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Fashion People Podcast Episode Summary
Podcast Title: Fashion People Episode Title: Another Thing Sofia Coppola and Wes Anderson Have in Common Host: Lauren Sherman Guest: Hagop Kourounian, Creator of Directors Fits Release Schedule: New episodes publish twice a week, every Tuesday and Friday.
Episode Overview In this episode, Lauren Sherman welcomes Hagop Kourounian to discuss the intersection of fashion and film, particularly focusing on the stylistic choices of film directors. They dive into the unique style of directors, the evolving relationship between fashion and Hollywood, the appeal of uniform dressing, the recent news regarding Victoria’s Secret’s new CEO, and the premiere of *Emily in Paris* Season 4.
Key Topics Discussed
- Fashion and Film Directors
- Directors as Style Icons
- Discussion on how directors often possess great style, which can be both utilitarian and expressive.
- Hagop's Instagram account, Directors Fits, showcases how directors present themselves and the relationship between their clothing choices and their creative identity.
- Uniform Dressing
- Exploration of why directors might gravitate towards uniform styles and how this reflects their creative processes.
- Victoria’s Secret CEO Transition
- Hillary Super's New Role
- Lauren shares insights into Hillary Super, the new CEO of Victoria’s Secret, and offers advice based on her extensive research into the company’s history.
- Emphasis on the importance of understanding contemporary perceptions of "sexy" for the brand's future success.
- *Emily in Paris* Season 4 Premiere
- Event Experience
- Lauren recounts her experience at the global premiere, discussing the mixed reception of the show’s fashion elements.
- Commentary on audience expectations versus brand participation in the fashion narrative of the show.
Key Takeaways
- The Influence of Directors on Fashion
- Directors’ clothing choices serve as a narrative device that can enhance storytelling and character development in films.
- The conversation points to an interesting overlap between creative expression in film and fashion, suggesting that both fields can influence each other significantly.
- Fashion's Role in Character Development
- Clothing can drastically affect an actor's performance and a character's portrayal, as demonstrated through the discussion of iconic outfits in cinema.
- Advice for Industry Leaders
- Lauren’s perspective on the importance of adapting to current trends and consumer sentiments is a recurring theme, especially in the context of leadership at brands like Victoria’s Secret.
Conclusion This episode offers rich insights into how the fashion industry interacts with the film world, highlighting the artistry behind how directors present themselves and the implications of those choices. It also underscores the significance of understanding the current fashion landscape to succeed in an evolving market.
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Additional Information
- For More Insights: Listeners are encouraged to check out Hagop's work on Directors Fits and Lauren's writings at Puck.
- Podcast Production: This episode was produced in partnership with Odyssey and features contributions from multiple team members at Puck.
--- This summary encapsulates the primary discussions from the episode while spotlighting key insights relevant to the fashion and film industries.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:03Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is Hagop Karunian, creator of Directors Fits. We're talking auteur style, why directors would make great fashion designers, and so much more. Let's get started. Hey, everyone. It's Lauren. Before we get going, I wanted to remind you that if you like this podcast, you'll definitely love Puck, where I send an email three times a week called Line Sheet. If you're a fashion person, you get that reference. it's an original look at what's really going on inside the fashion and beauty industries line sheet is scoopy analytical and above all fun along with me a subscription to puck gains you access to an unmatched roster of experts reporting on powerful people and companies in entertainment media sports politics finance the art world and much more if you're interested listeners of fashion people get a discount.
1:04Just go to puck.news slash fashion people to join puck or start a free trial. Now let's get started with the show. Happy Friday, everyone. I am currently out of the office. I'm spending some time in the Pacific Northwest. It is so beautiful here. I love trees. I love green things. I'm having a good time. This week on Line Sheet, Rachel Strugetts took a look at the early days of Blake Brown Beauty. Blake Lively's cheap and I guess chic? I guess that's debatable hair care line that is available at Target and also through her own website. It's performing really well and you know it's sold out through the DTC channels as well although someone who knows a lot about this stuff and does these kind of deals told me that it's really hard to miss at Target during that first month.
1:56So if you miss, it's really, really bad. I'm sure Rachel will check back in with Blake and her brand soon because she has behind-the-scenes intel no one else has. How out of control was this Blake Lively It Ends With Us tour? Like, I was really having a good time with her crazy clothing and her styling of the entire, like, costume designing, the entire thing. I don't know if you just Google, what is this brand that she was talking about? Magnolia Pearl Jeans or something. I don't know. I loved it. But then it just like got out of control and really dark. And I will not go see the movie, nor will I read the book.
2:36But if you did, let me know what you think of all of it. At this point, I've disengaged. On Thursday in Line Sheet, I offered some thoughts on Hillary Super, the new CEO of Victoria's Secret. as you probably know or may know, I co-wrote a book about Victoria's Secret, like a corporate history called Selling Sexy. It lands in stores on October 8th. And I'd say like I reported on every single aspect of this company and my biggest piece of advice to Super, not that she wants it, but would be to act in the now, like be in the present. It sounds sort of hokey, but every generation of exec would ask their team, like, what is sexy now?
3:22And the ones that got that right got the business right too. Like looking back, we might not think that stuff is sexy. We might think it's weird, but at the time it made sense. And when the marketing and the product made sense, the business made sense. So that's what I'll be watching for with Super, who's a merchant, not a finance person, not a turnaround person. So best of luck to her. I'm excited to see what happens. Oh, and one other thing, my friend Amanda and I went to the Emily in Paris premiere, global premiere in Hollywood on Wednesday night, which I don't think I've ever been to a television premiere.
3:59Unclear, but I don't remember. I don't remember anything these days. But it was really interesting. I love the show. I'm not sure how much fashion loves the show at this point. It's mixed. There are a lot of brands that participated. Ami has like an amazing storyline in the first episode, so congrats to them. But it also probably doesn't matter if the brands want to participate or not. I won't spoil anything for you here, but I would love for you to watch it. Let me know what you think, and also read my take at Puck. Let's get started with Hagop, who I met when he was helping put together the A24 book, Kyle director's dress.
