How-to Make Your Makeup Last Longer! A 101 Masterclass on Skin Prep, Primers, Powders & Setting Sprays with Makeup Artist Pro Ruby Hammer, MBE

26:26And the more is on there and you haven't allowed it to sink in is when that caking is going to happen. And also you need to check which area you're more prone to caking. And it's usually around here. Yeah, your marionette lines. and then under the eye, you know, a bit. People don't normally cake here in that part of the cheek. So when you know that it's those areas, be less, make sure you actually look and that you've blended this area, especially the T's on there. And under the eyes, sometimes I do it and say it's a concealer. I do a layer of foundation first. If you're going to do foundation and concealer, foundation goes on first, nice and light-handed.

27:09an even tone it'll have taken out 80 % of that uniformity brightness it doesn't have to be everywhere it could just be finger dipped or with a sponge with a brush whatever hint of it then you need your concealer to do the work that's needed on your other areas so is it dark circles or is it pigmentation or is it puffiness or is it an actual blemish like I have a nice fine one on my nose here but whatever that is that you need to so you need the appropriate concealer to hide it then you will need a translucent powder of some sort to set that all in place but the nicest time to do that is just as I'm going to set it I just look again in the time it's taken it could be five minutes it could be in half an hour because you're doing all this just take a little q-tip and run it along there so there's no excess so smooth it out with a sponge or a cutip and then set it that should help the caking that you're not that you've seen it you've registered it i'm still going to just put the powder on no yeah we thought so it's it's exactly that kind of to make you pay heed because i think a lot of us whether you're a just i only have a few products i don't use much makeup or I'm a full-blown I'm going to use a lot of makeup.

28:33We kind of sequentially, religiously empty our bag out and we feel we have to use every single thing in that sequence that we use every single day. Your mind floats off, you're not actually looking and seeing what is there. Whereas as a paid expert, I have to look. I can't drift off and think about, oh I've got to and that email. I should have done that. I should have done that. You have to really look and look for 30 seconds, five seconds. Oh, that is perfect. I need a bit more there. Yeah. That could do with another layer. And good lighting too. I mean, I've done... Fantastic, even lighting.

29:10Yeah. So it's not above you. Yeah. It's not on just on one side of you. So it's not silhouetted. Yes. It's as uniform, great in daylight if you can. If you can't, you get, there are lots of lovely little small things you can get now so that you've got good light. What's your favorite brush to use for setting? It's so funny. I was trained and I used to use a puff. Yeah. And the technology has advanced so much that the powders are milled so nicely and without talc and things like that. So I don't need to go puff, puff, puff. Sometimes I still do. It's my old technique that I can do it all over, but it's such a fine layer and then I do the rest.

29:53or I use a little small brush. So it's not a big brush, although that's popular, slightly fluffier that I then see where it needs it. So I can strategically put it where it's actually needed and it might be these corners, it might be just a little bit there. On top of the brows. Not top of there, but right on my chin. Just where I see, okay, this needs that bit of powdering. It's funny you talk about powder puffs because when I watch somebody like Makeup by Mario or Hung Van Gogh do their work, they always have their powder puff, but they're removing product. They're not using the powder puff to put powder on their face.

30:36That powder puff, it's exactly for that. It's for placement. It allows you to softly, gently push the face around and you delicately take it. And then they might do a bit of powder or not. But it's also a fine tuning to like, oh, I could just buff away that. That's just a bit much more. I just whisked that away. I was reading on your website that you have a like with like method for setting blush and that you'll actually sometimes use setting powder under blush. So tell us about that. The like on like means any people always talk about cosmetics as only referring to color. But it's not just about color.

