In short
Men’s Fashion Week in Paris during extreme heat, plus how the menswear show circuit is changing amid market pressure; broader debate about whether fashion’s “genius” creative model is being replaced by more sellable, standardized product.
Guests
Marc Beaugé, editor-in-chief of Letiquette (French menswear culture journalist). Background: started as a football/sports writer at L’Équipe/France Football; wrote for French GQ; covered subcultures through music and style; later ran magazines (including a football title and a news/movie magazine) and wrote a column for Le Monde; appears weekly on TV on Quotidien discussing what people wear.
Key claims
Paris heat made shorts acceptable but highlighted France’s low air-conditioning (structural building issues and political debate). Menswear shows feel more social and less about seeing clothes; wholesale/store fallout is narrowing the market. Brands succeed when styling lets clothes be legible (Prada praised for “radical simplicity”); over-styling can turn collections into “mountains of accessories.” Industry power may be shifting from artists to commercial leadership (Luca de Meo question).
Notable examples
Prada (simple, street-realizable sets; big 70s-style collars/zippers; Jacquard vests); Ralph Lauren (over-styled, accessory-heavy); Dior (rave/subculture energy); Loewe/Celine/Michael Rider (modern, wearable silhouettes); Our Legacy and Japanese brands (coherence/“balanced” subculture digestion).
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOHeat and Fashion Week Challenges
0:45 to 3:05
Discussion about the extreme heat during Paris Fashion Week and how it impacted fashion choices.
“I would say more, but this episode is long.”
Air Conditioning and Cultural Reflections
3:05 to 4:35
Exploration of the lack of air conditioning in France and its social implications.
“who definitely wears a lot of shorts messaged me and said, I don't understand how can it be worse than it is when it's hot here because New York is extremely humid.”
Political Debate on Air Conditioning
4:35 to 7:00
Debate on air conditioning as a political issue in France and its effects on living conditions.
“So that's the historical cultural explanation.”
Men's Fashion Shows Overview
7:00 to 10:00
Insights into the state of men's fashion shows in Paris, including social dynamics.
“for three people, but like, it's just the moment another person is in the room, it gets way worse, but I cannot do it again.”
Critique of Fashion Show Experiences
10:00 to 14:00
Critical reflections on the fashion show experience and the need for deeper engagement with designs.
“But I had dinner with a friend on Thursday night who's like very in the menswear world, but he lives in a different place and he, he sees all his menswear friends at the fashion shows in Paris in particular.”
Men's Fashion Shows: A Contrast
14:00 to 19:25
Explore the differences between men's and women's fashion shows and their social dynamics.
“Because it's so different from women's because women's is like really tight and really like, and oh yeah.”
Reflections on Prada and Styling Trends
19:25 to 23:10
Discuss the standout elements from recent Prada shows and the impact of styling on fashion.
“But what did you of what you saw and what you like the showrooms, the shows.”
Cultural Influences in Fashion
23:10 to 28:03
Analyze the cultural references and youthful themes in contemporary fashion, particularly at Dior.
“I think that's kind of the Michael Ryder effect and where he's, he is, he's pairing back.”
Youth Culture's Influence on Fashion
28:03 to 29:08
Explore how youth culture shapes fashion trends, focusing on Raf Simons and Dior.
“But what I will say is it was obviously like very thinking about youth.”
The Role of Subcultures in Fashion
29:08 to 31:01
Discuss the significance of subcultures in the fashion industry and their impact.
“Would I say that they come from the same background culturally?”
Show all 27 chapters
Artistic Directors vs. Marketing Strategies
31:01 to 33:12
Debate the influence of artistic directors compared to marketing strategies in fashion.
“more important than the marketing director at Dior?”
The Business of Fashion: Selling vs. Creativity
33:12 to 34:35
Examine the balance between selling clothes and maintaining creative integrity in fashion.
“I mean, it's just a question that I ask, but sometimes I wonder.”
Creative Freedom and Fashion Success
34:35 to 37:04
Analyze how granting creative freedom can lead to commercial success in fashion.
“Like the question is, is he right or not?”
Diverse Design Philosophy in Luxury Brands
37:04 to 39:28
Discuss the varying design philosophies of luxury brands and their implications.
“And I think with Dior, that's just such a tricky situation, but they are, they are invested in him and they will do anything they can to make it work.”
The Evolution of Fashion in a Crisis
39:28 to 42:01
Explore how the fashion industry is evolving amidst current challenges and trends.
“If you asked me to choose one brand, luxury brand where I could dress and money is no object, then I would probably right now choose Celine.”
The Evolution of Fashion Brands
42:01 to 44:18
Explore how current fashion brands are adapting to industry challenges.
“to see how everything is evolving nowadays because the industry is in crisis and people try and find solutions.”
Comparing Designers: Michael Ryder and Phoebe Philo
44:19 to 46:00
Discuss the contrasting approaches of designers Michael Ryder and Phoebe Philo.
“And and Phoebe, Hedy, Michael, there are people who bought across all those designers.”
The Modern Creative Director's Role
46:01 to 49:06
Analyze the traits and responsibilities of today’s creative directors in fashion.
“I think the silhouette thing is a good question.”
Fashion's Tricky Time and Consumer Sentiments
49:07 to 51:42
Examine how current uncertainties impact fashion and consumer preferences.
“And I think that's, he knows how to work within the system.”
Emerging Brands and Their Unique Identities
51:43 to 55:29
Discover how new brands like Our Legacy handle tradition and identity in fashion.
“And I think when you mentioned the Reese thing, I'm really sad not to be in Paris.”
Discussion on Fashion Brands and Trends
56:06 to 59:36
Explore the dynamics between classic and runway styles in fashion brands.
“I was like, this is not for me in any way.”
Introduction to Letiquette and Its Origins
59:38 to 1:04:38
Learn about the founding and philosophy behind the menswear magazine Letiquette.
“And also explain how you came to be, because I didn't know anything about you before a few months ago.”
The Unique Approach of Letiquette
1:04:38 to 1:10:03
Discover Letiquette's focus on storytelling and accessible fashion advice.
“So you have fashion images, but there is text on it.”
The Intricacies of Fashion Friendliness
1:10:03 to 1:11:34
The discussion examines the paradox of friendliness in the fashion world and the hidden standards behind personal taste.
“but being nice to people, being cool, just relaxed.”
Cultural Differences in Casual Wear
1:11:35 to 1:13:17
A comparison of fashion norms in New York versus Paris, focusing on casual wear and leggings.
“And especially if you launched a U S edition, but we could, I know you're not going to do that, but we could talk offline.”
The Evolution of Dressing Standards
1:13:18 to 1:17:46
The conversation explores the casualization of fashion in Paris and America, referencing historical context and current trends.
“But in America, people just wear leggings all the time.”
Clothing as Cultural Expression
1:17:47 to 1:20:23
Discussion on how fashion reflects personal culture and identity, emphasizing the importance of dressing meaningfully.
“Obviously, we dress a bit better than you do.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:04Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is Marc Beaugé, editor-in-chief of Letta Qu 'est. We're talking men's fashion week in Paris and plenty more. Happy Tuesday, everyone. Hope you had a great weekend. This week on line sheet, I've got an inside look at the biz of La Mer and also a look at the gray market for couture tickets. I don't even know if you consider it a gray market. I don't know. I'm just starting this investigation. I may never finish it because who really cares? But I guess people care.
