Tired of eating leftovers? Turn your odds and ends into creative meals

0:00Emily Siner:This message comes from Mattress Firm. Sleeping hot can ruin your night. Mattress Firm's sleep experts can match you with a temper breeze designed to deliver cooling comfort for hot sleepers. Visit Mattress Firm and upgrade today. Restrictions apply. See store for details. You're listening to Life Kit from NPR. Hey, it's Marielle. When Margaret Lee was a kid, she watched her mom doing something that was a little unusual. She used to like to save takeout sauces from every restaurant.

0:34So she would have ketchup from one restaurant, barbecue sauce from another restaurant, maybe some kind of soy sauce or duck sauce from a Chinese restaurant. After she collected a bunch of them, she would mix them all together. And then she would use it to make a sauce for barbecued chicken. Almost always barbecued chicken. And honestly, it was usually really good.

0:58Years later, when Margaret and her sister wrote a cookbook called Perfectly Good Food, they dedicated it to their mom and the way she would rescue takeout sauces. Because this was a formative lesson for Margaret. It showed her that you don't always need a recipe to make something delicious, and you can find creative ways to use up just about any ingredient in your kitchen. You have these great intentions to cook and eat the things that you're spending your money on, and especially as food costs go up, that's so frustrating. and to use it and make sure that you eat it feels very satisfying. The latest estimate from a nonprofit called ReFed is that a quarter of all food products in the U.S.

1:35get dumped. And the residential food sector accounts for a big part of that, which means if you spend$200 a week on groceries and takeout, you might be throwing away the equivalent of$50 of food. But also, once you get the hang of how to use more of your food, it makes the daily chore of feeding yourself easier. Food waste, in some ways, is this trendy new idea. But for many thousands of years, that was just cooking. You just used up what you had. On this episode of Life Kit, reporter Emily Seiner is going to talk about how to make creative meals out of leftovers, out of odds and ends, and anything else you usually end up throwing away.

2:11It might shift your perspective.

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4:13It's a typical Tuesday night in my kitchen. I open the fridge before dinner and they're the remains of yesterday's takeout. A half-eaten rotisserie chicken still on the bone. A couple of raw vegetables. And I usually end up saying something like this. Oh, there's nothing in the fridge. I don't know what to make. But cookbook author and chef Margaret Lee has a different outlook on my sad Tuesday night fridge. To her, these odds and ends from previous meals aren't the roadblock to dinner. They are dinner. Okay, well, the bone will add flavor to a broth or a stew. and all these vegetables will work.

4:47So, you know, maybe the potatoes go in first and then the fresh leafy greens go in last. And then these vegetables are left over from another meal. So they're already cooked. So I'll pop them in sometime in the middle. In other words, think of the end of one meal as the beginning of the next. That's takeaway one.

5:10I don't think there's almost anything in my kitchen that isn't made out of something else. Food writer and chef Tamar Adler is the author of The Everlasting Meal, which is basically a love letter to the style of cooking. The day I talked to her, she was putting together a salad for her lunch. She looked in her fridge. Found like a half-eaten burrata arugula salad. Burrata is a soft cheese and it kind of melded into the arugula and tomatoes. I might have tossed it right then and there. But Tamar saw potential. I kind of picked the arugula off of the burrata and then added lemon juice and olive oil to it and mixed it really hard.

5:47So it became like a creamy dressing. And it was so good. I might remake a burrata dressing. And it won't be as good because something about it sitting all night with the little bits and pieces made it better. These byproducts of yesterday's meal are the foundation for today's. Maybe you have some leftover rice lying around. Tamar says that is the perfect start for tonight's dinner. I will fry anything with rice into fried rice. I will, you know, saute some aromatics. So maybe some ginger, garlic, onion, and then whatever other leftover bit there is. So maybe there's like a little bit of beans left.

6:24And just because the meal is built from leftovers doesn't mean she treats it like a second class dish. No, she's trying to give these ingredients new life in their new form. And sort of just take the approach of making it more flavorful and crispy and then spicy and then usually adding like a squeeze of lemon. It's all about building up your arsenal of go-to recipes that are flexible enough to use up just about anything. Margaret calls them hero recipes. For example. My house eats a lot of bread. My children love bread. I bake bread. We always have bread ends around. So one of Margaret's hero recipes is an anything-goes savory bread pudding.

7:04You throw all that leftover bread into a freezer bag, and when it's full, you soak your bread in milk or cream, and you add in eggs, and I like to add in all the different cheese bits that I can find from foraging my fridge. And then it can take just about any other meat or vegetable that you can think of. Generally, I just saute them with maybe onions and olive oil and make sure everything is well-seasoned. and then you pile it all into a casserole dish and you bake it for about an hour. And it is so delicious. These hero recipes do rely on some advanced planning. You need to make sure you're stocked up on staples.

7:40Aromatics like onion and garlic are essential to building flavor. Margaret always has puff pastry in her freezer, which she uses to repurpose leftovers into a savory galette. And she always has shelf-stable essentials like rice and pasta in her cupboard. Well, I've got chicken thighs and I've got canned tomatoes and I've got pasta. So all of a sudden you have this, you know, roast chicken and tomato pasta and then you've tossed in some fresh greens and some alliums and aromatics and then you have this really flavorful meal that you can just kind of forage from what you have. Another essential ingredient to have in hand is eggs.

