At the Oscars, Old Dresses and New Teeth

0:28Hello and welcome to Fashion People. for the next two weeks. First for 10 days of shows and the surrounding hoopla and then for lots and lots of meetings, which I'll be doing a lot of those the whole time. I hope to see you. I love being in Europe because it's just a lot easier to do my job or at least parts of my job. I did miss being in Los Angeles this past week and getting all the Oscar gossip. This week in line sheet, I wrap up the rest of Milan, share some thoughts on Saturday's ballet show as the company prepares for Simone Bellate's now inevitable exit. And I also have some info on executive changes set to take place within LVMH, including new jobs for two of the Arnaud kids.

1:13You know, this stuff is supposed to take place like six months from now. So let's see. Let's see how it all actually shakes out. But this is what people are within the business are saying at the moment. Sarah Shapiro, shapiro at puck.news, if you want to email her, also has an interview with the team behind Doa and one of the rare American brands that is convincing enough to work on Europeans. They have a big presence in Paris. And also I think their first wholesale account or one of their first was Net-A-Porter and I think that helped as well. Be sure to check that all out and more and let's get going with Hillary.

1:55Hilary Kerr, welcome back to Fashion People. It is my pleasure to be here. I love your podcast almost as much as I love the line sheets. So this is just a pleasure and a half to be here. Well, I love you. So I am glad that you're here. And vice versa. So you, we were just chatting pre-recording. You've been prepping. Yes, I love red carpet season. I probably should award season. I probably shouldn't be in the team slack coming up with details and throwing things into the Google sheets that we use when we're reporting on red carpets. I'm sure my teams would appreciate it if I'd stop doing that.

2:38But at the same time, I care so much and I will be that weird person who's like forensically tracking down the number of carrots in the Bulgari necklace. I just I am once a nerd, always a nerd when it comes to these details. This is why you're good at your job. And last week before the show, you and Dan Constable from UTA hosted a sort of pre Oscars party for dinner for all the fashion people who were in town, right, who couldn't go to the Prada show. Yes. Well, it was a really amazing night because, you know, when you've worked in this industry for so long, you realize there are certain people who don't necessarily, who make, have a ton of work and make our key decision makers, but maybe don't always get their flowers.

3:21And chief among them are the fashion PR teams at these major brands. Like as much as the celebrity stylist, they're the ones who are making these red carpet looks happen. They are connecting the stylist with the designer. They are making those introductions. They often are seeing the films before the rest of the world and saying like, oh, that Ruth Nega film is going to do an amazing job. Oh, we should introduce Carla and Pierpolo at the time and like forming those relationships. So to have all of these teams in town from Europe, from New York, and then the LA teams all in one place was so fun.

3:59And then we had a ton of celebrity stylists who came as well. And it was really remarkable to see, you know, one table sitting there. It's like the PRs from Fuiton and from Schiaparelli and all of these different and Loewe all coming in Saint Laurent all coming together and having you know pasta carbs before the red carpet and helping us raise a little bit of money um for LA wildfire relief and you know everyone getting together and swapping tables and drinking wine it was it was a really lovely evening Dan Constable gets all of the credit because that man was like creating invitations while on a plane to Milan and then coming back.

4:40I've never seen something come together so quickly. And to have that kind of turnout was pretty outrageous. We missed you though. I am really sad I missed it, even though I was happy. I got to go to the Prada show. But what I will say is that this is how these contracts, people want to know how these contracts get done. They get done by the publicist, the personal stylist, well, not the celebrity stylist. I am personal stylist, the agents, the managers, like this is how the contracts get done. And the one thing I think I learned moving out to LA that I didn't really realize was how deeply involved the publicists were in the process more than just like matching up a celebrity with a brand.

5:28They are part of the strategy and it's, and you're right. They, they don't get any credit. So shout out to all of them. They don't want their names ever published, but they're all fabulous and really do incredible work. And let's be honest. They're also the keeper of all of the secrets. Those teams have seen things that I am not allowed to repeat, but oh my goodness, they know all. So like really, I feel like it's in everyone's best interest to bow down to the celebrity VIP teams. That is true. So let's break down what they did last night and how they succeeded or failed. I mean. So what was your overall feeling about Oscars 2025 red carpet?

