Charlotte Palermino Returns! Hot Takes on P50’s Reformulation, K-Beauty SPF Scarcity and Do We Need Beef Tallow in Our Moisturizer?

23:46And I honestly have gotten every single order. I understand that some people never got their order and it's why I would never recommend it. doing a$500 order on Stylevana, I would recommend actually splitting it up. Okay. Yeah. Good tip. I just received the Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen. So that's charging ahead. That's a new launch. It's a zinc. It is zinc. Yeah. Uncoated, no PA rating on it. And it's an SPF 40. Yeah. So I was a little bit bummed. Yeah. I mean, I didn't love it. I did try it. I think they're trying their best and they'll keep coming out with great launches. Yeah.

24:22It's pretty like, it's very, very sheer, but it was like a little whitish, I thought. A little white cast? Okay. A little bit. White cast on white people is not a good sign. But it comes in like 12 shades. So I will say that's just the shade I tried. Maybe I need to go darker. I don't know. I like the texture. Yeah.

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28:42What else for skincare that you can't stop talking about? I think I'm really excited about delivery systems in skincare and how we're getting ingredients into the skin. And then also how can we make things more efficacious so like that you have, you can use less of them. That really excites me. And then obviously I will never stop talking about getting new sunscreen filters approved in the U.S. because honestly, like I've had, I've cut back on my routine so much ever since using, you know, sunscreen. And I've been really into milky toners. I don't think that we've, I don't think we've reached peak toner world.

29:17I think that a lot of people are starting to understand that there's like, just because it's called a toner, it doesn't really mean anything. And so there's a lot of places where you can play, but there's so much pollution right now that I really like antioxidants in my routine. And so it's really easy to use these like antioxidant, like spray toner type things. And so like Boom Boom Milk from Violet packed with antioxidants, refreshes your makeup. So good. It's a fantastic product. And I don't really know that many that are like, a lot of them focus on hydration. So I'm excited to see where we go from there.

29:47Yeah. Favorite step of my routine. What do you make of the whole beauty slowdown, that's been a headline. Who's like avoiding the slowdown? Who's accelerating downhill? Let's unpack this. I think we just saw like Estee Lauder just laid off like 7 ,000 people, you know? And I think, yeah, just these bigger companies that dominated are just definitely, it's grinding to a halt in some respects. I mean, I think it's like beauty slowdown for who? I don't see K-Beauty slowing down. I don't see brands like Rode slowing down. Yeah, exactly. I don't know. Well, recipe, killing it. You know, I think there is a slowdown because there's just too much shit in the market.

30:29And we also only have one face. We only have one body. I think also the myth of like people wanting luxury body care has been busted as well. Like, I think that the prices of skincare are being driven down a bit and cosmetics. I think that is the K-Beauty effect. when you're in Korea, you can find top quality, top-notch products with much lower margins. Yeah. It's because it's a more competitive market. And I think that's the transition that the U.S. is starting to go through now, is that it's becoming an extremely competitive market. You have people that are coming in. We now have tariffs for everybody sourcing their packaging from, because for those who don't know, the tariff now in China is directly impacting your packaging.

31:06And some brands, their packaging is more expensive than their formula. Right. So the way that that impacts their cost of goods sold, the COGS, and then how that then impacts their bottom line and how they've been operating business, plus the added reality that the attention economy, like in the United States right now, everything is on social. That's all of our marketing. And you're competing with people doing the most insane things in the highest levels of power. And so it's like you're... What can break through that? What will break through that noise? It's becoming increasingly challenging.

31:40And so, and also some people are just completely logging off. Like, I can't look at this anymore. And so I think that when you add all of these things, there's a correction happening right now. I wouldn't say it's a slowdown, but I would say it's a correction that's been needing to happen. Yeah, I agree. And I'm excited for this. Like, we're seeing innovation. Like, we are seeing it. And I'm excited to see how we get scrappy from here. Yeah, I agree. I want to talk about dermfluencers. What do you make of Dermfluencers and the disclosures? And are they as trustworthy as we've been? Look, we've been hanging off their words.

32:17I think it's weird to follow influencers that have no medical degree, no medical training, and we follow them for medical advice. I think that is really weird. Like you're asking them about their supplements and about their skincare routine, just because you like their vibes. I think that that is a really interesting part. I mean, even for me, I get really nervous sometimes. And I am so lucky that I have a chemist as my co-founder. I have a dermatologist advisor. I have people on speed dial that I check things with a lot. I even have a friend who's a mathematician. I'm like, did I? Is a math mathing?

