Detroit 201

24:13Kiernan:So the island, by the way, it's called Belle Isle, which, you know, good branding. But when it was originally settled by the French in the 1700s, they called it Hog Isle, which I kind of like that too. This is fascinating. I'm looking at a map. I had never seen this. I've never heard of this before. Yeah. Well, that and that's why I wanted to draw so much attention to it, because I feel like I think people a lot of people know that it's there, but don't appreciate how much there is to do on it. And the thing that struck me the most was how many parties were going on on this beautiful summer weekend.

24:48Kiernan:And I was talking to some of my friends who live in Detroit. And they said, Oh, yeah, like this is full families all summer long, they load up the grill, they load up a ton of food, a ton of drink. And like every weekend, every other weekend, they claim these big grilling spots that are all over the island. And they do family parties where they hang out there for like six, seven, eight hours at a time. And so the air is filled with the with awesome grill smells. My kids were like, why can't we go eat those hot dogs? And it's like, well, because we don't know those people. But it's, it's this real festive energy.

25:23Kiernan:And you know, it's beautiful, because it's really accessible. It's really it's it's cheap to go do it's a it's a nice place to escape the urban environment of Detroit and to kind of just get back out to nature with river views. And there's even a beach there That's pretty nice. I mean, people going in and swimming and you could sunbathe and do all your normal beach activities while looking out on Detroit. That is that is surreal. I next time I'm in Detroit, I'm definitely checking this out. And you get that there's food trucks there. There's a couple of food establishments that are open. And I have to say they were better quality than I was like expecting from just like your average, you know, in park food.

26:02Kiernan:But there's also a couple of cultural things that encourage you to seek out. They've got a Coast Guard station there. They also have a lighthouse that's a really cool design. It's like an Art Deco lighthouse, and it's completely made of marble. And it's functional. I mean, it's made to make sure that no ships run aground on Belle Isle. And so it's worth seeking out if you're able. And along the same lines is the sort of beauty of that well-designed lighthouse. there's a fountain that's called the Scott Memorial Fountain. Now I'll say they've just begun a long renovation of the Scott Memorial Fountain.

26:47Kiernan:It's kind of called the Jewel of Belle Isle. You know that great huge fountain in Chicago that you have to go see and it's like a roar of water. It's so impressive. Totally, yeah. That's always on Instagram. Yeah, so the Scott Memorial Fountain is like the equivalent of that. It's huge. It's got dolphins. It's got lions spitting water. It's got a high up jet. And the story behind it is pretty funny. It's named James Scott is sort of this rapscallion historic character in Detroit who basically inherited a bunch of money. but he's renowned for for engaging with prostitutes and frittering away his fortune.

27:29Kiernan:And then somebody gave a huge amount of money to build this fountain, but wanted his name on it. And Detroit was like, hey, you know, beggars can't be choosers. Well, we'll take the fountain. That's so funny. Yeah, he kind of reminds me of you in a certain way. I hope to have a fountain one day. Yeah, I actually know you you you didn't come from this level of wealth. I mean, I know you had the the beach house, but a little different. And so the Memorial Fountain, I think it's due to open in a year. So you're not going to see it in a year. And they were actually it was blocked off while I was there, though I was familiar with this fountain.

28:02Kiernan:But beyond that, there's also a museum that's worth seeking out. They've got sort of like adjacent to each other, these three cultural institutions. One is a conservatory where they, you know, grow and nurture plants and teach you about plants. Then there's an aquarium, there's a nature center, and then there is something called the Great Lakes Museum. And what's interesting about the Great Lakes Museum is that it teaches you about this kind of unique culture of the lake district of this Great Lake area, which, you know, is it's kind of a melding of American and Canadian influence. And the thing that there is to see there, it's called the Gothic Room.

28:45Kiernan:And the Gothic Room is literally a preserved room from a ship called the City of Detroit 3. The City of Detroit 3, I assume there were two others prior to it, that used to run in, I think it was the 50s, between Detroit and Cleveland, Detroit and Buffalo, you know, these northern cities. And those would take many, many hours. So they built like these gentlemen's clubs inside. And it's got the kind of classic dark wood stained glass windows. You can picture lounging in here for hours, looking at the river passing, smoking your cigars. Why can't we do that now? I mean, it is love. Surely you're Googling it because I've described it.

