Beauty Begins With Biology Not Buzzwords ft. Joanna Czech

0:00Hey guys, welcome back to Skin Anarchy. Today I am thrilled to welcome a legendary guest who is a world renowned esthetician. She has over 39 years of experience and she has transformed the skin of Hollywood's elite from clients like Jennifer Aniston to Kim Kardashian. Joanna Cech is truly a visionary in this realm. And so I'm very, very excited to welcome her today. Hi, Joanna. Thank you so much for coming on the show. I'm so excited to chat. Thank you so much for having me. I'm a fan likewise and I'm quite honored, Agda, to be here with you today. So, I mean, I can, you know, we appreciate each other.

0:37That's already a great start. No, thank you so much. That means the world. Joanna, you have such an amazing career and everything you've accomplished so far. And I mean, you've seen everything when it comes to skin. I want to pick your brain and understand because I think all of us want to try to understand the skin better in terms of what actually makes us look better. You know, that's the bottom line. And I feel like with all of the noise in the industry, it's so hard to figure that out. You know, so I'm really excited about diving into that. But I would love to talk about your background and learn more about you, because it's so fascinating how you've, you know, you've come from like a really, you know, humble beginnings.

1:15Right. And you've turned something into something huge. So can we talk a little bit about your background, if you can walk us down memory lane? Absolutely. So I'm an esthetician. This year cuts to 40 years of me being an esthetician. That's when I started playing that job. I still keep talking about it as playing. I come from Poland. That's where I got all my education with extended program of biology. And then 13 ,000 hours of being in a beauty institute versus 600. So it's a quite serious approach to it in Poland. So by all main education, that's where I brought it from. And that's where I learned all my basics.

1:55And that's what I keep actually implementing for the last 40 years in everything that I do regarding aesthetics. Aesthetics is kind of, I'm not sure if it's the right word in my situation, because I really mainly talk about skin's health. From skin's health, that's where we get everywhere. And so anyhow, I was a young athlete, so I was always a very disciplined person, always had interest in human's body and understanding what to do the best to perform the best. I was 5K runner and I was the second shortest basketball player. Now in my 60s, I'm already 5 '3". I probably was the highest ever 5 '4".

2:41And I became an esthetician not ever planning like the rest of my life, never having major plan. I only became an esthetician because I did not pass physics to medical school. I actually had a little dream that I had. It was being a doctor. And that's kind of also coming from background in Poland, being born in a family, parents that survived the Second World War. My brother was destined to be a lawyer and I was destined to be a doctor. I became an aesthetician and he became a chef and he was for the longest time with San Francisco Giants so we did okay you know we were both in the United States and my beginnings are simple beginnings as you said I came here as a 25 years old girl that's how I can talk about her now 36 years later because that's how long I've been in the United States with four years of aesthetics in Poland before that without ever planning to come to the United States.

3:41But I am that kind of story of an immigrant, right? I don't know where to go from there, but maybe that noticeable moment of my career here, I will jump straight back from Poland to the United States. It started in 1995. That was about six years after I arrived to the United States when I got a job, Paula Breck Salon and Spa on the Upper West Side in Manhattan. That was a Reebok sports club. Very, very popular. Very, I mean, the coolest spot in the city then. Yeah, it was the happening area. Yeah, it was happening. Yeah. Yes. And I was actually a member. I was a member of that club. And my coach says, Joanna, you should just go and get a job in a spa downstairs.

4:28I did not even realize that it was a spa downstairs. That's how interested I was in it. I was having already the way how my life went. I had my private clients. I was not looking for a job and I end up going there. They don't have really openings for estheticians, but they say they are looking for manicurists. I, within my 13 ,000 hours, I was taught how to do medical pedicures. I was taught how to do water body treatments. And that was a lot. That was the whole very holistic approach to taking care of yourself, not just patting the skin and changing creams. That's actually what made my decision as a 21 years old when I started taking tutoring in physics.

5:16I'm going back to Poland to apply again for medical school because physics, that's what I did not pass. That was the worst subject, actually. I know what you mean. I was good in physics. I was not bad, but that was not my day. I missed nine points out of 50. I missed nine points, which was not bad. But when there were 14 people per seat, that was enough to fail. And anyhow, I got fascinated by a nail plate, you know, that I can analyze someone's nail plate. and read what's happening with their digestive system, with their cardiovascular system, if they are smokers, if they are drinkers. And after that, three months of studying on the nail plate in Beauty Institute, I was like, I am a doctor.

