In short
Kayaking around Manhattan; the Mississippi River’s natural and cultural history; travel tips for keeping trips joyful despite planning stress and disruptions.
Guests and backgrounds
- Eliot Stein: journalist/author; wrote about circumnavigating Manhattan by kayak; also wrote Custodians of Wonder about people safeguarding vanishing cultural practices.
- Dean Klinkenberg: Midwest author and journalist; wrote The Wild Mississippi, a state-by-state guide to the river’s natural wonders; also hosts Mississippi Valley Traveler.
- Samantha Brown: travel writer and host of public TV’s Places to Love; “airport geek” and frequent international traveler.
Key claims
- Manhattan’s commerce and cultural diversity are “woven into its DNA.”
- Kayak circumnavigation is logistically demanding due to harbor traffic and tides; it reveals Manhattan’s ecological past.
- The Mississippi is a “living, breathing corridor” shaped by ecology, climate change, and human engineering (levees/dams, wetland loss).
- Travel joy comes from spontaneity, plan B, and reframing mistakes.
Notable examples
- Manhattan Kayak Company: 30-mile route, ~9 hours, guided with radios; currents timed to avoid paddling against flow.
- Inwood Park: last native forest sliver; Lenape caves; boulder marking purported Dutch purchase.
- Little Island: city reconnecting to maritime past with native plants and beaches.
- Mississippi: Effigy Mounds (Iowa, ~1,400 years); Poverty Point (Louisiana, ~3,700 years); jazz/Delta blues spread via steamboats; Clean Water Act improvements; wetlands loss; dams built for navigation.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VODiscovering Manhattan from the Water
1:00 to 2:32
Elliot Stein shares his kayaking experience around Manhattan and its historical significance.
“How do you keep the anxiety of planning a big trip from wearing you out before you even get on the plane?”
Practical Tips for Kayaking Around Manhattan
2:32 to 4:48
Elliot provides essential details on how to kayak around Manhattan, including logistics and safety.
“What a trip, heroically paddling around Manhattan.”
Historical Insights into Manhattan's Geography
4:48 to 7:11
Discussion on Manhattan's original natural landscape and its transformation over centuries.
“and really appreciating 400 years of kind of the place that really made America what it is today.”
Reconnecting with Nature in Manhattan
7:11 to 9:15
Elliot explains how new parks and environmental efforts are revitalizing the natural spaces in Manhattan.
“but also in what's known as the East River today, which is really a tidal strait connecting the Long Island Sound with the ocean.”
Exploring Inwood Park and Native Heritage
9:15 to 13:00
Elliot reflects on Inwood Park as a remnant of Manhattan's natural history and Native American culture.
“And there's even in the middle of this park, there's a giant boulder that marks the purported area where the Lenape actually sold the island of Manhattan to the Dutch 400 years ago.”
Exploring the Mississippi River
14:00 to 19:31
Learn about the diverse landscapes and ecosystems of the Mississippi River.
“to get perspective on the pressures of his younger years.”
Impact of Human Activity on the River
19:31 to 21:47
Discover how human infrastructure has transformed the ecology of the Mississippi.
“And Dean's taking us from Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico down the Mississippi River.”
Recreational Opportunities on the Mississippi
21:47 to 24:32
Explore the paddling and biking adventures available along the river.
“Now you see the Mississippi as a recreational paradise, I think, and there's lots of parks and forests and wildlife refuges along the river.”
Cultural and Historical Significance of the Mississippi
24:32 to 28:00
Learn about the historical sites and cultural importance of the Mississippi River.
“Louis and has written a handy guide to hiking, biking, paddling, wildlife, refuges, and attractions along the river's corridor.”
Exploring the Mississippi: Historic Ports and Personal Experiences
28:00 to 31:25
Learn about the historic ports along the Mississippi River and hear personal stories that highlight its beauty.
“Well, you know, when we think back into the 1800s, the arrival of the trains was really important for moving things around people and goods.”
Show all 16 chapters
Transition to Travel Tips with Samantha Brown
31:25 to 31:54
Introduction to Samantha Brown and her travel philosophy as the next guest on the show.
Embracing the Joy of Travel: Tips from Samantha Brown
31:54 to 38:54
Samantha discusses how to shift from the troubles of travel to embracing spontaneity and joy.
“As a self-proclaimed airport geek, there's hardly an aspect of travel that Samantha Brown doesn't love.”
Airport Experiences and Preparing for Flights
38:54 to 42:01
Samantha shares insights on making the airport experience enjoyable and preparing for long flights.
“And I also love the fact that the definition of independent traveler has changed.”
Travel Tips and Personal Preferences
42:01 to 44:31
Learn various travel tips and personal preferences for flying and packing.
“I actually, sometimes I do have access to those lounges and I don't use the lounge.”
Jet Lag and Layover Strategies
44:32 to 47:22
Discover strategies for dealing with jet lag and the benefits of long layovers.
“the host of the Places to Love travel series on public TV.”
The Lessons of Travel
47:23 to 49:56
Explore important life lessons learned through travel experiences.
“Enjoy that you really will benefit from that quick, quick connecting flight.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00Rick Steves:Have you ever seen Manhattan from the water? Paddling a kayak all the way around the island showed Eliot Stein what a natural wonder it started out as. Were Manhattan never developed into kind of the concrete floating island that it is today, it would be one of the most remarkable natural parks in the U.S. Coming up, we'll hear what he encountered. The Mississippi is legendary as the artery that feeds the heart of America. Dean Klinkenberg wants you to know about its wild sections, too. Whether it's fish or plants, it's just this lush, incredible space where life exists at abundance. And while a number of factors have been complicating people's travels lately, Samantha Brown suggests packing patience and a plan B in case of interruptions.
0:43Rick Steves:Think of it as just another part of the adventure. Let that spontaneity of travel, of being somewhere new, kind of revitalize you and bring you back. Tips for happy travels and outdoor river adventures. They're just ahead on Travel with Rick Steves. How do you keep the anxiety of planning a big trip from wearing you out before you even get on the plane? Well, coming up, Samantha Brown shares her tips for keeping the fun in our travels, even when our plans start to unravel. And while the impacts of storms and weather extremes are making their mark, spending a little time along the Mississippi River can take you to places that sustained native civilizations and carried jazz and the blues from the Delta to the world.
