745a Orkney Living; Walkable Cities; Nomads of Europe

26 Sep 2026 · 52 min · 20 chapters

Ask about this episode

Ask anything about it. ChatGPT or Claude reads this page and answers with the times it was said.

Connect VO and ask about every podcast you hear, including the moments you saved. Add to ChatGPT · Add to Claude

In short

Travel with Rick Steves episode covering (1) living in Orkney, Scotland; (2) how European cities are becoming more walkable; (3) how nomadic peoples shaped history and still face pressures today.

Guests and backgrounds

  • Kinlay Francis, Orkney native; runs Orkney Uncovered tours; passionate about Orkney geology and history.
  • Jeff Speck, urban planner and author of Walkable City; advises US cities on walkability.
  • Anthony Satin, historian/author of Nomads, The Wanderers Who Shaped Our World; researches nomadic societies across Europe and beyond.

Key claims

  • Orkney’s identity is strongly Norse/Viking despite being in Scotland; weather shapes daily life.
  • European walkability improves quality of life by reducing car dominance and redesigning streets as “outdoor living rooms.”
  • Nomads persist through oral tradition and mobility; settled empires and governments often try to force them to settle, threatening language and culture.

Notable examples

  • Orkney: Kirkwall, St Magnus Cathedral (12th c.); Scapa Flow (WWI/WWII anchorage); megaliths like Stenness, Brodgar, and Skara Brae; Orkney Council decided autonomy from the UK is too costly.
  • Walkability: Paris car-free center plan, 870 miles of bike lanes, Paris Plage; Barcelona “superblocks”; “shared space” example Pointon (England); congestion/decongestion pricing (London/Stockholm).
  • Nomads: Bedouins under pressure to settle; Kurds as “nation without a state”; Sami reindeer herding; Irish Travelers/tinkers; Roma origins and name debate (gypsies vs Roma); Kurdish tent-life anecdote.

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

Tap a time to open that second in VO

Exploring Orkney: A Unique Location

0:55 to 2:45

Rick shares his experience of visiting Orkney instead of Edinburgh, introducing Kinlay Francis.

“What kind of world do you want to live in?”

Understanding Orkney's History and Culture

2:45 to 4:40

Kinlay discusses the history, culture, and the correct nomenclature of Orkney.

“500 years ago, Norway gave you away as a wedding present?”

Life in Orkney: Community and Lifestyle

4:40 to 6:02

Kinlay shares insights about life in Orkney, including sports and community activities.

“So if you're raising a kid in Orkney, I'm just curious, what would his favorite sports be?”

Political Perspectives in Orkney

6:02 to 8:01

Discussion on Orkney's political orientation and historical significance in the UK.

“He has a particular passion for the geology and history of this group of remote islands, and he shares his passion on tours for his company Orkney Uncovered.”

Exploring Orkney's Natural Beauty

8:01 to 10:10

Kinlay describes the natural landscape and weather conditions of Orkney.

“Yeah, I think it's already in the pipeline with the Orkney Islands Council, the people who run the local government up here.”

Historical Significance: Warfare and Megaliths

10:10 to 12:06

Exploration of Orkney's strategic role during the world wars and its ancient structures.

“Boy, there's a lot to see, and it's fascinating because much of it is World War I and World War II history, and much of it is megalithic from the Stone Age, like stone hens, that kind of thing.”

Dining and Culture in Kirkwall

12:06 to 13:42

Kinlay shares his favorite dining spot in Kirkwall, highlighting local cuisine.

“is to climb through this passageway and come into this domed, corbeled room, which was a tomb so many millennia ago, and it just, it overwhelmed me with wonder.”

Exploring Walkable Cities in Europe

14:00 to 18:51

Discover how European cities have transformed to be more pedestrian-friendly.

“Jeff's book is Walkable City, and in this book, he contends that Americans can and should learn from Europeans to make our cities more pedestrian-friendly.”

Innovative Urban Designs in Paris and Barcelona

18:51 to 24:22

Learn about revolutionary city designs in Paris and Barcelona that prioritize pedestrians.

“He wrote Walkable City, how downtown can save America one step at a time.”

The Concept of Shared Space in Urban Planning

24:22 to 28:00

Understand the shared space concept and how it could change American cities.

“Some have suggested the American equivalent would be that when you get into the middle of a city in your car, your seatbelt pops off and a spike appears on the steering wheel.”
Show all 20 chapters

Creating Walkable Cities

28:00 to 29:20

Learn the key elements that make urban spaces safe, comfortable, and interesting.

“And if you can accomplish those four things, in most American cities, it's just a small portion of the city where that is possible because you have the mixed use to begin with, right?”

Interview with Jeff Speck on Walkable Cities

29:20 to 31:20

Explore insights on enhancing city experiences from the best-selling author of 'Walkable City'.

“Jeff's 2012 book, Walkable City, is the best-selling city planning book of the past decade and is out in an updated edition.”

Transition to Nomadic Cultures

31:20 to 31:55

Discover the significance of nomadic communities in history and their interactions with empires.

“Just enough of a city You'll find web links to our guests in the notes for each week's show at ricksteves.com slash radio.”

Understanding Nomadic Societies

31:55 to 32:55

Gain insights into the characteristics and challenges faced by various nomadic groups around the world.

“Anthony Satin explains, next on Travel with Rick Steves.”

The Role of Nomads in Modern Society

32:55 to 36:45

Examine the historical and modern-day complexities of nomadic existence and their significance.

“Anthony, thanks so much for being with us.”

Exploring European Nomadic Groups

36:45 to 42:00

Learn about the unique lifestyles and histories of nomadic groups in Europe and their challenges.

“I mean, nomads in Iran produce a significant amount of meat, you know, because they've got all these sheep, millions of them, and they sell them into market.”

The Nature of Nomadic Living

42:01 to 45:35

Explore the fundamental reasons behind nomadic lifestyles and their historical significance.

“So, Anthony, basically, why do nomads wander?”

Gender Roles in Nomadic Societies

45:36 to 46:35

Discuss the traditional roles of women in nomadic cultures and their importance.

“But I think before long, we're going to be reading histories about the people not who built monuments or destroyed them, but about the people who maintained the natural world around them.”

Challenges Faced by Nomadic Communities

46:36 to 47:46

Learn about the modern challenges nomadic societies face from dominant cultures and globalization.

