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Travel with Rick Steves - Episode 807: Islands of Portugal; Easter Island; Endangered Languages
Episode Summary In this episode of *Travel with Rick Steves*, the discussion revolves around the scenic and cultural experiences offered by Portugal's islands, the intriguing history and daily life of Easter Island, and the importance of preserving endangered languages.
Key Themes
- Islands of Portugal: Azores and Madeira
- Description of the Azores and Madeira islands as adventure-lover's paradises known for their stunning natural beauty, mild climates, and cultural richness.
- Discussion with Claudia Costa, a Portuguese guide, who highlights:
- Azores:
- Comprising nine volcanic islands, known for hiking, geothermal hot springs, and whale watching.
- Unique local cuisine influenced by the islands’ climate and agriculture.
- Madeira:
- Known for its wine, festivals, and historical significance.
- Features such as the levadas (irrigation channels) that provide unique hiking experiences.
- Easter Island Insights
- James Grant Peterkin, a cultural historian and linguist, shares his experiences from living on Easter Island for over two decades.
- Key points include:
- The island's isolation and significance of its iconic Moai statues.
- The history of the Rapa Nui people and the resilience of their culture despite past adversities.
- The misconception of Easter Island as a cautionary tale of societal collapse versus its narrative of survival and adaptation.
- Endangered Languages and Their Importance
- Ross Perlin discusses the state of linguistic diversity worldwide, particularly focusing on endangered languages.
- Key discussions around:
- The threats to languages which are often linked to biodiversity loss.
- Efforts to revitalize endangered languages, especially within urban contexts like New York City.
- The cognitive and cultural value of maintaining linguistic diversity.
Detailed Notes
Islands of Portugal
Azores
- Geography: Located about 900 miles off the coast of Lisbon, comprises nine volcanic islands.
- Activities:
- Hiking Mount Pico, Portugal's highest peak.
- Enjoying geothermal hot springs and whale watching.
- Cultural Aspects:
- Unique gastronomy influenced by local products (e.g., pineapple, tea).
- Rich cultural mix due to various historical influences (Jewish, Moorish, Italian, and African).
Madeira
- Location: South of the Azores, closer to Morocco.
- Highlights:
- Known for its unique wine, subtropical climate, and vibrant festivals.
- Historical trails (levadas) offering scenic hiking opportunities.
- Culinary Delights:
- Famous for its fortified wine and diverse local fruits.
Easter Island
James Grant Peterkin's Insights
- Arrival Experience: Comparison of arriving by ship versus plane, emphasizing the isolation of the island.
- Cultural Resilience:
- The island’s history steeped in migration, adaptation, and survival.
- Importance of Moai statues as symbols of ancestral honor rather than mere artifacts of a collapsed society.
Language and Identity
- Peterkin's fluency in Rapa Nui emphasizes the connection between language and cultural identity.
- Discussion on the revitalization of Rapa Nui and its importance to the local community.
Endangered Languages
Ross Perlin's Perspectives
- Current State: Over 7,000 languages exist; many are endangered with fewer than 10,000 speakers.
- Revitalization Efforts:
- Encouragement of intergenerational language transmission.
- Support for communities to revive and modernize languages.
Importance of Linguistic Diversity
- Languages as repositories of culture, history, and knowledge.
- The link between biodiversity and linguistic diversity, highlighting that loss in one often leads to loss in the other.
Cultural Significance
- The value of understanding diverse languages in the context of cultural insights and worldviews.
- Advocacy for fostering a multilingual mindset among communities to appreciate linguistic diversity.
Key Takeaways
- The Azores and Madeira offer rich cultural and natural experiences that make them unique destinations within Portugal.
- Easter Island serves as a powerful example of cultural resilience and the importance of language in preserving identity.
- Endangered languages are crucial to maintaining cultural diversity and understanding human experience, highlighting the need for preservation and revitalization efforts.
Closing Thoughts This episode of *Travel with Rick Steves* invites listeners to reflect on the importance of travel as a means of expanding perspectives, appreciating cultural diversity, and recognizing the deep connections between language, culture, and the natural world.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00Enjoy an island getaway in the North Atlantic to Portugal's Azores and Madeira. All the Portuguese like to go there to the beach to enjoy the good weather because you have good weather all week around. And if you like nature, it's the perfect place to go. Or visit one of the most remote islands in the world. James Grant Peterkin got to know the people and language of Easter Island in the South Pacific. If you arrive by ship from Chile, it's a voyage that'll take five days. Suddenly an island appears in front of you and you get some kind of sense of what the first settlers on Easter Island would have experienced when they first saw it.
0:36And consider how resilient a society can be when it includes a variety of languages and cultures. Ross Perlin suggests that revitalizing languages can open new perspectives into our shared history. With the loss of biodiversity, there is the related loss of linguistic diversity. There's a real connection. Come with us for the hour ahead on Travel with Rick Steves.
1:00There's just something about an island, and that's where we're headed today on Travel with Rick Steves. James Grant Peterkin became one of the few outsiders to learn the language of Rapa Nui. He takes us behind the mysteries of hundreds of large stone figures on Easter Island, and he tells us what it's like to live today on one of the most remote islands of the South Pacific. And Ross Perlin from the Endangered Language Alliance reminds us what we all stand to gain as a society when we encourage people to speak more than one language. Let's start today's travel with Rick Steves on two small island chains in the North Atlantic that lie some 500 to 900 miles from the coast of Portugal.
1:39About a third of the way between Lisbon and Boston, you'll find the Portuguese island group called the Azores. With lush green slopes, dramatic crater lakes, and geothermal hot springs, the Azores are an adventure-lover's paradise. Imagine hiking up Mount Pico, Portugal's highest peak, or spotting whales off the coast while sitting in a hot springs. Further south and closer to Morocco is the island of Madeira, famous for its mild climate, unique wine, vibrant festivals, and the charming streets of Unchal. Both island groups promise a mix of natural beauty and fascinating cultural experiences for travelers.
