The *New* Rules of Skin Brightening, Laser “Stacking” and Why Everyone is Freaking Out Over Xerf with Dermatologist Dr. Tia Paul

3 Jun 2026 · 1 h · 28 chapters

Ask about this episode

Ask anything about it. ChatGPT or Claude reads this page and answers with the times it was said.

Connect VO and ask about every podcast you hear, including the moments you saved. Add to ChatGPT · Add to Claude

In short

Dr. Tia Paul explains why Fitzpatrick skin typing is outdated, how to build a personalized “skin brightening” plan, and what to know about laser “stacking” and trending tightening tech ZERF (and other lasers). She argues skincare should be targeted and gradual, not “burning = working,” and that results usually require series + maintenance.

Guest

Dr. Tia Paul, Harvard/MIT-trained board-certified dermatologist. Runs Balanced Skin Dermatology and Aesthetics in Newport Beach, CA. Treats acne, hyperpigmentation, eczema, psoriasis, skin cancer; also does Botox, chemical peels, microneedling, and pediatric dermatology. Has volunteered in Haiti, Kenya, Canada, and the U.S., with a focus on skin of color. Advisor to 40+ global skincare brands; social media educator with 400k+ followers. Mentioned collaboration: Lion Pose with Mindy Kaling.

Key claims

Fitzpatrick is about UV/light response, not just skin color; categories 5–6 are too broad. “Less is better” and burning indicates barrier irritation. Hydroquinone works but must be limited; misuse can cause ochronosis. Lasers are not one thing—ablative vs non-ablative matter; ask about pulse duration and endpoints. ZERF is safer/minimal downtime but not guaranteed; best for preventative tightening and requires time (4–6 months).

Notable examples

PicoShore Pro picosecond laser for pigmentation; CO2/erbium cause more downtime and higher complication risk (especially if misused). ZERF half-face testing with photos; instantaneous lift fades in days, then collagen-driven improvement returns over months.

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

Tap a time to open that second in VO

Meet Dr. Tia Paul

0:45 to 3:00

Introduction of Dr. Tia Paul, her expertise, and practice.

“celebrity hairstylists, pretty much a little bit of everything.”

Rethinking the Fitzpatrick Scale

3:00 to 5:13

Dr. Paul discusses the limitations of the Fitzpatrick scale in dermatology.

“Paul, when it comes to your training, you did a joint MD, medical doctor, through Harvard and MIT.”

Skincare Research Bias

5:13 to 7:44

Insights on skincare research biases towards lighter skin tones.

“So most people think the Fitzpatrick scale is the scale from like one through six, but most people think it's based on your skin color.”

Outdated Skincare Rules

7:44 to 11:46

Dr. Paul challenges outdated skincare practices and emphasizes targeted solutions.

“Well, I definitely think it should be beyond just six numbers.”

Skincare for Celebrities

11:46 to 12:23

Discussion on celebrity skincare routines and the blend of products and procedures.

“And it's a good way, I think, to think about your budget as well.”

Skincare for Celebrities

13:07 to 14:21

Discussion on celebrity skincare routines and the blend of products and procedures.

“i just went to quince's website and when you punch in the word linen you can search it up and find 1 ,269 items that are linen that's incredible that's because it includes women's wear men's wear and also household wear.”

Skincare for Celebrities

14:31 to 14:42

Discussion on celebrity skincare routines and the blend of products and procedures.

“Hi, I'm Moshe Kasher and I would like you to meet my thick ass thang.”

Hyperpigmentation and Attractiveness

15:18 to 18:08

Discussion on the impact of skin tone on perceived attractiveness and the role of pigmentation treatment.

“So actually, if you're speaking to me, I will 100 % say yes to that because I am somebody who focuses my specialty is treating hyperpigmentation.”

The Power of Laser Treatments

18:08 to 21:01

Exploration of laser technologies for skin treatment and their effectiveness.

“I think I did some sort of like touch ups, a couple of them in the fall.”

Skincare Maintenance and Treatment

21:01 to 23:26

The importance of a holistic approach to skincare, combining treatments with a proper routine.

“Especially nowadays, you're coming up with such advanced technology, like picosecond lasers.”
Show all 28 chapters

Hydroquinone and Alternatives

23:26 to 24:35

Discussion on the use of hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation and available alternatives.

“So that's where these other products that have skincare brighteners in them do come in handy.”

Hydroquinone and Alternatives

26:23 to 28:24

Discussion on the use of hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation and available alternatives.

“Okay, I'm going to tell you why OneSkin really stands out as a skincare company.”

Understanding Laser Treatments

28:24 to 29:55

Learn about the different types of lasers and their uses in skincare.

“We're just going to pretend And we're starting from zero and that we know nothing.”

Ablative vs Non-Ablative Lasers

29:55 to 33:11

Discover the differences between ablative and non-ablative lasers and their implications.

“I've talked to some people who have said, you know, are lasers dangerous, though, in the sense like how many times can you hit your skin with forcing it to regenerate itself or like taking off a layer?”

Risks and Considerations of Laser Use

33:11 to 35:10

Explore the risks associated with laser treatments and how to choose wisely.

“I feel like it would be maybe for more extreme cases, like people who have really severe acne scarring.”

Morpheus 8 and RF Microneedling

35:10 to 36:59

Understand the Morpheus 8 technology and its role in skin tightening.

“I can't remember who it was now who was on the mic in here And they were saying, they're like, I don't know what people are having done out there.”

The Rise of Zerf Technology

36:59 to 40:04

Learn about the new Zerf treatment and its advantages for skin tightening.

“It's used for overall tightening of the skin.”

Patient Experiences with Zerf

40:04 to 42:05

Hear about the results and experiences patients have with Zerf treatments.

“So when I sit down with any patient talking to them about ZERP, I keep telling them, this is not one of those technology where you get guaranteed results.”

The Power of Picosecond Laser Technology

42:05 to 44:25

Learn about the effectiveness and cost considerations of picosecond laser treatments.

“And so many people commented like, I'm in, I'm in.”

Lasers and Skin of Color: Myths Debunked

44:25 to 47:03

Discover the truths about using lasers on darker skin tones and the importance of expertise.

“I want to get back into something that is your specialty, which is doing lasers on people or skin of color.”

Lasers and Skin of Color: Myths Debunked

47:12 to 48:31

Discover the truths about using lasers on darker skin tones and the importance of expertise.

“not being able to recover you need to know about qualia magnesium plus because magnesium in general is something a lot of us lack.”

Lasers and Skin of Color: Myths Debunked

48:35 to 48:47

Discover the truths about using lasers on darker skin tones and the importance of expertise.

“Use the code beauty for an additional 15 % off your order.”

Understanding Laser Stacking Techniques

48:47 to 53:51

Explore the concept of laser stacking for optimal skin treatment outcomes.

“I was actually having a conversation about that earlier today.”

At-Home Laser Devices: Worth It?

53:51 to 56:01

Evaluate the effectiveness of at-home laser devices versus in-office treatments.

“I think it's gotten too much celebrity hype.”

Advanced Laser Treatments with Dr. Tia Paul

56:01 to 58:16

Learn about the PicoSure Pro laser and its applications in skincare.

“but the PicoSure Pro is like the most advanced picosecond lasers they have right now.”

Blue Sunil: A New Concept in Wellness and Aesthetics

58:16 to 58:28

Discover the innovative combination of wellness and aesthetics at Blue Sunil.

“Tia Paul, D-R-Tia Paul on both Instagram and TikTok, as well as my practice is balanced skin dermatology and aesthetics in Newport Beach.”

Closing Remarks and Social Media Links

58:39 to 1:00:18

Find out how to connect with Dr. Tia Paul and the podcast.

“While you're there, be sure to sign up for our newsletter.”

Closing Remarks and Social Media Links

1:00:21 to 1:00:36

Find out how to connect with Dr. Tia Paul and the podcast.

“Do you ever think about switching insurance companies to see if you could save some cash?”
Hear the part that matters, and keep it.Open this episode in VO. Double tap your headphones to save a moment as you listen.
Get VO free

Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00The following podcast is a Dear Media production.

0:08Welcome to Breaking Beauty, the podcast all about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty. We're your hosts, Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins.