“because in a way the language, and I know this, for instance, with some of the Saharan tribes in Egypt, for instance, they're forced to speak and learn Egyptian Arabic, which deprives them of their dialect.”

Culturally Sensitive Tourism

47:47 to 50:24

Examine the potential of culturally sensitive tourism for supporting nomadic communities.

“We've been talking with Anthony Satin, and his book is Nomads, The Wanderers Who Shaped Our World.”
Hear the part that matters, and keep it.Open this episode in VO. Double tap your headphones to save a moment as you listen.
Get VO free

Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00Rick Steves:What's not to like about a lightly populated group of rugged islands off the northern tip of Scotland? Well, just be prepared for the weather to get your attention. If you like wild weather and biblical type of rain and storms, then Orkney is the place for you. Kinlay Francis tells us what he loves about living in Orkney. Urban planner Jeff Speck suggests that designing a city should be a lot like designing a home. It's meant to be for people. We like to make our streets as outdoor living rooms. What does that mean? It means they have good edges. It means they really hold you comfortably. Coming up, he explains how some cities are becoming better places to walk by making motorists share space with everybody else.

0:42Rick Steves:Or just keep on walking. Historian Anthony Satin reminds us how nomads have shaped our world for centuries. The one constant is that they keep on doing what they've always done, and that is moving around. Come along for the hour ahead. It's Travel with Rick Steves.

1:00Rick Steves:What kind of world do you want to live in? In just a bit, a city planner tells us what he's been learning from cities in Europe that can help make American cities more enjoyable places to walk around and explore. We'll also look at how nomads from long ago shaped the world we live in today and the challenges that nomadic communities are still tackling. Let's start the hour in a part of Scotland that lies beyond the usual tourist routes. A few years ago, I was heading to Edinburgh for perhaps the 20th time to update the Edinburgh chapter in my Scotland guidebook. And for some reason, I decided, rather than spend three more days in a city I already knew and loved, why not go to someplace entirely new, a place where very few Americans venture at the very north end of Scotland.

1:45Rick Steves:So instead of Edinburgh, I ventured to Orkney. And I was so glad I did. My guide was Kinlay Francis, and he runs a company called Orkney Uncovered. Kinley joins us to share his expertise on his homeland, Orkney. Kinley, thanks for being with us. Thank you very much, Rick. It's great being online with you. Thank you for asking me to join you. First of all, there's a little confusion about the name. Is it the Orkneys, Orkney Islands, or what? Yeah, there's several ways of saying it. A lot of people think it's the Orkneys. That's a no-no here in the far north. The Orkney Islands is fine, but it's just known as the Seventy Islands as a group.

2:23It's just known as Orkney.

2:24Rick Steves:Orkney. So we'd say, I'm going to Orkney. And the people there, not really Scottish. What is the mix of the ethnicity there in Orkney? Yeah, so we were once part of Scandinavia. In 1468, we were given up as part of a marriage to our wedding between King Krishna I of Denmark and James III of Scotland. Wait a minute. 500 years ago, Norway gave you away as a wedding present? Yeah, it's very unfortunate for us because we did not actually want to be part of Scotland. We wanted to stay with Norway. So we've got a very strong Viking and Norse bloodline. We speak English, Norwegian, and Danish up here, no Gaelic.

3:02Rick Steves:It's a fascinating thing because you're just a little stone's throw away from Scotland and the mainland of Britain, but you really have those strong Norwegian roots in Orkney. There's a lot of islands. I think there's like 70 islands and 25 ,000 people, but one island really dominates, right? Yes, that's right. So the main island is called Mainland, just to confuse the matter. Wait a minute, the main island is called Mainland? Right, sure. So when we, here in Orkney, we talk about how we're going on holiday, some of the islanders off the main island say we're going to mainland for the day. So it's not mainland Scotland, it's mainland Orkney, just known as mainland.

3:39Rick Steves:Well, that's great. And then the main city in Orkney, tell us about the major city, because it must dominate Orkney. Yes, it's called Kirkwall, and it means Church on the Bay in Old Norse. It's actually pronounced Korki Vara, in Old Norse. It actually relates to an old church from the 11th century, but we also have dominating the skyline, St. Magnus Cathedral, the most northerly cathedral in the United Kingdom, and was built by the Norse in the 12th century. And you were part of the parish of Trondheim in Norway at that time, 800 years ago. Yes, that's correct. Yes, we were. We were a very powerful place.

4:15We still are today. We have a very good economy, but Kirkwall is a very well-looked-after City has about 8 ,000 people. The economy and employment is very high.

4:25Rick Steves:Kinley, how long has your family been Orkadian? My family have been in the Orkney Islands since 1990. And to be classed as an Orkadian, you need to be born in Orkney. My son Benjamin was born in Orkney. Okay. So if you're raising a kid in Orkney, I'm just curious, what would his favorite sports be? What does he enjoy from a sports point of view? Okay, so this might surprise some people, but one of the big sports here in Orkney is martial arts. And my son Benjamin is big into kickboxing. He also loves outdoor adventure, climbing and hill walking. I've tried to get him into the sea, but he's not having any of it.

5:04It's too cold for swimming. But anything outdoors, adventure, athletics, different sports, and mainly kickboxing.

5:11Rick Steves:Kinley, speaking more about your beautiful son Benjamin, what's your biggest concern as a parent of an eight-year-old boy growing up in the big town of Orkney? I think that the biggest concern for me is the fact that it's such an innocent place, Orkney. There's no crime. It's very easy for children to go out and play, you know, just by themselves in the parks and so on. There is no real concern at all for children, maybe when they go down to the city. And for Benjamin, it's the fact there's no McDonald's and no Burger King and no KFC. What is the big city for you? Is it Edinburgh or Inverness?

5:47Yeah, the biggest city closest to us is Aberdeen, and Inverness is close by as well. They're both within about 150 miles south of Orkney. The biggest city we go to, though, is Edinburgh normally.

5:58Rick Steves:This is Travel with Rick Steves. We're joined by Orkney native Kinlay Francis. He has a particular passion for the geology and history of this group of remote islands, and he shares his passion on tours for his company Orkney Uncovered. Kinley's website is orkneyuncovered.co.uk. In Orkney, it's mostly one-layed roads with turnouts, right? So if there's a car approaching, you just leap for the nearest turnout where there's a little fat part in the road where it's two lanes for about 100 yards and then you carry on. Yeah, that's very true. The turnouts are quite funny, actually, because many people don't understand what a turnout is or a lay-by or a passing place, as we call them.

