In short
Seasonal skincare “unfiltered truths,” including summer sun protection (UVA/UVB and heat), hyperpigmentation treatment depth, why skin conditions matter more than skin types, cleansing/pH basics, and the role of vitamin A/retinoids (including retinoic acid vs retinol/esters). Joanna also critiques skincare trends (e.g., stem cells/exosomes) and explains a simple, effective routine (cleanser → pH toner → vitamin A → moisturizer/balm).
Guest
Joanna Czech, esthetician “to the stars” with 40+ years’ experience; divides time between New York, Los Angeles, and Dallas. Known for long-term holistic, not quick-fix, skin approaches. A-list clientele mentioned: Kim Kardashian, Hailey Bieber, Cara Delevingne. Runs the Joanna Czech Atelier (Beverly Hills).
Key claims
SPF isn’t only about “indoors”; use common sense based on direct/reflective daylight (face/neck/decolletage). Hyperpigmentation varies by depth; deeper causes need stronger approaches. You can’t change skin type—treat the condition. Vitamin A is central; retinoic acid is most irritating; esters convert gradually and can be used more safely. Avoid trends until enough scientific evidence exists.
Notable examples
“Liquid microneedling” with 5 million microneedles for hyperpigmentation; prep with vitamin A for ~6 weeks before treatments. Heat-induced hyperpigmentation; rosacea clients can tolerate liquid microneedling with proper vitamin A preparation. Clay-mask “double cleanse” method (oil pre-cleanse + non-hardening kaolin clay mask).
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOIntroducing Joanna Czech
0:45 to 3:04
Hosts introduce Joanna Czech, her background, and her expertise.
“We get to talk to the most iconic people in the industry.”
Seasonal Skincare Essentials
3:04 to 4:26
Joanna discusses skincare adjustments for warmer weather.
“Joanna, we're heading into warmer weather now.”
Sun Exposure and Health
4:26 to 6:01
Discussion on the importance of sun exposure and SPF usage.
“That's very important for many factors in our system and so on.”
Treating Hyperpigmentation
12:33 to 14:00
Joanna shares insights on treating hyperpigmentation effectively.
“We are best friends, co-founders of our wellness platform, Orm, and now hopefully your new favorite podcast host with our new podcast, Transform.”
Understanding Liquid Microneedling
14:00 to 17:49
Learn about the benefits and procedures of liquid microneedling and its effects on skin conditions.
“These needles that we massage, they are made out of spongela.”
Skin Types vs. Skin Conditions
17:50 to 20:46
Explore the differences between skin types and conditions, and how they impact skincare routines.
“coming to see you ladies, that was post plastic surgery treatment.”
The Impact of Lifestyle on Skin
20:47 to 22:30
Understand how lifestyle choices affect skin health and the importance of personalized skincare.
“When I started my studies over 40 years ago, genetics was 70%, the way how we feel, look, and so on.”
Debunking Skincare Trends
22:31 to 27:35
Discover the importance of skepticism towards skincare trends and the relevance of scientific backing.
“that is the thing when I go out to dinner with my girlfriends.”
Exploring Vivier Skincare Products
28:03 to 29:40
Discover the benefits and unique formulation of Vivier's Radiance Serum.
“So I have found the brand that allows me as a sensitive skin person to start out low and then build my way up.”
Researching Skincare Ingredients
31:28 to 32:52
Joanna shares how she verifies skincare information through studies and experts.
“If you read something and you're like, that seems like it's bullshit, where do you go and check the source?”
Show all 18 chapters
The Importance of Nighttime Skincare
32:52 to 34:38
Understand why Joanna emphasizes nighttime skincare routines over morning ones.
“Okay, so we now know there's a Lima laser on your bed stand.”
Vimna A: The Key to Healthy Skin
34:38 to 36:46
Discover the significance of vitamin A in skincare routines for various skin types.
“What I strongly believe in a proper cleanser, proper cleanser, not the names of the companies, just consistency of a cleanser.”
Understanding Retinoids and Their Effects
36:46 to 42:00
Learn about the differences between retinoids and their impact on skin health.
“The thing is that I would not talk about it if I would not feel this way.”
The Importance of Vitamin A in Skincare
42:00 to 45:35
Learn about the vital role Vitamin A plays in maintaining healthy skin and its effects.
“Even here in the room, right away it's being diminished.”
Cleansing Routines and Their Impact
48:38 to 56:00
Explore common cleansing mistakes and the importance of a proper routine.
“That's livemomentous.com spelled L-I-V-E-M-O-M-E-N-T-O-U-S dot com promo code beauty.”
The Importance of Supplements in Beauty
56:00 to 56:38
Joanna discusses the impact of supplements on beauty and health.
“I don't love scented products, but that iris is like sexy Swiss men.”
Joanna's Favorite Supplements Revealed
56:38 to 58:20
Joanna shares her top supplement choices and their benefits.
“I'm that very inside-out beauty person because I think 70 % the way how we feel and look, it's really in our hands.”
A Sneak Peek into Joanna's Upcoming Book
58:20 to 59:24
Joanna reveals her plans for a memoir covering her life and experiences.
“And then the very last thing, Joanna, little birdie told me that you're writing a book.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00The following podcast is a Dear Media production.
0:08Welcome to Breaking Beauty, the podcast all about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty. We're your hosts, Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins.
0:21Hello and welcome back to Breaking Beauty podcast. I'm your co-host, Carlene Higgins, and I'm here with my other co-host, Jill Dunn. Hey, everyone, and thank you for joining us on this fine Wednesday. We are two longtime magazine beauty editors turned beauty podcasters. We're in your feed each and every Wednesday. And, Carlene, I feel like the people that we get to talk to on the show, like 450 episodes into nine years. Yes. We get to talk to the most iconic people in the industry. So that could be Chris McMillan for hair, Dr. Shereen Idris as a dermatologist, makeup by Mario. And we have an iconic person with us today.