0:21Hello, everyone, and welcome back to another episode of Breaking Beauty podcast, the podcast all about the breakthrough people, products, and moments in beauty. I'm one of your co-hosts, Jill Dunn. And I'm Carlene Higgins. And every single week we are in your feed on Wednesdays talking about whether it's damn good products that have crossed our desks lately, or we interview really the top experts in dermatology, estheticians, makeup artists, celebrity hairstylists, pretty much a little bit of everything. Yeah, and we're two longtime magazine beauty editors turned beauty podcasters. So we're just like nerding out in the beauty world and we get to have amazing conversations.

1:03And in our back catalog, you'll find guests like estheticians like Caroline Hirons, Dr. Shereen Idris. We have more than 450 episodes at this point. So just pick your person, tune in, and you can catch us on YouTube as well. And this week, we are very honored to have an esteemed dermatologist joining us. It's board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Tia Paul. Welcome to the podcast. Thank you. Thank you for having me. So Dr. Paul is a Harvard and MIT-trained board-certified dermatologist, a sought-after media skincare expert, and a trusted advisor to over 40 global skincare brands. We're talking about the Giants, the CeraVease, the Doves, the Neutrogenas, and the L 'Oreales of the world.

1:46Not to mention Lion Pose, which I know she's collaborated with Mindy Kaling on developing those products. So, so cool. Dr. Paul, she also runs Balanced Skin Dermatology and Aesthetics in Newport Beach, California. And she treats everything from acne, hyperpigmentation, eczema, psoriasis, skin cancer. She also does a robust cosmetic practice. So Botox, chemical peels, microneedling. And she's also a pediatric dermatologist. So she's working with kids as well. Yes. And also a good human. Dr. Paul has volunteered across Haiti, Kenya, Canada, and the U.S. with a particular specialty in caring for patients with skin of color.

2:26And she has more than 400 ,000 followers across social media where she breaks down derm science and social media trends on the daily. So we're going to be picking her brain today. So in this week's episode, Dr. Paul, she's sharing why she thinks the Fitzpatrick scale, which we've talked a lot about on this podcast, why she thinks it's a little outdated. We're going to talk about laser stacking habits, the new rules for skin brightening in 2026, how to find your skincare game plan, lots of ground to cover. So let's do this. Dr. Paul, thank you for being here. I'm so excited. This is great. Dr. Paul, when it comes to your training, you did a joint MD, medical doctor, through Harvard and MIT.

3:10So what did MIT in particular have to do with getting your MD training? I've never heard of this before.

3:17Dr. Tia Paul:Yes. So there is a program called the HSD, Health Science and Technology Program, which is a combined program between Harvard and MIT. So essentially the first two years you take classes, not just at Harvard Medical School, but also at MIT. In fact, I think most of the majority of the classes were at MIT. and the reason I liked it so much because MIT as you know is very engineering heavy and although back then I was like why am I learning all this stuff is this ever going to be practical but that's how I learned how to like build technology not just like know science or understand science but also build stuff and that has translated even to my practice today because when I do a lot of lasers for example but I don't think I ever follow the protocols that are just from the companies I come up with my own protocol based on how I know things work and I guess that mindset started from understanding the basics and understanding the physics behind lasers.

4:04Dr. Tia Paul:I'm just going to say, that's a big flex. It would take quite a bit of time for probably a technician or somebody who doesn't have that mindset to kind of learn how to work the machine beyond just the guidelines and protocols that you've been given. I also train a lot of people and sometimes they ask, what are the numbers? What are the settings? I mean, the settings don't mean much. Yeah, you should have an understanding of what the baseline setting should be like. But that's not how you treat every individual. My laser settings for you is going to be very different from you because it's going to depend on like the endpoint, the outcomes.

4:37Dr. Tia Paul:So it's not just about numbers, but it's truly understanding what does pulse duration even mean? How does it even apply? We need to go back straight away to the Fitzpatrick scale because we are nine years in at this point. We've interviewed over 400 guests and quite a few dermatologists. And they always do reference, and estheticians, the Fitzpatrick scale as, you know, this is like Bible. And maybe you could explain what that is, that, you know, in lay person's terms. And the fact that you kind of question that, or you think that it might be outdated, you could explain that as well. Sure. So most people think the Fitzpatrick scale is the scale from like one through six, but most people think it's based on your skin color.

5:22Dr. Tia Paul:But that's not the case. The Fitzpatrick scale is based on how your skin responds to light, UV light. Does it tan? Does it burn easily? Those are the main things. But, you know, if somebody walks by and if I had to take a guess, I'm probably going to say, oh, the Fitzpatrick scale is so-and-so based on their skin color. But that's entirely wrong. The true Fitzpatrick scale is like you could have like an olive individual who easily gets burned. I mean, that's a completely different scale than just looking at their skin color. And also the other problem I have with the scale is it's only a number from one through six.

5:55Dr. Tia Paul:And the first four of them are kind of geared towards lighter skin. And then only five and six is for darker skin. But you can't categorize all of darker skin under category five and six. It's just like a crazy broad generalization. Yeah. This is where we see the skincare bias probably. Yeah. In the original formation of the Fitzpatrick scale, which was 1975, right? Exactly. And even in today's day and age, because I work with a lot of skincare companies, like in the early stages with product development, sometimes, you know, believe it or not, most of the testing that's done is on lighter skin.

6:28Dr. Tia Paul:Most people are, because why? The risk of complication on lighter skin is much lighter. So when you're coming up with a new product, yeah, you care about efficacy, but you also care about safety. Which population is going to be the safest? You know, mostly lighter skin because the risk of complications are lower. So a lot of folks with darker skin, their skin type has not even been studied or most of the skincare companies, they don't do studies on darker skin. And when the product hits the market, you can then generalize it to all skin tones. So they want to have these more favorable results.

6:55So they're kind of going the safety route. But that could definitely backfire. Or the safer route. Yeah. Or the safer route.

7:01Dr. Tia Paul:Or it's easier to recruit patients with lighter skin. And again, depends, right? Like if it's the L 'Oreal's and the La Roche-Posay's, they have crazy budget, right? So that's like a real large scale studies. Whereas if you're a smaller brand, you know, you probably have a sample size of 20 patients. I mean, that's very different from a sample size of 100 patients or 200 patients. So there is a lot that goes on behind the scenes in this world of skincare formulation that the layperson doesn't understand or doesn't see. What they see are the bright packaging and which celebrity is talking about the product.

7:33Dr. Tia Paul:But the real science comes down to not just how good a product is, not just the efficacy of the product, but how safe is it on all different skin tone. Is there any update that you think in your mind would be better than the Fitzpatrick scale? Like, can we get the Dr. Tia Paul scale going? Hopefully, yes. I feel like you could take this on. I know, right? I honestly do. My next project. Yeah. Well, I definitely think it should be beyond just six numbers. It should be, you know, broader, I don't know, 10 or whatever. And it should incorporate not just like the color of the skin, but also, yeah, things like how prone are you to inflammation?

8:08Dr. Tia Paul:Like how prone are you to pigmentation? Underlying risk factors, like somebody who has underlying rosacea or underlying melasma, Their skin is going to react very differently to skincare products or lasers. It's just not about the skin color or the reaction to sunlight. It's beyond that, you know. Interesting. Fascinating. I feel like this is a job for AI somehow, you know. And they are getting there. Yeah. Everything is. Yeah. But the upshot is what you're saying is like a somebody with a mid to darker skin tone can burn more easily than somebody with pale skin. 100 percent. Right. So that's a bit of myth busting there, right?

8:47Yeah, turning that on its head for sure. What are some other outdated skincare rules that you're turning on its head right now?

8:54Dr. Tia Paul:I mean, I'm still not a big fan of like multiple step skincare routine. Like in my mind, skincare should be targeted. Every different individual, they respond differently to skincare products. So you need to figure out what's wrong with your skin or maybe what can be improved upon. And then pick products according to that. I think this whole concept of, oh, if it's burning my skin, it must be working. It's so wrong. If it's burning your skin, it is irritating your skin barrier. You got to back off. I mean, there are so many ones that are out there. But I always tell my patients less is better.

