Dior Couture and Peptide Mania

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1:04Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is Chris Black, co-host of How Long Gone and founder of Hanover. We're talking the men's shows, Dior Couture, Streamers, Peptides, Georgina Chapman's money problems, and so much more. Happy Tuesday, everyone. I hope you're having a great week. I know it is weird in America right now, and you know it's weird everywhere. But if you're listening to this, I aim to make you feel a little better and not think about terrible things for a while. I am currently in Europe for a bunch of stuff, including some runway shows.

1:48I went to Dior Couture yesterday. I'm going to Chanel today. I went to Schiaparelli yesterday. I'm going to Armani today. I also went to Veronique's last Hermes menswear show. I went to, what did I go? Oh, I went to Jacquemus on Sunday. It's been interesting and I've gotten to see some of you. I'm going to head back to Los Angeles on Wednesday morning for a couple of weeks and then it's New York and Los Angeles again and back to Europe for an extended trip. So if I missed you this time, I'll see you in the spring. this week in line sheet you'll find my reports from everything that's going on over here uh some of the intel i'm getting on the ground some of it i'm saving for a rainy day or to do more reporting lots of interesting stuff going on here plus rachel strugatz our beauty queen is back with a new goop report and sarah shapiro explains why a goldie denim is so damn popular if you are buying new denim it's probably a goldie i'm a huge fan of feel jeans shout out to stevie dance one of the coolest ever i'm obsessed with them but i also like a goldie especially their denim shorts so enjoy that that's a little break from the break and let's get going with chris chris black welcome back to fashion people it's always a pleasure to be here i'm looking at a a snowy New York right out of my window here.

3:14I'm getting great light. I don't know if you can tell. It is really nice. I'm so sorry now. But don't you wish you were in Paris? I mean, sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. I would say yesterday I definitely did. Today it's a little more manageable. You're not into the snow thing because a lot of people are like, I love the snow. You're lying. No one likes the snow. It impedes your daily life in a way that is, for some, insurmountable. I don't know. I'm not interested. I think it's nice. The thing I will say is I do like the cold weather. I'm fine with that. I'm fine with that. Yeah. It's in the 40s here, which is like the Mediterranean 40s.

3:53It doesn't feel like you don't even really need to button your coat. Like you definitely don't need gloves here. It's been cold. It's been cold this season in New York. It's been, I kind of like it too. If it's cold and sunny, I'm totally fine. Once it starts snowing and shit, I lose interest quickly. Yeah, I understand. You know, I was thinking on the way back on the metro to this Airbnb that like if we end up moving here full time, I'm not going to be able to like sing songs at the top of my lungs anymore. In what sense? You mean because of the decorum of the French people? It's just that like in a car, that's all I do.

4:31I'm just like this is the because, you know, I only started driving at 38. I did know you were a late bloomer. so so I my favorite thing is just to be like singing at the top of my lungs I barely listen to podcasts anymore I'm the same way I'm a big I'm a huge air drummer it's one of my greatest skills which is I think often utilized best while driving yeah and I was singing this song on the way back walking back here. I was like, I can't do this. I sound, I seem like a crazy person. Keep it down a little bit. You could do it under your breath at least, but it doesn't have the same freeing effect.

5:11It's not the same. It's not the same. Like that's the best thing about driving. So we'll see. Anyway, what did you think of the men's shows? They just finished. I feel like Noah Johnson, who was supposed to be on this podcast, but didn't follow up quick enough. So I was like, Chris, can you do this? He's going to be on later this week to talk about like the state of menswear. and now he has to do it because I said he's going to do it. Smart. No, it's called guilting. Yeah, there was a show today. It was just so long. I mean, it's like it always is. Some of it's good and some of it's really bad.

5:45And that's, you know, I really appreciated Ralph kind of showing all of his imitators who's boss. That was my personal favorite thing just because it was actually pretty good and cool. It was good. I mean I liked what everybody liked like Aura Lee the colors are so nice but I was really I went to the showroom I mean it's sick I'm going to be writing a personal order I'm not going to front yeah I wrote a personal order but I think that the I'm really into these Celine Repettos I'm really into them I saw a guy Michael Ryder at Dior today and I like didn't I wasn't able to go up to him and he's also like a little shy I was talking to Philo about how shy he's, and I was like, I'm not going to bother him right now.

6:31But it's awesome. It's so good. I just really had some flashbacks to when I used to wear white repetos. I had black and white repetos in like 2007, 2006. So like indie sleaze era, that was a thing? Yeah. I don't remember that. I mean, I don't even really know where I got it from because I was never like a Serge Gainsbourg apologist type. but I just think that they, I don't think I could wear them now, but I'm very happy to see them reappear. I don't fully understand the long tie, but that's okay. That doesn't need to be for me. It looks so good. And at Dior, I sat next to Sammy Sussman from Vogue, who I bet you know, she's cool.