1:02Yes, we have none other than esthetician to the stars, Joanna Cech. Welcome to the podcast. Thank you for having me. Of course. Of course. So Joanna first joined the podcast back in 2022, where she helped us cultivate big skin energy for that year. And in today's episode, we're going to be asking her for the unfiltered truth about skincare's hot topics. And if you're not familiar, Joanna is dubbed as fashion's favorite facialist. She has a huge list of A-list clientele. And just some of the ones that we can name include Kim Kardashian, Hailey Bieber, Cara Delevingne. And Joanna has been an esthetician for more than four decades.
1:44So she really knows what she's talking about. And her mantra really is all about a long-term holistic approach versus the quick short fix. Although she does love TikTok and she's good on social media. Yeah. Joanna divides her time between New York, Los Angeles and Dallas. I was fortunate enough to have a facial last time I was here in New York and I was getting compliments for weeks. It's definitely very distinctive from other facials that I've had. I went to the Joanna Czech Atelier in Beverly Hills. Is it Beverly Hills? Yes, it is. Yeah. And I was snatched to the gods. Every single modality that could be used was used on my face.
2:28And trust me, I needed it. And I agreed. It's like a different level. Yes. You're like, oh, I get why the A-listers are coming here. Yeah. It's not just like massaging and the famous slapping. Yeah. It's more than that. So let's give you a little teaser of what you're going to hear in today's episode. We're going to be covering everything from the truths about summer proofing your skin, tips for dealing with the downsides of retinol, and whether or not she thinks that supplements are worth it. And don't worry, every single product that we mention is listed over on our website at breakingbeautypodcast.com.
3:02Okay, so we're going to dive in. Joanna, we're heading into warmer weather now. Any day now, it's going to be here. Any day, tomorrow apparently. So should we be taking kind of an inventory of our skincare routine when we're changing seasons, like the products we're using and how we're using them?
3:18Joanna Czech:Maybe in the summertime during the day, you want a little lighter moisturizer versus balm that I recommend for the wintertime to prevent broken capillaries. It's not really about all of a sudden Vimna K more needed than Vimna C or so on. And that kind of after over 40 years doing it. I don't believe in summer creams, nighttime creams, daytime creams. I love seasonal approach, but because of the consistency of the product, but also deciding based on the lifestyle of a client, because everybody needs a very different approach. I would recommend, I will be the one who has zero estrogen in my body using the balm during the summer.
4:06Joanna Czech:And it will not look too greasy. It will not look too shiny. It's going to be glowing and welcome any glow. So not particular things, but I will have further advices regarding, you know, how to probably protect your skin from stronger UVA, UVBs. That's going to be important. I think we do need a little sun exposure. That's very important for many factors in our system and so on. Of course, the stimulation of Vimna-D, important for the brain, important for the bones, very important for cardiovascular system. Vimna-D stimulates nitric oxide that's produced in a lining of our veins, and that prevents many cardiovascular diseases.
4:59Joanna Czech:I know that's going to be the weirdest thing, what I will say right now. There are proven studies that people with some sun exposure, they have less heart diseases. Ever since about 25 years ago, when we came up with SPF 100, with SPF umbrellas, with SPF bathing suits and SPF everything, they were actually tracking statistics that against one melanoma they are eight heart diseases really yes they were studies done by someone from harvard i have the name of i may follow up with it and but they were warnings how and when to do it we have smartphones that we can check the level of uv uh on the phone if it's uv2 or below it's okay to step out and and don't run for but if it's above UV2, then we do need protection.
5:55Joanna Czech:I think we still should protect our face, neck, and décolleté because that's our vanity. And we can get for 10 minutes sun on our arms. And I will talk a little bit in connection with Vime Nae and later on and so on, but I believe in a little exposure. Of course, they are those times of the day. Dr. Des Fernandes, my one beauty hero and the most brilliant man, he suggests three minutes at noon. Interesting. Waiting for the just getting pink and and running away from there. So that's but the three minutes we are talking about three minutes. We're not talking about laying there. I have to say, if I go to work at 8 a.m., a seven-minute walking distance, and I'm 10 hours behind the closed doors, I will admit, and I know that that's not going to be a popular statement, but that's when I don't have SPF on my face.
6:58Joanna Czech:From 8 a.m. until 6.30 p.m., I really don't. And have you ever had spirited conversations with dermatologists on this topic? Very much so. With my own dermatologist, who is professor of dermatology in medical school. This is someone with over 40 years experience and who teaches it. And I loved that fact that we were in agreement with comparable amount of years of expertise. He said, I don't believe in SPFs indoors and they don't need to be in that 100. I think I would be very comfortable with SPF 30 if I'm longer than 40 minutes with sun exposure, but it's important. So I always recommend SPF, but starting at 6 a.m., 10 hours in the office and so on.
7:49Joanna Czech:And that might be a little exaggeration. It's business. It's tremendous business, tremendous money. But there are other things very necessary that will prevent us from skin cancer, not just SPF. SPF, it's not enough. I used to also think that wearing sunscreen indoors is overblowing. I was like, this is just getting silly now. But what I would say, and I do think there's some just common sense to some of these things, I think, that we analyze so much. Because when I work from home, I sit in my front window and I get beautiful sun on one side of my face. And it's so warm and cozy. I have to fight with my dog for that chair.
8:33But I can feel the warmth on my face and my face will start to go pink. And so I know from that, if I'm sitting in that chair, I should be wearing sunscreen. You should. You should. But if I'm sitting 10 feet the other way where I don't have direct sun on me, I don't believe that I need to be wearing sunscreen.
