The State of Style in 2025: Off-Kilter Colors, Loud Luxury, and Preppy Bourgeois

0:10Kat Collings:Welcome to the Who What Wear podcast, your direct line to the designers, stylists, beauty experts, editors, and tastemakers who are shaping the ever-evolving world of fashion. I'm Who What Wear Editor-in-Chief Kat Collings, and today I'm joined by Senior Fashion Editor Anna LaPlaca to discuss her annual State of Style report. short. Every year, Anna recaps all the most impactful trends from the past year and what's really been driving them. Anna is taking us through the shifts in colors, beauty trends, and silhouettes that have dominated our feeds this year, from saturated color combos to a resurgence of 80s influence.

0:46Kat Collings:Of course, we had to get into the current rise of loud luxury as quiet luxury phases out, and we're giving you a guide on where to shop to be ahead of the curve in 2026. It's all coming up on Who What Wear.

1:06Kat Collings:Anna, welcome back to the pod. So good to be back. Thank you for having me on. Okay. Well, I can't wait to talk to you today because we're gathered for your annual state of style story as we wrap up 2025. I wait all year long for this story. It is one of my favorites. You've been doing it for several years now. And for anyone who missed previous installments, let's first orient the audience around what State of Style is and why you write it. Yeah, definitely. So State of Style is this big annual report that I do towards the end of every year. And it's really meant to be a way to zoom out from a lot of the day-to-day styling advice that we do here at Who Aware and give a broader look at what is trending over the past year, and then most importantly, why it is trending.

1:55And as a fashion editor, I am constantly in the weeds looking at what is trending on a weekly basis as I write my stories, but fashion does not exist in a vacuum. And so I think it's really important to discuss that there are so many forces really behind a lot of what's in style right now. What are the colors that are trending this season? What are the silhouettes? What are these quote unquote core aesthetics that we see like emerge seemingly out of nowhere and become viral on our feeds? It's really to look at things from this macro view and really put them in perspective because I think fashion is just so much more than the clothes that we wear.

2:39I always like to mention that infamous Miranda a priestly monologue in The Devil Wears Prada about Cerulean and how Anne Hathaway's sweater choice of that day is so much more than just being a pretty color. It's this carefully selected item that has gone through so much industry vetting to really get to like this place in Anne Hathaway's closet. And so I think this story is very much aligned with that.

3:03Kat Collings:I remember that scene, of course, about the Cerulean and I am hoping that we get some more of those iconic moments in the new movie that's coming out. But it is these trends and what we're wearing, it is so much bigger than just a casual choice. And I'm excited for you to provide some of that context for us. I'm very excited to just really have this story be like a resource because I think so often as fashion people and people who are interested in fashion, interested in clothes, like maybe less so now, but I think in the past it used to be seen as something that was so surface level and And maybe not so serious, but I think maybe this is like the art history background in me.

3:43But I love to think of fashion as being on par with fine arts in a more practical sense that we engage with it every day. But at the same time, it's still subject to all of the larger forces at play in the global landscape. And I feel like it's so symptomatic of what is happening in the world at large. I think you've mentioned before, like the hemline index, right? Exactly. So for anyone listening who maybe doesn't know what that is or just needs a refresher, it's this concept that was created by a professor at Wharton Business School that essentially links skirt lengths with the rise and fall of the economy.

4:18It says that in periods of economic growth, skirt lengths tend to rise and become like, you know, above any mini length. And then they tend to fall and become longer in times of economic downturn or even like recession. And, you know, whether or not that is like a hard and fast rule, I think it's obviously more of like a broad theory. But I love it because it's such a clear example of the way that fashion can be an expression of what is happening in the world around us and can almost help tell a story about how people are feeling that is easier to digest than maybe reading The Economist or something like that.

4:57So listen to this podcast episode. No need to read. Fashion girl news.

5:01Kat Collings:And I just think that this episode will be a wonderful download for anyone who wants to like sound a little smart and current about what's going on in fashion, you know, whip it out at your cocktail party. It's a way to have a little something extra to say beyond just like, oh, I like this brand or I'm wearing this, but the why behind it. That's what we're going to dig into today. Let's talk about some of the big shifts. I feel like in the age of TikTok and these like micro trends and naming everything, it feels like you need to like have a new wardrobe every five seconds. So I love that we are zooming out here and seeing like the larger shifts because there isn't a whole new aesthetic that we need to buy into every few months.

