A super quick peptides explainer (and the peptide products that should be on your Christmas list)

0:00This show is sponsored by Primidine, a clean, natural and science-based spermidine supplement that's been a long-time staple in my own longevity stack. Because studies suggest that through autophagy, spermidine increases healthspan and upregulates a range of health markers, from memory and cognitive function to heart health, hormone balance, fertility, and even hair growth. Plus, you can be assured that all ingredients undergo rigorous third-party testing. Buy Primadine now at OxfordHealthSpam.com and use the discount code DrSophie, that's D-R-Sophie for 20 % off. This show is sponsored by Microbes, an award-winning liquid probiotic that's now a staple for me because Microbes, with a Z on the end, is different.

0:47For one thing, they source directly from the soil on their Wiltshire farm, meaning more diversity with at least 15 strains of good bacteria in every single shot. It's brewed so it can survive in the stomach and a remarkable 92 % of customers say it makes a difference. Plus they offer micro-friendly cleaning, gardening and even microbes for dogs. Buy now at microbes.co.uk and use the discount code sophie20 for 20 % off. Hi I'm Sophie and this is Age Well with Dr Sophie Schotter, a space devoted to all things health, wellness and longevity. Because for me, aging well is about looking and feeling like the best possible version of ourselves inside as well as out.

1:31So together with my producer Fee, I'll be deep diving into the latest research sifting fact from fiction. I'll also be talking to all kinds of trusted experts tapping into their knowledge, along with bringing you conversations from a range of interesting women and men finding out how they age well. So this is my show. Welcome along. And as always, thank you so much for listening.

2:00Dr Sophie Shotter:So Sophie, in really simple terms, what are peptides? And why do so many beauty influencers call them the secret workhorse of skincare? I think it was former guest Nadine Bagot who coined that latter phrase. Okay I'll do a little primer for everyone and I'm going to strip it all right back to basics. Firstly so many of us talk about the vital importance of collagen and elastin when it comes to good skin. In fact without these our skin would be incredibly loose and saggy with no real firmness or structure or ability to bounce back. So these aren't just buzzwords they're absolutely crucial to the structure and function of our skin and our face.

2:39but did you know that both of those are proteins and collagen is actually the most abundant protein in the body it accounts for 30 percent of our total protein which leads me to and let's peel back the onion even more how do we make these two proteins collagen and elastin well now we need to talk about amino acids because all proteins are made up of amino acids which are these teeny tiny molecules not visible to the naked eye in fact amino acids are the building blocks of proteins a good analogy is to think of proteins as a bit like chains of beads where each bead is an amino acid and now we get to peptides because when certain amino acids are combined in specific formations all linked together they create what's called peptides and these peptides become messengers that tell your skin to do various things for example to make more collagen and elastin those essential proteins and in fact not only collagen and elastin but also keratin or things like hyaluronic acid and keratin's crucial for hair and nails and hyaluronic acid for our skin's hydration.

3:43Bear in mind our body creates loads and loads of different types of peptides. For example, some are used in the creation of hormones but a skin-focused peptide is usually anywhere between 2 and 50 amino acids all linked together. Again, becoming these building blocks that keep stacking up and stacking up to create new proteins like collagen and elastin. and as I'll get to there are many different types of skincare peptides actually many people don't realize that since the 1980s we've been putting peptides in various lotions potions creams and serums and that's because when we apply these to the skin they enter into our skin and stimulate our skin cells to get to work and do things and it wasn't actually until the 1990s that peptides really became a thing so peptides in skincare certainly isn't new but they seem to be getting a lot of attention at the moment.

4:35Just one more thing, skincare formulations often feature a combination of different peptides and each works a little differently. You don't necessarily need to worry about how each one functions but it is worth familiarising yourself with the four main different types of peptides so that when you look at ingredients you can understand that different peptides work in different ways. For example some have demonstrated good results in softening fine lines whereas others are good for firmness. So with peptides it really is all about what you want to achieve for your skin.