6:39And there's an unwritten rule in the Orkney and Shetland Islands as well, actually, that the bigger vehicle wins the race. So I always end up being face-to-face with a tractor. So I'm always in the turnout.

6:50Rick Steves:I'm curious about the political issues, because you're in a community of 25 ,000 people in Orkney. We've got Britain, we've got Scotland, we've got Brexit, you know, we've got North Sea oil and gas. What are the big issues? What's your orientation? Are you more friendly with Edinburgh or more friendly with London? Yeah, I mean, personally for myself, I like to be part of Great Britain. The Orkney and Shetland Islands, particularly Orkney, is a royalist county. And it dates all the way back to the 17th century when Oliver Cromwell failed to take us over as part of a military campaign because we were royalists.

7:27But we are very much geared towards the United Kingdom and the government.

7:31Rick Steves:Okay, so you'll stand by London. You don't want any of this separation business then? No, personally, I don't. I mean, there are people in every county within Scotland that want separation. Because if Scotland succeeded in pulling away from England, you'd have to go with them politically. Well, there is that question. Now, here in Orkney and Shetland, there's already the agreement, perhaps in the pipeline, that if this ever happens, then Norway will bring us back. So we can't go back to Scandinavia. And would that be a referendum of the people of Orkney that could decide that? Yeah, I think it's already in the pipeline with the Orkney Islands Council, the people who run the local government up here.

8:09But yes, I think if that was to happen, an overwhelming majority vote would go back to Norway.

8:16Rick Steves:Fascinating. Thank you for that insight. Now, when I landed in Orkney, I was just impressed by how treeless the island was. It was windy, gentle fields, rolling hills, and pretty bald, you know, cows, no stoplights. Beaches were like pneumonia zones. I mean, there are beautiful beaches, but if you went down there, you just would start shivering in a sparse population. You know, when people grow a garden, they do it behind stone walls so it doesn't get blown apart. Fill those blanks in for us. If you're exploring your island, what are you going to find? Yeah, well, one thing you need to explore on the island is you need to remember to wear layers.

8:53It's not about what you're wearing, it's how many layers you've got on. And we are blown to bits by the North Atlantic and the North Sea. A lot of people talk about how, you know, southern England, after a 40 mile an hour wind has to be evacuated. If you add on 100 miles an hour, you've got the Orkney Islands, no one's blinking an eye. We're a very treeless island and that's because of the storm force weather we get from the North Atlantic, from the prevailing westerly. So whenever you guys in the United States get a really bad storm on the East Coast, we're watching the national hurricane service that you've got.

9:25And as soon as it leaves your shores, we've got an eye on that coming in towards us. But it's an incredible, wild, rugged location. And if you like wild weather and biblical type of rain and storms, then Orkney is the place for you.

9:40Rick Steves:Kenley Francis is our guest from his home base in Kirkwall on Orkney right now on Travel with Rick Steves. He provides private tours of the adventure trails and historical sites of Orkney at orkneyuncovered.co.uk. By the way, since we first recorded our conversation with Kenley, the Orkney Island Council has concluded that it would be just too difficult and expensive for Orkney to seek political autonomy from the UK. Kidley, of course, this is a travel show and Orkney has its sights. Boy, there's a lot to see, and it's fascinating because much of it is World War I and World War II history, and much of it is megalithic from the Stone Age, like stone hens, that kind of thing.

10:22Rick Steves:Give us a quick review of, first of all, the 20th century military importance of Orkney. First and foremost, our most social history or history at the moment, which most people in Orkney relate to, is the First World War and the Second World War. Within the Orkney Islands, you've got one of the world's largest natural harvests called Scapa Flow. It was named by the Vikings. It means sword water. And it's an area where the British Grand Fleet was in the First World War and the home fleet in the Second World War. So it was a main anchorage for our battleships. And so there was tens of thousands of personnel based here during the First and Second World War.

10:58Rick Steves:Strategic importance. There were some battles in the bay. Churchill came along and made his barriers to help fortify it. And then one thing I learned from you, Kenley, on my visit, there were more people on Orkney 5 ,000 years ago than there are today. And it was a very important community in the megalithic times. And you've got some quite impressive structures that go back older than the Egyptian pyramids. Yes, Rick, that's correct. We have some very old structures and the population was almost double than it was today. So you're probably looking at about maybe 40 ,000, 45 ,000 people that would have inhabited most of the islands of the 70.

11:37Today, there's only 21 inhabited. The types of ancient structures that we have, we have some huge stone circles, the Standing Stones of Stennis and the Ring of Brodga. These are called Henge Monuments, like Stonehenge, but they predate Stonehenge by at least 1 ,000 years. We also have Scarabray, which is an incredible Neolithic village, one of the best preserved villages in northwest Europe. It's incredible.

11:59Rick Steves:I'll never forget walking with you, and you're 6 '7", and I'm 6 '2", and we both bent down low, as people have for 5 ,000 years, is to climb through this passageway and come into this domed, corbeled room, which was a tomb so many millennia ago, and it just, it overwhelmed me with wonder. Kinley, there's so much to see and do on your fascinating corner of the British Isles. Where would you take me to dinner, period, if you wanted to just really show off Orkney? Well, I think probably my favorite place to go for dinner is a place called Helge's. Helge's is a pub in Kirkwall that's got a Viking style to it.

12:35All the beers are incredible Viking-orientated type beers and meats. It does incredible food and it overlooks the Kirkwall Harbour. It's extremely popular with the locals and the food is always excellent as a service. It's got a great Viking-type atmosphere.

12:50Rick Steves:Well, Kinley Francis, thank you so much for joining us. You've just picked my curiosity and I just want to wish you and your family best wishes as you enjoy your corner of Britain and as you entertain the curious travellers who come to visit. Thank you so much, Rick. I really appreciate all your time.

13:11Rick Steves:Are you up for a good long walk? In a bit, the author of a book about nomads tells us about wandering. It's just human nature. But first, urban design expert Jeff Speck explains how major European cities have been making their streets more pedestrian-friendly. It's Travel with Rick Steves. Americans might go to a European city for art or the history or the food, but chances are they'll come away impressed by Europe's pedestrian-friendly urban cores, efficient mass transit, and inviting public squares. And when they return home, they might wonder why we don't have cities like that here that are more pedestrian-friendly.

