Eruption in the Andes: Veil of Ash

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0:57It's the morning of Wednesday, April the 22nd, 2015, deep in the Villarica National Park in central Chile. Nestled against the Argentine border in the foothills of the Andes, the park sprawls across 630 square kilometers of rugged wilderness and encompasses a dazzling variety of scenery. verdant forests carpet the lower slopes, while the high inclines are home to dramatic stretches of rocky plains, meadowland, and a trio of spectacular snow-capped volcanoes. Normally this place has a striking, otherworldly beauty, but not today. A thick grey veil of ash has shrouded the landscape, leeching it of colour and obscuring any distinction between the earth and the sky.

1:47This is the lifeless aftermath of an explosive volcanic eruption. It is totally silent. Nothing moves within the dead, drab expanse. Until something breaks the stillness. The distant sound of footsteps. A moment later, a weak beam of light pierces the darkness, illuminating the powdery ash that falls from the heavens like dirty snow. Two men stumble out of the monochrome haze, following the weak shaft of light cast by their headlamps. With their shirts tied tightly around their faces, all that's visible of their eyes. Encumbered by their bulky rucksacks, 25-year-old Jeff Bryden and 24-year-old Aviv Bromberg pick their way over the uneven, alien terrain.

2:44It was almost like a submarine in the blackest depths of the ocean. It was just this little bubble of light with nothing beyond.

3:03But uncertain of their direction, they can't tell if they're getting closer to the path or further away. it's all too easy to become disorientated. We just found ourselves starting to go in circles. Immediately starting to feel like, okay, are we getting more and more lost? Are we getting closer to the trail or further? And I had no idea. With dwindling food and water supplies and no cell phone signal, Jeff and Aviv are ill-equipped to deal with this apocalyptic landscape. Unsure which of the regions many volcanoes has erupted, or how close it is to them, it's imperative they get out of the area as soon as possible.

3:44But if they can't pick up the trail, there is every chance they will simply wander deeper into the harsh, unforgiving wilderness. And if that happens, there is no telling where or how their adventure will end. We're just kind of stumbling around in this hellscape and getting more and more lost. And so at this point I'm getting really worried and thinking, this is not going to work. We're going to be completely lost in this blackness.

4:21Ever wondered what you would do when disaster strikes? If your life depended on your next decision, could you make the right choice? Welcome to Real Survival Stories. These are the astonishing tales of ordinary people thrown into extraordinary situations, people suddenly forced to fight for their lives. In this episode, we meet Jeff Bryden. In 2015, the 25-year-old has embarked on a six-month backpacking trip through South America when he decides to hike the Villarica Traverse, a 32-mile three-day trek across some of Chile's most awe-inspiring scenery. The hike will take Jeff and his new travel companion Aviv within sight of several of the country's magnificent volcanoes, one of which has recently erupted.

5:07It was still smoking, and there had been a huge eruption, like hundreds of feet high lava shooting into the sky. I could see the smoke was lit up orange and kind of got this ominous feeling like, okay, hopefully it's done erupting. What are the odds that it'll go again? But when Jeff and Aviv wake up on the final morning of their trek to find the world smothered by a dense, grey haze, it reaffirms just how active the region's volcanoes remain. What follows is a scramble to evacuate the area as quickly as possible. But with all indications of the trail subsumed beneath a thick blanket of ash, their journey back to safety will become near impossible.

5:50Toxic fumes, zero visibility, and the threat of further eruptions all hang heavy in the eerie, ash-filled air. In the back of my mind, I'm picturing red-hot molten rock just zipping out of the sky and landing on us. There was just this feeling of, we should get the hell out of here. I'm John Hopkins. From the Noiser Podcast Network, this is Real Survival Stories.

6:41It's Sunday, April the 19th, 2015, in the small city of Pucon, central Chile. tourists touting heavy packs and hiking poles we've their way along the sun-daffled streets past the bars blaring Latin music. There's a plethora of signs and shopfronts advertising extreme sports, adventure experiences, and guided tours. Situated on the eastern shores of Lake Villarica and within striking distance of a number of national parks and nature reserves, it's no surprise Pucon has gained a reputation for being the sports adventure capital of the country. But the real draw is the Villarica Volcano, located just a handful of miles to the south of the city.