5:05Dr Sophie Shotter:Brilliant explainer as always thank you. So yeah can you do a quick explainer on these four different types of peptides? So first up there are signal peptides and these stimulate skin cells to produce collagen, elastin and other proteins and these are the most commonly used in skincare. So one example would be Matrixil 3000 or another one that many people might have heard of is syncol. Secondly, they're a carrier peptide and these also rev up collagen and elastin by delivering vital minerals such as copper to the skin, helping in repair while also reducing inflammation. They're great for damaged, compromised skin that needs a bit of nourishment.

5:44So examples would be copper peptides or GHK, CU stands for copper again. Third, they're a neurotransmitter inhibiting peptides and these block muscle contractions so help to soften fine lines and wrinkles so look out for the name argirilline which is also known as acetyl hexapeptide 8 or another one would be pentapeptide 18 and these are the ones that usually go viral on the internet and i'll get into this shortly in terms of what they can actually do and the fourth are enzyme inhibitor peptides and these help to maintain skin structure by blocking down the MMP enzymes responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin.

6:25So it's all about helping to preserve that firmness and elasticity and again we're looking at matrixyl 3000 and acetyl hexapeptide 8. So those are the four main groups. You might have heard of copper peptides because these two are often quite hyped and a copper peptide is basically a type of carrier peptide. there are also growth factor peptides and these help with wound healing and skin regeneration and again encourage collagen production certain peptides can also control various mechanisms that could contribute to skin sensitivity or hormonal breakouts there are also advanced multifunctional peptides being made in various labs and these can address a lot of skin content simultaneously by targeting various skin pathways examples here are copper peptides and palmitoyl tripeptide 5.

7:12It's also really important to know that there are many peptides being developed by skincare brands that are unique to the product or brand. And again, we'll get into that. But essentially, they're really clever messengers that tell your skin what to do. I read a nice analogy on Get The Gloss, which is to think of peptides as kind of like air traffic controllers for your skin.

7:33Dr Sophie Shotter:Yeah, that is a good one. And are there any that you'd especially look out for? So for example as you say a lot of people have been talking about copper peptides and also the sort of Botox in a bottle products that seem to go viral. Yeah there's no magic or silver bullet peptides so I'd say to everyone don't get too caught up in marketing hype and again there are four main types of peptide and hundreds of ingredients across all four so it's all about what your skin concern is. Yes one peptide that created a lot of online buzz is argyroline also known as acetyl hexapeptide 8. And yes, some people describe it as similar to a toxin injection because there's some evidence to suggest it reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

8:18But I'm in agreement with pretty much all my colleagues in that peptides alone are not enough to do the work by themselves. And it's a much milder version than a toxin injection. But that's not to say that they aren't really good skincare ingredients. You mentioned copper peptides. And again this is a great ingredient with a lot of data behind it but it's not the only ingredient i'd say that matrixil is one of the best known collagen stimulating peptides and this one is used by so many huge high street brands from boots number seven to the ordinary and it's a brilliant workhorse of a peptide peptides also have these hygroscopic properties meaning that they can attract and retain water which obviously helps hydrate skin and improve moisture retention.

9:03So they not only help quench thirsty skin, but also help the skin hold on to that moisture for longer. But as I said, many brands have their own unique patented blends of peptides made especially for them. And these will have their unique names and capabilities. Okay.

9:19Dr Sophie Shotter:And I'm going to ask you about brands soon, but realistically, what can we expect to see with peptides in skincare? And also how soon will we see it? so again it all depends on the type of peptide you're using as they all do different things but depending on the peptide people tend to notice a strength in skin barrier so less regness and reduced inflammation some people notice a glow which is indicative of an increase in hydration some people claim an improvement in the appearance of wrinkles but in all of this they're not a quick fix i'd say you need to use them consistently for at least six weeks before you notice a significant change.

9:56And remember, everyone's skin and internal biology is different. So what works for me may not necessarily work for you, which is why I'm not a fan of products that just go viral.

10:05Dr Sophie Shotter:And what can we combine them with? Peptides generally play nice with other ingredients, and I'd say they tend to work best as part of a well-rounded routine. You can certainly pair them with other proven ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. and in fact peptides will even enhance the work of these ingredients. You could also layer them with a good ceramide rich moisturizer to lock in hydration and strengthen the skin barrier and bear in mind that you can use peptides with retinol. In fact again they can help mitigate some of the irritation that comes from retinoids and you certainly can use them with sunscreen but I'd be cautious about combining them with AHAs and BHAs as part of the same routine because the low pH levels of the acids can destabilise or reduce the efficiency and efficacy of some of the peptides.