9:24Dr. Tia Paul:Even when it comes to skin care, you know, do target it. And also when it comes to procedure, my favorite line in clinic is don't shock your skin or your credit card. Just go slow and respond to what your skin is asking. And that varies. Even my own skin behaves differently in the summer months versus in the winter months. Or even with all the hormonal changes, our skin constantly keeps changing. You know, the skincare I used in my 20s is different from the skincare I used in my 30s. So you have to listen to your skin the way you listen to your health. You talk a lot on your social media about helping patients find their skincare game plan because it is so overwhelming out there.

9:59There's so many products. You had like a picture of a pyramid, kind of. So for people who haven't seen it, what were you? Can you walk us through that idea?

10:06Dr. Tia Paul:Yes. So I decided to come up with that skincare thing using my recommendations because what comes down is what is it that you need to do on a daily basis? The basics are a good cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen. And that's the base of the pyramid. That's the base of the pyramid. That's the skincare. Just the way you brush your teeth every day, you got to put your sunscreen on and then you can add one or two serums. But serum is a very broad term. It means you need to find a product or an active ingredient that might be targeted towards your skin problem. So if I have hyperpigmentation, maybe I'm going to go with like a vitamin C or an azelaic acid.

10:39Dr. Tia Paul:If I am looking for rosacea, I'm going to go with like niacinamide. So the serum should be targeted towards like whatever your skin is asking for. And that is kind of like the bottom of the pyramid, your daily skincare. Then a step above that is if you want to start doing some sort of a procedure, if you want to start doing facials like a gentle hydrafacial. But that's not, again, something you do once in six months. You're doing a hydrafacial roughly once every month or every six weeks or so. Same thing with mild chemical peels. I do a lot of gentle superficial salicylic acid chemical peels in my office for like acne, pigmentation, or even gentle exfoliation of the skin.

11:12Dr. Tia Paul:Again, most people are coming in four to six weeks to do that on a long-term basis. Then you have things such as neurotoxins like Botox or you have microneedling, which you're doing more in a once every three month basis. There are some lasers you can do once every three month basis. Then you have more aggressive lasers, which you're probably doing once every six month basis or tightening devices. Right now, ZERF is trending all over. Yes. But you're doing those on a more so less frequent basis. But it's about how you incorporate this whole routine in your day to day life. That's how you get to the good, healthy, overall healthy skin.

11:43Dr. Tia Paul:Yeah. Yeah, for sure. I agree with that. And it's a good way, I think, to think about your budget as well. Yeah, exactly. Exactly. Because you can just use your skin on your credit card. Go slow. Start with the basic. Get a good sunscreen. Get a good moisturizer and cleanser. Then slowly build it. Yeah. And just get drugstore options or Amazon, whatever. But it truly is like that pyramid is the model for celebrities. You know, like they are not just using all of these products at the bottom. They've got this cycle. They have this game plan. And it's the maintenance of all of those things that gives them this hole, this beautiful skin hole.

12:23Dr. Tia Paul:That's a very good point you bring up because I take care of a lot of celebrities and a lot of influencers. I can tell you these people are not relying just on skincare. People are doing a lot of different procedures and they do it regularly. That's how you get that healthy glow in the skin. Don't get me wrong. Skincare is very, very important. But it's not skincare alone that gives you that super amazing glass glowy skin. Yeah, absolutely agree.

13:02today's episode is brought to you in part by quince all right the warmer weather is finally here and i'm looking to just replace everything in my wardrobe with linen i don't know about you i just went to quince's website and when you punch in the word linen you can search it up and find 1 ,269 items that are linen that's incredible that's because it includes women's wear men's wear and also household wear. Let's not forget those linen sheets that you can get at Quince also. I love that Quince has these high quality essentials that are just so affordable, breathable linen, soft organic cotton, washable silk, and they just don't have that luxury markup.

13:45Quince has beautiful everyday pieces like 100 % European linen pants, dresses and tops with styles starting at just$32. And of course, Quince is not fast fashion, even though everything is priced 50 to 80 % less than similar brands. Quince works directly with ethical factories and cuts out the middleman. So you're paying for quality, not for brand markup. And of course, like I said, it's beyond clothing. Quince has elevated essentials for home, kitchen, bedding, and beyond as well. If you want to try it for yourself, you can elevate your summer wardrobe, Go to quince.com slash breaking beauty for free shipping on your order and 365 day returns now available in Canada too.

14:30That's q-u-i-n-c-e dot com slash breaking beauty for free shipping and 365 day returns. Quince.com slash breaking beauty. Hi, I'm Moshe Kasher and I would like you to meet my thick ass thang. Uh, I guess that's me. I'm Natasha Leggero. We are comedians and we're married and we do a relationship and life advice show called the Endless Honeymoon Podcast. And here's the exciting part. We want to advise you. We're a no judgment zone. So anything you want to ask about, it's all good. Yes. Send us your questions to Endless Honeymoon Pod at Gmail and tune in to the Endless Honeymoon Podcast on Apple, Spotify, YouTube or wherever you like to listen.

15:18as beauty editors i remember way back we go to so many press events where we're introduced to the latest studies from dermatologists such as yourself and i remember way back olay presented us with a study from like 2007 with the american academy of dermatology and at that time it indicated that hyperpigmentation or just an uneven skin tone in general was the number one first thing that you see that indicates attractiveness overall and also age, the bigger thing, age. Does that hold up? What do you think?

15:57Dr. Tia Paul:So actually, if you're speaking to me, I will 100 % say yes to that because I am somebody who focuses my specialty is treating hyperpigmentation. Yeah. So when I have a patient come into the clinic for something completely unrelated, it could be like a mole or it could be like a rash. Somehow or the other, they probably look at my own skin or the before and after is going on on the screen. And when they see these big transformation of all these brown spots or uneven skin automatically in people's mind, that's like, wow, now that skin became like healthy, glowy. Yeah. So pigmentation, I do think kind of like ranks higher than fine lines or pores or these textural changes.

16:36Dr. Tia Paul:And so one of the lasers I'm pretty well known for is this PicoSecond laser technology called PicoShore Pro. And the prime thing it targets is pigmentation. Literally every patient becomes a candidate for it because all of us, if we are healthy enough and we get older, we're going to get some level of pigmentation, uneven skin tones. But as we treat that skin unevenness, people fall in love with their skin. They actually look at themselves very differently, which is a very interesting phenomenon. I'll have patients come in in the beginning. They're like, oh, I don't like the way my face is droopy.

17:04Dr. Tia Paul:Oh, I don't like the way my wrinkles are all over. But the second they clear up their pigmentation, they look at their skin very differently. Transformative, truly. Because in that study, because I was reading it again, what was also interesting is they only zoomed in on the cheek. They didn't show your eyes. They didn't show you smiling. They showed nothing except just the skin. So there was no other towel in terms of. Right. Yeah. Like. Segging or hair. Or like somebody had a pretty eye color or whatever, nice hair or whatever. Yeah. It was just like strictly about like two square inches of your skin.

17:35Yeah. Yeah. And I think you're exactly right. People may not even be tuned into that. No. About themselves. They're focusing on like lines or whatever. Yeah. Yeah. They're hyper focusing on these other things. I can say from personal experience, I didn't have like a regular laser schedule through the whole time I've been a beauty editor and I'm 50 now. I'd have the odd one done here or there, but it was because it was being gifted gratis and it was only one time. So really, as you talked about, you're not going to see results from one time. It was only really probably last year that I went and had a proper set of like five or six laser treatments I had in the spring.

18:18I think I did some sort of like touch ups, a couple of them in the fall. And then maybe the next year I did one. So this was the first proper like block. And I am so happy with my skin in comparison to before. I really like I have no desire to get Botox. I don't even see a need for it. And that's what I wanted to ask you. Like, does it help with fine lines as well as pigmentation? Because I swear my pictures, I mean, I also had a blepharoplasty. Fair. But I'm saying like the crow's meat and stuff. Like I think there's a massive improvement. Yeah. And I do like pigmentation, if you had asked me, would not have been one of my like top three concerns.

19:00But now that I see the difference, I do like I really I'm just really happy with my skin. Yeah. Yeah. And so, yeah. Does it help with fine lines? Absolutely.