6:19So I think that I always try and look at it from two different perspectives. the civilian in me and then also like the long-term fashion editor so from i think the civilian in me would not have understood some of the things that were on the red carpet would be absolutely perplexed by them the fashion editor in me was thrilled especially to see some of the after party looks but even the red carpet looks like we saw sculptural moments the likes of which we don't usually see. We saw there was, I always prefer it when there's a little bit more color myself on the red carpet, but we saw so much interesting texture and embellishment and beading and design.

7:03And it just felt like a lot of people got the same memo one and two it, to me, it was a much more interesting red carpet than some of the like classic jewel tone, strapless mermaid gown that we've seen a hundred thousand times. Like this was a little bit wilder and I really liked it. Plus a fair amount of vintage as well, which is always nice to see. Yeah, I, I mostly agree. I think there are two things on, on the sort of downside, my, the, the negatives of my assessment are that there was way too much just sequins. And there's this, this idea of wearing like a fitted dress with a bunch of sequence on it has been a thing for the last few years in informal gowns, regardless.

7:54And I had Kate young on probably last summer. And she was talking about this, like she, you go to a brand and all they have is like a silver sequined dress. There were a lot of those again. I think right now there's a huge emphasis on body and being fit. And so there's a desire to want to show that off. And a good way to show that off is through a sequin dress that is form-fitting or what have you. But it feels like an evolution from the naked dress, which we were seeing a lot of for so many years where it's like, it's not like, I feel like the even more intense version of that is like, we're going to have that sequin, that bedazzled dress, but with nothing on underneath it.

8:35And we've seen a lot of that over the years as well. Yes. Yes. And I would also say that everything fit better this year. Yeah. There was a there that something has happened that the celebrities realize or their teams or whatever, they finally are starting to realize this is how we need to make it work. So it looks good being photographed. I'm sure they were thinking about that previously, but it feels like something clicked and there weren't usually you see the right and you're like, oh, that didn't fit her at the top. Like there are a couple of things like that. But generally, I thought even in the men's clothes, the men's stuff, which the men really took a lot of risk, which I loved.

9:17I just thought everything like sort of fit like the tailors were working overtime. And I appreciated that. I also wish there was more color. I just love I love Michelle Yeo in Balenciaga. It was like a royal blue Duchess satin color is where you can, it was just like a pretty, I mean, it was beautifully done and draped in all of that, but it wasn't like such an out of the ordinary dress, but the color gave it a bit of strangeness. And I really, I love that in particular. Same thing with Timmy and butter yellow leather. Like is the look revolutionary? not really it's still just pants and a jacket but at the same time at least like you saw that panning of the full audience and your eye went straight to that fresh out of the gate Sarah Burton Givenchy look and it's like I love that I could ID him at a thousand paces it reminded me a little bit about what Elizabeth Holmes always writes about with the royals about them dressing in color so that you could see them at a distance like easily identifiable and I was like we and I know it was a nod to a classic Bob Dylan look.

10:25So like, I love all of the backstory to that, but I mean, seeing that or Coleman Domingo and Valentino and that red was so phenomenal. I mean, look, I'm also like my favorite all time Oscars look is Nicole Kidman in that incredible chartreuse. I think it was Dior dress from the nineties, 1997. I want to say like, that's what my personal taste standard is. Like, give me something like a shocking color with like a a thoughtful element. So did we see that as much? No, but we saw still there was enough that was interesting this time around. And certainly I was like, yeah, the men brought it too. Yeah.

11:01Let's talk about the guys for a minute. You mentioned Coleman Domingo and Timote Chalamet. That's how I really think that's how you pronounce it. Anyway, first of all, this kid has so much style. It's crazy. I loved it. I was trying to go to sleep because I had to get up very early this morning and was already late. And I was just like, damn, this kid has it. Did you see his little baby, like a Cartier bracelet and watch? Like he has so much swag. And then like a bejeweled Cartier necklace. I mean, I, there's Complex had this amazing picture of just his wrist. And it's like to see the mini watch with the bangles.