7:26This huge glacier-clad beast presides majestically over the surrounding landscape, emitting the occasional cloud of dirty grey smoke. It's considered one of the most active volcanoes in the world, and attracts thrill-seekers from across the globe. One of those is a 25-year-old Californian man who zigzags through the crowded streets, his well-traveled backpack digging into his shoulders. This is Jeff Brighton. I was on a six-month backpacking adventure across South America. I had started in Colombia, and I had a vague goal to make it all the way down to Patagonia, on the southernmost end of South America.

8:07and I had already completed that and now winter was coming and I was kind of making my way back north. In Chile, autumn falls between March and May, with winter beginning in June. With the seasons and the weather soon to turn, Jeff is determined to make the most of his travels before the colder months set in. My destination near the Villarica volcano is known as the adventure capital of Chile, Bucon. So I decided to make my way over there, and I had seen some pretty awesome stuff you can do there. There's rafting, and I had read about this really epic hike, the Villarica Traverse.

8:55Beginning near the volcano it's named after, the Villarica Traverse can be trekked in either three or five days. Jeff has chosen to attempt the three-day route. The 32-mile trail will take him through a staggering array of different scenery, from luscious rainforests to desolate lava fields. And, most thrillingly of all, he will be blessed with spectacular views of the various volcanoes which define the national park. Jeff doesn't intend to hike the trail alone. With him is 24-year-old Aviv Bromberg, a new travel companion he met by chance on the way to Pucon. The winter was coming on, and so I hadn't been able to do a lot of the backpacking and adventures that I wanted to within that last month.

9:39And then I saw this epic weather window coming in of sun. And so I hopped on the bus to Pucon, and on the bus I met Aviv, and just a really friendly Israeli guy who was on a similar journey as me going across South America. I kind of gave him the rundown of this hike I had read about, and he immediately agreed to do it. So we didn't really know each other, but he was friendly and cool, and he signed up for this crazy three-day trek into the wilderness.

10:15But before Jeff and Aviv can set off on their adventure, they need to secure permits to enter the park. Excitedly talking about their upcoming trip, The two men make their way to the ranger's office and step inside, blinking hard as their eyes adjust to the dim electric lighting. In a mixture of English and broken Spanish, they greet the park officials and explain their intention to hike the Villarica Traverse. But their plans are quickly shot down. With apologetic shrugs, the rangers tell them the park is closed until further notice. Recent snowfall at high altitude has made sections of the trail too dangerous to hike.

10:54There is nothing to be done. Slumped with disappointment, Jeff and Aviv walk back out into the bright Chilean sunshine, the wonderful weather almost taunting them. As they meander back to their hostel, they glance up at the Villarica volcano towering above them. They may never be this close to it again. We had this epic weather window that we didn't want to miss out on, And so even though they had told us the whole park was closed, we decided to go for it anyways. It was kind of our last chance before winter, and it was this legendary hike. And I kind of had also figured, you know, we're going into the wilderness.

11:37Human rules don't apply. As long as you're confident and you have everything you need, and that's what backpacking is all about. You're completely self-sufficient. And so we had this confidence that only young men have that we could handle whatever came up. Probably a little too much confidence. Decision made, the two men return to their hostel, their hopes buoyed, and begin making preparations to set out early the next day. Though going against the rangers' instructions obviously carries hazards, for Jeff and Aviv, the chance of hiking the renowned trail is too good to pass up. Besides, Jeff isn't exactly averse to taking risks.

12:18Originally from a much more urban environment, he developed an interest in nature from a young age and has come to enjoy extreme sports and outdoor pursuits. I grew up in San Francisco near a famous street, the Haight-Ashbury area, known for hippies. And so I guess I was kind of living this city life, and yet I was lucky enough that my parents would take me out to Yosemite and I started from a young age to gain an appreciation for nature. I think it's something you appreciate more when you don't have a lot of it around you in a big city. I've always been a bit of an adrenaline junkie, so part of it is the adventure.

