The Man Who Took Over Savile Row With Just $10,000

11 Mar 2025 · 59 min

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Podcast Episode Summary: The Man Who Took Over Savile Row With Just $10,000

Episode Overview In this episode of Secret Leaders, hosts Dan Murray-Serter and Chris Donnelly interview Sean Dixon, co-founder of the luxury tailoring brand Richard James. With only £10,000, Sean transformed his brand into one of the most prestigious names on Savile Row, the renowned tailor street in London. The episode explores Sean's journey, the challenges he faced, and how he built a brand that attracted A-list celebrities, all while navigating the complexities of the luxury fashion industry.

Key Themes and Discussions

The Beginnings of Richard James

  • Starting with Limited Resources: Sean and his co-founder Richard James began their business in 1992 with a modest overdraft of £10,000 amidst a UK recession.
  • Initial Challenges: The early days included significant difficulty in attracting customers. Their store was often empty, and they faced multiple break-ins.

Unique Position in the Market

  • Niche Target Audience: Unlike traditional Savile Row retailers catering to an older clientele, Richard James targeted younger, creative professionals looking for tailored suits that offered a blend of tradition and modernity.
  • Innovation in Design: The brand introduced unique fabrics and creative designs to stand out in a market dominated by traditional tailoring.

Celebrity Connections

  • Dressing Icons: Richard James quickly gained attention by dressing celebrities such as Elton John, Daniel Craig, and Oasis. Notably, Sean recounts an iconic moment when both Elton John and Oasis were in the shop simultaneously.
  • Milestone Moments: Significant sales events, including a bulk purchase by Gianni Versace and Elton John, marked turning points for the brand and helped solidify its reputation.

Surviving Economic Downturns

  • Resilience in Business: Sean discusses how the business faced economic challenges, including recessions, but ultimately adapted by diversifying clientele and offering unique products.
  • Building Through Word of Mouth: During their early years, the brand relied heavily on word-of-mouth marketing, a strategy that seems increasingly difficult in today’s market dominated by social media.

The Evolution of Savile Row

  • Heritage and Authenticity: Sean emphasizes the unique historical significance of Savile Row and its ongoing relevance in luxury fashion. He mentions the authenticity of bespoke tailoring as a key selling point in today’s digital world.
  • Modernization vs. Tradition: The brand has sought to modernize the traditional tailoring experience while retaining the craftsmanship associated with Savile Row.

Insights on Luxury Fashion

  • Challenges for New Businesses: Sean reflects on how starting a business today comes with different challenges, emphasizing the fierceness of competition and the necessity of a strong brand identity.
  • Quality vs. Accessibility: He raises concerns about luxury brands becoming too accessible, which can dilute their exclusivity and perceived value.

Future of Tailoring

  • Changing Trends: Sean notes a shift in menswear preferences with more adventurous colors and styles emerging, especially in casual settings post-COVID-19.
  • Adapting to Market Changes: He highlights the need for luxury brands to adapt to changing consumer tastes while maintaining their unique identity.

Key Takeaways

  • Persistence and Adaptation: Sean's journey illustrates the importance of resilience, creativity, and adaptability in business.
  • Value of Craftsmanship: The episode reinforces the importance of quality, authenticity, and personalized service in the luxury market.
  • The Role of Heritage: For businesses in traditional industries, like tailoring, embracing heritage while adapting to modern needs is crucial for continued success.
  • Navigating Challenges: Sean’s insights provide a roadmap for budding entrepreneurs on how to face uncertainties and build a brand in a competitive marketplace.

Conclusion In this episode, Sean Dixon shares an engaging narrative of how passion, hard work, and a unique approach to tailoring led to the establishment of Richard James as a prominent name on Savile Row. The discussion offers valuable lessons for both aspiring entrepreneurs and established business leaders in the luxury fashion industry.

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Transcript

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0:00Richard James Suits is far more than just a Savile row tailor. What started in 1992 with a modest£10 ,000 overdraft has transformed into one of Britain's most influential luxury brands. We came across this tiny little store with a 2-let sign. It's like£15 ,000 a year. It seemed like a lot. Now it seems like a couple of days now. I think we've broken into it about three times, four times. And God, you know, we might not be selling much, but at least people want to break in and steal it. That's something. While most people know Richard James for dressing icons like Elton John, Nicole Kidman, Daniel Craig and Oasis.

0:32Doing a fitting on, no, on Liam. At the same time, we were doing a fitting on a captain of industry, a massive multinational company at the same time. And then in the walk, Tell St John. We made a, actually it was a coat furvester Alex Ferguson, and that came about because we were doing something with Nike. What's less understood is how they've managed to survive and thrive over three decades in an industry where competitors have fallen out all around them. And that's what's great about Business House. We are fairly unique. We're small, we're unique, we're niche. So it's okay if you're Louis Vuitton.

1:01What business you're losing here in London, you're more than making up for in Paris or Milan or wherever. You did Noel Gallagher's iconic number 10 suit as well. Yeah, I think he won awards when he went to meet Tony Blair. Are you talking to them for the summer? Not allowed to talk about it, obviously. Sean, tell me about the moment you decided to enter Savile Row with£10 ,000 in 1992. What was going through your head? yeah probably 1992 was a time of recession in the UK there wasn't much going on it was pretty pretty it felt quite dire the full economic story I won't bore you with but uh but it felt things things weren't weren't easy myself and Richard had a business before it hadn't worked out it's very much more of a fashion business we'd always we'd always worked with Savile Row we'd always kind of uh you know dealt with Savile Row and and enjoyed having things made there more for more for of kind of samples just to try things out.