32:49Because I'm not a mathematician. And so I take that very seriously because it's quite easy to get people to follow you. But it's pretty easy to also alienate them if you put out something that's factually incorrect. and if you're building a community on trust. And so my take is, is that, you know, DERMS, the disclosure thing is a problem to me sometimes. I can tell when something's a sponsored post. I also think there's best practices when you're creating content where you put at the top of the fold, they say the top of the fold, versus when you collapse it, that it's a sponsored post. I think there are just things that you should be doing because you are being held to a higher standard.

33:27But also you're using your background as a stance of credibility. And so when you put on that lab coat and you actually earned the lab coat or the doctor's coat, what do you call it? Yeah. Lab coat. Is it a lab coat that doctors wear? Yeah. I think so. I do not know. The white coat. As a non-doctor. For lack of a better term. Yeah. The white jacket. Yeah. And I think that you are the scrubs or whatever it is. You are signaling credibility. So follow it up. And you are being held to a higher standard. So live up to it. Yeah. I agree. I think. I see some germs doing it well, though. And I think that's actually been what I've been like, oh, yeah, that there's a difference.

34:05Yeah, right. I think the reality is practice. We're all like anybody who is a content creator, period, is making money some way, somehow. And, you know, there's money or gifts or whatever being exchanged. I think that it's all about transparency, really, at the end of the day. because even if you look at there's some doctors or or whomever out there and they don't necessarily do brand deals but they kind of have this like truthiness about them but then they're selling a book it's like well you can't pretend that you're not compromised like literally we've had people on the show or seen people in the media who are like i never do any i will never do any sponsorships so i am like in in essence i'm the only truth teller out there it's like but you have a brand Yeah.

34:54You have your own brand. Like, how can you actually say that? You know what I mean? So that's kind of how we operate as podcasters. We're content creators. We always disclose if it's a partnership, a sponsorship or whatever. And I've seen some of our guests on other shows. I mean, I do that with my brand where I'm like, yeah, I don't make an affiliate link on this, but I own this brand. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So use your brain. Yeah, exactly. I mean, when we do this, there's a funny way to do it too, where it's like, listen, like, Like, you know, we all have, we're also all on social. Like, it's all, like, it's, yeah.

35:26But you're not sitting there saying, I don't take any sponsorship, so therefore listen to me. I like a brand. I hope you sponsor. Right? If I talk about you, brand, please sponsor me. I'm just out here. Yeah, exactly. Just spreading the word for free. But I will say that, think about it this way. When you're a dermatologist, you are able to educate one-to-one. And I think that the clinical experience in explaining things to your patients is unparalleled, right? Like, Joyce, my co-founder, is a chemist. She's never had to deal with multiple patients a day. And so, you know, that's an experience that's important.

35:59So being able to then communicate to thousands, if not millions of people, that is so valuable. Absolutely. And you have the experience. And even if you haven't practiced as a dermatologist, but you have the background and knowledge and you're clear, like, okay, I haven't gone through residency and I haven't practiced, I'm actually okay with that too. Again, it's that transparency thing. Yeah. It's that transparency thing. But I'm a fan of the education. Like, I really am. You know, that's the only way that the masses would get it. Not everybody's going to a dermatologist. You know, not everybody is going to a dermatologist.

36:28Yeah. Not really in this country. Not really going to afford one. Yeah. I don't know what it's like in Canada with derms. No, it's impossible. I was going to say, it must be really hard. It's really difficult. We want to talk about your top shelf. What are some recent launches that have just annoyed you that you've tried and why? I mean, I'm very much so of the mindset that it's not for me, but it might be for someone. It's like dating men. That's for someone. Yeah. Plus not for me. Right. And so I have a hard time like nagging on launches. For me, launches that bother me, I guess any launch that's like in the beef tallow world just f***ing infuriates me because it's not that I actually don't think beef tallow has a place.

37:11Listen, I'm European. I'm French. my people brought that over to the U.S. Right. They would use the innards of animals and then you basically render the fat and then that's the beef talad cream and they're treating it like it's a miracle that they discovered. No. Can't colonize something that was already colonized. Stop it. Not new. And also like animal byproducts are used in skincare all the time. Like it's just, it's an annoying marketing hook to make it seem like there's some conspiracy. They're trying to keep it from you. The skincare industry is trying to keep this secret from you. No. squalane is an incredible mimetic to sebum and it's more sustainably sourced.