31:17It's about texture. Texture is as important as the choice of color. So if you have powder on and then you're going to put a cream blush on there, it will have jarring. It might streak. It might be something because a cream is going on top of a powder surface and vice versa. So what I like is if you're going to use a powder blush in there, then prep that area beforehand. hand so I would do a thin veil dusting of translucent powder to prepare that area bronzers that this was my pet peeve from years ago and everyone would get a big bronzer they do whatever or they just do skincare and then they put the bronzer and I'm like ah that's going on top of your cream and your skin just take a little powder puff or take a whisk of translucent powder dust it all over make sure it's blended in and then put your powder bronzer all over it'll get it'll last longer it will look smoother and more polished same with the blush so if you're going to use a powder blush i prepare the area beforehand if it's going to be a cream blusher no i leave that until i'm done so the cream goes in then you look at it and you think okay that looks great so it gives what that texture is supposed to do like always goes up to like and not just on cheeks same on eyes if you're using a cream eyeshadow or a pencil before powder shadow prepare or just think about it that's all okay okay is this a cream blush we're looking at right here from from your line well i have three cream blushes guys everyone And they're so cute.

33:02They are like a little twist. They almost look like a twist up lollipop. They're like that. And you spin and it twists up. You don't have to spin it all the way up. Yeah. Just a teeny bit. But it's almost like a wider one. Yeah. It looks kind of like what your AirPods would go in. Yes. Like the wider one. Yes. But it twists up like a lipstick. So that's so cool. It is. I love how makeup and packaging looks. because I think we're drawn to this like anything else. Before we see what's inside, you do see what's outside. And there's some amazing formulas that are in some shitty packaging and vice versa.

33:41Yeah. And so you talked about like with like. So this is you have cream blushes at the moment in your line as opposed to powder. So how would we apply this and set it so it lasts all day? Because a lot of cream blushes just kind of evaporate on your skin. You said it. You said it. Cream blushes are amazing because of their ease of use. It's so foolproof. You just use your finger and you do it and it allows you to apply very easily. But the more creamy and duly, the more easier they are to use. Sometimes they're not as long lasting. So this, because I'm an expert and I'm such a fussy expert at that, this has a bit more pigment.

34:24but it allows you the ability to blend and soften it without. So the one thing I would say is don't take that and go straight on your part because you will end up with way too much. I would use my finger or I would use a brush to just take a little bit, wherever you're going to put it on. As we get older, shouldn't be so much on the apples of the cheeks. It's got to be a little bit at the edge of that and up, not too near the eyes, not near the nose and not too low. low yeah because higher than the cheekbone yeah okay and and then just work it in and because as an artist I can't keep stepping in on set or on camera or on the red carpet with anyone this is longer lasting if you want it to have that bit more of a dewier effect you can prep that skin beforehand so not to be horrible to someone like Merit who have some great blushes and I have them.

35:20I love them. But they don't last as well. No, they do not. They disappear. They don't. They do disappear. I love it. And I do have it. But I know that I wanted something that has a tiny bit more longevity. Yeah. And so do you just not need to set it at all? If you did it on bare skin, you might not need to because naturally your skin will secrete some moisture some oil whatever and it'll get nice and dewy but it should last so you might do two layers so it's up to you how much you want to use and if I'm doing everything else I might just do a little dusting at the edge of it yeah to keep it to really make sure it's the ordinance in there okay what about eyes like do you set eyeliner liquid eyeliner mascara how do you avoid all Yeah, how do you avoid all that transferring?

36:12In the old days, there were some things where they used to heavily powder the lashes and then put the mascara on. And I think it was more to build the bulk. I don't know if it did any setting. This turned into a TikTok trend at one point. You know, these are... Sticking your wand into powder, setting powder. All of these are, and this is the wonder of TikTok. They are such visually impressive. if you if if I was on that show then let's make this drip and let's add the color it's visually amazing but I don't think it has any bearing on actual reality or of wearing cosmetics as such so I said if you're going to apply that much product wherever it is you're applying it you're going to need a hell of a lot more elsewhere to match this and it takes a lot of time to blend this down.

