In short
Arda Biomaterials’ animal-free, plastic-free “leather” made from waste grain from brewers and distillers; the episode covers TJ Mitchell’s path from chemistry PhD to deep-tech entrepreneurship, how the technology works (protein extraction, self-assembly, additives), and the scaling challenge from kitchen prototypes to roll-to-roll production.
Guest backgrounds
Dr. Edward “TJ” Mitchell (co-founder, CTO) has a chemistry research PhD on sensors for long-term radioactive waste; he met co-founder Brett Cotton via Entrepreneurs First. Brett Cotton is CEO, from New Jersey, with biochemistry background, biotech enterprise training at Cambridge, and startup business-development experience.
Key claims
Waste grain is ~25% protein and is undervalued; leather alternatives can replace both “pleather” and chrome-tanned leather. EU deforestation and end-of-life plastic policies will raise pressure/prices. Their material is animal- and plastic-free and targets luxury fashion.
Notable examples
a Budweiser-made card holder; prototypes “like flapjacks”; whiskey-holder product; plans for a Bermondsey pilot site and future conveyor/roll-to-roll production (24 hours down toward ~30 minutes).
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOIntroducing TJ Mitchell and Arda Biomaterials
0:46 to 1:41
James Reed introduces Dr. Edward 'TJ' Mitchell and his company focused on sustainable leather alternatives.
“In this episode, we discuss the journey from scientist to entrepreneur, the challenges of building a deep tech startup, and the potential for new materials to transform the way products are made.”
The Journey from Scientist to Entrepreneur
1:42 to 2:50
TJ shares his transition from academic research to entrepreneurship and the motivations behind it.
“So I had to grow up as Teddy Joe, Joseph being my middle name.”
Discovering Opportunities in Waste Valorization
2:51 to 4:06
Discussion on how TJ and his co-founder identified a business opportunity using waste products from breweries.
“I think the first thing is my PhD research was nothing to do with this.”
Entrepreneur First: A Unique Program for Founders
4:07 to 5:15
TJ explains the structure of the Entrepreneur First program and its role in his startup journey.
“Yeah, so there's quite a few of these programs.”
Meeting the Co-Founder and Building a Team
5:16 to 7:40
How TJ met his co-founder and the importance of collaboration in their startup journey.
“It's not much, but coming from a PhD, it was more than a PhD.”
Challenges in the Brewing Industry: A Resource Assessment
7:41 to 9:05
Discussion on the challenges faced by brewers and how their waste can be reused effectively.
“into business, but want to keep their foot still on the scientific side.”
Exploring Protein-Based Materials
9:17 to 14:00
TJ discusses the various protein-based materials and their potential as sustainable alternatives.
“So you started this conversation, this dance with your co-founder, and you obviously came to a view that this was a good opportunity to try.”
Exploring Plant-Based Leather Alternatives
14:00 to 16:44
Learn about the innovative use of plant-based proteins to create sustainable leather alternatives.
“There's kind of variability in the feedstock as well that can knock on, have knock on implications.”
The Journey of Prototyping
16:44 to 18:48
Discover the challenges and evolution of creating a new type of leather from spent grain.
“We've done a couple of things like tennis racket holders.”
Building Relationships with Breweries
18:48 to 20:56
Understand the importance of collaboration with breweries in sourcing materials for sustainable products.
“Colonel dug their feet in and said, we're going to stay independent.”
Show all 27 chapters
The Transition from Science to Entrepreneurship
20:56 to 23:28
Hear about the mindset shift required when moving from academic research to leading a startup.
“And actually, the research for this was started in the 1920s.”
Navigating University Resources for Startups
23:28 to 26:19
Get insights on how universities can support aspiring entrepreneurs and the challenges they face.
“I think one of the big issues is there are so many PhD students or postdocs who have ideas, but they just don't know where to start.”
From Grain to Leather: The Production Process
26:19 to 28:00
Learn about the innovative process of turning spent grain into a leather-like material.
“Can you do your best to explain to me how the jar of spent grain is turned into what looks like a nice piece of leather?”
The Process of Creating New Materials
28:00 to 29:09
Learn about the unique process of extracting protein to create a new material for fashion.
“and become a single fiber, a molecular fiber.”
Patents and Intellectual Property
29:10 to 30:19
Discover the importance of patents in supporting business and attracting investors.
“Oh, so none of ours have actually been completely filed.”
Industry Interest and Market Opportunities
30:20 to 31:58
Explore how various industries are interested in sustainable alternatives to leather.
“As long as possible, I suppose, if you can.”
Scaling Production Challenges
31:59 to 32:56
Understand the challenges and strategies involved in scaling up production of new materials.
“You might be able to do it cheaper even.”
Collaboration with Breweries for Production
32:57 to 34:48
Learn how partnerships with breweries can facilitate material production sustainably.
“And actually, now it's taking me far from my expertise.”
Transitioning to a Wholesaler Model
34:49 to 36:05
Discover the shift towards becoming a wholesaler of the new material called 'New Grain'.
“So you're going to do that somewhere in the UK, I hope.”
Advantages and Challenges of Young Entrepreneurs
36:06 to 38:49
Examine the unique challenges and advantages faced by young entrepreneurs in the business world.
“There was one company that did hit the market, and they were making a rubber-based material.”
Future Vision and Product Development
38:50 to 41:36
Discuss the long-term vision for the company and the potential for innovative materials.
“that sort of thing um i think it was quite difficult i guess there's a lot of learnings all the time, especially in a company structure.”
