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Podcast Notes: The School of Greatness - Alex Honnold: THIS Is The MINDSET That Allowed Me To Achieve What NO ONE Ever Has (+ What’s NEXT!)
Episode Overview In this episode of *The School of Greatness*, host Lewis Howes interviews Alex Honnold, the renowned free solo climber famous for his unprecedented ascent of El Capitan without ropes. They discuss Honnold's mindset, family life, and his new show *Arctic Ascent* on Nat Geo. The episode sheds light on the psychological aspects of climbing, the importance of mentorship, and the minimalist lifestyle Honnold has chosen.
Key Themes and Takeaways
- The Mindset of a Climber
- Mental Preparation: Honnold emphasizes the importance of mental preparation in high-stress situations, particularly in climbing where fear must be navigated effectively.
- Visualization: Visualization and goal-setting play crucial roles in preparing for climbs, especially those deemed impossible.
- Fear and Risk Management
- Navigating Fear: Honnold discusses how he experiences fear just like everyone else but manages it through experience and practice.
- Assessment of Risks: The necessity of evaluating whether fears are rational is vital not only in climbing but in life.
- The Role of Community and Mentorship
- Support Systems: Honnold highlights the impact of having mentors and a supportive community in achieving goals.
- Shared Experience: Climbing with other skilled climbers allows for shared decision-making and emotional support, making the experience less daunting.
- Living a Minimalist Lifestyle
- Simplicity: Honnold advocates for a minimalist lifestyle, focusing on what truly matters and letting go of unnecessary possessions.
- Intentional Living: Living in a van for many years taught him the value of experiences over material things.
- The Intersection of Adventure and Purpose
- Environmental Awareness: Honnold’s trips often include elements of environmental science, emphasizing the importance of the Greenland ice sheet in climate change discussions.
- Foundation Work: His foundation supports solar projects, reflecting a commitment to using his platform for positive change.
Insights on Family and Relationships
- Balancing Personal Goals with Family Life: Honnold acknowledges the challenges of being a professional climber and a family man, noting that the arrival of children requires a reevaluation of priorities.
- Evolving Relationships: The importance of nurturing relationships while pursuing passions is emphasized, showing that both are not mutually exclusive.
The Future
- Plans Ahead: Honnold shares thoughts on his future goals, expressing a desire to continue climbing but also to ensure that his daughters see him working towards meaningful objectives.
Alex Honnold's Three Truths
- Go Big: Embrace challenges and pursue your passions wholeheartedly.
- You Are Loved: Instill a sense of love and affirmation in your relationships, particularly with family.
- Simplicity: Live simply and focus on what truly matters in life.
Conclusion The episode provides profound insights into the mind of one of the world’s greatest climbers, highlighting the significance of mental strength, community, and living intentionally. Alex Honnold's journey is a testament to the idea that achieving greatness involves overcoming fears, maintaining supportive relationships, and pursuing passions with purpose.
Additional Resources
- *Arctic Ascent* on Nat Geo, launching February 4, 2024
- Honnold Foundation: [honnoldfoundation.org](http://honnoldfoundation.org)
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Make sure to check out the episode for a deeper understanding of Alex Honnold’s philosophy and experiences!
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Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:07Welcome to the School of Greatness. Greatness. My name is Lewis Howes, a former pro athlete turned lifestyle entrepreneur. And each week we bring you an inspiring person or message to help you discover how to unlock your inner greatness. Thanks for spending some time with me today. Now let the class begin.
0:31Welcome back, everyone at School of Greatness. We have the inspiring Alex Honnold in the house. Good to see you, sir. Welcome to the show. I have to read this really quick so people can understand how inspiring of an athlete and human being you are. More people will walk on the moon than will do what Alex Honnold has done. For me, just reading that in your bio, I was like, this is unbelievable because not many people in the world can do or ever will do what you've done. And I'm I'm curious if you could explain to people that don't know anything about you, what it is you actually do that you think makes you so great.
1:13Well, so, I mean, I'm, I'm a professional rock climber and a rock on my whole life. I mean, the thing that I'm most well known for is free soloing, which is climbing without a rope. And I mean, I think the quote that you just read is specifically referring to free soloing all cap, which is a wall in Yosemite national park, um, which, which to date I'm the only person to have done. uh no one's ever done it again no no no no and what what is what is the what is it you actually did i mean i watched the documentary it was incredible but yes i mean yes the documentary free solar kind of covers it but it's a free solar del capitan which is a 3 000 foot granite wall um so yeah climbing this big wall without a rope without a rope yeah which which was very challenging you know it's funny now it's been a little while and i'm like oh yeah it's just climbing.
2:00I did this thing. Yeah, I did this thing climbing. But no, it was something that I was working on for many, many years and sort of dreaming about for many years before that. And how long did the actual climb take? The actual climb took, I think, 356, almost four hours. Four hours. Which, for context, the average party climbing all cabins. So, typically, you climb that 3 ,000-foot wall with ropes and equipment. And people normally camp on the wall, and they normally spend three to five days on the wall. Really? Yeah. So, So they take three to five days. You get it in under four hours. Yeah, though it's kind of like the difference between ultra running and backpacking, where it's like once you decide not to take all the camping stuff, then it becomes ultra running and you wind up going a lot faster.
2:41Right. So some of it is just a product of the style. Like by choosing to go without ropes, you just wind up going a lot faster. You have to. But it's obviously a lot more extreme to go without ropes. So has anyone attempted, but they've come down or out? No, no. I don't even think anybody's playing in that space right now. like really nobody's really doing anything quite like that why is that and why why is no one else trying to do that and why were you so curious to do something like that with no rope i mean okay so there just aren't that many people free soloing right now and part of that i mean the part of that might be broader trends in the climbing world like climbing climbing went into the olympics in 2020 in tokyo and so right now i think the sort of cutting edge of rock climbing is more on the competition front and uh you know the olympics and world cups and things like that and so i think that a lot of the talent in climbing right now is sort of focused on competitions whereas when i was growing up i think some of the sort of cultural the the coolness in climbing was more around speed climbing and big wall climbing and and free soloing and things like that like more the adventure side of climbing uh-huh like if you think of climbing as a spectrum between sort of athleticism and adventure like i grew up and the pendulum was shifted slightly more on the adventure side right now i think it's slightly more shifted on the athleticism side which i think is maybe part of the reason that fewer people are doing big wall solos and more people are going to the olympics but but whatever i mean that's just the way a sport grows up yeah i mean i think the main thing is just that nobody is really doing that much free soloing right now no in general not even just like smaller walls or smaller mountains well there must be people doing some stuff that i don't know that much about, but there's just nobody.
4:22Well, okay. So, you know, when you ask like, has anyone free solo LCAP? Kind of like, man, for me to free solo LCAP took this very long journey. And I did maybe 30 or 40 other big walls around the world that sort of led up to it. LCAP is a very particular kind of challenge. And so to tackle that kind of thing, you start by climbing smaller walls or slightly more difficult walls or, you know, walls that are maybe smaller, but harder in some way or smaller and easier in other ways. And, you know, basically you mix and match all these pieces until eventually you feel comfortable doing something that big and that takes years yeah that took like years and years but at this point nobody's even done any of those other pieces like of the 30-ish things that I did to lead up to El Cap nobody's actually repeated any of them so you know when you're like oh has anyone done El Cap I'm like well no nobody's even started down the path like nobody's even wow nobody's even aiming in that direction so people are still climbing El Cap with ropes yeah yeah people climb El Cap all the time all the time with ropes yeah but no one's tried it or completed it without ropes no freestalling is a completely different thing wow man i mean climbing it with a rope obviously requires a degree of skill and you have to be a skilled climber but but it's by no means elite like any average person with who's like read enough books and yeah you could really you could climb all cap with a come on no i mean it would be it would be the biggest adventure of your life you spend five days on the wall you'd come out totally haggard and but you could do it really yeah it seems like it's a straight up wall though i mean with like very little you know and if i'm so big though i'm 230 pounds how am i gonna hold myself up but so if the two of us went up all cap together and i was able to lead more of it you'd be able to ascend ropes you'd be able to camp on the lead like really you could get up it yeah you'd be worked you know like it would be hard for you but like you could do it you know wow but the difference between that and free soling the difference that and climbing without a rope is is vast like yeah that i would argue you'll never do yeah yeah yeah i don't even know if i could climb like 30 feet without without a rope on anything you know unless it was like i could walk it i mean i i think that anybody can learn how to climb to a high level if they're interested and passionate about you know if they're curious but then there's another step between that and then free soiling walls yeah yeah because that's like sort of you have to devote your like devote your life to it it's like a crap you know when did you first think like i want to do climbing in general how old were you what was there something you saw or some someone that experienced it with you that you were like oh this is something i'm really interested in no there wasn't like a specific moment i just always liked climbing and now now i have a daughter who uh will be too soon and she climbs on things all the time and it's really hard to tell how much that's nature versus nurture because she sees uh you know her mother and father climbing all the time and basically everybody around her climbs all the time so part of that has probably just heard being influenced by the people she's around but also she seems particularly into clambering on things and it makes me think that that's probably just how i was as a child because i got into rock climbing because my parents took me to a climbing gym when i was uh 10 but it's because i've been climbing trees and buildings and like things my whole life before that before that you were climbing so like okay let's put it yeah i was like yeah i was really and you know i was the kid that was always running across the top of the monkey bars because you're like oh look i can balance you know like that kind of just testing yourself on cool things And so my parents thought that the climbing gym would be a safer outlet.
7:33And so they took me in to learn. Did you ever have any like big falls as a kid when you were climbing trees or the monkey bars? Yeah, I broke my arm twice as a little kid. Really? Like before I learned how to rock climb, I fell off a play structure, two different play structure things and broke my arm twice. And then I also broke my arm again at the climbing gym when I was a teenager. Did that pain ever hold you back from thinking, ah, maybe this isn't for me? No, no. If anything, you just learn that a broken wrist is like no big deal. Like six weeks later, you're totally fine. And it's like, yeah, that's no thing.
8:02Was there ever a time? I mean, I fell out of so many trees. Really? Yeah. I mean, yeah, when you're a kid learning how to climb stuff, you just fall down all the time. But you never were afraid to fall? Well, no, I think I was afraid to fall. I mean, I don't want to get hurt, but I really like climbing things. And you always think that you're going to make it. You know, it's like, you never think you're going to fall off. Was there ever a climb that you did that is supposed to be really easy? like almost the most basic climb ever, like someone like me could do it easily or someone, you know, maybe someone with some beginner skills could do this easily that you thought you got into a very sticky situation where you thought, oh, I'm in a bad situation and I could actually fall and potentially die.
8:45I mean, I've been in a lot of sticky situations. I'm not sure if any of them were on things that should have, they were actually that easy. I mean, I guess the challenge though is that if you think something should be easy for you and then it winds up being just a little bit harder than you think it should be you know when your expectations mismatch reality then that can be i mean the thing with free soloing is so much of it is psychological so anytime your experience doesn't match or like your expectations don't match the reality then it's easy to get out of control mentally a little bit you're suddenly because if you start to get scared you start to second guess you start to to hesitate like all of those things where none of those things help your performance.
9:26So then it can start to be sort of a negative spiral where it gets quite scary. What do you think has helped you keep your mindset so clear under challenging situations? Is it the mental preparation? Is it the physical preparation? Is it just being present in the moment? Well, part of it, I think there are a couple of things. One is experience, like being in situations like that, like basically getting really scared and then managing to maintain some degree of self-control when you're really scared is a bit of an acquired skill. You just have to get scared over and over. You know, people ask all the time, like, oh, you know, you don't feel fear.