37:06Yeah. And you might not succeed. Kids having fun on there, really. It's just visually, it's fantastic. We used to have Barbies, now they have TikTok. Exactly. It's part and parcel of that time. Yeah. But do you have an eye primer specifically that you like? I think one of the original great ones was that Urban Decay one that came in a tube. Yeah, the little really good one. Yes. So, but now there are lots of other ones out there. I don't necessarily use an eye primer unless I know or somebody says to me when they're sharing I have very greasy eyelids and I think okay I'll get a primer I just yeah or it's a bride so I ask her these questions beforehand I always do ask are you allergic to anything are you wearing contact lenses any specific things like how does it normally last or wear with you you glean the information you ask so that I can get some info back sometimes if you do a pencil and you want to smoke it out then I might do a tiny dusting of powder and then put a powder shadow on top of it that will make it really really long lasting and people like Beyonce or Rihanna when they're performing and they're sweating and all that I'm pretty sure they use that technique they would have something first, grip it or, you know, set it with a pair and then they pack on color shadow or something over.

38:28A liquid liner is the most dramatic form. So I don't think you need to set that with anything. A pencil liner, you might. But, you know, you might go over again with just the same color shadow to make it more longer lasting. But liquid liner won't need setting. It is as dramatic as it's going to be.

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40:41Now, we've been talking a lot about setting sprays, which I gathered that's what you're going to use to set something like these multi-purpose, these cream blushes, as opposed to a powder. Tell us what a couple of your favorites are. I find I can barely tell the difference between them, if I'm being honest, but which are the most effective? I think two that I really like is there's a Charlotte Tilbury one, which is lovely, but again, not too near. You don't want to splash. You want to find mist. And then let it dry, let it do its work. And I have to say, I pick and choose when I'm going to use them.

41:19So as a matter of course, I don't, unless it's somebody on red carpet, unless it's somebody on red carpet or somebody I know, oh my God, she's really going to need this. You know, she's a bride that's outdoors or this is going to be a long day for someone. And the other one is, I think it's called One Size, which is fabulous. Oh, yes, of course. Which is fabulous. But it's also very good for if you are greasier or oily skin. It's not going to be great for somebody who has normal to dry skin. Have you tried the waterproof glitter version of that setting spray? I was thinking that. I was like, there's no way now.

41:58I feel like that could be the antithesis of the Ruby Hammer aesthetic. I agree. I'm guessing here. People were using it at Coachella and things like that. Oh, okay. Yeah, yeah. But it like apparently locks your makeup. Like people in the desert where it was 130 degrees, it was like nothing was moving. It was streaming. Yeah, it was just glitter gone wild. But it was really holding the makeup in. So anyways. We're going to have to go check that out then. I won't go. There was a few TikTok videos where girls saw Patrick Starr there and they were like driving by him and they saw him in the next car and they like rolled down the window and then like sprayed their whole face.

42:33And he's like, oh. Like a salute. Oh my gosh. I love that. I think that the reason people are looking for these recommendations so much is because the products are expensive. And so they really want to know before they buy. And you can buy the little... As much as possible. You know, you limit the risk as much as you can. I get that. I do get that. But there is nothing like having that self-knowledge and then having access to something so that really it's like people say, the best recommendation is always word of mouth. Yeah. So take that on. Not just, I wouldn't just be swayed because these are phenomenals, aren't they?

43:12They're social media. Yeah. Yes, exactly. And they are fun. They take on life with their own. Absolutely. Take it with a pinch of salt that you think. I'm going to ask you about setting powder because we've been talking about that a lot today and translucent powder. What's the difference between like the powders that contain some color versus a translucent set it like yeah like foundation powder or setting powder I find it can be sometimes confusing because it's not obvious on the label okay so years ago you would have powder it was just face powder you know it was used to mattify just translucent powder yeah some of it's white like Ben Nye I So imagine it was like, even before Ben 9, so you'd think it would be someone like Max Factor who created that first powder, you know, for film, for black and white photography and things like that.

44:10It would be to set the makeup and to take away the shine. As technology advances, and there's a lot of talc in those ones, and if you were heavy handed, you look like a baker's assistant. You look like, oh my God, I'm a doughboy. Oh boy. Technology has advanced and then they thought, why not introduce a bit of shade? Because it's true. Translucent means it's colourless. Right. So anybody should be able to use it if you're light handed enough. And then the coloured variety is because you're colour correcting a little bit. So you had pale pink or green to take out the red. There was like a lilac to add sallow skin that was a bit more yellow and peaky.