13:50Rick Steves:Jeff Speck is an urban planner who's dedicated his career to determining what makes a city a place where people can thrive. He joins us now to consider how Europeans are creatively and successfully creating walkable cities. Jeff's book is Walkable City, and in this book, he contends that Americans can and should learn from Europeans to make our cities more pedestrian-friendly. Jeff, thanks for being here. Hey, it's my pleasure to be on a show that I enjoy. Oh, good. Well, I am so interested in this topic, and, you know, I've been spending 100 days a year in Europe ever since I was a kid, and there has been a huge revolution going on there in city planning, and I got to say, it's bad news for those who insist on driving their cars.

14:32Rick Steves:isn't it? Well, yes and no. It's bad news for those who choose to continue to drive their cars in the face of measures that make it more difficult for them to do so. However, I would say the quality of life for most folks in those cities has been increasing at a steady clip as more and more people realize they can live more healthful and happy lives driving their cars a bit less. Oh, yeah. If I think of cities, Munich, Copenhagen, Paris, you name it, 20, 30 years ago, the squares were parking lots. Today, the squares have a subway station, maybe, a bus station, and there are parks, there are green spaces.

15:11Rick Steves:Tell us about, in general, the evolution of city planning in Europe in the time that you've been studying it. Well, you know, I was in Holland in the 1970s as a very young person. I do remember biking was already more of a thing there than it was here. but the city was awash in motor vehicles. And now I look back at the pictures and the Netherlands and basically Northern Europe in the 1970s looked pretty much like the US. I mean, the cars were a bit smaller, but it was the same scene. Cars piled on top of cars. I was up against the wall with thin sidewalks and being crushed against the wall. I felt like when I walked around in cities a couple of decades ago.

15:52Well, I was hit by a mirror in Florence once because those sidewalks were about 18 inches across. I remember. That's right. It wasn't that bad, but it was certainly noticeable.

16:00Rick Steves:But you know, you mentioned Amsterdam. I was just in Amsterdam and there's a big wide former street that had three or four lanes of, you know, car traffic. And it occurred to me, whoa, this street is totally different now. There's no cars on it. It's generally green. There are four rails for two tram cars and red paved bike lanes and cobbled walking lanes and the sound of birds. Yeah, and I'm willing to bet that the number of people per minute who are going about their daily lives and getting where they need to go in the bike lanes is probably 20 times what's in the car lanes. And certainly the tram lanes are equally efficient.

16:39What's really remarkable when you compare different modes of transport to which we dedicate space in cities is how do you move the most people most efficiently? Because automobiles, you know, in which everyone is surrounded by two tons of metal and a ton of space are really a super inefficient way to get around and, in fact, are really anti-city. Lewis Mumford, writing back in the middle of the 20th century, said the right to bring a motor car to any address in a city is the right to destroy a city, and we've seen that happen.

17:14Rick Steves:Wow. And in cities all over Europe now, they have what's called a congestion fee, and unless you live there or have a special license for your car, if you'd go past that line into the center, you have a bill to pay. And I understand in London, that has decreased the traffic congestion in the streets, and it has subsidized public transportation, and people are now able to get around faster and cheaper with more affordable public transit that gets there quicker because the cars have been incentivized by that congestion fee not to go downtown. Well, what's really interesting, Rick, is that when you use congestion pricing, or we We call it decongestion pricing in cities.

17:53Actually, more people are able to access the city by vehicle. And that's a bit counterintuitive. But what happens, of course, is that the highways and other streets get so overloaded that no one's getting anywhere. And what they found in a number of European cities like Stockholm and London and others is that more people were getting better use out of the road simply by charging a price for travel that mirrored the value of that travel. Well, that makes sense. With cars driving and certainly with cars parking in our cities, we have one of the rare aspects of our society in which it's actively socialist in terms of you're not paying the right price for the value.

18:29And when you allow the market to do its work, actually you get more efficient cities.

18:33Rick Steves:And drivers think they have some right to get that subsidy and maybe they need to be retrained. Jeff Speck is joining us from his office in Brookline, Massachusetts in a conversation from the Travel with Rick Steves archives. as we look at how to make even your city into a more people-friendly environment. Jeff has been a consultant for American cities such as Grand Rapids and Cedar Rapids, Lowell and Somerville, Mass., plus Tampa and Pensacola in Florida on ways to revitalize decaying downtowns and introduce pedestrian-friendly walkways that can bring people together. He wrote Walkable City, how downtown can save America one step at a time.

Read the full transcript

19:13Rick Steves:It's considered a city-planning classic and has been reissued in a revised edition. So, Jeff, let's talk about a couple of cities in Europe. When you, as a city planner, go to Paris, what strikes you as innovative and something you'd like to take home? Well, Mary Hidalgo has been the mayor of Paris for some time. She's a strong socialist. She has done a number of things that you would think would have ended her reign, but she was reelected on the mandate of many more people supporting what she's doing than against it, despite some of the very visible protests. But she really has said, we are going to build a car-free center city.

19:51They're essentially removing cars almost entirely from the central part of that city is the plan over time. She's got 870 miles of new bike lanes she's put in, tens of thousands of parking spaces that she's gotten rid of. She's also backing a 200 million euro plan to turn the Champs -Élysées, you've probably seen the drawings, into this multimodal linear garden. It will still have cars in it, but just many fewer cars moving more slowly, bike lanes, walking lanes, thousands of new trees. So she basically, even before the pandemic, but she responded to the pandemic by saying, wow, you know, we can hear the birds now.

20:28We can breathe fresh air now. Shouldn't the city be like this all the time? And she's been reelected on that mandate.

20:34Rick Steves:And something travelers really are struck by and delighted by is what's called the Paris Plage, the Paris Beach, and there's that two-lane highway along the Seine River that is just, you'd think it'd be critical to move the traffic around because you've got busy, busy lanes going fast without any stop signs and so on along the river. And suddenly, that is no longer accessible to cars, and in the summer, they fill it with sand and they move in palm trees, and you've got a beach. Great success. A big success. And for me, it's brought in a lot of vitality. The city no longer turns its back on the river, but they pull up a lounge chair and enjoy the river.