10:03I'm like, no, of course I feel fear. I've just gotten scared so much. You know, you just get used to it. When you feel fear, like when you're like, oh, I'm in a very scary situation, what goes through your mind and how do you get out of it? well I think a lot of the time I experience the same things everybody else does which is like anger tenseness like oh I hate this like why am I here why is it like why is this happening to me you know like I don't know if you're in some tricky situation climate it starts to rain and all of a sudden you're like now it's really bad and you're like oh I'm so screwed you know you start like bargaining I mean what are all the stages of denial and grief you go through the whole list of like oh why and then at a certain point you're like I'm on this cliff and it's draining, no amount of anything is going to change that.
10:49You just need to deal. And then, and then you either go up or you go down or, you know, you figure it out. Were you, were you pretty self-taught on your mental conditioning, mental training and mindset around all these things? Or did you have mentors and teachers or friends kind of give you these psychological skills? Well, I mean, I'd say I'm largely self-taught, but it's not of like a self-taught like thinking about it and figuring it out it's more like having experiences and just seeing what works over time but also I mean I've always cast a wide net I've read all the books about climbing I've read all the you know books on mental coaching but the thing is when I was growing up as a climber there were far fewer resources for that kind of thing because climbing was just a smaller sport now there's a lot more available but at the time you know there were a handful of books I obviously read them all and I read all the climbing magazines and you'd read all the stories you'd read people's memoirs I mean a lot of the things you can learn are from other people's experiences in the mountains and like somebody else has some harrowing experience and you're like oh well I don't want to do that yeah yeah or it's like I see how he survived like I would you know I should try to do the same thing if that ever happens to me you know like let's hope it never happens but um who has been your biggest teacher around your mindset in this world I honestly don't even I mean there's there are very few people who free solo and so um you don't really talk to other people doing the exact same thing so it's more like you apply lessons from like the other edges of climbing.
12:13Because you can get really, really scared climbing with a rope. Like most of my scariest experiences climbing have actually been with a rope on. Really? Because having a rope tied to your harness doesn't mean that you're actually connected to the wall safely. Like you still have to place gear into the rock and secure yourself with anchors and things. Because if you don't have an anchor, you could fall down and swing and hit your head. Yeah. So like, you know, have you climbed before at all? In like a rock climbing chamber? Like if you ever like watched a climbing movie. Yeah, yeah. So like you tie into the rope and then you start setting out up the wall.
12:40And as you go up the wall, you have to place protection as you go. And so sometimes, say, the rock quality is really bad. And so you can't get good protection for 20 feet, 30 feet, 40 feet. And so if you're 40 feet above your last piece, that means you're looking at like an 80-foot-plus fall. You know, because you'd fall the distance plus that much past it. The rope afterwards. Yeah, exactly. It's double the distance to your last piece. You could die from that probably. Yeah, exactly. So if you're taking an 80-foot fall, realistically, you know, like you could die. And then how do you get down?
13:05What if you fall, break your arm, or hit your head? Like, how do you get down? Well, that becomes the stuff of legends. You know, then it's like some harrowing survival story. And that's what you read in people's books and stuff. Like one arm. Yeah, no, there are all these legendary stories from climbing, like some people climbing on the south face of Half Dome, which is like a very big wall in Yosemite. But the guy fell, broke both his ankles, and then they had to extricate themselves from the wall. And then he crawled all the way back down the trail with two broken ankles. What? Yeah, which is like a, you know, seven mile crawl back down to the valley floor.
13:35and so anyway you know i grew up reading all these stories and reading about these kinds of things so all that to say many of the scariest experience are with a rope on because having the rope doesn't make you inherently safe you still need protection but the thing is when you do have a rope you're much more willing to push into the unknown because you're like surely i'll get to good protection eventually you know you have all this gear on you you're like eventually i'll get somewhere where i can use this like i'm sure it'll get better and it's easy to sucker yourself into positions of true fear because you're like i'm a little scared now but i'm sure it'll get better and you keep going and you're like well now i'm more scared but it's got to get better so you keep going keep going it's like uh it's like a sunken cost by apology yeah yeah good money what's the what's the farthest you've gone without having to like i guess plug in without an anchor yeah yeah well so uh doing a first ascent in africa um i went like the full length of the rope like 70 meters so 230 and 30 feet without without any gear because so we'd eyeballed this this feature up this this big granite dome um in angola and um and from the ground we thought that the dome was like maybe 500 feet high and we thought that the big crack that we were looking at would be like a hand crate like something you put your hands into it turns out that the mountain itself was more like a thousand or fifteen hundred feet high and so the thing that looked like a crack was actually like a giant man-sized chimney so it was like bigger than this table and so it meant that you know you have all this climbing gear that would normally fit into a space like the size of this cup and then the crack is the big size of the table and you're like oh no and so i wound up going a full 230 feet up up a thing like that with no protection and then by sheer miracle of nature there was a giant rock wedged inside the chimney at a certain point so i was able to sit down on that and sort of anchor myself to the rock and then bring my partner up and then do it again holy cow man but yeah so how many feet was that like 230 230 feet with no anchor yeah so in theory if you fell you would take a 400 and you're dead yeah like it would be disastrous yeah was there ever a point where you're like oh i'm going too far now there's nowhere to anchor if i slip i'm out or do you not have that or do you not have those thoughts no no i mean you have those thoughts like you should definitely be aware that if you make a mistake you're going to die i mean and that's the thing with climbing is that you always have this ongoing dialogue around risk because you should know when it's okay to fall and when it's not okay to fall but that point there was no it wasn't okay to fall yeah and so but that means that you should climb a lot more carefully and you should be very careful about what you grab and how you grab it because if you've just placed protection and you know you're totally safe then you should you should take risk you can just grab things you can move a little faster like you don't have to spend a lot of time thinking about everything you do because you're totally safe yeah hey the rock is good enough to anchor in different places you're you know you can anchor a few feet or something if you know you're safe you should just move confidently and move move with ease but if you know you're gonna die you should probably move pretty freaking carefully you know is it harder to go up or to go down something like that it depends actually chimneys like a big wide thing like that is actually slightly easier to go down because it's gravity assisted you just kind of like ease up the pressure and you just slide back down um but that's so this is kind of like a chimney where your feet are against the wall and your back is against the wall yeah exactly what if the chimney is too big and you're like then it starts to get really scary and you're like inches holding on like going up yeah no i mean if you have to go to like full body span then it's then it's really have you ever done that before yeah but uh but not that far yeah yeah i mean this is crazy so i feel like it'd be almost harder going down like trying to see where the holds are and then you have to unhook essentially right like it depends on what exactly you're doing but oftentimes going down actually isn't is easier in some ways because when you look down you can see all the holds okay because sometimes when you're looking up a rock wall it's really hard to see you know what's an in cut like what's a positive edge and what isn't you know it just all looks like blank rock but when you're looking down it often you can see all the little edges and things sometimes but then on the other hand when you're looking down you're leading with your feet which are further away and it's kind of hard to see whereas when you're going up you're looking at your next hand holds it's all within this this tight field of vision just depends but it's fascinating man i know you have to go to a climbing gym practice oh my gosh i'm so pink though is it so it's so hard i don't think it matters really well okay so for low angle climbing like something 90 degrees or less you're putting all your weight on your feet anyway okay and there's big hole there's big like things to hold on if they're really small holds the idea is that you transfer as much weight as possible off your feet and you and it's like climbing a staircase so i mean just because you're big i mean you can still climb stairs i assume yeah is it that easy though at a like a rock climbing gym yeah somebody with good technique should be climbing so i've heard described as uh when you climb a staircase you use the handrails but you use them for balance not to pull yourself up right and climbing should be the same way basically that the hand holds are basically for balance and you still drive with your legs i mean that changes a little bit if the wall gets more than more than vertical sure because then obviously you're hanging from your arms and then it does it is harder to be really big and heavy but you know but being big and strong helps so really you know i think the only time the only chance that i would actually go to a rock climbing gym is if you were there to like give me some advice and coach me up the wall that i'd be like okay maybe i could do this i think i think it'd be easier for you than you think yeah you have an athletic background you're like you're sure you know but i feel like my hands my arms get so tired like years ago that's probably because you're using them too much uh as opposed to my feet yeah stand on your feet and then use your hands for balance you know be able to relax your hands and just use them to and be close to the wall right that was yeah that's what i remember it was just so hard yeah i was just trying to muscle myself up as opposed to using but that's a common thing if you're already a big strong man you're like oh use my big muscles because i have them but then they're exhausted yeah exactly but they get tired so fast so it's all in the feet yeah it's all in the feet i read somewhere about you doing a brain scan and having like the fear signaling your brain less than others is that true uh sort of not exactly so that's also a scene in the film free solo in the documentary um and that was taken from a science journalist we did this profile thing where we went yeah used an fmri and basically like look at images while in the fmri and you see like a brain scan yeah yeah and the takeaway was that yes while doing this battery of images my brain didn't light up the way that others do but the conclusion was more that i had probably desensitized myself to that level of stimulus over years of exposure so not so much like my brain is missing a piece which i think is the simplistic like a lot of people are like oh there's something wrong with you you're like no i think the real takeaway is that through you know chronic desensitization like i'm just no longer like i need a different level of stimulus gotcha which to me makes total sense well and also and you see that like in monks and things like that i mean people will change their brain in all kinds of ways if you do the same type of activity for long enough but i wouldn't be surprised if it's a little bit of both nature and nurture where i was probably a little less sensitive to that stuff to begin with which is probably why i like free soling and doing some of these other things climbing wise.
20:34But then I've also spent 15, at that point, you know, I spent 15 years doing it all the time. And so naturally got more comfortable with it. A lot of people that come to watch this show or listen, um, not everyone, but a lot of people struggle with the fear of failure, the fear of going after their goals, going after their dreams and failing and either being embarrassed by it or just feeling bad about it and that that fear that they're they're holding on to makes them unable to take action how do you think people can overcome their fears better is it only through taking action over and over and kind of desensitizing yourself to the emotions and the feelings around failure well that is one that is a good way to do it i suppose yeah but i I mean, one way I think that you see in climbing a lot is just starting by deciding whether or not your fears are rational or well-founded.
21:35You know, I mean, in climbing, it's a little bit easier because your fear is often physical. Like, it's based on some physical thing. Like, you're actually in real danger as opposed to sort of psychological, like, you know, fear of failure and things like that. But I think it's easy to start with, like, is this a rational fear? Does this make sense? And in some ways, that actually makes more sense for the psychological things. Because if you're like, oh, I'm afraid because my friends will make fun of me. you know, maybe you should really think about it. Like, will your friends make fun of you for taking your shot at your dream?
22:01Like, no, your friends, if they're real friends, they're going to be pretty psyched for you. And they'll be, you know, bummed that it didn't work out, but they'll be impressed that you tried and they'll, they'll respect the effort. You know, it's like, I think that that's maybe the place to start is like, is this a well-founded fear in climbing? A lot of the time when you evaluate your fears, they often are well-founded. Like if you fail, you will die or whatever, you know, like if you slip, you'll die. You'll get hurt at least, yeah. Yeah, and so in those cases, it makes sense by starting by addressing them how you can, you know, mitigating the danger, minimizing the risk, you know, doing whatever you can to make it safer so that you won't be as afraid.
