115, which is Oris's sort of in-house, hand-winding, 10-day power reserve skeletonized movement, right? So just a very different way to go.
38:22This is also a much larger watch. I believe it is 42 or 43 millimeters, something along those lines. It's definitely bigger. It's much larger than the regular ProPilot X. And, you know, the way they've done it is they've given the bridges sort of a gonzo color scheme. There was a chili pepper as a power reserve indicator as an homage to – and no one talks about Gonzo's fashion is like – fashion sense is amazing. Like those Jim Henson Studios people, like they were giving them some great outfits. But anyway, I digress. If you wind sort of the mainspring all the way to the 10 days of power reserve, you sort of see Gonzo's face appear as it's sort of etched on every little bit of the edge of this mainspring.
39:06And, you know, it's a very subtle way of doing this. I think every time they've created this Muppets edition, everyone's been like, I want to see more of the Muppets. And they kind of, you know, they kind of tease you with not really. But as a result, though, I think, you know, they've created something entirely different. It's unfortunately, it is a lot more expensive than the other editions we've seen. This is a over 10 ,000 US dollar watch. You know, the base 115 ProPilot X was around the same price. So it's not, you know, it's not a huge markup per se, but it's kind of bold, I would say, to release a significantly larger and significantly more expensive Muppets themed Aorus.
39:47That is, you know, I think a very hard thing to imagine as a sort of, you know, if you're in the drawing board, you know, phase of this to reach that conclusion is kind of interesting to me. But, you know, general reactions have been largely positive, which is actually much more surprising than I thought, right? I think maybe most of the feedback I've seen is, you know, everything is lovely except for the price. Less people have complained about the size than I would have imagined. but yes, it's an interesting watch certainly not for everyone and maybe even less so than the other editions but as sort of non-Muppets fans I'm curious what you guys think of such a thing I prefer for me the Kermit of the Muppets watches but I think just simply it's a little big for me I've got a small wrist but I do love the subtle nod to Mr.
40:42Gonzo himself on the Is it Mr.? You know, well, we call him the great Gonzo. Excuse me. Mr. Gonzo also works. A nod to Gonzo himself there. But yeah, a little big for me, but I do appreciate the sentiment. And I do love and I completely agree with the fact that Oris is the brand do this out of collaboration. Yeah. Yeah, yeah, for sure. I really enjoyed it and was surprised and was really happy to see in person that 29mm pointer date with that black dial. That's a pretty little watch and just classic. I think what Auris has kind of done well with that kind of stuff in recent years is, you know, I looked at that watch and I think I said this in front of you and you guys and Rolf.
41:30Rolf the… The CEO, not the talking dog. Yeah. Um, that, um, you know, something just so charming about that, that small sort of pointer date is that it almost feels like you could have found that at a vintage watch dealer or, you know, at, in someone's, you know, old collection. And I kind of love that. There's something classic, really almost timeless about that kind of stuff that they're pursuing. Um, and I don't think they get enough credit for that? Yeah. I mean, and AORUS, you know, it's interesting. We've, I think, you know, a theme though here that we've been talking about is about value and sort of, you know, other than Bulgari, really talking about sort of entry and mid-level sort of stuff.
42:17And AORUS, you know, in reaction to the shifts in the market is really, as you say, leaned into that, you know, more of the Solita-based stuff as opposed to the Caliber 400 and trying to meet the customer where they are at this time. So, yeah, no, I think we love Oris, and they always continue to surprise and do great stuff, and they're great folks, and it's always fun in their suite at the Beau Rivage, so for sure. And then we saw Doxa today. You know, my reaction there, I mean, and Doxa just kind of, it's interesting. I wanted you to talk about, like, Tintin, because I know you're a bit of a fan, And like how it is amazing how Doxa just keeps coming out with sort of new collections and new stuff.