1:56We had a conversation with some tailors there, and they said, oh, why don't you come on to Savile Row and you can do that ready-to-air, and we'll do the bespoke. We kind of talked about that. But the people we were talking to, we realised that culturally we were so different. This was just not going to work. Whilst we were on Savile Row, we came across this tiny little store with a 2-let sign on it. Why don't we give the landlord or the agent a call and see what's going on there, and call them up. and they said yeah yeah yeah we can have it's like 15 000 pounds a year seemed like a lot but you know now it seems like that's a couple of days now um and uh and yeah well okay we'll we'll try it we'll give it a go didn't really have we had not much knowledge about uh about how to start up but we we we had some enthusiasm we respected we we knew what cell world was about we loved it and we thought we could do something different and so yeah with our without very limited funds we took the store over moved in tried to put a collection together we realized it felt like several rows a little bit flat at the time it had a fantastic heritage incredible history but it just felt a little bit flat and we kind of wanted to bring back some more interest some more color so we kind of went to different mills that made fabrics we'd go to scotland go to yorkshire and because things were tough these these these mills wouldn't normally wouldn't bother with us they kind of said okay well we'll we'll we'll make some some small runs of fabric for you and we'll make them unique and so we'd we'd take up we'd have a tweed and put a kind of bright lime green check through it or pink check through it just make it slightly different and and and um put those in the store and make those and and and yeah we we just try to be a bit a little bit different and i think because of that our peers at the time were designer clothing is what it was cool design clothes were kind of big but we you know they kind of i think there's a there was a gap for men that wanted something that has a sign of quality and some sort of heritage and some sort of touchstone to heritage but also a little bit a little bit different a little bit more forward a little bit more creative and and that's really how we still how we started and and created a clothing line around that we had a very specific kind of audience in mind kind of creative professionals that would understand what we wanted but the reality was it was much broader than that you know people people from all sorts of all works of life at that time we had there was something called dress down fridays going on which is which i don't know whether you've heard of that now but it's that everyday yeah now it's dressed down it does happen to be friday and we both look like we've turned up to dress down friday with you i'm sorry so dress down fridays was a big thing it was and so all the banks all the law firms all the things you know you could you could kind of you know more or less wear what you want wanted so you know i was answering questions which i have been basically the whole time what are you guys doing opening this kind of formal kind of clothing when when people are actually the direction the general movement and general direction is is a more casual but actually what happened is what was happening especially in those banks and those guys couldn't really do dress down it was a bit of a disaster you know and actually quite a lot of the younger guys, they kind of went the other way, especially in some of the investment banks.

5:21We're going to dress up. We want to look completely different. So quite a lot of our clientele, Salvo Road traditionally at that time had a much older clientele, probably in 50s, 60s guys, you know, it's much more established, establishment, proper establishment. We suddenly had guys in their kind of 20s coming in and kind of wanting to have a chalk stripe suit, but they wanted it to be kind of, you know, orange or or you know you know just just to stand out and and they wanted to look as sharp as possible and and and and look a bit different and we we kind of filled that gap it was going to you know that's really i guess how we how we got going in that respect and so going back to those early days you i read had a 10 000 pound overdraft yes that's how we started that's how you started yeah had your business before that been successful and so what sort of financial position were you both in at the time we both owned our properties and so use those as use that's collateral so we have personal you know guarantees on that and the bank would would lend us against that was that was that basic yeah those numbers seem really small now they are kind of small now but then they felt quite big you know quite substantial and i remember thinking but i do i we you know the business that i'd worked with richard on before did go into administration and bankruptcy, I remember thinking, God, I just don't want that to happen with this business.

6:47You know, I don't want to see, I don't want to experience that. You know, that's the last thing I want to do. Did you make money quite quickly? Like, how were the early days? No, we didn't make money at all quickly. So we had this tiny little store on South Row, which is probably our changing rooms in the main store are probably bigger than the store then. We filled this store up with, you know, what we thought were really nice clothes, unusual clothes, and opened the doors and just expect people to come in. I'm flooding in. And no, they didn't. I mean, it was interesting. We actually did have a lot of, we did have a lot of press.

7:27We knew people in the business and there was a lot of goodwill towards what we were doing. I still think people didn't quite, you know, they weren't quite ready for it. And, you know, Savile Row, Savile Row then was quite, we opened on a Saturday and nothing was open on Saturday. So I'd go in the store and sit there, wait for people to come in. Basically, the only people come in was someone looking for change for the parking meters. And that's really what it was like for a while. And we both had to do other things to survive. We didn't earn any money from the business. We couldn't exist just on that.

7:57There wasn't anything coming in. When you go to a landlord, there's a space, it's£10 ,000. Did they not qualify in advance? Are you making a tailoring business here? Because it's Savile Row? They didn't, actually. it's really very little there are very little questions were asked I think that building was probably in a process of being was about to be redeveloped and I think the landlord just think well I just fill the space up with these guys and if they pay the rent great if they don't you know it's not too much of a big deal we're going to put it down but we you know obviously we did pay the rent but then we gave us we you know we're on a six month notice period any time they could just say six months you're out we're going to do it which did it you know which did eventually happen I look back now would be absolutely impossible to do to do that now you know that you'd have to virtually go through interviews with the landlords just you tell them what they want to do what's your marketing ideas what's your pr ideas and then also you know we will take a year's deposit because we don't know what who you are and and whether you can survive i have to ask because your your name's obviously sean dixon you got your co-founder richard james uh was it roll of the dice Yeah, we, yeah.

9:09Flip a coin, ah, ten, bugger. Bugger, I see, yeah. It was interesting. Richard had had a business previously. It felt like, let's just maintain that goodwill. I was very much quite happy to be more in the background anyway when we started the business. And I thought, I don't know how long is this going to last, whether we're going to, you know, as I said, I was doing other things. And so it kind of made, it made more sense. And I was quite happy for that to be the case. Did you have the same skills? Were you both tailors? No, neither of us were tailors. I came from a much more business background, commercial background.

9:45Richard was a designer. He'd worked in some significant stores as a buyer. So we kind of came up from, we had a different skill set, but we both knew that we liked men's clothing. We wanted to make a difference and try and change things. So for those that don't know, What's the history and the legacy behind Savile Row? God, yeah. Savile Row is a really fascinating street, I think. Totally unique. There's nowhere else I'd like it in the world. It's about, I think, almost a 200-year history of suits. I mean, originally, what's quite interesting is actually, originally, Savile Row was the doctors.