19:11Dr. Tia Paul:And it's a more natural way of going about it. That is why you have to be patient about it. So I do very I don't do any fillers on myself or any of my patients. So I am very laser heavy. Yes. You know, I think you can get such good outcomes with laser as long as you understand what you're doing. So on my face, yes. you know if you look at my skin closely like my pores my fine lines have improved dramatically okay you guys if you're not watching on youtube you don't have a single pore on your face you really you really have glass skin you do no like truly it looks like you have a filter on but i know you don't because you're sitting right here believe it or not i don't have makeup on i just have tinted sunscreen and under eye under ice concealer i'm making an appointment right after this you guys it's like real glass skin yeah i have done 10 pico short treatment over the last three years.

19:53Dr. Tia Paul:So I'm very good about making sure I'm doing it from time to time. I tell my husband, I bought the damn machine for myself more than anybody else. But the point is, and then I do very little neurotoxic on myself, maybe like two times a year or so. As you can see, I have movement when I'm talking. I like to be natural and expressive and not look like, you know, it's like, how can you make yourself look like, yes, you're aging gracefully. But the goal is not to look 20 when you're in your 40s. The goal is to look very good for your age. Exactly. I honestly do after this experience, if I were giving somebody advice who was just going into like what professional treatments, we used to always say Botox and bar soap.

20:32Like honestly, if you're looking at what's giving you the best bang for your buck, just don't even worry about, which we're exaggerating obviously, but it's, you will get that instant. And now I kind of feel like just save all the money you were putting toward Botox and get into lasers because I think - do both well sure but if we're talking about a budget yeah yeah yeah so again like you said this approach to aging like i i don't think the idea of obliterating all of your lines is everybody has their own take but for me i that's not what i'm after and i just think for an overall flattering look people might be surprised at how much they're happy enough with lasers that they actually don't feel like they need neurotoxins any longer.

21:20Dr. Tia Paul:Especially nowadays, you're coming up with such advanced technology, like picosecond lasers. That's one example. The technology called Zerf is another technology where there is minimal downtime, no pain involved. And, you know, just the way our phones get upgraded every year, these technologies are also getting upgraded, you know? And so now it's almost like there is no need to only do a CO2 laser. Back in the day, you didn't have that many resources. Most people did CO2 laser. Don't get me wrong. CO2 laser can be great for the right candidate. But you have all these other advanced technologies where there is no downtime.

Read the full transcript

21:50Dr. Tia Paul:So I have a ton of patients that are guys and they love this stuff. They're like, wow, I can be read only for like an hour or two and be back to work? Sure, why not? And they are seeing the improvement in the fine lines, wrinkles. Granted, it's going to take them three to six months to see the result. That's why I say go slow. I'm not telling you to do all this stuff monthly. Go slow, but enjoy the process. Yeah. I also really appreciate on your channel that the real talk about the skincare plateaus, Like people will be on like a melasma journey and they're brightening with skincare and stuff.

22:17What is the tipping point where you're like, OK, you should actually dive into a laser or something? What is the plateau, I guess?

22:26Dr. Tia Paul:Yeah. And that plateau might be different for different individuals, too, right? So skincare is very, very important. It's very, very important for prevention. It's very, very important for maintenance. It might not be as dramatic for correction. So if somebody shows you a before and after photo of like dark spots that cleared up, I doubt it's only skincare alone. Skincare is part of the whole treatment plan. But usually there are other procedures like whether it's lasers or micro kneeling or chemical peels that gives you that more dramatic wow factor difference. But even that it's not one magical treatment.

22:59Dr. Tia Paul:Even that you need a series of it. So the classic analogy I give is with going to the gym and getting a trainer. Right. It's not just if you show up to the gym two times a week with a trainer, you're expecting a six pack to show up. You still have to be good about your eating habits, about sleeping and all that. Same thing. Kind of eating clean is equal to doing your skincare routine at home. But when you're going and getting these professional treatments, you still have to do them and you have to do maintenance too. It's not just like a one-time thing. Yeah. Fantastic. So that's where these other products that have skincare brighteners in them do come in handy.

23:32And I know like hydroquinone used to be the gold standard for a lot of dermatologists. What is it now?

23:39Dr. Tia Paul:It is still hydroquinone in terms of like its prescription strength in the United States is very strictly regulated because in a lot of countries like Philippines and India, it's over the counter and misused because people use it there for lightening purposes, not necessarily brightening purposes. And then if you use it for many months, two years in a row, it can cause a paradoxical worsening of the brown spots. That's called okrinosis. So in the United States, we use it, like I only give one prescription refills from time to time, but it works really well, way better than any of the other topicals that we have.

24:06Dr. Tia Paul:But you cannot be on hydroquinone forever. You need to take breaks from it. And when you're taking breaks from it, there's a lot of other alternatives now. Now, the other problem with hydroquinone in some skin tone and skin type, it can cause irritation of the skin. So not everyone can tolerate hydroquinone. So same thing with tretinoin. I know we hear on social media and everything, everybody's raving about retinoin. Not everybody can tolerate retinoin. And then you have alternatives like Spacuchil. You have peptides. Same thing with hydroquinone. You have alternative. You have topical tranexamic acid.

24:32Dr. Tia Paul:You have azelaic acid, niacinamide. So a bunch of other alternatives too. Okay.

24:45Dove is one of our show partners this week. With wedding season and special events around the corner, I've been thinking more about those little steps in my routine that help my skin look and feel its best. And body care is such an important part of that. A product that I've been reaching for time and again, I have a few of them in my shower, is actually the Dove Serum Plus Oil Body Wash. It's really amazing to give you that radiant looking skin, especially if you're like me and your legs haven't seen the light of day in months upon months. It just gives you that confidence when you're stepping out wearing a dress or a skirt.

25:20And I really love the texture. It features an oil to foam serum powered formula that creates a luxurious cleanse designed to leave skin radiant and glowing in just one shower without any greasy residue at all. And it's got 50 percent glycerin in the formula. So it's very, very hydrating. It's co-created with dermatologists. So you get this softness, this smoothness and your skin is visibly more radiant. There's two different scents. I like the Radiance one that has jojoba and Manoy flower, smells really tropical. Carlene likes the soothing one that's got almond oil and sandalwood. So there's both, there's great options for whatever your preference is.

26:02So discover the new Dove Serum Plus Oil Body Wash at dove.com slash CA, now available on Amazon and in stores nationwide. That's www.dove.com slash CA. We'll link to this product in our show notes and on our website. Today's episode is brought to you in part by OneSkin. Okay, I'm going to tell you why OneSkin really stands out as a skincare company. It's not just the hype. The founding team are longevity researchers who set out to target visible signs of aging, wrinkles, fine lines, loss of elasticity by targeting zombie cells. We've talked about this in the past. Those are the cells that slow the aging process right down.

26:46And their research led to a proprietary peptide called OS01. It's the first ingredient said to switch off those damaged senescent cells, actually slowing skin aging directly at the source. I'm a big fan of OneSkin's body cream. If you see the before and afters, they are super impressive. it's crepey skin to smooth skin after several weeks of use it's very impressive and it uses that same os01 peptide that's in their face product so we can't forget about everything under the chin guys we've got to pay attention to that area as well and this isn't just my experience one skin's results are backed by four peer-reviewed clinical studies and over 10 000 five-star reviews.

27:35They've been recognized by Bloomberg as a leader in skin longevity. It's all really impressive and worth trying in the summer when we want our body to be glistening and smooth for our shorts and skirt season. So born from over a decade of longevity research, OneSkin's OSO1 peptide is proven to target the visible signs of aging, helping you unlock your healthiest skin now and as you age. And for a limited time, try OneSkin with 15 % off using code BREAKINGBEAUTY at oneskin.co slash BREAKINGBEAUTY. That's 15 % off oneskin.co with code BREAKINGBEAUTY. After you purchase, they'll ask where you heard about them.

28:15Please support our show and tell them that we set you.

28:23We're going to get into a whole one-on-one on lasers, everyone. We're just going to pretend And we're starting from zero and that we know nothing. Because honestly, I feel like the word laser gets misused all the time. It's just this umbrella term. It's like, what lasers are we talking about? Incredibly loosely. And like when my girlfriends say, I'm going to get a laser, half the time they're talking about laser hair removal. So how would you actually define a laser? Yeah.