37:48It takes forever to go rancid, whereas beef towel can go rancid very quickly. There are just better ingredients out there. Do I think that there's a place for beef towel? If you like it and you're using it, great. But every time I see a brand launch and it's talking about it like it's the second coming, I'm like, that's a cult, babe. This is just a cult. Also, using pure beef fat on your face over time can actually potentially break down your skin barrier. So it might be great initially, But if your skin starts to get sensitized over time, just watch out for that. It's just crazy because I hear these things.

38:17I see the videos and I'm like, no one's actually using that. Primally Pure, I think, is at over, it's like$100 million. Do you just see business? So then I go on Amazon and you see it. Number two thing being sold. Yeah. Beef tallow. It's being sold at my salon. There's a beef tallow brand. Wow. Yeah. Yeah. And I think it's like, it's trending. But TikTok shop, I think, has been a massive proponent of beef tallow. and there's hooks that you notice that everybody copies. And this hook is, this dermatologist is being silenced by the skincare industry for his truth on beef tallow. And I'm like, nobody's silencing this man.

38:52Also, it's a chiropractor again. Or like a neurologist. Right, right. A neurologist. And I'm like, well, nobody's silencing him, but he's certainly not the authority. Yeah. Yeah, exactly. Exactly.

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41:11Do you ever get bored of skincare? I think I get bored about the mentality sometimes or like how we approach, like I feel like I'm, I guess not bored. I get frustrated. Okay. I love beauty. I think it's a fascinating subject. I want there to be more acceptance for different kinds of beauty. And I think that beauty standards are made up. So it's really interesting to like talk about like the fairy tales and like everybody's different groups. I think that's fascinating. But beauty does impact how you feel. Yeah. It just does. Yeah. And so I know I guess the answer is no. But like, okay, do I get bored with launches sometimes?

41:47Yes. Yeah. Oh, my God. Do we need another hyaluronic acid serum? Yeah. Do we? Yeah. Yeah. Me too. I think there was that peak, right, in 2020. And then I think we're just sort of, people are just sort of like reassessing and seeing what they actually need. And what's exciting you in terms of innovation? Because you get to see a lot as you're formulating. And is there any other news you want to share here? No. Because like Joyce is working on something really cool that she just taught me. I can't talk about it though because I don't want anyone else to start researching. She's actually doing some cool IP.

42:21Yeah. She's the best. I'm excited with treatments. Does that count? Sure. I think treatments. I got Botox for the first time. Oh. Like three or four months ago. And? It works. Yeah. Wow. I'm 37 and I got it for the first time. I do think preventative Botox is the dumbest thing I've ever heard in my life. Agree. Well, I'm just like, and this is like actually where I'm like, doctors, please stop doing this. It's creating stress and anxiety where it doesn't need to be. When you start to see the wrinkles forming, sure. But before they form to prevent them, I think that's a, unless if you are independently wealthy, it's a waste of money.

42:57And as somebody who was very much so struggling financially in her early to mid-20s, the thought of somehow scrambling together 500 bucks is absolutely insane to me. And you shouldn't even be, you shouldn't even be talking about it. Yeah. Because you're creating that stress and anxiety. Totally agree. But I love microneedling. I'm excited for PDRN for getting over here. Yeah. Hopefully. I love going to, I was in Seoul last year, thanks to Beauty of Joseon. I went on a brand trip with them, which was so cool. But I got to do like that thing where you go into the medical clinics and like you're there for like seven hours.

43:31Yeah. It was so fun. But just the way that they approach aesthetics is just totally different. Like here we're like, it's going to empower you and they're they're like oh people look sick yeah so don't look sick they literally had a powerpoint i honestly was like i was like i kind of appreciate the blunt no filter yeah no filter no filter but it's also funny because like they're just like okay well this is the beauty standard that you're going for then do this and you're like hard to argue sir and so don't dance around it they're just they're like and i'm kind of excited for k beauty to come to the u.s and a more like retailers are starting to pick them up yeah and i'm excited for that because i think that beauty has been a little bit inflated in price in the U.S.

44:08What I will say, though, with K-Beauty brands and the things that people don't know, they do something called dusting a lot. And I only know this because Joyce actually used to work at a K-Beauty contract manufacturer that she actually brought into the U.S. as well. They do something called dusting. And so I think that K-Beauty products are superior for textures. But if the price is really, really cheap and they're claiming like 30 active ingredients, it's probably only one or two that are active. So that's like my one thing is I'm like, oh, look, I wish they were just like a little, they're marketing geniuses.