21:15Rick Steves:And it's great for biking. It's great for entertainment. It's great for restaurants. And it's not great for people who want to drive everywhere. But again, I would say it could be great for those people. They just don't need to drive. That's true. That's true. Let's talk about Barcelona, because Barcelona is a very interesting city in its design. You know, they've got the Echampla district is, to me, wonderful. They've got this, well, you mentioned in your book the importance of having shorter blocks and more compact. The blocks in Barcelona are very small. And there are hundreds and hundreds of them.

21:50The Cerda plan that's famous for those chamfered blocks that you're probably familiar with, where every block has this little chamfered corner. So every intersection is a little diamond-shaped square. I love that. It's a fantastic district.

22:02Rick Steves:I didn't know the name of it, but that is what I think of when I think of Barcelona. Yeah, Serda was the urban designer. And it's one of the densest places in the world. In fact, among the dense European cities, it may be the densest. But they did something remarkable that, of course, their plan helped them to do. But most cities have grid plans that will allow this, was they introduced something called the superblock scheme. And if you can picture a tic-tac-toe board, a nine square where the hashtag is the interior streets, on a whole bunch of their nine squares, they shut all of those blocks to through traffic.

22:37So they might have allowed them to make an L. They might have put in bollards temporarily. People who live there have ways to get in and out. But they ceased to be part of the regional transportation system for that part of the city. And it was a miracle. People who fought it ended up loving it, and they've added more and more superblocks to Barcelona since they started.

23:01Rick Steves:And these are sort of self-contained neighborhoods almost where you can walk to everything you need. It's quite remarkable. Yeah, and I think the difference is in the U.S., people love to snip their blocks to through traffic, but then the streets on the perimeter get wider and wider. Yeah. In a response, in Barcelona, there was no corresponding enlargement of any other streets. It just created a circumstance in which more people were happy walking and biking, and therefore there were fewer people driving and a happier outcome. Yeah. You know, when we talk about happier outcomes, all over Europe, I'm finding cities are embracing this idea of naked streets.

23:37Rick Steves:It seems like insane to have no signs at an intersection, but apparently it really works. Well, the famous engineer who came up with that concept used to stand in front of the cameras and then walk backwards into his naked intersections as they were filming. And we would observe as the cars would swerve around him very slowly. But this idea of Malcolm Gladwell calls it risk homeostasis. And he talks about how every human is comfortable living with a certain amount of risk, and they will actually adjust their behavior to enjoy that level of risk. And so when you create an intersection that is so clear and easy to understand, people just speed right through it.

24:21And the European response is to make things a little more confusing so that each intersection is approached with care. Some have suggested the American equivalent would be that when you get into the middle of a city in your car, your seatbelt pops off and a spike appears on the steering wheel. Yeah. Well, then you would stop.

24:42Rick Steves:This is Travel with Rick Steves. We're getting radical with city design here with Jeff Speck. And it's not radical in Europe, but it sure seems radical where I'm sitting here in the United States. I tell my clients that. I mean, I'm working in Scranton. I'm working in Maui, Orlando, Hyannis, Massachusetts. And they hopefully don't believe that I'm radical. What we're doing is we're sharing best practices that have succeeded not only in Europe, but in a bunch of American cities, as you've observed in the Pacific Northwest, where a lot of great gains have been made towards making cities more welcome.

25:18Rick Steves:And it's exciting to know there are people like you working on this very diligently. Jeff's the city planner, and he's the author of Walkable City. Jeff, tell me a little bit about this notion I read in your book, Walkable City, where you don't even have curbs. What you have is bricks that go from building to building all the way across the street, so you don't know what's really pedestrian and what's for cars. Well, that's called shared space. and the ultimate example of it, which you can find a video on YouTube called Pointon Regenerated, P-O-Y-N-T-O-N, Pointon is a city in England, where they did that.

25:56They had a downtown that was just dying from too much traffic. There was a sense of just congestion and danger. And they basically put in kind of a, what I would call a peanut about, like a double round about, where the whole thing was pavered and cobbled and removed all the signals. But this idea of creating streets that are plazas, that are paved from edge to edge like plazas, in which everyone's expected to mix at extremely low speed, is appropriate in certain dense downtown centers and town centers. I have only worked on one project that was able to pull that off because it does not sit comfortably within the manuals of the American traffic engineering profession.

26:38But more and more American cities are interested in creating these spaces.

26:43Rick Steves:Now, part of the challenge, I would imagine, is giving people who really are committed to driving from city to city a convenient way and an economic way to get out of their car and then become a walking visitor. And in Europe, it's pretty routine now where you have the city ringed by government subsidized inexpensive parking lots that come with a shuttle bus that takes you into the center, or a parking lot by a suburban subway station, and then you just leave your car, hop on the train, go downtown, and you get around with public transit, or with one of these cheap rental out-of-the-bike-rack kind of public bicycles, or just walking around.

27:26Rick Steves:What's your take on these park-and-ride kind of approaches? Well, I think that you have to make it worth it for people. So it works in Europe and in a few limited American places, because the walk, once you get out of your car, is actually a better experience than driving. I have in my book what I call the general theory of walkability, in which I talk about the fact that if people are going to make the choice to walk in America, the walk has to be better than the drive. And to do that, it has to satisfy four things simultaneously. It has to be useful. It has to be safe. It has to be comfortable.

28:02and it has to be interesting. And if you can accomplish those four things, in most American cities, it's just a small portion of the city where that is possible because you have the mixed use to begin with, right? A walk being useful means that you're in a mixed use area with a proper balance of most of the aspects of daily life. And not many of our neighborhoods pull that off. But in our older neighborhoods, particularly our older commercial neighborhoods, our central business districts and our old downtowns, main streets, that's where that usefulness is possible. And if it exists, then you just supplement that by making the streets safe, which is actually the easiest thing to do because the cities own the streets.

28:40So the cities can very quickly re-stripe their streets to make them safer and more multimodal, welcoming bikes and transit. And then the longer slog is the comfortable and interesting part of the discussion because that's basically the outcome of what buildings, what private buildings mostly are lining the streets and are they shaping the space in a proper way. As an urban designer, I spend a lot of time thinking about the shape of the space. We like to make our streets as outdoor living rooms. And what does that mean? It means they have good edges. It means they really hold you comfortably. So we spend a lot of time on that.