22:37Right. You know, that's why I think talking about fear is complicated because it's, yeah, sometimes you should ignore it, you should push past it, you should suppress it, you should do whatever. But a lot of the time, you should probably address the root cause of the fear. Like a lot of the time, you're afraid because you're actually in danger or because like something terrible you know like people being afraid of snakes and spiders i mean that's often well founded because there are many places in the world where you will die if you interact with the wrong little creature yeah but depending on where you live you know you should know because a lot of them aren't that dangerous and and in that case it doesn't really make sense to be that afraid right what are you most afraid of these days i don't know i mean the big you know death i guess something.
23:19Are you afraid of death? I mean, yeah, I'm like, I'd say I'm afraid of severe pain. Like, I don't, I mean, I don't like feeling pain any more than anybody else really. Were you afraid of death before you started a family? Yeah, I mean, I never wanted to die. I mean, I love being alive, you know? I mean, the thing with free-souling is it's not like a death wish, you know? The, I mean, in some ways, the real pleasure of free-souling is taking something that seems like it should be really, really scary, and then making it feel safe. Because like on your best climbs, you feel good while you're doing it, but you're doing something that seems like it should be very, very scary.
23:56But, you know, that's what makes it magical is because it doesn't feel scary when you do it well. Right. But before you got, you know, before you started having a family, did you look at your profession differently than after having a family? not so far but i mean right now you know my daughter will be too soon and i feel like we're just starting to have like a nice relationship maybe in the last six months i feel like we're actually community you know we're having a good time bonding yeah we're bonding yeah we're like you're just like my buddy now like we do stuff and it's awesome and so i wouldn't be surprised if as that relationship grows you know my perspective around risk and climbing and stuff changed a little bit really but maybe not because i you know because i've been in serious relationships with romantic partners throughout all the hardest climbing i've done so and didn't change the way you would address like the things you wanted to tackle and take on no not really really though i wouldn't be surprised though if children like having dependence is a little bit different just because romantic partners it's always seem a little bit more disposable you know not to be too right right children it's different yeah yeah because you have a real responsibility to raise your child with a romantic partner you're kind of like well i mean there are a lot of there are a lot of people out there exactly no matter how incredible your partner is it was kind of like i don't feel as beholden to them yeah i do a child of course did you have any fear around having your first child no no i've definitely always wanted a family and yeah i mean even that's the thing is that even through all the extreme free soul line and whatever I've always you know wanted to be an old person with grandkids at some point really yeah there's I mean there's seasons to life I mean you know you can't you can't just like do the hardest craziest thing forever and and why would you want to get so tired you know it's yeah it's funny I've had this conversation but I mean this is a whole aside but so I mean I'm at the point in life I'm 38 a lot of my friends are a little bit older but similar range of life and so a lot of professional climbers you know around my age who have partners who like really want to start a family but they're kind of like not sure they still have some things they want to do and you know there's like this this tension between like do we start having kids and a conversation i've had with several of my friends who are professional climbers is that you know i've been i've been a professional climber for 15 years and it's been amazing and i love it and i've been going so hard for 15 years or actually a little more than that now like 17 years or something but i'm 38 so realistically i could keep going at roughly the same pace into my 50s probably because climbing climbing has more longevity than most sports because it's relatively low impact on your body and you don't really get injured and so you can go pretty hard for a long time wow but so that but so if i doubled what i've done that gave me 55 but then i'd still have 40 more years of life potentially before i die and you're kind of like there's no way i could do it two more times after that wow it's like you'd be so tired and just the idea of taking everything that i've done in the last 15, 17 years and then doing it all again, I'm like, I don't even know if I want to.
26:55Right. So much. Really? I mean, I've, you know. And probably the more times you do these things, yes, you get more skilled at it and better at it, but it's also more chances of an injury, more chances of something bad happening too, right? Yeah. And I mean, I would think also just a little bit less passion for it. Because like if you've just been doing it. You've done it all. Yeah. I mean, I haven't done it all. And there are always like other things to do and other challenges. but I have done most of the things that I've dreamt of my whole life. So, you know, like I can dream up new things, but do they mean as much as the things that I dreamt of since I was a kid?
27:29You know, it's like, when you just keep adding more things onto your list, because you're like, I don't want the list to end. Is that cool? For a bigger mountain and a new place. Yeah. It's going to be freezing. I'm going to be naked climbing. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. I'm like, do I need that? I'm like, I don't know if I need that. Right. I mean, there are plenty of climbing challenges. I'm still understanding things that I'm working on and whatever. but you know i have done a lot of things that i want to do what about you know this profession is a dangerous profession i mean you've had a lot of people that have lost their lives over the years right a lot of people that you're close with or people that you climbed with or knew of how dangerous is this sport really well yeah i mean i've definitely known i've known a lot of people who've died climbing but part of that is also because it's professional climber you know everybody so any kind of accident you at least tangentially know the people involved probably um i mean climbing is interesting because it's very high consequence so if you have an accident it can often be fatal but you very rarely have accidents and so i contrast climbing against a sport like mountain biking let's say where people break their clavicle like every other season right so i mean i kind of prefer a sport like climbing where you basically never get injured but you're always facing a tiny, tiny risk that you could die.
28:43Wow. If you did something wrong or if, you know, a lapse of attention or whatever. Like there's always the chance you could die. And there's always the chance of like minor injuries and things. But realistically, if you're just a casual climber that climbs in the gym and goes sport climbing outside on the weekends and stuff, you'll probably go your whole life without ever being injured or witnessing a serious accident. Whereas if you're a serious mountain biker, you're going to get hurt every year. Really? Something's going to happen. Yeah. I mean, gravity-assisted sports, it's like if you're an elite skier, you're getting injured every season or like every couple of seasons.
29:14Right. You may not die. Yeah. But that's the thing. That's what I was going to say is that like as a mountain biker, skier, things like that, it's very rare that you die. I mean, you know, you can, but it's not common, but you're always going to get injured. I kind of prefer the other risk profile where it's like, you're never going to have little injuries, but there's always the risk you die. Wow. I think it's a little more heightened. Tell me, it's very heightened. is there something about that that excites you that like i could go up this right now and not come back well it's not that excites me but i think it demands a certain level of attention and focus and i just don't like i don't want to break my clavicle every year like i don't want to i don't want to like separate my ac joint like break my shoulders you know it's like i mean i have friends that have all been hurt biking doing different things and you're kind of like i don't want that like yeah i love climbing and i don't want to take time off because i you know broke my arm doing something stupid like skiing and biking or whatever.
30:05What is the thing you think about when you have a, you know, a long climb and stakes are high? What is the thing that you're thinking about? Are you thinking about the end? Are you thinking about moment by moment? Are you thinking about the next few moments? Are you, are you distracted thinking, putting your mind in a different place? Where, where does your mind go? Yeah, it depends. So say on El Cap, specifically a free selling El Cap, the route on El Cap can be broken down roughly as a third easy, a third medium climbing, and a third hard, just sort of interspersed throughout the 3 ,000 feet.
30:40Like some of it is easy, some of it's, but then some of it's very hard. So on the easy terrain, my mind can just kind of wander and you can think about whatever you want. On the medium terrain, you know, you kind of have to focus a little more. And then on the very hard terrain, you're basically just focused on the movement and you're not even necessarily thinking about the movement you're just doing the movement and your mind is just sort of empty but i think um the easiest way to understand that is if you compare it to running or something let's say i think most people have had experience running pretty hard and if you're casually jogging then you can like look around and enjoy things but if you're sprinting as hard as you can sprint then you're really not thinking about anything you're just trying to keep breathing and keep your feet under you and that's it you're just doing doing the thing you're second by second you just focus on that second you're just hoping your lungs don't explode like going as hard as you can and i mean so i think that that's a pretty similar i think it's a good analogy we're like basically depending on the level of intensity you have more or less uh you know you focus more or less and i think you know people are like oh well you know if you're distracted on the easy part is that dangerous you're like yeah you don't want to be completely complacent you don't want to just like slip and fall off because you're not paying any attention right but it's the same way like when you're driving in like casual conditions your mind can be thinking about anything else and you can just trust your body to do the thing that you've been doing your whole life yeah sometimes you drive somewhere you're like how did they get here you know you get to the end spot you're like i don't remember getting here totally you know it's like but your but your body and your mind knows where to go yeah you're paying attention and you're doing something that you've practiced for possibly many hours a day for your entire life, which is funny.
32:21You know, I mean, nobody thinks of driving that way, but it is something that you basically practice, maybe not in an intentional level and not like in a structured way, but you do have a lot of experience with it over your life, especially like living in LA. I mean, you know, if you're driving like, yeah, like hours a day that you're practicing this thing that you don't want to do. So I don't know. I mean, I think it makes sense that something you've practiced that much, you can just execute on autopilot. Yeah. But before you go up on something challenging, are you visualizing it? Are you, you know, on El Cap, obviously you talked about the whole process of like going up there, doing the moves.
32:54Like you had a journal, you're like going over everything, but just on maybe a normal challenging adventure, how do you approach that? it depends um i mean so in climbing basically depends whether i've prepared for it or not because there's some climbs that you intentionally don't practice and train for but it's climbs all have ratings like difficulties assigned to them and so there are certain things that are so far within your comfort zone that you just kind of know that you can go up there and deal with whatever you find and so in that case you don't necessarily visualize or practice or do anything ahead of time because you just know that it's within your comfort zone but if something is a hard enough rating that it's like, you know, on the edge of your comfort zone or beyond it, then you kind of have to employ all the techniques I was using on Alcap, like, you know, actual repelling and preparing and practicing and memorizing moves and then visualizing the moves and rehearsing and just all the things.
33:48And so, yeah, it just depends on what level of challenge you're looking for. From the moment you said, I'm going to climb Alcap to the actual day you did it, how much time was that? When you made the decision, this is going to happen how much time was that well a decision like i'm going to do it or the or not the dream i want to do it well both what was the dream but then like okay i feel ready now i'm going to actually train for it yeah okay so in 2008 i sold uh the northwest face of half dome which is like a 2000 foot wall and as soon as i did that i was kind of like oh el cap is the next obvious thing so starting in 2009 i was like el cap this year but it was you know but then i drove into the valley looked at El Cap and was like there is no way it's like totally out of the question it's way too much too scary it's just it's too crazy and so then from 2009 for the next I guess six years or so I kept thinking each year that the like this is the year you know like maybe this is really well I kept kind of just hoping that I would drive into Yosemite and look at the wall and it would look easy you never did no like and it's funny because even now having done it I look at it still doesn't look easy how did i do that that was crazy totally it's uh i mean it's just it looks insane no matter what but so i spent years kind of hoping that i would just somehow get a little better and it would just look easy and so then by 2015 um so that's now you know six years later of like having this dream and you were climbing it also yeah yeah i was climbing with ropes and with partners and doing speed records and doing all kinds of things with ropes yeah so you're doing it but i was doing plenty of other walls without ropes and things you know like i was i'm i was a professional climber so i was trying really hard i was doing all kinds of things and i was just hoping that by doing all these things eventually all cap would look easy but yeah i got this no big deal yeah yeah it's not like i just drove in and was like i hope it changed you know it's like i was like grinding like all year going on expeditions like climbing hard routes free soloing big walls like doing film right like doing all this stuff for years yeah for years hoping that at some point el cap would be like would look chill and it just never did.