0:42Anyway, Malik has a Skims diaspora scoop and there's a lot more going on. You got to read line sheet to find out. I would say more, but this episode is long. So let's get going with Mark. Stay cool out there wherever you are. Mark Beauger, welcome to Fashion People. Thank you, Lauren. I'm happy to see you. Yeah, same. Thanks a lot for having me on board. It's going to be fun. How was your week last week? It was buzzy. As you know, it was obviously fashion week. So it was buzzy. It was intense. It was hot. More importantly, very hot. I don't think we have ever experienced those temperatures in France.
1:25So it was sweaty, difficult to dress in that weather. You don't really know how to do. Can I wear shorts to get to shows? That kind of important questions. It was difficult. It was difficult. The shorts thing did come up several times during the week, which it would not have been as much of an issue at the women's shows because women can just wear dresses. I guess men can too, but it doesn't happen as much. What did you decide? Were you pro short for the shows? Did you wear shorts at night? How did you manage it? Yeah, I'm usually more dressed in a classic way, in a classic and elegant, I hope, way.
2:08But the temperatures were so hard that I opted for wearing shorts a few times in the week. Shorts can be nice and elegant. that needs to be quite short. I prefer shorts with long sleeve tops, so shirts or long t-shirts rather than shorts and short sleeves. The thing that I find difficult is when you're standing, shorts are great. I mean, it's good looking, it's nice. The difficult thing with shorts is when you sit down, so the leg takes more place, the tie gets bigger on the seat, and maybe you get some marks on the beehive of the leg when you stand up. So it's tricky to do shorts well, but I tried it and I saw a few people doing it very well.
2:57But yeah, shorts were tolerated last week in Paris for shows. I don't think anyone had a choice. I mean, one thing, a friend of mine from New York who definitely wears a lot of shorts messaged me and said, I don't understand how can it be worse than it is when it's hot here because New York is extremely humid. So when it is hot like it was last week in Paris, it's also humid and it is a different sort of hell. Like I would say being outside in Paris last week and I had to leave early. I did come to New York for something. So I was only there until Thursday, but being there at the peak heat, being outside is more comfortable than New York.
3:42But the difference, and I explained to him, is that very few places have air conditioning and the places that do, do not have real air conditioning in the American sense. It doesn't work. Can you briefly explain why there is not a lot of air conditioning in France, other than the fact that it used to not get this hot? Yeah, I think we have in Europe less air conditioning than any country, while we're supposed to be one of the leading countries in terms of economic development, etc. So I think there are structural explanations to it. Most of the buildings in the big cities are very old. We are not equipped right away, obviously, with air conditioning.
4:27It takes money. It takes people to agree all together in the building to have it made. So I think about 15 persons only of the apartments in Paris have got air conditioning. So that's the historical cultural explanation. But it has gone to the point where the air conditioning thing has become almost of a political debate. on the left wing you have got people saying that air conditioning is the right wing thing if something for rich people because technically when you get air conditioning in one apartment in a wood building the guy pays for it and is the only one in the apartment in the building to have it then it creates more warmth for the rest of the building you see people around him that don't have air conditioning are in a worse condition than before the guy had it.
5:27So it has become a debate subject. It's something that the right wing said we should have it everywhere. The left wing said it doesn't solve the problems. We can have it maybe in the hospitals, the schools, etc. But if we have it in individual buildings, people will forget the situation we are in at the whole means we are in a bad situation. We need to change the way we live. So it's a very difficult topic. I myself bought fans. It doesn't work. It doesn't work. Don't buy fans. It just mixes hot air into hot air. So it doesn't work. um yeah so it's supposed to get even worse in in a week in paris like i'm from the week starting of the 6th of july i don't know if you're coming back it will last longer i am and it's supposed to be worse they are talking about 45 degrees what yeah 45 oh my god we will go from wearing shorts to wearing knickers in public, maybe at that point.
6:42I'm getting an air conditioner. Yeah. We resisted and we rented a hotel room for three nights at a very bad hotel that smelled bad, but was fresh. And we actually switched off my husband and I, like one night I stayed there one night he and my kids stayed there because we were like, it's going to be too hot in this room for three people, but like, it's just the moment another person is in the room, it gets way worse, but I cannot do it again. What I, this is the thing I will say, this is the most, first of all, this is the most political that fashion people ever will get. Exactly. Exactly. And then also I had a funny experience that was a sort of precursor to this.
7:27We got there in March where we stayed in a temporary place, March through July. And in April, it was quite cold still at night. And my son, we were making him like makeshift heating, warm, hot water bottles for his bed because the, because the heater wasn't on. And my husband texted the landlord and said, Hey, is it possible to turn the heater back on? We don't know how. And the radiators and it's really cold at night. You know, we're coming from California where it's very temperate. And she said, oh no, the building voted to shut the heat off for the year. Welcome to France, Lauren. That kind of things get decided by everyone.
8:17So. Thank you for the preview. I am supposed to be there for Couture. That's supposed to be our last week there before we go away for the summer. So I think we will buy an air conditioner or two and, and keep them in our, in our storage unit for, for, but you know, it's, it's interesting. I lived in the UK 20 years ago and now going there, you pretty much in, in people's houses, they still don't always have them, but like schools and things and the only, the Metro still The metro in Paris, some of them are air conditioned. Like 25 % of the metro's line have it. The nine, I think, sometimes. The nine do have it, yes.
8:58Yeah, but it was just a strange situation where I said to my husband, I was like, why didn't we just buy them? Like, why didn't we do it? And he's like, I don't know. I thought it wasn't going to be that bad. And I think that happens to a lot of people that you just don't, you think it's going to be okay with shutting. because there's these metal shutters on the windows. So if you keep them down all day and then you have a fan and you open the window for a couple hours at night, it's okay. And with one person in the room, it's okay. But then once you have like two people in a room, it's just...
9:33Anyway, we could talk about this forever. A friend of mine said, and I want to talk about Letta Ket a bit and how you got there because we talk about it quite a bit in Line Sheet and also on the podcast. So would love to hear more about that. But really quickly on the men's shows last from maybe we'll do the men's shows and then we can talk more about Let to Cat and how you got to be there because it's interesting. But I had dinner with a friend on Thursday night who's like very in the menswear world, but he lives in a different place and he, he sees all his menswear friends at the fashion shows in Paris in particular.
10:18And he said, you know, everybody was kind of miserable and it was stressed and seemed, he said, do you think this scene is sort of over? And I said, well, I think a lot of it is the heat and, and that was part of it. But I'm curious. I haven't covered, I don't cover menswear super, super closely, but, um, but I've dipped in and out of the menswear shows over the years and I've always enjoyed them because it does feel like everybody's friends and part of it is very social. Whereas women's is people are friends, but it's not like no one's going there for their, for fun. Whereas there are a lot of people who I think come in for the men's shows in Paris in particular to hang out and see people and do meetings.
11:04But it's a fun time. But I think that going to Milan and Paris this season, the fallout of wholesale globally and the fact that there just aren't as many stores for people to sell to, I feel like that's really starting to affect the menswear market. And there are still a lot of brands, but there are maybe fewer and how they sell is more narrow. And it did feel like a bit of a changed to me in terms of like, what are these shows for? And, and it felt to me, it was much more about the social element and less about, about the shows themselves. There were a couple exceptions, but I'm curious what you think.