7:11And she had on a little, at Hermes, they'd be called a Twilly, like a little sash. Yeah. Celine, it looks so good. She was like, I just want a little thing. It looked so cute. I need to go there. I don't think I'm going to have time on this trip, but I'll go in. It's just so good. It's just everything looks like pretty wearable, you know, which is kind of nice. It's not some it's not a freak show. It's not over the top. It's like even the stuff that's like more quote unquote crazy or experimental still feels like relatively wearable to me, which I think was always my beef with this kind of shit.

7:45Yeah. Well, it's interesting because I did a thing on Monday about this. I feel like of all the 2025 debuts, he's really winning in terms of, I had a drink with a friend who works in marketing and another brand and is very much a person. It's not really in PR, he's much more marketing. He's a person that like wherever he works, he wears head to toe, the brand. Sure, dedicated. And he was like, I love the Celine stuff. I want to work there. And I feel like it's the first time since Loewe or Prada sort of is always like this for women's especially. But it's the first time I've seen industry people wanna buy it.

8:23And that usually doesn't happen at these mega brands. Like the industry people are kinda like, maybe I would buy a couple things. But most of them are like, I wear vintage, especially in Paris, I feel like. But people are really into it. And I randomly walked by the Celine showroom on Saturday afternoon. I think the presentation was over. But I saw a woman who works there outside smoking. and she had a pair of the red repetos on that were all beat up. And it just looked, they looked great. How much are they going to hit for? I think they're sub$1 ,000, right? They're under$1 ,000. I mean, that's free at this point.

8:58That's basically free. It's basically$250. That's what it means now. Yeah, sure. I like that math. What do we think about the, because a few people have mentioned to me the Dior belt buckle. The Dior belt, which I love it. Not for me. I love it. I love it for the people who are going to buy it. I love it too, but I haven't either taken the time or heard anyone say the price. It's not that crazy. Okay. That's good to know. I have looked it up. Because it's cool. Yeah. You know what else is really affordable in the Dior collections is the costume jewelry. It's like 500 bucks, and it's cute. Brian Boy had on the daisy earrings.

9:36I bet he did. He did. I bet he did. He looked fab. I do have a I think that that particular I thought this is the one thing I do struggle with is when I see like young lean and Robert Pattinson and they look so cool and like almost normal in a good way. Yeah, and then and then when the show starts, it's like a blouse. You know what I mean? It's like a sequined blouse and I'm like, I think that's beautiful and well constructed, etc, etc. But like the guys that you're dressing in the clothes look awesome and like so approachable. approachable, but I guess you have to do both. I know that's the rule.

10:11Yes. The guys from Challengers were at the couture show today and they looked adorable. And Josh O 'Connor was wearing like a real normie outfit. The other guy whose name I can't remember, but who's very cute, was sitting next to Sarah Mumbaz. He was wearing like more of a blousey thing. Yeah. I mean, I think the blousey thing can work in certain situations, but I think a shirt and tie, I will say that I take a little bit of issue with the untucked shirt with blazer. I've never felt okay about that personally, but maybe that's just my traditional views. I don't know. I think it looks cool on them, but I don't know if I would ever do it.

10:50I think that's you being from the South and not from somewhere in the UK. But you know what I mean, right? I noticed that. I noticed that. Yeah. Yeah, no, I think like Jacob Gallagher did that story about the tie thing and the ties backwards and Scott Sternberg was like, this is stupid. It is stupid. Like, what are we doing? What did you think of the Dior men's versus the first collection? Because I know you came on the last time you were on not to promote your own brand called Hanover, Hanover-USA.com. You came on to talk about and we both really liked the first Dior men's collection. I did not like this as much for sure.

11:28Me neither. but you know it's funny all the critics loved it I thought it looked good it was like a fully formed collection I just like the proposal of the first one more I think that I just think it's like there was some cool stuff like there's things that I remember but I just don't I think sometimes things work and sometimes they don't and this guy's got to be burnt the fuck out I don't know how anybody can you can't deliver that much all the time home runs I agree I gotta say the couture was really good yeah but that's a different to me that's like a different proposition of of where the bar is like you have to sort of you have to bring you got to find the zen and the cocaine and get that thing done the part of me thinks and also it's different atelier so that's the other thing like it is a different group of people doing it part of me thinks they should have started with the couture because it was great like it was beautiful you're saying just come out of the gate with that And it also did ladder back to all of the collections.

12:26There was stuff in it. It was also, there was tons of the color I felt really was pulled from the Raph era of Dior. And then there was a lot of references to the John Galeano stuff. John Galeano was there. I saw some video of Big John. He was there. He was very, I could see him from my seat. And he was looking very closely. And he and Anna would, Wintour would talk about it for a minute. It was really interesting. But what I would say is there was also stuff like I saw from each of the collections he's done that you could see he sort of pulled it out. And then, I mean, it was amazing. The bags were amazing.