Fundraising and Scaling Up Operations
41:37 to 42:05
Learn about the fundraising efforts needed to scale operations and meet customer demand.
“So young people are seeing it seems like at least lots of possible options.”
Scaling Up the Business
42:05 to 43:10
Learn about the challenges and goals TJ faces in scaling his business.
“yeah the ballpark of 10 million and that allows us to get this pilot facility online right so So that's your next step.”
Networking for Success
43:11 to 44:06
TJ shares his insights on networking and community engagement for entrepreneurs.
“I think this is a really exciting new business.”
Finding Business Partners
44:07 to 44:37
Discussion about the Y Combinator app for finding business partners.
“which I know people have found business partners through.”
Motivation on Mondays
44:43 to 45:34
TJ shares what motivates him to start his week and his favorite breakfast.
Future Aspirations
45:35 to 46:14
TJ discusses his vision for the future and growth of his company.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00Welcome to All About Business with me, James Reed, the podcast that covers everything about business, management and leadership. Every episode, I sit down with different guests who bootstrap companies, masterminded investment models or built a business empire. They're leaders in their field and they're here to give you top insights and actionable advice so that you can apply their ideas to your own career or business venture. Today on All About Business, I'm joined by Dr. Edward Mitchell, co-founder and chief technology officer of Arda Biomaterials, a startup developing animal and plastic-free leather alternatives made from waste grain produced by brewers and distillers.
0:46In this episode, we discuss the journey from scientist to entrepreneur, the challenges of building a deep tech startup, and the potential for new materials to transform the way products are made. Today on All About Business, I'm delighted to welcome Dr. Edward Mitchell, otherwise known as TJ Mitchell. He's the founder, or I should say co-founder and chief technology officer of Arda Biomaterials. This is a London-based biomaterials startup that creates animal-free and plastic-free leather alternatives. some of which are in front of you here on our table tj um you've done this i think this is a wonderful story i don't want to say too much in the introduction because i'd like you to explain why you've gone along the road you have and why you make the product in the way you do but let's begin with why tj yeah it's a good question uh well first of all thank you very much for having me here yeah tj is a weird one um it's my dad's side of the family still call me edward but pretty much everyone else calls me tj and it's when i was born my parents separated and i grew up with my mom and my mom's side of the family are all scottish and my scottish granddad refused to have a grandchild by the name of edward because it's so english so i edward hammer of the scots exactly exactly the king yeah so no one's called edward in scotland no well there must be there must be i didn't know that so tj was the preference yeah so short for Edward is Teddy.
2:20So I had to grow up as Teddy Joe, Joseph being my middle name. And Teddy Joe, not a name you want to be called at school. You get picked on for being called Teddy. So quickly became TJ. So TJ was a survival strategy in Scotland at the time. Yeah. Well, unfortunately it paid off. Yeah. Which brings you here today. I didn't grow up in Scotland. I'm actually from Cheshire, Warrington. So there's different levels to it but yeah if you visited your grandparents at least yeah so well i'd like to start by exploring the beginnings of arda you know you have a background in chemistry research um what led you to explore the idea of turning waste grain from brewing which is i believe what you do and and distilling waste grain into new materials how did you end up doing that yeah it's um there's so much serendipity across the whole journey to get here.
3:12I think the first thing is my PhD research was nothing to do with this. I was actually developing sensors for long-term radioactive waste storage, and it went fairly well. We patented the technology. We were looking at potentially startup space, but it wasn't for me really four years of intense lab-based research on that. I just wanted to get away from it. And the question was, what would I do after I finished my PhD? and I'd seen so many of my peers struggle to really find themselves with a stable position in academia. I also didn't really want to be in a lab too much longer. I looked at some friends who'd gone into consulting and their careers on paper were great, but they were looking for their next move in their career.
3:54They were actually quite fed up of consulting. So I looked around, I looked for different opportunities and I saw this program called Entrepreneurs First. So I'm not sure whether you're familiar with the program. I'm aware of it, but tell us what it is. Yeah, so there's quite a few of these programs. There's Zinc, there's Antler, there's Carbon 13 as Entrepreneurs First. Essentially, it's kind of like Love Island meets Dragon's Den. They bring in maybe 80 people, half the people are commercial types, half the people are technical types, and you have to meet and match up to find a business partner.
4:28If you don't find someone, you get kicked off the program. If you do, you have an opportunity to pitch your investment. And so it's for those who don't necessarily have an idea already, but you go in potentially wanting to start your entrepreneurship journey and find a co-founder. And it was during this program that essentially we invented the technology behind what we're doing. So hang on. So you went to an event organized by entrepreneurs first. So you met your business partner or co-founder at that event? Yeah. So it's a six-month program. So you apply to it and everyone has to quit their jobs.
5:01So you've got your CEO types joining. So they're the more commercial side, the 40 commercial people. Bankers, private equity, consultants, people from various industries. They have to quit their jobs. They have to quit their job. That's part of the deal. You get paid to be part of the program. Right. It's not much, but coming from a PhD, it was more than a PhD. Right. But it's probably not more than being a consultant. Oh, it's definitely not. It's barely anything really. Okay. So it shows some commitment that people do this. Yeah. You've really got to commit to it because they wouldn't want to back anyone who wasn't fully committed to their journey and to really being a co-founder.