10:25Were doctors based in Savile Row. It was the original Harley Street, was it? Harley Street had the tailors. No, very well. It actually swapped over around about, I can't remember, mid-19th century. I think the first Taylors was Henry Paul to move into Savile Row then. So our kind of 30-odd year history is a kind of blink of an eye compared to some of these. So, yeah, so it's got an incredible history. And, you know, in the centre of one of the most expensive cities in the world, you have people working and actually making things, sewing things, putting things together. You know, that's kind of unique.

11:04And that's probably something that really needs to be preserved and maintained and valued, you know, because there's not many other, you know, property, land is expensive. And we are in, you know, we're in Mayfair, but there are still people making things. So you can walk down Savile Row, you can look downstairs in the basements and you can see people sewing, putting things together. it's pretty unique. The authenticity, if you think about how much the ways of working is changing everywhere in every industry and stuff, there aren't many categories where you feel like even in a hundred years, that would still be perceived as value to the consumer.

11:42But you can imagine that in this space. I think so. It's one of the things I always talk about. We're kind of an analog business, in a very digital world. It's one of those things that, especially bespoke tailoring, It can't, there's certain things that have basically remained the same for 100 years and probably will have to remain the same. And I think people, you know, respect that things take time and there's a slowness to it. Everything slows down and it has to be considered. You know, maybe there will be some sort of tech innovation that kind of changes bespoke. I, you know, I'm not sure.

12:18But I think our customers specifically quite like that the things slow down. and you kind of enjoy the process. And also, you know, it's handmade. And what you get with handmade is an individualism that you don't get with kind of mass-produced, you know, factory-made garments, you know. I mean, the buttonholes on a bespoke suit actually kind of look a little bit wonky, but that's part of the charm. You know, that's what you can see. That's how you can spot a Savoy suit, bespoke suit. You know, I think that's what's really special. Not the usual selling point. Oh, those wonky buffets. Yeah, yeah, yeah.

12:54That's what you're paying for. That's the value. When I say wonky, they're not just, you know, Slightly off-centre. Slightly. Just some small, tiny, tiny little things that make a difference. It's a bit like the kind of the radiators on a grill on a Rolls-Royce. You know, apparently each one can be spotted by the person that made it. You know, it's kind of a little bit like that with several red suits. Yeah, with the Rolls-Royce, they draw on the lines and so forth by hand. Yeah, exactly. Exactly. It's a craftsmanship to it. Exactly. Do I understand that the Japanese word for suit comes from saburo?

13:26Yes, that's absolutely right. A two-piece traditional suit is quite often referred to in Japan as saburo. That's what they understand a two-piece suit to be. And that dates back from 150 years. So still, in Japan, people refer to it as saburo. That's funny. So the Japanese particular, is that a particular demographic of customer that you guys notice? Japan has a fantastic respect for quality and craftsmanship. And that's reflected, I think, in everything they do themselves. A total understanding, wanting to understand how things are put together and trying to make it better. And I think there's a real appreciation for what Savaro stands for in Japan.

14:14And I think there's a similar appreciation for tailing from Naples, you know, that they also like. But I think there's a, you know, there's a kind of affiliation with Savile Row and that kind of British look. And they like that style. So, yeah, no, absolutely. There really is. One of the main problems with having a physical presence is things like break-ins. And I heard that you've had quite a few. When we first started the business, our tiny little store, I think we were broken into about three times, four times in the space of five or six months. And God, we might not be selling much, but at least people want to break in and steal it.

14:53That's something. But yeah, it was quite an exhausting process. You kind of get a call at four o 'clock or five o 'clock in the morning. We were bearing in mind, we were 100 meters from West End Central as well, just down the road. didn't seem to really prevent people breaking in. But yeah, it was a pretty, we had very limited funds with our£10 ,000 overdraft and we'd have to remake stuff. And at the end, we were just emptying the shop every day, every night and just hope for the best and get a call. So we have a lot of startups, new businesses on this show and we often talk about how they think about entering the market, how they think about going up against established companies.

15:38So when you started and you were looking at Savile Row, what was it that you were like, we are going to make this so different that people are going to come here? What was your USP? Did you have a business plan? Right, no, we really didn't have a business plan. It was a kind of, yeah, let's just do this and try and figure it out as we go along. How difficult can it be? It actually was quite difficult. we love men's clothing we love several of what it's before we just thought there's something we can add to it we can maybe add something a little bit different and and and maybe bring a little bit of life and and joy and humor into to what we were doing and and you know that was the kind of that that was the plan and um the other the other people on several kind of looked at us thought yeah who are these guys i mean they're you know jumped up youngsters yeah they're really you know I do remember 10 years later, we put on the windows for our celebrate our 10 year anniversary, the kind of comments that we'd accumulated over the years of, at least it's not boots or, you know, one end of a needle from another.

16:45I mean, I've got to say our relationship with the rest of the world is really good now. We're considered part of the new establishment. But back then, I definitely think it was like, yeah, these guys aren't going to be around for five minutes. Was there a bit of a backlash from the Taylor and Community? Not a backlash. I think it's just general kind of ambivalence.

17:04Ambivalence is, you know, that's quite positive from British people. Well, I guess so, yes. Yeah, I mean, there was the odd person would come and say hello, but otherwise I think generally ignored and hopefully they'd go away. But I think, actually, I think what we did, without kind of blowing our drum, I think we kind of, we created a kind of modernisation of Savile Row. where we kind of, you know, our attitude was much more open, much more democratic. We didn't kind of just expect everyone to have a huge country estate, you know, and work in the city. Medium-sized country estate as well. It was good, yeah, yeah.