11:47I thought Milan to start with, it started in Milan was, um, was very quiet. So very few shows, you would have two, two, three days max. And, um, Prada was impressive and we'll probably talk about it. But apart from that, nothing striking, nothing able to open a conversation. I mean, it's nice, it's not nice, you like it or you don't like it, but nothing that makes you wonder what fashion is about or what time do we live in or nothing that tells you something about the world. I think, obviously, it played a huge part in the way people interact and people talk, people look miserable or not. But I mean, looking miserable is part of the charm of working in fashion.
12:41You cannot show that you enjoy it truly, otherwise you are not cool enough. But I mean, it has been like that forever, basically. But yeah, I felt it a bit this season. and going on to Paris. I mean, from a personal point of view, I don't do every one of them. So I do the big ones. I think maybe, strangely, I mean, the shows can be good or bad, but I get frustrated by it as you don't properly see clothes. You don't properly see the fabric. I mean, I love Reese's. I think Reese's can be much more interesting in a way is that shows or at least complimentary. I mean, you need to see both of them to understand the collection.
13:33That's what I thought when I saw Prada, Giorg also. You need to get to touch the clothes to get a proper idea of what is going on. And so I love the Reese's. I also find that presentations or showrooms or smaller brands, places where we can talk where we can not just sit and take a few pictures on our phone but talk to the designers are much more fulfilling and pleasing than the big ones where everyone is in a hurry, you get to sit down you don't talk much and you rush out of it I mean it probably has been going out like that forever but it's a big circus the car is waiting for you you have got to write something maybe everyone does that one thing where you text you take one picture and then you put it in a story with the name of the brand what it's why is it to show that you were there is it to sign on to your editor-in-chief or to the other journalist I don't know but everybody does that kind of thing where it's just you are there because you have to be there but you don't really say anything about the shows so yeah I do enjoy it but I do enjoy sometimes keeping shows I mean I was supposed to go to Sakai but I mean after Selene I just went home sometimes it's good to just not go and you can watch it obviously on the social and look at the images but yeah Shota are not the most friendly of places of course It's funny because to me the men's They're so relaxed and friendly.
15:23Yeah. Because it's so different from women's because women's is like really tight and really like, and oh yeah. I mean, I think my week was cut short because I had to do this trip to New York. And so, and I didn't on Thursday, I was in dealing with shit all day. So I missed, basically the last show I went to was Dior, I think. I went to Dior and then I went to Merrill Roge. And then was there anything on Wednesday afternoon that, because I wasn't going to go to the many anyway, but, but I missed like Rick, I was going to go to Rick and Drees and Issy on Thursday. Like I missed everything sadly, but, but I think when I have done men's before and in Milan, obviously I only did four shows.
16:13The thing to me that's different is like everyone at the men's shows are friends or there are cliques of guys. That doesn't exist at the women's shows. It is true. I mean, there is a clique of guys. Like you have got Jacob, Samuel, Mathieu from Les Echos, Ai from Time to Time. And they're just like loving each other up constantly. indeed indeed um that does not exist you don't have it in women's shows no i mean it's like you have your friends but i think i don't know this might but i there is a there is a feeling of like i need to get back home to my kids oh yeah quite a bit with the women's that does not exist in the men's to be honest like it just isn't it isn't the narrative of like whereas everyone's kind of like and there's just more I don't know Jacob and I have talked about it because he's covered the women's quite a bit now that he works at the times and he feels the difference like everybody's just really in really tense and also the magazines there are way more people who come okay so like you're kind of with your people who are from your magazine I'm not like that because I no matter where I've worked, I've sort of been like on my own, even at BOF, like I was kind of with them, but I would get seated with the Americans a lot.
17:45So I would, I, I tended the way I became friends with Becky Malinsky and Jacob to an extent was because like I was seated with the wall street journal a lot and we would go around together a lot, but, um, but it's a different, um, it's definitely a more, a lot more camaraderie and a lot more like, Oh my God, let's have fun together. This is so fun. We give each other hugs. It's true. A lot of hugs. That does not happen in the winter. It's a very physical thing. I mean, it's very friendly. It's almost like a football team in a way. But yeah, there is camaraderie. It's true. Small clicks. And yeah, we do love this.
18:35So what did you see I was sad to miss Sakai because those Birkenstocks looked amazing and I want that. I was like, oh, those are the sandals I needed this summer. They were really good. And it's like one of those, it was an example of a shoe that is twisted or whatever on a classic that it actually felt like useful, not even useful, but it looked right. Like sometimes when people do like the Birkenstocks have three different straps. It's just like the Arizona, but they did three straps and they have all different buckles. A lot of times with that kind of stuff, I'm like, that's too fussy for me.
19:14And it's like why it's like having a third arm on a sleeve or something. But in that case, I was like, oh, this actually looks really good. And I will buy these and wear them. I was sad to miss that one. But what did you of what you saw and what you like the showrooms, the shows. And let's start with Milan. Like what what really stood out to you? I think there were three main shows in Milan, Prada, Ralph Lauren, and Armani. I didn't go to Dolce. I loved Prada, which everybody didn't like. I liked it because it was radical in a way. I mean, the biggest thing to me wasn't the skinny jeans or the fact that the models were indeed very skinny.
20:07What I saw was something radical in its simplicity. And also, because this is how we look at shows, at the etiquette, I saw ideas that you could get into real life. real life being the streets, real people going to jobs and buying from somewhere else than Prada actually. So there were simple ideas like you can dress in a set, in a suit, but not a tailoring suit. You can wear denim, red denim on top in pants or green or black, but a set of matching top and bottom. So that's an idea you can easily do in real life without even going to Prada. I love the vest, the Jacquard vest, the small and old man vest with great Jacquard.
21:09I mean, it was also, I mean, the skinny thing, obviously there is a rock and roll feeling to it, a Nnedi Slimane thing. but I think more than the fit it was culturally relevant I mean you could see this leather jacket with the big collar we used to call them zippers because they would have in the 70s big zippers on the front plastic one they changed the plastic zippers to metallic one but still keeping them very big with the big collar that's a 70s thing I mean when you know the references you see it as something more than just a new trend or just a fashion piece. And that's what I liked with that Prada thing, is that I could see quite a lot of things that brought to me references, culture, music.
22:01This often is the case with Prada, obviously. But the simplicity of the looks, to me, was more important than the fact that the pants were now. I think they will obviously work on the feet for the commercial part. They will make it a bit more wearable. But I like the fact that she was not too overstyled because a lot of the shows were styled, evilly styled. I mean, when you look at Ralph, it was evilly styled. And a lot of people loved it, but I think when, I mean, to me, It was the collection of half was good. Of course, they know what they do. But do you need to add on every tuxedo, like a Navarro cap, plus an indigo patchwork, sweater tied around the other shoulders?