5:59You know, you're brilliant when you are 21. Not at all. That's what we think. And without confirming with my parents, I kind of quit my physics and proceeded with the Beauty Institute, but now going again, jumping to 1995. that's how I accepted that two days job offer from Paula Breck to be a manicurist and I became quite recognizable manicurist very quickly because within the first six weeks I had my two years booking for manicure and that was I enjoyed doing pedicures manicures I loved doing brows that was my actually kind of desertation that I wrote at the end of beauty institute was a framing of your eyes so there are many things that people not necessarily know about my background i i like looking at it all but but at the end the healthy skin because it is about two square meters when we flatten it average size of a skin of a human and three kilo weight right it is in fact the largest organ so healthy skin that was always the most and it is remains the most important subject of mine and then from then on my career kind of I don't know being at the right place at the right time because I believe that there are many phenomenal technicians and experts but not everybody gets a chance to be in a place that they get proper recognition I don't know how yeah no it's a it's a hard industry this is a it's a very like kind of a cutthroat industry there's so many people and but I mean at the at the same time though like I think what really fascinates me about about this is like I mean people like yourself you you love what you do you know it shows in your work because you wouldn't be so successful if it wasn't that you know and that's where I'm so fascinated by your knowledge because we hear so much from like dermatologists and it's wonderful you know I love learning from everybody you know in the the skin health space but I think when it comes to aesthetics and like really working with the skin that's when you start to understand like what is it that makes the skin glow what is it that makes you truly healthy you know and like not just like for that day when you get the facial but like afterwards you know what keeps your the overall skin health going and that's that's my biggest curiosity is like when did you realize that you know the skin was much more than just okay you know you do a couple of things here and there it was like when did you have that moment where you realized i i want to understand the skin you know uh that from the day number one when i was always interested in a human's body that uh i mean we know that our digestive system that's 65 to 70 percent of our immune system so really it starts with whatever you put into your body that's where it all begins we know that that our emotions are connected to it our brain is connected the way how we look and feel and then how we look and feel sometimes then affects our brain goes the other way around right then how much rest do we get how much water do we drink and when do we drink that water i always give example of you know like in united states there is very traditional think tons of water and especially ice cold water and you take one sip and there are three waiters you know filling up your glasses and it's really not the right thing it's for the healthiest god and that's where it all begins for for everything for skin for brain for it all for our joints for the whole body you should stop drinking big amounts of water about half an hour before your meal and you should start drinking about 45 minutes after because otherwise you keep rinsing through all the potential nutrients that you can gather from your meal and And that's what's very important, this proper intuitive meal.

9:52Your body almost will tell you what it wants. Don't listen when your body is screaming Lady M cake. That's what my body very often screams, but that's a lot of sugar. But really choosing proper meals and when and how you eat it and how you support it with the water, that's another story. You should have half a glass of water, maybe just not to choke on your meal, but not keep. I don't love that very often I hear from nutritionists, I'll drink a lot of water, tons of water during dinner, before dinner, so you will not have your appetite. That's kind of a weight loss program. I personally don't appreciate it.

10:30Yes, they are out of doing it. I think there's a lot of misinformation out there, especially about nutrition now, because you know how it is. People are just like, I think people are finally waking up and realizing, wait a minute, oh, this is an organ? I have to take care of it. you know like i have to do something so then they're overdoing it you know what i mean like they're going they're overcompensating and i think that's the very intriguing part is that you know the skin is you know as much as we know that it's the largest organ as much as we know that you know we everything we do it needs to be rooted in science i think there's still so much like all these trends you know like i'm sure you've seen it like the beef tallow trend i mean that drives me crazy i mean what are your thoughts on on these trends so all the trends from collagen powder that yeah that's going to stimulate your collagen i have not heard about collagen stimulating collagen i have not i don't know how it works yeah then beef tallow but then in the meantime so beef tallow was used during the war in poland that's from the stories of my parents because otherwise they would freeze their faces and bodies off that's only what they had when they didn't have food and but when completely vegan and vegetarian person is screaming about beef tallow with honey i really don't understand but i don't understand people screaming within last few years about exosomes we are still really analyzing it if how do they work and how do they really work and when they are extracted from original body we already know and i don't know why people are still selling um stem cell serums or stem cell screens there is no way that stem cell can be alive after extracted from the original body maybe re-injected right away you know as those plasma facials at the doctor's offices through microneedling maybe a few thousands of the cells will survive proper environment.