4:40I wrote a chapter on red carpet, but I love his Instagram account, Directors Fits, which sort of captures how people, or does capture how people making movies look when they're making movies. Directors tend to have really great style. It's very utilitarian, but it also has a point of view. That's very much my thing. So I get a lot of inspiration, not just from Sofia Coppola, but from a lot of directors. Also Spike Jonze, her ex-husband. And he has amazing style. We have a lot of the same clothes, actually. But anyway, I hope you enjoy this and have a really great weekend. Huggo, welcome to Fashion People.
5:19Thank you so much. This is my first time on a podcast. And it's a special one because this is one of two podcasts I actually listen to. You and Matthew Belani's The Town. That's literally all I listen to, which I know you guys are both puck. But like both of you have the best podcast, in my opinion. in both of my interests. So that's awesome. Our audiences overlap, but not always. So I think Matt will think it's very cool that you listen to him. So the first question we ask on Fridays is what did you have for breakfast? Yes, I was waiting for this. I actually had it's a pretty Middle Eastern thing to do, but I ate watermelon with cheese.
5:59It's a great snack and black coffee with cinnamon sticks in it. That sounds awesome. Before we started recording, we were talking about Hagop is Armenian and I am a quarter Armenian and living in Los Angeles and like being around Armenian culture is very cool. But that sounds like the best breakfast ever. And as always, I'm very concerned with the balance of fats and protein and carbs. And it sounds like you really hit it. Yeah, I think it's a pretty well-balanced breakfast. You get some water in the watermelon, some good fats from the cheese, and then obviously coffee for the energy. Yeah. Yeah.
6:38So we connected what like two years ago on this How Directors Dress. How is that what it's called? Yeah. How Directors Dress. Yep. What Directors Wear on this book A24 was putting together that you wrote for and consulted on. And And I did a little chapter, but it was basically the big idea. It was sort of inspired by what artists wear, the Charlie Porter book. And the idea was to sort of look into the clothing and the wardrobes of directors and what it says about who they are as creative people, et cetera. And every person who contributed had a different sort of point of view chapter. I did one on red carpet.
7:27and but you you were one of the masterminds behind it because you run this Instagram account and that is more than an Instagram account it's a media brand now called Director Fitz maybe let's rewind and tell me when did you start this account what inspired you to start it what was the sort of impetus behind it first of all thank you so much for calling it more than just an Instagram account. It's a media platform. Yeah, that's how I see it because it's not just posting photos. We do so much more than that. Obviously the book, I've collaborated with studios, et cetera, on merchandise for films.
8:07So yeah, I'm trying to definitely take it above, a step or two above just an Instagram account. And hearing that from you is amazing. Thank you so much. But it started kind of like a lot of things in the pandemic out of boredom. I was getting ready to clean out you know my old laptop and I had this folder of mostly images that you see on the page right now they were already in this huge folder that I kind of had amassed and collected over the like four or five years of just like nerding out and like having a million tabs open about movies and directors and and designers etc because like most people, I love movies.
8:48And sometimes, you know, especially in high school, at a certain point, I was like, wait, who is making this movie that I'm obsessed with? Who is making this album I'm obsessed with? Who is behind this like brand that I'm obsessed with? Because I'm very much like into the creative process of things. Like, you know, I just love seeing an artist or a creator kind of get to the point that they're at, you know, especially if it's something I really like and has impacted me in certain ways. And in that research process, you just find like all these incredible images. And sometimes, you know, I like to think I'm somebody who is chronically online, like seeing like, I follow a lot of these mood board accounts.
9:27I follow all these like fashion pages, but I am not seeing any of these images anywhere. Like, and I think because, you know, I had actually read whenever I could get behind the paywall, I had read a lot of your work on like BOF or like Rachel Tashin. And I was part of like this like Tumblr era of kids who kind of discovered like Raf Simons and Rick Owens and Supreme and all that stuff there, like when I was in middle school. So I kind of felt like I had a little bit of like a background in clothing. And I started recognizing all those brands and pieces and like ways of thinking in these images of directors, you know.
10:04And yeah, I started just like being like, OK, these a few of these images I found are like really special. I should just save them for something later. I don't know what. I'm just a hoarder. My computer is a mess. Like you don't want to see the desktop is insane. But like, yeah, I just was collecting these images. And when I was kind of getting ready to transfer them, the important stuff onto a new computer, I was like, wow, this folder is already so well curated without me even trying. And I was like, okay, let me try to like organize them in a nice way, or maybe try to find more context behind some of these things that are happening in the images.
10:38You know, I don't know. I don't know exactly when I did it. I think it was around April 2021 where I was just like, OK, I'm just going to get the Instagram account, get the handle just to have the handle. And then I slowly literally to zero followers were uploading photos. And of course, you know, eventually a few of my friends followed. But then slowly, like people I admired started like finding the page. And before it was even at like four or five hundred followers, You know, like, for example, I think around that following number, Nomi Fry started following and reposted a few things. And I had also read her work for years, you know, and I was like, OK, if Nomi Fry is into this and is kind of co-signing this, I must be doing something right here.
11:19And I kind of was like just trusting my gut more. And I took it, you know, another step further. And I was like, OK, I'm going to keep doing this more and more. And then more people like her that I admire started following and people I didn't even know, but like later learned were influential or important people started following. And I was like, OK, there's something here for sure. And simultaneously, I screen print at home in my backyard, etc. So I was like, OK, like I should make some merchandise for movies that, in my opinion, merchandise for movies is terrible. My favorite movies had no great promotional tie-in items, you know?