11:43It's like this guy is going for it. It is so fun. So much personality across the board. Like clearly, I think that we've seen so many like homogenized, like very boring, safe things. So then to see this, just, he just felt like a breath of fresh air the whole campaign through. Totally. He looked, and he looked great at the VF party in Heider Ackerman's Tom Ford. I thought that was gorgeous as well. Coleman always, he was wearing Valentino. He always, he is sort of the gold standard. He has incredible style. It looks like him. It always fits super well. And he's devastatingly handsome. He's very handsome.

12:24He doesn't look crazy wearing prints. He looks he really wears the clothes. Yeah. And so I thought that was Jeremy Strong in Laura Piana. Yeah. I bow. It was so good. It was so good. He's he's there wasn't really I'm trying to think of one. I thought Sebastian Stan in Prada, it was like his shirt was an off white and his tie was a little loose. I love that. It all looked great. And usually I'm like very traditional. I like a guy in a nice suit and I still like that. But, but I thought that Sean Baker in custom Dior, which was like a really standard suit, the style by our friend, Rebecca Ramsey.

13:09Congrats to Rebecca. She's excellent. She's so good. But she has such an interesting roster. She only works like cool, creative people who do amazing shit. So I'm so happy for her. And he looked really handsome. And it was like just a great tux that fit him well. Yeah. I love Jeff Goldblum in Prada. Always. He's one of my favorites. I just think he has so he's he looks like he's actually having fun, which you just don't see that very often. And it makes me really happy.

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14:17You know who else I thought looked really nice? Who apparently everybody is goo-goo over, is Andrew Garfield at the party. I think he was wearing Gucci at both, but at the Vanity Fair party he had on gray, like head-to-toe gray Gucci, and I thought he looked really great as well. How do you feel about men wearing sunglasses on the red carpet? Was he wearing them? Yes. I'm not into, no, it's silly. I don't like that kind of stuff, but whatever. I didn't notice. I just thought that the clothes look great. I don't mind, but I, for most things, I am a little bit of a traditionalist when it comes to the Oscar red carpet.

14:57It's the only time where I feel like you need to be just a smidge more traditional. And for me, that was the only, like the look overall was phenomenal. The sunglasses on the red carpet, I'm like, do we, must we? That's the one. It's the one time. Yeah. Yeah. If that feels a little silly, the other question for you is broach or no broach. So the broach thing happened. I mean, there needs to be some play on words because it's like the bro broach, the broach. I don't know how you would spell that on GQ.com, but maybe Sam high notes. This happened a while ago, like at least Emmys, right? Or last year.

15:40He started putting like a Tiffany brooch on Jeremy Allen. White was one of the first big moments when we saw it. And then it has been off to the races. It feels like ever since. I will say, I think I'm, I'm out. I'm, I'm done. Like you think of something else. That's the thing about. They don't have that many places for flair though. Lauren, let them have a tiny bit of flair. Sure. I'm let them get the money that they'll get when they get the diamond contract. But, but I thought, did Joel, Jeff Goldblum have on a brooch? I don't think so. He had on that beautiful, like lavender scarf. I was super into the scarf and a printed top, an off white jacket and this scarf.

16:26It's fine. I just think the guys that I liked weren't wearing, maybe Sebastian Stan was wearing a brooch. I didn't even notice, but it, but it is, I, I got some DMs, people asking what I think. And I said, I've already passed the brooch. I've already processed the brooch. I never mind a fine jewelry moment on the red carpet. I am a magpie. I am a crow. I just want to see shiny things, glittery things. I love stones. I feel like there are so few opportunities for men to, although men are doing better with accessorizing, generally speaking, lately, and there's been more man jewelry. But I just, I don't know.

17:04I'm all for it because it's a little bit of personality. It's a little bit of flair. It's just another detail. And I get so bored by seeing the same classic tasteful tux over and over again. I'd rather see something that's just even like slightly questionable or maybe a little overdone because it's just more interesting to me. Otherwise, they all look the same. You know what else was interesting, I thought, this season? The big brands always flood the market. They'll have, you know, 10 or 15 major people that they dress. And a lot of them did that this season, but I thought the brands that really stood out were Givenchy, not only with Timote, but also with Elle Fanning, which was also Sarah Burton and just gorgeous.