2:17To help us get to know these far-flung islands of Portugal, I'm joined now by Portuguese guide Claudia Costa. Claudia, thanks for being here. Thank you. Thank you for having me here. It's a pleasure. So now I know you as a guide in Portugal, but of course Madeira and Azores are part of Portugal, right? Yes, correct. So we have two autonomous regions in Madeira, and the Azores are the two autonomous regions that we have. So how do they relate to Portugal? Well, of course, we start talking about these two islands when they were discovered by the Portuguese, end of the 14th, beginning of the 15th century, and then a lot of Portuguese, they love to go there.
2:53Well, honeymoon, my parents, they went to Madeira to honeymoon. It was years ago. But all the Portuguese like to go there to the beach to enjoy the good weather because you have good weather all year round. And if you like nature, it's the perfect place to go. So, of course, Portugal was the great exploring country in so many ways. And the idea was to get around Africa to get to the spices of the east, you know, in India and Southeast Asia. And the first places discovered would have been these islands, I suppose. Exactly. It's interesting just the name of the two islands. Well, the Azores, Azor is a bird.
3:26Right? So that's why we call it that. And then Madeira means wood, because it was a lot of trees. So wood. Wood. Madeira is wood. The island of wood. Exactly. The island of birds. Yeah. Well, that goes back to the early explorers. And each of them are like a group of islands. Yes. They are volcanic. We have nine islands in the Azores. I would say it's not possible to visit all of them. Well, if you stay one month, maybe. In Madeira, we have four islands. but only two we can visit and we have people living there. That is Porto Santo and in Madeira. And both islands, they have about a couple hundred thousand people on them.
4:07So there's enough commerce there. You've got cities, you've got museums, you've got good connections. When you think about Portuguese culture, is it strikingly different? How is Madeira and the Azores different from Portugal? So many people fly from Lisbon to these islands for local holidays. Exactly. What are they looking for? What's the attraction? I think the most important attraction in both of the islands is the nature. Huh. They are very beautiful. The weather isn't nice all year round. Madeira is known also for Cristiano Ronaldo, obviously, the soccer player. He's from Madeira. Oh, he is?
4:44Yes. We have a museum now. In Madeira? Quite recent in Madeira. We cannot forget that when you are in the Azores, or even in Madeira, both islands, you have a kind of tropical weather where you can have, I'm not saying correctly because it's not tropical weather, but you can find products that you don't have in continental Portugal. So the food is slightly different because of that. You have a lot of different kinds of fruits. Madeira is known for bananas, for instance. The Azores is known for pineapple and tea. Let's talk about the Azores then. They're 900 miles off the coast of Lisbon. As you mentioned, nine islands, and then not a lot of people.
5:25No, we have two main cities. One is in Torceira, and the other one is in San Miguel. So they are the two major islands in the Azores. And then there's a lot of back-and-forth culturally, with navigators and settlers and Jews and Moors and Italians and Africans. and so you have an interesting mix of culture and language and cuisine and traditions. Exactly. Now, what are the highlights of Azores? Because I know there's some geothermal hot springs that people just love, which is sort of on the beach like a tide pool, and with the tide coming in and going out, you have a crazy mix of geothermal hot water and salt water from the sea.
6:07But when you go there, don't use your brand new sewing path because it's going to be dark, brown, because the water is brown. Is that right? Oh, my goodness. Well, that's good advice. But it's a nice experience. It looks like very exotic, an exotic bath. And then I mentioned earlier that the highest mountain in Portugal was Mount Pico. Well, that is on the Azores or the island called Pico. Exactly. And is that just like the mountain comes right up from the seabed straight up like in Hawaii, I think on the Big Island it's one. And you should be very lucky when you go there because it's a lot of fog.
6:44You know, you have to know which time of the year you have to go because it's possible to do a beautiful trail up to the Pico. But sometimes you arrive just there and you cannot walk because there is a big fog and you don't see it. So the fog can mess up the travelers. So you've worked as a tour guide on the Azores. Tell us why people would hire you and what you would show them. Mostly I was working with Portuguese, right? So not with foreigners. Not too many, probably more Portuguese tourists there. Yes, now it's changed a little bit. But what the Portuguese people were looking for was peace, nature, those who like sports, hiking, it's a perfect place.
7:24Beautiful, lush, like very green and lush hikes. What about just hanging out on the beach? Oh, yes. It's wonderful because the temperature of the water is warmer than in continental Portugal. Really, in the middle of the Atlantic. I wouldn't have thought that. This is Travel with Rick Steves. we're exploring the stunning Azores and Madeira Islands of Portugal with our guide, Claudia Costa, right now. Claudia was raised near the university town in Coimbra. She's been leading tours around Portugal for 20 years, and that includes taking people around the Azores. You can hear more of our interviews with Claudia at ricksteves.com slash radio.
7:59Tell me about if you were taking a group to the Azores, what wine and what food would you want to be sure to experience? In the Azores, you have a beautiful, well, it's the vineyards. that they produce a very popular wine that is called Legido. And it's done in the volcanic floor, in the lava. So it's UNESCO site, by the way. It's a very specific wine. You have to try it while you were there. But most of the people, they say, ah, it's okay. Yeah. It's a memory to have some local wine. But it sounds like this Cozido das Vernas. What does that mean literally? Cozido das Furnas is because they use, well, let's say the chimneys, where you have the hot...