11:56So I was like, literally from a fan perspective, like, I just want to make a t-shirt for this movie that I would wear personally. And kind of like both of those things kind of came together at the same time where it was a lot of these beautiful images being posted. But then I was also selling t-shirts or just making, you know, well-designed shirts. And, you know, it kind of all catapulted from there slowly. let's drill into why did you choose to focus on the clothing? Cause you could have made this account of just like cool looking or whatever, but you called it director fits. You could have just called it.
12:31I, I mean, not cool directors, but you know what I mean? Like just like directors in action, what you could have called it a million things that wouldn't have been as clever as director fits, but why focus on the actual like wardrobing that they're doing? Well, it's kind of what I said earlier. And like, I was noticing all these things that I was learning about clothes on the directors. Right. So like there was an obvious, like sometimes, you know, these people are also overlooked, you know, when it comes to the style, especially in the film world, like everyone talks about the stars, which is rightfully so.
13:06They're more famous. They're usually more beautiful. They're usually styled by people who know what they're doing. and I think there's something beautiful in what directors wear because sometimes it's functional you know and it's like a function following form in a way where like they're wearing things because they need to kind of they need pockets they need you know durable materials etc especially when they're working and there's something beautiful kind of like how we're obsessed with like these images of like, you know, early 20th century workers like in Levi's and in these, you know, the French workwear jackets, etc.
13:46There's something beautiful about something really lived in and used and purposeful. And that's kind of what I was noticing in a lot of these images where like, like Vim Vendors is wearing this thing with a million pockets because he's actually using all the pockets, you know? Or like if you look at a photo of like Tony Scott in a fishing vest, like every single thing on that on that uh garment is like stuffed with something and then i think there's also something beautiful where like sometimes things and this happens in other uh places as well not just with directors but like like something like that fishing vest it was made for fishing not for directing but like you take it and you make it something new exactly how like military is kind of recontextualized like years later or like um you know like literally the workwear stuff, but obviously it's being used for work in a way too.
14:35But like, there's something beautiful of it kind of going from one purpose, like a hundred years ago to like a totally new purpose. Now. It also sort of captures their creativity. Yeah. If you're taking a fisherman jacket and using it to stuff a bunch of papers or what little do hickeys that you need for, for filming, then that shows an ingenuity that a lot of these people have because they are so creative and dreaming up all these worlds and they're dreaming up like use cases for garments too, which is really fun for us fashion geeks. Yeah. And you kind of touched on it a little bit in your chapter for the book when you kind of compared actors' red carpet looks versus directors' red carpet looks.
15:24And directors kind of go from more of the eccentric, more maybe like nuanced look because they are kind of trying to give off a different type of persona. It is more of like I'm like a creative type person, you know, rather than like I just not that actors are only beautiful, but like, you know, there's like a certain difference when like between what directors wear and what actors wear on the red carpet. there's like this more of like a eccentricity to what they wear and like maybe something left field rather than, you know, more, more normal. Yeah. I found that they sort of over the last 20 years and the last five years in particular have gone from wearing kind of what they want on the red carpet to there is, these people do need to brand themselves a bit now as well.
16:13I Oh, I don't know. Peter Bogdanovich. I think his Ascot stuff is intentional, not unintentional. But do you see that? Do you see that like you're pouring over these images of people constantly? The auteurs from the 70s versus like the big directors now, do you see a difference? Do you think they're paying closer attention to what they're wearing on and off the red carpet? it. Yeah, 100%. I think it's because like a lot of those directors from the 70s, etc. are kind of like deified or like, you know, put on a pedestal because obviously they've made the greatest movies of all time, etc. So it is kind of this thing where like this generation or this kind of crop of new people are definitely conscious and aware of what those people look like back in the 70s, et cetera, 80s, whatever.
17:09And I think certain directors, like Paul Feig, for example, I don't think he's necessarily trying to channel an old director, but he's very conscious of what he wears. He's literally an Anderson and Shepard 24-7, or looks incredibly posh and beautiful. And then there's people like Janixa Bravo, who you wrote about as well, who are like, she's definitely aware of what she's wearing, and she's definitely trying to create a certain image for herself and a look for herself, which I think is working really well. And she will be someone we'll reference 20 years from now as like, you know, a well-dressed contemporary director.
17:47But yeah, and I think it's interesting too, though, because I think a lot of those people from the 70s and 80s are now kind of getting, of course, they were well-dressed always, but I think now they're kind of getting a little bit of recognition from designers and fashion people like firsthand. Like for example, like Anthony Vaccarello, one has an entire production company within St. Laurent's, you know, and is literally making like Paolo Sorrentino films, Cronenberg films, Almodovar films, et cetera. And then he also cast those people in his campaign like a year before that, you know, instead of having like, I don't know, Zoe Kravitz is the current, I think, celebrity that they're using.
18:30But like, instead of having a Zoe Kravitz or someone equivalent to that, like they, you know, put these old guys in front of the camera. And I think it's like a little bit of like, they're timeless, you know, and I think it also says something about like, how there's maybe not someone from the current crop of directors that's worthy of putting up there, you know, it says something about that as well. And I think there's also something of like, which is kind of what the book is about in a way of like, we can we can study the evolution of clothes through these people as well, you know, like, especially in the workwear chapter or in the climate chapter, you can literally see how those garments have changed over time with the directors that wear them.
19:11Like, for example, in the climate one, Sammy Rice talks about like Robert Altman on the set of McCabe and Mrs. Miller. And it's like a blizzarding snowstorm. And he's wearing this beautiful shirling fur lined coat. But then like you fast forward like 60 years later or something. And it's like Denny Volna... or sorry, it's like Peter Jackson directing the Lord of the Rings series in the very cold New Zealand. He's got the North Face Nupt's jacket on. And you kind of see, okay, technology advanced clothes this much where this is what cold climate clothes looks like now. And I think that's also a reason why maybe some of these current directors are not hitting for me personally, because I don't think the clothes is there to serve them too well, you know?