35:45So then by 2015, I finally sort of accepted that it was never going to be easy and that I should probably just start doing the prep work specifically, like basically start acting as if I was going to do it, even if I didn't really know if I could do it and just see what would happen. And, um, and then by sheer coincidence, um, the, the film directing duo, like Jimmy Chin and Chai Vassarelli, the, the people who co-directed the film Free Solo, uh, approached me that year by doing a feature documentary and so as a professional climber you're like oh cool somebody wants to make a movie about me climbing something like it makes sense that you know I've had this dream that I want to work on forever and now some people show up wanting to like basically help me work on a dream project I'm like this is perfect and so um so then we made the film free solo if they didn't approach you to do this film do you think you would have done El Cap I think I still would have but I think it actually would have been well it would have been harder in some ways but then also easier in other ways because obviously the the stress the pressure of a film project doesn't really help with something like that in some ways but actually it does help a lot with some of the nitty-gritty like the logistics like carrying rope to the summit of the wall rappelling in uh working on sections pulling the rope back out afterwards stashing stuff like moving equipment it does help to have friends and partners involved who are like working on the same project so you're not just alone out there yeah well no i just mean the actual like weight of like so carrying 1200 feet of rope to the summit of the wall each coil each spool of rope is you know 50 to 75 pounds like basically it's it represents days of effort um just to get out there yeah just not even climbing yeah exactly it's just a lot of work and so having a team you can spread out the work a little bit better wow and it was helpful for me to have people that i could talk to about it and because free soloing you normally keep it pretty low-key because nobody wants to hear about your soloing projects really no no because everyone's like that's a bad idea you shouldn't do that like nobody no one's encouraging you no one's encouraging you to climb thousands of feet in the air without a rope yeah exactly like if you have a dream like that that's kind of a fragile dream like you don't totally believe you can do it and then all of your friends are constantly telling you you shouldn't do it you're never gonna you're never gonna try you know so you want to keep it like pretty close to the chest so you don't tell people your dreams no not for freesawing stuff you're just maybe like one person like this is something i'm thinking about and they you know they got not even really real cap i mean not really maybe some like hypothetical conversations with friends over the years but never like really yeah because it's just like because it was too it's too much it's too crazy so you couldn't tell anyone you're i guess your girlfriend at the time she yeah well that was the thing with the film project is that once we're doing the film project then obviously all the people involved with the film know what's going on and then and then you bring in a few people because you're filming with them like climbing partners and basically because we were doing the film project it sort of opened the the net wide enough that i was able to talk to a handful of people about it get some advice and like which which turned out helping a bit but otherwise you no one would have known you would have just rehearsed and practiced for months almost all of my other major free solos were done basically alone with no one knowing well some i mean with varying degrees because for certain roots you need a partner to work on with you right and that's the thing like with el cap it's so big like i knew that I would need partners to help like going up and down and repelling the wall, like repelling the whole wall by yourself.
39:07Like you can do it, but it's a grind and doing it over and over is a bit of a recipe for disaster. Um, like it helps to have somebody with you just to manage the ropes and have the gear and all this stuff. And so it, it just helps to have a film crew with it because, you know, like you might have some really good friends who are willing to go up there with you a couple of days, but they're not going to go up there with you for months because nobody's that get a friend right they're kind of like okay like that was unless you're paying me i'll go once or twice exactly yeah i got a life yeah exactly they have and it's like hard work how you know the top of the wall and rappelling down a big wall over and over like it's not this is like an easy day you know sunrise the sundown type of thing like all day well it's actually more like way pre-sunrise like very very early and then trying to be down by uh before sunset before the sun hits certain parts of the wall, but so it's more like a four to two kind of, you know, 4 a.m.
39:59to like 2 p.m. operation on the wall every day. Like every day for months? No, no. I mean, like a couple days a week. I mean, they're really big days. You have to rest. Okay. So you had the dream kind of hypothetical since 2008 or nine, but then you realized, oh, this is actually the most terrifying thing I've ever seen in my life. Probably at one of my thinking, that's a crazy dream. But ever you come back you train you try other stuff you come back hoping to look at the wall and thinking i got this for years you didn't have it yeah until the point where you said maybe i've got this and then the film crew said not even necessarily maybe i've got this more like you know what i'll never know if i've got this or not unless i try because i kept kind of hoping that it would look easy before i put in the work and finally i realized i had to flip it and put in the work before it would look easy just to act as if you were going to exactly exactly basically i just realized that i'd have to put in all the work and then maybe it would happen maybe it wouldn't but i would just have to put in the work regardless to find out because otherwise i was never going to know and so what did that work look like for you like how much time how many reps so yeah so then the work wound up being as it turns out almost two years of of effort on the wall but part of that's because one of the seasons i injured my hand and like a climbing just like random things happen you know life happens and i climbed a bunch of other routes while i was working on it and you know life goes on but basically it was like another two years of like working on the cell cap project with one with one goal essentially yeah yeah and and mapping it out how does that look like then do you kind of have your journal and map out here's the game plan for month one of course yeah a little bit and then actually more specifically i had my game plan for the route itself like here are the parts that have question marks um like i'm not sure about this one move on this one section and like what about this section and then there's like these loose rocks up here and there's like this bush in the crack up there and you know there's just random stuff and so then you know piece by piece I worked my way through the the checklist so to speak and you know tried to like make make myself feel comfortable in the different parts and I found workarounds through around a few sections that I never really felt that comfortable and um yeah and then eventually just sort of how many times did you do the whole thing assisted with ropes before you went after it?
42:12Not that many, but that's because climbing the whole route from bottom to top with a rope actually wasn't the most efficient way to work on it. Because like I was saying, maybe a third of the route is pretty easy. You don't need to do that. Yeah. And the third, this kind of medium, I don't really need to do that either. So I kind of wanted to focus all my effort on the hardest sections just because it's a better use of time. So it's just doing section after section, just repeating it. The other thing is that if you climb from bottom to top then you need a partner with you right able to climb a wall that quickly and there aren't that many just like five people maybe yeah yeah like literally they're in the world in the world yeah and they're willing to do that with you maybe one or two times but then they're pretty tired and they're kind of sort of like why are we doing this over and over yeah so for me it made more sense to rappel down the wall by myself or with a partner and work on the key sections because then i can be a little more strategic about the hard part so you started at the top and went down yeah jones always start at the top interesting yeah so like a typical day might be starting like hiking to the summit very very early in the morning how long does that take to hike it um like an hour or two like two hours like an easy route on the back yeah you basically hike around the back oh okay so i'd like bike across the valley get to the get to this spot in the forest you hike around the back takes a couple hours wow but that's like when you have all your stuff already set up on the wall like with loads moving really fast and then you rappel down the wall i'd typically rappel down to the hardest section which is 2300 feet off the ground and then i would do that a bunch of times and then i would keep going from there down um and then work on a couple other sections on the way down and then try to be down by lunchtime or something but when you're rappelling down 3 000 feet and you see the ground 3 000 feet below you do you ever get scared no i mean well but like if you get scared just from seeing it then how are you gonna climb without a rope you know what i mean that's crazy but you're so high up man i know but that's fine but you're secure you're on a rope or in a harness you can just look down and hang there dangling and you feel fine if you know that you're safe i mean if i thought the anchor was gonna rip then i'd find it really scary you know like if i thought that the rope was about to snap then i find it pretty scary right but if you're just hanging dangling and you feel like everything's secure i'm good you can yeah that's fine look back dangle 3 000 feet in the air and not well So when you ride in an airplane and you look out the window, is that scary?
44:27You're like, no. You feel totally confident in your safety. And it's pretty chill. But I'm seated inside of something. Yeah, but it's the same thing. I'm in a harness. You're just sitting in your harness. You're just chilling. But it's something that you've spent five days a week doing for 20 plus years. Yeah. It feels pretty chill. Have you ever done those observation decks and skyscrapers where it's like a glass floor? Yeah, it's kind of scary. Yeah, it's like a little scary. But you know you're secure. But you know it's safe. But still. Yeah, you saw all those other people doing it. you're like it's safe it's fine and then it's chill on it you just enjoy the view you appreciate the place so i get school yeah after a minute you're like okay i'm fine if it's just a little square and i know that's the other thing with with all this you know all my talk of hiking to the top repelling the wall you're spending eight hours a day on the wall so yeah i'm getting used to it the first step over the edge can be kind of scary and especially in the morning there'll be like an updraft and it's cold wind and you're like literally looking over the edge of a 3 000 foot cliff and your ropes are all tangled and it's like chilly and you're just sort of like, Oh, I'm a little on edge.
45:23But then once you start, like you just can't be on edge all day, you know, eight hours in, you're like, I'm so tired. Like I'm just relaxed. Yeah. You're like, it's, it's fine. Now, after you completed El Cap, uh, your wife mentions in Arctic Ascent, which is the new show coming out, which the trailer is unbelievable. We'll have it linked up here. She mentioned that you seemed lost. And as an athlete, myself, pursuing goals in many different sports in high school and college, being a two-sport All-American, professional athlete, USA handball team, I remember accomplishing big athletic goals and almost feeling depressed within 30 to 60 minutes after the celebration.
46:0730 minutes? I remember like maybe a couple hours, but like the dinner after the event was done. Like later that night, I'd be like hoping to feel something else. I never really felt what I thought I would after 10 years of pursuing a goal. I was always like, oh, I still don't love myself the way I think I should. I don't feel happy the way I'm supposed to feel. I don't feel, it didn't solve every problem in my life. Yeah. No, I mean, I think maybe I'd sort of already learned that lesson a bunch of times before Common El Cap. Yeah, you know you just learned that it's not solving any of your problems yeah but that said i still love climbing things so like climbing all cap i was still very satisfied and i'm still very satisfied with having climbed i was never but i think what my wife referred to i mean i would always like i don't know if i was really lost but i think that i mean we started dating right as i started the process of of free song just by sheer coincidence of when we met and whatever but it was like basically right at the beginning of my my journey to actually free solo cap the final two years of like training and doing it.
47:10So she had only dated me through the most focused and intense period of my entire life, basically. The biggest goal. Yeah. The biggest goal in my whole life. Like there's the pinnacle achievement of all of my climbing. Like this is everything. And then I do it. And then, yeah, I mean, I'm sure from her perspective, I'm like a little bit more relaxed, a little more like, you know, and, and it is true that when you let a big goal like that go, either by having done it or, or by walking away from it, because it's not possible for you, for whatever reason. I mean, it does, there is a little bit of a hole left behind where you're like, Oh, like what gets me out of bed now?
47:44Like why, why get up early? Why train all the time? What's my purpose to my mission? Yeah. Or like, why do I care about my diet? If I'm not, if not for some important thing, like, should I just eat dessert all day, every day? You know? So what, when did you, I mean, how long was that phase for you until you got clear on the next purpose? It'd be hard to say because that season, so part of my process actually for free soloing on cap was because free soloing is so psychological, so much of it's mental. I mean, physically I knew I was capable, but it's like the mental side is challenging. And so even though I knew it would be the most important thing I'd ever do in climbing, I didn't want to put it on too high of a pedestal because I didn't want to build it up even higher in my mind than it already was.
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48:26and so in a way to sort of offset that in a way to keep it feeling more normal for myself I tried to just keep my Yosemite season as like one of many things throughout the year so so the season that I free sell at Al Cap I also had an expedition planned to Antarctica that winter it was like my first trip to Antarctica and it was the North Face expedition with the whole team and you know I was just going with people and I didn't even necessarily want to go because I thought it would be too cold. As it turns out. It is too cold. No, actually, it turns out it was one of the best expeditions of my life.