28:45Dr. Tia Paul:So laser is a big, broad terminology. A laser that is treating redness, broken capillaries, or rosacea is very different from a laser that's treating pigmentation, brown spots. or a laser that's stimulating collagen is different from a laser that's done for hair removal. So it is actually pretty fancy. And I almost feel like people don't give it enough credit, maybe because people don't understand it's such a complex thing. And it's also because you hear about every dentist, every meds about having a laser. So it's very vaguely and broadly used, you know what I mean? But it is basically using light technology in a way that can be very targeted.

29:19Dr. Tia Paul:So there are specific targets in our body, such as melanin, the pigment. When you use a laser light to target that melanin, And that's how you treat pigmentation. If you target the blood vessels in our body, that's how you treat redness. If you target water, we call them the target molecule. That's how you get like collagen stimulation. And so it's very targeted. It's actually different from RF microneedling. That's a whole complete different technology as well. So, yeah, overall, just to summarize, laser light is used in a way where if you have a targeted problem, you can use the specific type of wavelength to attack that problem.

29:54I will be honest. I've talked to some people who have said, you know, are lasers dangerous, though, in the sense like how many times can you hit your skin with forcing it to regenerate itself or like taking off a layer? That's the kind of thing that I've heard where people get concerned or they're like, am I wearing down the quality of my skin over time? Can you speak to that?

30:20Dr. Tia Paul:So that's also a very good question. There are, again, like we mentioned, so many different types of lasers. The way I look at it, there's two big categories. There is ablative lasers and non-ablative lasers. Ablative lasers are CO2 and erbium lasers. Those are the one when you see on TikTok or on TV where people have crazy redness, swelling, downtime. because the way these lasers work is they literally ablate, meaning cut layers of the skin. And so they are much stronger lasers. They work for like deeper collagen remodeling. They work for acne scars. But those are the ones that can have higher risk because they are also heating up the skin too much.

30:55Dr. Tia Paul:Then there are non-ablative lasers where it's not that intense. And there's the degree, you know, there is something called fractionated versus non-fractionated. There is a lot of different types of lasers out there. and you truly, instead of just going with the brand, I mean, I know like on social media, like Morpheus 8 got very popular. Instead of just going with the brand, understand, ask your doctor or whoever is doing your laser, ask them what kind of technology is it? What is it targeting? And that's how you proceed with it. So for example, picosecond lasers, they are safe enough to do it at a much, you know, sooner frequent.

31:27Dr. Tia Paul:Like I do it on my skin once every three months and that's totally fine. So that's a non-ablative. Yeah. There's picosecond technology. Yeah, it's completely different. And then if I were to do an erbium or a CO2, I would probably only do it once a year or once every two years. Yeah. That's the one where it's a lot. It's like a week down time. You're slathered in Vaseline. That's the one where I showed you the pictures and I'm like, is this right? Yeah. Yeah. It's like you're questioning your life choices like five days in. You're like, because your skin is gone. Because it crusts over, right?

31:54Well, it depends.

31:55Dr. Tia Paul:Crusting over might lead to infection. I'm not a huge fan of CO2. And I'll say this out loud because of the potential risk. And, you know, I've seen people with darker skin get CO2 laser and crazy hyperpigmentation. They come to me with all the complications. Even on lighter skin, I have seen persistent redness after CO2. Although with any lasers, it's very user dependent. It's not which laser you're using, who is doing your laser? Do they really know what they're doing or are they just plugging in numbers? Ask them a random question. What does pulse duration mean? If they cannot answer that, just walk away.

32:25No, it's totally true. so when I see those on on tiktok or what have you it's like the crust over the skin the person looks kind of like a burn victim yeah and I will I'll ask people I'm like is this I'm like Jill is this normal is this person okay is that okay well are they okay and people can get infected you know

32:45Dr. Tia Paul:like you're literally getting rid of like top layers of the skin so it's like an open barrier so if you're not taking good care of your skin or if you're going out in the sun you can get hyperpigmentation from it. So that's what I'm saying. Rather, go slow. Do things, you know, slowly, conservatively, maybe more number of times versus doing something so aggressive. Like, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I was doing, if I were doing 10, 12 CO2s in a day, versus I do 10 to 12 picosecond lasers in a day and I sleep pretty good at night. Yeah, that's good. I feel like it would be maybe for more extreme cases, like people who have really severe acne scarring.

33:19Dr. Tia Paul:Sure, because sometimes you have to get aggressive to get good results. And also it depends like plastic surgeons, they usually are pretty aggressive because they want really good results. Whereas, you know, again, if you're going to a different place, that's not a, you know, necessarily a physician, they're going to be much more mild with their setting. Yeah. Yeah, that's true. You just mentioned Morpheus 8 there, but I just want to clarify that's not a laser, right? Right. Okay. I can break it down in simple terms. So lasers usually sort of deliver heat from the outside and radiofrequency microneedling, they use which is Morpheus 8.

33:52Dr. Tia Paul:They use microneedles to kind of like punch holes into the skin. And they use the radio frequency energy to deliver energy inside of the skin. So most of the lasers are coming from outside in, whereas the RF microneedling is more so inside out. But they're still like heating up the skin. But with RF microneedling, what you're doing is you're heating up the tissue more like deeper down. So that's why a lot of time it's used for things like tightening of the skin as opposed to superficial lines and wrinkles that most of the other resurfacing lasers target. Didn't RF microneedle, like radio frequency with microneedling get kind of a bad rap?

34:28Yep. What's the story there?

34:31Dr. Tia Paul:Again, that comes down to it's not that RF microneedling is a bad thing. It's who is using it and they really know what they're doing. So if you don't know what you're doing, you can actually heat up the tissue so much deep down, especially the fat layer where there was this concern for fat loss. but it's not because it's a bad technology it's because whoever was using it didn't probably know how to use it and that's why I keep saying this all the time lasers are it's not about plugging numbers it's about truly keeping an eye on your patient how red are they getting what are the end points so there was this whole concern about possible fat loss with RF microneeling but I think it had to do a lot with who was doing it, how they were doing it we've had a plastic surgeon I can't remember who it was now who was on the mic in here And they were saying, they're like, I don't know what people are having done out there.

35:17But when they're actually in the operating room and they get in there, they're like, the quality of the skin underneath is so different now. Like in some cases, it's like meldy, like buttery as opposed to before. And they're like, it just makes our job harder. Like, you know what I mean? What is that?

35:38Dr. Tia Paul:Yeah. Yeah. From some other technologies gone wrong or even fillers gone wrong. But again, it's not a problem of the actual filler or the actual technologies about how they're used. I think one of the problems is, you know, there's such a high demand for aesthetics, right? Yes. And anybody can do aesthetics. Anybody can open up their shop. So the problem comes that, you know, the laser companies or they are willing to sell their laser to anyone. Anyone. You could do like a one week certification and just get it. I was kind of shocked at AAD how many laser. Right. How many lasers existed? I was like, never heard of that.

36:13Never heard of that. It was wild. And they're there, of course, because that's the hub for dermatologists. And it was interesting.

36:21Dr. Tia Paul:And everybody's trying to sell. Everybody's trying to sell something or the other, right? But it almost like taking advantage of people who don't know and they're trusting the stuff maybe. And almost, yeah, it's just like a market where there is a very high demand. And to supply that demand, you're just giving these technologies to the hands of anyone. Yeah. If it's done the right way, who is a good candidate for Morpheus 8? If you're like looking in the mirror and you want to fix this or that, who's a good candidate? Yeah. So again, it comes down to even Morpheus 8 is one of those things I would be careful in darker skin, for example, because I've seen cases of hyperpigmentation.

36:58Dr. Tia Paul:But typically it's used for acne scars. It's used for overall tightening of the skin. But again, like I said, now technologies like Zerf are coming out, which is much more safer, much more minimal downtime. time. And so, I don't know, man, five years, we can sit down, we'll have a whole different conversation. That's the beauty of it. That's the beauty of it. Did you try Zerf on yourself? Oh, I love it. And I can show you guys. Look, I talk a lot about this PicoShore laser, but I don't get paid a single dollar from the company to make any of these reels. It's just completely transformed my skin.

37:28Dr. Tia Paul:And I do this in clinics so many times. Zerf is my new favorite. So I just, that device just came to the United States last year around August, and we've had it in our clinic since October. We were actually running some of the clinical trials with them, And we still do. Now we're going to come up with a body protocol. Is it a laser also? So it is also radio frequency. But what makes it really good is, first of all, it's very safe. I did one treatment on a patient this morning before coming here as well. It's very safe on all different skin tone. The only folks that you have to be a little careful about is people with melasma because this is heat based, right?