5:36Kat Collings:So I feel like one of the larger shifts and it almost makes you feel late when we talk about it. We're like, oh, we're mentioning quiet luxury still, even though we're saying it's tapering down. These things are such a like bell curve and they take time. So from a zoomed out perspective, quiet luxury, what we saw for the spring 2026 runways, what's going to be coming out this spring, it seems like minimalism is not the goal to strive for. So let's revisit that rise of quiet luxury and explain where it's gone and where we're heading next. I'm so glad you mentioned that, Kat, because another reason why I feel like this story is so impactful is because it really does teach you that trends are so cyclical on such a macro level that they really exist for like years at a time.

6:19Even though things do change season over season, a cut of a pant leg or something like that, but the overall aesthetic does last for so much longer. So quite luxury. It's been such a buzzword for so long. And whenever I think about it, there's just one moment that stands out in my mind. It's this image of Kendall Jenner. And she is walking across the street in New York wearing these beige pleated trousers with a simple white tank top and a white oversized button down shirt worn open over it as a jacket. The photo went completely viral. It was like so simple in its concept. It wasn't innovative at all.

6:58And yet I feel like it launched this entire movement and this entire aesthetic that really was just all about signaling wealth and status through something that was so understated, devoid of any loud embellishment, any logo. Like if you knew, you knew. It wasn't just a basic white shirt she was wearing, but it was the robe. And so at its peak, it was all about emulating the vibe of that one outfit with these neutral tones, beiges, camels, and then pieces that are very classic and tailored, like these blazers and a nice wide leg pleated trouser. These things that are so foundational in a wardrobe.

7:38It's great in that sense. I feel like the whole quiet luxury movement really taught us how to build a foundation of our wardrobe. But I feel like now what we're seeing is so much more emphasis being placed on showing your personality through your personal style and opting for pieces and looks that are so much more expressive and eye-catching really. So that's why I feel like Quiet Luxury is coming to an end. And I don't want to say it's dead completely because I think there's definitely a time and a place for it. But in terms of the goal aesthetic that we as fashion people are looking towards, I do think it's waning.

8:13Kat Collings:We're tired of it. Yeah. We need joy. We need drama. It's funny that you signaled in on that Kendall Jenner moment of 2021. I feel like that was probably pretty early. I also think a crescendo of it was Sophia Richie Grange's wedding and her sort of big TikTok ascent and her cover of Who It Wear obviously was a big part of that as well. 1000%. A wonderful interview. Yeah. I'll just plug my moment there. She was like the poster girl of quiet luxury, I feel like. It's like a slicked back bun. There was a beauty component of it as well, which I think beauty is also such an indicator to hand in hand with fashion.

8:47Kat Collings:There's the lipstick effect where also in down economies, people buy more lipstick and wear more bright lipstick because it's affordable. But I feel like fashion people think of themselves as a step ahead of the curve. So it's like the second anything gets too popular, it's like we got to be on to the next. It's always this craving for something new. But what I think is exciting about what's new right now is that it is more personal style. So it is like choose your own adventure with it and develop your personal point of view, not just like everybody put on the beige trouser. It's funny you bring up beauty too, because I actually feel like now I go online, especially on TikTok, and I see the rhetoric around the slick back bun and the minimal makeup and people are recognizing that will become our generation's version of what looks quote unquote dated in 20 years time.

9:31It's not to say like I still love doing it as well, but I think it is just so emblematic of the moment that we're in. And even the state of style story I did last year touched on this idea of anti-clean girl makeup. And it was sort of the rise of Charlie XCX's brat and a lot of smoky eyes and smudgy, almost club girl style makeup. So I think that's the way that beauty is going. And it's interesting to see it be hand in hand with fashion too.

9:58Kat Collings:Yeah, absolutely. So let's talk about loud luxury, the response to minimal luxury. It's not necessarily like logo mania expressions of luxury we've seen in previous times. What does it look like and what designers are leaning into it? If it's not quiet luxury, what is loud luxury? I think loud luxury is really just all about turning up the volume. I've seen so many designers take this idea and do it in their own unique way. So the first one that comes to mind is Bottega Veneta, who has always made that inchichado weave, their signature, I think is just even doubling down on that with the most recent season.

10:35We had Louise Trotter come in. It was her debut as creative director. And she really put that plus even more of these like really unique, bold textures at the forefront. So it was like this intracciato leather coat that had a white, like feathery, almost like collar necklace just popping out. And then there were also a number of the looks that had these really bold, fringy, colorful pieces, but it was made from this recycled fiberglass. They moved so beautifully. It was like skirts and tops. And those, I think, were really beautiful even to look at. And then we have to speak about the robe, who is just the hallmark of quiet luxury.