29:14Rick Steves:Jeff Speck is with us on Travel with Rick Steves as we look at examples for turning cities into walkable, people-friendly spaces. Jeff's 2012 book, Walkable City, is the best-selling city planning book of the past decade and is out in an updated edition. He's also written Walkable City Rules, 101 Steps to Making Better Places. Jeff's TED Talks and YouTube videos on the topic have been viewed by millions. His website is specdempsy.com. Jeff, it's been so much fun talking to you. We're just about out of time, but I'd love to let you be the tour guide right now. And with your ability to see things through the eyes and the sensibilities of a city planner, what can we travelers do to enjoy our visits to whatever city we're going to, let's say in Europe, a little bit more.

30:02Rick Steves:What do you look for and how can that help us? Well, I'll give you one tip, which I use myself, which I think anyone is capable of doing, which is whenever I'm about to book a hotel in a foreign city, particularly a European city, I'll go on the Google Maps and I'll find the medieval neighborhood. That's the neighborhood where the streets are cranky, where they're narrow, where the blocks are tiny. You know, sometimes the best hotels, you know, the Hotel de Vie or whatever, are located in the Enlightenment part of town or the Beaux-Arts part of town. And those can all be great to see for spectacle and for energy or for monuments.

30:35But it's always the medieval part of the city that's the most walkable, most delightful, most mysterious, that has the tiny shops that can only hold a non-chain store, the special mom-and-pop places. I always find those neighborhoods for my hotel.

30:51Rick Steves:I can think of several towns right now where that's exactly the case. Barcelona's Gothic Quarter is a perfect example. Rome's Medieval Quarter. And what's fun is even American cities have our, you know, the oldest ones. We have a Gothic Quarter, or so it would seem, in Boston, in New York City. You know, Wall Street is that place. Oh, yeah. You know, our older cities have those as well here. Jeff Speck, thanks so much for joining us, and happy travels, and let's all hope for a more walkable urban world. Thanks, Rick. It's been great to join you here. They're living just enough. Just enough of a city

31:34Rick Steves:You'll find web links to our guests in the notes for each week's show at ricksteves.com slash radio. If city life gets to be a little too much for you, maybe you'd rather just get out of town. Well, up next, we'll look at how the wanderers among us, outsiders in nomadic communities, have often been a sort of counterbalance to the great empires of human history. Anthony Satin explains, next on Travel with Rick Steves. I've long been fascinated by nomads. I've encountered them in my travels, the Bedouins in Morocco and Palestine, Kurds in Turkey, Sami people in Scandinavia, Roma, and I've wondered about how the cards are stacked against any group of people who don't want to settle down, who don't want to own land and build fences and send their children to the same school as everybody else so they can fit into the mold as dedicated by the dominant settled culture.

32:27Rick Steves:The urge to move exists within all of us, yet half of the world's population lives in cities. The nomadic societies that played a key role in shaping our history had no written history, and today most of them are gone. Anthony Satin digs deep into this overlooked side of history and how the mobile and settled have come together and diverged through the centuries. It's all in his book, Nomads, the Wanderers Who Shaped Our World. Anthony joins us today to talk about the nomadic societies in and around Europe. Anthony, thanks so much for being with us. Rick, thanks for having me on the show. So is it true that nomadic people never wrote down their own history?

33:07Yeah, almost never. It's an oral tradition. And that's part of the sort of the makeup of their internal relations. Everybody gathers together and they tell stories.

33:17Rick Steves:When you travel in and around Europe, I'm talking Europe, I'm talking North Africa, the Middle East and so on, you're very likely to encounter these cultures. Maybe not under the stars at a tent at an oasis, but in a market or semi-nomadic settled and so on. What's the state of the Bedouin people in North Africa and the Middle East? The big news is they're still there and there's still quite a lot of them. They're always under threat. Government's always wanting to make them settle and offering these two carrots of education for the kids and health care for the elderly. But the one constant is that they keep on doing what they've always done, and that is moving around.

33:58Less of them than there were, but they're still doing it.

34:01Rick Steves:You know, I suppose that's easier for them to do that where they move around because it's deserts and people don't really want that land anyway, so they're free to roam it. Yeah, the majority of our planet is not good for agriculture. So the majority of the planet is good for herding. So yeah, there's plenty of space for them to keep on doing it if governments will let them take on that land. And you mentioned up in the frozen north and down in the hot south, but unfortunately for a lot of nomads, there's gold in them, their hills. Yeah, that can change all of a sudden. That's the story of the U.S.

34:36as well. The Western tribes in the U.S. in the 19th century lost out because of the gold rush.

34:42Rick Steves:You know, one of the most fascinating courses I ever had when I was at the University of Washington was based on a book called Reflections on the Basic Causes of Human Misery. It was a fascinating book. And the takeaway was the most unmiserable societies were people who lived on land that nobody wanted. And also who lived in a bonded community like that with a narrative. And in a way, this thing about oral history is important because so many of us and in so many different countries I go to have lost that sense of a shared narrative of who we are. Now, in Turkey, there are a lot of Kurds. And I understand the word Kurd actually comes from the root for the word for nomad.

35:19Rick Steves:There's like tens of millions of these Kurds in eastern Turkey. It's one of the largest, you could call it, nations without states. They don't have their own boundary. They're not able to have their own government. But they're still thriving. in eastern Turkey, it seems like, as a community. What is your take on the Kurds? Well, this is a really hot potato politically, and not just in Turkey, but in Iraq as well. The Kurds fought... Kurdistan. You don't want to say that word Kurdistan in certain circles. No, exactly, exactly. But you have to wonder what happened after the First World War when the British and the French were carving up the Middle East.

35:58There were the states for the Arabs. There was talk about Armenia for the Armenians. But the Kurds?

36:04Rick Steves:No, it's just draw the line and silence, yeah. Yeah, and it is because there are nomadic peoples and the tent dwellers rather than the town or city dwellers, and that's the problem. Okay, so we've got lots of Kurds, and then Sami, there's like I think 100 ,000 people up in the Arctic of Scandinavia who make their living basically herding reindeer. That's right, that's right. But I think they are more integrated and sort of more happily in connection with certainly in Sweden with the government there. Probably because the government is more progressive and sensitive to their needs. Certainly, and also because there's a recognition of there's a value to herding reindeer.

36:43And I mean, I write in my book about the Bakhtiari in Iran. I mean, nomads in Iran produce a significant amount of meat, you know, because they've got all these sheep, millions of them, and they sell them into market. So it's, you know, this is an important part of the Iranian economy.