12:35Exosomes are quite novelty. Exosomes are produced also by stem cells, right? We don't know yet. They are only messengers. But in the cream, I'm really not sure yet. I'm not jumping into it. So who I am in this business for the last years i don't believe ecta in trance i believe in science i believe in practicality i will i believe in common sense and i believe in starting again with the i don't believe just in the area that i consider completely vanity nipples up that's your face that's what i always say because i don't believe in separate neck and decote creams that's why we we do nipples up but really that's That's our, as I mentioned, that's our vanity.

13:23That's what I think. And really, we almost like we invest in face, but we put some, I don't know, whatever oil on our body, right? Yeah, we don't do anything for the body, like literally nothing. Every next product is going to be body. And that's my dream because I want to have proper ingredients. That's the largest part of that skin, the body more than the nipples up face. And one of many responsibilities of the skin is also absorbing things, right? So that's how we very often apply medicinal patches on the arm, abdominal or butt area and skin absorbs. That's, you know, people did numbing creams and they never got up after that because they got completely paralyzed, right?

14:13So we don't, we don't, oh, this is a little estrogen cream that I'm, but right, estrogen cream we are applying on our belly. So that means the skin absorbs it. It does penetrate through the skin. So it's super important what we apply on our body. Invest. You think you should invest. But if they are smartly chosen products, they don't need to be super expensive, right? As long as they are whatever that means clean. I'm not sure if I love that word in the industry because there is still not completely explained to me. I also love that situation. I'm jumping a little bit all over, but that's how I want to debunk all those myths and trends.

14:52Client comes to the studio and it's completely paralyzed by Botox. It's all good, whatever. Everybody makes own choice, but I have no idea if the person is hysterically crying or smiling or is surprised. You can't tell. Yeah, no expression. And that's OK. That's a woman's choice. But this is the person who is asking me if my products are clean. So my response was, you know, I just dusted them off. Yeah, that literally what I said, because why do you worry they're clean if you have paralyzer, you know, in your face, in your body? So, well, that's the whole thing. It's like this industry has become this like, I don't know.

15:31I mean, I love skin care, just like the other person. I love, you know, beauty, everything about it. But at the same time, there's so many contradictions. You know, there's so many people walking around screaming from the top of their lungs, like clean beauty is everything. it's like what the hell is clean beauty you know like what does that mean yeah i have science is not clean like that's what i don't understand it's like what are you talking about like science does if you want real efficacious products you're gonna have to accept that we have to do some scientific you know stuff on this like we have to run it through trials we have to you know experiment a little bit i mean you can't get that just out of nowhere so i agree i think it's crazy yes when you take olive oil i mean yes it might be all great but it has no right to penetrate to your skin molecules are not right and yeah famous person applied body you know olive oil for three months on the body if ordinary person will do it they're going to be so dehydrated from it because oil is going to destroy lipidic layer on your skin after three months you're going to be so dehydrated it will with nothing it's i don't know maybe some initial comfort but they are no humectants in that product to create even comfortable hydration you know so as i say stem cells exosomes just random products on the body without paying attention all that salmon beef tala for vegans and vegetarians that's very inconsistent you know inconsistent it maybe creates protection i may not kill you it didn't kill my parents they survived you know they were for six years without homes.

17:10So, but also the environment. I mean, that's another thing that really, I would love to get your insight on this because this is, people talk about, for example, you know, everyone's talking about celebrities all the time and you've worked with countless celebrities, you know, you've worked with, right? So, I mean, people always say this, that, oh, well, so-and-so has great skin because they can afford to go get like ridiculous amounts of, you know, like procedures done or whatever. But at the end of the day, like, what is it really about celebrity skin versus a normal consumer that's different?

17:44No difference. There is no difference. They are the same humans. They have the same skin. Very often due to their profession, because they need to have makeup five times a day, adjusted and so on. Makeup is quite destructive for skin, especially when it's not properly. I did studies on that, especially on the powders on the skin. But we did studies on it. And so anyhow, so I just recommend removing it properly. Celebrities, everybody has the same need. Plastic procedures, they don't create glowing skin. They remove extra skin. There is no such a thing like lifting cream. There is no such a thing.