8:46You have that volcanic activity. That's why you've got that mineral springs that people love to go soak in. Exactly. It's beautiful. This is the island in San Miguel. You can even cook on the floor. They put pots and pans and they do the famous cozido. And then you have, when you eat that cozido, You have that, say, mineral taste on your food, and it's just wonderful. Nice. And let's talk about adventure sports a little bit. Well, usually what I really recommend people, well, have a few things that you can do, especially sports water, and you can even see the whales and the dolphins and all that.
9:22But I believe that the best thing to do in the Azores is to do trekking, to walk, to discover the island on your foot. I think is one of the most important sports that you can do in the Azores. Now let's talk about Madeira. That's where your mom and dad had their honeymoon. So what's the romantic appeal of Madeira? Because it's more off the coast of Morocco, so it's south of the Azores. I would say, well, if you ask me, Claudia, do you prefer Madeira or the Azores? I would say that I prefer the Azores for the thing that is less touristy. Now Madeira is becoming very popular because of the flowers.
10:00festivities is beautiful. It's the beginning of spring. Also, New Year is also very popular. But people like also to go to Madeira to, I don't know if you heard about this, the word levada. Levada is to do the trails where the water used to be conducted. So it's a wonderful place to hike. So this was historically they would have some irrigation plan or something and today it's not functioning anymore? No. but I really highly recommend you to have someone experienced that will guide you on the trails. On the trails, the lavada, L-E-V-A-D-A. Okay, so in the couple minutes we have left, I would love to talk about food and I'd love to talk about adventure sports.
10:43Yes, well, of course, you have to, we have to talk about the very famous Madeira wine. Ah, that's right. That is like the port. It's a fortified wine. The fortified wine, it's a kind of port. Exactly. From Madeira. And it's a beautiful wine. Well, it's known all over the centuries and the world. There are four kinds of Madeira wine. It's also a sweet wine, and it's very popular. And you can visit the Madeira Wine Museum in Funchal. So it's a good experience as well. But you also have a lot of fruits that you can also experience. You cannot forget that in Madeira, in the Azores, they have good meat, and especially in the Azores, you'll have dairy products because they have a lot of cows, epic cows everywhere.
11:24And are there beach resorts in Madeira just like in the Azores? Oh, yes. So you've got this lush flora and lush vegetation. You've got beautiful walks through these jungle-like environs. You've got beautiful beaches, and you can have fun there, and typical water sports that you'd find in a resort. And you can have a very funny experience in Madeira. Well, you can use the cable car to go up to Monte, and then instead of walking down, you can use the wild tobogans. What is that? We have a crazy driver. It's like a basket. You are two people sit on those big baskets, and they drive you down the hill.
12:01It's a wild experience. It's very funny. Really very funny. Wait a minute. Tell me this again. I have a hard time imagining this. There's a driver? Yeah, it's called Sextas. Sextas is like really imagine a basket, and you put people inside, usually two, and they will drive you down the hill from the monte. But your basket is on a little truck or something? No, just there, just on the floor, and they will drive you down like a toboggan, and it's a wild experience. Or like a toboggan. Yeah, and then when you arrive down, you have to drink a poncha. A poncha is a very typical drink there that is done with the sugar cane and then passion fruit.
12:39Right. And then because you are just, oh, my gosh, I survived this. It's a very wild experience. Everybody experienced that. And this is in Madeira? Madeira, yeah. What is the name of that again? Cestas. How do you spell that? Cestas. C-E-S-T-A-S. That's plural. Cestas. Okay, we've got to remember that. Claudia, thank you for giving us a little peek at two distant corners of Portugal that are quite different from Portugal, the Azores and Madeira. Thank you. You'll find links to our guests with the notes we provide for each week's show. That's at ricksteves.com slash radio. While it's not quite the most remote island on Earth, Easter Island is still so far from any other land that it's long been considered one of the most mysterious islands in the world.
13:25We'll hear what it's like to live there next on Travel with Rick Steves. In a far-flung corner of the South Pacific, five days by boat from the nearest continent is one of the most enigmatic and remote places on Earth. Famed for its towering statues, Easter Island has long held a fascination far larger than its tiny size. Many view it as a cautionary tale of social collapse, but cultural historian James Grant Peterkin, who spent two decades living among the island's Rapa Nui people, has come to a different conclusion. From learning the language and the oral traditions, James believes the story of Easter Island is one of survival, adaptation, and resilience.
14:07And he joins us now to help uncover the true stories behind Easter Island's fascinating past. James, thanks so much for being here. Thank you very much for having me. Yeah, so Easter Island, it's like the epitome of remote, isn't it? I mean, really five days by ship to get there. Is there an airport or do you actually have to go there by a five-day boat ride? No, no, there's an international airport and it still takes more than five hours to fly there, but it gives you a sense of just how remote and isolated Easter Island really is. I bet it gives you a better appreciation of that when you take the five-day ride from Chile.
14:42Yeah, so you get, I mean, you get wonderful days at sea. And then, of course, after five days at sea, suddenly an island appears in front of you. And you get some kind of sense of what the first settlers on Easter Island would have experienced when they first saw it. Land ho. Boy, that's just classic. Now, we're talking to you from Scotland right now, right? Now, how did a Scottish linguist become so enchanted by an island in the South Pacific? I was very fortunate because I was at university in England specializing in linguistics. and I had the opportunity to go and study an unusual language anywhere in the world.
15:15And I'd always been curious about Easter Island. And I thought, well, this was my chance to go and spend one year living on this extremely unusual island. And so I spent one year there as part of my studies and then went back and ended up spending about 19 years more after that. Wow. So are you fluent in the language? Yes. So, I mean, I learned Rapa Nui and Spanish alongside it because those are the two languages spoken on Easter Island today. And so in order to be able to really study the linguistic situation, I had to learn both. How many people speak Rapa Nui? So there's probably about 5 ,000 speakers in the world, of which all except maybe half a dozen of us are indigenous Easter Islanders.