22:58Do you need to go that far in just styling? Do you need to, I mean, it's like a mountain of accessories falling on the model. I mean, I find it a bit stronger when it's more simple. Yeah. I think that's kind of the Michael Ryder effect and where he's, he is, he's pairing back. Like he has, he's has, he has the ultimate sort of sense of style. And obviously what he was doing at Ralph was very affected by how Ralph styles is styled generally. But I think you're right that like, there needs to be a bit of a. Respiration. Pairing back now. Yeah. I mean, Celine is very styled also. And I was thinking maybe we are going in a season with a stylist of the brand, as important as the designers or the creative directors, because we probably, the brands, ask the creative director to do something safer, more simple.
24:00So when you get to the shows, you still need to create attention and create an event. So maybe you ask the stylist to do more. for Orale to me the past few years has been the benchmark in terms of something is happening but I could go like that in the street wearing that exact style and setup but when you push it too much too far away you don't see the clothes anymore you just see a mountain of accessories on one guy and it loses his direction so that's that's why Louis Vuitton even though the collection I mean was not to me like amazing obviously but he was better than in the past but I thought one of the things that they did, and probably Charlotte Collet who styled it, did was to make it more simple.
24:45Take off a few bags, take off a bit of jewelry, take off wood sometimes. So she made it more simple and more digest. I mean, you could see, you could understand the clothing, the clothes and the silhouettes. So a style, you need to do it the right way. you can easily go too far, but if it's done the right way, sometimes you just need one outfit without any accessories. Sometimes obviously you need a sweater, you need to have the hood on, but it's quite subtle. I mean, how you style it and sometimes they went too far. Prada was simple and was for that. I like it for that mostly. Yeah, and I think Prada, I think they style it themselves now.
25:34and that it's interesting a lot of these designers they go into like the ones that have a really good sense and work the best with stylists like demna or raf and mucha with mucha with lata from yumu they will go in and out of even using a stylist like sometimes demna uses a stylist and sometimes he doesn't and michael rider same thing i think there's something to it if you have a good sense of yourself, the only thing the stylist does is help and bring more tension. And I think what Charlotte did, I think the reason Charlotte is so influential, if you look at her work with Aura Lee and then also obviously Bally and Jill Sander is, is like, she has, she just proposes, this is how you to wear it.
26:24And it's sometimes in like a weird way, but sometimes not like, I know that you've written about sweater over your shoulder. Would it be as big of a thing if it wasn't for Charlotte and Orly and the way she meant, you know? The way Charlotte's style things, it's never ridiculous. No, but you know what? She will be annoyed that we're talking about her so much right now. Sorry, Charlotte. Sorry, Charlotte. I've been doing a lot of PR for Charlotte. I mean, the think that i mean i read a lot of people saying that the styling at half loren was amazing i saw a lot of content around it instagram pages guys and wow the styling i mean it's just because it makes images because it makes wow a mountain of informations color flashing everywhere details navarro um i mean borrow you have a preppy everything on one outfit and it creates an image on Instagram may be attractive or at least, I mean, strong, but sometimes you just need to count things down and it creates relief to create, I mean, to create something simple, then a bit more complicated and back to something simple.
27:44And Charlotte, she does it very well. Some brands do it very well. Orale has been doing it very well. And you can kill a collection if you don't do that properly yeah you know it's interesting you mentioned the the silhouette at Prada and the obsession with it but also the youth thing and I tried to stay out of the discourse of like Raph and Heddy because people have to remember the whole thing the reason Heddy hates Kathy Horn is she says that Raph made this the low-rise silhouette before Heddy so the thing is Raf is a silhouette person and like that I stayed out of that. But what I will say is it was obviously like very thinking about youth.
28:31And I had had a conversation with someone that week about some club in Milan that was like cool in the 2010s that Raf used to go to. And then I did the backstage interview with Jonathan at Dior and he was talking about like rave culture coming back in the British suburbs. and how he was sort of inspired by that and the music and Fred again and all that stuff. But like, I'm curious what you thought about Dior and how that is in conversation with what was happening at product. Cause I do think there's something connecting the two. Yeah. I don't know if you do, yeah. Would I say that they come from the same background culturally?
29:18I think they have an attraction for subcultures. I think they have an attraction more towards underground scenes rather than the luxury world. I think they digested both of them very well. I mean, not being specific about the latest collection, but their personalities, their culture are very much linked to underground scenes and subcultural movements. Which is interesting when that doesn't really exist anymore. Indeed. I mean, obviously, the childhood memories, teenage years plays a big part in the fantasies that they try and make on the catwalk in the collections. But yeah, it's interesting to me that you can, that kind of profile in such an industry, such a big industry, meaning to speak to as much as possible people, meaning to to be understandable, meaning to talk to people who have got money but no specific background into subcultures, can give the keys to jobs, to people who are obsessed with niche, cultural places, movement, artists.
30:45So sometimes I wonder how important in the industry are those guys? I mean, we talk about them all day, obviously, but if it's in industrial terms, is Jonathan Anderson more important than the marketing director at Dior? Well, is Jonathan Anderson the marketing director at Dior. Maybe, maybe. I think in that case, like that he is also that. Yeah. And that's a big investment and a big risk on their part in some ways. Indeed. For instance, I know Lucas Demeo just a few at Kering just a few days ago told his leading team of managers that he didn't care at all about artists. That he doesn't want art directors to be artists.
31:40He wants to sell clothes and if it doesn't fit anyone, for instance he was told a story that at Balanzaga shops in Eastern in, I think it was in Dubai they had a mini skirt because apparently he saw them the guy, the salesman at the shop told him at the Balanzaga shop in Dubai, told him, but we don't sell them because the local women obviously don't wear miniskirts. So he went back to Balanzaga. He said, why are you doing, why are they doing miniskirts for that shop in that country? And he was told because Demna wants miniskirts only. I mean, I don't know. Is it true as Demna has been told about it?
32:32But he doesn't get it. I mean, even if the vision as Dana is only girls in miniskirt. I mean, he wants to make a product that can be sold and can be bought by people in the local shops. So, I mean, it doesn't... Demeo, and I think it's going to be bigger and bigger as the crisis go on and gets maybe deeper and deeper. The artists won't be as free as they used to be 10 years ago. and the art directors are often pushed to the front of the scene, but are they the real bosses of the industry? Are they the one that, I mean, are the most influential in a brand success? You can debate. I mean, it's just a question that I ask, but sometimes I wonder.
33:27well it's a great so here is here is the question with luca de mayo and on the mini skirt and demna i have a pencil skirt from demna gucci that is for sale right now so there may be other other skirts available maybe not in 112 you didn't buy it in dubai then no i you know i have to go i i'm supposed to go to the store in new york and try them on and i was supposed to go last weekend Anyway, no one wants to hear about my my dramas, my personal dramas of my my pencil skirt off offline.
34:13So here's the thing about Luca DeMeo. That is the question. Whatever he actually said, he has said something along the line. He wants to sell clothes. Like I heard this story and they were like, oh, we can't confirm this. but I wrote about it anyway, about him going, taking a team into Zara and being like, why does our thing cost so much more? We can still make a great margin. And this is the same quality. Like the question is, is he right or not? Because if he's right, to me, the thing that sells clothes and fashion, like you look at Chanel, Chanel is like emotional, a fantasy, but also really good quality and a good product that the value, you can feel the value in the product.