48:59And it was amazing. But at the time, I was like, that sounds crazy. I don't want to go. But that's a different story. But so because I knew I'd be going to Antarctica, I also planned this expedition to Alaska with some other people. Again, it was like someone else's trip. And I was going to go with them because it's a good way to practice the skills for Antarctica. And I'd been there with them before. And we had some unfinished business. We didn't do this thing. But so basically, I had my Yosemite season where I was hoping to freestyle El Cap, but I already had these other trips lined up and these other climbing goals and these partners and like plans because I wanted Yosemite to feel like, oh, I'm using Yosemite to get fit for Alaska and Alaska is getting me fit for Antarctica and it's all just part of the normal cycle of being a professional climber where you go from like one thing to another.
49:40And yes, of course, my goal in Yosemite is way more important than any of those other things, but it makes it feel like it's more normal. Right. And that keeps it from feeling too crazy for me. Too intense, too stressful. Yeah. And so when I did El Cap, like a week later, I went to Alaska and went on a sex position. And as it turns out, it actually was kind of a perfect come down because we had terrible weather. So I spent a bunch of time in my tent. I read a bunch. And after, you know, years of training for El Cap and like several months of intense physical effort. You reflected more. Yeah. Yeah.
50:08Then I was actually, you know, just because of the Alaskan weather, I just got to spend a couple weeks in my tent reading, being like, oh, like chill, you know. but so your question though of like was there a big come down kind of like yeah there was a little bit but there was kind of this natural order of other trips and plans and goals and like you know i mean as a climber you just always have something that you're interested in sure but then it was complicated because then the next year the film came out and then the free solo film i called it my deployment to hollywood sort of like a military deployment yeah because it was basically six months of like non-stop traveling events press interviews promotion non-stop everything and so and i knew it was a once in a lifetime thing so i totally embraced i was like i'm i'm going all in i'm doing everything they tell me to do i'm just i'm i'm here for the experience you know like oh there's bradley cooper again i met him at the last six things too you're like cool because he was touring with a star is born or whatever and you're just like oh bradley you're so handsome it's like like every time you bump into him you're like you're still so handsome you know but i knew that it was like a once in a lifetime thing so every you know the events are fun like i mean yeah like but but it's cool you know it's like crazy stories and you know it's the only time you'll do it so you're just like that's that's fine but then again then you have a crazy come down afterward because you've just spent six months basically living this like insane hollywood lifestyle yeah well it's like high but also kind of low because you're basically just going from airport to venue to hotel to airport to venue to hotel like for months which for me especially as a professional climber is like a complete change for normal lifestyle Yeah, you want to be outdoors.
51:40Yeah, normally I hike to the cliff. I spend the whole day working on some random thing with my partner. And then we hike back and it's all super chill. And then during the Free Solo Film Tour, we're having days where you wake up in New York City. You fly to SF. You drive for an hour. You do an event. You drive back to the airport. You fly again to LA. And then you do another event that night. And you're just like, I'm literally a piece of meat that's being shipped in a can around the country. You're like, this is crazy. But you're also like, what an unusual life experience. I think I had two different days.
52:08like that there were double days where it's like you wake up in chicago you fly to new york you do an event and then you fly to la and you do another event that night and you're like how can you even do that many of you know like you did two premieres on one day yeah not different years necessarily but like screenings or stress things or whatever yeah yeah yeah but like stuff so that was six months yeah it was like six months touring around speaking showing up taking photos maybe maybe it was like five but it was really really long it was like you weren't able to really climb during then i mean i was training in the gym a lot wow quite a bit lifting or you were more like at a rock climbing so any gym you could find in the country you would just go yeah yeah every climbing gym in the country basically you went to yeah yeah wow man so would you ever do that experience again where you're hanging out with i mean for the right thing you know it is fun like it's a crazy experience it's it's cool what was the crazy story that that came out of that in those five there's so many i mean in some ways my wife and i now have a lot of the fun little couple stories like one of the Oscars after party things Mahershala Ali whatever you know the guy I think Green Book I think I don't know I forget if he'd won something or not but he was obviously like nominated and he's a great actor and very handsome and all dapper in this amazing suit with this entourage anyway he was like walking by and he like just shook my hand or something because we had just you know it was just anyway my wife was like holding a bunch of hors d 'oeuvres because we were pillaging all the free snacks and she literally just threw her snacks on the floor so she could be like hello and shake hands with him and she was like so delighted to meet him but it's just like the fun story if she like just dumps all her food so she can be like hello you know it's her one chance to shake hands with Ursula that's fun I don't know just things like that you know random stories you saw Bradley Cooper what six times I mean a bunch because everyone's on the same circuit it's like the directors go to the war the screen actors go to the war the whatever is the the Oscars the BAFTAs the I like presented an award at like the Audio Guild the Academy thing you know just like it's all part of the campaign it's I don't know so you just do what everybody tells you just felt like a piece of meat though huh just being shipped around everywhere basically but i mean it's fine you're just doing what you're told i mean it's like having a job sure but you're like what a weird job did you get paid for that no but they pay for your flights and hotels yeah of course it's all expenses covered and then you know i make some percentage of what free solo made and then free solo was shockingly successful and so then you know so you get a cut of that yeah so it's not it's disingenuous to say i'm can pay because obviously it's all good for me you're helping promote something that could pay you yeah exactly wow and then when you think how well the film wound up doing and then you know i wind up getting corporate speaking offers and things like that like obviously the film doing well has been very good for me and my family and that's all great but the actual day-to-day you're not getting paid you're just like this is a lot like it's crazy well i mean you're not getting paid to climb a mountain either day-to-day i guess well that's true that's true i mean my friends and i often joke that if you if you broke out your pay as a climber by hours of hard labor you know you're getting paid like petty yeah two bucks an hour to carry like a 50 pound backpack of a mountain and you're kind of like this is pretty hard work for not that much money right but it's because you love doing it it's so fun of course yeah i'm curious you've um you mentioned this in free solo but how many people that you've either climbed with or know as climbers have lost their life no i don't know i mean it depends on how wide of a net you cast you between close friends versus uh casual acquaintances and things but you know in the broader community like dozens probably but close friends you know a handful really yeah was there ever a time where there was like did anyone ever lose their life on a climb that you were on ever or an expedition no i don't think so nothing like too too close i mean i've seen a couple terrible accidents like cliffs really where somebody yeah like you hear screaming you run around the corner and they broke their leg or something or uh well a couple things like that no i mean people dying though really like you were there yeah yeah you were i mean it wasn't in your group or was just another group or um different group like some random kids at this climbing yeah yeah oh man what's that like kid fell and uh some of the protection ripped out and he landed on the ground and his head collapsed basically and he died what's that like when you're on a climb and you see and you experience that I mean, yeah, I mean, you know, yeah, it's terrible, but, you know, you're also, you're always sort of rationally aware of the risks involved.
56:29And so, I mean, and this might be one of the things that separates me from some of my friends or family, let's say, because I don't know if my wife feels the same way necessarily. But, you know, I feel like I'm rationally aware of all the risks involved. And so seeing them firsthand is sobering for sure. And very sad. And like seeing his friends is very, you know, like they were, they were all very inexperienced. And so like nobody had any idea how the accident happened or what had happened or why he's dying. And like, it was all terrible. It's terrible for the partners. And, you know, so that's like hard to watch.
57:00But you are sort of like, this is what you've signed up to do. You're like, you know that this is a possibility. Seeing it doesn't make it any less of a possibility. you know like it basically is always on you to mitigate risk as much as possible right man it's just yeah i mean yeah it's pretty intense yeah does something change in your brain or in your heart when you're i guess seeing either a bad accident or seeing someone you know lose their life is something shifting inside of you or are you just saying it's more of like a blessing and a gratitude of like okay this is i have to really make sure i prepare it's another reminder of how difficult and challenging this is well that's the thing i think you can go either way i mean i think you can either deal with those kinds of things by sort of shutting yourself off to it and like inner yourself like numb yourself to it and be like doesn't matter that happens like whatever don't care or you can sort of let it in and be like this is really really sad and there are high consequences in this sport but i love doing this sport anyway and it's still worth it to me you know but i will do my best to avoid things like that happening right yeah i mean in some ways i think that that second option is the slightly more responsible and and sort of the more seasoned response maybe and i think that that's kind of where i probably am now whereas uh i think as a as a younger you know as a early 20s man it's easier to just either shut it out or just be like well they made a mistake and that won't happen to me which is like a little is not really the right call.
58:31What's the biggest loss you've had? Whether it be like an emotional loss or a physical loss? You mean like loss like blow in life or loss like somebody dying? It could just be like a grieving of anything. You know, it could be a physical grieving of someone or it could be an emotional grieving of something. I don't know. I mean, there are the obvious things that come to mind. Like my father died when I was 19 and, you know, like grandparents have all died and like family members have died. But those are kind of like normal grieving in a way where like in some ways that's the natural course of life.
59:05Like my father obviously died much younger than he should have. But it's still sort of natural in a way. You're like, you know, at some point your parents are going to die before you hopefully. And you kind of want them to because it's better for them to die before you than for you to die before them. And so, you know, now as a parent, I'm like, well, I hope I die before my daughter or daughters soon. uh-huh um so i mean that that to me is sort of like natural grieving in some ways i think accidents and climbing accidents are almost harder well even though they're you know in some ways more fair it's like people are taking risks of their lives occasionally they die you're like well that you know they made choices and i mean that's kind of the callous way to look at it but it's still really sad and it's sad for their families and i don't know i've only had a couple like truly close friend climbing partners who have died in accidents really none of them were with me um but but those are sad because you see the impact on the families and you know you're just like you're close to their friends their families you know their circles yeah and you still think about them you're like oh it'd be nice to hang out with that person right now and wow but but i don't know i mean that's kind of the thing with climbing though is that it is harder than you know like i assume that you haven't had a lot of fellow handball athletes die playing handball.
1:00:22Not what I know, yeah. I mean, football's more intense and people get injured every season. Yeah, but still very rare. But yeah, rare. Like almost never die. Yeah, it's rare. No, with climbing, I mean, there is a lot more risk. But then that also gives you more from the sport in some ways. Like I think some of the life lessons you can take from climbing, you can't necessarily get from handball. I mean, with all respect for handball. Because obviously all the lessons around like training and perseverance, like those are all kind of the same. but some of the like managing fear and like the different different levels yeah it's just different things yeah of course yeah you're not like managing mortal peril in the same way it's different and like grieving friends and and like being actually afraid for your life though it's funny because being afraid of failure or being afraid of like pressure of competition feels the same as being afraid for your life in a lot of ways in some ways you know and depending on the person and depending on how neurotic they are and like how stressed they are it can be worse so what about the biggest emotional loss you've had or thing you've had to grieve i don't know i mean obviously relationships you know like failed relationships and things and particularly when you're younger and it just all seems like it matters more but um but in the grand scheme of the thing none of those are that big deal do you feel like you have a bigger heart because of the things you've been able to overcome?
1:01:43Do you have like an expansion of giving and receiving love? I think I started from a very stunted place. Really? And with steady nurturing through my wife and now having a family and good community and good relationships now my stunted cold heart has grown to like a below average size. Really? Yeah, for sure. Do you think it's hard for you to feel loved? Yeah. Why do you think that is? Partially because I think they're you know, billions of people on earth and it's all slightly arbitrary. You know, it's like if I didn't exist, then the people around me would love other people and they would be fine.