44:34Yeah. But sometimes I'm like, ooh, they're setting an expectation up in the mind of consumers that every brand should have these 30 ingredients. Right. But like really they just have like nice and might in it. Yeah. Yeah. I think the price point is, it can't be beat. It really can't be beat. It can't be. It's really interesting to me that Sephora has not doubled down on K-Beauty. They really haven't. That's all I will say. Okay. Eyes. We got an eye look. We got a look. Am I wrong? Am I wrong? I think it's... Oh, no. I don't think you're wrong. They have... What's that? Dan Dan? Then I met you.

45:07Then I met you. And that one I want to try that you're just mentioning, but I haven't tried it. Yeah. So cool. Yeah. Oh, their gondola is so pretty. Glow Recipe is obviously K-Beauty adjacent. Sure. They are K-Beauty. But they're not in the sense of the price. They're not COSRX. No. You know? COSRX. I've heard rumors is all I will say. Yeah. which will massively shift how people buy in those stores. But it's like the ordinary. Yeah. On parallel prices. Yeah. The thing is you just cannot get mad about the formula. When people complain about the formula, I'm like, it was$15. Yeah, yeah. Oh, the texture.

45:42Yeah, that's why it's$15. Go to Niod if you want a nice texture. Actually, in Canada, Holt Renford just introduced K-Beauty. They just brought in a whole bunch of brands. I'm sorry, K-Beauty from an experiential standpoint, from the fact that you can use, you know, it's just so gentle. Yeah. Like they're very focused on barrier. It's tough to beat. It's tough to beat, especially in a world where if you want to spend money, go get like microneedling or laser and then use K-Beauty. Like you're going to have a good skincare routine. And it's why our prices, like we're trying to keep them as transparent as possible because, you know, we know that we need to compete with K-Beauty.

46:16Yeah. What are you de-influencing lately? I don't know if I want to say this because I'm like, it's like against my brand. I just haven't been wearing that much sunscreen this winter. mic drop clip it uh it's largely because i actually don't know if i can get my sunscreens anymore for the summer so i'm rationing so to be clear but i use a lot less and it's because you know when the uv index is under two and i work in an office all day realistically the amount of uv i'm getting is quite low but the thing is i because i retinol and laser my face to hell and back like i also don't want to take any chances like everyone's like whenever somebody's like oh like there's no risk for for like skin cancer i'm like sure but like have they ever studied somebody that puts their skin through what I put my skin through.

46:58So I've actually been relying on my like makeups SPF or like a tiny dab of sunscreen. And I have a UV camera. And so I've been like monitoring my dark spots and nothing's progressed. So you have a UV camera at home? I have like seven. Oh. Okay. So the first time I bought it, I found, do you remember the campaign by Dove where they had people with sunscreen? I think it was Dove. It might not be Dove, But there was a campaign with a large conglomerate that basically had the UV camera on the street. And so this was before UV cameras were readily available. Now you can just buy them on Amazon. I didn't know that.

47:34I have like a 5 ,000. I like literally like saved up forever. So if you look at my videos from 2020, I basically saved forever for this. It's a$5 ,000 camera. I was like, oh, it's a business write-off. Not understanding that you don't get the money back on business write-offs. It's like that shit's creep. Taxes, learning taxes. Write it off. Yeah, tax codes. And so, but it was, it's a super high def. And so I have that one, harder to use, but it was the guy who made the camera for the campaign. So he made me a UV camera because I begged him. I found him on the 10. You could be renting that out on Pickle.

48:05You know, you know that Pickle app? I'm not joking. Recoup some of that cost. I'm like, one day do is going to have a sunscreen and we're going to make people stand in front of this very high res UV camera. Yeah. What is happening? I'm going to move on to a little bit of social media. What's happening with TikTok shop? Are you on TikTok shop? Oh, yeah. Yeah. So I'm on TikTok shop. I actually don't promote TikTok shop as much anymore because I find it actually throttling my performance. Okay. It's not performing as well as it used to. Okay. So I would say, I mean, I love TikTok shop. I think it's, it's just so many wonderful things for Do.

48:40Do is still on TikTok shop. I love the, I love how transparent it is. People are like, oh my God, like TikTok's all ads now. And I'm like, it always was. You're just disclosing it now. Right. Like I, the amount of undisclosed ads on that platform is met. And I think because we work in the industry, we know when something is an ad. A hundred percent. And well, in some of them, I can actually like, they're verbatim, the brief that I got. And I'm like, wow. Okay. And they didn't disclose. I was like, cool, cool, cool. And so you're, and then you're called a hater when you point it out. So now I don't even point it out anymore.