13:00And a lot of times when I'm outside, I'm either climbing up the side of a cliff or on a mountain. So yeah, I more calm things like just backpacking and hiking and it's very meditative. But some of my draw is, I guess this adrenaline and adventure. These personality traits have taken Jeff across the globe and into some intense situations. In 2011, he was on a study abroad program in Christchurch, New Zealand, when he was caught up in an extreme natural disaster. I was sitting down in my first class of the semester, and literally before the class was out, The entire room lurched sideways by several feet and just started swinging wildly back and forth for about 30 seconds.

13:50Everyone dove under the desks and the lights were swinging like crazy back and forth. The city ended up getting pretty wrecked and some people were freaking out and making strange decisions. And I remember during that experience realizing that I was able to keep calm under pressure. The 2011 Christchurch earthquake was a major tragedy, killing 185 people, injuring thousands, and causing billions of dollars worth of damage. Jeff was among the lucky ones. But despite his near miss, the experience didn't put him off traveling or seeking adventure. Four years later, he finds himself in South America, preparing to attempt the Villarica traverse despite the recent heavy snowfall.

14:39For a young man like Jeff, it's what life is all about. I guess it just makes you feel alive. You're kind of playing with fear, pushing your limits, and yeah, it just feels great in the moment when you're, you know, soaring down the side of a mountain on a snowboard or launching off a cliff. I guess it shuts your brain up as well. So you're just completely kind of in the moment. You're in a flow state, if you will. Jeff doesn't know it yet, but the Villarica Traverse will prove to be his most memorable adventure to date, just not in the way that he is expecting.

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17:41After making the last of their preparations for the upcoming hike and eating a hearty dinner, Jeff and Aviv settle down to get a decent night's rest. They have an early start tomorrow. The following morning, the two men wake before sunrise. They quietly lace up their boots and grab their rucksacks, trying not to disturb any of the hostel's other guests. Then they climb into a battered taxi that will take them to the trailhead at the base of the Villarica volcano. With an elevation of over 9 ,000 feet, it's an impressive sight, particularly because of its recent activity. It turned out that the volcano had actually erupted a month before, and it was still smoking.

18:24and it had been a huge eruption, like hundreds of feet high lava shooting into the sky. And so I remember we're cruising out in the taxi in the pre-dawn darkness and I could see the smoke was lit up orange and kind of got this ominous feeling of like, okay, hopefully it's done erupting. What are the odds that it'll go again?

18:52After parking up in the foothills of the volcano, Jeff and Aviv pay their driver and swing their packs onto their shoulders. Then they start their hike. The initial ascent follows a demanding incline through a dense, moss-covered forest. As Jeff and Aviv walk, the sun starts to creep above the horizon, bathing their surroundings in a warm, soft light. The trees are ablaze with a riot of red and gold Sure signs of the changing seasons Every so often they'd pause to admire the view The scenery's breathtaking It was a really cool hike You could see different snow-capped peaks in different directions And I remember there was these really weird alien-looking trees Overall it just felt like this really wild wilderness that kind of blew our minds.

19:48The two men weave their way along the path, following the red poles that act as trail markers. They discuss how pleased they are that they've gone ahead with this hike, despite the warnings. We were being dumb, as only young adventurers can be, but we were confident we could handle ourselves and make it through the snow and this park. We had everything we needed to survive, and we had some backpacking experience, And so we just figured, go for it. Jeff and Aviv emerge from the treeline, and the landscape rapidly alters. They step into a series of black lava fields strewn with volcanic rocks. The exposed, rugged landscape is like something from another world.

20:34They pause to admire the views of the Villarica volcano behind them, and the Quetrupian volcano up ahead. Above, a few wispy clouds saunter through the brilliant blue sky. The sun is warm and bright. It's perfect hiking weather. Jeff and Aviv don't see another soul as they continue on their journey. The silence and isolation leave a lot of room for them to talk and get to know each other better. Aviv is just such a great hiking companion. He was always super upbeat. and he was very awed by this beautiful wild landscape. And I remember he had this super old, uncomfortable looking backpack. And yeah, he was just absolutely tireless.