5:36The other half of the people are mostly tech types. So you mostly get your software developers, but a few PhD students don't go through. So you get into this program. They have this sort of kickoff weekend, which is like a freshers week at university where everyone's trying to sell themselves. You sit around and you have these speed dating sessions where you chat to everyone. And the people in the program, some of them are incredibly impressive. um there was one chap in our program who was shortlisted to be part of one direction but turned it down and he'd had a whole sort of artistic career after that there was people who'd sold their own startups already and who were looking for a new co-founder and a whole new opportunity and going into this world it was incredibly intimidating and i'd been essentially in a lab for four years and everyone kind of had their angles and who they wanted to be and I was trying to sell myself but what were you trying to sell yourself as well I'd finished a PhD on sensing for long-term radioactive waste so I was kind of pitching that as my angle really I should have just been pitching kind of chemistry and industrial and sustainability the things I really care about um but it was when I met my co-founder as part of the program that we kind of really the gears started to kick into action so who's your co-founder so his name's Brett Cotton.
6:50He's from New Jersey in the States. And he has a really interesting story. So he always wanted to be in like biotech industry and he did his undergraduate in biochemistry, but he had a mentor who said, look, you could take, you could go straight into a master's, you could go straight into a career, or you could take a year out whilst you're young and do something you're really interested in. So he took a year out and he interviewed biotech founders from across the world and collated those interviews into a book and published a book. And by doing so, he built an incredible network, learned so much, and then learned about new opportunities.
7:29And from that, he went to do a master's in Cambridge in the UK in biotech enterprise, a course he likens to an MBA for biotech people who don't really want to go full into business, but want to keep their foot still on the scientific side. And after that, he got involved with several startups doing business development um working with vcs and due diligence but his passion was to start his own company and he actually applied to entrepreneur first a few times before he got in and then he got in and it's when i met him he was so familiar with all these different startups all these crazy ideas that were happening more in the synthetic biology side so the kind of science where you get cells to create things lab-grown meats uh fermentation type processes, that realm.
8:17And when I first met him, he was telling me about all these different startups. And I'd say, look, I'm not a biologist. I'm a chemist. And chemistry is the science of industry. And it's often chemistry is quite in the background, even though it powers so much for this world. People think physics and big questions and big problems. People think biology and medicine. But the chemistry is, there's still so much innovation there. This Earth Day, your gift can make double the difference. From the 22nd to the 29th of April through biggive.org, donations to environmental charities will be doubled. Earthraise gives you the power to turn your generosity into real, lasting impact.
9:00Together we can protect wildlife, restore habitats and help nature thrive. Visit biggive.org between the 22nd and the 29th of April. Choose a cause close to your heart and make double the difference. Thank you for supporting Earthrate. So you started this conversation, this dance with your co-founder, and you obviously came to a view that this was a good opportunity to try. Yeah. How did that happen? I mean, so he was a biochemist or... Yeah, so not really a scientist, but understood that world and focused on it. So he's the CEO, I'm CTO. he was he was proposing all these different ideas and i have to say i'm chemist so what could we work on and valorization the transformation of waste was something at the forefront that we think we could work on that that's what valorization means yeah that's new word for me transformation of waste valorization yeah it's uh increasing the value of something i guess that's kind of the fundamental okay that's interesting and we were looking at lots of ideas and part of the entrepreneur first program is you have two months to find a business partner to settle down with and say that's who i'm working with and if you don't have someone you get kicked off so there is this kind of there's a lot of courting going on people are making up people are breaking up you have to announce every makeup and breakup on on the slack channel so at the start everyone's like oh yeah they were so great to work with by the end of it no one is talking about like people are just like scrambling and getting more entertaining it is it would be good for tv it is stressful i did have some people after me but some buzz stops yeah Brett moved me.
10:39But eventually you found the good match. Yeah, so we partnered together. And initially we actually, it's kind of an irony to Entrepreneur First. They say like, oh, we're bringing in people who are outside the box. And now you get there and they try and put you in their box. So we actually sneakily didn't announce all of our pair-ups at the start. We saw this pitch competition for it and we scrambled together a startup idea and we pitched for the competition. wasn't so good oh we didn't win but what we discovered is we were very good at working together and we decided at that point we would stick together and entrepreneur first is constantly monitoring you you're kind of because a lot of it is investing in the founders rather than the idea and we were kind of trying to show how hustly we were as well because if they don't think you're moving quick enough they they force you to break up and that causes a lot of tension and we actually broke into this conference to just try and network and speak to people and learn as much and so we chatted to this guy who said oh you're in bermondsey in south london which is where i coincidentally lived i'd just moved down to london and it's where brett lived and it just so happened to be where entrepreneur first was but more important than that it just so happened to be where the famous bermondsey beer mile is there's some something like for those who don't know describe it yeah like 10 to 20 microbreweries tap rooms under the arches under the railway for about a mile in Bermondsey.
12:02Stagdus love it. Groups of pals love it. It's, um, it is good fun. The Bermondsey Beer Mile, everyone. The Bermondsey Beer Mile. And this guy said, go chat to the brewers, see what they're up to. So this was in May 2022. And we went along. It was a sunny day. Chat to the brewers. Good lads. They gave us some free beer. And they told us one of the biggest issues they face is actually getting rid of their waste. These inner city brewers pay to get rid of their waste stream. So I've got some here. um and so what is that you just shook shake shake it near your microphone so people can hear it so that's a little you've got a jar of something what is that so breweries and whiskey distillers they take malted barley extract the sugar and brewers ferment that into beer and uh distillers ferment and then distill into whiskey or other spirit alcohols and by doing this they're essentially taking malted barley, extracting the sugar, but leaving behind the fibers and the protein.