36:59Rick Steves:It's almost part of the environment, the ecosystem, is to have people taking care of the sheep so they thrive. Yeah, exactly. No, but the problem is this long, long historical view, and the reason why I wrote this book is because in our histories, our histories are simply not fit for purpose because they don't reflect the reality of the relationship between the nomadic and settled people, which is one of mutual dependence. We're looking at the underappreciated side of history with author Anthony Satin right now on Travel with Rick Steves. He's the author of Nomads, The Wanderers Who Shaped Our World, as well as earlier historical titles on Egypt and North Africa.

37:36Rick Steves:From his own travels, Anthony's collected stories from 12 ,000 years of nomadic societies, most recently with Bakhtiari nomads in Iran. Anthony's own wanderings have led him to Umbria in Italy, where he's joining us from his home studio. I want to get more into the specifics about nomadic culture, but there's two groups I want to finish in our survey before we dive into that, and that is Irish travelers or tinkers and the Roma or the gypsy community. First of all, when we go to Ireland, Anthony, you just can't help but run into comments or references to the travelers. Who are these people? And is that actually a community like we're talking about the Samis and the Kurds and the Bedouins?

38:19Yes, it is still a community. I mean, a shrinking community, but it's definitely still a community. And we have them in England as well. There are travelers and they move around and they traditionally, they had at least for the last 50 years in my lifetime, they were people who would deal in all sorts of things that other people didn't want to deal with, scrap metal or whatever it was. They were functioning on the fringe of communities, literally, and on the fringe of economy.

38:46Rick Steves:Historically, do we have something like that in the United States? You have your great Native American tribes in the United States. Well, apart from that, because I mean, I'm thinking you're talking about not an ethnic group so much as just a society that would rather have a nomadic lifestyle and sell scrap metal or something. Oh, yeah. But you still do have in the United States a vast number of people who choose to live in what was called wheel estate rather than real estate. And the movie Nomadland absolutely pins that story brilliantly. There you go. Wheel estate. I've never heard that. That's great.

39:21Rick Steves:It's a good one. One more one more reason to read your book, Nomads, the Wanderers who Shaped Our World. The final European group of nomadic people I'd like to mention is the Roma or the gypsies. What's the story with the Roma people? The Roma people are a people that I mean, unlike sort of Irish thinkers or whatever, who are more of a not such an ethnic group as an occupation. The Roma are an ethnic group and their origins are somewhat obscure, but it probably came from India originally, but a long, long time ago. And they can trace their history back at least to the Roman Empire, and that's partly their name, and from Romania.

39:58But they are not well received in most places where they're found.

40:04Rick Steves:All European societies were nomadic at first, and they eventually settled down and bought land and made fences and changed from herders to farmers. Is what the difference with the Roma community is? They just never decided to morph into that, which fits better into the modern mold. So they've been a disadvantaged group because they've held on to those pre-settled ways. Yeah, absolutely. And maybe another way of looking at them is with an element of fascination, as in they are part of our story, as all New York ads are. This is the way we all did at once. Oh, it's amazing because I've visited fascinating Roma communities in Romania.

40:41Rick Steves:A big question for me lately is I'm just perplexed with the proper term. Of course, we've all grown up saying gypsies, and now I understand Roma is the preferred term. Do the Roma people, are they unified in this desire to change the name? Of course, gypsies is a misnomer, you know, because it says they're from Egypt when they weren't from Egypt. Yeah, exactly. But do all Roma consider gypsy to be derogatory? I think there is a sense of, yeah, that it has the wrong connotation for them. I mean, you don't often hear people sort of waxing lyrical about the gypsy. No, but that's because people have given that up to the notion they're all thieves and so on.

41:20Rick Steves:And, you know, when you go to Spain, you've got a pride in the gypsy community. There's a group called the Gypsy Kings. You go to Granada, which has got 50 ,000 gypsies, I think, and they call themselves gypsies. Yeah, the whole flamenco culture comes out of that gypsy. Yeah, I mean, you wouldn't say a Roma cave in Granada. You'd say a gypsy cave. No, exactly. That's true. I don't know. It's a complicated thing. Anthony Satin is a fellow with the Royal Geographic Society, and he's hosted TV and radio documentaries on travel for the BBC. We're talking with him right now on Travel with Rick Steves about his most recent book, Nomads.

41:57Rick Steves:His website is anthonysatin.com, spelled S-A-T-T-I-N. So, Anthony, basically, why do nomads wander? No. The real question is, why do we not all wander? Wandering is our natural state. You know, we make a journey at the beginning of our life from the womb to the light, and religion tells us we make a journey at the end of our life, all religions tell us, we make a journey at the end of our life to the other world. And in between, some of us choose not to move, and it's just such a strange thing. Yes, well, that's very fundamental. So that really divides us. And as you mentioned in your book, a long, long, long, long time ago, there were 40 million nomadic people.

42:43Rick Steves:And that was 100 % of humanity, apparently. And today there's 40 million nomadic people, but it's less than 1 % of humanity. So there's as many wanderers today as there was 12 ,000 years ago. Is that right? Yeah. And think about the weirdness of living a subtle life where we're constantly being told we have to walk 10 ,000 steps. I mean, to a nomad, this is just ridiculous. Imagine a nomad with a little wristwatch that showed how many steps he's been to do. You think you're a nutcase. Hey, I'm curious about just the way nomadic societies work. And I would imagine this is pretty much consistent across the board.

43:19Rick Steves:Gender roles. Briefly, what are the traditional gender roles with the nomadic community? Well, this is one of the surprises that I found looking back into history and these three famous nomads that we can name check who get this bad reputation. They're Tella the Hun, Genghis Khan and Timur or Tamburlain. And for them, women are absolutely central to all the decision making, all the sort of gathering of the grandees and the elders. There are women. And, you know, Genghis Khan's wife is the one who, you know, sits beside him the whole way through the building up and administration of his emperor.

43:53And that plays through to today in a lot, if not all, nomadic societies. Women have a central role.

44:01Rick Steves:You know, here is a very interesting moment or image that might represent what you're saying. I was in eastern Turkey hanging out with a Kurdish nomadic family in their black hair tent, right? They have these black goat hair tents, like go all the way back to biblical times. The mother was there with the children, and the little boy was playing his eagle bone flute. And this was amazing just to see the mom making the tea and the boy playing his eagle bone flute. And then over the bluff, way in the distance, I couldn't see him, the dad would play his eagle bone flute. So the boy knew the dad was okay, the dad knew the boy was okay, and the dad was out of sight with the herds, and the mom was in the tent with the kids, and the eagle bone flute was connecting them and connecting through times for millennia, literally thousands of years.