21:21He could have kept going each day well beyond where I got tired, but he was always waiting up for me and a super, super great guy. Eventually, the new friends hit the snow they'd been warned about. The smooth white surface glitters in the sunshine, pristine and untrodden. We finally reached some snow, and this was why they had closed the park. And it turned out to be fine. We could see these red trail markers every few hundred feet, and so that's what you could use to follow the trail. And we also could see no other footprints in the snow, so we knew we were totally alone out there. but it had just gone super well.

22:06We were having a great time, feeling super lucky to have this awesome weather and just feeling alive. In such good conditions, they make excellent progress. By the end of the second day, they've covered about 25 miles. Tomorrow, they should reach their destination in just a few hours. Pleased, they stop for the night within sight of the magnificent snow-covered Lenin volcano, which stands guard on the border of Chile and Argentina. The exact date of its last eruption is uncertain. All in all, it's an imposing presence. Jeff and Aviv set up camp near a beautiful blue lake, its smooth, glassy surface reflecting the setting sun.

22:51After two long days of hiking, the chance to enjoy a refreshing dip is too tempting to resist. But as they glide through the cool, clear water, an odd noise suddenly makes Jeff look up. We're swimming in this lake near our campsite, and I did hear this distant boom. It wasn't like super earth-shaking, it was kind of just a very subtle boom. And yeah, I just wrote it off as rockfall. Didn't really think much of it. The enigmatic, distant rumble dies away And is replaced by silence once more Putting the strange noise to one side The two men relax and enjoy the rest of their evening After drying off and having dinner They crawl into the shelter of their tent And slide into their sleeping bags So far, this trip couldn't have gone any better We were just feeling good And glad we had ignored the park service and gone for it and went to bed thinking, wow, we're so lucky.

24:03When Jeff's alarm wakes him at 8 a.m., he groggily reaches out to quieten it. But when he opens his eyes, he sees only blackness. He blinks. Nothing. I wake up to complete darkness. I couldn't even see my hand in front of my face. It was like being blind. Uncertainly, Jeff gropes for his headlamp and switches it on. The beam carves a path through the darkness of the tent, but reveals nothing out of the ordinary. He checks the time again. It's definitely 8am, morning. Confused, he crawls towards the canvas door and unzips it. What he sees outside makes his breath catch in his throat. As soon as I open the door to the tent, I just see this blizzard of ash.

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26:12It is the morning of Wednesday, April the 22nd, 2015. The skies above Chile's Villarica National Park are ominously dark, the sun swallowed up by a thick cloud of volcanic ash. The fine gray flakes fall silently onto the rocky terrain, draining the world of color and making it impossible to see more than a few inches ahead. From the shelter of his tent, 25-year-old Jeff Bryden gazes out at the shrouded landscape in disbelief. It's virtually unrecognizable from the vibrant, varied terrain he's been trekking with his friend Aviv for the last couple of days. It just looked like a heavy snowfall of ash, and the ground is already covered with about an inch or maybe two of ash.

27:00And it's just completely silent. and my headlamp is really only able to cut through about five feet of this blizzard. Horrible visibility. Aviv wakes up as well and we're both like, oh, this could be bad. It's immediately clear what's happened. One of the many volcanoes which pepper this region must have erupted. In the last two days of hiking, Jeff and Aviv have already passed Ketrupian and Villarica, which has erupted only a month before. But last night, they camped within sight of Lanine, an ice-covered stratovolcano with an elevation of over 12 ,000 feet, which hasn't erupted in years. Surrounded by the dense cloud of ash with terrible visibility, it's impossible for Jeff and Aviv to tell which volcano has erupted, and therefore how close they are to extreme danger.

27:58Jeff has recently completed a natural disasters course He's been taught that in this situation There are many dangers to be aware of I had learned that it's not actually the lava You should be worried about with these eruptions It's called a pyroclastic flow That's basically a landslide of scorching hot ash And rock can come blasting down the side of the mountain At over 100 miles an hour And so I was thinking about, are you in the path of what's basically an avalanche? It could also melt a lot of the glaciers on the volcano, so that can create what's called a lahar, and that's also a similarly deadly phenomenon.