37:57Dr. Tia Paul:So anything that heats up your skin can flare up your melasma. Doesn't mean you cannot do it. You just, again, go to the right people who have experience with melasma. Second, it has no downtime and it's not painful. because the problem with some of the current tightening devices, such as All Therapy, Thermage, is they're so painful. So you're paying a lot of money. You're seeing very subtle improvement because any tightening device is subtle. It's not going to be the same as a facelift. Right. So you're paying a lot of money. You're seeing subtle results. And if it's painful, you're not going to go back and do it again.

38:25Dr. Tia Paul:Yeah, forget it. Definitely. That is why their, you know, Zurf is so promising. Now, again, you have to give it more time to see how good the long-term results are going to be too. I mean, it's looking very promising. I did two sessions, so one in November and then one in Jan. And it takes a good four to six months to start seeing a big difference. The biggest difference I saw was in my jawline. Yeah. The nasolabial folds right here. And yeah, I was somebody who would never put my hair up in a ponytail most of the time. But now almost always I have a bun or ponytail because I'm like, look at my snatch jawline.

38:57Yeah, you're the second derm that's told us they've used it on themselves because Dr. David Kim also did. He did one side and then he didn't do the other side. I'm like, OK, you're committed to the bit. And so you're my second opinion. I'm in. I'm in.

39:09Dr. Tia Paul:I do that a lot in clinics. So all my patients, when I'm doing their ZERF treatment, I do half the face. Then we go and take a set of photos and we compare. And I actually have it on my phone more than 50 before and afters where you can see the difference instantaneously. Although that instantaneous lift doesn't stay. Superficial, yeah. It goes away after a few days, but it'll come back after a few months. But that's how patients love it. And they keep wanting more because they trust the process. Yeah, that's what I was going to say is like, aside from having less downtime and pain, what's the big deal?

39:39Why is everyone freaking out about Zurf?

39:41Dr. Tia Paul:It's because none of the tightening device on the market are like super dramatic. It's not a resurfacing laser where all your brown spots can be gone. All tightening is very much subtle because you have to understand what we are trying to do is stimulate collagen kind of deeper down. The power, your ability to stimulate collagen at the age of 50 is very different from somebody who is in the age of 20. So the responses are very different. So when I sit down with any patient talking to them about ZERP, I keep telling them, this is not one of those technology where you get guaranteed results. In fact, if anybody says that, run.

40:15Dr. Tia Paul:But this is one of those things that's worth a try. Some people get more dramatic results than others because it depends on how your body responds. And again, who is doing the technology, that matters too. But also a lot of people want to do this tightening stuff as a preventative thing. because hands down, prevention is way easier than correction. Yeah. So if somebody comes to me in their 70s and they're like, I want to do ZERF, I'm going to sit down and be like, look, realistically, this is not going to make your nasal labial go away or your jawline tighten up. Maybe a facelift is going to be more dramatic.

40:45Dr. Tia Paul:But then there are people that don't want surgery, right? So everything has its own place and you just have to pick the right candidate. But people are freaking out because they're seeing more visible results with ZERF. Especially because the instantaneous one. What I understand, correct me if I'm wrong, is that it's so difficult to get your jowl snatched back. And I think that that's what the beauty is. And then over time, it's going to be better because you are getting more collagen, right? And then you just have to, so in the beginning, it's supposed to be two sessions, six to eight weeks apart.

41:12Dr. Tia Paul:And then after that, once every six months. I'll tell you, at least in my clinic, because we've been doing this since November of last year, most of my patients want to do the every six month thing because they can see some difference. I'm seeing very good results on the abdomen. Skin tightening on the abdomen. Again, you have to pick the right candidate. So not somebody with too much excess fatty tissue. It's more so somebody who's very skinny, but has that excess skin. Right. And you can crank up the... The GLP people. Exactly. Calling all GLPers. Crank up the setting. And again, we have to still establish a body protocol, which I'm working with a company on.

41:45Dr. Tia Paul:But in clinic, I've been able to see pretty good before and after. But again, you have to pick the right candidate. Yeah. So I don't tell anyone and everyone to do it. I look at their skin. I analyze them. And I'm like, I think you're a good candidate. Huh? I gotta take you to another. You're like, I've had two kids. So from my chin to my clavicle is like a 45 degree angle. Well, that I think. Where are you based again? Newport Beach. It's like an hour. We're going. Dr. Kim already sold me on that thing. And we made a clip of that episode. And so many people commented like, I'm in, I'm in. I'm in because I was literally contemplating a lower facelift.

42:21So I mean, I did it on my mother-in-law.

42:24Dr. Tia Paul:I've done it on my friends. I'm about to do it on my husband. them so I wouldn't do it if I didn't believe in it and I did it on myself two times so far and I am saying again the company's not paying me to say any of this. Thank you for the disclosure by the way. Well because the way I look at it is I believe in who I am and instead of telling the way I work with somebody is based on if I truly believe in their products. Of course yeah. So I truly believe in the picosecond laser technology. I truly believe in Zerf so far. Yeah. Again Zerf is a little bit like, you know, early stage. Yeah. I need to ask you, because I'm sure inquiring minds are wanting to know what sort of the cost, the budget you should be allocating.

43:01And you don't need to say yours specifically, but a range. And it can vary. Yes.

43:06Dr. Tia Paul:But again, if it's too good to be true, ask why is it too good to be true? Because I'll tell you behind the scenes what's going on. So typically, I think it's going to range in the two to three thousand. Preserve? Yeah. Per treatment, I would say it's around, yeah, two thousand ish. And then if you do a set of two, some places will have some sort of a deal or whatnot. Now, I've heard some places that are doing way cheaper for like a thousand or not. But what they are doing differently is instead of doing the whole face, they're only focusing on a certain area. Because Zerv has pretty high consumable cost.

43:38Dr. Tia Paul:So per treatment, the doctor's office also have to pay for the consumable handpiece. For those, sorry? For the consumable. Consumable means like tips and stuff that you use. Okay. Which obviously you're going to be using different. for like sanitary reasons. Yes. Yeah. And that, because you have to, they expire. You have to keep using new tips. I see. So if some place is only charging a thousand, it almost like doesn't make sense. Right. So what they are doing is it kind of like the whole concept of Botox, right? If a place is charging you $8 per unit, it's probably diluted or it's probably a different brand.

44:11Dr. Tia Paul:So same thing with Zerg too. Maybe they're not doing the recommended amount is 600 shots for the whole face. Maybe they're doing half of that. Yeah, exactly. So ask them some of those questions. Like if it's too good to be true, why is this place charging half the price of the other places? Yeah, it's very, very likely not happening. I want to get back into something that is your specialty, which is doing lasers on people or skin of color. Because that I feel like is not talked about enough. There's not enough experts out there and it can lead to really serious bad outcomes sometimes. So let's talk about if all skin tones can use lasers safely and walk us through that.

44:48Dr. Tia Paul:Yeah. So first of all, it's an absolute myth. If people say lasers cannot be used on darker skin, I would say come spend one day with me and I'll show you how many lasers I do on darker skin. Second of all, you have to go to a place where they have the right technology. Like I wouldn't use IPL on on darker skin. For example, you have to have the right technology and be the right expertise. Pick somebody who does this on every single day basis. If I'm only seeing darker skin patients, like five darker skin patients in my entire week, that's very different from somebody like me who is seeing 15 darker skin patients per day.

45:22Dr. Tia Paul:So pick somebody who truly knows, because it's not that complications doesn't happen. I mean, I have had a bunch of complications too, but I know how to manage complications. Because if anybody says I've never had complications, boy, you have not done enough cases. But if you need to pick somebody who knows how to manage those complications and where the complication rates are hopefully much lower. Yeah. Is there a specific question that someone can ask at a at a office to know if you're in the best hands? Yeah. Asking for before and afters on, you know, darker skin. Like, can you show me or how much experience do you have?

45:55How often do you see patients with my skin tone? Right. Right. So and what are some of the complications potentially that maybe we should touch on that? Yes. The number one thing is risk of pigmentation or hyperpigmentation.