18:25Lifting, they are procedures. If you are that person who will analyze or overanalyze themselves in the mirror five times a day, you probably are leaning towards the moment that one day you will go for your plastic surgery but creams can create comfort and i put on the same regimen on comparable regimen because i believe in four to five steps i don't believe in 17 steps in a skincare it's completely over loaded with with 60 000 skincare lines born per year which is absolutely unbelievable 94 % of them they are white label. So these people are buying completely the same products and just under different name.

19:10So to me, it's my goal is to educate people about what I think is the most important. And the most important, in my opinion, is a night care. That's the little thing that skincare can do because it really, if everybody would do everything wrong all day long and they only would concentrate on their face that they still would not change the cream cream on its own would not help if somebody is not leading a proper this you know like i would say 70 to 80 healthy lifestyle right right doesn't matter i'm an esthetician i can support i can create hydration i can create a little glow i can create i can change even the temporarily the shape of the phase by muscle manipulation by fascia manipulation but this is not that kind of one minute red carpet facial this takes time this takes appointments this takes program this takes planning it's not just it's i always try to say and always use tons of analogies when you want to be in a great shape you don't work out once every three months or once a month right yeah yeah exactly if you want to feel better if you want to feel less bloated or you want to lose weight.

20:30And let's face it, I know probably two women in my life that they want to gain weight. So this is not also eating one day a month properly. It's just being consistent, being disciplined and making the right decisions and looking for someone who will educate them. I want to call, you know, like my little studios, I have three of them, New York, Dallas, and Los Angeles. I almost want to call them a little universities because for me, one of the most important things in a skincare world is educating people but not selling nonsense. And at least what I believe in, it's trends in the skincare. Trends in fashion are phenomenal.

21:17Trends in makeup, yes. Trends in haircuts, even if you look crazy, you can put a wig on, you know, make and wash off pants. If they make you look horrible, you will take them off. If you're gonna go with the trend, because everybody is rushing for monthly lasers, all of a sudden, or some peels and whatever, it just does not necessarily, you may not help yourself at all, but you may deal with some consequences of wrong decisions. Right? No, I agree. I think that's a very powerful statement. And I think that, you know, a lot of times what happens is people and this is why I asked you about celebrities people will see celebrities on TikTok or Instagram wherever right and they see the skin and they see a filter or they see something and they're like oh well I have to have that skin and I really believe truly like you know as just a general consumer watching when I see people who are obsessed with glass skin or they're obsessed with that really hydrated look or they just are obsessed with how many how many products and I pile on and get that artificial glass look.

22:20Well, that's, I hate to break it to you guys, but that's not glass look, you know? That's literally just products piled on top and that's going to go away as soon as you wash them away. So, yeah. Creates a healthy skin from within. That's what all begins. That's what, yes. Yeah, no, I would love to talk about, you know, just in terms of like, because you brought this up earlier. I mean, there are so many different procedures we can do in the space of like, you know, when you go and see an esthetician, there's different procedures you can get done there's facials there's what is what is something that you would recommend to somebody maybe in their 30s you know if they're very new to this and they want to start being more proactive about their their routine i would start with the proper self-care right and then seeing occasionally however often if they are if they have proper self-care if they really already but i would go first for consultation with an expert i do very often I do them on FaceTime and that's when I create after a one-hour conversation there even without touching the skin but asking questions about their lifestyle about what they do what is their profession you know because I need to create very realistic team for them because I know if they are spending a lot of time outdoors I'd be prescribing different things if they are 10 hours a day in the office I would be suggesting different things especially for the daytime Nighttime might be comparable.

23:46But so I would start with consultation with the therapies that they trust. Then start proper skincare routine. And then once a month or maybe once a season have, depending what's their goal and what they want to achieve, having a professional facial. So regarding skincare at night, that's going to be with some adjustments for nearly every age. I, of course, proper cleansing. And that's I will mention here my Czechisms. I call them my Czechisms, you know. Oh, yes. Yeah. So first of all, I already said, don't do what your girlfriend does. Right. Because we we are such individuals. We have different health conditions.