15:59Half a dozen. So just a handful of people have actually invested what it takes to learn that language that only a few thousand people speak. Yes, because it's not an easy language to learn, but more than that, there's no real need to speak it unless you're living on Easter Island. So, James, if we think about this island, the history is just fascinating. And you review that in your book, of course, A Companion to Easter Island. You know, 1 ,500 years ago or so, Polynesian voyagers arrived. The statue carvings kicked off in what we would think of as the Middle Ages, you know, 1 ,000 years ago. The Europeans arrived in the 1700s, Captain Cook in 1774, and then the islanders have something goes on and they start toppling their statues, and then a slave raid by Peruvians, and then the missionaries come, and in 1800s it gets down to only about 100 people on the island, and then it's annexed by Chile, and then it gets part of the World Heritage Site at UNESCO, and what a story, huh?
17:05Well, it's incredible. I mean, for a small island in what we could really say the middle of nowhere, the island has been subjected to all kinds of different settlements, arrivals of short-term visitors. It's got everything, really. So isolated and so small. What, 64 square miles, 2 ,000 miles off the coast of Chile. Today, the only town, Hangaroa. What's the population of the island and the town? So the island now is at about 9 ,000 people permanently living on Easter Island. And 90 % of them are in the one town, I would imagine. Yes. What's that town like? Is it a poverty-stricken town that has no skyline and no elevators, or is it a modern little port?
17:48No, it's an interesting mix because, I mean, one of the great rules on Easter Island is that you can't build higher than the palm trees. So there are no buildings any higher than one or two stories. but because you've got this active tourism on the island, you've got visitors coming from all over the world who want to see the Moai and want to learn about the culture, it's actually a surprisingly cosmopolitan small place because you've got this fascinating mix of outsiders coming in from all over the world, and you've got then a local community and local population who are well-travelled themselves now, very proud of their history and their culture, and so it actually provides a really pleasant place to live, which was, of course, one of the reasons why I stayed there for so long.
18:29Why one year became 20 years on your visit. Is the economy dominated by tourism? It is now. I would say one of the main change that I saw during that 20-year period was that when I first went there, there wasn't really much tourism. And by the time I left, it was, I mean, tourism is probably 85 % of the island's economy today. This is Travel with Rick Steves. We're getting a look at Easter Island today with author and cultural historian James Grant Peterkin. In 1996, James first visited Easter Island as a young linguist, and he ended up staying 20 years, becoming one of the few outsiders to learn the native Rapa Nui language.
19:07James now runs a private tour company on the island part of the year and gives history lectures on cruise ships for the other part of the year. James is the author of A Companion to Easter Island, and his website is jamesgrantpeterkin.com. Of course, Easter Island is famous for the Muay statues. Now, you write in your book, a thousand of these survive. Just what is with these statues? Describe them and give us the context. So there are these incredible, enormous stone carvings that represented important ancestors. And this was really the point, that in Polynesian cultures, they honored important ancestors by building representations of them, normally small stones or platforms and things like this.
19:54And it's just that on Easter Island, this particular art form and this belief system develops unlike anywhere else in the Pacific. And so you end up with almost a thousand statues today scattered around the island, each one representing an important ancestor from the past. So people take it upon themselves, like a family or a clan, to honor some ancestor with one of these statues? Yes. So the thinking is that when an important person, an important member of the society died, that his or her ancestors would go to this quarry that they all shared and would carve a representation of this person, transported across the island back to their home village and erected in such a way that you had your ancestor watching over you on a day-to-day basis.
20:42You've got beautiful photographs of these in your companion guide to Easter Island, and they don't seem to have individual characteristics. Or was there some attempt to actually portray this in a realistic way? Or are they just figures symbolizing a person? Well, yes, they clearly all share one style. But actually, when you see two Moai next to each other, you do begin to notice very small, distinct differences between them. or you get markings on them to represent tattoos that they had during their lifetime. And it looks like they're mostly like portrait busts, shoulders and head. Is that all they sculpted or are these just the tips of these?
21:19They all go down to their waist. And the idea was that these statues weren't just representations of ancestors. They actually possessed the spiritual power that these important ancestors also had in their lives. A word in Polynesian called manna. and that that manna was always kept in the person's head and upper body, and therefore the Moai don't have legs. Huh. Now, for some reason in the 1700s, the islanders started topping these things off and destroying them. What was going on then? Well, what we know, we don't know the exact reason why, but there was an island-wide rejection of this belief system, of this religion, if you like.
22:01Tribes began to fight amongst each other. we presume because of a lack of resources. And one of the net results of this intertribal warfare was that every single statue got toppled from its platform that it was standing on. James Grant Peterkin left Scotland to become one of the few people to study the Rapa Nui language of Easter Island in the South Pacific. He's authored a guidebook called A Companion to Easter Island and written a collection of tales to enhance your journey in the South Pacific, South America, and when crossing the Atlantic Ocean. James also posts his TED Talk about living on Rapa Nui on his website, along with his schedule of lectures on cruise ships and on land.
22:45It's at jamesgrantpeterkin.com. So as a scholar and a linguist who comes in and settles on this island, I bet there's just so many examples of how you can learn about how societies evolve when you study a small, isolated community. Well, that's why Easter Island is from an academic point of view. That's why it is so interesting. I mean, it's almost like a perfect scientific experiment where you get a small island with limited resources, a human population that begins to grow, and you can basically then watch how it plays out. Now, one of the main issues that you talk about in the book is this misconception in your mind that Easter Island is a story of catastrophic societal collapse.