1:27Rick Steves:A Midwestern author tells us about his favorite escapes along the mighty Mississippi in just a bit. Let's start the hour with the stories the Hudson and East Rivers can still tell us about what turned Manhattan into the powerhouse city New York is today. 400 years ago, Henry Hudson sailed up a river which would be named after him as he marveled at what would become one of the world's largest natural harbors. That was Manhattan, and from the start of its European settlement, it was unique, a free-trade zone where people could enjoy religious freedom, a cultural crossroads where many languages were spoken.
2:02Rick Steves:It thrived, growing from a Dutch fur-trading outpost to the biggest and most linguistically diverse city in the world. Photos from around 1900 show the island looking kind of like a porcupine ringed by a tight circle of countless peers. And if you're looking for something physical and unforgettable to do on your next visit to New York City, you can rent a kayak and paddle around the entire island of Manhattan. Travel writer Elliot Stein did just that, and he joins us now to share his experience. Wow. Elliot, thanks for joining us. What a trip, heroically paddling around Manhattan. Thanks so much for having me, Rick.
2:39It was undoubtedly one of the best things I've ever done in New York City.
2:43Rick Steves:Now, first of all, until I read your article, I never appreciated how special Manhattan was. It's like trade is just like deeply woven into its DNA, isn't it? it's it's really a perfect analogy for the united states you know growing up learning about u.s history you learn about the puritans coming over but unlike other parts in the u.s new york city was never founded as a place of settlers seeking religious freedom it was a place of people coming to make a buck and that has stayed within the dna of new york city ever since it is the undisputed capital of commerce it remains a linguistically and culturally diverse place perhaps one of the most diverse in the world.
3:23And remarkably, most people who live here, myself included, probably don't even really think that New York City is an island, that Manhattan is an island.
3:32Rick Steves:Well, and I didn't know you could paddle around it. So let's get right into the logistics of this. This is a travel show. Many of us will be in New York City. And what a fun dimension of New York City to actually experience. Tell us just about the practicalities of doing this trip. Where do you get the kayak? How long is it? How long does it take? And so on. Sure. There's a wonderful company called Manhattan Kayak Company on the west side of Manhattan on about 44th Street. And several times a year, 10 exactly, they offer trips where groups of people go out and circumnavigate Manhattan. It's 30 miles and you time it with the currents so that you were as much as possible traveling with the current.
4:12You go south, you go around the battery, and then you You go north up the East River and then loop the Harlem River and then come back south again. It takes nine hours and you test into it. So if you're someone who's never done kayaking before, this probably isn't a trip for you. But if you're someone who has kayaking experience, you can go with Manhattan Kayak Company and they will give you sort of a test to make sure that you're ready for it. And then you can sign up to join the circumnavigation. They offer all of the kayaks themselves. They offer all of the equipment. It's not something you need to bring with you.
4:47But it is a completely unique way of seeing the city, of understanding its history, and really appreciating 400 years of kind of the place that really made America what it is today.
4:58Rick Steves:So is it such, it just seems like you're into serious waters there. Can anybody just rent a kayak and do it, or do you have to do it with this escort? You really need to do it with this escort, if only because the New York Harbor remains the the most active harbor on the East Coast. It's not something that you really want to do with such a busy shipping lane. Well, you don't want a bunch of yahoos out there on paddle boards and kayaks when you got all this traffic. Exactly. But they have several guides who got with you and they have two-way radios. And their job is basically to navigate the group of kayakers and also paddle boarders through the ferries, through the barges, through the pretty dense traffic that comes.
5:40Rick Steves:Now, when you talked about you go with the current, or you're wise about the current if you're making this 30-mile-long paddle, and that reminds me that, as you wrote in your article, the Algonquin name for the Hudson River was river that flows two ways. They really were aware of that, weren't they? Absolutely. So, you know, most people don't realize that the Hudson River, for the first 100 miles from south to north until about the city of Troy, it changes direction every six hours. So depending on the current, Manhattan Kaya Company times these circumnavigations so that you're generally not paddling against the current, which is a very, very tough endeavor, believe me.
6:19You want to be traveling with it essentially like a conveyor belt. And in certain places, such as around the battery when you go into the East River, you're being shot on kind of a 12-knot treadmill that really whisks you through the whole thing.
6:32Rick Steves:Wow. I didn't realize there's the current. And if you go back to, you know, olden days, Native Americans would be very mindful of that. You know, they would probably travel one way when the tide was going in and another way when the tide was going out. I mean, very much so. Just as kind of you set your proverbial watch to a sun rising and setting. I mean, this was the way that people navigated for centuries. Even Hudson, when he is first arriving in what would become Manhattan, he noted that as he arrived in his ship, groups of Lenape, who are the indigenous people of Manhattan, came out to greet him in canoes.
7:05And so they would have been keenly, keenly aware of the changing navigation, not only in the Hudson, but also in what's known as the East River today, which is really a tidal strait connecting the Long Island Sound with the ocean.
7:18Rick Steves:This is Travel with Rick Steves. We're joined by journalist and author Elliot Stein as we paddle around Manhattan. Elliot, when he's not paddling around Manhattan is really into cultures all around the world. In fact, his latest book explores customs which are on the brink of fading from existence and memory. The book is called Custodians of Wonder, and in it Eliot delves into the lives of ten remarkable individuals who are safeguarding various vanishing cultural practices. You can learn more about this and read the article Eliot wrote about his circumnavigation of Manhattan Island at elliottstein.me and that's Eliot with one L.
7:55Now, Elliot, if you had paddled around Manhattan 200 years ago, what would you recognize today that the people who lived there back then would have seen? Oh, gosh, almost nothing. One of the most fascinating things that I discovered in researching this article was that before Europeans came to Manhattan, the island of Manhattan was one of the most geographically diverse places in the U.S. There are experts who have studied this and determined that were Manhattan never developed into kind of the concrete floating island that it is today, it would be one of the most remarkable natural parks in the U.S.