46:07Dr. Tia Paul:So a patient with darker skin is just way much higher risk of hyperpigmentation or even worst case scenario. If you go too aggressive, they can get burns and scars from it. It's also much more unpredictable. I see why a lot of germs probably don't want to focus on skin of color is because there's much more handholding involved. Like I could treat five different darker skin patients the same day with the exact same protocol, the same setting, the same laser. And two people can have different outcomes because so much of it depends on did they go out in the sun? Like their skin, our melanin, you know, just reacts differently.

46:39Dr. Tia Paul:Like if I get a mosquito bite, I know I'm going to get brown spot for the next several months from that. So our skin just reacts differently. But again, that doesn't mean you cannot do all these procedures. Just go slow. Yeah. One big takeaway from this today's podcast, Dr. Paul said, go slow. Yeah. Love it. Got it.

47:03this episode is brought to you in part by qualia life okay my perimenopausal friends out there and people just you know lacking in sleep in general working out and feeling dead tired afterwards and not being able to recover you need to know about qualia magnesium plus because magnesium in general is something a lot of us lack. That's what I've been learning. And also magnesium differs from brand to brand. We know there's a lot of supplements out there. I'm going to tell you why Qualia Magnesium Plus is different. Qualia Magnesium Plus is the only product to combine 10 bioavailable forms of magnesium with more than 70 trace minerals that help fuel magnesium support.

47:47So it's really considered a full spectrum magnesium that helps to deliver magnesium's full potential because it really does go beyond sleep. It can help you to think sharper, recover faster, support muscle strength, steadier mood and stress response, and really help with a better energy metabolism. That's what I've noticed as I work out and take it. And again, a lot of people are lacking in it. So they don't realize that it's not just for sleep. It can help you in so many other ways as well. Experience the most trusted magnesium for purity, potency, and performance. Plus it's non-GMO, vegan, and gluten-free, making it a choice you can feel good about.

48:31Go to qualiolife.com slash beauty for 50 % off. And here's a bonus. Use the code beauty for an additional 15 % off your order. That's Q-U-A-L-I-A life.com slash beauty and use code beauty. Thanks to Qualia for sponsoring this episode. And now back to the show.

48:54Let's talk about laser stacking.

48:56Dr. Tia Paul:What is that? I was actually having a conversation about that earlier today. So that's when you're combining different technology. And personally, I think that's where you get the best outcome. There is no one single laser that's going to get you the best. Like I actually make a lot of posts about this too, where I talk about how, So first of all, again, the skincare transformation journey is a journey over several months to years. And a lot of times I start off patients with one specific technology, say like the picosecond lasers to help with their brown spots, fine lines, pores. But then if they have much deeper lines underneath the eyes, I combine it with like an erbium resurfacing laser.

49:30Dr. Tia Paul:And I can even do it same day. And that's ablative? Well, it depends. You can have ablative mode or not. It is ablative, but you can make it fractionated or non-fractionated. But my point is you can even do it same day. So I do a lot of acne scar treatments where I will do the picosecond laser. And then for the specific areas where people have the more pronounced acne scar, I will do a little bit of erbium on top of that. But again, carefully because it's much higher risk, but it can be done. But I think that's how you get the best outcomes by combining different technologies. Even this morning, I have one patient where we were treating redness and I used two different lasers.

50:01Dr. Tia Paul:Each one of them were meant for redness, but I combined them to target their redness. just because you have to understand, like we were talking about earlier, there is no one magical laser out there that's going to treat everything. And why do you think so many derms keep investing in more and more laser? It's because the combination is where you get the best outcome. Yeah, because we haven't really touched on vascular lasers, which is the ones I think Carlene was talking about, the broadband light, BBL, right, that you did. And I know that when I've been in that type of setting, like a derm setting where they're like, you're a great candidate, do Moxie, then do Genesis, this and then do BBL.

50:35And I'm like, what are you even talking about? Because it's like shorthand of the actual device. And they're using brand names versus I try not to do that. I try not to do that because then it overwhelms you.

50:44Dr. Tia Paul:The whole point is don't overwhelm people or their skin. Exactly. So what would you say the difference is for a vascular laser, what you're treating versus... Yeah. So there is quite a few different types of vascular lasers out there. I don't want to just throw random acronyms and names, but the point is they are targeting blood vessels, right? So if you're trying to treat like those broken capillaries, there might be a laser that does that, treat the broken capillaries really well, but the overall diffused redness, you might have a different laser for that. And it comes down to the wavelength, the particular wavelength.

51:18Dr. Tia Paul:Now, BBL is interesting because BBL and IPL, they're essentially broadband light or intense pulse light where you're mimicking the actions of a laser. You're using different filters and you're making it. So they're not as targeted. So that's actually one of the reasons why I'm not the biggest fan of those technologies. BBL can help with both red as well as brown and also to some extent, you know, help with skin texture. But it's not going to be the same as like a laser, like a PDL that is targeted for red as opposed or like a picosecond laser that's targeted for brown. So it's a more generalized technology.

51:51Dr. Tia Paul:That's why you find those more in med spas versus like, you know, advanced derm offices, especially they're truly cosmetic like Durham Heavy, they're going to have more targeted devices. Okay. At my dermatologist's office, I was getting BBL, broadband light, and then I was also getting XLV. XLV is more targeted. What is that? Yeah. What is the generic name for XLV? It's a 532 laser. So it just comes down to, yes, what wavelength? Because remember our earlier conversation we had, the way lasers work is it targets specific molecules in our body. Either it's melanin, which is pigmentation, blood vessels, which is redness and water.

52:30And so XLV can be used for, you know, redness, but much more targeted than like a BPL. Exactly. So I think that's why they had me on both. So one was for overall redness and one was for my capillaries along my nose. And so now I always know because people will ask me, what can I do about broken capillaries? And I'm like, XLV, that's the only thing that I know, but that will target it. And it works, man. It does.

52:54Dr. Tia Paul:But now every damn year, the technologies keep changing. So now there's this thing called DermaV, which is super cool because it has inbuilt cooling with it. Because some of the problems with some of the redness laser is that if it overheats your skin, you can get blisters from it. So now DermaV comes with its own inbuilt cooling. So the risk of getting any blister or any complication is much lower. So on my darker skin population, I feel so much more comfortable with the DermaV. and these poor dermatologists are like, how do we get this big... I know. It's like moving a... Landfill. I know. And then every year I'm like, these lasers are expensive.

53:29Dr. Tia Paul:They're like a couple hundred thousand bucks. Every year I'm like, should I buy another one? Where do they end up? Oh my gosh. The question that we're asked constantly is about the Lima or Lima laser. It's one of these at-home devices. Are you familiar with it? And it's very, very, very pricey. I think it's about$5 ,000 for at home. Where do you land on it? So again, it's one of those things. I think it's gotten too much celebrity hype. It's not a bad product. It's just not going to compare with an in-office laser treatment. It's one of those things, kind of like red light therapy, where you can use it as an adjunct therapy at home, but it's not going to give you the same results as doing Moxie or BBL in office.

54:11What would be the number one at home skin device that you think is actually could make some kind of a different or just measures up the best amongst all of them out there? And which one would you say, like, please stop using this?

54:25Dr. Tia Paul:Again, it comes down to the efficacy, how good something is versus safety. My biggest thing is just don't do something where you have a higher chance of causing harm than any good. Rely more on skincare. That stuff we know can work well if you're consistent with it. And again, remember, every company wants to sell their product, at-home product, because they're trying to say, oh, don't go to an in-clinic. You don't need to go to a clinic. I don't know personally what I do. I can tell you that. I do use one of the red light masks. You do. But I don't think it's a red light mask that's making my skin glow.

54:56Dr. Tia Paul:It's still the PicoSure laser. But the red light mask in between is helping me for sure. Which one do you like? I like the one from Current Body. Oh, yeah, yeah. But even like maybe if I didn't use the mask versus I use the mask, I would probably see a difference. I don't know. I don't know. But part of it, I also like using it because it makes me feel good. Also, it's a time. It's a alone me time. My kids know they can stay away from mommy during that time. So is it life changing? No, but it is a good addition to my skincare routine. Yeah. PicoSure. How do you spell that? First of all, P-I-C-O is just like Pico Second Laser Technology.