12:58And so when we first looked into this, we were like, oh my gosh, this is a remarkable resource that people are paying to get rid of. What is in there? About 25 % protein. So we were like, oh, this is brilliant. We found a waste stream that is really undervalued. And protein, four years ago, was top of the market. Plant-based meats, plant-based milks. This is easy. They need a new protein source for vegan-based products. So that was where you first thought you would go? Yeah. So we spent about a month on this. Easy extraction chemistry. Then we just find a way to retail it. And we got to meetings with fuel, being like, oh, we have this new product on the market.
13:36But we spoke to AB and Bev, so the likes who own Budweiser, Stella Ratois. Big brewer. Huge, world's biggest brewer. And they said, look, you could do this. We've seen other entrepreneurs try this. They'd actually backed 110 million to doing just this. in a North American facility. And they said, look, unless you're at huge scale, economics don't really work out. Waste into food is a regulation minefield and it doesn't taste that good. There's kind of variability in the feedstock as well that can knock on, have knock on implications. These plant-based milks are so highly engineered that they want a very consistent protein feedstock.
14:17So at this point, we were back to the drawing board and Entrepreneur First was putting the pressure on us, being like, if you haven't got ideas, break up and find someone else. But we were thinking, we're like, food, protein-based food, it's just a material that we eat. What protein-based materials are there? And there's fur, there's silk, there's wool, there's feathers, and there's leather. Say that again. That's so interesting. They're all protein-based materials. Yeah, fur, silk, wool, feathers, and leather. all protein-based materials um all animal derived and in the modern day we have lots of different alternatives but everything's pretty much plastic derived as an alternative and it just so happened to be that in my field of chemistry there's about 15 years of work coming out of cambridge where they're taking plant-based proteins like um pea proteins and manipulating them to mimic collagen.
15:14Collagen being the protein that makes up leather. So having looked at this research, I was like, oh my gosh, we have a huge protein source that's high quality, so low value. Could we not just take that and create a material out of it? And the materials that are shown up in the research, they're actually using these collagen-like structures to replace plastics. And when we looked into the leather space, there were sort of two main streams of products that were being presented. You have leather and you have plastic leather. And the alternatives were either these synthetic biology approaches, lab-grown leather.
15:47We're still not looking at lab-grown meat just yet. It's too expensive. Regulatory hurdles. And then the other, there's things like mycelium leather, mushroom-grown interleather, inherently a batch-based process, not very suitable for a commodity product like leather that needs to be everywhere. And then there's things like, well, there's a couple of waves of the last two decades we've seen some products come to the market that are a step towards sustainability. Things like apple leather, cactus leather, a variety of different organic substances just ground up into a paste or into a powder mixed with plastic.
16:24So these products are neither biodegradable or recyclable and sometimes quite very much deemed as greenwashing. So Brett at first he thought it was all solved because of these lab-grown approaches, but the more we looked into it, leather was this huge market that hasn't really been disrupted and we started to speak to fashion people and it was clear some of them still love leather it's fine um it's a premium product there is a sort of a very much an attachment to the leather but no one really wants to defend a plastic leather so if we could first knock out plastic leather then we can start to move in on leather um so that's kind of how we came to the idea right and it started with prototypes in my kitchen um so how hard is it to make i mean you say you started with prototypes in the kitchen oh they were they were terrible they were so crude they looked like flapjacks i mean what you're displaying today looks from here like leather yeah um so you've gone on quite a journey it would seem it has that looks absolutely like leather and you say that this is used for upholstery or yeah small leather goods is the main use case at the moment so wallets and things like Yeah, handbags especially.
17:37We've done a couple of things like tennis racket holders. We did a nice whiskey holder as well when we were courting a whiskey brand. That's kind of the market side of it. Speaking to these companies, leather is everywhere, and the sustainability angle that we're proposing here is pretty huge. The no plastic side is very much wanted from the industry. So a lot of leather has plastic? yeah so if you imagine most fashion companies they'll have their leather based product but then they'll also have a plastic leather alternative so whether that's a jacket or handbag so they call it plastic leather yeah pleather but is that what it's called pleather yeah but it's not real leather you know everyone hates it yeah everyone hates it yeah yeah i wouldn't want one of them yeah exactly a pleather jacket yeah i wouldn't want one of them so these these are alternatives yeah potentially but you're pretty early in your journey aren't you so yeah you haven't made new jackets yet not new jackets yet card holders and bags so far um yeah we've got a long way to go we're a team of 15 we have a site a 5 000 square foot site in bermondsey so we're adjacent to the brewery suppliers that's really good so you develop this new business in bermondsey by bm mile yeah totally synergistic right next to your entrepreneur first yeah organization as well well they've moved out now to hoxton so we are we're left behind at Bermondsey but it's a good site it's um it's there's a lot going on there yeah so that's that that places you well and do you deal with most of those breweries now yeah so we mostly work with our main grain suppliers a very cool brewery called Colonel Brewery they're they're kind of like the the brewery that held out as Camden Town and Beaver Town expanded more they're the North London breweries and sold to some of the multinationals like Aby & Bev and Heineken.
19:29Colonel dug their feet in and said, we're going to stay independent. So they're our main supplier. But we do have a really good relationship with the likes of Heineken and Aby & Bev, and we've been able to make materials out of their beer. So where are their breweries? So Aby & Bev, who brew Stella, Artois, and Budweiser, and Corona, they have a massive brewery in the south of Wales and in Lancashire. And so we actually went and collected some of waste grain so this card holder here this is made out of budweiser so we've done the budweiser card holder yeah wow you'd have no idea would you so it's yeah there's no real you'd have no idea it wasn't leather yeah no before this conversation and it's not pleather either well i can recommend your card holder to our listeners thank you i mean it's very nice what do you think team here like it so yes okay that's above lines of cardholder and i think one of the key things is none of this would have ever really been a good idea had there not been the scalability so the feedstock is so abundant humanity's appetite for beer and whiskey is just kind of that's going to continue isn't it it's going to continue even if they say good source of supply yeah even if gen z are drinking less they're still drinking so there's going to be a huge supply it, which means it's really low value.