17:43But, you know, most of the people were entrepreneurs, self-made people, you know, and they didn't want to be judged when they went to a, you know, It was daunting going into some of those places back then. Now I think it's not. I think there's a much more modern approach and much more welcoming. And you can have someone who's 80 and has been having bespoke suits made their whole life. Or you can have someone who's kind of 23 in the tech business and also wants to have a salary suit made. So you've been through real recession periods where I think you've said, we only sold a couple of ties what were those periods like i mean what sort of drop off in business are we talking about and how long until it came back well i think the the the only couple of ties is when when we first started the business that's that's probably had about two two years two and a half years of wow this is really slow and this is this is this is tough you know you just kind of think god is any is this ever going to change are we ever going to you know really get started here and and that was right at the beginning and and it and then all of a sudden it did change you know and it's really hard to put my finger on i i you know i felt one maybe it's one time i remember being in the store saturday i was on my own it was always on my own it's either one of us we've taken it's only two of us so yeah we did everything so i was on my on saturday and uh and uh i was sitting around probably reading the paper or doing you know not much else to do and uh and someone someone came in this this couple came in and and uh they were quite glamorous couple i think he was from he was probably middle eastern uh i think i can't remember where she was from he lived in switzerland and i kind of got the feeling he was he was looking around thinking what am i doing here and she was kind of being very enthusiastic and saying i think she wear this and this is great you know and they ended up you know buying a lot of clothes you know out of out of nothing you know and i you know didn't know much about them and i thought okay if people like this can really understand and want to buy you know maybe there's something here maybe we can really really make it work so that was kind of a turning point i felt for me that was this kind of turning turning point because it's like obviously a very famous moment where you have uh gianni versace and elton john come in and you know clear out the store and this big moment that if you're in the journey long enough as founders, you often do find that moment.

20:12You've got to be patient and wait for that great moment. I agree. I think that's what was it like before that great moment then? So how much silence are we talking? A lot of silence, a lot of silence. And, and a lot of, I don't know what we're doing here. Is this, is this really, really going to work? I've listened to quite a few of your, your, your, your podcasts with other people. And it is that kind of you're waiting. There's a moment, there's a combination of you've given everything you can, you've tried as hard as you can, bit of luck, and then just waiting for that moment to happen. And actually that moment also was a very big moment for us because that time that, you know, Elson John came in, he bought John and Versace, they had their respective partners, they were sizes 38, 40, 42, 44, which is all we had in terms of tailoring the shop.

20:58And they basically bought everything. And kind of - And they literally bought everything. Literally bought everything, emptied the shop, you know, Oh, wow. We didn't have, you know. How much is that? That then wasn't an awful lot. I imagine it probably came to about£60 ,000 in terms of telling we're not much left. But, you know, we had other stuff left. But, you know, it really cleared us out. And having someone, you know, as respected as Gianni Versace was back then kind of coming and buying clothes, which he actually, I think his next collection was called Savile Rock. So he kind of, we inspired that collection.

21:34and and how does that happen how does how do they find out about you how do they decide to come in with such conviction so deeply into your store yeah because this is back this is obviously you know you know what probably 95 96 something like that so prior to any sort of social media we would have press in men's magazines i think you know newspapers things like that but i think word of mouth word of mouth was that's what we were relying on that's a great way of building a solid business then you know people tell their friends their friends tell you know and they come in and then you you have a really solid kind of recommendation basis absolutely impossible to do that now you would not have the time to do that your costs are too high your rent's too high all those things you'd be absolutely impossible to do that do that now back then we had the time to build on word of mouth and I think that's a really, really solid basis.

22:33Someone mentioned to Elton, John, you should go and check out this store, which he did. Did he literally walk in and say, I'm having everything? Or was he in for hours? He was in for quite a while. I can't remember how long it was. Probably didn't feel that long. Probably was a bit longer. No, probably an hour and a half, something like that. One of the things about having a retail environment is you want to create an atmosphere where people want to stay. You know, it's still what we want to do now. People spend time in and enjoy and relax in. So, you know, I think that was that. We had that feeling then.

23:07That's what happened. Who are some of the most interesting people you've made suits for? I've been really lucky to make suits for all sorts of people and many people. I think I remember when we first started, Madonna came into the store and she wanted to buy some clothes, I think it was for her brother. He apparently was the same size as me. So I kind of spent kind of half an hour with Madonna trying suits on and kind of modeling them for her. She was saying, no, I don't like that. Try this one. And that kind of went on for quite a while. And then I remember people coming to the show, what on earth is going on here?

23:39You're getting stalled by Madonna. I tried clothes on for Madonna whilst, you know, in a kind of store. Yeah, yeah, that was quite, that was, yeah, those sorts of things happen all the time. We made a, actually it was a coat for Sir Alex Ferguson. And that came about because we were doing something with Nike. They approached us to do something. We were going to work with them on upscaling a lot of their sportswear. I think that I remember having, we met someone, this is quite an interesting story on its own. We met someone who was running, I think it was the football, the football section of Nike.

24:15These guys all have, you know, tennis, football, golf, and they're all running kind of multi-billion pound businesses just on their own. and I think the guy one of the guys was running football he said his argument was like we have these fantastic athletes we dress them but you kind of go to the you know during the World Cup or turn up at the you know the Holland team's hotel and they're all sitting around wearing these bright orange polo shirts which are ill fitting and don't look don't look that good you know have a Nike swoosh on them but we want to try and improve that we want to try and you know can we tailor it can we improve that can we make the favourites So anyway, that was a conversation that was ongoing with Nike.

24:57And on the back of that, also, I think they wanted us to talk to their staff. I think I remember doing a massive presentation to all their store managers from all around Europe about service. How do you serve people? I've got to say, they were all fantastic. Great guys, young guys, really, really good. And they really were interested in learning. because obviously, you know, selling someone a bespoke suit is a very different to just someone walking in and off the street. And so they kind of wanted, how do you do that? How do you kind of convey that? How do you make people feel really valued? And that was part of our thing.

25:32Ultimately, we get to Alex Ferguson. So they said we got, I think it was the, I think it was the, it was a very big game. I think it was against Manchester City. Could you make Alex Ferguson a suit? So we went up there, went up to Carrington, I think where the training ground is and measured him and made him a coat. and I think we put a Nike swoosh lining in there or something. And yeah, it was great. It was a great, great thing. Fortunately, they lost that game. And I don't think he ever wore that coat again. The Oasis moment as well. That feels pretty special. Obviously quite relevant for today on their combat tour.