43:02And you're just like, yeah, I mean, maybe I'm not done with Doxa. This is like another reason to buy yet another. I mean, but, you know, that 300 in titanium, that case, and I, you know, just got my first Doxa, the Doxa 200T Army, the Hodinkee edition, which I'm super happy about and love. But man, this titanium. Is it a double Doxa summer for Andy? I mean, did I think about, you know, maybe wanting to buy one of the orange, you know, professionals right after that meeting? Maybe. I don't know. I think there's this unique phenomenon. Look, like Doxa is a brand where if you don't sort of get it or you don't really, it doesn't appeal to you, you really don't like it.
43:49Right. I think it's just like you don't care about it unless you do, you know, which is kind of a silly statement to make. But I think it's, you know, it's one of those brands where you have to be sort of be a part of that enthusiast mindset with, you know, their design. It's very specific, obviously, with the cushion cases and whatnot. But I was musing about this theory that I kind of came up with, which is that Doxa has almost cultivated this unique sort of phenomenon where if in any other brand you would be saying, hey, I'm going to buy basically the same watch in maybe a slightly smaller or slightly bigger case.
44:26but it's the same case design. It's the same bezel design. It's the same bracelet and strap designs. And the dials are all the same. And in the same color sets, you would be out of your mind, right? Like you'd be like, what the hell are you on? And yet, like, I don't know when I go into a room full of, you know, doxxas, that mindset just gets abandoned. I throw it to the wayside. I'm like, yeah, I could buy, like, I could, I could see myself owning a suitcase of these. I definitely get into an abundance mindset when I think of Doxa. Yeah, it's weird. And like, like, it's so such an irrational thing, right?
45:03Because it's like, in logic, this just doesn't make any sense. And yet, this is what I guess makes us a little giddy about Doxa sometimes. But that product is so solid. I mean, you know, obviously, a lot of people want to see a full titanium bracelet. But I think it's very clear that that would shoot up the price to a point where not many people would want to pay for a doc set like this. But, you know, again, there's something about the slightly larger 300 case, but mixed with the ultra lightness of titanium where, you know, Andy, you and I, and even Tim, you know, we don't have the largest wrists, right?
45:37Certainly not on the team. And yet, I think for us, even though we enjoy sort of the 200, the smaller 200 case, something about the lightness of this 300 works so well. Yeah. Right. It feels so good and quite proper. And maybe it's also because it's on a strap that doesn't flare out and drops immediately down because it doesn't come on the integrated strap. It comes on the sort of tropic style, if you will. Because I'm sure machining a titanium ratcheting class would also add an insane amount to the cost. So that's, I think, the decision there. But this seems like something people have been asking for for a while now.
46:16For me, as you were talking, I was reflecting, why is it that we... And it speaks to Doxa's level of, I think, just marketing and knowing themselves and being able to deliver... Obviously, they do the LE, the Clive Cluster, just one watch, but this is an array of colors, five colors. and I gotta say, now I like, for me personally, I prefer the blue, but I could see myself in every single one of them. And, and I, it's very rare for me to go into a meeting or whatever that have multiple colors, two, maybe three, definitely not five. And be like, I want all of these. Like, what is it about Doxa that does that to us?
47:03I'm not going to say me to us. Like, you're not the only one that wanted Doxa. I got my first Doxa a couple of weeks ago as well. Same watch. And you know what I say to that? God damn it, James Stacey. It's all James. God damn it, James Stacey. Well, I wore a Doxa for a weekend with James at his cottage and I was sold on it then. And it just strikes a chord. And if you get it, you get it. And I feel like if you don't get Put one on and then find your favorite color, put it on for a weekend, and then tell me you don't love that thing. Seriously. Yep. Speaking of maybe the complete polar opposite of sort of things coming in very similar shapes and sizes, I think something interesting that we also saw was the new Mad 3, right?
47:54Exactly. I was just going to bring that up, which you wrote up and you actually went hands-on with, Yeah, I got to have a pretty interesting in-depth conversation with Max while we were there. And it's just fascinating to me from a business perspective what MB &F has sort of done with the Mad Editions. But at the same time, they will tell you, and I believe them, that this was not a business move. This was a creative challenge that they had to compete in that sort of entry level or mid-level price point. But yeah, talk about the MADD3 edition. I mean, you know, we start reading patterns, you know, after we get sort of three, you know, data points here.