20:52And the process to make our material is using off-the-shelf equipment. It's just using some smart chemistry. And actually, the research for this was started in the 1920s. So prior to plastics and petrochemical inputs, a lot of research was going into natural or semi-natural products. Petrochemicals come along, plastics are discovered, and we see humanity just replace everything with some sort of plastic. What a shame those other developments didn't get ahead. Yeah. We wouldn't have plastic everywhere. We wouldn't. But now we're waking up to the fact that we have these natural feedstocks. Essentially, the nature is Lego building blocks, and we're using modern understanding of chemistry to piece things together.
21:34Right. So, TJ, you've said you have a PhD in chemistry, but you're now running a startup. You're the CTO, Chief Technology Officer. that requires a very different set of skills doesn't it it does um what's been the biggest shift in mindset you know from scientific research into entrepreneurship for you tj um i think it's just the amount i'm speaking to people so during my phd of course i'm speaking to all my peers and my supervisor but now being on my feet and really trying to sell something um i think that's probably and also being able to tell a story i think is probably the most exciting so the amount of speaking to me that's interesting so you you talk a lot as an entrepreneur yeah and so you need to be a good communicator yeah i think so that's one of your key takeaways yeah yeah definitely and i would always say the key takeaway is just try and chat to everyone really try and um make friends with everyone because you just never know where any opportunity will be so actually i was connected to you because i met a mutual friend a friend's friend at a wedding right and that's how we were connected to him you meet lots of interesting people at weddings i find that too that's very good advice be friendly to everyone yeah i think the world would be better if everyone did that so so you you've taken that approach i mean do you think talented scientists sometimes struggle in building companies or finding their way in building companies?
23:05Yeah, I think it's one of the biggest challenges. There are a lot of scientists with great ideas out there. And the academic environment, though it is very good training for some parts of being an entrepreneur, I do think academia with grant writing, developing your own group, a personal endeavor that you have to really stick by and you have to believe in yourself, they're qualities that track from academia to entrepreneurship. I think one of the big issues is there are so many PhD students or postdocs who have ideas, but they just don't know where to start. There are tech offices opening up in universities, but often they're run by people who haven't actually been entrepreneurs themselves, don't really know where to start.
23:46Sometimes a big issue in academia is the equity take from universities. Universities are getting better at this. Imperial at the moment is killing it right now. So what are they doing? They have reduced the equity take from Imperial for new spin-outs. And they've created several different hubs to get startups up and running. So spin-outs from their community. So what do they take as an equity for that? Oh, I don't know exactly. But I know, so I did my PhD at Oxford. And at the time, they were taking somewhere between 30 % and 50%. And that just hamstrings many startups. So if you wanted to start a business out of Oxford at that time as a scientist, the university will require a big state.
24:25Yeah, and that would just... That makes it harder to raise money, huh? Yeah, it spooks investors immediately. Yeah. What would be reasonable, do you think? I think 10%. Someone was explaining how Imperial has an option where either they take 10 % flat or they take a lower percentage that doesn't get diluted, but they still open their resources to the spin-out. Yeah. And I think that model's working really well for them. I mean, I think encouraging universities, scientists, you know, others of academic disciplines to start businesses and to have an incentive to do that makes total sense. Yeah. Because you're rather like you did with your partner, Entrepreneur First.
25:04You're combining really valuable skills that wouldn't otherwise be combined. Yeah. I mean, your business wouldn't exist if that hadn't happened. Yeah. So Entrepreneur First take an equity cut. So you after the two months, you then pitch to them. um but yeah i would like i'm not too fussed about the equity cut some people would argue it wasn't as good a deal as it could have been i think it's more generous now but having never found brett none of this would have happened i don't know where i would be right now no so so those phds that you're talking about or scientists that are thinking i'd like to do something entrepreneurial where would you direct them what what advice would you give them from your own experience i would look into these programs so you mentioned entrepreneur first who else does it uh there's a There's a group called Zinc.
25:49They're based in London. There's one called Antler, who are also in London. And then there's one that's more sustainability focused called Carbon 13. And they're based in Cambridge. And I think for a lot of scientists who have the ambition and potentially have ideas, it's just the where to start. And trying to do it on your own is incredibly difficult. But if you have a partner who's more commercially focused, you can divvy up responsibilities and you can cover a lot more ground. So to change tack a bit here, TJ, I'm looking at you and in front of you, there are some items that look like leather samples, but they're not, and that they're your products.
26:28And there's a jar of spent grain. Can you do your best to explain to me how the jar of spent grain is turned into what looks like a nice piece of leather? Yeah, definitely. So the first step is the brewers, they take the malted barley, strip away the sugar, and then you're left with the fiber and the protein. So what we're able to do is we collect the grain, we wash it, and then we extract the protein. So the extraction of the protein is sort of a standardized industrial process, the same way they extract pea protein or soy protein, high pH, alkaline conditions, where we can pull the protein into a liquid, at which point we get rid of the husks.