44:54Rick Steves:But that kind of represented the fundamental situation, and it seems that has not changed very much through the centuries. No, and how beautiful is that as an image? I've got goosebumps for that. I do too. I love that. I'm so thankful for that moment and to know that what I was listening to was so representative of a beautiful, beautiful way of life that is struggling in the confines of our modern kind of settled world. Well, it's struggling, but it's still there. And this is the important thing. And it hasn't gone. There's this image that I love of history as a path picked through ruins. And the suggestion that, you know, history is about people who build things, who build the pyramids, the Colosseum or whatever.

45:41But I think before long, we're going to be reading histories about the people not who built monuments or destroyed them, but about the people who maintained the natural world around them. Yes.

45:52Rick Steves:There's an ever greater value in people that are connected with the natural world as it becomes an existential challenge to preserve it. You know, when I was with that Kurdish community, we were talking about the challenges in their life. And they talked about how the Turkish government had offered them land, offered them schools, trying to get them almost to bribe them to settle down and speak the same language and join the dominant culture. and they really found it was really offensive to their own what they treasured and honoured and they refused it. And that's kind of the disadvantage that nomadic communities have around the world, isn't it?

46:27Rick Steves:That in order to be embraced by the dominant culture, they've really got to abandon theirs. It is a problem and language is absolutely key to that because in a way the language, and I know this, for instance, with some of the Saharan tribes in Egypt, for instance, they're forced to speak and learn Egyptian Arabic, which deprives them of their dialect. Oh, yes. And that's something that those of us who don't have to struggle to preserve our language aren't very sensitive to. But if a society is not allowed to have its own language, that is over the line. I mean, that cannot be allowed. They've got to defend the right to speak their language.

47:07Rick Steves:Exactly. And but, you know, I wonder, I mean, in the US, the Native American languages, are they still current? Do people still talk them? I don't know. I don't know, but I do know that when there's a struggle with an ethnic group in Europe that is a nation without a state, a group of people that have their nation, but they don't have a political boundary, the bone of contention is a lot of time, can we have education for our people? And I know for indigenous people in Central America, you know, the government of Guatemala will give them an education, but it's Spanish, and they say, no, we want it in our language, and they don't get it, so they become an underclass.

47:43That's problematic, very problematic.

47:46Rick Steves:So this is Travel with Rick Steves. We've been talking with Anthony Satin, and his book is Nomads, The Wanderers Who Shaped Our World. I've been fascinated by nomads ever since I've been traveling because as you travel, if you reach out, you find the resilience of the nomadic communities and the deep history and how there is this little do-si-do between the people who are unsettled, nomads, and people who are settled, what we would call civilized, which is a horribly ethnocentric way to put it. Today, Anthony, we're out of time, but I would just like to kind of wrap it up with what is the future for nomadic peoples?

48:24Rick Steves:Is there a sort of a best scenario? And is it possible to have culturally sensitive tourism? Can that be a good thing? I don't think things are as bleak as they might be for a lot of nomadic peoples. I think they're even more than we talked about politics and how governments like to settle and probably even more dangerous for them is global warming, climate change. For instance, in Mongolia, which has a long, long tradition of nomadic people, because most of the country is unfit for farming. Because of the summers in El is so hot and the winters are so cold. A lot of Mongolia's nomads are now living, given up and there's now a tent city around the capital.

49:06and they're all looking for jobs. So that's their greatest.

49:10Rick Steves:I think you see the same dynamic in Palestine with the Bedouins. Yes, you do. Yes, you do. But at the same time, they are still doing what they do and they are still who they are. And I'm optimistic. I'm optimistic. And then just if we're curious, as people who want to have a broader perspective and learn from our travels, is there a culturally sensitive way to, and can that bring economy in a healthy way to these communities to weave that into our travels as tourists? Yes, I think it obviously has to be small scale, low key. Can't have thousands of people turning up and hanging out with one particular family in their tent.

49:52Rick Steves:Then it becomes more of a spectacle instead of a... Exactly. But, you know, but I mean, some of the families that I stayed with in Iran, for instance, I mean, that was entirely transactional. I was a paying guest. It was like staying in someone's home, except their home was a tent. Again, this is Travel with Rick Steves. We've been talking with Anthony Satin. His book is Nomads, The Wanderers Who Shaped Our World. Anthony, thank you so much for your interest in nomadic communities and for sharing it so eloquently in your book. Thank you for this opportunity of talking about this really important topic.

50:28Travel with Rick Steves is produced by Tim Tatton, Kaz Moura-Hall, and Donna Bardsley at Rick Steves Europe in Edmonds, Washington. Andrew Wakeling and Sherry Court upload the shows to our website. Sheila Gerzoff handles affiliate promotions, and our theme music is by Jerry Frank. You can find links to our guests, listen to a podcast version of the show, and search the archives at ricksteves.com slash radio. We'll look for you again next week with more Travel with Rick Steves.

51:00Rick Steves:Hey, I'm Rick Steves. In my work, I've always measured profit not in dollars earned, but by trips impacted. And after over 40 years of teaching travel, it's clear to me that if you equip yourself with good information and expect yourself to travel smart, you will. For us, content is king. That's why we offer a world of free content at ricksteves.com. All the TV shows we've ever produced, 50 hours of practical lectures, talks ranging from packing smart and tech on the road to cruising and language lessons. A thriving family of travelers comparing notes in our forum and more. And again, it's all entirely free.

51:40Rick Steves:It's at ricksteves.com.

From the publisher

Hear what it's like to live on one of the windswept Orkney Islands, off the northernmost tip of Scotland, where people have made a home since prehistoric times. Then learn how redesigned urban centers in Europe have had a positive impact on quality of life — and get ideas for making your own city a more enjoyable place to be outdoors. And consider some of the world's most fascinating nomadic societies, from their often underappreciated role in history to their struggles in the modern world.

For more information on Travel with Rick Steves - including episode descriptions, program archives and related details - visit www.ricksteves.com.

More from Travel with Rick Steves

All 65 episodes
745a Orkney Living; Walkable Cities; Nomads of EuropeTravel with Rick Steves · 52 min
Listen in VO