29:29Kiernan:You can have events there. You can get married there. It's a really cool, well-preserved little piece of history that I didn't even know existed. That's really cool. I love that. I want to be on more boats next year. I think it's going to be one of my big resolutions. So I just looked the ship. It dates from the early 1900s, this era of these ships, but it was scrapped in the 1950s. So this this room was saved in 1956 and then it was stored in a barn in Ohio for 10 years before it found this permanent home out on Belle Isle. Just such a nutty, cool thing to have. That's very cool. man you're selling this belle isle i know now here's what's going to turn you against belle eye ryan which is frederick law homestead senior we're not talking about the sons uh was up for the project of designing belle isle and actually was uh he received the commission and he was not a huge fan of the layout of the island uh i have a i have a quote from him here conditions could not be more favorable to the breeding and nursing of mosquitoes in the pools i found discolored and covered by bubbles and green scum and there was a protest putrescent organic matter on their borders putrescent it was it must be related to putrid i imagine yeah i mean you know almost out of the literary guy yeah undergoing the process of decay and rotting all right so now where this is like your other podcast that you do that red lines podcast, we're teaching about words that got canceled.

31:05Kiernan:I know. I just like reminding you about it. That's the one that paid you. So he, he worked, he worked, uh, with Detroit for three years, um, but found it extremely challenging and had, uh, the really extensive ideas of a tunnel system to, to get like water moving in and out of the island. He just saw like what was a swampy area and was trying to convert it into something of like a forest. And in the end, his design was rejected as too elaborate. And so they they argued about the funds and it just got really messy. And Olmsted, after several years of work, said, you know what, good luck and good night and just walked away.

31:50Kiernan:Um, now they do say that the bell aisle that you see today does have some of his influence there because there, it does, you know how in Olmstead parks, he likes to create lots of different types of environments. Yes, definitely. That you definitely feel like you have these cultural areas, you have these kind of hangout playground areas, you have the beach, you have what feels like more wood and you can't see everything all at once. You know, you have to kind of travel the island to get through all these environments. And that feels very Olmstead-y. But ultimately, he was not the one to bring it to fruition.

32:29Kiernan:So an interesting kind of in-between for the Olmstead fan and you. Yeah, well, you know, I think even just to see his influence, you know, would be would be enough. I wonder how they solved some of those issues with the, you know, the bugs and stuff. I think they did a lot of landfill. I think he would I mean, I'm sure his plan included that as well, but it's definitely it does not read as marshy at all. There's I guess there's one area where you kind of see some like inland water and I'm sure that they do get mosquitoes in there. But it's not it sounds like what he was inheriting at that time was was really not palatable.

33:09Yeah, yeah, that's that's tough. I mean, it's a huge amount of work to make these parks as beautiful as they are.

33:16Kiernan:Now, the other thing that I want to highlight with Detroit that I don't think it gets enough cred for is its food scene. And Detroit itself has a great food scene. But the food scene that you just really have to check out is in Dearborn. And if you don't know Dearborn, it's directly outside Detroit. It's D-E-A-R-B-O-R-N. And Dearborn is the first Arab majority city in the U.S. It's 110 ,000 people, has the largest mosque in North America, and it's one of the few U.S. cities where the mayor is Muslim and Arab. It's got Muslim holidays that are a paid holiday for city employees. You can hear the call to prayer.

34:00Kiernan:It's a huge immigrant community. And as so often happens, large immigrant communities means great immigrant food. I have only ever passed through Dearborn. I've never had a chance to eat there. So that sounds fantastic. So it's got the largest population of Arab Americans and the largest Muslim population per capita in the U.S. And you feel it there. I mean, the signs are literally feature Sanskrit and English. I mean, it defines the city. And Dearborn is a city where I have spent a lot of time because Ford's world headquarters is in Dearborn. So it's directly adjacent to all of this wonderful food.