26:10Pretty much the most exciting thing I've got going on in my summer. Who are you going to do? Okay. So I'd love to know, you know, how did that come about? And they seem such unlikely people for that image, right? And when I really think of them, I think of like Stone Island and some like, you know, shell suits and that kind of vibe. This is such a juxtaposition. And juxtaposition is obviously one of the most visually stimulating ideas that can actually happen in fashion. So in many ways, it seems perfect. What was the experience for you? Yeah, I actually can't even remember how that happened, how they ended up coming in, I've got a feeling it's just, you know, wandered in.

26:51And that was... Where was the store? I mean, unbelievable. You know, it must have been right in front of people. Savile Row, no, we were on Savile Row and it was, yeah, I guess someone must have said something once again, a word of mouth. And I remember them coming. I remember the whole band coming in after Nedworth to have some suits made. And Liam, no, everybody. I mean, they were pretty worse for wear, as you can imagine. But I've got to say, you know, Liam, I think, was definitely the driving force. And he had really great taste. Yeah. Really great style. Yeah. Yeah. And he knew exactly what he wanted.

27:32You know, he wanted to have something made and he knew exactly what he wanted and how he wanted it to be. And it was, you know, it was fantastic. It was a real pleasure. You know what I mean? So we kind of made his suit when he got married to Patsy Kent. We made her suit as well. You know, I think we did the same for Noel. He got married. So, yeah, it was an amazing situation. And we kind of probably, at that time, I think the business was on such a roll that we kind of didn't take it for granted, but it was just happening. And you did Noel Gallagher's iconic number 10 suit as well. Yeah, I think when he went to meet Tony Blair.

28:08Yeah, yeah, yeah. Are you talking to them for the summer? Not allowed to talk about it, obviously. I'd love to, but I don't know. Not yet. Work on it. So I feel like that might be, you know, you were so busy, so successful, so many incredible people coming in. It almost just felt like that was the norm. It kind of, it did actually become like that. You know, I was feeling like I'm one of those kind of cab drivers. You never know who I had in the back of my cab last night. It's that sort of thing. One of the most iconic moments I remember, and I do remember pinching myself, is we were doing a fitting on Liam, and he was great.

28:50He was always quite funny. He was always kind of joking around. At the same time, we were doing a fitting on a captain of industry of a massive multinational company, serious businessman, big name. I can't remember saying his name, but well-known household name at the same time. and then in Walt Elson John as well. So we had three people, you know. That's very cool. Completely different. At the same time. Exactly the same time. And I remember thinking, God, how's this going to go? You know, because Liam's not shy. Yeah. But actually. Well, Elton's quite well known for being quite out there as well.

29:26And he was, you know, he's also not shy. And it just gelled. And I was standing back and I said, well, there can't be many businesses and the clothing businesses we have. these three people have very very different takes and very different styles ultimately having the same thing it's just their their approach and how they put it together and what they you know made the difference you know i'm making a very classic kind of business suit for one person and you know they were all more or less the same thing it's just they just the way they it's just their attitude they brought with it it changed it what do you think that you're offering at richard james that was just different to other people on sable row where you would find three types of people like that i think it's i think probably our approach number one um our flexibility as well to to to do things and you know i think there's people wanted to associate with with that particular style and and uh and yeah i think there's a you know the way we did something you know in terms of making things was no different to anyone else on savoura you know we we we all have to abide by the same process but yeah i think it's possibly probably approach as much as anything else and an openness what's the most sort of eccentric suit you've ever made like what's the the craziest thing you've ever been commissioned to do i don't i never really think anything's that crazy you know i think everything's possible and and and everything's open i do remember we had one of our clients kind of older gentleman very very wealthy and he used to have to wear a suit for the opera and I kind of think he was slightly resented it.

30:59So he asked us, could you make me a camouflage suit? You know, do a several row suit of camouflage. Like he's in the army? An army, basically army pattern suit. Yes, the British military. Yeah, that sounds great to be fair. Yeah, yeah. Well, that's like a rave. Yeah, yeah. We did that. And yeah, he looked great, you know, and he said he loved it because it kind of, you know, I guess it's kind of being disrupted before the word really existed then. and he'd turn up to the opera and have a box and still look really smart, but he was wearing a... Yeah, it's classy and outspoken at the same time. It's kind of is outspoken.

31:35It's challenging. Is there anyone that you wouldn't make a suit for? No. Putin walks in tomorrow. Okay. Are you doing that? Well, if he does come in, we have to assume everything's better. No, yes, that's a hard one to say. You'd be effing terrified turning him away. I mean, we have made suits for people that have turned out to be terrible people in the past, but not at the time, you know, so yeah. Prince Andrew walks in looking for a suit? We have made suits for Prince Andrew. Oh, you have? Okay, fair enough. I suppose when you first started, were there any, like, taboos that you made, any rules that you broke that, I mean, you said earlier that people gave your store quite funny comments about being you, but was there anything that you were doing seriously against the grain or rules that you were clearly breaking?

32:25There are lots of rules for men's tailoring, especially on South Rowan. There's so many. I mean, not supposed to wear brown shoes, suede shoes in the city, all that sort of kind of polar nonsense. I think you have to know the rules to be able to break them. So, yeah, no, there was nothing that we wouldn't consider if it looked good and if the person that was for was kind of comfortable in that. Absolutely. You know, no, the rules are there to be broken. What about partnering with high fashion figures like Christian Lacroix? Like, what does that do for reshaping? I mean, he came in right at the beginning.

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33:02Charming guy, you know, really, you know, and also it was quite at the height of his, you know, recognition and what he was doing. And yeah, he'd come in and buy jackets, I think tweed jackets from us. and they were, you know, once again, you know, grey or brown or beige, but very strong orange, lilac overchecks, just that he loved colour. That's what he was all about. And then he'd wear them on kind of the closing of his fashion shows and you'd kind of see him wearing these things. And, you know, it was just really fantastic. For us, it was kind of almost a vindication that someone with this level of taste and this level of style kind of appreciated what we do.