20:00Like, things, especially for like, I think it's different for red carpet looks because I think people like Sean Baker or like Yorgos and Janixa, et cetera, still look pretty good, you know, on the red carpet. But I think when you look at what some people are wearing on set and like with practical clothes, I think a lot of those things have just lost a lot of romance, you know? And it just doesn't look good anymore you know like hokas don't look as good as uh you know uh like uh crepe sold clarks from like the 70s you know cool cool uh yeah i feel like a recent example of something hitting is sofia coppola wearing those carhartt pants and because i know when i first saw them in like an ft and that FT feature on her.
20:46I thought they might be these jeans from The Row, which I bought. And then I realized they were the Carhartts, and then I bought like three pairs of the Carhartts. I mean, she is unique, and I would love to, she comes up in my life a lot, talk about her specifically at some point in this conversation, because I think she's just like a very, I'm curious what you think about her in the sort of conversation about directors because she's also separate from that and just like a style icon. And I don't use that word icon lightly. But yeah, I feel like she is interesting because even when she was younger, she still wore like her stuff, like a lot of APC in the late 90s, early 2000s.
21:41Charvet as well, right? Charvet shirts. Yeah. And like the Carhartt pants, like that feels comfort and traditional, or she'll wear a big puffer Anorak or whatever. She's not dressing up, but there's a lot of intention behind what she does. And maybe that has to do, maybe that's inherited. And the fact that she grew up on film sets and she's very interested in fashion. Her mom was very interested in fashion, she actually had like a lingerie line that I have a robe from in the early eighties. Yeah. It's really cool. But, um, but so I think it's maybe also like her upbringing and, and all of that.
22:25But what do you think of her when you, because you could put, I'm sure there are millions of accounts that are just photos of her. Like how much do you post her? What do you Think of her in the conversation of directors and what you're trying to do with director Fitz. Yeah, I think she's the North Star for me. Obviously, she's an incredible filmmaker and has grown up in that world. But like you said, she's also just a fan or just very much knowledgeable about everything going on in the fashion world. Of course, she interned at Chanel at 16 or something with Carl. She's directed campaigns for Chanel and Marc Jacobs, etc.
23:14And is clearly able to see a collection or see an item, a purse, etc. And build this vision and world around it that engulfs you in it. And just knows the right New Order song to put. And knows the right film camera to use with her Contax T2, I believe. But yeah, she's the North Star in my opinion. And I think she gets put in a different category that no one else is in. Maybe I could say a couple other names like an Agnes Varder, etc. that I would put on the same pedestal. But I think there's a difference between them in the sense that she's directly involved in capital F fashion. She's done a Louis Vuitton collection when Marc Jacobs was there.
23:57She's constantly doing these makeup things. And I think I believe she's some sort of she has some sort of position as Chanel now, I believe, since like 2019. I don't know exactly what it is. I'm forgetting the title. It's probably an ambassador or something like that. Right. But like from 2019 to like 2021, she was making so many little short films for Chanel all the time. I'll send you a couple of links after. Actually, I listen. I forget the guest. I'm so sorry. But yes. Oh, my gosh. She literally said the greatest thing I've ever heard in my life that like they should appoint her as the. as the head of Chanel because like and and the comparison to Pharrell was genius as well because like you kind of just need that I mean I don't know too much I'm not as involved in the capital of fashion world as you guys but like I I think in these days you need someone like like like a Pharrell or a Sofia Coppola to kind of like be the creative director of your brand or kind of just like be the coolest person wearing your brand that like everyone wants to then copy you know because that's what they're already doing like you bought her Carhartt pants immediately you know I bought my girlfriend the Augustinus Bader lip gloss or lip balm but it's really nice yeah yeah yeah no she loves it um but but yeah like she's someone where like she's so magnetic where like when she does something everyone is like oh my god they drop what they're doing and they want to like examine and analyze and dissect what she's just done and I don't think there's a lot of people like that left anymore kind of like you said in that in the pod as well like there's just no one who kind of is this cool anymore.
25:27And yeah, she's on a different pedestal, in my opinion. And I think she's the perfect, like, she's literally what, like, she's literally what I want the page to be is like, literally involve 50-50 in like, film and fashion. And in the sense that like, she's creating things for fashion companies with all this film influence and knowledge behind her. And that I think then creates like the most beautiful images that will then sell your brand the best, you know? Yeah. I think something that people take for granted today is you have so much information at your fingertips always. So you actually don't have to do a lot of research or prepare that much to get something done because it's all available to you.
26:13And what she does is she has the backlog of research in her brain and it results in better work. And I think this is across creative industries that because everything's so accessible, people do less work to prepare. And there is often like the results are better. If you put more, if, if you put more into it, you get more out of it. And she is such a great example of that.
26:44Hi, this is Jill Schlesinger, CBS news, business analyst, certified financial planner and the host of the Jill on Money podcast. With the new year upon us, there's no better time to take control of your financial life. And the Jill on Money podcast is here to help. It's your questions that make it possible for me to provide unconventional and I hope entertaining insights on your money, more importantly, on your life. Follow and listen to Jill on Money wherever you get your podcasts.
27:19When you were putting together the book, can you talk a bit about how you ended up working on the book and also people like her, she could be the whole book. So how did you sort of figure out how to organize it? That's like seven questions, but maybe start with like, how did you get involved and what was your role overall? So I had been doing the page for like about a year or so. And I had developed sort of a relationship with some of the people at the A24 publishing team. They had done some like interview on me that lived on their website. So I was in contact with a few of the people there. And I think around that same time, they were getting ready to kind of like expand the type of books they were making, you know, outside of just about their movies, which is a great because they have great taste of people that work there.
28:12And I think, I don't know, I think, I'm not sure exactly how it happened, but I think a creative director there was like, oh, this book, What Artists Wear is amazing. Because that book also came out right around the same time the page started. So it's so interesting. Like literally the first quarter of 2021, me and Charlie both kind of started this thing. Obviously, Charlie's is much more expansive and well-written and gorgeous. Yeah. Yours is pretty good too. No, no, I know. I know. But like I never like like I said, I'm not like I'm still learning about all this stuff, too. So when I read the book for the first Charlie's book for the first time, I was very, very interested in the way he was talking about clothes that I kind of didn't really think about before, you know.