24:28We have different needs. We have different skin conditions. We have different lifestyles and we will react differently. So that's one thing. So then don't bring the streets to the sheets. That means taking care of your body and face at night, rinsing your day off. Exactly. We turn into those little babies. We bait them at night. We put all the body oils or lotions, then we feed them. Then we read one page of a book and they are peacefully asleep. We need the same ritual. So nighttime, proper, adequate cleanser for your skin, suggested, depending, because there are going to be so many skin conditions.

25:05At cleansers, you can have so many different. I strongly believe that people don't talk about it a lot, and many people don't agree with me, but actually many also do, even scientists, that pH of the skin is super important. Because if pH is off, that's going to be one of the reasons for then many inflammatory situations, because then lipidic layer will be off, then we will start experiencing trans-epidermal water loss and then itching and redness and flare-ups. And that's already all forms of inflammation. So proper pH of the skin created, we need to have it slightly acidic, 5.5.9. And after washing the face, you know, it could get a little diluted.

25:45So I love applying slightly acidic toner. I very often recommend that. Not necessarily exfoliating toner on daily basis, but just slightly acidic. I can run 5 or 5.5. My toner happens to be 5.5. Then for the nighttime, I recommend Vimna A. My very favorite form is retinol, Y-L. That's the form that kind of belongs on the surface of the skin because retinoic acid is already that form, as you know, that that's what speeds up that cellular turnover, but has ability to convert into retinol, retinol, and then retinoic acid and then after speeding up cellar turnover converts back into retinol and we have access by a within our skin we get by a from our fruit and vegetable fat efficient meat so by night at night and then comforting moisturizer for 30 years old person depending what it is if the skin feels dehydrated i would put even something balmy because skin could be oily but dehydrated for instance so the oily that's conditioned dehydrated no oily that's a type dehydrated is conditioned so interesting yes we have many skin conditions and that's when we go to kind of epigenetics more than genetics we we genetically get skin type but then we kind of almost create our skin condition by the lifestyle so that's when we observe epigenetics of the of everything but i'm talking about skin here that would be your nighttime routine as you noticed i did not talk about eye cream i did not talk about yeah neck and every product that i name and recommend they are actually good to apply to be applied obviously on neck and the counter or the eye area if somebody is really psychologically an eye cream person then i recommend eye cream so that would be your step right before your final moisturizer so then from four steps you go to your five steps and in the morning similar situation removing residue of your nighttime routine using your ph controlling toner then i love recommending my own vimnas c which is tetra hexadecine ascorbate in my opinion and my chemist's opinion the most stable form of vimnas c uh at the moment within my 30 and a half years of existence of my tiny little line very few products nobody yet had reaction within 40 years experience many reactions to vimnese but we don't know again that was misunderstanding completely you know opening little jars and you see orange rim or yellow rim this is already free radical that's not your antioxidant that your vimnese already got oxidized and tetrahexodesil does not get oxidized very easily it's because being so stable so has a chance to penetrate deep enough where we stimulate synthesis of elastin and collagen and also inhibits hyperpigmentation that's great again for anyone 30 or above or below and then comforting moisturizer for me being 61 my comforting moisturizer is going to be always the bomb because i have zero estrogen in my system but for 30 years old depending that might be a lighter cream and then spf depending on their lifestyle if they are spending 10 hours in the office i know people will hate me for that but i would not apply spf and you know and my dermatologist who happens to be a professor of their of dermatology thank goodness he preaches the same if they are outdoorsy people or they will spend an hour you know walking to work or whatever then yes for sure SPF otherwise I personally if I am six minutes in the car going to work or if I am at 8 a.m walking on the streets of New York to work and I'm seven minutes outdoors at 8 8 30 a.m I actually don't have my SPF and then I leave at 7 p.m so it's interesting that you brought up spf because i think the world is so obsessed with it right now you know like they're and it's wonderful because i know that people suffer from skin cancer every day you know it's a very real thing you know i understand that but i also know that vitamin d is a real thing you know yes did you did you read the study that against one melanoma there are eight heart diseases now you know last 25 years when we started using spf 100 and spf 100 umbrellas and spf 100 clothing then people stop people are depressed and nitric oxide does not get stimulated and that's what vaimna d stimulates right and nitric oxide you know it's a it's our natural ingredient of a blood that is responsible for hydration of our veins capillaries arteries and if those become brittle that's when the heart diseases come so it's like we tend to jump to extremes we we just we are unbalanced exactly no we're very unbalanced and i think that's where you know and this is why i find it to be so fascinating to talk to someone like you because you have you've seen it you know and i think that for anyone who's out there and you don't understand skincare and you don't understand like what should you be doing i mean the last thing you should do is be piling on like excessively spf all day every day i mean i'm not saying don't protect your skin but like this absolutely this is yeah and the very first step is really to have physical protection i mean step you know if you can manipulate or you can control the time spent outdoors when it's very hot that's the very first step then you have your physical protection So wear your hat, right?