8:55Joanna Czech:If you're in your cubicle and on the computer and you don't see a daylight, absolutely not. I'm in the dimmed light rooms for 10 hours. Absolutely not. But there is a famous truck driver face that we all know that left side, if we are in countries where the steering wheel is on the left side, they compare and they give us that face looking different because that there is some exposure to that and even sometimes more reflection. So, of course, I mean, we use common sense. Exactly. I completely agree with that. Now, would you say, and you can answer this or not, to some people that they only need to wear sunscreen at the top of a mountain?
9:38I think we need it more often. Okay.
9:41Joanna Czech:On top of the mountain, that's almost the, that could be the most strongest sun, even if we have cloudy day. But I would say on the bottom of the mountain and on the beach and on daily basis, if you spend time outdoors, exactly what we just repeated. But you definitely need... If I'm walking around Soho all afternoon, I'm going to be... I do my SPF 30. Yes. Yes. And I'm very comfortable with that.
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12:26That's 25 % off when you use code beauty at cowboycolostrum.com slash beauty. Hey, this is Sammy Clark. And this is Sammy Spalter. We are best friends, co-founders of our wellness platform, Orm, and now hopefully your new favorite podcast host with our new podcast, Transform. We started Transform because we are constantly having all of these big live chats. So we thought it was time to bring the conversations to the mic for you to join in, knowing we can all relate to the forming the best version of ourselves. We will be chatting it up from everything from self-love, health and wellness, relationships, owning a business, and all of the other hills and valleys that is this big, beautiful life.
13:10Tune in every week wherever you listen to your podcasts. See you soon.
13:24We have been talking so much about hyperpigmentation, and it's so challenging to treat, get rid of. What's been the most dramatic improvement that you've seen with someone who's come in and maybe they have a lot of pigmentation? And then like the after, you almost couldn't believe it.
13:42Joanna Czech:We actually offered this beautiful treatment, Biomodulation, with 5 million microneedles that we massage the cream with those millions of microneedles. We got to a different level of it. It used to be Korean product that clients were plugging needles from the face. These needles that we massage, they are made out of spongela. Oh, this is liquid microneedling. Yes. And I use the company from Greece and I'm in love with it. It melts in your skin, creates microchanneling and that it speeds up cellular turnover to seven days. And that's what I had the best results with. I would say Vimna C, but that's very, very gentle way.
14:29Joanna Czech:It's almost more preventive and great results with Vimna A and also as a phenomenal prevention, the way how our DNA acts and so on. Some chemical pills. Yeah. Yes, they are very helpful. So hyperpigmentation, like post-inflammation, which is post-breakouts and so on, or post-samscarring, that's easy to remove when you see it under the microscope. It's a very tiny plate. hormonal, levers, parts, aging process, post sun exposure. These are like deep penetrating needles. They're going through every layer of the skin. So it depends on hyperpigmentation. So more like superficial versus like... Yes, versus very deep.
15:16Joanna Czech:People who have tendencies, they need to also avoid heat. So it's not just UVA, UVB. There is such a thing like heat-induced hyperpigmentation. not a fan of heart classes then for those people yeah some people can i i can do it i only can't do it because of my hypertension i get a headache because of my high blood pressure in heart classes bikram yoga or so on they're phenomenal for very different reasons but i know there's only i will say it you choose your face or your ass you know i mean you knew that is gonna be no filter with Joanna. That's right. I mean, if you're on my Instagram, there is no filter.
15:55Joanna Czech:I love your Instagram. I haven't been canceled yet, but you know. Liquid microneedling, it's nice to be reassured by you because I experienced it. I have mild rosacea and so I was very concerned. But. You tell me. I had the best results with quite reactive skins. I have stage one of rosacea This is the best thing that I discovered. Okay. Yes. Okay. But you need to be properly prepared. I prepared clients with Vibna A before that. So skin is already stronger and more resilient. Epidermis, it's thickening a little bit. So I don't just attack client coming for the first time. We have conversations because they have four treatments every two weeks, 36 hours of a little downtime.
16:47Joanna Czech:or maybe when you wash your face, you feel like you're washing with cactus when you touch your skin. So I always create the worst case scenario for a client. So they're nicely surprised. And I like that kind of approach. How much in advance would you get them on the vitamin A? Six weeks. Okay. Six weeks would be fine if they could use on daily basis. And there are forms of vitamin A that you can use on daily basis. Yeah. This is the next level stuff, guys. Like we're going to get your skin trained with vitamin A for six weeks before liquid microneedling. Before plastic surgeries. Yeah. Yes. We have many patients that we prep for plastic surgeries and we treat after with lymphatic drainage and so on.
17:35Some people see a trainer to like run a marathon. They see you before they get the facelift.
17:40Joanna Czech:I highly recommend that. healing process. It's just there's not even comparison. The client that I just left before coming to see you ladies, that was post plastic surgery treatment. And she looks phenomenal eight weeks later. She was coming for lymphatic drainage. Today we were a little braver. Nobody would ever say that eight weeks later she had lower facelift. Yeah. I do want to ask you, and this was something you brought up when we were chatting before about the difference between skin condition versus skin types, because this is going to drive really your skincare routine. So walk us through that and how you talk to your clients about it.
18:24Joanna Czech:I've heard about all different amounts of skin types. What I was taught back in Poland in my school and when I was doing my pre-med studies, I know about dry skin, oily skin, normal to dry, normal to oily, and combination. Five skin types and each one of them has its characteristic. Because the closest to dry skin. It's going to be usually thinner skin with not very noticeable pores. And it will not be ever shiny. Oily skin, usually larger pores because we have sebum secretion, right? And so on. And that resurface is quicker. Normal to dry. The most normal skin with tendencies to looking dry and also still smaller pores.