28:58And then and then I think someone there was just like, you know, let's just combine these two things, which is, you know, pretty good idea. But when it comes to the organization part, I can't take credit for that because I was part of a team of like six or seven people. Charlie Robin Jones was the lead editor on this. And then we had John Derringer, who runs the Screen Slate newsletter. And then we had Caitlin Kinlan, who was a great image researcher and archivist, etc. for us. And I think all together, and Perrin, who also heads the publishing there. I think all of us together were like, we had this incredible, I'm sure maybe you even saw it, this incredible like Excel sheet that was like, okay, we're talking about these people in this chapter, this people in this chapter.
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29:39And when we saw that there was too much of someone in something, we would kind of flip them around or same with like gender and race, et cetera. We were trying to make everything as balanced as possible to kind of, to kind of give like a, you know, overview of like everyone. And obviously like we could make the whole book about Sophia, but then, then that would do a disservice to so many other people, of course. right? But maybe we'll do the Sophia book one day, just the strictly Sophia book. Her book that came out last year is really great. I highly recommend it. Oh, yeah. I look through it. I look through it all the time.
30:11It's incredible. Yeah, so many images there that I still have yet to scan and upload to the page. But when it comes to the research process, though, I agree 100 % what you said about Sophia, that she has this incredible backlog of information in her mind. And when you do like a lot of research online, you start to realize that like, there is nothing online, you know, there's actually nothing there, especially stuff from like 20 years ago. It's like, oh, okay, I found this great interview, but then the link is broken and you can't read it or things are just like servers are wiped and there's no information on the page anymore.
30:50But that's why I've been buying and reading a lot of old magazines, like details and days and index and the face. I'm forgetting a few others right now, but like, just developing my own kind of back catalog of information, you know? And a lot of those things are not online, you know? Like, there's a lot of great interviews with directors in that time that like, the images have not been uploaded to Instagram, or even online, and which is kind of why I think my page took off a little bit is because I try my hardest, my hardest to not share something that's already been shared a bunch of times before.
31:28Of course, sometimes it's like, I have no choice. The image is so great. You want to, or you have something new to say about it. But, uh, I also, the, I'm so lucky to live here in LA because we have, um, an incredible library here called the Margaret Herrick library, which is run by, um, the Academy and they just have the most insane archive of anything related to Hollywood or film, foreign film as well. And I spent so many hours there just searching Cronenberg and then seeing everything that came up and like, or searching like Cronenberg wares, Cronenberg war, you know, like those keywords to kind of like see how people describe, you know, these people that we're talking about.
32:11And a lot of the quotes, a lot of the like random images you see from there came from like uh this like insane research that I've done um I don't want to I'm not the only one who did it of course but like uh I feel like I brought a lot to the table when it came to like just researching these like or I was the only one in LA too so I was the only one who could actually go to that library etc but uh yeah that's that's kind of a little bit how the book came about that's so so fun so on on Instagram what are some of the most popular posts you've ever done in terms of likes or comments or what are the engagement rates wise what are some of the things that have really popped and you were like wow i i i definitely hit a nerve there yeah i think uh definitely sophia stuff does really well especially when it's not like one of the 10 images that vogue has run like a million times or something yeah like all those like 90s red carpet looks they're beautiful but like we've seen those images like 200 times we don't need to see them anymore but not anymore but like you know we don't need to keep posting them every year but Sophia does well the one that's coming to mind is on the set of I think Marie Antoinette she's wearing this like hoodie with a skeleton torso printed on it and I have yet to find who makes it I have no idea who makes it but that that image has done incredibly well for me especially over the last like year or so I posted a photo of Frederick Wiseman the documentary filmmaker at age 93 and and he's wearing this like gorgeous like well-worn like red shirt that's obviously like pink now because of how much he's worn it and then these He's like perfect, like really wide, really, really like also worn in pair of like brown trousers.
34:06And just, just the contrast of the pink and the brown looks, he looks like a Neapolitan ice cream. It looks beautiful. But that photo did so well. And I didn't think it would because I'd never posted him before. He's not that famous. I know people in the film world know him, but like, I don't think like surface level, you know, people know him too much. but he's also someone who Sophia has referenced a few times especially his like Neiman Marcus documentary is incredible if you guys have seen it but yeah that that posted incredibly well Nora Ephron does really well for me which is you know obvious yeah she's big for me yeah yeah and also the costumes in her films and that is something that I'm surprised not more I know Janixa was a costume designer before, but I'm surprised more costume designers don't become directors.
34:56Just I've spent a lot more time with costume designers since moving to LA and they have to be such great communicators and storytellers that I can see that transition so well. But Nora's sort of, to me, she is a great example of taking like preppy tropes, but she's not a preppy and that for me is what is interesting i love preppy clothes but i'm not preppy and so like meg ryan isn't really preppy but she wears like khakis and loafers in in you've got mail or or what have you and and she i just feel like in and out of of real life and on set and in the in the films you could really see who Nora Ephron was through her clothing.
35:45That's what I think is so incredible about film and fashion is like I think designers and directors are both world builders right like they're both have like this huge vision that they have to like portray visually uh obviously in different mediums but like I think that's why they go so hand in hand together and I have this like it hasn't I haven't developed it too much yet but I this like this take that like directors want to be designers and designers want to be directors you know like you've seen already the road art sisters and tom ford etc take an actual stab at movie making but then but then there's something about like anthony vaccarello creating a studio within his company that's like i want to i i want to do this too or i want to at least be involved in this world um and and obviously you see like luca and um uh um jonathan anderson's uh relationship you know um and i wouldn't be surprised if jonathan anderson has a film in the next like five years or something you know like he's not too far off from doing that and i think that's what i noticed in directors as well and i think that's what i've learned from directors is that like especially uh you know people up until like 2010 or something is like what they're wearing is so timeless you know like you could look at a photo of like werner herzog from the 70s and like someone in Silver Lake is wearing that outfit right now, you know?