8:34There were deer, there were elk, there were hundreds of springs and giant ponds that lived there. What is now the Upper West Side was a dense forest. there's really one tiny sliver of this original ecological oasis that still exists and it's Inwood Park. It's the northern tip of Manhattan and it's the last native forest on the island of Manhattan. And as you're rounding it on the northern tip, you're really reminded of how remarkably diverse and changed the whole island is to see it from these soaring skyscrapers to this tiny little green oasis. It's a remarkable thing and there's still a tiny sliver of beach There are caves used by the Lenape from hundreds of years ago.
9:18And there's even in the middle of this park, there's a giant boulder that marks the purported area where the Lenape actually sold the island of Manhattan to the Dutch 400 years ago. It's a kind of confronting reminder of where the island came from and where we are today.
9:35Rick Steves:So as you paddle around, of course, you're going to be, I would be marveling at this skyline of skyscrapers of Midtown. You wrote that you go under like 21 bridges, but you do find these little bits of parkland or natural habitat. You wrote about a place called Little Island. Describe the floating park Little Island. Yeah, that's one of the most interesting things about what's happening in Manhattan today is that the island and, you know, the city itself to a certain extent is reconnecting its maritime past. You know, this was an island, this was a city that was founded as a port city. but in recent years the city has invested really really heavily into into its waterways to the point that all along the coastal area along the river you have these new parks including a little island that to a certain extent are designed to mimic the way that the topography used to be on the island so you have native plants that are being reintroduced you have beaches you have monuments to some of the wildlife that used to exist there.
10:38And it's almost like, you know, the city has modernized so much and changed so much that within the last few years, the city is making a concerted effort to look back on its past and try to really connect where it came from.
10:51Rick Steves:And what about the general cleaning up of the environment? Do you feel like you're going through a cesspool or would it be safe enough to jump off your canoe and take a swim? There's been such a strong effort, I'd say, in the last decade to clean up the industrial runoff, the waste that has been kind of synonymous with the Hudson River. In the last 10 years, there's been tons and tons of money poured in from the city and also the state to clean up a lot of this runoff. And so by a lot of estimates, the Hudson River most days of the year is actually swimmable. And you certainly don't want to go in there after a heavy rain, but two-thirds of the year, it's actually considered swimmable.
11:28The East River is getting there as well, and there've been And other large efforts, such as the Billion Oyster Project, which is aiming to restore the estimated billions and billions of oyster reefs that used to be prevalent all in these waterways that act as kind of natural purifiers of the water. So unlike some of the vanishing traditions we talked about earlier, I would imagine that in 20, 30, 40 years time, the rivers and the waterways that ring Manhattan will actually be much cleaner than they are today. And there's even talk of building public swimming pools.
11:59Rick Steves:Oh, that would be great. Now, if you're inspired by this, but you can't make one of the 10 escorted trips around the island a year, and you're going to be on foot, what's your takeaway just from a sightseeing point of view that you'd like to remind people of just to appreciate what you appreciated, but by staying on the land? Yeah, I'll say that there is one other group called the Inwood Canoe Club, which offers, and it's called canoe, but they do also offer kayak trips, I think, once or twice a year of this. But if you can't make it to the water, I would really, really recommend the next time you're in Manhattan, take a trip north to Inwood Park, and you're going to see sort of the way that the island used to look before Europeans transformed the whole thing.
12:39there's dense forest it feels like you're in the Hudson Valley you'll see caves from the Lenape you'll see woodlands it really is a startling contrast to what most people understand of Manhattan and a very lovely off the beaten path way to escape kind of the hustle and bustle of midtown in lower Manhattan
12:59Rick Steves:Elliot thanks so much for taking us on a cruise around Manhattan and best wishes with your work thanks thanks so much Rick Elliot Stein tells us about the most treacherous part of his kayak trip at Hell's Gate. It's in an extra from today's interview at ricksteves.com slash radio. Let's head for the Mississippi River next on Travel with Rick Steves. Among the world's most important rivers, the Mississippi is often credited with being the heart and soul of the United States. It's an ecological lifeline, a crucial transportation route for steamers and barges, and it's long been a cultural fast track between farmlands and cities, a mere riverboat ride away to the wider world.
13:45Rick Steves:As it flows 2 ,000 miles from its Minnesota headwaters to the Gulf of Mexico, the Mississippi has shaped the history and identity of 10 states and hundreds of river communities. Dean Klinkenberg took refuge along its woodland trails to get perspective on the pressures of his younger years. Since then, his river journeys have inspired characters he's crafted for his Frank Dodge mystery novels, which he sets along its banks in Dubuque, Rock Island, and La Crosse. His latest work is a travel handbook. It's called The Wild Mississippi, a state-by-state guide to the river's natural wonders. Dean joins us now on Travel with Rick Steves to tell us why he calls the Mississippi a living, breathing corridor of American culture that deserves our attention.
14:31Rick Steves:Dean, welcome. Hi, Rick. It's a pleasure to be here talking about my favorite subject. The Mississippi. Well, take me on just a quick overview float down the river from the headwaters way up in the north all the way to its mouth. From a traveler's point of view, I understand it's steeper north of, like, Twin Cities, and then it starts getting less steep and slower in the last thousand miles? Absolutely. I think people would be amazed if they followed the river from source to sea, especially if they had never been that far north. It kind of trickles out of Lake Itasca, which is what we designate as the official starting point for the Mississippi, and it just sort of slowly meanders through the sand plains of northern Minnesota in the forests until it gets to the Twin Cities.
15:16It passes through the only gorge on the river's length in the Twin Cities around Minneapolis and then enters this valley that's three to five miles wide with tall limestone bluffs on either side, And then eventually, as it gets further south, the bluffs get lower and it enters the alluvial plains of the lower Mississippi. And then it really meanders.
15:35Rick Steves:Yeah. And it seems like there's kind of two Mississippis. There's a big divide. There's the Outdoorsman's Mississippi and then there's the big Steamer's Mississippi. And those worlds do cross. But, yeah, there are a lot of recreational users of the Mississippi, especially north of St. Louis. You'll find people fishing no matter where you go. but there's more boating and paddling further north of St. Louis, and there's always going to be some commercial traffic as well, usually those barges moving grain for export. Now, you've dedicated a lot of your life. It's clearly your passion. Your book, The Wild Mississippi, A State-by-State Guide to the River's Natural Wonders, is just beautiful.