31:38And then you apply your SPF. That's your only third step. Because as you know, there is such a thing like heat-induced hyperpigmentation. So it does not matter if you have SPF 100 and you are laying for nine hours. You're going to be all pale. But if you have tendencies to hyperpigmentation, it's going to resurface after summertime. Right, right, exactly. No, I agree. I think it's just a crazy world we're living in right now. you know people are communicating because whatever happened with the machine of beauty or aesthetics just everybody's producing something and i'm not sure what is the reason for it because in money money that's the only reason you like there's very right i guess because they are like i'm i was nervous with coming up with five products of mine but i said that if nothing else talking about pH of the skin, about two basic creams, very light and very thick, for winter time to prevent maybe broken capillaries for the skiers, skaters and whatever, because that's kind of what I, those very basics.

32:41And then anti-redness soothing and then proper form of amnesia. That was like my goal and I thought I snuck in into something that was not maybe talked enough about it i think you know where we gather our ingredients from you know the banks of ingredients and so on how they being cultivated and and all those things make difference in their efficacy so i when i was creating my product my my chemist said joanna you have been building handmade rolls-royce i said listen that's perfect for my age rolls-royce work um because literally they were my choices but you know it's a example i always give example of colostrum yeah we jumped recently to colostrum right yeah everyone's making one now like it's a yeah everyone's making this as a brand one thing that i'm not against but our cows in united states are very skinny they feel like being skinny here so i think colostrum in united states It is about 1.7 international units because that's how we measure efficacy of colostrum.

33:51As we kind of measure efficacy and strength of Vimna D, people talk about grams, milligrams, and that's not always, that's not always apply. Including Vimna A, by the way, people talk about percentage. And that's, I don't think if that's the right way to refer to it. but the strongest efficacy of colostrum is from san miguel from azores islands it's an island in azores islands in portugal and it's 4.7 international units yes yeah that makes sense i mean at the end of the day like it all comes down to like what are the most nutritious sources you know for our overall health and i think a lot of times like you brought up you know since we're talking about like immunity i think this is a good place to talk about like inflammation right now i see a lot of this you know and i recently i published a review on it just recently about the inflammasome and like you know what it really actually means because right everybody right now is saying my my skin is inflamed i have retinas i have all these different things popping up you know my acne is inflammatory acne which doesn't make sense every acne is inflammatory acne just fyi you know like it's it's just to become a buzzword you know that's my point it's become this big buzzword that everything is inflammation so what are your thoughts on that you know my favorite thing is oh my god you have dermatitis yeah everybody has dermatitis dermatitis and how many hundreds of forms of dermatitis do we have i don't know if you can count in hundreds even any change in right is dermatitis yeah everyone has dermatitis um what are your thoughts on that i mean what do you think about this stuff because I think like this is a big question right because science you and I we understand you know science is there are certain things that are proven in science but there are also a lot of things that are being harmful because you're using the people are using scientific words to describe products that are simply not doing that you know it's misunderstood they don't probably even understand the words that they are using in my opinion and that's where they shouldn't be talking this way i whenever i ask anyone about about what means anti-inflammatory what does it mean like where do we start i would always go first to diet to to heal your gut that's where i would go yeah no why that's my understanding of it because that's really a huge that that's the most important i think our system that's where we have our immune system but inflammation it could be through diet inflammation could be by killing our skin superficially or inflammation could be created by strange ingredients whatever they are piling up i don't know maybe that's beef talon or sperm yeah whatever it is they're putting i mean honestly here's my biggest thing to joanna and i and I'm just saying this because I feel like you'll understand what I mean I'm not against all these like you know I'm I'm all about okay do your research find things that work you know that's fine we all do this but then talk to us about it yeah yeah like talk to somebody who knows what they're doing at the end of the you know like if you're gonna use something like it's all you know the salmon sperm thing is like that pdrn stuff pdrn has efficacy in literature as it's report it but can i say that the products on the market right now that are pdr and products if they're efficacious no i don't think so i think yeah i have no right of performance not to mention they're coming from they're coming from the east right so let's talk about that i mean the east doesn't regulate anything by the way you know the like in korea most of the time the things the products that are made they're not even disclosing the ingredients on those products Nothing.