17:57And I wrote in line sheet on Monday, I think Elle Fanning and Samantha McMillan are just maybe the best stylist star duo working right now or, or rising up. They, they really, Elle has incredible personal style and there's so many things. She wore a Balmain dress that had like a leopard. Yeah. Leopard print bra top recently that that sounds, that doesn't sound good when I say leopard print bra top, but Google Elle Fanning Balmain. This dress was gorgeous. She has amazing personal style. I thought that the white lace dress and the sort of cape back was just so beautiful. I thought she looked fantastic.

18:38It's a black bow done right as well. I found the neckline, the neckline is not like my personal high point because I think it can be a little bit when there's that like semi sweetheart aspect to it. I think it's a, it reads a little juvenile personally. That is my only critique of the look overall. And that's just my own personal bugaboo. I think she looked flawless and I really liked her Vanity Fair look as well. Yes. I loved it. I love the black with red. It was so red were great. Yeah. I think the, I would have not done the shoes. I would have done black shoes, not red shoes, but I thought the red sash was, was so gorgeous.

19:20Not, not that Samantha the Macmillan needs my notes. The other brand needs mine. We're just talking. We're just, we're just chatting. Either the other one that I thought was, I thought Balenciaga a lot. I thought Rachel Senate, including the face she was making in all the photos. I thought she looked great. A lot of the Balenciaga people, Kim Kardashian looked beautiful. I thought she looked great. I thought Saint Laurent did a killer job. the Zoe's, both Zoe's Zoe Saldana and then Zoe Kravitz cheeky moment. Yeah. With her little rear peeking out from the back and never have I been more jealous.

20:05I also, I love a prim from the front sassy in the back moment in general. Like I liked Margaret quality where it's like, you can see the necklace in the back and then the front looks sort of like severe or simple. And then you around and all of a sudden there's a plunging back, there's a beautiful dress moment, or there's a little bit of cheeky bum in the case of Zoe Kravitz. I thought it was great. It made me very happy. I thought it was lovely. It felt fresh. And I mean that in a number of ways, cheeky. And I mean that also in a number of ways, but it just felt like young and fun. And also she's always sort of pushing things a little bit.

20:40And that feels right for her. Totally. Both of those and also the Hailey Bieber Saint Laurent dress, they all felt like they were beautiful. They made the women look good, but they were also really fashion. And that was very refreshing. Sarah Paulson in Mark Jacobs fashion, which was also another major moment. Or I also, I have to say, like, I really loved what our Wicked Ladies did. I loved the Schiaparelli gown, especially considering how, like, they made it even more special by adding all of those additional. I know you're not as much team embellishment as I am, but all of those embellishments on the skirt of it.

21:22And I also thought Cynthia Erivo looked absolutely stunning. I love the dress that Jason Bolden had this idea of this nod to Hattie McDaniels, which I think is such a lovely idea. And to see her in that super dark green Vuitton dress. I just, I, again, it was such a stunning moment and I love that. And going back to brands, the Vivian Westwood moment for her performance, phenomenal. Like I love a vintage Vivian Westwood moment. Like that also. And the same thing. I also loved the Schiaparelli, you know, not everyone loves like the literalness of the red shoe on Ariana's back, but I thought it was stunning, thoughtful, interesting, and a little playful, which is also something I love.

22:06I thought it was the best Ariana has looked this entire ride. And she's looked great. And Cynthia Evo has amazing style and always, she mostly wears Louis Vuitton, but really wears it well. And they choose the right things because Louis Vuitton dresses many, many people. And sometimes it's not, you know, it's always a mixed bag for all these brands. But I think with her, they all, they tend to, she's the right match for that brand. I thought I loved I love that green velvet as well. And the champagne Schiaparelli straight off the runway was it was the platonic ideal of an Oscars dress. Yeah. And also an Oscars dress and what she should be wearing.

22:52And and I'm I'm pro embellishment when it makes sense. And I think in that case, it really makes it.