19:17Joanna Czech:Maybe T-zone. It's a little oily. and the sides are drier, normal to oily, T-zone oily, with tendencies to, but tendencies to oiliness, not being oily. And kind of that combination skin, it's the most typical that it's always larger pores in a T-zone, smaller pores. That's what I know. And then skin conditions. We all might have dry skin, but you may not have, Carleen, the dehydrated skin. I do have dry and dehydrated. I could have oily skin but also dehydrated. That's happening already on the surface. You could have oily skin with rosacea. You have dry skin with rosacea. Rosacea is conditioned already.
20:11Joanna Czech:You have oily skin but it's cuperous skin which means skin with broken capillaries, dry skin with cuperus skin, which is broken capillaries. So those are conditions. Yes. So what's the takeaway with that when you kind of explain that to your clients? Are you saying then, okay, we're going to treat the condition first and then think about your skin type or what do you do? We approach condition only. Oh, I see. Absolutely. I can't change skin type. That's what you are born with. And even though we have so much more we can do so much more with genetic situation. When I started my studies over 40 years ago, genetics was 70%, the way how we feel, look, and so on.
20:58Joanna Czech:Then 10 years later, 50%, the way how we look. All of a sudden, genetics was only 30%, and the recent studies of Belgium doctors showed it's 7 % to 9%. That's how much our lifestyle, what we do can change how we feel and look. So it's a lot in our hands. A lot of homework to do. But so anyhow, I approach only skin conditions. Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition. You could be dry, you could be oily and still have hyperpigmentation. Okay, that's a good point. What is the one piece of advice that people are taking from their friends that might actually be harming their skin. I just do what I do.
21:40Joanna Czech:And in the meantime, I'm a gardener and I am a computer technician. We have very different lifestyles. I'm on the plane nonstop and I never been on a plane. Also, different level of hydration, different approach. So our professions, our lifestyles, all those things make such a difference how do we react to the treatment done at home or done professionally or so on so don't do what your girlfriend does I really I really I know that social media could be phenomenal for many people and current generations leaves on it. Try to reach to professionals, experts. Yes. Yeah. I feel like that is the thing when I go out to dinner with my girlfriends.
22:34It's just, yep, yep, yep. I'm using this. I'm using that. Your skin looks amazing. Okay, send me the link. Yeah, exactly. That is the conversation.
22:43Joanna Czech:And I see, and that's, I told you girls before this, I said, I can't stand the small talk. Nobody wants to discuss. mathematics with me so it doesn't matter if it's go next go go next go yes yes yeah no that's um i was just now don't do what your girlfriend does and i'm talking you know we are talking about skin but this is not just vanity i'm talking about two square meters when it's flattened head to toe three kilo weight approximately and you know the skin is not considered anymore the largest organ They are talking about connective tissue because, for instance, connective tissue besides tissue between muscles and skin, muscles and bone, our blood is connective tissue.
23:29Joanna Czech:So they approach it differently. Okay. So we're not talking about fascia. And fascia. Yeah. Yes. But so it's more of it than our skin. Oh, interesting. Interesting. Yes. And what about a skincare trend that has you all bothered these days? What would that be? Let's get the hot take. I think I'm just bothered. I try not. Please don't believe in trends. Try not to. Some of them turn into goodness, but I would wait 12 to 18 years until we can have scientific claims. Years or months? Three years, you still cannot claim, you know that this is scientific. FDA approved versus FDA clarified. All those little words that we are using, what's good, what's not completely good yet and so on.
24:27Joanna Czech:So beef tallow with honey. Beef tallow on the face, probably my grandmother who lost and her six children during the war, maybe they were eating it and using as a protection because they were thrown out from their houses during the war in Poland. So, yes, but I think we got a little farther than putting beef tallow on our face. Eat it. It's so delicious with great sourdough and a little salt. Great by Nake. Stem cells in any cream or serum. doctors even think about stem cells a little bit anecdotal even those in re-injected from our own plasma they say this is 50 50 situation we are not certain if this is a brain that's working or those or those stem cells actually in canada they do the best job because they always try to get the stem cells from your bone because you have the biggest amount of stem cells so much bigger than, I mean, trillions of them in the bone versus in our blood.
25:38Joanna Czech:So any stem cells from the bone, you have a greater chance to re-inject something alive to your skin or maybe to your joint if it's for medical reasons. So they are not even certain about stem cells re-injected. Forget about apple serum with the stem cells. I always give this example. Please enjoy the apple and throw out the serum because it's really, it's not alive. Doesn't matter if it was made in Switzerland or not. Does not. Japan, Switzerland, as much as I love Geneva, but no, it does not matter. Exosomes, the same story. They're a little easier to store, but then there is a little more danger because there is no control of what they are connecting and what they are messengers.
Read the full transcript
26:23Joanna Czech:And messengers of everything. What are they saying? What are they saying from cell to cell? And is the cell healthy or not? Exactly. So this is another thing. Great area. I don't know. Just remind me because I just don't like trends. Yeah, yeah. Trends in fashion are phenomenal. Yes. Trends in makeup. I can wash my face and it's great. My husband hates me in a drop crotch pants. You look like you are three feet tall. I'm like, I'm not much taller, but I can take those pants off if he's going to be satisfied, you know. Yes, yes. So fashion, love trends. Even haircuts. The hair will grow back. Yeah.
27:04Joanna Czech:Makeups. But be careful with experimenting with the skincare. I think it's just, I mean, I love that organ. That organ has so many responsibilities. And it's not because I'm an esthetician. I was first an athlete. I was in a pre-med. I love human's body. I feel that I understand it, you know. Yes.