27:09so we have our own waste stream that we're looking at valorizing as well um so you want to turn the husks into something else yeah there's um huge opportunities there we call it fractional valorization if you imagine um a oil refinery goes through fractional distillation where they separate all the oil into different components whether it's for jet fuel or bitumen for roads we can take this natural input and carve it up and take out the different pieces needed Fractional valorization, everyone. I think that's a process of the future. Oh, I hope so. I hope so too. It sounds like a really good idea.
27:43So go on. So you take your protein, you leave your husks. Then what happens? So we have the protein essentially in a soup. And it's in this soup we can start modifying the pH and the temperature. So if you imagine a protein is almost like a wire that's been raveled up, we can change the conditions so it starts to unravel and become a single fiber, a molecular fiber. And we can start to modify the conditions so these fibers start to interact with one another. And in a process called self-assembly, they start to form these connections. And it's those connections that form the basis of our material.
28:20Once that soup is ready... So how do you do that, though? How do you get the soup? So that's the extracting the protein. And we just add in different reagents. Salts. Oh, I see. Increase the temperature. Other chemicals and heat. No other chemicals at this point. Salt is a chemical, isn't it? Salt is a chemical. You are right. I'm not a chemist. Yeah, no, you're right. So, yeah. All right. But apart from that. Apart from that. All non-toxic. And then once that's ready, we add in sort of different reagents. So we add in vegetable oils to keep the material flexible. We add in different natural cross-linkers to help with the strength.
28:55We add in any pigments needed. And actually the color. So this is of your invention. Yeah. You came out with this. Yeah. Recipe. Yeah. we have four patents i wouldn't say i came up with the recipe now so we're a team four patterns four patents for a team of 15 right most of the team are focused on the research and developing the material and when so when did you file your patents the first one was in october 2022 that was one of the first things we ever did we just started to engage with investors and it became clear that for the investors to take you seriously just making sure you got your foot into the ip space was really important.
29:33How long do they last, patterns? Oh, so none of ours have actually been completely filed. So depending on the journey you're taking, you file for a pattern application, which is about a year. Within that time frame, you can make some edits. Then it becomes published, and it sits there for about a year. And then you can either go to international, or you can focus on local geography. So we've gone international. So we're looking at the regions of North America, Europe, and Japan as our main markets. And then within those jurisdictions, I think it's about 18 months from then, if there's any complaints, before it files.
30:17So it's years and years. And then once it's filed, you have a set amount of years. Yeah, how many is that typically? I don't know, actually. As long as possible, I suppose, if you can. After all that work, forget it. Yeah. Well, congratulations. Four patents in four years is pretty good, isn't it? Yeah, I think so. I think so too. All right. So what interest are you getting from other industries in this material? Which industries are most interested at the moment in terms of potential future sales? Yeah. So the most interested industry is the luxury fashion space or the premium fashion. They want to replace plastic in their supply chain.
30:54Some of them also want to just replace leather outright. The problem with modern day leather is the chrome tanning industry, incredibly polluting and directly impacts millions of people in the global south. And most modern day leather is coated in plastic anyway. So it's far removed from that natural material we once knew. So we're working - More people are becoming vegan too, aren't they? And won't want to wear leather, choose leather. Yeah, exactly. And so there's that kind of consumer pressure. Then we have large policy pressure as well. The EU were implementing two policies. One focused on removing materials from deforestation, so that it's going to impact leather.
31:32And the other focuses on end of life, and that's probably going to affect plastic leather. And so both those materials are going to go up in price. And so an alternative that can be made at current price parity with plastic leather that is completely plastic and animal-free is a huge opportunity. So you can do that for the same price? Yeah, in theory, once we're at factory scale. You need to scale up, but in theory. Yeah. You might be able to do it cheaper even. Yeah, we might be able to actually. So is that your next challenge to scale up? Yeah, that's the big focus at the moment is scaling up.
32:09So what are you looking to do? So we really have given ourselves a challenge because we've got the two sides. We've got the extraction of the protein and purification, and then we've got the actual production of the material. So we produce it by taking that soup and pouring it. At the moment, we pour into a tray, and the water evaporates, material sets, and we peel it and cure it. We need to do that onto a conveyor belt. You pour the liquid onto a conveyor belt, liquid evaporates, material sets, and it cures and forms and rolls. How long does it take? So at the moment, it's about 24 hours. Right.
32:42But you want to get this down to about a half hour production. So maybe the protein extraction can take several hours, but the actual rolled roll. So trying to get it from 24 hours to half an hour is your challenge. Yeah, and at scale. There's a lot of science involved in that, isn't there? There is so much science. And actually, now it's taking me far from my expertise. It's taken into the realm of heavy engineering. Right. So are you having to recruit people with that expertise? Or are you learning as you go? We are recruiting people. And finding industry engineers in London is challenging. Brilliant scientists, brilliant commercial people, brilliant designers, but heavy industry engineers.
Read the full transcript
33:23So does that make you think you have to do your production somewhere else? I think for our pilot facility will likely be co-located with a brewery partner in the UK. So that could be the likes of kind of Heineken or AB and Bev Brewery or it could even be a single malt whiskey distiller up in Scotland which would be very exciting to make up. Sounds quite an attractive option. It would be. Single malt. It has to be single malt. Single malt leather. Right, that sounds like good marketing. I think it will hopefully sell itself. Yeah. We're kind of at this crossroads where, do we make our own production facility?