16:12Rick Steves:What is it about the Mississippi for you that is so attractive and kind of your go-to place? I really got hooked on the river when I was a college student. I went to school in La Crosse, Wisconsin after growing up in the suburbs and small towns of the Midwest, and there was nothing like the Mississippi anywhere around me when I was growing up. So when I got there, I really got hooked on the natural beauty of the river, and it became a go-to place for me just to sort through whatever was going through my head at the time. But what is, I mean, okay, I'm picturing you needing to kind of chill out and just kind of get away from it all and have a few tranquil moments.
16:48Rick Steves:Are we talking about a canoe made out of birch bark going through willow trees? Are we talking about trying to avoid the wake of a giant cargo boat when the river is very, very wide? I mean, where is it where you find the peace and the value that way? I haven't been lucky enough yet to get myself in a birch bark canoe and try that out on the Mississippi. Someday I hope to do that. But I think it's just that being out in that world is the way that I connect to something beyond myself. I feel like I'm part of something much bigger. And when I'm doing that and I'm surrounded by all this life, by the birds and the plants, I kind of feel like my problems are pretty small.
17:27Rick Steves:You know, I've come to this realization that the more understanding and context we bring to our travels, to our sightseeing, to our paddles, to our hikes, to our meals when we're on the road, the more we get out of it. And you clearly understand the Mississippi, the average traveler, just it's a big river and it's a fun thing to say. But what is it about the Mississippi, the context that lets us appreciate it? For me, my starting point is I see it as an incredible source of life, that this is a force that creates and sustains life in abundance and life in varied forms. And that's my starting point, whether it's fish or plants.
18:06It's just this lush, incredible space where life exists in abundance. It's also beautiful to look at. It's also a handy way to get from place to place. But first and foremost, for me, it's this source of life.
18:20Rick Steves:Now, you're clued into the natural dimension of the Mississippi, the flora and the fauna. How has climate change impacted the river experience in the last generation? I think the biggest impact is probably going to be longer term. We're seeing more rain in the Mississippi Valley. So we're seeing higher river levels that last longer, a little more flooding. But we're also seeing these shocking drifts from drought back to flood. The last two, three years, we've been in a pretty severe drought, and the river has been very low, especially in late summer. Now we just had these incredible rains in the Mississippi Road, something like 30 feet in a week, which is unheard of.
19:03So we're seeing these rapid changes. Some of that is us. We've engineered the river so widely that some of these changes are happening because of that. But certainly these rapid changes from drought to flood are happening more often. And then I think around the Gulf of Mexico, around where the Mississippi meets the Gulf of Mexico, that water tends to be warmer now. So there is some change happening there with the kinds of marine life right at the end of the river.
19:30Rick Steves:This is Travel with Rick Steves. We're talking with Dean Klinkenberg. And Dean's taking us from Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico down the Mississippi River. Dean fell in love with the Mississippi in college, and now he writes guides to the river. His latest book is called The Wild Mississippi, a state-by-state guide to the river's natural wonders. You can find more about Dean and his work at his website. It's MississippiValleyTraveler.com. Dean, you mentioned just a bit earlier about the human impact on the river. How has growing cities and more infrastructure and so on impacted the river? It's a little bit of a mixed bag, to be honest.
20:08And we've done some things much better. The water's cleaner than it used to be because of the Clean Water Act. We don't dump raw sewage in the river like we used to. But the levees and navigation jams have fundamentally changed the ecology of the river. The biggest impact is probably just the loss of wetlands. The wetlands serve as an important function in the ecosystems where they hold water, purify water, but they also provide critical habitat for a lot of wildlife. And we've lost a large proportion of the wetlands along the Mississippi, especially when you get south of the Quad Cities area of Iowa and Illinois.
20:42the wetlands become less and less connected to the river.
20:44Rick Steves:What are the four cities that make up Quad Cities? Moline, Davenport, East Moline, Rock Island, and Bettendorf. I was just checking. You know your stuff. You could have told me anything. Hey, what about taming the river? I understand there are dams along the river. Where are those, and what's the impact, and why do they do that? So the dams that we have on the Mississippi are essentially for navigation only. They were built in the 1930s to provide a reliably deep enough channel for barges to float. And they have fundamentally changed the ecology of the Mississippi from a free-flowing river into a series of essentially stagnant pools.
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21:25And they trap sediment behind them. So a lot of the backwater areas now are filling in with sediment. They serve no function for flood control. That's a misconception. They're only there to provide a deep enough channel for barges. It's a whole other issue whether it's a good idea to be doing it this way. I've written pieces about that too, but those are the dams that we have on the Mississippi.
21:46Rick Steves:Okay. Now you see the Mississippi as a recreational paradise, I think, and there's lots of parks and forests and wildlife refuges along the river. Tell us a little bit about paddling adventures in the upper stretches of the Mississippi above the Twin Cities. That's probably where the most paddlers enter the river is on the upper, you know, that stretch, particularly up in Minnesota. So you have a 500-mile stretch above the Twin Cities that there's no commercial traffic, which is nice, but there are some dams there and some other things you have to navigate around that area. But for the most part, it's lightly populated.
22:21You pass through prairies and forests. The stream is pretty narrow. It's a very manageable river to paddle on. And you can go to areas where there is an abundance of wildlife. still.
22:33Rick Steves:I guess you can picture two Mississippis. There's that paddle-friendly Mississippi, and then there's the big, wide, industrial Mississippi. From a recreational point of view, to be honest, where is it more interesting for you? Generally, above St. Louis is the best, but I have been in canoes on the entire river for the most part. There are people who paddle even through the wide, more industrial parts of the Mississippi. Every year, we have a few dozen people who decide they want to paddle the whole river from source to sea, and that takes about three months on average. So if you're looking for an adventure sometime, a bucket list kind of item, Rick, you know, you can always put that on the bucket list.
23:09Rick Steves:It's a very different river south, though. How is it different in the south? It's interesting. Even though there are levees that constrain the river in the southern part of the river and some very big levees, you get these areas where the river is surprisingly wild. So there's a stretch of 60, 70 miles between bridges where there are no communities of any kind next to the river, no bridges. You can be out there by yourself camping on islands, and it's just you and the birds and the turtles, and that's it. Wow, that sounds nice. Now, I've been in Arkansas where people are just crazy about mountain biking and enjoying trails on their bikes.