27:35today's episode is brought to you in part by vivier okay so you've probably heard of this concept with skincare when you're using a really active ingredient that you want to start with a really low kind of dose of that active and then as your skin acclimatizes you work your way up to a stronger concentration we often hear this with retinol not so much about vitamin c but vitamin and see is just as data backed and just as important as an ingredient in your routine. So I have found the brand that allows me as a sensitive skin person to start out low and then build my way up. And it's Vivier. They're actually a Canadian company, which is awesome.
28:15Vivier is a pharmaceutical grade skincare brand known for its science backed, clinically proven formulations, and it's designed to deliver real visible results. So this is the formula that I'm using. It's called the Radiance Serum by Vivier. It's 8 % vitamin C, Arbutin, and it also has resorcinol in it. Now they have about six to eight different formulas. They have a 10 % vitamin C, a 15%, going all the way up to 30%. And this ingredient is such a staple in skincare because vitamin C is known to be the most powerful antioxidant that helps brighten the skin, support collagen production, and protect against environmental stressors like pollution and UV exposure.
29:00So as beauty editors, we've often learned that retinol is one of the most crucial ingredients and so is vitamin C. And what sets Vivier apart is the form of vitamin C that they use. It's L-ascorbic acid USP. It's known to be the purest and most potent form available. Also one of the hardest to stabilize. So Vivier has addressed this with their proprietary IDS delivery system, which helps maintain stability and allows for deeper and more effective absorption into the skin. I just love that I can start low and slow and work my way up without having that sensitivity that I have noticed with other brands.
29:40If you want to try it, visit VivierSkin.com and use code BEAUTY15 at checkout to receive 15 % off your purchase. That's V-I-V-I-E-R-S-K-I-N.com. Use code BEAUTY15 for 15 % off your purchase. VivierSkin.com. Pausing to shout out Quince, they're one of our show partners this week. Everybody is talking about Quince these days. Why? Because the products are so affordable and the quality is great. The fabrics feel elevated, the fits are flattering and everything just works without overthinking it. So that's why if you want to update your wardrobe for spring, check out Quince. They have premium materials like 100 % European linen, organic cotton and ultra soft denim.
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31:34If you read something and you're like, that seems like it's bullshit, where do you go and check the source? Do you read medical studies or what do you do?
31:44Joanna Czech:I do. I'm actually in touch with Edinburgh, with medical school in Scotland. So that's the letters that I read. They approached me a little bit with exosomes, but we were having discussions back and forth for three years. I said no, even though they were testing and I had that feeling and I feel like I was a little maybe right. Yeah. Knowing what they are. So that's what I do. I talk tons to Dr. Des Fernandez. I read all his books. To me, that's my kind of Bible. If you would see my nightstand, I do have my little Christian symbol that makes probably my dad in heaven happy and my mom in Poland.
32:27Joanna Czech:And, you know, it's just it's a it makes me feel good. And then I have my lima lasers and and my other Bible. I mean, that's that's like that's I. It's a vitamin A book, everyone. That is by night that I could read. Just some light reading before bed. Yes, and a vagus nerve, you know. Okay, that's a whole other topic of conversation. Wow. Okay, so we now know there's a Lima laser on your bed stand. I want to start getting into the skincare routine and some of the truths about that. If someone only had the energy to do their skincare properly once in a day, morning or night, what's more important?
33:08Joanna Czech:My day starts at night. Okay. That's literally how I say my days, my 24 hours start at night. I always give an example or a baby. We bathe them at night. We put all the body oils. We feed them. We read half page of a book and we put them to sleep and they sleep like babies, right? I wish that would happen to me at 62. I don't sleep anymore. but but preparing your skin and your whole body your brain everything for a moment of relaxation and rejuvenation that's the most important moment and it does not take a long time it's rinsing your day off that's my don't bring the streets to the sheets yes you would not invite anybody, even your best girlfriend, sit with your jeans in my bed and then I'm going to go there.
34:05Joanna Czech:No, just no. So, I mean, this is it. We invest hundreds of thousands of dollars the way how we look and feel. And in the meantime, we concentrate on a morning shower. To me, it doesn't make much sense, but prepping for the nighttime. Rinsing your body off, you don't need to spend tons of time. If you need another shower in the morning, then you can do bubbles and whatever else you want, rinse. Then apply your body routine from the neck down and then your face routine from the nipples up. And that could be very quick routine. What I strongly believe in a proper cleanser, proper cleanser, not the names of the companies, just consistency of a cleanser.
34:49Joanna Czech:If you wear makeup, Maybe use my face wipes not to mess up your white towel and then use a cleanser. Or maybe oily or balmy cleanser to remove the makeup. And then rinse it off with nice foamy cleanser. So cleanser, I believe in proper pH of the skin. So there is a toner with pH 5.5, slightly acidic to keep it. I think your skin will be, efficacy of products applied after will be increased. if you have proper pH. My one and only and main form of ingredients is serum cream. It's Vimna A. So form of retinoid that you use and then moisturizer, what brings you comfort. For me, again, day or night is the balm.
35:39Joanna Czech:Happens to be my own balm, but the most important is proper pH and then right after that, Vimna A. And that's how I treat my body, also with Vimna A. Oh, wow. Head to toe. Head to toe. Head to toe. Yeah. What's the vitamin A on the body? There is Environ. Oh, yes. And I've been lately using this pomade, you know, pomade. And retinoid. And what is amazing about it, because for my skin condition and also for my skin that it's used to Vimna A, I did not have to have every other night or every so often or so on. I can use every night. And these are the moments that I actually can occasionally skip my own bum.