34:58Yeah, of course. Like the price value equation. It's like the MBA, Harvard Business School meets a crazy emotion. You have no idea why Katie Grant has 75 bags of Chanel. Like, why is she doing this? Why did I buy a Chanel jacket that I can only wear? I can't wear to lunch on the Upper East Side because I'll look silly, but like I still bought it and have no money now. There's something about it that is, it is the creativity bit that like, and the reason I think Bernard Arnault has been so successful is he took the private equity model of America and the ruthlessness of that. But then he applied this like brand preservation thing.
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35:39And no matter what you think about those brands, like they are trying tacky or not to preserve the brand and then also investing heavily in the creative person. So like we can talk about Celine and Michael Ryder, which I think is the sort of platonic ideal of how a brand can work in 2026 and not totally lose its soul. I mean, Celine doesn't really have a soul generally, so it does, but you know what I mean? Like you feel, um, but I think that the question for DeMeo is like letting people loose is what makes you a bunch of money in some ways. Like if you give someone creative reign and they're good, it explodes and becomes like someone said to me the other day, Michael Ryder would have been so good at Gucci.
36:30Like before when the, instead of having Sabato, they should have hired Michael Ryder because Gucci was moving in a direction that needed to be preppy. Like it felt like it needed to be preppy and he would have been amazing. But, um, but the point being that like, you're right. If, if Luca, if Luca proves that he, this is just like fashion is just CPG now and you can just make stuff and it's, it's really standardized and that can be successful, then the creative people are going to lose out. But I think what they're going to end up finding is if you look at the most successful brands right now, Chanel, Prada, Miu Miu to an extent, Versace, it was all because the creative people were given like some bit of freedom.
37:22And I think with Dior, that's just such a tricky situation, but they are, they are invested in him and they will do anything they can to make it work. How that will end up manifesting, I do not know. But, but I think it's a good question. Like, what is what De Meo thinks is going to actually work? I haven't seen it yet. I don't know the answer. I know that François-Henri Pinault a few years back stated in AUS that they were the group of the rebels that Alexander McQueen, Demna, obviously at the helm of the biggest Kieran Browns were rebels. that contrary to LVMH, Kering should be the brand for the difficult art director and that the DNA of the group was that.
38:18Lucas Demeo, I think, has come in with the exact opposite idea that you need to be coherent, you need to be effective, you need to be good quality, but not overly designed. I mean, will it work? Will it be enough to create an emotion? How does it compare, in a way, to Hermès, which obviously is a benchmark of it for the brand, is into fashion without being overly fashion, is great quality that is always the same. You don't see the differences when a new art director comes in. I personally feel that you can have in one group a different way of working, maybe a brand like Gucci should be mostly quality then after design, while a brand like Alexander McQueen obviously should be a lot more into designs and doing things in its own way in a classic way what I find interesting in Michael rider success.
39:32If you asked me to choose one brand, luxury brand where I could dress and money is no object, then I would probably right now choose Celine. Once I have said that, easy at the same level or intellectual power or easy building a world like Jonathan Anderson does. Is he building a world like Demna did at Balenciaga? Is he making great clothes? And clothes I personally want to wear on Will Put on an etiquette without a shadow of a doubt. But is he a designer or an artist director? Is he John Gagnano in a way or more for Ralph Lauren? Is he Is he a designer or an artistic director? I mean, when I saw the selling show, I thought that a lot of the pieces were desirable.
40:41I mean, a lot of it you can wear, you can see yourself, but there were many ideas, a lot of ideas. Maybe, in a way, too many ideas. Can I say that? He has a lot of, he has a lot of ideas. But you know, Prada was, was radical in its simplicity that season. I mean, it's one idea and I push it and I make it. Duff, you know, when you look, I was at the Tom Brown show and there is one big idea that he has been doing for ages, one feat. Michael has got many in his locker, many feats in his collections, many different. if you look at the pants pants make a brand pants make a silhouette and it does the skinny it does the huge it does low rise it does high rise it's very attractive very commercial but it shows it is where we are eating brands being a bit safer making good clothes rather than create words that can attract a small click of people, but also exclude a lot of people.
41:58It's a question. It's nice to, it's interesting to see how everything is evolving nowadays because the industry is in crisis and people try and find solutions. I think selling will do well in terms of commercial success. It's, it's a little bit well, but is it going to be as striking as Loewe's Jonathan Anderson or as Demna's Balenciaga. I'm curious to see how it turns out. Is there a Michael Ryder silhouette now? Is there one? A lot of good points. I think one thing to think about is, I mean, Jonathan is so singular that Loewe had no identity and he gave it an identity. And that's like when you think about his Dior, no matter what you think, there's a lot to think about.
42:54Like, even if you don't like it, like I could think about it for, I do. I think about it for hours a week. I try not at night, but you know, it's these late nights in Paris. It's starting to seep in. I think the two things about Celine. One is Celine as a brand. Like I made a joke about it being soulless, but it is, and you, you, you're French, you know, more than me, but like, it's a bourgeois brand that like, didn't really have any. It's bourgeois, right? Like, it's like, I remember, do you know Alice Pfeiffer? So once years ago, I wasn't invited to a Celine show and they, this is like 2011 and she got me a photographer pass and she's like, it doesn't even matter.
43:45This is just like a bourgeois brand. It is not a thing. Like it was in the seventies. It's like, Oh, like who would wear that? Like you, why do you want to? And I went and I sat in the photographer's pit. It was worth it to, I think it was my second, my first Phoebe show. But, um, but the point being that like, it's not, it doesn't have an look, Dior doesn't really have a lot of depth either. And that is part of the reason it has like 10 years of amazingness, But like, it's not Chanel, like it doesn't have or even Lomban or something like it. Celine doesn't have a lot of history. And I think the reason why it's worked with all three of those designers is because they understood that it was for selling clothes.
44:26And and Phoebe, Hedy, Michael, there are people who bought across all those designers. And that's incredible. You know, like not maybe Hedy is a little bit out of it. You would say Michael is how do you compare him to Phoebe and Hedy? if you had to rank you know where i think to me michael i mean phoebe is phoebe phoebe is the choco chanel of our generation when you say like what are you going to wear one brand forever it's a designer of one of these brands asked me if you had all the money in the world what would you wear and i was like vintage and phoebe like which is basically what i wear already like it's not and and Charvet yeah yeah um but but like there isn't Phoebe is is unique I think the thing that Michael I made a joke and maybe it's a little off color but like for us by us like it's every all of you all of the snobby Frenchies love it like all of everyone in Europe loves it even more than they love the Chanel because it's like it's about personal style it is like Letiquette on the runway.
45:38And, but I think, and I think he is the ultimate modern creative director. When you talk about what Luca DeMeo wants, that Michael is doing that. Michael has, it has personality, it has soul, it has style, it has flair, but it is also not complicated in any way. I think the silhouette thing is a good question. I think it will be about a feeling. And then also one interesting thing about it, I have a friend who's a CMO and we have totally different style and have totally different. Every single show, we never agree. Like she'll be like, well, you like that? And she just, she's from LA. We just very different.
46:27She went to Celine and bought pants, trousers. And that to me, I was like, okay, this is going to work because if she likes it, and I like it. But I think it's a good question. Is Michael like Jonathan and gonna make us feel uncomfortable and confused and also happy and elated? No, but every person who went to that show was like, that's my look, that's my look. And I think it's very modern. And he also knows how to work within these corporate organizations, which is really, really hard. I wonder whether we can say that in a time of crisis, fashion cannot be challenging. I mean, it makes sense in a way.