1:02:20You know, like life would go on. Wow. I mean, it's a slightly callous approach to it. But I also think a very true approach. But when your wife is trying to, you know, show appreciation or love on you, are you able to receive that? Or do you feel like it's kind of distant? We joke sometimes that she's just shoveling dirt into a bottomless hole for her whole life. Or shoveling love into a deep, dark hole. But the thing is, she's an incredibly caring person. And she's, you know, she's accepted a challenge in life. Oh, my God. Yeah. And, I mean, it might not be quite that bad. Yeah, yeah, of course.
1:02:54especially now like with having kids and you know having more you're growing a little bit that's the thing i think the stunted darkness is growing a little why do you think it's hard for you to receive love i don't know i mean it doesn't matter to receive love yeah doesn't it feels great to receive love doesn't it well i wouldn't know the bottomless dark holes like you know i don't know i mean i guess but do you really believe it even if somebody you know man like even if someone's very genuine and they're like oh but i really love you like but do you really because you know if or when i disappear obviously yeah okay if someone disappeared doesn't i guess it doesn't matter they can still love you if you're not around you know if if you died your wife can still love you for the rest of her life your kids can still love you but i actually kind of think that she wouldn't because i think she'll basically just forget because that's that's human and i don't think people forget if they have a great relationship with them no but even still you lose the details I mean, that's physiology, you know, it's like you just, it gets fuzzy.
1:03:51You have memories, you have photos, you have videos, you have memories. I know, but actually that's the interesting thing with memories. I mean, this is kind of a whole aside, but I mean, so I've kind of noticed this being a professional climber. So a lot of my life is on video and in photo and whatever. And there are a lot of climbs that I don't even really remember that well now, you know, 15 years later or something. and so your memory starts to be supplanted by the video or by the photo or by whatever the the uh the external memory is you know like the thing that you're supposed to remember and you're like i don't actually remember the experience like i don't know what i was feeling i mean i know what the article said or what the book says or you know what the video shows or whatever but i'm like i don't remember you don't remember the feeling yeah i mean it's been a long freaking time so i yeah all that to say though i think that a lot of memories what people think of as a memory is actually just the story that they've told themselves about it over and over.
1:04:41I agree to that. Or the story that they've told to others about it over and over. Sure. And so it's not like they actually remember it. They just keep reminding themselves of like this terrible thing that happened to them or this thing that they lost or whatever. But if they stop reminding themselves, they'll just forget. Yeah. For better or for worse. You know, like in a lot of cases, that's probably better if it's something you've lost. So when do you feel the most loved? When you're doing what? Or experiencing what? When do you feel that? I don't know if you've ever talked about love before.
1:05:10Yeah, totally. No, no, it was fine. Well, okay, so like last night I was at a good friend's birthday party. It was like kind of a nice little sort of family affair, like maybe four couples all hanging out, all like very close friends, all part of the climbing community. And not that I felt loved per se, but everybody was having a very nice time and it's like everyone's genuinely laughing and like having a great connection. And I was like, oh, this is nice. Like this is real community. Like this feels good, you know? So you felt loved? Yeah, you feel like the, you feel the community, the niceness in the air, you know, where you're like, oh, this is a true group.
1:05:42Like, that's nice. It's a good moment. It's a good feeling. Yeah, totally. Did you feel loved as a kid? Did you feel like you had good community and connections and friends and family that you felt loved? I mean, I objectively did have good community and good family and, you know, I was like raised in a comfortable, safe environment. Like, basically, it all should have been fine, but I don't know if I necessarily felt loved. Really? You know. who influenced you more mom or dad it's hard to say in um i mean it's hard to say because my dad died when i was 19 and so you know it's it's like hard to remember a lot of ways i'd say like in terms of worldview and things now it's like it seems clear that i'm more like my mother maybe but it's also because i don't know my father as well because you know i've never got to know him as an adult but um but in some of the very obvious ways my father had a bigger influence because he was the one who actually took me to the climbing gym all the time and and like drove me to youth competitions and he wasn't a climber but he just you know it's kind of like being a little little league dad or something he was just supportive so he was really supportive he showed up to your he took you to all the events yeah yeah he was encouraged he was really uh what are what are love languages and things you know he was really good with time like he was happy to like give quality times but not even necessarily quality because quality time would be like oh you're really having a moment together but i just mean like the showing up and like doing the thing for you like maybe acts of service service yeah yeah yeah yeah so he was like good at that kind of thing which i think as a kid you kind of take for granted because like well somebody has to take me to the gym but now as an adult i'm like man he took me to the gym a lot a lot of time yeah that's a lot of time at the climbing gym you know and especially for i mean he was like a middle-aged professor who's like belaying me.
1:07:23He would climb a little bit mostly just because I would need to rest every once in a while. So then he would like climb something because he's there. So he dedicated a lot of time actually. Yeah. Yeah. He would belay me like on four or five routes and then he would do one and then I would do like four or five and he would do one and you know. It's pretty cool. Yeah. Yeah. No, it's exactly. And that's the kind of thing that now as an adult, I can see that like that's, that's a big thing on his part. He committed. Yeah. He had a lot of commitment. What was the biggest lesson that your dad taught you?
1:07:48Well, I don't know. I mean, I think it's that, I think it's like the showing up is the most important thing in some ways. Wow. Which, I mean, if we're really going deep on relationship stuff, I mean, this is a common point of contention in my marriage is that to me, actions are the most important thing. You know, my wife like wants more words of appreciation. Words of affirmation. Yeah, words of affirmation. Yeah, yeah, whatever. So, I mean. That physical touch. Yeah, yeah. I think we both are fine with that. But like, I think she wants a little more like telling and I think that doing is more important.
1:08:19the action yeah i'm gonna show up because i'm like anybody can say the right things but doing the right things i think i think the same thing man i think it's like who's gonna commit and take the actions you know yeah well that's that's the cynic in me because i'm like anyone can say you know like a good actor you know since we're in la it's like you see all the billboards like any good actor could convince you that they just absolutely adore you but it doesn't mean anything unless they actually show up and and do the things yeah do what they say they're gonna do yeah like for years right consistently yeah what do you wish you got to say to your dad that you never got to say is there anything oh it's hard to say i mean if we're really getting into it i mean my parents got divorced the year before he died basically like when i graduated high school and they'd sort of been like staying together for the kids which in retrospect was a terrible idea and they should have gotten divorced when we were like seven i know that and so it's kind of it's unfortunate because i felt like i never got to know him as a as his own like thriving adult because he was in this relationship like basically their whole situation like didn't seem that healthy and so now you know i'm like oh they should have just gotten divorced when we were kids and both been happy yeah and then both been like happy independent adults and we could have actually gotten to know them as real people instead of having this kind of like dour you know like non-person yeah because in the year that after he got divorced he was sort of starting to thrive in his own you know he was like kind of psyched on his own stuff and like doing his thing but then he died and so you know it's hard to really know him because right yeah because the things i hear from all my family members on his side of the family you know things like before i was born so we're like oh it's really different than the person that i knew is there anything you wish you could have said to him that you didn't get to or no no man last night like since we're gonna last night uh one of my wife's really good friends we listened to a really long audio message from her that uh she had just had a family member die but she left this long audio message that was basically this very heartwarming story about how she had just crafted this long message to to the family member telling him how much they meant to them and blah blah and then basically the person was like dying the next day oh man and uh and his his daughter had the opportunity to like read this message to him before he died and so so this this friend you know was incredibly it was all like i was like man this is a lot it was like a straight up hallmark cards sort of yeah it was deep i was like wow but i also was like wow that's kind of incredible because she was so much more at peace with the death knowing that anything she ever possibly could have wanted to say she managed to say to the person before they died and they died knowing everything that wow everything that they meant to to this person you know i was like oh that was my takeaway was like man if you know if you have any friends like you should just say the thing before and that's why your wife wants words of affirmations yeah exactly but at least when she does she'll know that i was always there for her i didn't tell you how i felt but i showed you yeah but that's exactly exactly i didn't tell you enough but i did try to show you but you just said right there you should say to the people you care about i know i know but it's you know yeah it's hard harder to do do you feel like that's one of your greatest mountains to climb right now is to actually step into that or is that just maybe i mean that's probably a big part of being a good dad so but we're not quite there yet thankfully at this point they're not old enough yet for the yeah communicate that way yeah right now the big challenge this morning the diaper change had poop going all the way up the back through multiple layers of clothing no and destroyed everything not destroyed but right right so it was everywhere yeah but then trying to take off the dirty shirts you know usually you get poop in the hair, you get poop in everywhere.
1:11:57I was like, this is, this is, yeah. Wow, man. Parenting is at a different phase right now. It's like poop everywhere. I'm not, I'm sure you'll look back at the memory and it'll be better than the moment. But, um, we were talking about before we started rolling about, um, your biggest challenge. And you were kind of mentioning like right now, and you were kind of mentioning what to do when you were underperforming. And you said, you feel like you're failing a lot or not living up to an expectation. Yeah, not necessarily failing, but yeah, just not performing at the level that you think you should.
1:12:30So why do you think that's happening in your life right now? It's hard to say. I mean, you know. And your failure is still like the greatest in the world at what you're doing. No, not the greatest in the world, but I'd say my sucking is still, you know, pretty good, but it's way worse than what I think it should be. Mm-hmm. You know, it's hard to not. Why do you think that's happening? I don't know. No. I mean, it's a long, long sordid tale, you know. Like, I did an expedition this summer where a partner and I bicycled 2 ,000 miles to Alaska and then climbed some mountains. But it was basically a two-month trip.
1:13:07And over the course of the trip, I kind of got grounded to us. Like, I was kind of worked. You were worn out. Yeah, I was, like, worn out. 2 ,000 miles is a long time. Yeah, but he was doing well. And for whatever reason, though, I just wasn't really recovering and, like, was kind of, like, getting worse and worse. you know typically with a lot of exercise if you get enough rest you know you respond to it and you get better and better yeah in this case i was kind of just getting worse the whole time and then i came back and it was kind of sucking for a month or two but that was kind of understandable because i was like i'm digging back out of this hole and and the expedition was successful you know we did the things we were trying to do and it was cool and it'll be a film on for national geographic as well and so you know it's like it's fine like i don't mind having a trip like that where you get grounded dust if you do the things that you set out to do and then i don't mind spending some time recovering like that's totally understandable but i spent the time recovering and then and then since then i've just never quite you know i keep having like moments where i feel about as good as i think i should be and then it kind of disappears again i keep having really glimpses of like like physically or mentally or yeah physically but i feel like the mental side follows the physical as a professional athlete especially because if you just can't do the thing that you want to do you know i mean even doing like a podcast like this is like basically you know it's the school of greatness but what if you're not great then then what do you do should i just like walk out right now just give up yeah because for the last couple weeks i haven't been that great or like last couple months i haven't been that great so i'm like should i just go right i've had those seasons where i'm just like tired or maybe i've just worked too hard and i feel like i'm not able to be as present or at the top of my game but i was telling you before yesterday was our 11 year anniversary of the show where every week for 11 years the show has come out that is that is and i I think also, you know, you've been doing this for 20 plus years.