36:25Joanna Czech:Oh, my gosh. For everybody that's listening that's not picking up this convo, Joanna has been testing Carleen's product, her retinol. At the moment, it's not testing anymore. Oh, yes. This is using. Amazing. Including my team. Oh, my gosh. They are very, very pleased. Look at this. Oh, my gosh. I am. You might need these tissues. You might need these tissues to cry. No, no, no. The thing is that I would not talk about it if I would not feel this way. I just wouldn't mention, you know that. I'm so thrilled. So we're talking about Cassatt La Pomade Retinoid Skin Ointment, which I developed with a cosmetic chemist.
37:03And it's very different because it's a balm with retinoid in it. And that's very unique in the market.
37:09Joanna Czech:That's a little bit like you, Beauty, did the balm with SPF. This is exactly the same for someone who does not like 17 steps and I'm allergic to 17 steps, I would not do it. I just would never do it. I'm a three to four steps person. That's why I, when I hear, oh my God, I'm exhausted at night. Coming back from work, stand under the shower, put your sweats and then concentrate on your supper already when you're all done. You don't need to keep it to the last minute. Yes. Because then you might be exhausted by then. Yeah. Yeah. And by the way, so the La pomade has 200 ,000 international units. I know, I asked you that question.
37:47Yes, I remember. But we
37:48Joanna Czech:can, we can, we can increase by layering it. Okay. Just simply by layering it. By layering it with 200 ,000? 200 international units. 200 international units. Yes. Got it. I think you had said 200 ,000. Yeah, it's a different way of measuring. Understood. Understood. Yeah. Got it. Okay. international units. But what are you putting on the body for the vitamin A? I put ACE body oil and thermal occlotion by Environ as well. Oh, that is also Environ. Understood. My Dr. Des Fernandes and Cape Town and I'm just... I am not into skincare brands. I'm into products. I love that. I think every brand has hero.
38:30Joanna Czech:Yeah, I agree with that. And the way how Dr. Des Fernandes and how long he's been studying vitamin A, the way how he introduced us to it, that open the pathway to all of us using it and not being worried about Vime Nae destroying skins. Right. Is he the founder of Environ? Yes. Okay. So putting that together now. I know that so many estheticians use Environ and really rely on it heavily. It's phenomenal. My very favorite part of it, it's the different forms of Vibna A that we can slowly introduce for 20 years old or for someone 50 years old, but with very reactive skin. And they are just mentally scared that A will do something wrong to them because there is this thing that, it depends.
39:22Joanna Czech:If you put retinoic acid, which is prescription by Nae, it does create reaction. It always creates reaction. Absolutely. And you get only the same percentage. Only retinoic acid, by the way, works on our cellular level. Retinol, retinol palmitate, retinol, and so on, they need to be converted into retinoic acid in order to really work. Yes. But retinoic acid does not necessarily belong on the surface of the skin. Yeah, because that's so you don't like retinoin. I don't love prescription Vimna A because I've seen a lot of irritation. But they are really, you get results without irritation, without being worried if it's sunny, if it's winter, if it's summer.
40:18Joanna Czech:The idea is to use Vimna A on a daily basis. That's the most important vitamin in our healthy body, in our healthy skin. Yeah. Really, this is something that keeps us, that could be a healing element, creating very supportive for our body and skin and having graceful aging. And whatever graceful aging means for people. I mean, you might have some lines, but your skin will be still glowing and looking healthy. Yeah. Yes. I think that's something that some people don't understand. And I've seen this on social media before. You've got this young girl who's like, why wouldn't you use tretinoin prescription retinoic acid?
41:01It's the strongest you can get. And then these other ones are weaker, weaker, weaker. Why would you use those? And I have this visual. I'm like, oh, I have this visual in my head that straight retinoic acid is like 100 proof vodka, you know and then retinol with an a is is maybe like a regular bottle of vodka and then retinol with an o is like a martini and then you have like a spritzer is a retinol ester but they all have alcohol they all convert to retinoic acid eventually at the end we start and only one form
41:38Joanna Czech:that we store in our skin is retinol palmitite we don't store vimea in any other form and we We need tons of it to protect us from the sun, to create skin very healthy. That retinopalmitate has ability to convert into retinol, retinal aldehyde, and into retinoic acid. And then also it's very important that we have tons of it because Vimna A exposed to the light. Even here in the room, right away it's being diminished. So let's say 10 minutes outdoors with Vimna A will remove 3 % of your Vimna A in your skin. And to rebuild it, you would need to remain for seven days in a very dark room to get 2 % back.
42:26Joanna Czech:So we keep losing that Vimna A. That's why we need tons of it. We consume it. We consume beta-carotene and so on. And there are fatty fish and meat that we get retinol from. But main storage of our Vimna A is skin. It's our liver. We store it in the cells because cells in order to exist need Vimna A. There are very small little paths for Vimna A to even penetrate. In our keratonocytes, we have little pathways that Vimna A only penetrates. It's not that you apply and it's going to go anywhere. If those little pathways get destroyed, PAMNA will not penetrate and will not do anything. And it does not matter if you apply retinoic acid or retinal palmitite.
43:14Joanna Czech:So it really does not matter. That's why you need that healthy skin. So A, A, A, that's just... Your skin will be thicker. Your epidermis will get thicker. Your skin will be less reactive. Less reactive to the sun. Dr. Des Fernandes, he does say that if you have proper amounts of Vimna A in your system, in your skin, that equals almost SPF 20. That doesn't excuse you from using it, but that's how much less reactive you will be. But you need that Vimna A to even keep healthy pathways for A to penetrate. So it's like the whole vicious circle, but that's how important that Vimna A is. So versus retinoic acid or retinol.
44:01Joanna Czech:That's what we don't use during the day. Retinol, palmitite, you can use during the day. Okay. I remember the Olay scientist back in the day, Dr. Frohke, talking about this, that it was a myth that you couldn't use the version you just said during the day. You can actually use it during the day. You use day and night, absolutely. So this is why there's confusion out there about whether retinol as a category creates sun sensitivity or not? No, there is one particular form. I mean, retinoic acid is the most irritating. It's acid, retinol, alcohol form of IMA-A. But the rest are really esters. They are not as aggressive topically, but still only 3 % of it will become retinoic acid.