49:15I'm like, whatever. Like, it's not, I'm going to teach y 'all how to Keep scrolling. I'm not commenting, but I think it's a more honest transaction. It's a more honest video. Yeah. Okay. Just having that big yellow or orange cart. But yeah, I mean, Dewa sold like tens of thousands of products on TikTok shop. Incredible. See, we don't have TikTok shop in Canada. I've never seen it. Yeah. But I understand the power of it. Are you getting it now? Not at the moment. I don't know what's going to happen, but maybe they'll open it up. But no, now that you're in the U.S. No, no, because my account is...

49:44Your address is Canada. Yeah. Is there anything else that is kind of popping off for you right now that, or is blowing up your DMs, people are talking to you a lot about on social? I think people really want to understand the minutiae because I do think that with some of these launches, you do have to be an expert to be able to tell the difference between them. Like it's like the difference of like two or three ingredients. And so people really want to understand what they should and shouldn't be buying. I also think, do you feel like right now the beauty slowdown is just what happened in 2018 with all of like the naked palettes?

50:14that's what I feel like is kind of happening right now. With skincare. Yeah. Yeah. I think that there's, it's just kind of an inevitability of, of it being like a peak and then a bit of a petering off and the cream. And then it's going to just keep going up and down. We'll see palettes come back again, you know? Exactly. Well, I'm like, I feel like everyone's obsessed with makeup right now and playing and drawing on their face. And I'm always like, maybe it's because like we're in a moment of like economic like contraction. And so, you know, it's like people want to like play and like, you know, dissociate.

50:43But yeah. What launch have you been the most excited about in beauty recently? Honestly, it's all sunscreen. All sunscreen. It's all sunscreen. Any new one that you tried that you're obsessed with? I'm really excited about Ultraviolet coming into the U.S. Yeah. Actually. Let's talk about that. So full disclosure, I love the founders back in Ava. They're absolute gems. We met one of them last year. I forget which one, but they came to Canada last year. God, they're so cool. So they really get it. They understand I make great sunscreens. Yeah. And I just know they're going to be good. Are they going to be as good as their Australian formulas?

51:17Here's my thing. I'm like, if they were as good, then why wouldn't you just also launch those American formulas in Australia? So I'm just kind of like, they're going to be, I know they're going to be as good as you can make them in the United States. And in a time where there's a contraction of Korean sunscreen and we're not going to be able to get our hands on it as easily, I'm very happy that there's going to be an option that people can quickly get. Yeah. That's fantastic. Which formula have you liked the most? I only know the bottle colors. I know, right? I'm like the fluid. Yes. Is like the road milky toner.

51:48Yeah. I'm glad we're talking about this because we talked about it last year, but I do agree that this coming into the U.S. is going to be a game changer. Big time. Yeah. Make Supergoop scared. I don't. Supergoop sunscreens do not suit me at all. I actually like some of their, I like some of their formulas, but it's like we need more competition. We need the large conglomerates to understand this is a massive market. And I think they do get it. You like? It's so good. Yeah. Okay, everyone. It's called the Fave Fluid Ultralight Screen SPF 50. Carlene's talked about it many times. So get your hands on that.

52:22I'm excited. That's great. Well, thank you so much for your time. Thank you for having me. And sounding off on all of these hot topic headlines. Always great. Love it. Everybody follow Charlotte on TikTok and Instagram. At Charlotte Parlay. And everybody needs to follow Dew Skin as well. Oh, yeah. Follow Dew. At Dew Skin. Your brand. Thanks for listening. You can find details on every product mentioned in today's episode, along with our exclusive promo codes on our blog at breakingbeautypodcast.com. While you're there, be sure to sign up for our newsletter. Every episode will be delivered directly to your inbox so you won't miss a single thing.

52:58And get social with us. Let us know what you think of the episode. You can follow us on Instagram at Breaking Beauty Podcast. And did you know we also have a private Facebook group? Just search Breaking Beauty Podcast chat You can even leave us a voicemail at any time with questions or feedback at 1-844-227-0302. And don't forget to subscribe to us wherever you get your podcast fix. Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and Apple Podcasts, where you can show us some love by writing a review. See you next Wednesday.

53:46Please note that this episode may contain paid endorsements and advertisements for products and services. Individuals on the show may have a direct or indirect financial interest in products or services referred to in this episode.