1:14:51It's like you're not always going to win every game or be the best every time and every climb or every interview. It's not always going to be my greatest performance. But I think the consistency over time is a level of greatness. Even if you didn't want to do it that day, even if it was a subpar performance. But so that's the whole tough thing as a self-coached climber is that. so I agree consistency and just showing up and that's normally my approach for for training and things like even on the days where you kind of suck like you just grind out the but if you're digging yourself into a hole you have to know when to put down the shovel and like get out of the hole true you know or rest yeah exactly and that's the challenge when when you're like am I sucking because I need more rest or am I sucking because I need to train harder and you just don't know which path you need to take and they're totally divergent paths that lead to totally different things.
1:15:44And so I think that recently I've been sort of on the, I've been doing a little bit of both, you know, and maybe not quite nailing either. And I'm not sure which is the right. She'll spend a couple of weeks training harder and you're like, that's not working. Let me take a week to relax, recover more. That's not working. Yeah. Like what do I do? A little bit of both. Yeah. Like, you know, we're like training more, but then the whole family got sick and like the baby's sick and you're up in the middle of the night and then you're sort of like, well, that winds up being like a week or two of rest as it turns out like quote unquote rest.
1:16:11Yeah. But like not heavy training load and then you're sort of like well now i'm doing both of them poorly like i don't know which is better i'm not really recovering and i'm not really double training and then baby number two shows up kind of soon and so then you're just i'm just going to assume that that's not going to help you're not doing either again yeah exactly but in a way i mean i'm not that stressed because i know long term like this time next year i'll probably be climbing pretty well and and or at least climbing the same like i'm not too stressed in the long term but it's just slightly frustrating when you want to when you feel like you could be doing better and you're not sure why why you're not there so in a in a year and a half two years you'll be you'll be 40 right yeah so i'm 38 so yeah in two years you'll have a you know a two-year-old and a four-year-old essentially um maybe another i don't know but you'll have at least two years yeah yeah we'll have two daughters and you will have lived 40 years of your life and you will have accomplished so many incredible things that most climbers will never accomplish ever.
1:17:13What do you feel like the next 10 years will be if you could go into the future and think about the vision you might have? What do you see your life looking like? This is, I mean, this is an interesting question. And I've been thinking about this a little bit because I think this is an, I mean, I want to keep doing things that I'm proud of and climbing. And partially because I want my daughters to know someone who's proud of the things that they're doing and not proud of the things that they did you know what I mean it's like kind of a subtle distinction interesting but I don't want my daughters growing up with somebody who's like oh I used to do all these cool things as opposed to like I want them growing up with somebody who's excited to do cool things in the future and is like working on projects and because I think that kind of motivation that excitement to like work on projects and like get up early and train and like have things that you're passionate about I mean I think that's important yeah and that's certainly something that I'd love to pass on to my kids in like a healthy way not like not like a psycho pushing them away.
1:18:04But like in a way for them to see someone who's fired up and like living their best life. And so, you know, I mean, I am very proud of all the things that I've done, but I think it's important to have just as many things that I want to do in the future, because I think that's hopefully part of parenting, you know, like within reason, like I don't need something all encompassing, like, oh, cap, let's say, because that would probably take me away from family too much. But I can have goals that I am passionate about that I try very hard for and that I can still be around my family enough for. Do you have anything on your mind of what that will look like?
1:18:36Not, I don't know, nothing big right now. I mean, this year I have a couple sort of like climbing travel, like destination goals where like my family and I will go to a place and climb for a while. They aren't like objectives in terms of performance. It's more like to go to a place together and like have a good time climbing. Yeah, yeah. Like hopefully be able to do something cool while I'm in the places, but it's not like, it's not the main goal. Not performance thing, yeah. Yeah. um but yeah so in some ways i see this as sort of an in-between year i mean and also in the big picture if i'm kind of like oh the five year the first five years of my children's life i was a little underproductive as a climber i'm like that doesn't seem crazy yeah like that's fine and as long as i think that i can come out of that again at some point like if you just told me you know you will underperform for five years while you raise your kids at the beginning i'd be like that's totally fine it'd be like going to college or something where you're like okay well I'm going through this phase of life because I know it'll set me up better for the future like because I know I want a family long term yeah but I I just want to know that I'll be okay again eventually and you could go back and do do these things again yeah like I don't mind the grinding and training and like all that stuff if I think that eventually it'll it'll pay off or like it'll it'll work you know but I think that the challenge is when you start second guessing like is this the wrong path like am I doing this all wrong this is a waste of my time tell me about Arctic Ascent because the trailer of this thing is just blew me away tell me what the expedition is was and you know what we should look forward to as we watch this series.
1:20:07Yes Arctic Ascent is a three-part series on National Geographic comes out kind of soon and it was an expedition to Greenland a six-week trip to Greenland to remote part of eastern Greenland and it's sort of an interesting combination of of climbing adventure we went and we climbed these two cool walls one of which was a 4 000 foot sea cliff like sticking straight out of the ocean it was kind of insane um so you have to take a boat to get the actual boat to the base you hop out of the boat and then you climb 4 000 feet straight out of the fjord it's pretty cool that's crazy yeah i'd never done anything like that either it was uh how cold is it it's pretty freaking chilly it was a north facing wall in greenland so it wasn't warm winds are just blowing up against you the waves are crashing against the wall well the waves are crashing this wall 4 000 feet below you that's crazy man yeah it's really far yes it's like bigger now cap bigger than you know it's a big big wall so no one had ever climbed it not that wall no which is yeah that's part of the the excitement for you to go try something that no one had ever tried yeah exactly i mean it's it's probably one of the biggest unclimbed rock walls in the world like that because there aren't that many 4 000 foot vertical walls, but as you can imagine.
1:21:17So, I mean, how do you prepare mentally and emotionally for something that you've never done and no one else has ever done? Well, I have done a lot of other first ascents and I have climbed a lot of other mountains and I've climbed things of similar size and scale in different places. And so, you know, it's true that it's the first ascend I've never ever climbed that rock. And as it turns out, that rock posed some unique challenges that I'd never quite encountered before. I had like this crazy swirly rock that varied in quality and it was actually, it turned out it was pretty hard. But, you know, you just draw on all your experiences having done other things that are somewhat similar.
1:21:52And in that case, you also have a team. And so you're also drawing on the experiences of the team. And the team members were also incredibly skilled professional climbers. And so, you know, between everybody, you assume that somebody has what it takes. Wow. Or at least the team has what it takes. Do you think you could do it alone without, I mean, maybe having the support of people with ropes or whatever, but without other rock climber professionals kind of coaching and working with you, could you have done it alone? Maybe, but it'd be harder and it'd be less fun. And it wouldn't be the experience that you want necessarily.
1:22:27It'd be a lot harder because sharing the psychological burden is a big part of it. Really? Because when you're looking up at a 4 ,000 foot wall and you're not sure if it goes, like every move is uncertain. You know, we're like, am I going the right way? am I? And so it's nice to be able to share that uncertainty with other people and like, let them think about it a little bit. Let them make some decisions, like trust them to take the lead for a while and just take the rope up higher. And then you can take over again. So you'll pass the lead is where you're saying. Yeah. You alternate leads. And so it allows you to relax while the other person's leading.
1:22:57And in this case, on that particular climb, I was mostly climbing with this woman, Hazel Finley, who's a British climber, who's a professional climber, very, very good at that kind of thing. and so whenever she's leading it allows me to totally relax and sort of recover and eat and drink and chill really and she's incredibly stressed because she's leading and trying to figure out how to stay safe and where we should go and like what direction but while she's stressing you can just sit down there being like ah really yeah you mean you're like you're you're you're hooked in you're just kind of dangling yeah i'm hooked in and i'm feeding the rope out to her i'm like i'm belaying i'm holding on the ropes i'm like protecting her but i'm also sort of eating drinking and relaxing and then just like watching the icebergs go by on the fjord you know it's like you're just chilling because the thing is as soon as she finishes her section of the climb and secures the rope then she brings you up and then it's your turn to lead again oh man and then when you're leading it's suddenly stressful because you're like should i go left should i go right like left looks more dangerous but right looks like it might get blank and then we'd have to backtrack and you know you're constantly like making all these route finding decisions of like which way it looks harder which way it looks easier but you're always dealing with incomplete set of information because no one's been there so nobody knows so you look up and you're like well it looks easy but what if it isn't like then you're screwed wow how long how long did that whole climb take well that particular 4 ,000 foot wall only took 10 days or so of the trip but that's partially because we were just sort of cramming it in at the end um so climbing it took 10 days no like we pushed the ropes higher up and it rained a lot and it was crazy and then the the final ascent took us two days but it's because we'd already gone halfway up the wall and so it So you were sleeping on the wall?
1:24:30Yeah, I was sleeping on the wall. So you were on the wall for 10 days? No, we were at a base camp nearby, and then we were on the wall for two. Okay, gotcha. We'd been pushing higher and higher up the wall, and then finally we did the whole thing in two days. So you'd push up, then come back down to base camp, push a little higher. And part of that's the nature of filming and everything to make a TV show is that you kind of have to do things like that to make sure that the camera people can be in position and things. Wow. But that trip, though, was a six-week expedition, and we'd climb this other wall where we also camped on the wall.
1:24:59And we ski traversed across this ice cap and we did a bunch of science. And I mean, when you're talking about, you know, purpose and things like that, I mean, in some ways, this expedition is is exactly that evolution. Because we had this scientist, Heidi Sylvester, who's amazing. She's this really passionate glaciologist. She's French. And so she was there doing a bunch of science experiments for for different universities around the world. Basically, all sort of climate science, like glaciology related. because Greenland is one of the most important places in the world for climate change. And, you know, that's the kind of thing that makes a trip like that feel a little bit more worthwhile.
1:25:37It's not just you going after some adventure, but it's you working on research that you care about. Yeah, and working on something that actually matters for the world. You know, it's like I can make a show where it's like, oh, we're just climbing this extreme rock. and you're like, that's cool. But realistically, I'd rather just do that by myself and not make a show about it. You know, it's like, if you're going to put something on television, it may as well be somewhat useful and it may as well, you know, highlight important parts of the world and bring knowledge around things that matter. And so, you know, the Greenland ice sheet is melting.
1:26:09The ice sheet is the big part in the middle. Like when you look at a map of Greenland, it's like the whole center of Greenland is ice. And if the Greenland ice sheet melts, you know, raises sea levels by something like 20 feet, which affects hundreds of million people around the world. It's like, you know, half the major cities in the world are on the coast. It's like, you know, New York and London and Tokyo, like all these places, you know, underwater, Buenos Aires, I don't know. And so, but nobody thinks about Greenland. You know, like nobody thinks about the Greenland ice sheet. Not many people live there too.
1:26:38Yeah, nobody lives there. I mean, in Greenland, some people live on the... Yeah, but even Greenland, like so few people live in Greenland. And so, you know, I think that in some ways that makes a trip like that feel a lot more worthwhile. Wow, that's cool. And that's part of your foundation too, right? Well, the work my foundation is doing is unrelated to something like this expedition. But yeah, I have a foundation that supports solar projects around the world and has been doing so for the last decade or so. Wow, that's cool. What made you want to get into that? Same idea, just trying to do something useful.