34:40Kiernan:And I had a hot tip from the creative director at the restaurant company I work for, Clover. And she was recently in Detroit for a wedding and met an influencer there. You know, she's very active in the food community and met this TikTok star. His handle is at Halal Food Guru, at Halal Food Guru. And what he does is he goes out and he reviews and he tries great food all around Detroit within a special focus on Dearborn. And they kind of hit it off and he took them to this restaurant that I'll link to in the show notes. It's called Alta Yeb, Alta Yeb, A-L-T-A-Y-E-B. Very unassuming, kind of a strip mall-y sort of place.

35:27Kiernan:There's a lot of great food in these strip malls in Dearborn. And you can get great guides to Detroit food at Eater. You can Google. There's been Bon Appetit articles. There's tons of coverage online for places to call out. But this one I had never seen before. And so we beelined there for a lunch with the family. And it could not have been more delicious. Very reasonably priced. Really just delicious vegetarian food. The falafel that I'm like still thinking about. And they just do, they kind of wowed me with how much they take the same set of ingredients that, I mean, certainly that we have at Clover, but it's kind of that, you know, the chickpea, the cilantro, parsley, like all of these like base ingredients that you associate with Middle Eastern food.

36:21Kiernan:and they create, you know, 30 different variations of it, all of which have different character, different appeal. They, you know, hit you a little more with the umami or they kind of sweetened it up with like pomegranate molasses. I mean, it was really such a feast and we went home with tons of leftovers and I just couldn't recommend it enough. And it made me think, God, I wish I could spend just one week in halal food guru's shoes because there's just so much good food to check out there in Dearborn. Oh, you're making me hungry. Uh, but, uh, yeah, that, that sounds, that sounds fantastic. So over the top.

36:57I mean, you know, it's, I haven't had, you know, one of the things about being in Latin America is you just, you know, the, there's just not the diversity of food options.

37:06Kiernan:Yeah. Yeah. That makes sense. So yeah, like, you know, I'm all those flavors I miss. Well, and you can check out lots of different types of Middle Eastern cuisine because a lot of different immigrant communities come together there. But Detroit itself also has really distinct neighborhoods that still retain their sort of immigrant character. They have one area called Mexican Town. We ordered in from a Mexican place there. And it was, you know, five times better than it like had to be for Mexican takeout food. We just had like basic tacos and fajitas. Really super well done. I was like the only English speaker when I walked in the door.

37:41Kiernan:And that's always what you want. Um, there's Greek town where there's our cool, like Greek diners. Um, and I, I actually, I, it's not particularly known for this, but I once saw a writeup and I did, I remember I was really depressed on a business trip once. And I was like, I just need like a simple, really great meal. And I went to get pupusas, um, at this place called Pupusaria y Ristorante Salvadorano. And, uh, it's still open. They make super authentic pupusas. And, you know, I mean, your dollar goes really far and you feel like you're supporting this kind of family that started this restaurant from scratch.

38:21Kiernan:So really fun food. And then Catherine and I had one night out where we could go to like more of a high end restaurant. And because we had had such a great experience in Dearborn, we chose a sort of high end Lebanese restaurant called Leila. L-E-I-L-A. super accommodating, really fresh ingredients. You know, the table just like felt like summer. We had a tomato salad, they said had nine different types of heirloom tomatoes, and it tasted like that. Really spectacularly done. And it was nice to get the kind of cheap eats version and then the high end version in one trip. So I'd really recommend trying to pair both of them.

39:02Kiernan:And I'd really recommend Layla. The hospitality was perfect. We were sitting outside and started the thunderstorm. They couldn't have been nicer about trying to help us stay outside than finally bringing us inside. It was really spectacular. And I'll link to all of these in the show notes. I also, you know me, I'm a beer drinker. I really just wanted to seek out like one great brewery while I was in town. There are a few that get good write-ups, but in this kind of nowheresville, like industrial road in this kind of warehousey space. I read about and found this place called brewery face on F a I S a N, um, which I believe is pheasant and French, if I'm not mistaken.

39:46Kiernan:Let me see if that's right.