33:42I mean, that was the early days, so there weren't many other people. But you're going to think, well, if he likes it, we must be able to get out there, reach more people. Can you give us the scope and the scale of the business today? What has it evolved into? It's changed quite a lot now. We have two stores on Savile Row. One is ready to wear, and one is purely for... We have a whole building devoted to bespoke and made to measure. We probably have the biggest square footage of anyone else on Savile Row. So going from probably the smallest to the biggest. So that's changed quite a lot. You should have fucked with Richard and called the bigger one Sean Dixon.

34:21Yeah, we should have done. We'll go back to that. Rename it. And we also have a store in New York now, 57th and Park Avenue, which is a great address. Substantial business overseas. So it has changed quite a lot. But I think the ethos of the business still remains the same. We probably could have grown a lot more than we have. But I think we've kind of maintained a certain... We've maintained what we wanted to do and keep a certain integrity to the business. And that's been important to us. Could have made a bit more money if we expanded a bit more. But we're happy where we are. But expansion comes with risks as well.

34:59I mean, we talk about it quite a lot on this show, or I suppose more and more, is that by scaling, you could have lost the thing that makes it so great. Correct. By becoming available at such a high supply, people would have you know maybe lost the love of it we just had this conversation but it's so true right when you're creating a high value luxury product full stop it's exceptionally hard to get that right what is the quite right amount of supply and demand where there is you know that that level of superiority is an important part of that magic i totally agree i mean i i find it astonishing that you you know there's there's these super luxury brands and they're kind of available in every airport they're everywhere they're everywhere but there seems to be an appetite for it the thing about you know thing what the thing about what we do you know in terms of bespoke tailings you we can only make so many suits uh a year there's there's a there's a finite there's the the level of craftsmanship there's only so many people that can do it and it's getting harder and harder i mean we what what is great about several rows that and and and i think the popularity of kind of tailoring as it has kind of introduced it to a younger generation.

36:15And people, I get a lot more, a lot of people kind of coming out of college. And instead of wanting to be Alexander McQueen, actually quite interested in coming in to Salvo and actually learning how to make things and actually make things from scratch. And that's unique. So that's really helping. But yeah, I think we're kind of limited a little bit by that. You know, we can only make so many, so much. In so many businesses, the aim will just be scale. And so for you, what are the metrics that you look at with your business that are your sort of guiding light? Well, ready to wear is different. You know, ready to wear we can scale up to a point.

36:52We have to keep growing. There's no doubt about it. There always has to be growth. But what is a growth target? Is it 1 % or is it 10 %? It's probably between 5 % and 10%. Right, okay. So it's something meaningful, but nothing crazy because of what we've just discussed. You have international licensing now. We do. Japan. Yeah, we have Japan. We're always looking at, there's always potentially other international. I think the next probably big market for us will be India. I was going to guess that actually. Yeah, yeah. We see a lot of Indian customers coming through the store. I think India will be the next big market for us.

37:29And so the business clearly has a growing demand in that people are almost starting to value it more because it's bespoke. Are you losing much business to Paris, to Milan, to other places? Are you noticing that? In terms of bespoke, probably not, because if you're looking for a several row suit, you have to come to several row and that's it. But in terms of business to Milan, Paris, we are in terms of shopping. We have a problem with, there used to be a VAT. You used to get your VAT back when you shopped here, and that stopped in about, I think, 2020, something like that. I think we're at a huge disadvantage because of that.

38:11It's something that, you know... Can you explain that for someone that wouldn't understand that? Yeah, so as an overseas shopper, you were able to come into the store, buy whatever you wanted, and you'd fill a form out, and you'd get the cost of VAT back. Not quite the 20%, because the company that was handling it would take a couple of percentages as a fee, but you kind of get about 16, 17 % back, which is not insignificant. Certainly those shoppers were buying, I used to work in luxury, and that was a huge thing for the industry. Absolutely. You know, you've got thousands of pounds. Absolutely.

38:45Now, you don't get that. But you do get that in other major capital cities. So I think, you know, London, we see a lot of overseas visitors coming here. They love the hotels, the restaurants, the theatre, all those things. Come here for that. fly off to Paris and do their shopping. Go to Milan to do their shopping. It's a perfect example of a tax incentive sound great to a voting public, but in the cold light reality, they don't work. You get less money from tax. There's a body called Walpole. Yes. I used to do their marketing. And I used to do loads of luxury brand marketing. And I remember when that came in.

39:26And everyone was like, you don't understand. This will carve our shopping. We'll lose massive percents here. absolutely and more because they just won't shop and walpole represents come to london stay and then like you say they go on the euro style do their shopping in paris and come back to london absolutely absolutely i mean and the thing about business like ours is we don't have multi stores we don't have stores in paris and milan and a lot of several doesn't a lot of and that's what's great about business house we are fairly unique it's quite we're small we're unique we're niche but we don't have that representation so it's okay if you're louis vuitton you know you what business you're losing here in London, you're more than making up for in Paris or Milan or wherever.

40:07We don't have that. I do think it's incredibly short-sighted and backward thinking. Do you think that will change? There's a very big lobbying. There's a huge amount of lobbying going on. I think the Waterpore Group are a part of that and I've signed up to it and I don't know if it will. I think it seems to be politically kind of... It's ideological, isn't it? Yeah, it's ideological and not and the optics no one's really everyone's a bit too scared why are we giving rich people um um more breaks you know money back but but actually it benefits the economy it benefits uh yeah the money just won't be spent here it's as simple as that it is as simple as that like if you're going on a shopping spree and you are high net worth international it you know you're either doing your shopping here or you're doing it yeah no you can say you can save yourself a lot of money.

40:56It is that simple. And ironically, this was brought in by a kind of conservative, you know, government. And yeah, it doesn't really make any sense. No, no. It's sort of trying to appease a group of people that aren't even their voter base. Exactly. What costly mistakes do you see luxury brands doing now that you've avoided when you were just spending 10, 15k a year? God, that's a really good question. I don't see many of those luxury brands making too many mistakes anymore i think there's so much thought goes into what what people are doing and you know the only mistake i would say is probably making making yourself too available and too accessible although i guess that's very very carefully monitored by by those brands that's what they do they're they're they're run by very very smart people who kind of gauge and have a feel of what's going on i yeah okay i think one of the mistakes i do see a drive for increasing the margin on on goods so maintaining the retail price but cutting corners on the on the manufacturing i think that is a mistake because the consumer eventually notices and feels feels it and just and once you lose that consumer they don't come back i i've seen i've seen that happen a lot yeah when a consumer realizes that the product quality is not there he's going you lose them forever You don't lose them forever.