47:18I mean, if I am a CEO, do I want a challenging designer? Or do I want someone who doesn't exclude, that has a bit of everything for everyone, that can be styled with vintage, with Zara, someone yeah it's a it's a good question and what I like about Michael Ryder is also the way he because when you compare him to Eddie Slimane both on the designs and the way they approach fashion and their personality it's so the difference is so striking I mean Eddie pushes has been pushing for ages one look one ID Michael has several Eddie is like a star designer creative director isolated from the rest of the team Michael is very much in being very human very talkative, very close to his teams so obviously that makes him, there is something with Michael right there that goes, when you work in that industry, that goes even further than the clothes I mean, you want to wear his clothes because you feel he designs for you and you want to have dinner with him in a way.
48:37That's totally. Yeah. I mean, it's funny because when you talk to him, I mean, it will express things that we maybe think about the industry we work on. You do want sometimes you wonder, do you, am I right to love fashion? Am I, am I, is it normal? Should I hate it? should I hate that industry? And what's making Michael a very likable character that I think, maybe, I mean, we should ask him, but maybe that kind of question goes through his mind, that he's part of it, but also he doesn't agree with everything that he sees, that maybe AVMH does, having talked to him. um no it's it's an interesting character position and concept in in the industry nowadays you um yeah it's interesting yeah i think he's very millennial millennial i think we're the same age and he's around our age too like we're all around 43 44 he is a typical millennial in that he's a company man and he wants to make money, but he also like questions it.
49:54And I think that's, he knows how to work within the system. And he also does not seem to have, um, it's not about him. And, and that is, it is about him, but it's not. And that's kind of what we are all like, like, it's like, it's not about us, but it is. And, and whereas like there are other generations where it's totally about the person and not. And I think Jonathan is grappling with this in a different way. Like it has been about him so much because he was made a genius, but he also understands that he needs to work in the system. And Demna, same thing. Like I'm at the caring investor day with Demna, who's like talking to Luca Soka.
50:39And these are things that can you imagine John Galliano talking to Luca Soka? No. so or even Alessandro to be honest like there is something about all of us that we're all like we know we have if we want to make money and enjoy our lives we have to work but there is also a I'm only going to work within the system so I can try to subvert it to an extent but it's a tricky time and I think the thing I wrote and maybe they'll edit it is like he Michael is sort of the the creative director for our time, like of this, this tricky time in the world where, and everything's uncertain and the industry's consolidated and it's going to start to decline and, and people just want to feel good.
51:28And you could say that Matt too is actually that because he, but I think in terms of like within, within the ecosystem of these brands that aren't, it's not Chanel. Like Michael is, and it's going to work. it will work. Yeah. And I think when you mentioned the Reese thing, I'm really sad not to be in Paris. A, because I didn't get to go to the show, but also because the Reese was so great last season. What he, one thing he does very well is create Instagram images without, I mean, the Reese's are great Instagram images when you look at the way they set up the clothes. It's so perfect for a story format on your Instagram page is very good at that too.
52:16And yeah, I do wonder whether there is still room for what we call a genius in fashion. I mean, obviously Jonathan can pretend, can say he's one and there are arguments to say that he's one. I mean. I think what kind of genius he is is the question. Yeah. I think he is, but I think it's like more about the psychological way he is able to manage all of that stuff and less about the design itself. Even Matthew Blassie, when you think of it, I place him in a category close in a way to Michael. He went in a brand with more of an history and an aesthetic than Celine. He's playing with it. He's managing the marketing demand, the commercial demands.
53:06is marketing a team of people that has become very big in a few weeks without breaking the mold, without reinventing the wheel. But he's a great designer doing it in a balanced way and being friendly with very everyone. And I think that's a new model. It's quite at ease with the fact that those people, the kind of profile of designers are being success and are being hired. So yeah, maybe it's something new and different. Yeah, I agree. I think you hit the nail on the head with that. What else did you see at the showrooms and things? Was there anything that like one other brand that really stood out to you that wasn't a runway show or being at the showroom made you think about it differently?
53:58What did I? I liked Andris, obviously, which was a show. It's really nice. Yeah, it is nice. And in a way, the example of a tradition that is being handled very well, going from Andris to Julian Klassner, of course. What else did I see that I liked? What do you think of our legacy? Oh yeah, I went to our legacy. I think our legacy is doing a good job, a very good job. I mean, it's balanced. There is something to it. It's not nothing. I mean, there is an identity. you obviously have images in mind when you think of the brand, you think of the canyon boots, you think of black you think of faded plaids you think of the zipper orientated shirts I think they are smart in digging into subcultures but not making excluding to people they digest it in a proper way you don't feel that very much I've started investing in them you don't feel like they are pushing the brand too much, too quick too mainstream I think it's balanced I think I can see I mean they have a community I mean which is which is quite impressive no no i think they do well i mean i can now that you asked me about the showroom that i saw and like i mean i like obviously these japanese brands like a press um coherence which is a small um tailoring based brand but yeah our legacy is good yeah it's uh i think they are quite preceding the references at the gates but uh they digest it very well and I think they're doing well.
56:15Yeah, it's an interesting, I really liked the imagery that they released and again I had to leave so I could not go to see it but I just find the classic stuff and the runway to be so separate and that I don't know someone said that they have like there's one guy who's like very classic and the other guy is more the runway and they work well together but it's very separate And I wonder long term, because going to the store, we went in Berlin. I was like, this is not for me in any way. But I think that, I don't know. It's interesting. I feel like they have a lot of potential. I really like that brand MF Penn also, which feels like of that.
57:00And that guy seems, I met him at the LVMH Prize. He seems like super wants to do well and aggressive and ambitious. And so I think there's something in that world of like, maybe our legacy can not mess up where acne messed up or something. You think acne messed up? Yeah. I was thinking about it. I think so. Because I went to the acne paper thing and I was talking to someone who does some work for them. And I said, you know, I really stopped paying attention when he said in a press thing like 10 years ago that he wanted to be the Swedish Prada. And I was like, I can't deal with this anymore. And I've seen like they were trying to raise money and I'm sure they did before the like at the beginning of the pandemic or right before.
57:51And I remember seeing their fundraising deck and it was such like, I bought all my jeans there for so long. And, and the, even the smiley face when it got more mass, like it still made a lot of sense. And I think like, if you look at an Ami, which has done a pretty good job managing the mass, the mass, you know, proliferating or whatever. And then also whether you like it or not, like, I think they've done a good job with it or like in our legacy, which is more of the same lineage of, of, uh, and, and I just think like acne, could it have been the next product? No, but it could, it have been something where like we were still shopping there.
58:34Yes. And I don't, I think it's a, it's a little, I was, I, the, I'm, I'm a little disappointed in it and don't really know. I think I've gone a bit too far in the fashion search in being extreme and being in creating attention. At some point, because I'm obviously wear suits a lot. And when. Not last week. No, thankfully. but when uh when some guy would would be asking 10 years ago for a coach i mean and you don't want to go bespoke of course because it's long and too expensive you you would direct him to to acne because they would make a good navy overcoat and you wouldn't do it that way nowadays you would push it to maybe orally or somewhere else but yeah i mean so it's yeah they've gone probably a bit too far in being fashion.