48:43And, you know, there's a lot of big takeaways, you know. And before we get to those, obviously, just explain a little about the background. This is a little different from the first two, or rather a lot different in the sense that this is a watchmaker that hadn't really been involved in anything MB &F before. The first one was obviously Max Boosters. The second one was Eric Jarouds. And this is a tribute. Long-time collaborating designer. Yeah, like people that have designed cases. Eric has his hands behind a lot of MB &F since its conception. But this is a tribute and collaboration to a watchmaker called Vincent Calabrese.
49:26And, you know, I think what's interesting is this guy's a legend, right, in the watchmaking community. But he's not a household name in the way that a lot of the other greats are. This guy co-founded the AHCI was Sven Anderson. You know, this guy is the one behind their sort of iconic Coram Golden Bridge movement. You know, that is one of the most iconic sort of movements, you know, anyone's ever seen. Quorum's working hard to make it relevant again and we'll see how they do. Godspeed to them. But he's done a lot of work in the past that honestly I think just hasn't gotten the same limelight that a lot of other people have.
50:04And what this specific watch is is a tribute to his model called the Balladon, which is a wandering John Bowers watch. And, you know, I think what's also interesting is that this is so similar to the Balladon, right? You know, of course, there's a lot of sort of modernization that comes into play. There's a lot of small, very MB &F twists. But from afar, it looks really similar. Those dials are almost entirely the same. And I think that's very curious because the first two editions, well, you know, they have very distinct design identities. Those were new creations, right? This feels so different because it's the least original thing we've seen from this brand so far.
50:46And, you know, what that also does mean is this is by far the most wearable and the most sort of conventional watch we've seen, right? Conventional, yeah. And in my hands-on, my thesis, so to speak, is that there is an inverse proportion to how crazy the Mad Editions are and actually how commercially popular they are. And I think that's been proven, again, with this, which they've been very open. They haven't shared numbers, but they basically said this is by far the biggest Mad Editions launch in terms of raffle signups they've seen. And I think that's a pretty big takeaway, right? Where, you know, obviously I was a little disappointed initially because it doesn't have the same, you know, lining a bottle.
51:32Oh, I've never seen this from, you know, you know, like, you know, if there's anything to ding against the watch is that this one is one that feels like maybe another brand could have also done similarly. Right. But that also means that this is by far the most wearable thing. And, you know, people love it. The people that like the Mad 1 obviously maybe feel like it's a little safer. But otherwise, I mean, you guys also had a chance, I think, to briefly see it. But it's a cool thing. Again, what they're doing is they're showing that this is a platform, not a design identity. This is not a horological machine collection where they're going for space-age aesthetics and whatnot.
52:15This is just, we will do anything but the common link is the price point, right? Every single Mad Editions has been 2 ,900 CHF. And, you know, obviously for us Americans, it's kind of painful because - That's kind of changed me. We remember what those converted to in USD, you know, a few years back, but, you know, from the Swiss side, that's been the same. And I think this is why it's been so successful and a big revenue driver for MB &F, right? Absolutely, a big revenue driver, but also, but what they're trying also, and, you know, in our discussions, They were saying, though, is like, you know, and we were speaking to the other Macs, the new designer who we'll be hearing more and more about over the years and we'll have to take more of a hand.
52:57But, you know, this is actually more of a challenge, obviously. It's more of a design challenge. With an HM, you can kind of go wherever you want. And here there are parameters, particularly with price. And so that makes it – and so the only thing I think from their perspective is indeed the demand is growing and the viability of mad additions is being more and more proven. But if there's a concern there, it's how much kind of time their man hours work that they're all spending on this stuff because it's not easy. It takes a lot of creative design time and thought to do it. I think for me, you know, we are in the business of watches podcast.