39:50Kiernan:Pheasant. Yes. Pheasant in French. Um, so, uh, brewery face on really good accessible beers. I had like an amber ale there that I really liked. Super cool designs on the cans just laid back a neat place that felt like a passion project from someone who really knows their beer. And then of course, Ryan, finally, really important when you're in Detroit to get Detroit style pizza. So now are you familiar with this style of pizza? Yes, I am. Definitely. I like Detroit style pizza a lot. And so tell me the basics. What do you know? What what what makes it a Detroit style pizza? Isn't it mostly that it's square and like kind of thick?

40:31Kiernan:Yep, that's right. It's got that deep dish like sense about it. It's got four corners, which is great because you want corner pieces to get those crisp caramelized edges. And then the other major thing besides that rectangle, that square rectangle is that they do cheese first and tomato on top than any toppings you want. but cheese goes on first. What? Yeah, that this is this is the way of the pizza. Wow. Interesting. It's a super cool way to to do it. And I really like when they get the like almost burnt crust sides. And, you know, it's very kind of pillowy high dough. And we we consulted a recent list from Bon Appetit of the best pizzerias in Detroit.

41:19Kiernan:Personally, I went to one called Piesci, P-I-E-S-C-I. Actually ended up going there twice on the trip, which tells you how much I liked it. They were less like traditional toppings, much more creative, interesting, but really, really tasty, good combinations and a good representation of this kind of quintessential Detroit style pie. But if you want something more traditional, head to that list. there's great recommendations in there for those that have been around for decades. That sounds great. You're making Detroit the pizza with the pizza. I mean, I assume you don't get much Detroit style pizza in Bogota.

42:03No, I don't want to talk about the pizza in Bogota.

42:06Kiernan:I will say there's a spectacular Detroit style pizza here in Boston. Really? Yeah, I recently stumbled in when a different pizza place was closed. And I said to the guy, this is extraordinary. He said, yeah, you know, I just opened it. I wasn't sure if it was a chain or something I wasn't familiar with. And it was great. Hell, I'll link to them in the show notes, too. Yeah, why not? People, you know, nobody's ever mad to have a good place to go eat pizza. You know, their place is called Detroit Pizza Company. That's the Boston based Detroit Pizza Company. But a really hell of a Detroit style pizza.

42:41Kiernan:I think it's a breakout type of style of pizza. I think it's I think we're going to be seeing it more and more. Yeah, no, that's I know there was a place or two in Brooklyn. I don't remember, but I do remember. I just don't remember the cheese thing. That's surprising to me. I'll be on the lookout for that. well ryan uh i hope i've sold you on a return trip a seventh trip to detroit and i it sounds like i've covered a fair number of places you didn't know which is very uh pleasing to me yeah i think so you know we didn't even talk about diega rivera well that's that's in 101 if you want the murals you go to 101 help maybe you can maybe you can uh go paris detroit to dublin reroute yeah yeah well um uh i think it's time for the last stop the last stop ladies and gentlemen this is the last stop on this train everyone please leave the train well ryan this is the last stop of the show it's the the final segment it's my favorite segment it's your favorite segment it's popularly known as the people segment and that's because it's It's very communal to where we come together.

43:48Kiernan:We put aside the, you know, the meat and potatoes topics that make it into the subject line way up front, the title of the episode. Here we can be ourselves. And mostly we can share. We can share anything. It could be a deep thought. It could be something flippant. It could be a tale or a yarn. It could be a story of woe or it could be celebrating a great piece of content that you found, an article in The New Yorker, maybe even just a cartoon. But it has to check one box. It must inspire the spirit of wanderlust within us, even during the workday week. So Ryan, I'm going to ask you, as I ask you every episode, do you have a last stop this week?

44:25I do, Kiernan. This is sort of like, I don't know that it inspires me, but it's just sort of like a warning. Singapore has been really cracking down on vaping. You know, it's illegal to vape in Singapore. It's illegal to sell vapes.

44:41Kiernan:I believe you can't even, don't they have some regulations around gum chewing there? Yeah, exactly. But I'm not a big gummer. And so those called, and this is from the BBC, those called using or possessing vapes, even regular ones, meaning non-marijuana, will face increased fines starting from 500 Singaporean dollars, which is about 390 US, and state mandated rehabilitation. Good golly. Oh, man. Yeah, so a big chunk of change and then something that sounds kind of frightening, state-mandated rehabilitation. And you used to be in the vape game. I know, and these rules apply to tourists. Good thing you're getting the word out to your fellow vapers.