23:04So let's talk about Mikey. Yes So I This is my feeling about it I think That Jamie Mizrahi Does the best job When she is Dressing women Who like to be dressed In classic clothes I think Adele Is her sort of Masterpiece And she She's done a great job With Jennifer Lawrence To someone who has had Many stylists And I think Has finally Sort of figured it out And The same with Mikey You can tell this is not a person who, you know, obviously, and Nora's a very, I guess you could say it's a very edgy movie. I keep calling it our generations, my cousin Vinny, but whatever. I loved it. It was my favorite movie of the year and deserved everything.

23:51Not Challengers? Ma 'am. I did love Challengers, but. I know. I really loved. You know what? They were robbed with the soundtrack, though. You know, the score. That was the best. I mean, I'm sure your husband, Jonathan, also agrees that I cannot believe they were not even nominated. I know. I was extremely offended by that. Anyway, I thought Mikey looked great. And the color was right. The idea was right. It wasn't my favorite thing she's worn, is how I would put it. It wasn't. And the same thing for Demi Moore, who was her competitor and best actress. she's looked incredible this entire run and has looked really really good in particular in Schiaparelli but always and she wore Armani last night and silver she looked beautiful and amazing neither of those dresses were my favorite things that they've worn on this on this tour I would well I think one thing that has been interesting for me watching Mikey is that it feels like there's interesting storytelling that we're seeing through these campaigns right I feel like Andrew and what he did with Margot Robbie for Barbie has like reset the level of how folks dress for a campaign.

25:07And then you see varying degrees of it. So there have been clear color thematic moments for Ariana and Cynthia throughout this entire Wicked press tour, which by the way, I'm going to be very interested to see how this goes for Wicked part two when it comes out. Are we going to keep this going? Are we going to change things up? I think there you look at what Brad Gresge did with Demi Moore. And there's so much interesting thoughtfulness. It's a subtler take on the substance and nods to that character throughout this campaign season. And then there's Mikey where it feels like it's been interesting to see if like the sex worker character and then a very like old Hollywood glam throughout the course of this campaign, which obviously was something that they settled on.

25:55But I kept thinking where it's like, I loved how she looked. I loved, I personally, old Hollywood glam is sort of like my fondest spot, but I think I personally loved the Vanity Fair dress more. Yes. The black with those sort of plunging V neckline. Who was it? That was both were archival based on archival Christian Dior. One was find this exactly because I wrote it down because I thought it was so cool. So the black dress was from the fall winter 1956 1957 couture show with a shawl which I'm just like dear lord that is all kinds of incredible, to put it mildly. Yes, I agree. I thought she also looks great in black, which not everybody does, but she's very fair and has dark hair and looks fabulous in black for whatever reason.

27:01Her coloring or, and I thought the pink, the pink also reminded me, it was a very different dress, but of the Gwyneth Paltrow Shakespeare and Love Ralph Lauren dress. this arguably fit Mikey better than the Gwyneth Paltrow dress fit Gwyneth. But I love the way it fit, even though it didn't fit. It's burned in my brain as the most, the prettiest girl in the world. But anyway, yeah, I agree. And I also think she also reads very young to me. So she is, she's 25, but there are 25 year olds who are wearing filler. Yeah. And that's one thing I really noticed. And this is not new, but it's just, again, like, and you don't want to judge people.

27:47They're under so much pressure, but there just is a lot of augmentation in, in a way that is what's real and what's, um, what's attractive. What's is, is realness attractive is the augmentation, what people are attracted to now. there's a lot of like armchair psychology you could do just by looking at the same thing with the SNL. It's kind of like it dovetails the SNL special, which the whole time all I could think about was how old everyone was and how much work they've had done. So I think that for me, it's I miss realty. I'll just come out and say, I think that we are in an over veneer situation.

28:36yes um i think that seeing the reaction to white lotus and an overbite in the wild is amazing i think there are certain celebrities um if you saw mall rats back in the day you could say like oh we understand why certain leading men had veneers to be in certain films but i think for the most part that's part of why like everyone looks the same because everyone has kind of the same smile And that is actually the thing that's like grating on me because I think what we all like, it's part of the reason why Timmy has had such like, I think is such a sensation is because he is a personality, not talking about his teeth in this case, but we are seeing what feels like authenticity, a personal, a sense of personal style, personal anecdotes going on all of these random shows and podcasts, like seeing different aspects.