42:14You don't get a second chance. I think men, particularly, once they find something they like, they fairly often stick with it. I mean, I still, sometimes I'll go in the store and I'll see people that have been coming for 30 years still coming by. You know, they're comfortable, they're happy. So, you know, you want to nurture those and look after those people. You don't want to be taking advantage, which ultimately is what's happening. I do think as well, like we were discussing before, I think the problem with luxury now is it's become so successful, so available, so commercialized. So many of those big brands were bought and commercialized.

42:52And in many ways, like if you can rock up to any airport or any store or any concession and buy the product, I feel like it just loses a lot of what it was. Yeah, what's that exclusivity? That's what it was. I mean, Heathrow is basically just like, a terminal five is like a luxury shopping center. Yeah, it's a shopping mall. So is everywhere. Yeah, everywhere. It's mind-blowing. Everywhere is, yeah. I think when we first started, the word exclusive kind of had something. It meant something. Yeah, it meant something. And now I just don't... It's everywhere. But somehow it seems to kind of be maintained.

43:29I mean, maybe new markets keep coming on board. I do think that... It sounds silly, but I do think that a lot of the big luxury brands have been sustained by the massive boom in China of luxury consumers. I feel like, you know, which will be India next, right? Which will be India next on other parts of Asia. Yeah. But do you think in all that pursuit of growth, there will come a time where people are like, it's lost its thing? I kind of felt that 20 years ago. It seems to kill. It still seems to keep going. I mean, that's why when I talk about a spokesuit from Salvo Roe, okay it costs between five and six thousand pounds it's a lot of money but it kind of you know that that whole cliche about it lasting forever and it being made for you that is really unique you you can spend that much money on an off-the-peg suit you know from a significant italian brand but you know to have a have a suit that's made for you that you've had some input in that you've kind of had some say in and it's got some of your personality that's that's exclusive that's that's So for a young person, or for any person thinking about a custom suit, they're probably looking at£5 ,000?

44:43For bespoke. For bespoke, for the entry point. No, because we do the made-to-measure, which is slightly different. There's a difference between made-to-measure and bespoke. A made-to-measure is made in a factory, a patent steel created for you. So you have a certain amount of input in terms of style, fabrics, details, but it's not handmade on Savile Row. it's made in the factory. And what's pricing for that? What are you looking? About£1 ,700,£1 ,800 to start with, which I think is pretty good. And I think if you're young, your body's usually in great shape, you know, and it's relatively easy to make a suit look great.

45:16The suit needs to do less work. The suit needs to do less work. Everyone needs to do less work, you know. And I think that's a great starting point. Listen, there's still a lot of money. We're not, you know, I bandy these numbers around as if it's kind of quite, you know, throw away but it's still significant but that's a great that's a great way of starting so you're moving from made to measure through to bespoke you start ready to wear made to measure and then bespoke is the ultimate entry point to bespoke in terms of yeah i think i think it's about five and a half thousand pounds for 15 if depending on the fabrics you yeah basically it just keeps going nylon 15 yeah exactly so you're you're coming in the floor i suppose therefore for bespoke suit is 5 ,000 and then anything over and above that comes down to materials quality design absolutely I think you know there's small details like you know having a white suit say you wanted a white cashmere suit made there's there's a cost involved in that because just the handling of that of that fabric has to be much more careful and every detail so there's there's things like that the psycho gets that he's very confident very much but careful yeah it's hilarious you imagine like how much you'd have to clean that in a city called the gray smoke you'd have to make it with like gloves you basically do yeah have you made one of those we've made white suits for lots of people yeah absolutely no no it's a you know and you know certain things are made i have to be put through a machine you know you have to wipe to take the machine apart before you put anything through that you know it has to be cleaned and you know So yeah, it's a whole different process.

46:56So in this modern world that we're in now, you know, COVID's happened. I think fashion definitely changed. I think that being smart definitely changed a bit. Like, what do you see now as the trend for suits? Like, what do you see the future of suits? I feel like people are becoming smarter again. Yeah, no, you're absolutely right. I think we've definitely noticed a big trend. You know, smart dressing is now a choice. well I think the big difference I mean we were always a business that made suits for people that didn't have to wear suits they chose to you know they worked in creative industries you know architects advertising you know whatever music business they chose to wear suits and that's still the case now we still make suits for people who don't have to wear suits or tailoring I think one of the biggest changes is that wearing a suit for a uniform that's done because you don't have to wear a suit full stop so So, you know, having to go to the office, wear what you like.

47:56So if you are going to wear a tailoring, quite often now it's more jackets and trousers. I'm wearing a suit now. I like wearing a suit every now and then. It feels great. But you don't have to. One of the other biggest changes, I think the comfort factor, the less structure, that's changed quite a bit. And also I think what is great, which really suits us again, is men are a little bit more adventurous in terms of color and texture. You know, they're open to wear. One of our biggest selling suits, you know, listen, grey and navy, always a very popular combination. But I think last winter, our biggest selling suit after that was pink needle cord.