23:45Rick Steves:And looking through your book, The Wild Mississippi, clearly there's a real priority for biking trails. Tell us a little bit about biking and hiking opportunities along the Mississippi. Biking trails are becoming a pretty big deal up and down the river now. Even down in Arkansas, there's a trail on top of a levee that starts around Memphis and goes south. There's the Mississippi River Trail that runs on both sides of the river. Some of it's on the sides of highways, but there are some dedicated trails as well. But a lot of states like Wisconsin have dedicated bike trails that run right next to the Mississippi, and they're fantastic places to get out there right next to the river without worrying about cars.
24:23Occasionally you may have to deal with a train, but that's about it. We're wandering down the Mississippi River
24:28Rick Steves:with Dean Klinkenberg as our guide right now on Travel with Rick Steves. Dean lives in St. Louis and has written a handy guide to hiking, biking, paddling, wildlife, refuges, and attractions along the river's corridor. It's called The Wild Mississippi, a state-by-state guide to the river's natural wonders. Dean also hosts the Mississippi Valley Traveler podcast and writes an updated guide to the upper Mississippi called Road Tripping the Great River Road, Volume 1. You'll find web links to his work at ricksteves.com slash radio. So, Dean, if we're thinking about the Mississippi as a travel destination, give us a little bit of advice on specific things we might see or specific experiences we might enjoy along the river.
25:13Rick Steves:What about historical sites, early forts, indigenous sites, prehistoric mounds, those kind of things. People have lived next to the Mississippi for some 10 ,000 years, so you can explore a lot of that history in different places along the river. And there are a couple of sites that I think are especially great spots to visit to learn about indigenous culture. In Iowa, of all places, there's an Effigy Mounds National Monument, which is almost 100 mounds along the bluffs next to the Mississippi River there. Some of them are simple conical or round mounds, and some of them were built in the shapes of animals like bears, and they're really impressive to see in person.
25:50Rick Steves:And still pretty mysterious, huh? We don't know exactly why those were built. That's right. How old are they? Those are as old as 1 ,400 years. There are much older mounds further south. Down in Louisiana, there's a place called Poverty Point where the mounds are about 3 ,700 years old. 3 ,700 years old. 1 ,700 B.C. Wow. Hey, we always think it through the lens maybe of 21st century vacationers, but what was the importance of the Mississippi River to Native Americans two, three, four hundred years ago? I think this is one of the areas, I think, where it's very different from modern culture. I think for them, the Mississippi probably meant three fundamental things.
26:31It was a source of sustenance. They were able to live off the plants and animals that the river sustained. They did use the river for transportation, to travel. There's plenty of evidence that even 2 ,000, 3 ,000 years ago, Native American communities were trading with each other, and it was almost certainly on rivers. But the rivers also had a deep spiritual meaning from my limited understanding of indigenous theology. They built their homes next to it. They built their mounds and spiritual sites next to the river. Clearly, it was something that was central to their lives.
27:04Rick Steves:And then here come the Europeans. And you've got trappers and that kind of thing. But down in the south, you've got New Orleans and Memphis and a little bit farther north, St. Louis. I would imagine it was important from trade. And with trade comes movement of cultures and cuisines and even music. I understand from your book that the jazz and the Delta blues, that Mississippi was a corridor which I would imagine helped it spread. The steamboats were important ways of transmitting a lot of cultural aspects. They were important moving immigrants to communities away from New Orleans and to the Midwest, a little part of the country.
27:39Music was a part of that. I think we probably overstayed a little bit the rivers as the primary or only way that that spread, but it was certainly one important way. I know the story, for example, of Jazz Cornetis Bix Beiderbeck, who grew up in the Davenport, Iowa area, heard jazz from a steamboat, and that was one of the reasons he decided to go into jazz himself. So it did happen.
28:01Rick Steves:Well, you know, when we think back into the 1800s, the arrival of the trains was really important for moving things around people and goods. And even before trains, things went on rivers. Tell us about the historic ports. We think of St. Louis, Memphis, New Orleans. What can we see today if we were to build a vacation around that? Maybe home basing in some of these towns and then side tripping out from there to enjoy the Mississippi. I think probably the port of New Orleans is the most interesting and the most rewarding to visit. New Orleans now has built out so many parks and walks along the river that you can easily stroll there to places that even 20 years ago were inaccessible.
28:43And you can walk along the riverfront and you can see those giant ocean-going cargo ships coming and going and cruise ships coming and going. That's probably the most interesting spot to do that. St. Louis' port is pretty industrial, and I wouldn't say you'd want to spend a lot of time looking at it.
28:57Rick Steves:Okay, that's good advice. Now, I don't do well in the heat and the mugginess of New Orleans in the summer, and I don't do well of the cold of Twin Cities in the winter. I would think you should be mindful of the climate when you're going to be visiting the Mississippi. What's your advice? Yeah, there are people who enjoy winter, I understand, and I think if you do enjoy that, you should definitely go to northern Minnesota and visit the headwaters that time of year. But generally speaking, like in Minnesota, the peak season is going to be probably May to September, October. And that's a very pleasant time of year to visit.
29:29You will have to deal with mosquitoes out there, but we can all find ways to do that. New Orleans, probably best to stay away from in those months, unless you're hardy and don't mind the heat.
29:39Rick Steves:And I love this. You wrote in your book, From Northern Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico, I have immersed myself in the river's waters. Every sunset soothes my mind. Every morning on a sandbar renews my spirit. Talk a little bit more about that, just to close our conversation. You know, your favorite state park, your favorite kind of perch, something that just charms you about the Mississippi. I'll share one experience I had just a couple of years ago, because I think this sort of encapsulates what I love about spending time on the Mississippi. It was late fall, and I wanted to get one more night of camping in, so I went to this place on the river just a couple hours north of my home.
30:16And it was a miserable night, as it turned out. I had noisy neighbors, and it got far colder than I was expecting. So when I woke up, I was grumpy. I stepped outside the tent, and the first thing I see is the light is starting to break over the bluffs to my east, yellows mostly at that point. And I knew I was going to be in for a good show. So I pulled up a chair and I made myself some coffee and I sat and I watched as the sun rose above the horizon and filled the sky with yellows and reds and oranges. In front of me, a fog hung over the river. It smelled a little musty because it's fall. So you have the leaves and that earthiness in the air.