59:36Yeah. Okay. Let's talk a bit about Letiquette. Yes. And also explain how you came to be, because I didn't know anything about you before a few months ago. I just knew that you were the editor of Letiquette and that you had this column in this French paper where you wrote about wearing sweaters over your shoulder. So Every week. You have an interesting background. And also you're famous in France because you're on TV every week. Yes. A small fame, but still. No, so I'm very much of a journalist. So I always define myself as being a journalist. I started as a sports football writer 20 years back now at L 'Equipe France Football, which are the biggest sports titles in French and wear at the time.
1:00:33But I have always been fascinated with subcultures. So my teenage passions were football, music and fashion, obviously, style. So even when I was working on sports, I would write and think about clothing. I did a lot of texts and articles for the French GQ when it was released. I wrote, when I was studying, a big memory, a big text on the way rock stars have been wearing ties over the years, from Kurt Cobain wearing a Brooks Vosso tie on the cover of his Best Of album to Buddy Oli to Sid Vicious wearing a leather tie. you know, I think he, I mean, in an SM way. So I wrote a lot about that. And what really my thing with clothes is, was to start with the subcultures.
1:01:34So I was dressed as a mod when I was 20. I was into ties, double bristed suits. I had the hair going on my forehead, which was quite bad. but so I have always linked clothes to music mostly but also movies sports culture etc so it's not I'm not a runaway guy in a sense that I didn't look at Vogue as I look at NME magazine or as at Les Arrocs Uptible music magazine when I was a teenager or when I was 20 so I worked in sports. Then we launched, we created a media group called Sopresse, where we created a football magazine, then a news magazine that I ran for a few years, even a movie magazine. And on the side, I wrote about closing for, I started writing about closing for GQ.
1:02:39Then Le Monde offered me a column. Then I went on TV, the biggest late show in France, which is called Quotidien, talking weekly about the way people dress, going from the president to the people at the shows to people on the streets. So I have always, in a way, considered clothes to be a cultural object. To me, what you wear is as relevant as what you read, what you watch, what you listen to. Asmogaz is done in an independent and informed way. So over the years, I have done plenty of things. I have, I studied François Hollande when he was president for just a couple of hours. I went to, I saw him for two hours in his office when he was running France, which was a big failure for me as he's difficult to dress.
1:03:34I also, I mean, I was also chief editor for Holiday Magazine the first seven years. And is that how you ended up starting La Tiquette? Yeah, in a way, because we did, with Frank Durand, we did Holiday. And then I met also Gauthier Borsarello, who I work with. He's a friend and an art director, very much into vintage clothing. So at some point, I told Gauthier we should launch a menswear magazine, influenced in a way by Japanese magazine, but let's do it our way. So we created it with Frank and with Gauthier. and Frank was the art director of Letiticket also. So it was a bunch of people deciding to make a good menswear magazine because they just liked clothing, because they liked it, because they saw it as more than shopping.
1:04:29We don't do shopping. We do a lot, but we don't really like to world it that way. so that's how we ended the creative etiquette in 2018 and it has grown, it was supposed to be just one of your issue, it's now two we also have a women's issue we have the men's issue in French and also in English edition the women's issue we are starting the English edition in September so it's a nice little thing to do people like it thankfully I'm always very you know touched and moved when people talk to me about it and come to me and say I love it I want people to read the magazine not just the thing I hate is when people take a fashion magazine and browse through the pages like you know quickly and I see people doing it all the time that my solution to this is to put text in every pages.
1:05:34So you have fashion images, but there is text on it. So you don't, you don't browse for it. You read the image. Uh, that's I do a lot of Google translating when I'm looking soon. You will have it in English. It's okay. I need to learn French. So it's fine. So some people learn French with it and send us, um, reports of what they learn in the issue. Yeah, sometimes I know enough context that the English translation, I'm like, I know this isn't exactly what it means. But yeah, it's funny. So and Lolita Jacobs is your fashion director for the women's. She's super chic. She recommended my hair colorist.
1:06:15She said it's very intimate. That's chic.
1:06:20But to me, I love it. And all the American editors love it. it reminds me of, and you mentioned, it's not about shopping, which it's not like there, there's a lot. I love the, um, Caroline, uh, DeRoche Pasquier piece. And like, there's a lot of, you always, I, I was interviewed for a story you all did on skims. Like it's, it's basically like, it's an enthusiast magazine. There's, but it reminds me, I worked for this magazine in America. You're not going to like the comparison, but called Lucky Magazine, which was a magazine about shopping, but it was also based on Japanese magazines. And it was like the ultra, ultra Americanized commercial version of Lettiket.
1:07:06And, um, but I think what, what the, it was really about style and about, um, personal style. And I think one of the things, Hey, I love it. And every single time I read through it, I find a brand that I haven't heard of, or I think of a new, you use a lot of vintage and you mix it in with new, there was a pair of Hermes mules in the last issue, women's issue that I was like, those are Hermes. And I would, I would buy them. Like there's, there's always something and it feels useful, but it's still fun. It's just, it's not, it's, you're right. Like now you either, you, you read a magazine, like New York magazine or the New Yorker for the articles and you read, if you look at a fashion magazine, I'm not reading double or whatever you'd call it in French for the articles.
1:07:56No offense. Like I'm looking at the images and love it, but I'm not going to read the Q and A's that they have in there or whatever. Whereas what you're doing, I, all the like people, they, they shoot people on the street where it's, it's a real person and they're, and you tell the story of their outfit. I want to know who these people are and what they do. And I do use the translator or whatever. But I think one of the things that I like most about it is with the models, you use the same models throughout the issue. So like a model will be in one editorial and then 50 pages later in another one, you're like, oh, I just saw that woman.
1:08:38There were a bunch of in the recent women's issue, a bunch of pregnant women, like more than one, which I really like too. I don't know. It's quite simple. What we do is a lot when you look at the fashion is outfits that you can wear. We do outfits, we don't do images. So the pictures are simple, the white background is always there. And we explain what we do. It's not like we are fashion good and we We tell you it is this way, look at it, do it the same at your place. We explain it because it requires explanation. We can show something and tell people. You can also do it a bit differently. So we explain things.
1:09:29And what I like is the idea that we are the stylish friend of your band, of your group of friends. We are the one who is the most into clothes. And we just, why don't you try this thing? Maybe you should put your sweater over your shoulders. It's just give ideas to people, being enthusiastic, not having something that are very accessible, some more expensive, having diversity. It's crazy that being friendly is strange in the fashion world, but being nice to people, being cool, just relaxed. it's friendly but it's not stupid no and it's also not like it's it's about having taste like you're not there it has high standards so like it feels open but it also is like like it was funny I was reading Lolita's small column of what she's wearing because I bought it because I'm in New York and I was like oh I just need to get it because I needed something yesterday and she's like, I'm never wearing Capri pants.