48:42Wow. Yeah, exactly. Now, that would have been very, very niche a few years ago. but you know men were looking to wear looking to wear color you know me was that peacocking exactly i i just think i think they're more you know maybe it's a kind of a younger thing on and and like you said i think the whole covid thing wearing wearing sweatsuits i think i mean i just bought myself a green suit recently yeah green is really popular which is really popular yeah yeah which almost makes me think i need to go for another color right there you go but that's it like on the sort of wedding circuit which my wife and i are coming to the end of now i do feel like all the guys were like trying a bit harder i don't want to wear a a gray suit or a navy suit because i probably wear this to work so what else can i go with and if you're over the summer wedding you're gonna get some guys going with some pretty bright colors yeah bright really cool yeah bright blue lilac linen something like that i've got a dark green suit which i absolutely love i've got now light green yeah yeah summer wedding no green it's interesting green has become a really popular color it really has yeah yeah no i i think that's a i think that's a a big big difference i mean during covid i had lots of so many press requests from people calling i'm saying what what are you what are you going to do now i mean it's got obviously over well how are you going to pivot what are you going to pivot towards and and and we kind of felt that that would change you know as i said when we started up in 1992 just down fridays i've spent my whole time answering questions saying this why are you why are you signing a business now when when the whole movement is completely the opposite and you've grown despite it all we've kept on going and opened and opened bigger stores and and and and become an international presence on the back of of doing telling but you know we our business is to make tailoring appealing and and and people want to buy it so that's so whatever the challenges are you know we've still got to make people desire what we're doing what we produce i was gonna ask just because i was reading this morning that the bond franchise has just been sold do you see a bump in suits when something like bond comes out because he's so yeah yeah he's a real he is yeah it was ironically he was he'd been wearing kind of tom ford i think for uh the last uh few is that right yeah because i used to work for Aston Martin and they did so much of their marketing was in time with Bond and they always said there was a massive bump in sales really really wow and so I think like he might be wearing Tom Ford but he's wearing a suit yeah yeah no I mean in all the books he's wearing several row suits isn't he I mean you know that's traditionally what he was he was wearing before but yeah I guess I mean listen he always looks good we've dressed Daniel Craig in the past as a customer and you know he looks great in suits and, you know, I always think those, sometimes those, those suits, they've been, I think when you see Sean Connery, those suits kind of look fairly classic, you know, they don't look, even though, you know, what, 60s or even, you know, Roger Moore in the 70s, well, Roger Moore looks very, obviously 70s, but, but Sean Connery, there's kind of a classicness about them.

51:51They were made by, they were made on Savile Row. Whereas I think now the, the, the more recent Bonds, the Daniel Craig, they kind of feel very much of the time. and I think they're going to date. They're very fitted. They're very close-fitting. Whereas a Subway suit is going to look fairly... You're not going to say, okay, that's the 2020s or the 2019s. It's probably also because Bond went from being quite well-built but slight man to now Bond in the future. Like all superheroes. Yeah, it's worked out. Everyone's so big. Yeah, exactly. Exactly. What do you learn about the difference between, you know, how a suit and clothes in general make a man feel versus just how they appear?

52:36I think that's a really, I think that makes a big difference. You know, I always get told by people they feel much more in control when they're wearing a really well-cut suit that's been made for them. And I feel like that myself. So I'm fairly sure that's a common reaction. I've been intimidating the hell out of both of us. Yeah, I go. How's your wear? I did actually think I must look like a punk. You do, yeah. At least I made a little bit of effort and sort of top on here. I just think there's a, you know, say you've got a tricky, you know, maitre d' at a restaurant. If you pitch up in a well-cut suit, there's definitely, you're going to be able to command that situation.

53:16Very true. You know, much more. I'm not a particularly smart dressing person and I feel like I do get a lot of hassle in nice places from not dressing smart. So maybe I need to dress smart. It's power dressing for a reason. Yeah, there you go. What's the biggest difference nowadays when you look at what you've accomplished with the business versus what you thought you were going to do with the business? Has it gone as planned? I'm quite amazed I'm still involved in the business after all these years. I do really enjoy it. I do like it. I love the people I work with and I get a lot of pleasure out of it.

53:59And how probably I had no expect, I think my expectations at the time, at the beginning was so short sighted in terms of not, not short sighted, just in terms of let's just get through to next week. I really couldn't see much beyond that or next month. Yeah. Hand to mouth. Just to survive the next month. Call at the bank. Can you please, you know, let this check go through, you know that sort of thing it was it was it was kind of so so kind of i didn't really have a huge vision uh back then and i think either of us did it was just kind of just just survive and and uh you know and i look i look back maybe there's things we could have we could have changed and and the business could be a lot bigger and a lot have a have a much more a much bigger international presence we've done things slightly differently but on the whole i'm kind of happy where we are and and i feel you know really content if you were starting on again with the same 10 000 pound what do you think you do differently i will just wouldn't be possible um but um uh what would i do differently um it's such a different environment i think that i can't i can't i i just think what you have to do now you know we'd have to think about all the social media aspects and we how we make things would we you know would would would people work with us anymore It'd be such a difficult thing now.

55:21I don't envy people that are starting up businesses. I see some of the guys that worked for us in the past and they go off and do their own thing. And it's impressive. And I think, well, good for you. But it's much harder, much harder than it was for us back then in terms of finance. It's an interesting one because I think that business technically now is easier to start than it's ever been before because everything's pre-built, whereas older businesses would have to build everything themselves, do everything themselves, whereas now you sort of start at a higher level. But it does mean that competition is much fiercer.

55:59I think competition is really fierce. Yeah, I think that's got a lot to do with it. I look around and think there's so many people trying to do the same thing. Everything is commercialized for an inch of its life. Yeah, yeah. And you just, there's very little, there's very little room for kind of failure, for having one failure, let alone two. You know, it's, you know, and as I said to you, we had that time, we had that luxury of a bit of time and that word of mouth. It's just impossible now. I just, you know, word of mouth, forget it. You know, you've got to shout really loud. Yeah, and in luxury, yeah, at the end of the day, your brand has built over decades.

56:37Exactly, it's a big difference. Yeah, exactly, exactly. Sean, thank you for coming on Secret Leaders. Thank you very much. Thank you for having me.

From the publisher

Savile Row is one of the most prestigious shopping streets in London, and with just £10,000, Sean Dixon transformed his brand, Richard James, into one of the city's most sought-after tailors.
From designing Sir Alex Ferguson's iconic coat to hosting Elton John and Oasis in his shop at the same time, Sean shares the journey of relentless hard work and dedication it took to break into such an elite market.
He reveals how Richard James became a magnet for A-list celebrities and the pivotal moments that helped shape the company's success in the world of luxury fashion.

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