30:54A flock of geese flew over and honked at me as they went by. And as that fog dissipated, I noticed that it was flowing down with the current. And I just thought to myself, well, maybe those are the river spirits heading south for the winter. Erase that mood.
31:10Rick Steves:And with a nice cup of coffee to top it off. That sounds just great. Hey, Dean Klinkenberg, thank you so much for joining us. And thanks for writing The Wild Mississippi, a state-by-state guide to the river's natural wonders. Happy paddling. Thank you, Rick. I appreciate it.
31:32Rick Steves:Dean's website is MississippiValleyTraveler.com If planning a getaway is starting to feel like a lot of work as you try to anticipate what could go wrong Samantha Brown has advice to help keep us light on our feet She joins us next on Travel with Rick Steves Our email address is radio at ricksteves.com As a self-proclaimed airport geek, there's hardly an aspect of travel that Samantha Brown doesn't love. Over the last 20 years, she's visited more than 250 cities in 60 countries. She's learned plenty along the way. Her travel tips are aimed not only to ensure a smooth journey, but to help you find the heart of the places you visit.
32:14Rick Steves:Samantha hosts the public television series Places to Love, and she joins us now on Travel with Rick Steves to share her best travel tips and strategies. Samantha, thanks for joining us. Hey, thanks for having me, Rick. Boy, you know, it's so fun to get together because you and I spend a lot of time on the road and everybody's got their own school of hard knocks, and I think you and I both enjoy learning from that. I'm always impressed when people say travel is just too much trouble. It's exhausting, flying is a drag, and then I think we see it differently. You know, we can talk about basic travel tips later, but let's start out with just a broad question.
32:49Rick Steves:how do you replace the, quote, trouble of travel with the joy of travel? Oh, boy. I mean, I would say for me the trouble of travel is planning it. I'm not a planner. I just get bogged down by the details and the reviews and all these things I should know. And so I think to really tap into the joy of travel is just generally get to a place and let the day take you where it wants to. And just let that spontaneity of travel, of being somewhere new, kind of revitalize you and bring you back. But I understand the drudgery of sometimes of just planning all the minutia of travel. But the joy of it is just being in a new place and having a different perspective and just letting that day take you where it should go.
33:32Rick Steves:I think people do overthink it a lot of times. I remember when I was in my very early days, I would start my lecture by saying, you know, a lot of people, they're at home before their trip, just in the kitchen, just thinking, what can I be worried about next about the trip? You know, it's going to be OK. Just get over there. It's like you're not going to war here. It's just a vacation. You know, I've got phrases and philosophies that I just love in my writing and my teaching. And I'm just going to throw a couple of phrases at you. And I'd love to just get your take on it, if it resonates with you or whatever.
34:02Rick Steves:But I like to say when it comes to travel, if it's not to your liking, change your liking. Yeah, that's a very good, you know, shift your perspective. That's what it's about. And I always love to just the newness of travel, how it opens up other things in your life. So go with it. So, yes, change your liking. That comes from a tour guide's point of view because I can take one group to a spot and they're having a great time. The next group goes to the same spot and they're not having a great time. And a lot of it is the attitude you bring to it. Also, a lot of people are really afraid to make a mistake.
34:34Rick Steves:I say celebrate your mistakes. That's a great one right there. Yeah, I think the goal of travel is never that it's perfect, right? It never goes perfectly. And I think people have this mindset of just everything has to go right. And no, it doesn't. In fact, a lot of times if there's a plan A and that gets shoved to the side, plan B was the better choice and you're just going to go with it. Well, I guess we should have done this. I remember when I was in Japan, Samantha, I was so befuddled. And I just – people could look at me and go, there's a big tall white guy who's lost. And they would come out and help me just right out of the – they would just think, this guy is hopeless.
35:13Rick Steves:And I just laughed at myself in Japan. I was fumbling around Japan. I didn't know the language. I didn't know the characters. I didn't know the culture. And I just enjoyed being befuddled. Yeah, I think that's – you know, it's interesting. When I was in Europe, I felt like I really had to know my stuff because I was an American. and where I'm from, we're kind of of Europe and New England. And that's why I love Asia is because you just have no idea what's going on. And so you just let all of that expectation you think you have of yourself and just have fun. You're five years old. You're a kid. This is all new.
35:50And as long as you're not disrespectful, you're going to be fine.
35:54Rick Steves:One of my new themes is to be a cultural chameleon. Are you a chameleon when you travel? Yes, definitely, in terms of even dress. How so in dress? Well, I always tell people, you know, never wear like Lily Pulitzer orange and pink when you're in Europe. You're just going to stand out. As Americans, we dress brightly. And if you go to Europe, I notice it's much more earth tones. And so there is just an assimilation that you want. Or in Italy, they dress so lovely. So I don't like to look like I'm just schlepping around. I like to really inhabit a place in how they dress. So that is more of a chameleon attitude just in terms of my physical appearance.
36:32Rick Steves:Yeah. Yeah, and you nailed it there. I mean, if you're on a bus in Europe and you look, everybody seems to be dressing in these sort of similar tones, and it's nice to be that chameleon. And I've noticed, too, because sometimes I'm just slumming around backpacker. I'll sit on the floor and gnaw on a sandwich, you know, and I realize I'm not fitting in here. This country takes pride in how they look, and I should get my act together a little bit. When we're traveling, we're always sort of looking to stir up experiences, And I find there's a very fundamental philosophy of if an opportunity presents itself, the answer is yes.
37:08Rick Steves:In so many cases, you're tired, you had something else planned, but here's something really surprising. And you can say yes or no. It seems kind of obvious, but say yes. Yeah. My background is actually acting. And a huge part of that was improvisation. And the rule, one rule of improvisation is you always say yes and. Ha! Yeah, that's improvisation. You never drop the ball. It's yes and. And then that's how you build upon that. So what works for improvisation works for travel. And travel is one big improvisation. You just go with the flow. So, yes. Samantha Brown is the host of the public television series Places to Love.