37:47And we just buy it and don't even understand. We don't even care. Exactly. We're like, oh, it's from Korea. Done. We're doing we're using this. You know, it's like it's so crazy to me because I I really feel like consumers have hit this like wall where they're like, I'll buy anything. Just make sure it works. And it's like we can't do that. But at the same time, U.S.-based products, we start scrutinizing. And, you know, again, that clean conversation comes up like, you know, it's like if we really want to have efficacious products, We need to do it in a system that allows for safety and efficacy at the same time.

38:20And if we don't really want that, then we can drop the conversation altogether. You know, I love that. I love that. Let's not talk about it. Because, yes, I mean, for me, when I to me, when I can control and I kind of like control, I mean, like, you know, controlling my decisions to to to a certain extent. But if I can control what I put into my body or I put into the bottle and I see exactly how those things mix, how do they react or not react together, if they are even mixable together and they start making sense, that's what can bring potential efficacy. But if I just mix, you know, I don't know, whipped cream with something.

39:07Yeah. Beef tallow. and add some talon sprinkle with collagen and i and put on your face what is going to happen you know just exactly no i agree i completely agree and i think that there's so much i mean i could talk to you for hours about this because there's so many myths and there's so much garbage out here in terms of information and people are really every day i see a new some somebody posts something about how they broke out in terrible acne or it's like something terrible happened to them in response and these adverse reactions are all over the place but we're still not we're not pushing the brakes you know as a culture as a society we're not saying guys it's time to stop okay and it's time to talk for a minute and go to the experts you know go to the experts like lady and the expert yeah like i mean at the end of the day it's not and there's no harm in saying i don't know that's my biggest problem i think joanna is with people that say okay i'm gonna go find my own solutions okay go find your own solution but if you don't know then just say i don't know what the scientific word means or i don't know what this concept is and then consult somebody that does like whether that's a dermatologist whether it's you know you're back back back in poland we collaborated directly with dermatologists like literally i would take biopsy i was allowed to do it from any acne changes and we would send to laboratories and then dermatologist and i decided is deep pore cleansing and certain treatments will be enough or we do need to incorporate in this situation already antibiotic we really were working together and or is it gut health like we are literally what's your diet what do you do and that's where would start and then we would check hormones level and i would read blood tests and and and then we would decide how we're gonna approach that acne because exactly as you said there are five billion different acnes it's acnes are for different reasons there so what what i think that i want to say i have my check ism so i started with them don't bring the streets to the sheets start with your nighttime routine what you're doing the more like if you prepare your skin for relaxation and rejuvenation time and i'm talking about from the toes to the nose the whole body that you will be much stronger to face that day because you already will have proper ingredients as much as as they will penetrate let you know this is not again not miracles here but being consistent that helps tremendously then don't do what your girlfriend does then your face starts at the nipples and ants in a hairline.

41:52That difference between neck and décolleté, that lipidic layer is reduced 30 to 40 percent in comparison to our face because we have simply less soubicius glands and the jawline creates a most perfect borderline. But if I would have a miracle cream that would change my neck or décolleté, I would put all over my face. Why not? If it would be such a phenomenon. It's a motion of application or simply applying anything that can help create hydration and and that more comforting feeling. Then another thing is be disciplined and as I said, discipline and consistency and then not over-treating your skin.

42:33It's unnecessary, but kind of acetylated hyaluronic acid with different lengths of other chains and different sizes of the molecules as an ingredient. That's very important. Ceramides, obviously, essential for maintaining, you know, that healthy skin barrier. That's the thing, though, Joanna, is like, you know, we talked about this, like you're you're rooting your practice in science, you're rooting your practice and experience. There are many, many people here that don't understand that if you want to become successful in anything, you have to understand what your actual where your knowledge comes from.