37:06Or even same for, like, Rainer Werner Fassbender. Like, they wear such, like, it looks like he's wearing, like, Balenciaga boots in, like, 1969 or something. You know, it's just insane. But, yeah, I think that's what I think is so beautiful about this. And I think that's why I am also surprised more costume deniers aren't directors and vice versa. But, yeah, it's such a beautiful crossover, you know?
37:39so you recently interviewed vim vendors right yes like literally the coolest thing i've ever done so it's funny i had charlie who edited the book charlie robin jones i had um coffee with him in Paris a year over a year ago. And he was trying to interview Yoji to do the back. Cause Yoji wrote the afterward or the forward for the book or afterward. And then, and, and obviously Vim had a movie out this year and then the undercover show where it was him reading that piece of writing. Right. I think so. Oh, I don't, I don't know about the undercover show. Yeah. So like at the women's undercover show last season, it was a Vim Vendors poem.
38:32Wow. And, and it was called watching a working woman. I lit, I almost started crying. Wow. I didn't know it was him. Oh yeah. You need to, you need to listen to this. Um, I didn't know it was him cause it was right after perfect days. Yeah. It was in February, um, right after perfect days came out. Um, and I think he read it. It was definitely his poem. I, I was just like, you know, it's Wednesday. I'd been gone from home for all that time. Also the collection was truly incredible. It was so good. And, um, and then it, it just, um, I'm going to send it to you right now, but it was just, it's, it's remarkable.
39:21But what did, I, I obviously read over your, your conversation with him, but for, for those who haven't read it yet, and I encourage you all to check it out on it's director fits.com, right? Yeah, exactly. Yeah. So I really encourage you all to check it out, but what did you all talk about and what did you learn about like dressing yourself from him? So with, with Vim, I've never heard anyone, maybe besides Yoji speak so beautifully about clothes before. Um, I, I simply, you know, after doing a little, you know, intro preamble, like, how are you, et cetera. Um, I simply asked him like, what is your relationship to clothing?
40:02You know, like, what, how do you think about it, et cetera. And he literally spoke for like 15 minutes straight, nonstop. And I was like in awe, I couldn't believe it. Like from one question he said so much. But, you know, he said a story about how he was, when he was directing, in my opinion, his most beautiful film, Wings of Desire. It's all in black and white, but then there's one scene towards the end where the female protagonist, you know, wears a red dress to kind of like, you know, impress the angel character. and that's the scene that's in color you know when she has the red dress on and it's such a beautiful part because you know you've been watching this movie for two hours in black and white and all of a sudden there's color out of nowhere and he was saying that like they had a really hard time finding that dress that what was the dress that she was going to put on to like make her character kind of have this like revelation of like she it's more of a scene where she's kind of standing up for herself, I would say.
41:02And he was searching and searching, and he said he was, I think, in Berlin, and he finally found this dress, and it happened to be a Yoji Yamamoto dress, and he had no idea who he was, had no idea, you know, his history or anything like that, but the dress called out to him, and he bought it, and then took it to the actress. I'm sorry, I'm forgetting her name right now, which I should have known, but he took it to her, and she immediately was like, wow, she put it on, and she said, I feel incredible. Like, her, she was able to give that performance that he was looking for in that dress. And then he was talking about how that's the first time he realized that clothing can kind of change who you are in a way.
41:39And, you know, especially if you want to like be ready for a certain occasion, there are certain items you can put on that kind of change your persona in a bit, not change your persona, but kind of uplift you, you know? And he's like, well, I wanted to know who was this Yoji Yamamoto? Who was this guy who like made this thing and of course he went and bought a few things for himself and he said he became like infatuated with it and then later later on they made their documentary together which I encourage everyone to watch it's it's it's incredible um it's it's also beautiful scenes of Tokyo and Paris simultaneously but like it's just a it's just an incredible way of watching one artist um like kind of like peek into the view of another artist in a different medium and then make all these similarities and differences and connections to it.
42:25And then you see their friendship and beautiful. He calls him his brother. You see that kind of relationship form in the film and it's incredible. But yeah, I learned from him that clothing is very purposeful in the sense that you put something on for a certain occasion. He's got certain jackets he wears only for filming. and then he found a couple of designers that he wears that uh you know he feels comfortable in every day he calls clothes especially his yoji clothes his second skin which i think is incredible you know because it's like it's like a protective armor for him almost it's like when he wears this he's ready to kind of like conquer the world um in another way like uh i didn't interview him but i read in an interview wang car why he's he said that like when he puts his glasses on like he's the director Wong Kar Wai.
43:19That's kind of his, the item that he wears that goes from Wong Kar Wai to director Wong Kar Wai. And I think a lot of people feel that same way because clothing is so universal, right? We all have to wear it. And you see people who aren't really interested in clothes kind of recognize that a certain jacket, a certain t-shirt, et cetera, changes their mood or makes them feel good or is their lucky shirt, etc. So I think it's like a principle that everyone has in a way. But yeah, that's kind of what I took from him. And I also kind of took from him, like, try to find something you really like and just kind of make that your thing in a way, without trying too hard, of course.
44:04But like, he wears a lot of Paul Harndon as well, which is someone I learned about and like cannot find any information about except for one like barely barely um you know whatever some gq article that doesn't really say much about it but um but i think it's interesting and like he found he's these two designers that he he agrees with their worldview and the way they build things and he kind of just adopts it for himself paul harndan just came up for me too that's very interesting I wonder who was talking about him. There are like a few celebrities who wear his stuff. Like I know Jeremy Strong wears his stuff, but it's so interesting.