1:27:11Yeah. You know, just feeling like, like climbing is fun and I love doing it, but ultimately climbing is just for you or, you know, just for me. It's like, it's like a selfish endeavor in some sense. Yeah. Yeah. Or it's a person like, yeah, people always say climbing is selfish. Like climbers like to say, oh, like climbing is selfish. And I don't, I don't really love that because like any human activity is sort of selfish. Sure. Sure. Or most human activities are. But yeah, climbing is generally a self-driven pursuit. and it's nice to do something slightly more useful in the world yeah with the foundation it kind of came about because you know and i'm sure you can relate to being given all kinds of interesting opportunities that are fun and you don't want to turn them down but you also don't totally need them because your livelihood is already made i was living in a van i'm totally comfortable i'm doing the things i want to do i'm having a great time i'm living my best life and if somebody offers you like a tv commercial thing and you're like i'd like to do it it's fun it's crazy money for like doing almost no work but you're kind of like why do that if you don't need to and the foundation was a nice way to say yes to the fun opportunities but then use that for something useful in the world that's cool and so um how long were you living in the van for uh like 15 years or something 15 years later i lived in this really small ford conline for uh like a van you can't stand up in for nine years i think and then i lived in a dodge pro master for another five-ish or six-ish.
1:28:35How much was the, those two, uh, cars? How much did they cost? Yeah. The first one I think was, uh, I think it was 10 grand. 10 grand. You lived in that for nine years. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I think so. That's crazy. And then the first one, uh, I went through three different build outs in it. And the first build out my uncle and I did with random wood, he had around a shop that was just leftover. So literally the van costs, you know, yeah, 10 grand. And then I lived in it for several years. And then I redid the interior a couple of times as I got a little more wow yeah you got a couple dollars here and there exactly yeah so i spent another like five grand redoing the interior oh yeah yeah it was big big money and then the second time i splurged buying a new pro master a van that i could stand in like nice with like a little like faucet or like a bathroom well yeah so the van was just new and nice and that was like 30k or something and then the build that was probably i don't know another 10 or 20.
1:29:25so how long did you live in that one another five six years wow and then that one i would have kept living in but i actually crashed it um sadly i rolled it which is a total botch and then um but then coincidentally we found out the mom was pregnant right after that so we were kind of like well we need something different anyway because it doesn't have any seats so what did you get a bus no now we know we have a longer van a longer van yeah still still like a van that you can camp in but um with your daughter yeah yeah we've camped with her several months you live in the van still or do you no we live in a house but now we go to yosemite for a month or two every year with the with the family yeah with babies wow so you've upgraded to a house yeah i live in a house and then and also we've upgraded the van and yeah both yeah now it has kids seats so 15 years man in a van almost yeah yeah for by choice because you were like i want to be able to travel on a remote i don't want to have a lot of possessions yeah maybe it was like 12 or 13 really like in the van because we bought the house that one it's been a steady transition where we're in the house more i mean especially with kids now we're in the house a little more wow though i wouldn't be surprised if as the kids grow up a little bit we can be in the van more again that's cool man but having infants it's like it's just having the routine and nap time it's just easier with the house yeah what's the greatest lesson you learned living in a van for 12 years that you just don't need that much stuff i mean i think that's the main thing it's like you just don't need stuff i mean you want to do whatever you want to do in your life.
1:30:56Just focus on doing that thing and you don't need any of the extra stuff. I mean, I still have that problem with my wife all the time. She has decorations and things. I'm like, why does this exist? What is this? You know, like a throw pillow. We don't need it. It's called a throw pillow because you throw it in the trash. You don't use it for anything. Decorative pillows drive me insane. Stuff that doesn't have any function. No value. Not even as value, but if you don't use it all the time. I just don't want to be a slave to my stuff. like you don't want to be like moving your stuff around you know the thing about living in a van is that you have very few things and it's all the stuff that you need like it's only in the van because you use it all the time you spend your time on the things you want to do and not i guess managing things and stuff yeah you know it's just like a simpler lifestyle that's devoted entirely to the thing that you want to do i mean the thing with being in a van is that it is fundamentally uncomfortable you know like you don't have a shower you don't have a bathroom you don't have whatever and so it is harder living it's like colder you're more exposed the elements it's like you're living in a box parked on the side of the road a lot of the time so it's not that comfortable but it means that you're totally focused on whatever you're in the van for you know it's like either you're there to go hiking or they go back right you know in my case i'm always there to go climbing but it's like you're there to climb so you climb you know like on rest days you go scrambling because it's like there's not that much to do in your van right right it's like you just wind up being totally focused on the thing that you're doing.
1:32:19Wow. That's cool, man. It's a cool lifestyle. It's a very intentional lifestyle. Very intentional. And I think that that kind of intention can be brought to normal life. Absolutely. Yeah. Well, we can watch the show. It's Nat Geo launching February 4th on Disney Plus, right? Arctic Ascent with Alex Honnold. And I'm excited for this, man. The trailer, again, looks incredible. So congrats on this. It's going to be a lot of fun. How else can we support you or follow you besides checking out the show and checking out your foundation? Yeah, I mean, you can go to honnoldfoundation.org, see the work that my foundation is doing with solar projects around the world.
1:32:56I mean, anybody can follow me on any social platform, just Alex Honnold. I've got a couple final questions for you, but this has been inspiring, so I appreciate your time, Alex. This is a question I ask everyone at the end of my interview is called the three truths. It's a hypothetical question. Imagine you get to live as long as you want to live, but it's the last day you've accomplished everything. You've experienced life. You've learned to, um, you know, share words of affirmation with your wife eventually, you know, all these seven hundred and fifty. Exactly. It's taken a while. Everything you want to create, you know, you, you've lived a great life from this moment until the end of time, but it's the last day for you and for whatever reason you have to take everything you've ever created with you so this interview is gone books you write the movies you've been in anything all the social media posts that you love putting out there they're gone however you do get to leave behind three things three lessons that you leave to the world i like to call it three truths what would those three truths be for you do you think man this is all we would have to remember you by i just don't i think i think if i was at the end of my life and i was content i would just go i don't know if i'd have any truths so i think if you wipe the rest of the slate clean it's just like i just don't think that i mean to me i think that the whole but if people had they wanted to remember you by something and they could only remember three things that you learned and experienced and you were able to share those things what would those three things be do you just go big with an exclamation i use that as a i sign things that way whenever you when you have to like sign things at events but it's kind of also one of my favorite things now just go big and just like go for it you know you can sort of take whatever lesson you want from it but it's like do the thing you know like try but i think that also that's that just sums up so much of i've seen just go big go big one truth yeah that's my one truth go big okay i kind of think so because I just think to get into other truths requires too much nuance and subtlety and like, you know, the richness of a life.
1:35:04And I just don't know if you can distill that down to it. Just be like, if everything else is being wiped, you just step away and you're just gone. That's fine. But this goes back to everyone's replaceable. You know, I'm like, if my whole life gets erased, like there'll be somebody else leading an awesome life. You know, like all the things that I've learn from climbing somebody else could learn from unicycling or whatever other activity you know it's like i think that human lives in many ways are sort of interchangeable you know like we can all learn how to lead good lives in different ways you know like somebody can devote their entire life to their garden and still learn all the same things that i have in my life about like experiencing hardship and trying hard and like overcoming and persevering like anybody can learn that however yeah sort of like i don't know what would be one extra thing you leave behind for your for your daughters if you could share a truth with them daddy loves you it's my my i don't know i think that's probably the i mean if you're gonna leave your child one thing that's probably the most important thing like you are loved i guess that's beautiful man that's a good one honestly that's beautiful man we'll see if i can manage that when uh when the time comes oh man that's beautiful um before i ask the final question i was i want to acknowledge you, man, for what a life you have lived and an intentional life on the things that you wanted to pursue and are still pursuing.
1:36:29But again, living a life in a van essentially for 12, 13 years, very intentional to pursue something you care about the most. I just want to acknowledge you for going big, like going for it and consistently going for it. But I also want to acknowledge you for allowing yourself to evolve at this new season of life. You know, having kids, raising a family, being in a relationship, and allowing yourself to also evolve. Like, you've been going big, but you're also evolving with it as well. And I think it's really inspiring that people can have both love in their lives, relationships, but also be pursuing their dreams at the highest level, even if no one else has done that.
1:37:10So, it's really cool what you've done, and I just want to acknowledge you for that uh for this moment yeah of course that's something actually that my wife has always pushed you know she's this this false contrast between like doing rad things and being in a good relationship which i think you're often portrayed that way in in media is like you can either be alone doing something rad or you can be in a happy relationship my wife is always like why don't you do the rad thing in a happy relationship yeah and uh and like basically from the very beginning of our relationship she's always kind of been steadfast and like Like, why don't you just do something hard while being well-adjusted in a good relationship?
1:37:44And it's funny because until we got together, I was like, is that an option? I kind of thought you needed the angst and the turmoil and the like... Suffering. Yeah, exactly. The loneliness. Yeah, the dark artist. And now being with her, I'm like, oh, yeah, okay. I guess you can actually just have a really nice life and still do hard things, but just do it with a big smile. I'm like, it is kind of a better way to go. It's a way better way to go. And support and friendship and collaboration and all that stuff. Final question, Alex, what's your definition of greatness? I mean, I think I'd just go with this sort of standard definition of like doing hard things, like achieving things I haven't done before.
1:38:22And I mean, I know that I should take a more inclusive, you know, just like living a good life and all that. But I'm like, no, I think of greatness as doing something challenging that hasn't been done before. I hope today's episode inspired you on your journey towards greatness. Make sure to check out the show notes in the description for a rundown of today's show with all the important links. And if you want weekly exclusive bonus episodes with me as well as ad-free listening experience, make sure to subscribe to our Greatness Plus channel on Apple Podcast. If you enjoyed this, please share it with a friend over on social media or text a friend.
1:38:55Leave us a review over on Apple Podcast and let me know what you learned over on our social media channels at Lewis Howes. I really love hearing the feedback from you and it helps us continue to make the show better. And if you want more inspiration from our world-class guests and content to learn how to improve the quality of your life, then make sure to sign up for the Greatness newsletter and get it delivered right to your inbox over at greatness.com slash newsletter. And if no one has told you today, I wanna remind you that you are loved, you are worthy, and you matter. And now it's time to go out there and do something great.
From the publisher
Alex Honnold is history’s greatest ever climber in the free solo style, meaning he ascends without a rope or protective equipment of any kind.
Above about 50 feet, any fall would likely be lethal, which means that, on epic days of soloing, he might spend 12 or more hours in the Death Zone.
On the hardest parts of some climbing routes, his fingers will have no more contact with the rock than most people have with the touchscreens of their phones, while his toes press down on edges as thin as sticks of gum.
Just watching a video of Honnold climbing will trigger some degree of vertigo, heart palpitations, or nausea in most people, and that’s if they can watch them at all. Even Honnold has said that his palms sweat when he watches himself on film.
In this episode, Alex shares the unique mindset he brings to some of the most incredible human feats ever accomplished. We chat about his family life, how he receives love, and what it was like for Free Solo to win an Oscar for Best Documentary Feature Film – you won’t want to miss this episode!
His new show on Nat Geo launched February 4th, 2024 on Disney+ - Arctic Ascent: With Alex Honnold
Listen to Alex’s podcast - Climbing Gold
In this episode you will learn
- How to prepare mentally and physically for life’s toughest challenges, such as climbing a 3,000+ foot wall without a rope.
- The importance of navigating fear and maintaining a clear mindset in high-stress situations.
- The impact of mentorship and community in achieving your goals.
- The role of visualization and goal-setting in achieving seemingly impossible feats.
- The benefits of embracing a minimalist lifestyle and focusing on what truly matters in life.
For more information go to www.lewishowes.com/1581
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More SOG episodes we think you’ll love:
Nick Lavery – https://link.chtbl.com/1359-pod
Dean Karnazes – https://link.chtbl.com/1280-pod
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