37:50Rick Steves:And she's joining us now as we talk travel tips. And Samantha invites viewers to discover the emotional heart of travel in her series as she visits destinations all over the world. You can find past episodes of Samantha's program at samantha-brown.com. Our email address is radio at ricksteves.com, and Christine in Shawnee, Kansas, has emailed us, and Christine writes, I love to extend my group trips by a few solo days on each end. Samantha Brown helps me envision what a mature single woman might do in the location. She helps me be a bit more adventurous and bold. After watching Samantha wander around Paris, I set off exploring.
38:34Rick Steves:Stumbling across the same boule players she met near the Eiffel Tower, I struck up a conversation I might have never had and enjoyed some shared laughter over strategies. Thank you, Samantha, for inspiring me to go solo, even if it's just for a few days, on the beginning or the end of a tour that I'll be taking. Wow. Isn't that cool? That's great. Yeah. Yeah, I love when people are inspired. Absolutely. That's what we want. And I also love the fact that the definition of independent traveler has changed. It has evolved. It's not just you are totally on your own backpacking across Europe. Yeah, you can do it.
39:09So you're doing a hybrid model of maybe you're getting comfortable with a group tour, really knowing the sights, and then you feel confident to go out on your own for just two days. That's such freedom, and that's just really using that time worthwhile, making it worthwhile.
39:22Rick Steves:And I encourage that. With our tours, we like it when people go over a couple days early. Of course, they get over jet lag and they're settled by the time the tour starts, but they also get their sea legs or whatever you call it, get their bearings of just not of that country, but of just being away from home in general. And then at the end of the trip, they're eager to have some time on their own. And if you can afford the time, I think that's a great idea. So thanks, Christine, for the email. Stephen in Cudahy, Wisconsin, has emailed us. And Stephen writes, I love travel but hate airports. What are your tips to make time at airports more enjoyable?
39:54Rick Steves:And Samantha, you are a self-described airport geek. So how are you an airport geek and what would you say to Stephen? Stephen, for me, the airport is like a teenage girl mall. For me, I love airports. I just love them. I hate the security line. I hate getting through that. But I feel that while the airplane experience has just gone downhill in terms of treating us not as human beings, The airport experience has gotten better and better in that now airports are bringing in more of the local goods that you would find or even restaurants that you would find, you know, downtown. So you can have a local experience.
40:33You can get a massage. I just like to walk and wander. And I also like to go by gates to see where everyone's going. You know, I think that's really exciting. So I guess that's where the geek comes in. But I think the first thing you need to do to really enjoy an airport is to get there in plenty of time. A lot of times we hate the airport because we haven't allowed enough time to feel, you know, that anxiety comes up. And believe it or not, 22 years of travel, I still feel anxiety to get to the airport and get through. So it never ends. And it's not, you know, it's not because you're not an expert or don't travel as much as we do.
41:07I still have that anxiety. So I always base getting to the airport on the boarding time of my flight, not on the flight departure, because that's 45 minutes before, and that gives me plenty of time when I have that time in mind, not the departure time of my flight.
41:22Rick Steves:I bring stuff to do at the airport and get there early because I don't want to start all stressed out, and I don't want to risk missing the flight, obviously. Yeah. They've got Wi-Fi. They've got seating. They've got great food now. I mean, yeah, you go there, and you do work, and you just get settled, so you're prepared for anything. One of my splurges, it's not very inexpensive, but if I've got a lot of time at an airport, I will pay for the business lounge. And I don't have frequent flyer miles or anything like that, but I can just pay for it. I can make the airport a very relaxing and comfortable and productive and enjoyable time.
41:56Rick Steves:Hey, just quickly to go through flying, how do you prepare for a long flight? I walk a lot. I actually, sometimes I do have access to those lounges and I don't use the lounge. I walk and walk and walk so that when I finally get to my seat, I'm exhausted. But then I have like a tiered approach to I have the serious work that I need to conquer on the flight because I've got dedicated time to do it, which is great. And then I move on to a fun novel, so I'll bring that. And then I have like fashion magazine, you know, candy that needs no brain power whatsoever just to get me through. And that's it.
42:32But I do love long flights because I have time, and I've always found them to be actually quite relaxing.
42:38Rick Steves:Yeah, I like it. Me time. It's rare me time. And the main thing is just to be comfortable and to be busy. Again, I'm going to just go through a whole bunch of tips because we're running out of time here. But window or aisle? Aisle. Why? I hate being trapped. Trapped in. I agree. Feeling trapped. I'm the same. I've migrated from the window to the aisle for that same reason. You're tall, too. Yeah, you need that extra space, Rick. What's your most valued carry-on? What do you be sure to carry on with you? A notebook and pen. Notebook and pen. Okay. Meanderings. My noise reduction headphones, I just...
43:09Oh, true. Nice.
43:11Rick Steves:They help me get some private time, too, because when I'm wearing that, people don't interrupt me. What are your tips for dealing with airline regulations that are frustrating to you? Just like baggage, like how big my bag is, that kind of thing. Yeah, just know what they are and then print them, because I have found that a lot of those airlines, they'll change that now your carry-on has to fit in that, you know, sizer, right? And it has to fit the exact dimensions. But if you're online, it just says something like 44 linear inches. So you could have a bag that's 44 linear inches, but it's not that exact shape.
43:44But they haven't changed the language, and that's not fair. So if you don't have that perfect size bag, but you have 44 linear inches, you have a carry-on bag, bring that, print it, and say, this is what it says on your website. This is 44 linear inches. But yeah, know what the regulations are. Print them just so you have them. And because they're all different and it is frustrating.
44:03Rick Steves:Give me a couple of itinerary tips. How do you plan a smart schedule? Oh, boy, direct when I can. Absolutely. That is the goal. I don't care if it's first class or I'm back by the bathroom. Exactly. I'm the same way. Direct. Exactly. Direct. I think it's worth the money. It's certainly worth your time. Two flights is just that much more frustration. Am I going to make the next flight? What if there's an issue? Will my bags make it? All of that ends when it's a direct flight. Our guest on Travel with Rick Steves is Samantha Brown, the host of the Places to Love travel series on public TV. She streams episodes from her adventures on her website, where she includes notes from filming in Tulsa and in summer mountain getaways in the U.S., Europe, Cuba, and Vietnam.