23:28So what is the misconception that people have and where does that come from? And then why do you think it's wrong? Well, I think is that people have always seen these images of toppled statues, which of course, you know, they spell sort of destruction and collapse of a great culture. It's just that when people began, so the easy narrative was always that here was a remote island, the population grew too fast, they got greedy, that, you know, they were building larger and larger statues to honor their deceased ancestors. And it came to a crashing point, a tipping point, and the rest therefore played out as people think.
24:04So this whole notion then that it's an example of catastrophic societal collapse is drawn just by noticing that, oh, 300 years ago they started destroying their own statues. Yes, and so for books, particularly Jared Diamond's book Collapse, for which Easter Island is really the main story, it's the opening chapter, it fills a very easy narrative when looked at slightly superficially from the outside. But I think what's happened is the academic community has slightly altered its stance and more modern scientific techniques have come in that actually have begun to tell a slightly different and much more positive optimistic story.
24:42So there was some social turmoil that happened 300 years ago that caused people to question one tenant of their faith. And that's far from a catastrophic social collapse. That's just an anomaly that happens in the story of that island. What do you see as the positive character of Easter Island through the generations? Well, I think the fact that the human population on the islands, of course, never disappeared. They never exterminated themselves, as people sometimes erroneously believe. The fact that the language and the culture and the oral history are all very much alive and we hope well today.
25:22And so this idea that they would be unable to see the tragedy that was playing out by using all of their resources, cutting down all of the trees on the island, which we know did happen, but there clearly was more understanding. I mean, this was an incredibly developed people who discovered the island, settled the island. And the population actually got down to about 100 people and then turned the corner. And now it's up to nearly 10 ,000. Did they replenish their population just by, you know, having families and children over the generations? Or was that immigrants that came in? So it's been a mix of both.
26:00when that census was done in the late 19th century that counted just 111 people on the island. They'd actually taken some of the islanders away at that point because they thought that the population was doomed on Easter Island. The population slowly retook. But in the last 30, 40 years, there's been an enormous migration from mainland Chile, particularly, where people have come and settled on the island. And that's why today's population is about 50 % indigenous Rapa Nui people and about 50 % Chileans primarily. But does that mean that Chileans are just bullying over the island or is it still Rapa Nui dominant?
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26:38No, I mean, it's still very much all of the people in high positions are all Rapa Nui. They've now actually changed the rules that mean that Chileans can no longer settle on Easter Island, which has been quite a contentious political change. I bet. But the idea was to try and prevent this dilution of the culture to a point where it almost vanished. This is Travel with Rick Steves. We're speaking with James Grant Peterkin. And we're looking at the myths and the mysteries of Easter Island, which is his adopted home now for 20 years. James is the author of A Companion to Easter Island. You can find out more about James and his recent work as a history lecturer on cruise ships and his study of Easter Island in the notes to this week's show at ricksteves.com slash radio.
27:23Hey, James, this is so interesting, this story of this community over the centuries. Now, of course, a big part of the economy is tourism. Tell us just very, very briefly, what's the best way to visit? And when you get there, what do you do? So I think without a doubt, the best way if you really want to see Easter Island is to fly there. There are now pretty much daily flights from Santiago in Chile. Yes, it takes over five hours to get there, but that is the only real way to get to the island and to therefore begin an exploration of this incredible island. So you settle into the main town of 8 ,000 people or so, and it's a small island, 64 square miles.
28:06And I would imagine you've got a checklist of sites, natural wonders, the flora, the fauna, the archaeological dimensions, the thousand-year-old statues, and the contemporary culture. What kind of contemporary culture would you see if you wanted to get into the Rapa Nui people? So this is what sometimes surprises people, because they go to Easter Island expecting to see a few heads, as they call them, and think that that's pretty much all that the island offers. What people forget is that there is this vibrant, very much living society there, and therefore you can see the traditional dances, for example, that are performed there.
28:41You can listen to the music. It's all very much, as with any island in Polynesia, this is a very important part of the culture today. And so, yes, of course, you want to go and see the statues, but this is why I always say to people, you know, go for at least three or four days because what you really want to do is to get into this fascinating society that's on this extremely isolated island. Now, I understand, according to your book, there's just six or eight dockings of cruise ships a year. So the cruise ships don't inundate the place like you might expect. No, they don't. And this is really because there's no port on Easter Island, meaning that it's a tender port and conditions sometimes aren't particularly good on the island.
29:23And so it's why it's a big risk if you go by cruise ship that you could sail for five days and not actually be able to set foot on Easter Island, which is why I always tell people to. Right. I've been in the Caribbean when there's just a little chop and they can't send the tenders in. Yes. And so people never expect it. So you sail for five days and you get there and the captain says, sorry, you can't go ashore. I've been on ships where that happens and you almost get a mutiny on board. OK, I'm going to fly there. You then have to sail for three or four more days to get to your next island. Crazy.
29:52Yeah. Would you say it's as expensive as Chile or as expensive as Scotland when you visit? It's even more expensive than Chile. And it's getting to European prices, if not more for some things, because everything has to be flown into Easter Island. And so food's expensive. Anything that's not produced locally is expensive. But that said, you get wonderful fish, you know, that's been in the water that morning and you're eating it that evening. So it's a wonderful experience. And when I fly in and catch a cab and go to my hotel and then decide to walk in through the town, am I going to get a warm welcome or what are people going to think of when they see me walking down the street of their little town?
30:32It's a very welcoming community. I mean, thousands of miles from anywhere. So anyone that comes to Easter Island and is respectful of the culture, respectful of the archaeology, gets an extremely warm welcome. And I always say to people, if you can learn a few words of Rapa Nui, even better. I was going to say, if I was in Hawaii, I would know to say aloha. What would I say? In Rapa Nui. So you would greet everyone by saying, Eorana, and that would be a general greeting to say both hello and goodbye. And you could perhaps say to someone, Pehe Koe, and that's how are you? And they would be bowled over by the fact that you spoke a few words of Rapa Nui because most people arrive there without a single word.