8:17Like you can put anything in a frittata and it'll be great. So just like thinking of it as like, okay, well, if I don't know what to do, I will frittatize. Or Tamar says the even easier version of this is just to cook an egg and put it on top. It has the effect of making almost everything feel heartier and fancier. Whatever you make with the staples, you can set yourself up for success by making sure you cook enough to produce leftovers. I probably cook for like six to eight people every single time I go in the kitchen because I can't fry rice anything if there's nothing to fry rice.

8:52Tamar also recommends thinking about what you're going to do with all the leftovers before you put them away in your fridge. For example, she might chop up the ends of the parsley she used for dinner and put them on some leftover pasta and then put it in the fridge already combined. Now the next meal is halfway started. Or at the very least, she labels the leftovers with their intended use. If I had a little bit of leftover blueberries, I wouldn't say leftover blueberries. I would say like muffins to be on Tuesday with grated cheese. I would say like for pasta this week or like cheese rinds to turn into broth.

9:28I really liked doing that. Assigning the destiny of the food and labeling it. This brings us to takeaway two, which is a very practical one. Labeling is your friend. I always have some painter's tape and a good Sharpie in my kitchen so you can label and date things. It's a method that chefs use in restaurants, Margaret says, but it's equally applicable in your home. And this becomes even more important when you store food in your freezer. What is this brown container that I shoved to the back of the freezer six months ago? Is it soup? Is it cider? I have no idea. You always think you'll remember, but often you don't.

10:10Using the freezer is a whole art in itself. Margaret has her freezer bag for the ends of bread, as we talked about. She also has one for making chicken or vegetable stock that houses the carrot peels and the ends of onions and extra garlic cloves and chicken bones. And then there's the freezer bag for smoothies. You know, this blueberry is too squishy, Mom. I can't eat this. I just stick it into the freezer. This banana is too brown. I can't eat this. I stick it into the freezer. And then eventually I just put it all in a blender with some yogurt and some juice and I make a smoothie. And then the smoothie is delicious for all ages, even if it's made up of all the things that have been rejected in the past.

10:49Margaret also labels an entire section of her fridge for the odds and ends of ingredients. She calls it the eat-me-first box. For example, you want a lemon for your cocktail, and you cut open a lemon, and then you open your fridge and you realize you already had a lemon open. And I will often find like three more lemons in the back of my fridge. I feel like you're looking in my fridge right now. I'm staring at your fridge and finding all your secrets. She assures me this is nothing to be ashamed of. But having an eat-me-first box or even an eat-me-first zone of your fridge can help. It makes it easy to see the half-cut lemons and the open container of coconut milk and the apple that's getting a little wrinkly but still isn't quite ready to retire to the smoothie bag.

11:34That's an organizational tool that I feel helps for everybody. In Tamar's fridge, her organizational tool is making sure everything is stored in her own containers. It becomes kind of a psychological trick. Last night I served olives at this party, and I had gotten them in like a plastic kind of clamshell thing from the olive lady. But I put them in a mason jar before I put them away. Tonight, she says, she'll be more likely to reach for her own jar than a plastic container that screams leftovers. Coming up, I put our chefs to the test with the ingredients that have stumped me in the past.

12:32Emily Siner:done. Find a pro for your projects at Angie.com. That's A-N-G-I dot com. This message comes from Instacart. Everyone prefers things a certain way, like groceries. If you want groceries just how you like them, you gotta try Instacart. They have a new preference picker that lets you pick how ripe or unripe you want your bananas. Shoppers can see your preferences up front, helping guide their choices. Because when it comes to groceries, the details matter. Instacart. Get groceries just how you like. This message comes from ZipRecruiter. Finding great candidates to hire can be like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

13:11Emily Siner:Unless you use ZipRecruiter. ZipRecruiter doesn't depend on candidates finding you. It finds them for you. That's why four out of five employers who post a job on ZipRecruiter get a quality candidate within the first day. And right now, you can try ZipRecruiter for free at ZipRecruiter.com slash zip. That's ZipRecruiter.com slash zip. I decide to put Tamar Adler and Margaret Lee to the test. I mean, it's not often I get to ask professional chefs for personalized food advice. So I bring a list of ingredients that I have personally thrown out many times because they've stumped me. One thing is tomato paste.

13:50So if I have a recipe with tomato paste. I buy it. I use like the one tablespoon and then the rest of it just sits there until it goes back. What's like an easy thing to do with tomato paste? There are a lot. And then, to no one's surprise, Tamar starts rattling off a list of options. Every time you make a tomato sauce, use some. Any kind of a marinade, like a rug on chicken or whatever. Olive-y dressing or an olive tapenade, putting a little bit in there. Any minestrone would be very, very happy. Oh, a fresh pot of rice would be great. And it would all just end up like pinky and delicious. I mean, we've probably used it up.