1:10:42I just bought Capri pants and I was like, should I have not done that? No, I'm, I like mine, but, but, but it is, it, it has, there's, it has standards. And there is a sense of like, yes, you should care about this stuff. And I think the thing you said, I always bring this up a years ago, probably 20 years ago, I interviewed this woman, Robbie Myers, who was the editor in chief of American L for a long time. And she was like, I treat fashion the way all the other pillars of pop culture. And in America, it's really not like that. And I always think about this too. Like you can hide your taste in music or film or whatever, but you can't really hide your taste in clothing because, and it's, it makes people uncomfortable.
1:11:26And in America in particular, that is a, it's, it's a point of tension and a point of stressors. dressers. And I, so I have this one final question for you about a particular way of dressing, but yeah, I think that like, it's, um, it's the funny thing about Letta Kett is all I think about is like all the financial and commercial opportunities you probably have. And especially if you launched a U S edition, but we could, I know you're not going to do that, but we could talk offline. Cause I swear to God, like as an American, this is the first thing that would probably ruin it but it is like it just feels like so i'm so bad i'm so bad at it it's terrible i know but you know you know how many people have already asked me like yeah should i launch the american version oh really i mean yeah we'll we'll discuss it we'll discuss it let me know but i need some help on the on the financial side i'm so bad at it um if you if you want to um Give Mark money.
1:12:29Yes, please. I beg for you. You're probably going to get. Yeah. Yeah. Okay. So this is my last question because we already, usually this is an hour. It's almost two, but this was really fun. Okay. I am in New York. Immediately. The first thing I do in New York, I am having, I'm dealing with some stuff and trying to distract myself. I'm like, I need to buy new leggings. Okay. Because I go to this Legree class in Paris and I need better leggings, but I am not buying leggings in Europe. My question for you is. Okay. Someone was like, don't you have aloe in Paris? I'm like, sure, but it's going to be more expensive.
1:13:08Also, I tried to go to aloe and the line was, the queue was so long. I was like, fuck this. I'm not going to go. Like I didn't, I haven't bought any. But the point being, I think there's, I have a piece on Tuesday about like, there's still just a lot of opportunity. But in America, people just wear leggings all the time. Like on, I wore on Sunday, I went to Pilates at 9.30 a.m. And I wore them with, and I wore a big t-shirt and I, and Keds. And I ended up wearing them all day. Like if I had gone to a restaurant for lunch, I would not do that. But there are many people who do. And every person I ran into was dressed.
1:13:53This is New York City. Very informally. In Paris, you could not do that. Like I take my leggings to Pilates and I change. I would never do that. I'm curious from your perspective, though. are you noticing the casualization of the u.s and the uk has it become more casual as someone who likes wearing suiting who was a mod who was all that stuff like are you noticing that people are becoming more casual in paris as well or do you think that it it will not happen there to the extent that it is here because you go to san diego here and you're not going to see anyone in anything but elastic pants, like not even jeans.
1:14:40It's funny because a couple of days ago, a friend of mine, a girlfriend of mine, she sent me a picture of a girl she took on the streets and the girl was wearing aloe, from what I gather. And she told me, it's crazy. That girl, and I have seen a few like these, are going out in the city in Bratia. I mean, I don't know how you call it. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Like a sports bra. Yeah, a sports bra. A cropped sports bra. Plus leggings. And she told me, write about it in Le Mans. So we don't, we cannot do that. So it shocks people. I think you should write about it. Yeah. So the tricky part, the tricky part is as always, can I as a man, the white man in his 40s, tell the girls how to dress?
1:15:36I think maybe you can and just expect to get a lot of hate. I don't know. I think it's interesting. Whether or not you think it's appropriate is not my question. Yeah, of course. My question is, do you think it's because when I go to this class, Lagrinus, Jade, shout out to Jade, my instructor there, it's extremely hard. It's like the only hard workout class I've ever found in Paris. Sometimes the girls wear like tennis skirts. Okay. Like, like I, a lot of them have sets on it. It's a lot of Americans or, or Dutch or whatever. Like a lot of not French people there. And it is a very, like, if you're going to wear sporty and rich, these people know what sporty and rich is.
1:16:27But I am curious, like, just do you think, because I think about the last time we spent a good chunk of time in Paris in 2019. And like, I remember I was a big runner at the time and showing up for breakfast after a run and like feeling uncomfortable in my leggings. I think now it would be a little more accepted. But do you think, do you think that it will just move towards that where, because in America, like, I think you would be a little appalled. Like, I'm appalled. I just can't believe that people, it's, and yes, I mean, I did it yesterday, but I still, like, I had kids on and I had on, like, a funny shirt.
1:17:12Like, I tried a little bit, like, and I didn't mean to. It just turned out that I never ended up going back to the apartment to change. I remember probably 10 years ago, Karl Lagerfeld said in France, the sentence is well known. And he said, wearing a tracksuit is giving up on life. When you give up, you wear tracksuits. I don't know if you could say that anymore nowadays. It has become, yeah, I think there is a causalization of the way people dress. even in Paris, we probably start from an higher standard than in the US. Obviously, we dress a bit better than you do. Well, a bit more. But we can also say that we are always a bit late on the trends.
1:18:06So I think we'll reach a point where we dress the way you do, the way you do currently, the Americans. um if you would say that there is a it's a trend it's a way of showing the work of the result of your sports work through your body for girls i think that's part of it but i also think it's a comfort thing yeah and it's just this idea of like people never the thing i said to someone recently is it's not like in 1950s in the 1950s when teenagers started wearing jeans in high school that we ever went back. Like it's never going to go back to like a suit. Suiting is trendy right now and like people are wearing suits, but it's never going to be that a guy has to wear a suit every single day to work anymore.
1:19:00Like it's just not ever going to go back. But I think, I don't know, it's a strange, it's an interesting thing because what people in Europe have is like that you're you grow up like it's okay to be enthusiastic about clothing yeah and and not just as a status yeah whereas in america it's only status that's that's it um it sums up what we said to me and probably to some people in paris and and dressing is expressing in a visual way in a very you know accessible tangible way your culture what you i mean what when i dress i hope people can guess what i listen to what music i like what readers i write i read sorry or movies i like it's so to me um not dressing i mean dressing in purely comfort clothes or clothes that only cover myself is I hate the idea.
1:20:14It's having no culture. It's like, you know, you don't impress, you don't express anything for your clothes and I think clothes I meant to express something. Okay, to be continued. This is great, Mark. Thank you for being here. Thanks a lot, Lauren. It was a big pleasure for me. It was so fun. We'll have you back again. Yeah, okay. Thanks a lot. It's a pleasure. And see you in Paris. Thank you. See you soon. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. The show is produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to Puck co-founder John Kelly, executive editor Ben Landy, producer Maya Tribbett, and director of editorial operations Gabi Grossman.
1:20:53An additional thanks to the team at Odyssey, Kelly Turner and Bob Tabador.
From the publisher
Lauren’s guest is Marc Beaugé, editor-in-chief and co-founder of every fashion person’s favorite magazine, L'Etiquette. They discuss the men’s shows in Milan and Paris—specifically, Prada, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Celine, plus Dries Van Noten and Ralph Lauren—the genius of Charlotte Collet, the prospects of Kering’s C.E.O. Luca de Meo, Michael Rider, Jonathan Anderson, Demna, miniskirts, athleisure, why everyone was freaking out about the heat in Paris, why there’s so much hugging at Men’s Fashion Week, and plenty more.
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