11:16It's like quiet luxury final boss. But then we saw in their recent collection that even they were starting to do texture and volume. They had these full volume feather skirts and even sequins popped up in this collection, which were shocking, I think, to a lot of us. Of course, it's still done in that really understated way that is the row. But when I saw that, I was like, oh, wow, the tides are really changing.

11:40Kat Collings:I think of that meme where it's like stick figures at a party and then there's one in the corner, they would say in this one, they don't even know I'm wearing the row or whatever. But now maybe with this new collection stuff, it's just becoming a step more identifiable where It's not just a mystery black turtleneck. It is actually something that has a little more uniqueness to it. Exactly. Now, when you are thinking about investing in a designer item for your own closet, you're sort of also showing the craftsmanship at the forefront, if that makes sense. I think it also probably applies to like beadwork or sequins, like you said, or embroidery.

12:15Kat Collings:You know, I love what you said about it being like visible ways that you see the quality and the craftsmanship and the time that goes into these items. I think it just gives you such a better appreciation for why this thing is at the luxury level that it is. You're getting something you really can't get elsewhere. A lot of these luxury houses that we're speaking about have such a history of craft, especially with this era of new creative directors that we're in right now and seeing them go into their archives and reinterpret the history of craft in a fresh, modern way is I think one of the most exciting parts about the moment in fashion that we're in.

12:48Kat Collings:Yeah, absolutely. And for people that want to take this information and apply it, what would you say are some brands that really encapsulate the moment and would be a good one to invest in? The first one that comes to mind is Dries Van Noten. It's always been the home to beautiful, opulent prints. If you are a print person, this new collection under the new creative director, Julian Klausner, it's really evolved into something that is modern and fresh. And it almost feels more approachable as somebody like me who is really adverse to a print or a bright color. They have a lot of pieces that have this intricate beading.

13:30And there's this one jacket that has like beautiful different colored tassels all over it. They made it into a bag as well. So just love what they're doing right now.

13:39Kat Collings:This is going to sound unhinged because in no world is Dries affordable. but I do feel like within the category of designer brands, you've got the ones that are like kind of stupid expensive, like it's painful. I actually feel like Dries, the price point within the luxury category and designer category is on the more accessible end. There's a gown I really want to buy from them. Oh, which one? I feel like it's purple and then it has this necktie. Is it purple? Yes. Is it polka dot? It has a contrasting like neck little scarf-y moment. From fall 25. I love that you know that. Thanks. If I'm thinking of the same one.

14:12Kat Collings:Well, if anyone wants to go 50-50 and just have joint custody of this gown, let me know, because I think it would be a real hit on the wedding circuit for next year. I love it. Okay. Any other brands? Yes. This is also in the more luxury market as well, but there is this emerging designer from London Libro. And I'm always looking at what they're doing because I think it has a minimalist sort of feel, but they use a lot of tweed. They use a lot of velvet. And this season, And especially they're introducing these gorgeous knitted fringed pieces. There's a fringe trimmed jacket that pairs back to a dress, I believe.

14:50And so that is one that right now is lingering in my cart.

14:56Kat Collings:Yeah, I feel like if you're not looking to go like full tilt, Libero is a good way to get like special pieces that are memorable, but still like versatile and can be one with a lot of things. Love that. Yeah. And then in terms of accessories, I do really like what the brand Le Sundial is doing. They have these tassel pendant necklaces that in the right styling can evoke that maximalist mood we're talking about. Even if what you're wearing is quite simple, that one piece can add like a bit of a flare with texture. So I think that's always a fun way to go. Yeah. Investing in accessories is always like a good cost per wear too and can make a lot of sense in terms of versatility too.

15:34Yeah, totally.

15:35Kat Collings:What about color? We've got some brands in our back pocket now, but I feel like Maximilism goes hand in hand with color as well as print. But let's talk color first. Tell me what's in. The past two seasons, I would say like fall 25, we saw a lot of bright color start to emerge. And then for spring 26, it was like really this explosion, but specifically these color pairings. It was like a lot of color blocking and putting things together that feel a bit unexpected so that they felt very fresh. But I do think the idea of bright color really goes back to the maximalism that we're talking about and just that overall shift.