10:54So use them at different times of day is really what I was saying.

10:58Dr Sophie Shotter:So like where do peptides come in a skincare routine and should we apply them in the morning or in the evening and what should the routine look like? So you can apply them morning or night or even both and they come after cleansing. It's usually best to layer your skincare products from thinnest to thickest. So pop your peptide serum on after any water-based serums like hyaluronic acid, but before your moisturiser and SPF. You can apply them twice a day, but do check each specific product. Some might just be designed for once a day use. And in terms of format, serums are likely your best bet with peptides.

11:33They're more lightweight and are usually designed to penetrate more deeply into the skin. But some creams work really well too. And do remember that you can get custom-made peptide products for around the eye as well.

11:44Dr Sophie Shotter:Okay and are they okay for sensitive skin or people with let's say rosacea? Yeah peptides can be really good for rosacea because they have an anti-inflammatory property so can help reduce redness and support skin barrier repair. Certain peptides like copper peptides can calm inflammation again speed up skin repair and strengthen the skin's barrier so in theory you should be okay but if you've got sensitive skin or a skin condition do a patch test and check on the actual peptide you're using and whether it pairs well with sensitive skin and definitely with something like rosacea. Okay and the big question what are the brands worth trying both in your clinical experience and in terms of the reviews worth trusting I guess across all budgets?

12:28You'll find peptides in so many products now and some of my favorites you'll find them in many revision skincare products. Elastin skincare is a whole range based on peptides and for me a total hero product is their ha-immers which stimulates hyaluronic acid production in the skin so that is a real hero for me meeda beauty use again a lot of peptides medicate have their liquid peptides advanced mp which is a great product again helping reduce deeper set wrinkles in really not that much time under eight weeks according to their studies and delivering a bit of a filler-like effect with two types of kind of, they call them mini proteins, to help stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.

13:13Again, for me, still not on a par with toxin injections, but there's some technology and data here. So again, a good product to look at. Medicate's peptide serum is a blend of 10 different peptides, which also is really popular and reviews well. When it comes to kind of muscle relaxing effects, I love Meda Beauty's Myofix Complex and Revision's Revox line relaxer and skin suticles also have their PTOX which has this really light almost weightless feel and a great peptide complex. Do remember to look at the other ingredients by the way as some people will want add-ons and other people won't. So for example the PTOX has PHAs in it which are great for gentle exfoliation.

13:57When you get to more the mid-range end of the category you might recall that Alessandra Steinherr who was our guest previously talked about peptides a lot and she mentioned the nip and fab peptide fix finishing oil which is basically two highly concentrated formulas in one so you shake the bottle to combine the multi-peptides and various nourishing oils with the active copper peptides it's also got bakuchiol which we've spoken about before it's a plant-based alternative to retinol Alex also mentioned allies of skin which is a brand i really rate as well and they've got their peptide and growth factor product and again another real classic estee lauder's advanced night repair which contains their signature patented peptide tripeptide 32 designed to support skin's natural renewal process and they're a company who constantly work to update their formulations so the night repair of today isn't the night repair that they launched many years ago another one of our guests Nadine Baggett raved about a brand called Nitorium so again it might be worth checking out their multi-peptide advanced serum this contains an argyroline amplified peptide which promotes smoothness and elasticity plus a combination of alpha hydroxy acids for texture and ferulic acid for antioxidant protection Nadine's also done a couple of really good peptide roundups on her youtube channel which are worth checking out on the budget end you can look at the ordinary multi-peptide plus HA.

15:25It's got a blend of peptides, including Matrixyl 3000 Argyrilene, but also has other ingredients in there. Olay's collagen peptide products, which also contain niacinamide and a high concentration of collagen peptides. Basically, there's a huge range out there. And remember that budget products can be great, but you also won't get the results and the studies and the power of some of the more premium products. The Elixir from Augustinus Barda is also getting a lot of hype. It's an ultra concentrated treatment powered by the brand's advanced version of its TFC8 technology, which is a clever blend of amino acids, vitamins and peptides.