44:49Joanna Czech:That's all what we need. So it really is important to find the right retinol that your skin can tolerate. can tolerate. Yes, you really are like you and your specialist, you become your own doctor a little bit. And I definitely don't recommend using during the summer prescription Vimna-A. If you are a fan of it, great, because retinoic acid, that's only one form that really does that job. But we have ways of applying something not so aggressive topically that still becomes retinoic acid. So Vimna-A, it's a must in my opinion. Yeah, amazing. We've covered a lot there. It's amazing.
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48:55Well, let's talk about other elements of people's routine, what they're getting right, what they're getting wrong. What are people getting wrong about cleansing that might be sabotaging the rest of their routine?
49:06Joanna Czech:About cleansing, I mean, first of all not cleansing at night that's that's the first thing what means double cleanse sometimes you know for me uh double cleanse could be if you are makeup uh user then would be again wipes not to mess up your white towel and then cleanser or as i mentioned balm and then a gentle cleanser you don't need to use acidic cleanser whatsoever if i mean i'm if i'm not a user i don't need any other stripping off natural oils. People get sometimes to town with, you need to be rosy and pink and burning because otherwise it does not work. You can treat your skin with such a respect.
49:49Joanna Czech:Maybe it will take a few days longer, but you can do it gently. So double cleanse, I recommend twice a week, but it's a little different double cleanse. You cleanse your skin with your proper cleanser on a given day. I have 12 different cleansers, but only because of different consistency. That's my form of decongestion. After that, when my skin is already clean, twice a week, I put pre-cleanse oil. Oil works as a dozen crusted, so softens potential sebum. There is zero sebum my age, but or dehydrated patches. And then I put hydrating clay mask over it and kind of massage it together. Whatever oil dissolved or softened, clay mask with kaolin is going to detach it.
50:37Joanna Czech:And that's my form of double cleanse or rather almost exfoliation, that mild exfoliation that you don't need to scrub your skin. Do you let the clay mask harden? This is not the hardening one and I actually activate it with water, both factors with water. We very often use this combination for massages. By the time I'm done with 30 minutes massage, the skin is already clean. Oxidized part of comedone is gone. I don't need to torture the skin. Yes. I love those videos. I see them all the time. People, it's almost like there's sebum. It's like you're saying, it's like oil pulling almost for the pores.
51:14Joanna Czech:Oil dissolves. Yes. That's the fact, which some trends, I'm not going to say who and why. they put olive oil all over the body for three months because that was celebrated and the whole world does it that oil will dehydrate your skin and you will be breaking out the skin is such a smart organ that's going to be producing more oil to to to offer that lipidic layer because you completely destroyed it by putting olive oil on your skin we i use olive oil to remove shoes kits. It's a very powerful agent, but removes rubber from the floor. So it definitely is going to dehydrate your skin, not after one or two usages.
51:54Joanna Czech:So you are in a situation that you need to do it. But if you do for three months every single day, it's going to dehydrate your skin. I'm glad someone's done that experiment and I don't have to. Yeah. Yes. What is the clay mask that you use? Again, the clay mask that I use, it's Environ. Okay. Hydrating clay mask or exfoliating clay mask, the one that really does not harden. Yes. But you know, there are other masks. You could make the mask that becomes very cementy at the end, but if you are activating with water, there are just ways of working it in. And I just educate clients. If they say they have their own clay mask and they are not interested in purchasing it, I said, just make sure that you don't allow it to harden because I think your skin is already too thin or too dehydrated.
52:42Joanna Czech:that's not necessarily a mask for you. Yes. What about facial mists? Because there's a lot of them on the market. So what I understand, after washing your face, there is to me not applying anything before you applied balancing pH controlling toner. That's the way how I was taught. There is a technique of application that if you do twice a day or anytime you wash your face, you can create more hydration and the skin looks plumpier for 15 seconds. But if you do for 50 years, twice a day, it really changes condition of the skin. So it depends what is it just hydrator or does it have proper pH? The healthiest pH of human skin is 5 to 5.9, slightly acidic.
53:32Joanna Czech:If it gets too close to alkaline level, then we can start experiencing some inflammatory situations. If it gets very acidic, skin will be very dehydrated and burning and uncomfortable. First thing what's going to happen, lipidic layer will be affected if it's wrong pH. Then we start experiencing trans epidermal water loss. Then skin feels dehydrated, micro swelling, red patch. And then we have inflammation, fully blown, breakout and so on. Starts with proper pH. So mist could be hydrating and comforting. There are essences that they call them. Also toners and so on. I just love simple name toner with proper pH.
54:23Joanna Czech:Yeah. About 5 to 5.5, 4.5 to 5.5. After washing the face, we might dilute that acidity. So I want to bring it down again, like make a little lower. What we are exposed to, what we drink, what we eat, changes of the temperature, especially from heat to cold. So now it's going to be in the summer when you walk in from 40 degrees Celsius to freezing apartment or in the winter the other way around. That changes pH of the skin. You know, I love thermal water from Avene, healed so many burn victims. So mist as a mist, depending if it has probiotic, if it has proper pH, then also I think it could be used as a treatment.
55:10Joanna Czech:Otherwise, it's a comforting and hydrating thing to finish your makeup, to start your makeup. I don't love applying serums, and mine is Vimna A, right over evaporating water. It's like almost you prepare the wall for painting without the primer. You scraped it or buffed it and then did not put the primer and you want to put. So I consider my toner almost as a primer for the rest of the... Me too. That's how I use it every single day. What's the one that is pH balanced? Is it Environ? It's Joanna Check. It's Joanna Check. Another one is actually Exquisite. My friend has line Exquisite and love the toner very much.