14:28Yeah. Right? I think we used it up. Alternately, this is what I do more often. I just ignore it when it says use tomato paste. I'm like, no, I'm just going to use a tomato because I can buy one tomato. In other words, you can use tomatoes in just about anything that calls for tomato paste and vice versa. And this is such an important cooking technique that it's takeaway three. You can substitute similar ingredients for each other. Even without knowing a technique, going, okay, what is this like that I would know what to do with? For example, in the case of Tamara's leftover burrata salad, she looked at the cheese and thought, this is a creamy dairy product.

15:07It's a similar consistency to a thick yogurt or sour cream. I can make a dressing with sour cream, so why don't I make it with the burrata? Another example, courtesy of Margaret, is coleslaw. It's usually made with carrots and cabbage. Carrots are a root vegetable. Cabbage is a hearty, leafy green. Maybe instead you could swap it for collards and daikon radish or something. And that allows you to try something new. If you got something from a CSA box that you haven't used before, or something that's kind of hiding in the back of your CRISPR drawer and you didn't know what to do with it, then all of a sudden you have these opportunities to swap one thing out for another.

15:46You might end up with a dish that is totally different than what you expected, but equally delicious. One of the many ingredients that tends to hide in the back of my crisper drawer, unneaten, is lettuce. Because as soon as it wilts, I find it unappetizing. And then I'm relieved when it turns brown enough to just throw away. And then I wonder why I bought it in the first place. So I bring this stumper to Margaret. Lettuces that are getting a little suspect. How do I know if it's good to eat and what do I do with it if it's wilty? We've evolved with the senses to help us make this decision. So like smelling things, the smell test is actually really pretty solid.

16:27This applies to lots of food. If it smells bad, don't eat it. But otherwise, she says, I could pop the lettuce into a bowl of ice water, which plumps it back up. Alternatively, instead of trying to make it as crisp as possible for a fresh salad, I could just expand my idea of how it can be prepared. You can sort of change the texture totally. So you could make a lettuce soup. You could make stir-fried lettuce. This is takeaway four. When in doubt, change the texture. This could look like cooking things that you might normally eat raw, like lettuce or cucumbers. It could look like pureeing wrinkly veggies into a soup.

17:03Or it could look like grinding down the stems of parsley or basil. They still have that same herby taste, but the texture might be off-putting. So Tamar turns them into an herb oil. I'm going to chop these herbs up or just stick them in the blender with a clove of garlic and blend them up and add olive oil. And then it's going to be my, like, base sauce for everything. I tried this at home, and I can attest, a pesto made with the stems tastes exactly the same as a pesto made with the leaves. And it saved me from having to buy twice as many herbs as I need. And so I would never throw those things out.

17:36They're so good, you know. One way to increase the lifespan of all the parts of your veggies is to store them with the right balance of moisture. Baby spinach that you buy in a plastic bag tends to get gooey, Margaret says, because the plastic just retains too much moisture. So if you stick a paper towel or a kitchen cloth in there with the greens, then they'll stay fresher much longer. So things that you notice getting soggy, you could wrap in a dry cloth. Or things that look really dry, you could wrap in a wet cloth. And so kind of managing the right moisture and humidity for things. Not every experiment with every ingredient is going to be successful.

18:16In fact, this is takeaway five. Cooking with leftovers should be an adventure. Like Margaret's mom throwing all the sauces together on a chicken, not trying to achieve the exact same outcome each time. Or Tamar frying rice with whatever she has in her fridge. Going off script is essential to using up leftovers. and that's a good thing. It ends up being this fun game where you are creating something from what seems like nothing and solving this puzzle and then you get to eat it. I think the more that you're creative in the kitchen and you take risks and you try new things, the better of a cook you become and then the more likely you are to get a delicious dish over and over again.

18:52And if it doesn't work, well, that's an adventure in its own right. I over-salted the pasta water like three nights ago, and we just all had to suffer through really salty pasta. And I was like, it's so wonderful to know that we can survive eating this too salty pasta. Now, if it's really inedible, I give you permission to toss it and order takeout tonight. So to recap, takeaway one, think of the end of one meal as the beginning of the next. Takeaway two, labeling is your friend. Takeaway three, substitute similar ingredients for each other. Takeaway four, when in doubt, change the texture. And takeaway five, cooking with leftovers should be an adventure.

19:36It's kind of a game, you know, it's like your own version of chopped, but hopefully you're not having to put gummy bears in your dinner or something. But you know what? If you want to try it, go for it.

19:54That was reporter Emily Seiner. Do you love Life Kit? Then you need to hang out with us on the NPR app. It's the best way to catch every episode. And if you turn on notifications, we'll let you know the minute a new conversation drops. Download the NPR app and let's keep talking. This episode of Life Kit was produced by Margaret Serino and edited by Sylvie Douglas. Our digital editor is Malika Grieb, and our visuals editor is CJ Ricalon. Megan Cain is our senior supervising editor, and Lauren Gonzalez is our executive producer. Our production team also includes Andy Tegel and Claire Marie Schneider.

20:29Engineering support comes from Sina Lefredo. I'm Mariel Segarra. Thanks for listening.

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