16:07But it's also nearly£500 and it's an awful lot of money when there are great products at lesser price points. As I say, all the skincare brands now have peptide products, from names like Elizabeth Arden to Paula's Choice and Sunday Riley. it's impossible for me to just recommend one.

16:25Dr Sophie Shotter:Going back to your comments on advanced night repair I actually didn't know that some peptides are the proprietary property of a brand so is it the case that new peptides are continually being developed like by these brands? Yes and these newer lab-built synthetic peptides are actually really exciting because a lot of them are highly performance specific designed to perform a different skincare task whether that's adding moisture or helping with pigmentation or reducing the appearance of fine lines. They're also really sophisticated in how they work with other cell communicating ingredients like retinol.

17:00Some of these new peptides have also shown remarkable anti-inflammatory effects. Some brands are now creating these specific peptide chains in the lab and then attaching them to a fatty acid component which allows the peptides to overcome their inherent limitations when it comes to being biologically absorbed and remaining stable. And we think they may have benefit that goes beyond the skin surface, which is all very exciting and innovative. But we're still reasonably early days in the trials and data sets for all of that.

17:29Dr Sophie Shotter:Well, I mean, it sounds like peptides are a no brainer. Do you have any words of caution? I think the main thing is the price point of some of the really hyped products. To be fair to the brands, the issue is that they can be challenging to formulate in the lab because they don't penetrate easily into the skin and like vitamin c they can be unstable all of this means they can be costly to produce and then of course you're often paying for the brand name other than that yes i think that peptides are definitely worth adding into the skincare routine with the exception of teens who quite frankly just don't need them but they're wonderful for older skin and i think it's a good habit to start using them when you notice those early signs of aging in your 20s or 30s depending on the individual and start building up that collagen and storing collagen and elastin all that being said we still have limited data compared to say a retinoid and certainly compared to sunscreen and again no peptide will give you the same results as toxin injections no matter what social media says plus as always everything skincare needs to be combined with a good lifestyle because a lack of good sleep continued stress and alcohol and smoking and ultra processed foods and sugar all show up in the skin.

18:38As I always say, get the foundations right first.

18:41Dr Sophie Shotter:Yeah, great advice. What about peptide therapy and peptide injections? Do you offer this in clinic? So peptides can also be injected into the body and peptide therapy is either injections or topical creams or oral peptides, all of which can be used to improve various health conditions and again help with skin rejuvenation. I think we'll be doing a dedicated episode on peptide therapy further down the line which is much more about general health and health conditions but peptide injections is essentially injecting synthetic peptides into the body including the skin using very fine needles and this is to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and overall skin texture by encouraging the production of collagen and elastin so and the injections can also support wound healing there's mesotherapy which can have various peptides in and there's also a treatment called abg which is coming or it's coming to the uk but not yet ce marked so all of these involve injections into the dermis of the skin using very fine needles and can be really tailor-made and i am excited to see where those products take us okay i'm excited to to see where this all happens too because skincare is moving so so fast any final thoughts on peptides i guess just that they're a great addition to any skincare routine and the technologies and data sets are certainly growing just to remember that as with many actives peptides take time to work so if you're adding them to a routine just like retinol you need to give it around six to eight weeks to see those noticeable results and keep going they're not a quick fix but a long-term commitment slow and steady absolutely wins the race here if you want instant gratification you can try humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin which gives that temporary plumped up look or facial oils for an instant glow but otherwise stay consistent and give the peptides time and i think you'll really start to see results oh thank you so much i do you know what i kept seeing peptides all over my social feeds and i thought i don't really know what they are and i was getting confused i didn't even know there were four different types so thank you so so much you've made this really clear super interesting and I'm going to get myself in the peptide so thank you Sophie.

20:53Dr Sophie Shotter:Thank you Fee. And that ends this week's podcast. If you want to find out more about me and my work or maybe book a consultation head to drsophyshotter.com and you can find me on socials at drsophyshotter. And again thank you so much for listening.