55:56Joanna Czech:5.5 pH. And, you know, there is Balancing Water by Swiss Perfection. Beautiful iris scent. I don't love scented products, but that iris is like sexy Swiss men. So like I when I when I sell it to clients, it's just like sexy Swiss men on your face. OK, so this has been fantastic, Joanne. I'm going to ask you one last question before we let you go. Last one. I don't want to go. I know we don't want to go. That means we have to have you back. That's what that means. Do you take supplements and which ones really make a difference? Because I know that you're a very inside-out beauty person. So give us your supplement secrets.
56:38Joanna Czech:I'm that very inside-out beauty person because I think 70 % the way how we feel and look, it's really in our hands. And whatever we do as an esthetician or maybe an aesthetic dermatologist or so on, that's like 20-30%. Otherwise, that holistic approach that was always me, first as an athlete, then twice as a cancer patient, so, so important. what you put into your body. My very favorite supplement, I mean, I'm on Vimna D, but also maybe with the way how I approach San or maybe my diet and so on, I never was D deficient, where actually when I mentioned earlier those SPF 100s, 80 % of generation is Vimna D deficient.
57:22Joanna Czech:Right. So then we go from extreme to extreme. Yeah. And then Vimna D and nitric oxide and then heart attacks, right? Yes. So my very favorite is magnesium. Right. Okay. And we have all the, all different types of magnesiums. I'm not even going to break my tongue to try to name at least three or four forms, but I take all of them. They are amazing for your brain. They are amazing for your muscles. They prevent cramping or they help you with quicker recovery after workouts. They actually, again, strengthen your skin and beautifully work with vitamin D on your nitric oxide. So we are talking about proper quality of your veins and capillaries.
58:12Joanna Czech:Bring skin's hydration and strength again. So magnesium, if I would have to choose one, I would go for that. Okay. And then the very last thing, Joanna, little birdie told me that you're writing a book. What is this? I am, I am, uh, I'm being interviewed, so I don't know how to refer to it. I guess that's going to be in Poland. We call it, uh, I will say in Polish, or interview river, which is a question and my long, long answers. It's not going to be scientific book. It will be probably my life which you don't realize a memoir I think uh and and maybe my jokes a little bit because I can never never say anything with a straight face and uh the first one will be in Polish but I was very very honored to be approached by a agency that they thought that would be very interesting okay and majority of people don't know many things about you're the true story The true story.
59:16Joanna Czech:Wow. Okay. Well, I am intrigued. I will translate it to you. I will read it to you and translate. Maybe one day translation. Okay. Well, I love this idea and such a pleasure to have you on the show. Thank you so much. Thanks for having me again. Thanks for listening. You can find details on every product mentioned in today's episode, along with our exclusive promo codes on our blog at BreakingBeautyPodcast.com. While you're there, be sure to sign up for our newsletter. Every episode will be delivered directly to your inbox so you won't miss a single thing. And get social with us. Let us know what you think of the episode.
59:53You can follow us on Instagram at Breaking Beauty Podcast. And did you know we also have a private Facebook group? Just search Breaking Beauty Podcast chat room. You can even leave us a voicemail at any time with questions or feedback at 1-844-227-0302. And don't forget to subscribe to us wherever you get your podcast fix. Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and Apple Podcasts, where you can show us some love by writing a review. See you next Wednesday.
1:00:36Please note that this episode may contain paid endorsements and advertisements for products and services. individuals on the show may have a direct or indirect financial interest in products or services referred to in this episode.
From the publisher
Joanna Czech believes that three minutes of sun exposure a day is good for your skin - say what?! The celebrity facialist with more than four decades of experience (her client roster includes everyone from Anna Wintour, Kim Kardashian and Hailey Bieber) also thinks you should incorporate vitamin A “training” before any skin treatments and/or plastic surgery. Plus, are exosomes just a trend?
This week we’re welcoming Joanna back to the show and getting totally unfiltered about everything skin-related, so buckle up — you’re in for a thought-provoking ride!
You’ll discover:
- How to transition your routine for summer — why Joanna doesn’t believe in switching creams based on the weather, but rather on your skin’s specific needs
- How to practice intermittent sun exposure the right way — and yes, she does believe it’s good for you
- The No. 1 treatment to get rid of hyperpigmentation, according to the pro
- Microneedling for rosacea? It’s a yes, says Joanna
- Why “vitamin A training” is a must before any professional skin treatment or surgery, in her experience
- Exosomes in skincare? Not for this esthetician
- Why your daytime skin routine really begins at night
- Vitamin A 101: why she is saying ‘no’ to prescription retinoids, and yes to over-the-counter derivatives for better results
- The importance of resetting your skin pH before the rest of your skincare steps
- Her surprising expert hack for using clay masks!
- The one supplement she uses every day that truly makes a difference
Pssst - If you want to learn more about Joanna’s spas, you can find more info on her New York atelier here, her Dallas spa here, and her Beverly Hills outpost here.
Disclaimer: Please note the discussion in today’s podcast is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute the practice of medicine, nursing or other professional health care services, including the giving of medical advice. The content of this podcast is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or qualified healthcare provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
For any products or links mentioned in this episode, check out our website: https://breakingbeautypodcast.com/episode-recaps/
Related episodes like this:
- Fashion’s Favourite Facialist, Joanna Czech
- Everything to Know About The French Pharmacy Inspired Vitamin A Skin Ointment by Cassatt Beauty
- 7 Ways to Future-Proof Your Skin According to Celebrity Esthetician Crystal Koro Plus! We Try Liquid Microneedling
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