34:02We're definitely going to make our own extraction to get the protein, but it's whether we ship it to an external facility. And do we do that in the UK or do we do elsewhere? A lot of the calculations we've done have been on UK-based manufacturing, and it still makes economic sense. so if we were to focus on other geographies we could reduce the cost even more but one of our big visions is the fact that breweries are everywhere we could transform waste well some parts of the world don't have many breweries oh yeah you're right okay there's a except for the few dry countries out there there are almost breweries everywhere so our plan would have this sort of global um industry where we're taking waste and transforming them into materials for local industries imagine in germany for the automotive so do you imagine yourself becoming more of a wholesaler than of this material or so you won't be making finished items you'll just be providing large quantities of what what do you call it your material the material's called new grain new grain yeah because it's made out of grain and it's new it's finding a name is so hard to do but we settled on new grain really early so you your your business strategy would become the premier producer of new grain material.
35:17Exactly. In lots of locations, ideally. Yeah. So you need to get one set up first. Yeah. That's exciting. Yeah. So you're going to do that somewhere in the UK, I hope. I hope it's in the UK. Yeah. Yeah. But you haven't decided yet. Haven't decided. So our site in Bermondsey, we have, it's like a small pilot setup. So 500 liter extraction vessels. We're producing quite a lot of protein. and producing around, we can, if we push the team, about 10 square meters a week. And that's almost flat out on production. So we can produce quite a bit at the moment, which will satisfy small capsule collections with brands.
35:55So, you know, new grain, new idea. How do you persuade industries that traditionally use leather or pleather or synthetic leather to switch? I mean, how do you, what are the key sort of advantages of your product i mean what's your what's your sort of selling point here what what would you say to them i think the the key part is the plastic free so for the last 15 years a lot of brands have been looking for an alternative to plastic based materials and especially in the last five years um just plastics don't feel good it doesn't sell well the idea that you're buying essentially a premium handbag for example and you discover it's made of plastic and there are so many consumers who don't want any animals at base materials that's kind of the key point the fact that we can say look we have an animal and plastic free material and we can actually show it to them because there have been so many promises in the past of lab growing leather but it just hasn't come to fruition yet so it's very simple in that sense animal and plastic free yeah that's where the money and they're and they're buying that I don't think they're saying, hey, let's have some of that.
37:07It doesn't exist on the market yet. There was one company that did hit the market, and they were making a rubber-based material. They developed a huge production facility in North America, but the production costs were too much, and they've had to close the facility. I think they found a use case for the IP. They're focusing on shoe soles now, but it's left a huge vacuum in the industry where the demand is only increasing for these materials. So you see that as an opportunity? Yeah. Yeah. Well, that's very good. So changing direction a little bit, you are a young entrepreneur. You launched Arda when you were 26 years old.
37:48What do you think the advantages are of building a company at this stage in life? You don't really have any responsibilities. So you can dedicate yourself fully to the company. I guess you don't really require much. you can be really scrappy without having to support whether it's a family or a mortgage and i think you can be forgiven for making mistakes because you're young and you can always turn around and say look we're we're learning here can you please help us and often you ask for help and one of the sort of phrases people use is if you go to investors and you ask for money you'll get advice if you go for advice you'll get money and being young that's what experience yeah you just that's good advice please can you help us and you build a relationship eventually they'll come around and be like oh we really like really believe in what you guys are doing so that's very good advice and so have there been moments where you found being a young founder has made things more difficult you know whether raising money or building partnerships that sort of thing um i think it was quite difficult i guess there's a lot of learnings all the time, especially in a company structure.
39:00So now we're a larger team. We're kind of having to put structures together. I'd come through academia, so I'd never even seen an HR department before. I was unfamiliar with working with lawyers. So there's all the learnings you have to go through. So do you have an HR department? No. No, I didn't think you would have 15 people. No, but... And what's your experience been like of working with lawyers? Would you recommend it or not? Well, they're really expensive. They're really expensive, yeah. So it sounds like you're finding your way quite effectively. I am happy that like AI is there. It can really help.
39:34You can use AI. Yeah. Only for like legal things, kind of quick checks and whatnot. Ask questions of it. It's pretty helpful. Saves a lot of time and money. It does. But what's interesting to me about your entrepreneurial journey, it's sort of AI free apart from that. Yeah. Other than just speaking to AI as a lawyer capacity. Yeah. This is kind of traditional trial and error, well-informed scientific trial and error. Yeah, which has a long and successful track history. Yeah. Yeah. So, DJ, sort of coming towards the end of our conversation, what does success look like for your company over the next decade or so?
40:12Yeah, so in the next five years, we'll have fundraised again and we'll be developing our own production facility, extracting protein at a huge scale and producing material in a roll-to-roll capacity. So you can imagine several big fashion brands taking our material into handbags and it's in the market, developing the material more and more. In a decade's time, we'd hope to have several of these facilities supporting local geographies and different industries, whether that's automotive or upholstery. But one thing we're very much focused on is we're not actually a leather company. We're not making an alternative leather.
40:49We are, but we're more than that. We see ourselves as this waste transformation, a chemical firm for the 21st century so it's back to that um fractional valorization hopefully we can take this waste grain the protein can go to make leather like materials it could go into other materials we've been able to spin fibers you could make adhesives you can make sort of any plastic or petrochemical based material we could hopefully make an alternative to but then the fibers themselves we go into making different packaging we could even spin fibers from the actual husks. So there's a whole different suite of materials, and that's where we see ourselves as sort of this material innovator, material and chemical innovator.
41:33That sounds very exciting. It makes me wish I'd studied chemistry this thing. Oh, it's a great topic. So young people are seeing it seems like at least lots of possible options. You talked about raising money to do this, because obviously if you're going to be building big industrial units to process, yeah your um your waste how much money you're going to be looking for in the next round um it's probably in the ballpark about 10 to 15 million so we've raised so far over 5 million in so we did a pre-seed of 1.1 million a seed of 4 million which was last year and then about yeah the ballpark of 10 million and that allows us to get this pilot facility online right so So that's your next step.