31:09Pehe Koe. That's very good. Eorana. Eorana, yeah. I could do it. All right. Hey, well, James Grant Peterkin, thank you so much for joining us. I feel like I've had a little quick visit to Easter Island. Thanks for writing your book, A Companion to Easter Island, and good luck with your guiding and your teaching. Thank you for having me. Iorana. It's not often that we get two linguists in on one hour of Travel with Rick Steves. But joining us next from the middle of a completely different island, Ross Perlin of the Endangered Language Alliance in Manhattan tells us why having many languages in a city like New York is good for all of us and how learning to understand a language other than English or Spanish can open you up to new ways of looking at the world around you.
31:56That's just ahead on Travel with Rick Steves. Mina Soraya, we come from Suriname and I crys with Rick Steves. I'm Soraya from Suriname and that was Surinameese for I travel with Rick Steves. Mina Soraya, I crys with Rick Steves. Thank you. Grand tangy. Bon day! It's amazing to think that there are over 7 ,000 languages spoken on this planet. I've long heard that about half of them are endangered, expected to die out by the end of the century. And I've wondered, why does this matter? Up next, we're joined by Dr. Ross Perlin. He's a linguist who teaches at Columbia University and who spearheads the nonprofit Endangered Languages Alliance to help document, map, and preserve these dying languages.
32:48He joins us now for a look at the linguistic diversity on our planet, the troubling trends, why it matters, and what the future holds. Ross, thanks for joining us. Thank you, Rick. Now, your fascinating book, Language City, is all about the linguistic situation in New York, past, present, and future. But it's also about the state of languages more broadly. Give us an overview about the current state of human languages globally. Broadly speaking, the 7 ,000 plus languages in the world are in trouble. As many as half are considered by linguists to be endangered, have fewer than 10 ,000 speakers, and are not being passed on or very barely being passed on to children, which is the sort of key thing, intergenerational transmission for any language.
33:35Now, it's happening for a variety of reasons. Some of these trend lines go back for centuries. We could talk about that. There's fewer than 200 nation states in the world. They tend to have their one official language in many cases. Most of those are pretty new, those nation states, as, you know, in their current form, whereas these languages stretch back thousands of years historically. So we could talk about all those causes, but the net effect is that, you know, linguistic diversity is very much threatened. But there are some hopeful signs that I think need to be kind of mentioned in counterbalance.
34:05One is what I discuss in my book, Language City, which is that endangered language speakers are on the move and they're coming to cities like New York and new creative possibilities, working with linguists, working with artists, policies, all kinds of things are happening through that as people come to cities and are in new environments and can sort of find ways to kind of modernize their languages and also revive their languages as well. We're in a bit of a golden era for language revitalization. So just because languages are endangered and are kind of begin to dwindle doesn't mean that a concerted effort by a community and usually some bold activists can't sort of bring it back to a new generation.
34:43So we're seeing now hundreds of those programs as well. You know, you're a linguist. You've dedicated your career and so much study to the value of linguistic diversity. But a lot of people could really care less. They just kind of wish everybody spoke English. What would you tell somebody like that? Why do endangered languages matter? Why should we care if one dies? You sometimes hear people think that if we all spoke, you know, English or one single language, there would be peace on earth and everything would be fine. I think there's a lot of evidence to show that that would not be the case, right?
35:17Think of so many civil wars, think of so many conflicts between people who speak the same language. So that's, it's no guarantee. And actually think of all the sort of good relations and peaceful relations between people who have, you know, their different languages, but are able to sort of meet in the middle. They have through interpretation, translation, or just, you know, a lingua franca are able to get along just fine. So I don't think one language would bring peace on earth. Would it bring some efficiencies? Perhaps in some cases, in some ways, but at what cost? The 7 ,000 plus languages that we have in the world are a repository of the history of human cultures and of every kind of knowledge, artistic, scientific, linguistic, the sort of expressions, the grammar, what we understand about the nature of human communication.
36:03There's just sort of so much in there that you can't just try to sort of translate or flatten out, but that, you know, has to be sort of living and breathing. And from a linguistic point of view, they're all equal, cognitively speaking. What do you mean by equal, cognitively speaking? Well, there's sometimes a perception that just because a language is oral, primarily oral, or it's spoken by less powerful people, or maybe fading out, that it somehow is broken or can't express complex thoughts just because it doesn't have a word for iPhone. Well, none of us had a word for iPhone 20 years ago. What I mean is really that if you look at it from the perspective of linguistic structure and the grammar and what the languages can do, every language learned by a native speaker, I'm not talking about something you learn as a second, you know, if you learn it as a second or third language, of course, you might lack some aptitude in it and not be able to express certain things.
36:53But native languages as spoken by native speakers are fully sophisticated vehicles for the expression of all the things people need to talk about in daily life. and they can borrow words if they need to. That's something I've often wondered. I'm sort of proud of English, you know, and I've been raised, and it's an ethnocentric or linguistocentric way of looking at it, but I've been raised to think that my language is really good if you're a poet and you want to describe something. You wrote that English adds like 8 ,000 words a year to our language, and that in itself is a bigger vocabulary than some aboriginal languages have in total.
37:30It just seems like there must be a qualitative difference from one language to the other to share thoughts as people become more sophisticated, but that's probably an ethnocentric viewpoint. Well, I love English as well. It's my mother tongue. I think actually its greatest characteristic is perhaps that it is sort of accommodating and kind of welcoming to words from all over. Now, those words still are coming from somewhere, so actually we're drawing in that richness from elsewhere. I think some have estimated that actually the sort of core vocabulary of English that actually stretches back to the Anglo-Saxons is only like, you know, 30 percent of what we use or something like that.