44:49Like no one's allowed to talk about him. It's weird. Like I literally prefaced my question to Wim with like, I know this is sensitive, but like, can you tell me anything about Paul Harns? And he literally did not say anything. I thought these might, it might be the brand that my husband just got a pair of chinos from. This designer just came up for me somewhere too. That's really interesting. It seems like a lot of people wear his stuff, but it's like not something widely available. Like I heard it's in Dover Street Markets, but like I checked the LA store and I did not see anything there. Obviously, I'm not sure if it's in London or New York or Japan, but yeah, it seems like a really weird brand that no one knows anything about.
45:30What is your thing? You said that he kind of said you have to find your thing. And I totally agree with that. I think your thing probably changes through the years. If you are giving it a purpose and your purpose changes, then the way you dress is going to change a little bit. Like I've done my, the way I've dressed has definitely changed since I moved to LA, but fundamentally it's still the same. I'm still the same. You could still see the same person in my clothes, but what are, what are some of your sort of wardrobe staples at this point? Yeah. So I I'm 27. So I think I'm like still developing that a little bit, you know?
46:08But I think I'm starting to get there in the sense that like for the last like three, four years, all I've worn are like Oxford shirts and, you know, similarly cut like striped button down shirts and stuff like that. And that's something that I just feel like 100 % myself in because it's also the thing of like, I don't like trends, you know, I follow them, I pay attention to them, but I don't know, I feel so silly, you know, wearing like extremely wide trousers when I haven't before. Just because Blackbird's five-point is telling me to wear them. I don't know. I don't think I should necessarily be wearing them.
46:41Definitely not. No, I love Jonah. I love the way he talks. But I don't know. I just think sometimes like, I don't want to look like everyone at the Silver Lake bar I'm going to, you know? But I don't know. I think for me, it's just literally, I'm trying to find things that are timeless in a sense where I can have them for like 10 years and then just keep buying them, which is something I already do. Like, uh, like I wear a lot of Mephisto shoes. Um, um, I literally have been buying them over and over again for the last like four or five years. And, and the origin for that is actually kind of funny because there are a few directors like Robert Altman who wore them a lot.
47:20But, um, at my, at my Armenian, uh, high school, uh, in the Valley, we had like a priest that would come to the school like every now and then. And I would be like so bored during those parts of the school that I would literally look down at his shoes and they were Mephisto. And I learned about Mephisto from that. I was like, I Googled it after. I was like, what is this? Are Armenians mostly Catholic or what, what kind of priest was it? They're, they're Orthodox Christians. I know there's a few Catholics as well. That's really interesting. So on my mom's side, they're Russian Orthodox Christians.
47:54So, or Ukrainian Orthodox Christians. So like on my mom's side, it's Russian Orthodox. On my dad's side it's Armenian no religion she was in Columbus so my grandmother who's Armenian as we talked about was in Columbus Ohio but it's just that's really interesting that it's all not not to bring it back back to you that's well if you think about uniforms and the way people dress like Bally Barrett who used to be the creative director at Hermes once I interviewed her and she had these amazing red socks on and she bought had bought them at the Vatican they were like Pope socks and I forgot to include it in the piece and always felt like a real idiot for not including it.
48:35But that kind of like utilitarian purpose driven is what I think excites a lot of fashion enthusiasts. Yeah, no, 100%. And that's something I love, too, is the uniform, you know, especially that's kind of one thing I look for a lot in a lot of these photos. It's like I because because, again, just things that are lived in look the best. and you can tell when someone has their own personal style. They're not necessarily wearing the same thing every day, but they wear like different variations of the same thing every day, right? Like, you know, the same kind of Oxford shirt, but like they have 10 brands, et cetera, or like 10 different colors or something.
49:12But that's also kind of how I like to collect clothes around me is like they need to have some sort of meaning outside of me in a way. Like when I look at the Mephisto's, I think of my high school and the priest. when I wear these Oxford shirts, I look at my grandpa because that's all he wears. And then when I wear certain like graphic t-shirts, like they're tied to like cars that my dad and uncle like or movies that they like, et cetera. You know, everything, everything, like all these things behind me to have like some sort of like connection back to like my life or something. I don't know. I just feel like we're not having some sort of connection to it.
49:51It feels like it doesn't feel as meaningful to me. And I also think you're right. You're in your 20s. You don't you don't need to decide yet. I wore some real stupid shit during that period and and honestly, occasionally still do. But when I really think about it, I always end up going back to the same stuff that I actually liked when I was a young teenager. And and you sort of and so much of my and I wonder if this is true for you, too. My personal style came from watching movies. I watch movies constantly when I was like 13. And I've been all through, but like really a lot when I was little.
50:30And because I'm a single mom, I was home alone a lot. And I watch movies all the time and TV all the time. Like I also watch stuff that you should not watch way too early. And like Twin Peaks, I watched when it was on. Great outfits. Which is I was like eight or nine years old, but I think Twin Peaks in particular really informed my aesthetics and like the way I dress and just the way everything, like maybe you wouldn't be able to tell looking at me, but just visually so much of that is, is still so close. But, um, yeah, it's, it's so interesting. Are there any big movies growing up that you feel like inspired your, your personal style or inspired you to do this?
51:16Yeah, first of all, I'm the same way. Everything, almost everything I've learned somehow has come from movies in a sense. Like my dad loves cars, for example. So we watch like old French films just to look at the cars in the background. And then I started learning what those cars were. And then I started seeing them in real life at car shows and stuff, especially here in LA. There's so much of that stuff. And then my brother is an architecture student and we watch certain films to look at architecturally significant homes. But I think that's what's beautiful about movies is everyone's interest somehow ends up in a movie.
51:53Whether it's clothes, architecture, cars, songs, or even period pieces about history that you're interested in. So much of our interest ladders up to movies because they're like little slices of life in a way, you know, even if they're not 100 % true stories, etc. But I think a couple of movies that like I also watched way too early on, which I think is the way to do things, you know, you should be exposed. Yeah, yeah, you have a little bit of you need to get screwed up in like a pretty harmless way when you're young, like watching Twin Peaks, because my mom's like, this is the best show ever on TV, you can watch it.