44:54A peachy one if you've got dark patches. And then people, because this is evolution, like in everything and technology and food and whatever it is out there, people think, gosh, wouldn't it be nice to have something that's olive skinned or someone very dark skinned or something like that? So they started introducing that. And now there are such beautiful formulas out there, whether it's someone like By Terry or someone like Cosas or somebody, there are lots of them out there that have coloured that are specific for you. So I always have a translucent one in my kit. I've got a small size here, but I do have the big one if I'm going to be doing a lot from Laura Mercier.

45:34And then now they have blurring qualities. They have a honey, they have a deep, they have a this, they have a that. And that is just to shade much, just do it quicker and more even. so you can have it and some of the I just pick and you don't need a huge big one like a professional so I think these travel sizes are fantastic to have because you don't go through that many you really won't yeah if I take a long time to go through my big one yeah you need this size so is that that's my thing I'm even I'm a pale person but I find that a lot of translucent powders don't look, it looks like it's going to give you a whitish cast that's going to dull your makeup.

46:19It shouldn't. It shouldn't. So there we need a recommendation. What's a good one? It shouldn't. And so I love that one. The glow one or the regular? The regular one. And I use it very light handed and I just use it where it's needed. I don't put it on the cheeks here because I love that glow. I can see it on you. I can see it on you too. Just You know, a teeny hint. You don't need it there. Nobody needs it there. Nobody needs it there. Nobody needs it there. Right. There in a bit of the chin. Right. And then leave everything else unless, oh my God, I'm going to be doing a big concert, Beyonce style.

46:56Then I would do a light dusting all over and put stuff on and go over the edges again. I feel like, you know, heritage beauty products very well because you've been working in the industry for 40 over 40 years now and I'm still working. I'm not retired yet. Yes. I was just going to ask if there were a few products that you would say have stood the test of time because there have been so many innovations. Like you were talking about innovations that you had from 20 years back and things are constantly evolving. You know, you still see some products on the market like Guerlain meteorites. Like I always think about those little pearly balls, which seem to have the color correcting.

47:42But to be honest, I've never understood that product because you swirl it and they're all coming off at once. I've never used it because I don't know. I don't understand it. Is it a translucent powder? I have to say, it's not something I would use in my professional kit per se. Okay. It comes in a beautiful box. It's so stunning. Going back to that dressing table. It looks like Hollywood, you know, it was a puff. It didn't have a brush. It would be a puff and you'd go, you know, you'd puff it away. Marilyn Monroe style. It's like that. And yes, it has different colored balls that were meant to correct.

48:19Right, color correct. A bit of that. But it also had a bit of sheen in it so I couldn't control it. Right. So I think it was an indulgent, lovely dressing table. And the smell was a divine, it was a beautiful smell. Right. You know, like. Unmistakable. So it's more of that. Maybe put it on your chest, everyone. Yeah, dust it on your shoulders. Dust it on your chest. Yeah, but are there a couple of products that you would say legitimately are undupable and that have stood the test of time? There's some things like the fact that you've got a translucent powder. So they take the same ethos, you know, the thought, and then they've made it a better formula.

49:03So a translucent powder like that, yes, you will find it in every artist bag. It's how they use it, but they will have that because it's a fine tuning tool. It helps us in a quick blend, smooth out, overuse of something, whatever. It just is. I love something like Willita's Skin Food. I love the smell of it and people go back again and again for that comfort and you can't go wrong with that. They just went back to an aluminum tube, which I called it. Yes. Two years ago when they started, when they took it out of the aluminum tube and they put it in a plastic tube. I was like, what are you doing?

49:41That is a part of the lore, essential part of the lore. Well, but what's inside there, that works. Yeah, the skin food. Then you've got something like Armani's Luminous Silk Foundation. Silk. We talk about it almost every week on the show, don't we? Yeah, pretty much. I'm wearing it right now. Because it's a medium coverage. You can go back to it and you can't do wrong. And people are always trying to dupe it. Like there's so many that are trying to dupe it always. But they won't. It was made so that it was available to look fantastic in any light. So it was ostensibly for you, you're in the studio.