38:07So, but of course, the words we use most commonly and the actual words most people are using most of the time are still kind of those core words. And most people, you know, hear or speaking English or speaking another language, they're still using kind of the same number of words in many cases. So the number of words that appear in the Oxford English Dictionary, that might reflect some theoretical thing, but it doesn't necessarily reflect the competence of the average speaker. You know, we understand the value of diversity when it comes to ecosystems and biodiversity. As a linguist, do you see a relation between a healthy environment in an ecosystem kind of way in that world of linguistics?
38:45There are striking parallels. And many have talked about linguistic diversity in terms of biodiversity and linguistic ecologies. Similarly, where having a monoculture is not healthy, but actually having variety makes the whole system stronger. And indeed, the linguistic hotspots around the world closely correspond to the biodiversity hotspots. And there are reasons for that in those environments. and those languages also encode and talk about and have vocabulary that, of course, we don't have in English to describe those systems and those places. So, yeah, there are close connections. And, of course, with the sort of loss of biodiversity, there is the related loss of linguistic diversity.
39:25There's a real connection. And there's different cultural characteristics of different societies and languages, I would imagine, would evolve to gear up to that. I mean, in a very simplistic way. we always hear Eskimos would have more ways to say ice and snow and French would have more ways to say kiss. It's just kind of fun to think that some languages put more energy into this and some, because of their circumstances, put more energy into that. As a linguist, do you feel like there's a quarry of cultural insights that are hiding out in these languages, that we can learn more about different cultures?
40:02And that's one reason to protect them because we lose that connection from where we came. On the one hand, there's, you know, sometimes the sort of the old saw about the Inuit words for snow or other things can be exaggerated, but the basic truth is certainly there, that languages encode the things that matter to their speakers and that their speakers experience in their environment. You know, hunter-gatherer languages have often, you know, spoken by hunter-gatherer peoples, have really rich vocabularies that would help you hunt and gather in those environments and words for smells and words for things that we just wouldn't even have or think about.
40:40So it really is a deep insight into ways of life and historical patterns, and it's just a sort of a gateway into a whole world. Dr. Ross Perlin is a linguist and translator and co-director of the Endangered Language Alliance and teaches at Columbia University. He's with us today on Travel with Rick Steves to update us on the state of endangered languages around the world. Ross profiles New York residents who are working to document and revive their own native languages before they disappear. It's in his book called Language City, the fight to preserve endangered mother tongues in New York. He has more about linguistic diversity on his website, rossperlin.com, and that's P-E-R-L-I-N.
41:25Can you talk about a few cases where governments have politicized it and actually tried to kill languages? You know, language policy is a whole kind of interesting field unto itself that people often don't think about how governments really shape this stuff. And indeed, you know, so often it's really been ham handed and it's been kind of language oppression, whether it's looking at, you know, the treatment of Kurdish speakers in Turkey who really were not, you know, not only not encouraged to speak their language or given any resources, but actually could be, you know, locked up or in serious trouble for speaking it.
41:58But Basque and Catalan in Spain under Franco. That's right. Under Franco, any minority languages of Spain like Basque and Catalan were strongly repressed. And, you know, this takes so many forms. If you look at the history of Native American languages in the U.S. as well, particularly the boarding schools, the residential schools, those were places where often, you know, the language was beaten out of kids and they really were pressured to switch to English. So this is a common story in so many places. And I do hope now that we're sort of turning the corner on that. I don't know that it's going to be everywhere.
42:26There's a lot of variation, but hopefully some places are sort of kind of trying to actually give some support to the languages in each place. Well, this is very interesting to me because, you know, my beat is Europe. And Europe has, with the European Union now, these small languages have had a new lease on life because it's not Basques and Catalans against Madrid, you know, and it's not Britain people against Paris. But it is Britain people as part of Europe. Britain meaning Brittany. and Basque being that little country that didn't get its country, what do they call it, a nation without a state, and where the government up until now has just said, well, here's the line, you speak French and you speak Spanish, but no, we're Basque.
43:08But with the EU, that's been accepted now. And I think around the world, we've got this very interesting thing of languages actually being reborn. I mean, you write about it in your book, Maori, Welsh, Hawaiian. Talk about some of the success stories of the smaller languages. There are an increasing number of success stories. Some of the ones you just mentioned are some of the kind of amazing cases. A lot of people know the story of Hebrew, which had ceased really to be a spoken language for most people over 2 ,000 years, but was sort of revived as a daily spoken language with the sort of lead-up to the founding of the State of Israel just in the first half of the 20th century.
43:50And that is now a native language for millions of people. with Welsh, it's extraordinary that right there, kind of in right next to English, this language has survived and thrived. The cases of Maori and Hawaiian really in the last half century through language nests, as they're called, sort of like preschools. And then, you know, the Hawaiian language revivalists have built up a whole education system in Hawaiian when that language had been sort of driven to the brink. So there's a number of these cases now that are quite extraordinary and show that it's not some inevitable thing that only a few languages are going to sort of triumph, but that actually this multiplicity can be very much a part of modern life and that people can have these many languages in their lives.
44:33This is Travel with Rick Steves. We're joined today by Dr. Ross Perlin. His book, Language City, explores the hundreds of languages spoken in New York City and how they represent both the world's linguistic diversity and the urgent need to preserve and document the linguistic riches on our planet. That's what Ross Perlman writes about in his book, and that's what his nonprofit, the Endangered Language Alliance, focuses on. That website is ELAlliance.org. Ross, I am so fascinated at this thought that you've got half of all the languages on the planet have less than 10 ,000 speakers, and at what point does a small language become terminally ill?