44:49Rick Steves:That's at Samantha-Brown.com. And Michael in Houston emailed us and asks, What are your tips for handling jet lag? When I arrive early in the morning in Europe, I spend as much time as possible outside walking. Any other tips? I've got a good one. So three days before I leave, I refrain from all caffeine. So it totally leaves my body. Then when I arrive in Europe, and you're usually arriving like what around, like 6 a.m., isn't it, like 7 a.m.? And you're tired and you smell that coffee in the airport, don't get the coffee. Then you get to your hotel and you smell the coffee in your hotel, don't reach for a coffee.
45:23get outside, walk around, and I wait. And I wait until like the muscles in my body have solidified to cement I'm so tired because jet lag can affect you that, you know, drastically. And then and only then will I have a double espresso. And I'll shoot that thing back and man, it hits my system like 10 horses and I go the entire rest of the day. 9 p.m. I'm in bed. I'm asleep. And I have reset my clock.
45:48Rick Steves:That is the most unique, clever approach to jet lag. I don't know if I could go that long without coffee, but I'm... Yeah, it's all the manipulation of coffee. That's right there. Samantha, Eric in Denver emailed us and he says, don't be afraid to book a long layover. On my way back from Scandinavia years ago, I opted for an eight-hour layover in Frankfurt and it allowed me to hit the city and have the best abroad rest of my life. Have you ever thought about long layovers and how you use your time between flights on the way home? Yeah, and depending on the flight, yeah, layovers are good. If you're going to Asia especially, a layover is good because those are long, long flights.
46:23And it's good just to stretch your legs. But it's never an hour and a half. It's always at least three hours. But for the longer ones, yeah, like Sheephole, if you're flying into – if you're going to Europe and you're flying through Sheephole, you can quickly get to Amsterdam, no problem. That's what I did, and that's how I enjoyed that city for the very first time in my 20s, and I loved it.
46:42Rick Steves:If you've never been to Amsterdam and you're flying and you happen to be randomly stopping with six hours at Schiphol, you could do that. I've really never done it because I don't know. Oh, my problem is I never check a bag. So I've always got all my luggage with me. That's why I don't do those. I suppose there's a way to lock it at the airport, but I've never done that. Well, I don't think so. After 9-11, I think those lockers went away. So this was pre-9-11. But if you check your bag, you could do that. But people do it. I think it's a very clever idea. And I'm usually the ballsy one, I think.
47:13Rick Steves:But in this case, I couldn't really relax on the streets of the city knowing I've got a flight in four hours. That's why I did it in my 20s. I don't do it anymore either. That's right. But I think – but if you're doing like a three-hour – like if you're going through these big airports, they're actually really enjoyable. Like if you're in Changi. So spend some time. Enjoy that you really will benefit from that quick, quick connecting flight. Don't do it. Don't do it. Don't do it. Right. Don't do it. Let's see. Just really quickly, when you move into a hotel room, how do you settle into a hotel room?
47:45Rick Steves:Because you spend a lot of nights alone on the road, and your hotel is your home. Oh, yeah. I have a whole system there, too. So every tchotchke that a hotel puts out, sometimes they have those. They're called table tents, those plastic things that put, like, I don't know, drink specials on. Like, I don't care about that. All that stuff goes away. And then this is the thing. I learn how to use the shower because this is my pet peeve of travel. One of them is there are probably four million different combinations of how to turn a shower on in the world. And you will encounter all of them. And it will take you sometimes, especially in Europe, seven minutes just to figure out how to get hot water.
48:22And so I never rely on that the morning of our, you know, like a shoot. So you have to be somewhere. People are counting on you and you're just trying to take a shower. So I do a run through.
48:33Rick Steves:Well, I'm just – it's so much fun, Samantha, to be with you. And one thing is we can laugh about our mistakes and we can enjoy the school of hard knocks as part of the joy of travel. And travel teaches us lessons about how to travel better. But it also teaches us lessons about life, I think. And for me, that could be a good souvenir. Let's wrap up our conversation with what's an important life experience that travel has taught you? Oh, boy. And it's still teaching me is patience. And not everything has to be perfect. It is how you interpret it and approach it and just enjoy it. Go with the flow.
49:13And I feel like you and I are similar. We're perfectionists, especially because this is our profession. But there are times when it really teaches me it's OK. You can just let this happen how it's happening. I think we try to control things, especially Americans, because we come from a really big country with amazing travels within it. But we know the language. We know the currency. We understand a lot of the culture. And we try to bring that same sense of control and certainty to travel. And that's where we make the mistake. And so just to let that go and to trust that that is going to be an amazing experience in itself.
49:50Rick Steves:In itself. You summed it up right there. That's going to be an amazing experience in itself. And if you don't get out there and risk, you know, stumbling, you won't have those experiences. And your trip will come home. Everything worked out fine. And I saw all those sites and I checked off my bucket list. But you didn't have that magic. You didn't make that place a place to love. Samantha Brown, thanks for joining us. Thank you. Travel with Rick Steves is produced by Tim Tatton with Kazma Hall and Donna Bardsley at Rick Steves Europe in Edmonds, Washington. Andrew Wakeling and Sherry Korp upload the shows to our website.
50:25Sheila Gerzoff handles affiliate promotions. Our theme music is by Jerry Frank. Take a look at Rick's list for what to pack in your suitcase and share tips with fellow travelers. It's part of our online travel forum.
50:38Rick Steves:It's at ricksteves.com. We'll see you next week with more Travel with Rick Steves.
51:10Rick Steves:and look into the eyes of the virgin goddess as you stow away with me on the legendary hippie trail. My book, On the Hippie Trail, is available wherever books are sold.
From the publisher
Journalist Eliot Stein takes us along on the unique adventure of kayaking the perimeter of Manhattan Island and observes some of the pockets of nature that persist within New York's concrete jungle. Then a midwestern author shares his lifelong passion for the Mississippi River and delves into the recreational, ecological, and spiritual facets of America's mighty waterway. And TV host Samantha Brown tells Rick how she keeps herself from stressing out over what could go wrong in her frequent travels.
For more information on Travel with Rick Steves - including episode descriptions, program archives and related details - visit www.ricksteves.com.