53:43So I want to come at this from a business lens. I think that the whole concept of the Mad Editions is absolutely genius. Like it's really smart. Obviously, you know, you get allocated one first if you've bought an NBNF in previous, but there is a raffle, right? And so you see, you know, if you're NBNF curious, you can maybe opt in for the raffle. get one and then like get it on the wrist for a while and see see how you like it and then and then potentially maybe upgrade to something else you know bigger down the line and i think it's really really smart this is a really smart business model and i think that in speaking with the brand um i think this one specifically with the overwhelming demand for number three is like all right they're on to something here and and obviously you know maybe a little more reserved in the design than previous models, but I think that maybe that's by intention, right?
54:40And it's like, okay, we want to see in mass how many folks that we can get, just because we want to bring more people into the ecosystem. And it's like, runs are very limited with MB &F. And if I love the brand, maybe this is a great entry point at 5K Swiss francs. I think it's a really interesting business model. And I'm curious to see maybe first and foremost, if it'll be another few years before we see the next one of these? Well, I think we're going to see more soon. I think this is going to be a more regular thing. And I think we're going to start to see real shifts in terms of design and maybe we'll start seeing some different K-shapes.
55:22Yeah, that'll be cool. Yeah, I mean, I think it's actually going to go in some really interesting places. And then, as you say, on the MB &S side, if anything, they make about 400 watches a year, right? And they're not looking to grow that, those volume numbers. And if anything, they're, you know, thinking about ways to keep it there or maybe even cut it. But, you know, they're not going to do that. I think it's going to stay where it is. But, I mean, indeed, yeah, it's really interesting. It's really just, yeah, as you say, you know, it's surprising. And we do always want to see, well, what have they done here?
55:57And, yeah, there's going to be more. It's going to continue. Look, gents, we've been doing this for about an hour. Let's wrap this up, but we got to talk about a brand that I guess wasn't, you know, in a launch that wasn't officially part of Geneva Watch Days, but that is the new edition of the Tudor North Flag, which we found out it's now one word, but also has a GMT. We got to spend some time with the folks at Tudor at the boutique and, you know, take a look at the new model and go hands-on with it and also, you know, compare it to the model from 2015, which is a really important piece for Tudor.
56:36And, you know, and the pricing, I think of the Swiss pricing is 4 ,500 Swiss francs for this. You know, that's kind of aggressive in terms of the value there. Yeah. Tell me your takeaways, your thoughts. First of all, I didn't know Northlight was one word. Because it wasn't before, but now it is. Yeah, it was two words, capital N, capital F. And then that was the first thing I noticed when I saw the first image. I was like, what the hell? Like, am I hallucinating or is this? And then, yeah, it turns out they changed it. They changed it. You know, I think it's a nice evolution from the initial one in 2015.
57:14Obviously, the big power reserve indicator. I don't think. I love the inclusion of the GMT versus that. A little big for me personally. Again, I got this felt wrist size. I got to be protective over that. And I wish I could wear more, but I can't. But I do like the evolution of there. I think it's interesting just to see them do this now. I couldn't have predicted this coming out, honestly. I don't really have much more to say other than that. Yeah. Yeah, like I, you know, for me, I think I hold a very maybe skewed opinion because I've gotten so close to buying that original North Flag so many times.
57:51It was actually my first ever tutor. I was debating between the North Flag and the Pelagos, and the Pelagos ended up winning. But I love the original North Flag because to me, it was like a cyberpunk role like explorer you know it was sort of this weird you know obviously they cite you know they cite the ranger 2 the 2 to ranger 2 is the inspiration but you know like it's very different right like ranger 2 didn't have 369 you know it did not no and so you know i think the new north flag or do i have to say it faster now that it's one word north north North flag? Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's the new North flag, yeah.
58:30It feels a little safer as a more, I think, broader commercial play than the first one. The first one was weird when it came out, right? And, you know, not only was it, I believe, the first modern tutor to have an open case back showing off the Kinesi movement. Because it was the first tutor to have an in-house made movement. That's right. That would make sense. It was that, you know, obviously the power reserve. And, you know, for me, the weirdest thing was the sort of ceramic ring around the bezel, not on the bezel, around the bezel, right? Almost like a cone or a volcano of sorts. But this, you know, loses a lot of that quirkiness, right, for I think what is a broader commercial play.