52:36Yeah, exactly. I think I think I think that's the way to raise kid. I don't know. A little good. It's like good damage. Yeah, exactly. It's and it's like when you watch it later on, when you're older and in the right mindset, it makes much more sense. You know, I had nightmares for years afterwards. I'm so afraid of Bob. It's fine. Oh, my God. Yeah. Well, well, some of mine are like, for example, I don't know why my dad was showing us this stuff, but like like we watched like body double at a very early age. Oh, my God. Yeah, it's so good. Which is like a crazy movie to show like a fifth grader or something.
53:11But I'm so happy he did. Or like we watched like Basic Instinct and like. Yeah, and Body Heat and all that kind of stuff. Yeah, exactly. He knew those scenes were coming up. Like he knew that was going to happen. But we still were like exposed to it as kids. And it was incredible. But yeah, I think like Body Double, Mahalan Drive, especially Justin Theroux's character in Mahalan Drive, like is a North Star for me. like one of the best dressed characters I've ever seen and of course he's a director in the film which is great um but uh yeah yeah I think I think those like Jackie Brown of course like all that kind of stuff a lot of them also happen to be LA movies if you made that connection but um yeah stuff like a Paul Thomas Anderson stuff as well like Punch Drunk Love or or um Magnolia where like I watched maybe too early um but yeah all that stuff I I you probably wouldn't see it If I if I if I gave you a full fit check or something, but like all those stuff are like ingrained in my head of like, OK, this is like how cool people look in a way.
54:13Totally. Totally. Yeah. Mahalan Drive. I think I was it. That was ninety nine. Right. So I was in high school, but I was still too young because that one scene at the diner when the guy comes. Oh, my God. Yeah. But I just rewatched it. Actually, when before we moved to L.A., we did a bunch of L.A. movies, including a couple PTA movies. And we did that. And there, I mean, they're just so LA has, is just, I mean, it's so romantic. Like it's, it's the cinematic it's your, it's, you're living in the movies and the, the colors and the kind of terrain. And then that combined with the way people dress is, is just like, it can really be movie magic in a way that East Coast is a little harder to pull off if you're not Nora Afron or what have you.
55:07No, 100%. I mean, I'm born and raised here, you know, and watching like a movie like Encino Man or like Punch Drunk Love, you know, like when I was a kid, I thought like, oh, like all movies are about my neighborhood. Like I just thought that was a thing. I didn't realize. But then when I got older, I was like, oh, my God, this is so special. Like we're living in the craziest place. Like people all over the world are watching PTA movies that are taking place, like literally blocks away from my house. Yeah. Like when PTA was making licorice pizza, I would walk. Yeah. I would walk my dog and I would run into the set on accident.
55:46Like that's how close that's how close in proximity all these things are. And yeah, it feels it feels like every day we're in a movie and it's incredible. I freaking love it. This has been so fun. I have one final question for you. Yeah. Do people in their 20s really go to bars in Silver Lake? I would say more like Highland Park, Echo Park, Eagle Rock. Like the Waltz bars. Maybe 4100 has a lot of young people there if you've been there. I've never heard of 4100. I live in Eagle Rock, so I know what Waltz is. I also don't go there. But I was just like, it feels like Silver Lake is too old for young people now.
56:24No, 100%. I think it's more of like Highland Park, like El Prado if you've been there. I've heard of it You know where I have been a lot Is Capri Club I dislike Capri Club so much It's not right No offense The people who own it are really nice But it's like a fake knockoff of a New York place It smells like Welcome to the Johnsons Which anyone Only the people who are my age Who lived in New York in the 2000s Will know what that is And it's fine Like I, I need, if I need a martini, I'll go there. But it feels, it almost feels like even like it's just college students or a bunch of girls. Yeah. I don't, I don't know.
57:07Something about the energy there just feels like sinister to me. I, I, I've been there once and I was like, I, I left within 20 minutes. I couldn't, I couldn't handle it. I don't know. I mean, I'm not a big, like, yeah, no offense. I don't know anybody who works there or owns it or runs it, but I don't know. There's something about there is like a little evil energy, but, but yeah, I would say like, even in a place like El Prado definitely is like a little evil as well. But you can tell like all the cool kids are there. Okay. I'm going to stay away then. This was so fun. Thank you for being here.
57:39Check out Director Fitz on Instagram, the website. Check out the book, How Directors Dress through A24. It's a really interesting, I was, I'd say my expectations for the book itself were exceeded. And a lot of that has to do with all the work you did on it. So congrats. Thank you, Lauren. Yeah. And, and, uh, the book is incredible. It's not like a typical coffee table book. There are actually a lot of words and incredible research in it. Rachel Tashin was a writer. Adam Ray was a writer, Tom Betridge, uh, Sammy Rice, so many incredible people wrote in that. Lynn Yeager. Lynn Yeager. Yeah. Oh my God.
58:14Her chapter is incredible. Uh, it's, it's so good. There's so much great information. It's really fun. Really fun. Special project to be a part of. Thank you for being here. This was so great. Of course. Thank you, Lauren. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck, hosted by Lauren Sherman. That's me. Our executive producers are John Kelly, co-founder of Puck, and Ben Landy, executive editor at Puck. Edited and mixed by Patrick Antonetti and mastered and produced by Bob Tabador. Special thanks to the team at Odyssey including J.D. Crowley Jenna Weiss-Berman Maddie Sprung-Kaiser Josefina Francis Hilary Schuff and Kurt Courtney
From the publisher
Lauren welcomes Directors Fits creator Hagop Kourounian to the show. They discuss why film directors have great style, the evolving relationship between fashion and Hollywood, and why uniform dressing is so appealing. Also, Lauren digs into the Victoria’s Secret C.E.O. news and offers a readout of the Emily in Paris Season 4 global premiere in L.A.
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