45:14Or in other words, what are the critical little features that can keep a language, even if it's small, vibrant? The number of speakers is, you know, sort of seems like a common sense kind of way of evaluating the health of a language, but really even more important than that is intergenerational transmission. If you have even one generation where no children are being taught the language by their parents or caregivers, that really can set the language on a terminal course. What about a society where you, if you have journalism, a newspaper, television, media, the language taught in schools, is that something that people who want to intervene realize is important to have a foundation?
45:56Or is it really just having that intergenerational spirit, that esprit de corps for the language? You know, all of the sort of media education, official support, those things I think certainly help. There's certainly a sign of linguistic vitality, and there is a whole scale by which linguists can try to evaluate the endangerment level of a different language, and those things all weigh into it. But I think many would agree, and I certainly feel, that the home is the fundamental space for a language. And that's the attitude of the parents, because in a lot of cases, I think parents, because they love their children, they wrongly or rightly decide, no, you're going to learn English or you're going to learn Mandarin, you know.
46:36it might be out of fear of reprisals or economic disadvantage. It's an understandable feeling. You know, in many cases, they themselves have been made to feel shame or feel that their horizons have been limited by speaking a smaller language. So I think, you know, it's important to support those parents in their choices so that they actually can give the linguistic future that they want to give. I think most parents, you know, given a really level playing field, would certainly pass on, you know, their mother tongue, would have an affection for and pass on their mother tongue to their kids. It's only when it's really stacked against them that they would not do that.
47:09And related to that, you write in your book, Language City, about the onslaught of, quote, killer languages, you know, the ultimate sort of consolidation where in the future the entire world might speak Spanish and Chinese and English. I mean, killer languages sounds like a rough term. And obviously, you know, there's nothing. It's nothing about the languages themselves. But, yeah, if their speakers and their institutions kind of push these languages to the exclusion of others, that's, you know, building up resentment. That's killing off the richness of so many other languages. You know, I think that's a problem.
47:42So it's about finding a balance between, you know, this linguistic diversity of the planet, which has held for thousands of years, and the usefulness of having some lingua francas for certain things. It's so interesting how you report on the fact that there's hundreds of languages that have just a handful of speakers, and they're on the way to going extinct. And these little languages, which used to be the foundation of a culture, they die without a whimper. Almost nobody notices except linguists like you. Tell me just the emotional feeling you have when you realized this language was alive last year and today.
48:22It's gone totally. It's the languages that are most endangered about which we know the least and which have, you know, in many cases not been documented at all. We have very few recordings. And, you know, the idea just emotionally speaking that you'll no longer be able to hear that language, learn from that language, hear the stories in that language, understand the worldview that is encoded in it and part of it is just, you know, one linguist described it as like a bomb being dropped on the Louvre. I think that's what we're talking about. If your heart breaks for the looting of a great museum in a war or something like that, as mine does, I think if we are more sensitive about linguistic diversity, it should break the same way when these languages die.
49:05As you talk about, Ross Perlin, in your book, Language City, just for a final thought, it seems like it's your mission driven here to raise people's appreciation of the value of linguistic diversity. Most of us are sort of predisposed to be monolingual in our mindset. How can we cultivate a multilingual mindset, even if we're only fluent in one language? I was raised with one language pretty much. Many, of course, especially in the U.S., English speakers are raised monolingually, and then we kind of sometimes break our heads against other languages, and we're like, oh, that's just not going to be easy for me to learn.
49:46And that's understandable. You know, it's great to try. It's amazing that, you know, now with tools like Duolingo, people are really, you know, you see how much people want to do this, and that's a wonderful thing. But, yeah, even, you know, failing that, I think it's still important to have that multilingual mindset where you recognize and respect and pick up a few words of other languages and just sort of enjoy them being around and not to feel fearful that, oh, this, you know, why don't they speak my language? but to say, you know, to enjoy it and to understand that it's just as much a part of the world's kind of diverse ways of being as different foods or different musics and so on.
50:22We can celebrate it. Dr. Ross Perlin, thanks for writing Language City and best luck with your work at Endangered Language Alliance. Thanks for being with us. Thank you. Travel with Rick Steves is produced by Tim Tatton, Kaz Muralhall and Donna Bardsley at Rick Steves Europe and Edmonds, Washington. Affiliate relations are by Sheila Gerzoff. Website uploads are by Andrew Wakeling and Sherry Court. Our theme music is by Jerry Frank. Find links to our guests and search the show archives at ricksteves.com slash radio. We'll see you next week with more Travel with Rick Steves. Hey, I'm Rick Steves.
51:01I teach Europe, TV shows, guidebooks, and bus tours. And I wrote a book called Travel as a Political Act as well because I've learned that the very best souvenir is a broader perspective. You can broaden yours by watching my travel specials. TV shows on Iran, Palestine, Israel, the story of fascism in Europe, that'll blow you away, and Hunger and Hope, lessons learned in Ethiopia and Guatemala. I've got shows ranging from Martin Luther and the Reformation all the way to Cuba. I love how 1 ,400 years ago, Mohammed said, don't tell me how educated you are, tell me how much you've traveled. You can stream these shows and many more for free at ricksteves.com.
From the publisher
A Portugal tour guide describes the scenic and culinary rewards that await visitors to the country's mid-Atlantic island getaways. Then a Scotsman who spent over two decades living on Easter Island takes us behind the mysteries of its famous stone figures and shares what daily life is like in the remote outpost. And a New York linguist reminds us of the benefits of preserving our world's diverse dialects.
For more information on Travel with Rick Steves - including episode descriptions, program archives and related details - visit www.ricksteves.com.