50:23But then those photographers would go on location. But that location might be a cold, could be skiing somewhere. Or it could be some beach and some baths that had to look. Oh, yeah, these are mommy girls. They're jet-setting everywhere. Black and white photography, color photography. You know, so it was all of that before we even get to having now where it's your phone or it's a selfie. So it was that allowing us to know that if you've got that color right, it would look good in all kinds of different lights. So it's hard to beat that one. Yeah. People go back. I go back. Even Pat McGrath, I could tell with her foundation, she was trying to dupe that.

51:03And it's good, but they're both$90 in Canada. I'm like, I'm just using the original. Like, it's not better. No. Right? No, exactly. So that is, you've asked for a few of those and those exist. Okay, good to know. We can't let you go without asking about lips, the best way to prime and set. One of the first things is, again, it takes respect to how we started this podcast is the prep. So if you have dry peeling lips, it's not going to be good. So at that time, either use a lip scrub or a thick layer of anything. Put it on, leave it for a bit and then get a face flannel with this warm water and just scuff it off.

51:47Just take the cells off as much as you can. So as soon as you have the smoothest lip, everything else you're going to put on, whether it's going to be three tons of gloss or whether it's a more elaborate lip color choice will go on smoother. Right. Then if you put a balm... So you're doing this the night before or during the morning of? I do that night before so that you've got a double chance of it actually sinking in and doing, you know, we've had some lovely... Get your Laneige Lip Mask. I think I saw that in your kit somewhere. I do. I love that. Yeah, it's really good. Sometimes I use it just at the beginning of my prep for, It doesn't matter what I'm going to do.

52:24Maybe no color or full on color, but that mask seems to work. It doesn't need eight hours sleep. It just works. That's true. And I leave it on thickly. And I said, look, I'm just going to do that. And then I'm going to wipe it off. Yeah. Because if it's too greasy. Yeah. It's not going to last. Yeah. And then I think unless you're very, very thin lipped. I like putting the product, a lip product on first and then going over the edges with a pencil. Oh, interesting. The brailing one. So you do a lipstick before lip liner? I apply with a lip brush because I think it gives you, a bullet is the way our grandmothers and how it looks so great.

53:05The bullet looks great. And it does deposit a lot of color and you can do it. But a brush gives you that precision and it doesn't have to be fully defined. You can buff it away. So that gives you control and you can edge and you can, if it's not smooth and even, you can go a bit over here, go a bit over there, up one layer. Then I would take a tissue and separate it into the thinnest ply. Usually they're three-tiered. So you take it, not the thick one, just a thin layer, put it over your lip blot. You can put a bit of powder through that as a mesh. You've seen that before where they've got the color and you hold it, a fine layer, and reapply color.

53:48That will give you double layers. It will make the color stronger and long gloss. Then I go with a pencil to just fill in and define the edges so that it doesn't spread. It gives you the line and doesn't bleed. Or you get a product beforehand to do that. You can get some clear ones, but sometimes they work, but they're also a bit drying. You know, they're like a lip putty, so they kind of do jam and jar a little bit. But if the trade-off is for you to decide, do I want the stain on long or will I bear a little bit of, not discomfort like lip coat used to be. Oh, my God, that was a, sorry, lip coat.

54:36Wait, what's lip coat, the peel-off one? No, not the peel-off one. It was like a liquid one you painted. It was vile. So it was really. Did I miss that one? What was the brand? I feel like it's just like from, I want to say like the 80s. I think it was. Yeah, it was. But I think it did exist in America, you know, in North America. Okay. I need to. It was not very nice. Lip coat. But just take your time and do little layers. And if it's a lip gloss one, you can now do it almost with your eyes shut. Yeah. it's it gives you comfort so just be prepared that okay i'm gonna be there but every so often i can just put them it's done got it love that ruby tell us what's next from you your brand and everybody that's why maybe you're listening but not watching all ruby's products really serve a purpose and they're really all about like effortless application like you talked about that mascara and brow duo yes yes it's like dual ended but it's like very different the brush is teeny tiny very teeny tiny they're micro spiles i love how tiny the brush is so yeah let's see if you see the the eyebrow one is thin like that and the mascara is equally thin what was your idea behind this tell me well when i a lot of beauty shoots it was they come very close, can't have it all cloggy and you don't have much time and they don't want to retouch.