55:33Dr. Tia Paul:And PicoSure is P-I-C-O-S-U-R-E. That is one particular type of picosecond laser from the brand Cynosure. Oh, okay, okay. So if you're going in and you're just asking for that service, what do you ask for? First, you can ask, do you have any picosecond lasers? And then if they are like, yep, which particular one do you have? Is it the PicoSure? And not to confuse people, but now they even have Pro, which is the newest generation. but the PicoSure Pro is like the most advanced picosecond lasers they have right now. Okay. And I forgot to ask you, how much is that one approximately? That too can vary.

56:10Dr. Tia Paul:I can't tell you how much I charge in my clinic. So we charge$9.50 per session for the entire phase, or I think it's$2 ,700 for a set of three. And then, you know, people add on their neck, chest. Oh my God, I have patients that add on their arms, but you name it. I probably treated every area you can think of. But, you know, I mostly started off with my face, had very good results from it. Yeah. And then but I'm also the believer in be careful, go slow. Yes. Rather than trying to see overnight transformations. Yeah. What's your favorite sunscreen right now for you personally? I'm a big fan of the Supergoop Glow Screen Sunscreen because that's what gives the glow on my skin.

56:46Yeah. OK. Looks great. Yeah. No conflict of interest. Yeah. Yeah. I love the disclosures. You're the best. You're the best. Our last question, if somebody were to visit you, so you have your, you're in Newport. Now, I understand that you're also chief medical officer at a place called Blue Sunil. Yeah. What's that? It seems like it's maybe more of a concept.

57:07Dr. Tia Paul:No, so I'm very excited about that project too. So Blue Sunil is basically a combination of wellness and aesthetics, but more so from like a regenerative medicine and longevity standpoint. So again, it's how can you age gracefully from inside out, not just fixing brown spots with a laser, but also taking care of underlying, you know, maybe cellular inflammation. So it incorporates certain wellness treatments, whether it's red light therapy, like red light bed, or whether it's like infusion of NAD, along with aesthetics, meaning lasers and microneedling for overall, you know, well-being of your health and your skin.

57:47So it almost is giving me like spa. Is it like destination spa kind of thing?

57:53Dr. Tia Paul:So it's not exactly a med spa. That's the whole point. It's about using medicine. So it's medically backed. It's me and then another fellow physician. It's using medically proven procedures where, again, you're combining wellness with aesthetics. So it's not just a med spa. But it's also like, you know, other technologies where you're kind of slowing down the aging process more so intrinsically. Thank you, Dr. Paul. where can everybody find you on Instagram and TikTok? So it's Dr. Tia Paul, D-R-Tia Paul on both Instagram and TikTok, as well as my practice is balanced skin dermatology and aesthetics in Newport Beach.

58:25Dr. Tia Paul:And yeah, I'm excited to be here and this was great. Thank you so much. Thank you. This was great. Thanks for listening. You can find details on every product mentioned in today's episode, along with our exclusive promo codes on our blog at breakingbeautypodcast.com. While you're there, be sure to sign up for our newsletter. Every episode will be delivered directly to your inbox so you won't miss a single thing. And get social with us. Let us know what you think of the episode. You can follow us on Instagram at Breaking Beauty Podcast. And did you know we also have a private Facebook group? Just search Breaking Beauty Podcast chat room.

58:59You can even leave us a voicemail at any time with questions or feedback at 1-844-227-0302. And don't forget to subscribe to us wherever you get your podcast Fix, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and Apple Podcasts, where you can show us some love by writing a review. See you next Wednesday.

59:35Please note that this episode may contain paid endorsements and advertisements for products and services. Individuals on the show may have a direct or indirect financial interest in products or services referred to in this episode. Ever wonder who's out there making the world go round? It's truckers. Who unites baristas with coffee beans? Truckers. Who unites dogs with their favorite shoe toy? Truckers. That's why Progressive offers truckers even more protection with Cargo Plus coverage to keep truckers moving right along. Quote truck insurance today in as little as eight minutes at progressivecommercial.com.

1:00:09Progressive Casualty Insurance Company and Affiliates, coverage subject to policy terms, limits, and conditions. Not yet available in California, New York, and Virginia. This episode is brought to you by Progressive Insurance. Do you ever think about switching insurance companies to see if you could save some cash? Progressive makes it easy to see if you could save when you bundle your home and auto policies. Try it at progressive.com. Progressive Casualty Insurance Company and Affiliates. Potential savings will vary. Not available in all states.

From the publisher

What if your best skin ever had nothing to do with Botox, fillers or even fancy skincare? This week we welcome Dr. Tia Paul, a Harvard- and MIT-trained, board-certified dermatologist—and major skin laser aficionado. As the founder of Balanced Skin Dermatology and Aesthetics in Newport Beach, California, Dr. Paul treats everything from acne, hyperpigmentation, eczema and psoriasis to skin cancer and she has earned over 400K followers on social media.


Tune in to find out how to achieve glass skin the non-gimmicky way, as Dr. Paul reveals everything to know about the most effective at-home brightening solutions, how-to navigate the world of professional lasers, and the “pyramid” framework she designed for a brighter skin game plan that won’t shock your skin or your credit card.


In this episode, we discuss:


  • Hydroquinone, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide — the new rules for skin brightening skincare in 2026
  • Lasers 101 — the difference between ablative and non-ablative lasers, vascular lasers and why the term “laser” itself is one of the most misused words in the beauty industry
  • What is laser “stacking” and why Dr. Paul says that combining technologies is where you get the best results
  • What’s all the fuss about Xerf? The new tightening device that's giving people snatched jawlines with zero downtime —  Dr. Paul shares her experience.
  • Myth or reality? The truth about lasers on skin of colour — and what to ask before your appointment
  • Why the Fitzpatrick scale is outdated — according to Dr. Paul — and what she thinks should replace it to treat a full range of skin tones
  • Dr. Paul’s go-to’s: The laser that she personally swears by for glass skin, and the favourite sunscreen the derm will be using to maintain clear skin results all summer long

Disclaimer: Please note the discussion in this podcast is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute the practice of medicine, nursing or other professional health care services, including the giving of medical advice. The content of this podcast is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or qualified healthcare provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

Get social with us and let us know what you think of the episode! Find us on Instagram, Tiktok,X, Threads. Join our private Facebook group. Or give us a call and leave us a voicemail at 1-844-227-0302.   Sign up for our Substack here. Subscribe to our YouTube Channel to watch our episodes! 

 

For any products or links mentioned in this episode, check out our website: https://breakingbeautypodcast.com/episode-recaps/ 

 

Related episodes like this: 


 

PROMO CODES:  When you support our sponsors, you support the creation of Breaking Beauty Podcast!  


One Skin

Born from over a decade of longevity research, OneSkin’s OS-01 Peptide™ is proven to target the visible signs of aging, helping you unlock your healthiest skin now and as you age. For a limited time, try OneSkin with 15% off using code BREAKINGBEAUTY at oneskin.co/BREAKINGBEAUTY. After you purchase, they’ll ask you where you heard about them. PLEASE support our show and tell them we sent you. 


Qualia Life Sciences

Experience the most trusted magnesium for purity, potency, and performance. Plus it’s non-GMO, vegan and gluten-free making it a choice you can feel good about. Go to qualialife.com/BEAUTY for 50% off.  And here’s a bonus, use the code BEAUTY for an additional 15% off your order. Thanks to Qualia for sponsoring this episode! 


Quince

Elevate your summer wardrobe. Go to Quince.com/breakingbeauty for free shipping on your order and 365-day returns. Now available in Canada, too. 


Dove

Discover the new Dove Serum+ Oil Body Wash — available in “Radiance” with notes of jojoba and monoi flower and “Soothing” with almond oil and sandalwood — at www.dove.com/ca. Now available on Amazon and in stores nationwide.


*Disclaimer: Unless otherwise stated, all products reviewed are gratis media samples submitted for editorial consideration.* 

 

Hosts: Carlene Higgins and Jill Dunn 

Theme song, used with permission: Cherry Bomb by Saya
 

Produced by Dear Media Studio 

See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.

More from Breaking Beauty Podcast

All 118 episodes
The *New* Rules of Skin Brightening, Laser “Stacking” and Why Everyone is Freaking Out Over Xerf with Dermatologist Dr. Tia PaulBreaking Beauty Podcast · 1 h
Listen in VO