42:17That's the next goal. So at the moment, prove role to role, line up the customers, take both those points to the investors and say, look, we need to build a facility because we've got customers asking for our material and we now know how to mass produce it. Well, that's two things that have got to happen. Which of those do you think is going to be the hardest to achieve? The customers are already very much there. We have signed some deals. So it's getting the science right. Yeah. Now it's getting this. It's back to the science. That's a bit of pressure on you. Oh my gosh, it is. Yeah. I can feel it.
42:49I can feel it. But that's, I mean, I feel that you're going to solve that. Yeah. I think it's solvable. We'll get there. But to make it work as a business, you have to be able to scale it up scientifically to produce more and more quickly is what I'm hearing. Yeah. That's the goal. Yeah. And then you'll be able to fulfill those customer demands. Yeah. Well, TJ, I wish you every success with that. I think this is a really exciting new business. that is going to improve the world. I think it's really good that you're not, people won't be making so much plastic. Yeah, I hope so. TJ, do you have any other advice for people who are thinking of starting a business or getting up and running from your own experience that you would share to our listeners?
43:31Yeah, so one of the best things about London, and probably in different cities as well, but I'm not as familiar, is just the amount of networking events. So for us, sustainability was our focus. So we went to all these different sustainability groups. and there are these communities across the world. And just going to these and speaking to people, you learn about new opportunities, you meet new people who might come and join your team, and just building that network. Get on LinkedIn. For someone coming from academia, well, LinkedIn is not really a thing. It's so important for building networks.
44:05There's also a Y Combinator app, which I know people have found business partners through. How does that work? I don't really know. I think it's almost like a dating app, but finding a business partner. Called Y Combinator. Yeah, so Y Combinator is North America's biggest startup incubator. It's quite prestigious. You go into it and you get funding to help your startup. But they've developed this app on the side, a YC app, which allows you to find business partners to kind of support starting a company. So that would be good for people anywhere so they don't have to go to the US to benefit from that.
44:42thank you for coming to talk to me i asked two questions at the end that i ask of everybody um read we love mondays so my first question to you tj is what gets you up on a monday morning oh um what gets me up on a monday morning you know i'm i'm a sucker for breakfast breakfast cereals so normally it's like oh let's go have breakfast but getting to work i think one of the best things about founding a company is i've got to choose my team and which has meant that i've chosen a team that i really like to work with and i look forward to kind of spending time and working with them so you're really looking forward to being with your team well that sounds like a good reason for getting up but what cereal do you like at the moment i'm on a weetabix fix which is really basic but i'm i took the seeds in there i took the nuts i took the berries so really oh yeah i always have porridge which is very dull but i like it so and then the last question is um and it's from my interview book why you 101 interview questions you'll never fear again is where do you see yourself in five years time myself yeah oh um so apart from the company i guess i'll the company be a lot larger i'll be chief technology officer of this material that i can point out to people in the shops and that would make me quite proud i think yeah just carrying on where we are but just more success for the company and building and growing what you're doing building and growing yeah fantastic thanks very much i wish you every success with that and i look forward to following you in the in the future maybe you'll come back and talk to me in five years time i hope so thank you thank you tj for joining me on all about business i'm your host james reed chairman and CEO of Reed, a family-run recruitment and philanthropy company.
46:36If you'd like to find out more about Arda Biomaterials or Reed, you'll find all the links in the show notes. Thanks for listening and see you next time.
From the publisher
Could the answer to a more sustainable handbag or wallet lie at the bottom of your pint glass?
In this episode of all about business, James Reed sits down with Dr. Edward "TJ" Mitchell, co-founder and Chief Technology Officer of Arda Biomaterials, a London-based startup redefining the future of leather. Using cutting-edge technology, Arda transforms waste grain from brewers and distillers into sustainable, animal-, and plastic-free leather alternatives that are poised to disrupt the fashion and materials industries.
TJ shares his remarkable journey from a PhD in radioactive waste storage to the fast-paced world of entrepreneurship. He opens up about the pivotal moments that led to founding Arda Biomaterials, meeting his co-founder, and the bold decision to pivot from food-based protein products to sustainable materials. TJ also talks about the challenges of scaling a deep tech startup, from overcoming scientific and engineering hurdles, to building a team, and navigating the complexities of fundraising.
TJ reflects on the importance of networking and immersing yourself in the right communities, the art of storytelling as an entrepreneur, and why asking for advice often leads to unexpected opportunities.
Timestamps
02:39 From PhD research to entrepreneurship
06:22 Discovering the value of waste grain
12:15 Pivoting from food-based protein to leather alternatives
14:19 Using chemistry to mimic collagen for sustainable leather
20:33 The science behind transforming waste into leather-like materials
21:20 Why communication and storytelling are key for entrepreneurs
24:47 Advice for scientists: finding co-founders and startup programs
35:00 The future of plastic-free, animal-free materials in fashion
39:49 Arda Biomaterials’ vision as a waste transformation company
42:13 Scaling globally and creating local production facilities
Follow TJ Mitchell on LinkedIn
Find out more about Arda Biomaterials here
All About Business is brought to you by Reed Global. Learn more HERE
This podcast was co-produced by Reed Global and Flamingo Media. If you’d like to create a chart-topping podcast to elevate your brand, visit Flamingo-media.co.uk