56:10I used to use these tooth. Yeah, the little tiny flossers. So I would put in mascara. Is it a flosser? I can't really see. Yeah, it's like a flosser in between your teeth into dental. Oh, I see. Yeah. So I'd use that to put my mascara of choice and then I'd apply it. Okay. So you could get right in the corners. you could do the lower lashes, you could go above, beyond, under, whatever. So that's inspiration. Then when it comes to formula, I said, I want a thin brush. I think there are some wonderful brands out there with tons of thousands of variations of lengthening, thickening, this one, curling, lifting, whatever.

56:53I just wanted one that defined and wouldn't clog, but gave you, brought out your eyes. just like so it was from that yeah a combination of that and so it's a dual ended everyone yes and the and so the other one's for your brows yeah brow and the right side is for your brows and you're using that to shape set it sets as well yes it will set it and that's what it's for it will you brush it up or you call it you apply your brow product of choice that could be a pencil that could be a powder that could be a pomade it could be a filling whatever it is and then you use that either on its own yeah or you use it to keep it in you know after the use of your brow product yeah and this is genius especially if you have maybe thinner brows because even something like a boy brow that I've used it's small it's micro but yours is like mini micro there's a there's a kind of a pointed tip on it too and it's got that bit of a point at the end because the because a boy brow is all one size.

57:57So for somebody who has challenging brows, yours are great, yours are great too. It would be nice, but you should see that that's the thing. And the thing with brow products is also I didn't like something that felt really crunchy. Yeah, and gluey. I didn't want it to dry and have like eyebrow dandruff. I didn't want that. So I want something that would make it last, but you can shape and angle it little here and there. It's a very unique product. Thank you. It's like minimalist beauty and very effortless. You've done all the work, right? You knew what worked and you put it into this product. Exactly.

58:35And my ethos on cosmetics is like, make it similar to how you do your wardrobe. Everyone, even if you have the most favorite item of clothing, you don't religiously wear it every single day. you don't you have to launder it you have to think of the occasion you have to think of the season is it appropriate is it not so think of cosmetics in that same way that you have some essentials that while you're experimenting and having fun with other things but you go back to it and they they hold a place in your wardrobe and some you can build on top of it or remove and that's how I think as I'm gradually introducing something it's not just for the sake of it.

59:29And there are so many lovely brands out there and I really do take my hat off to them. So I always have said that Ruby Hammond, the brand, as a makeup artist and a jobbing one and I carry things in my kit, I want this brand to be as well as, not instead of. So I don't have items that other brands successfully provide and I'm happy to continue using theirs with pleasure and joy and add mine to it. And I hope they give me the same grace. Yeah, I love that. We really appreciate your time today. Thank you. Love meeting you. Thank you. And thank you for sharing all of your amazing tips from your decades long, super impressive career as a makeup artist.

1:00:10So we know our audience will be loving all of these tips. Thank you. Thank you so much for joining us. Thank you. Thank you for having me.

1:00:20Thanks for listening. You can find details on every product mentioned in today's episode, along with our exclusive promo codes on our blog at breakingbeautypodcast.com. While you're there, be sure to sign up for our newsletter. Every episode will be delivered directly to your inbox so you won't miss a single thing. And get social with us. Let us know what you think of the episode. You can follow us on Instagram at breakingbeautypodcast. and did you know we also have a private facebook group just search breaking beauty podcast chat room you can even leave us a voicemail at any time with questions or feedback at 1-844-227-0302 and don't forget to subscribe to us wherever you get your podcast fix spotify stitcher google podcasts and apple podcasts where you can show us some love by writing a review see you next wednesday

1:01:23Please note that this episode may contain paid endorsements and advertisements for products and services. Individuals on the show may have a direct or indirect financial interest in products or services referred to in this episode.