59:12And I think it excites me less because it's not as bizarre as the first North Flag, so to speak. But at the same time, I can totally see this appealing to Wimber people, like you said. this is the same GMT movement that's used in the FxD, the Pelagos FxD GMT. And so this is, I think, just a more, you know, not everyone likes fixed lugs and a, and sort of a bulky strap, you know, on top of that. And I think this on the sort of integrated bracelet is, is very much a play for the other side of people that want sort of a modern Tudor rendition of a, of a traveler's watch. So, so all that being said, you know, again, like, you know, a lot of the visual cues, the yellow, I always love the yellow.
59:55I think it's a great play. That's, that's just in quotes, not orange, right. And I think orange, you know, a lot of brands love doing that, but yellow is sort of a, um, slept on color. Yeah. Things are great. I don't like the new North flag name. It needed a space in there and that's going to bother me to the end of time. Um, unfortunately, and I'm, I'm working on a hands-on sort of as we speak. So I'm sitting with my thoughts kind of, you know, thinking a little bit more on it. But again, I think in the same way that I, I'm less excited because of, I liked how weird the first one was in that same vein.
1:00:28I see so many more people being more excited about this one because it's a much more sort of digestible watch. So, yeah, I mean, I think that sort of puts a, a, a dot on the, on the whole thing we've been talking about, which is, you know, more commercial, pretty aggressive pricing in terms of appealing to a wider audience, making sure that we're selling watches. But yeah, I mean, you know, I've always loved the North flag and concept and in what it was trying to do. And, you know, this is, this is still a North flag and it's still cool. And, but yeah, it's a little, it's a little more thoughtful in terms of commercial appeal.
1:01:06And, and I think they'll do, they'll do just fine with it. And yeah, I mean, I've been on the record about my thoughts about yellow, but, but I mean, you know, You're pro-Bumblebee.
1:01:20He likes to see the guts get ripped out after the stater. It's basically what Andy's trying to say. Got it. I'm Team Orange. But, you know, look, it's great to see Tudor, though, you know, taking swings and doing New 7. Man, you know, there's just a lot of choice there now. And, you know, we're going to see more. So, yeah, it's been, you know, we've still got some more stuff to do tomorrow. We're going to see Ming and all those folks from the, what do we call their? The Alternative Horological Alliance. The Alternative Horological Alliance, indeed. And so that's going to be really fun. But, yeah, it's been fantastic to have you guys on the Business of Watches podcast.
1:02:05And, yeah, that was great. And it's been fun to do this this week. And thanks for coming on. Thanks, Andy. Thanks for having us. Fondue time. It is, believe it or not, yes, at the end of August, beginning of September. It's fondue time.
1:02:27And that's the business of watches for this episode. We hope you enjoyed. Please head on over to Hodinkee.com where you can join the discussion and leave any comments or questions about this episode or the business of watches in general. Who knows? We might even answer your question on a future episode. Thanks for listening and see you next time.
1:03:10Thank you.
From the publisher
This week on The Business of Watches, a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't from the slew of novelties presented during the event.
We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes.
We also talk Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F and the latest MADEditions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor.
Show Notes:
0:30 Tim Jeffreys
0:32 TanTan Wang
5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee)
5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichrons (Hodinkee)
8:44 Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO (Hodinkee)
11:30 Breitling To Relaunch Gallet Confirming Ambitions To Become Multi-Brand Watchmaker (Hodinkee)
12:55 Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis (Hodinkee)
22:30 Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding (Hodinkee)
30:45 Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Ref. 103534 (Hodinkee)
32:38 Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 (Hodinkee)
35:50 Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
41:19 Introducing: Oris' Big Crown Pointer Date Goes Small With A New 29mm Version (Hodinkee)
43:15 IntroducingThe Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 (Hodinkee)
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-300-ti5
48:30 Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese (Hodinkee)
56:19 Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time (Hodinkee)