43:07You know what I mean? Like, I feel like that's across the board. even in medicine I see this all the time where you know doctors don't want to get the extra training and it makes you wonder it's like if you don't invest in yourself and your knowledge and your understanding of whatever you're working with you will never become the expert you know you'll never become that guiding light for other people so I think yeah that's why people copy you because you know what you're doing I love I I would be really successful in my life if they would pay me for my education you know that if i could be paid for my for for educating myself because i am ready to educate others because uh it's another set thing and it's too bad you know in united states that they are states already that they don't require school at all you can sign and become an esthetician how scary is that that's very scary that's really that's yeah so So, you know how I teach clients?

44:04That's where I feel like whatever years I have left, whatever minutes I have left, I want to teach clients as much as I can. And I want to teach other estheticians. The way how I work in my studios, wherever I go, there is always esthetician assisting me. We both make, I have like nurse practitioner next to me. We have files of every client. We have what we've done, what we talked about. If they were feeling okay that day, because I did not understand why I had to study psychology for six years in my life until I saw the first client. How important is to understand even where to start conversation to make them feel better because sometimes after conversation they will look better without even doing any phenomenal things on the skin, which I love massaging because I think that makes very often instant, even though temporary but instant difference.

44:59that's something that I definitely believe in that you know that many massage techniques that are so phenomenal which again 36 years ago they were yelling at me here in the United States that I was stretching the skin I said you know why is it called massage because I'm massaging muscles you know that's what it is and yeah my first instructor said treat the skin like a sponge and the muscles like a dough and that was phenomenal very simple you know advice yeah I love that. That's really, I think that's brilliant because, you know, we don't really talk about that at all. It's, I think with, there's like a really strong divide between when people start talking about muscles or fascia or anything like that, everybody starts going towards surgery.

45:44And it's like, no guys, you don't always have to go down that road. You know, it's like, you can still talk about these things and, and have it make sense because the skin is just like you know the top covering of everything so yes so you have to understand that you're working with the full system you're not just working with you know the covering and so I think it's fascinating I mean at the end of the day a lot more education is needed I completely understand what you mean where you know I wish there was a system in place that allowed for people who want to go into aesthetics to have the systematic way of learning because that's what makes great providers at the end of the day and you know you see it even in in medical fields where the training is kind of shoddy you know it's not always consistent and that's why some people you know they're great and some people just don't know what they're doing because there's no consistent way to educate so i would love to see that actually if we can you know i would be so phenomenal to create some like postgraduate program right just yeah licensed estheticians if they could come and spend some time with me.

46:50Even dermatologists, I feel like, should get that. You know what I mean? Like, if you're going into dermatologist residency and you want to really understand the skin, you should train at something. Like, do a certification. You know, it'll teach you more. And I'll tell you, it's important paying attention to the skin through your lifestyle, through taking care of it, through making right decisions. skin can save your life i mean it's saving your life on daily basis because it's protecting you it's regulating your temperature it's purifying right because we sweat absorbs things that needs to absorb and sometimes that doesn't need to absorb but if your skin is a mess on daily basis it's itchy it's patchy it's dehydrated you have brown spots does not matter on the skin tone it's all gray you will not notice that something is happening within your system if you if your skin looks healthy if it's going to be healthy automatically it's going to be proper tone for your ethnicity or whatever it's going to be proper elasticity and so on and then if something is wrong maybe color is changing maybe all of a sudden in your inner arms you have some rash that means you are most likely having allergic reaction to something if you are patchy and scratchy all the time you will not pay attention to a change and your skin could be a very significant organ to tell you that something is going on within so it's worth it even just for for that reason i agree i completely agree i think that's that we need to have more deep dives into really understanding like what the body is trying to tell you i i think that's that's very true what you said the skin does reflect everything that's going on and you know i've written some some posts about this myself because it's very intriguing you know when you have something wrong with your liver or something's wrong with your digestion it will reflect on your skin i mean you're gonna be flaring up you're gonna that's gonna be and that can save your life no it's been it's been so wonderful to chat with you and i i love that you know you have such a holistic understanding of of you know the human body when you approach your clients because i think we need to really learn from that and to just you know as you know closing thoughts i would love to get your advice for any anyone out there who wants to go into aesthetics who wants to become an esthetician what is your your advice for them when they're approaching their education first try to find the best school you can i don't know what to recommend in united states but kristin valmy that's what i took to to get my license in united states apparently avida schools are not bad then study as much as you can physiology, anatomy, pathology of the skin.