45:28So apparently they're putting a lot of signs in the airport reminding visitors when they arrive to throw away their vapes. And there are vape disposal bins so people can get rid of them.

45:37Kiernan:I was going to say, if you're in the market for used vapes, this would be the place to pick them up at the airport. I hope Singapore is doing something with those vapes, you know. But, yeah, it's just an interesting thing to see. And, you know, I'm not going to Singapore in the near future, but, you know, I'm going to be in Thailand in December. And I was, you know, figuring I might pop somewhere out. Oh, I didn't know that. Are you and Chase going there? Yeah, it's our big yearly trip. I know you usually do the one that's, yeah, this acquaintance of the show Chase Whiteside. we're gonna get a big episode out of that one i think couple maybe i was gonna say just one hey there's gonna be a lot to tell he's a two-time peabody award loser i have not been to thailand since 2007 huh well that's a you're gonna see some changes i think yeah and the lotus really got me in the in the mood so um major boost to tourism from that don't vote don't vape in uh in singapore uh did you bring a last stop uh this week kieran i did of course and And, you know, in a way, this is an anti-last stop, which is I think it's killing my spirit of wanderlust, which is I was daydreaming.

46:45Kiernan:You know, we always say the best way to stay motivated and not depressed when you're winding a trip down is to start planning the next trip. And I was starting to cast where you and I, Ryan, might visit together. And I've been thinking about St. Louis. It checks a lot of the boxes. It's got a national park there. It's got cultural sites. And, you know, it's kind of one of those not obvious cities to go visit, sort of like the Richmond, Virginia that we went to together or like Louisville. I feel like St. Louis would kind of keep that trend going. And so literally for like, you know, a minute and a half, I went to kayak and I just looked, you know, flights, Boston to St.

47:27Kiernan:Louis, Thursday to a Monday, whatever. And, you know, priced it out. And that was that. And I moved on with my life after a little Googling around St. Louis. Well, the search for that flight has been haunting me for like six weeks. I keep getting these emails from Kayak that started with the subject lines from Boston to St. Louis, starting at$224. Fine. Then two days later, forgot about St. Louis, question mark. And then just email after email after email, all with St. Louis in the subject line. So desperate. You need to submit. You need to just convert. Buy the ticket. The only way out of this.

48:07Kiernan:It's the only way. The most reason why I had the best subject line of all, which was knock, knock, it's St. Louis. Is that really the one that's converting people? Knock, knock, it's St. Louis. So I don't know. I mean, hey, I guess. I imagine that's a little sexier. If it's knock, knock, it's Paris, you know. Yeah, there's something about the formulation. You don't want St. Louis at the door. Knock, knock. It's Rapid City, South Dakota. Anyway, I think it's a good contender. We're not currently planning it, but I'm starting to think about it. And I think St. Louis. And you know what? I think they have a 21C hotel, my favorite hotel brand.

48:50And I think the fact that you use kayak is the most revealing part of that story. Why? What are you using? Google Flights.

48:58Kiernan:Google Flights? You've just given into that Google machine. No, Google Flights is so much better. Trust me. all right i'll give it a whirl all right well i guess i'll have to do another episode on booking flights you know um but uh now that's that's really funny that's i mean you say that but this is the man who's about to do you know four different changes just to get to dublin you know how cheap i am not when not where suits and tattoos are concerned but uh no when it comes to flying i'm like you know i can take an ativan and go to sleep doesn't really matter well kieran knock knock i think it's time for us to to head out head out that was about as good a transition as that subject plan i'm gonna start saying knock knock on this show all the time it's not bad for a tagline it's kind of like pack your bags buster brown knock knock pack your bags buster brown oh well until then I'm Ryan Davis and I'm Kiernan Schmidt and this is out of office a travel podcast this is taken knock knock oh god it's st.

50:03Kiernan:Louis again