16:11It's been said that in the past periods of maximalist fashion have been linked to times of financial turmoil. oil. I don't want to say that we're in that right now, but I do think the period of time we're in is maybe just uncertainty and unease. So I'm looking at this new color trend as being like a response to that. It's interesting. The last time we really saw bright color at the forefront of the trend cycle was in the late 2000s, early 2010s. And maybe that was a response to the 2008 financial crisis, who knows? But I would say that's like an interesting way to link the two in terms of what we're actually noticing with color.

16:52I feel like it's all about these off-kilter combinations. We saw this all over. I saw it at Balenciaga. They had this beautiful feathered skirt and almost like a leather t-shirt and it was cherry red and ballet pink together. I think red and pink is such a fun combo. I'm somebody who only wears like one bright color at a time And I think these combos almost make it more accessible or like more approachable saying like, okay, well, if I put this on, it's going to be easier to style because I already know that this other color goes well with it.

17:22Kat Collings:Totally. And if you're more of a like nerd about it the way sometimes I am and you need like a blueprint, there's a book called A Dictionary of Color Combinations. It's a Japanese book that is like$20 or something. And it has just pages after pages of color combination inspiration that work very well for fashion. If you're feeling stumped on it, just reference this book and you can literally like one for one, you know, there's no shame in copying the color combo. Like you don't need to reinvent the wheel or anything like that. I feel like another tip that I always think about for pairing colors together is if you think about these neutral but not colors like burgundy or navy, like they're more approachable colors.

18:00Kat Collings:When you have the urge to just put a tan or a black or a brown with something like say your red sweater, like just put in a navy or like a burgundy or a color like that instead and it'll just take it up a notch while still feeling accessible, I think. I'm also a fan of lavender and the chocolate brown just as we move into fall and winter. Yeah, I love that. I also think we need, need, need to talk about the 80s influence right now. 80s to me is one of the hardest decades to reference well and make it feel easy and modern. So what does it say about 2025 that we're seeing things like a cigarette, trouser, padded shoulders, things like that making a cutback.

18:37Yeah, I know. I'm shocked too, I have to say. The past year or so, we've really had all manner of influences from the 90s and there's been like 70s influences and of course the whole Y2K renaissance. I feel like usually we have one decade that is like the reigning influence of the moment. And for the past few years, we really haven't had that. It's felt like a bit of a

18:59Kat Collings:Grab bag, buffet. A buffet of decades. It is kind of exciting to see that there's one major one coming back into play. And it's almost unanimously the 80s, even just looking at the runways. Chloe, we have to talk about Chloe. We have to talk about Chloe. It's probably the most obvious of the 80s references, right? I mean, there were these acid-toned florals with big voluminous shoulder and even just the leggings as pants of it all. like it was really on the nose, on the nose, but like so fun. And I'm now excited to see those looks out in the wild. I just saw Rachel Sennett, who's the creator of that show, I Love LA, wearing one of the mini dresses to the GQ Men of the Year awards.

19:47And I was like, okay, like seeing it interpreted IRL now is getting me excited.

19:51Kat Collings:Yeah. I feel like you just need a few key people to wear it and then it heats up a little bit and And you're like, okay, I could be on board with this. I also think another tip, you're trying to wrestle a strong shoulder trench or something and you're like, how do I make this work? It's just by pairing it with things that feel completely not that vibe, like a sneaker or something, something that feels modern and can balance out those like heavy 80s referential looks. Like don't do the pointed pump with the bold shoulder blazer. Okay, so we've got the 80s. Prep is another element that just is undeniable in my mind.

20:25Kat Collings:Tell me about preppy fashion. Why are we tapping into this now? Who are the key players? Yeah, it seems like it's just exploded this season. It was truly everywhere. I think in the past, we've really only seen it be expressed by these almost like heritage brands, like a Ralph Lauren, who's always been about prep. And now it's sort of exciting to see these designers who are putting their spin on it who don't necessarily have that like preppy heritage to them. And to me, Celine is absolutely the number one at the forefront of my mind. Their new creative director, Michael Ryder, has been doing such a fabulous job putting almost like our colleague, Kristen, would call it a preppy bourgeois spin.

21:10He used a lot of these printed silk scarves tucked into the neck of a trench coat or like peeking out from the collar of a blazer. And it feels really old school in a way without being stuffy at all. Even down to the shoes, like you think of traditional loafers or like boat shoes. And while those are definitely happening too, I loved the derby shoes that were on the Celine runway from Resort 26 when they were first introduced. And they're sort of these sleek belly flat type of shoes with just a little lace up detail on the top. I feel like they're quite modern and cool. And then Prada. I mean, Prada is such a bellwether for the rest of the industry.