13:03It was really beautiful. And I've been to Dior Couture collections before, and they're gorgeous because it's just like when you see clothes like that, there is a difference with the production. Yeah, that's a whole different thing. That's like a whole different operation in a good way. But what it made me realize is it's probably going to be fine, especially also at San Vicente Bungalows. I already am seeing a bunch of ladies with those Dracula bags. I have not seen a Dracula bag in person. I like the story behind that, and I like why he's choosing what he's choosing. You know, I'm glad there's not like a David Foster Wallace one.

13:42But it's it's I have that would be. I have not seen one of those bags in real life yet, but I still carry my my Dior book tote with my name on it all the time. I was talking to someone about this today, and it's like for all the people that have the Dior book tote, this is they're going to they're going to upgrade to the to the book book tote. See, I would only buy that if it was a book that I really identified with. There is a book that they use that I love. I can't remember which one. Not Dracula. No, Dracula is not the one. I forget which one it was, but I was like, oh. I do like the color.

14:19I like the color, though. The yellow. It's cool. Those bags are cool. They're really well made, and they're a little small, like for a man, to be honest. But I think that I like the way they feel. Like the material is nice. The thing I will say is what this couture collection gave me great relief. Because it is too much stuff. The thing is, for years, all I wanted is for Louis Vuitton and Dior to have one designer. because it's so annoying to have these 50 different propositions. You go into a Dior store and half is one thing, half is the other. And they had this whole campaign within LVMH called One Dior.

14:56And I was always like, yes, they need it to be One Dior. And I still honestly truly believe that about Vuitton. I think they could have one person designing. One Dior is so dramatic. It sounds like a credit card or something. I like it. I like it. But then when it happened, I was like, oh, shit. Matt Tubalazi has 10 collections. I don't even Jonathan probably has 25 collections he has to do that's just I don't I mean I don't say well I mean I just don't at a certain point I don't care how much help you have that's like a lot of job yeah and they have like he's he seems to be working really well with the jewelry designer and they're doing I love honestly the jewelry above all and then obviously there's someone who does the kids and there's someone who does the home yeah you're not doing every little thing I think he is going to eventually have more influence over that stuff and over the campaigns and things for sure but it was interesting seeing the men's and then seeing the tour and the tour just like it clarified it for me and also it was pretty and I I saw a woman leaving who was a client and she liked it like there were people talking I think it's it just made me think okay this is gonna take a couple years but it's gonna work fine and it's he's gonna manage it I mean there's no one I think who's like as intelligent as him in those jobs and so he can do all the strategy and sort of people really people really love his ass I mean he's brilliant sure no no I I'm I just think that it's it's rare for people to agree uh sort of across the board yeah I think that I'm very excited to see Chanel tomorrow and I will be comparing and contrasting them yeah I told you I love the campaign that that choice like that's just we tried to get it.

16:38I tried to get Alex to shoot an unnamed thing and he was down until we mentioned using his name like to be. And it was like the price went up. And I think I mean, he's just one of the all time. I just think that if you're in those positions, that's what you should be doing. I don't know. That's what I would be doing. It's like if I have if I have a never ending budget and could do whatever I want, I'm going to hire somebody besides Juergen Teller. yes I mean that's coming from someone who loves Juergen Teller and is really getting dragged this week have you seen this new anonymous account that like there's so many is this about the kissing campaign where it's like him they were mad about that and the Bottega one I personally look I have a lot to say about the Bottega that I will maybe write in a future issue of line sheet I think that that Bottega campaign was fine and it was like a little tender which I thought was nice.

17:33And I thought that it made the clothes look good, but everyone was, I think people didn't like either of them to be honest. I mean, I think people have gotten, I think people are very mad that it's like, he feels like he's quote unquote phoning it in, which like, I mean, sure. I don't disagree, but I also think when he's good, he's good, you know? But it was cool that like Sarah did the stuff with Tyrone. That was so good. Like it was, it's nice to, it's nice to change it. You know, it's nice to change it. And I thought the Chanel campaign, A, that they're using that villa that she had, which is beautiful.

18:09They published a book. We call that storytelling in the business? Yeah. The Yana Peel team, the arts and culture team, published this gorgeous book that they sent to people over the holidays. And then for them to shoot the campaign there. And those girls just looked amazing. They looked so happy. That's what I was about to say. They looked happy, which I think is a funny. it's crazy that that's so surprising I know I can't wait for tomorrow that's what we're like responding to it's like somebody's happy is what we're responding to I heard it's a banger it's that it's really good that it's mega these are the words that people have seen it have said to me so we'll see but I'm very excited I'm sure I'm sure he'll deliver yeah yeah it'll be fun

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19:40One thing that you observed during Men's Fashion Week, and you messaged me and you were like this streamer guy. Oh. He's going to be a fashion designer. Can you explain who this person is? Senet? Kai Senet. Who is this person and why? He's like a, he's a young, I don't know how old he is. He's quite young, but he's. What is a streamer, Chris? Can you explain that to us? It's a... Like a YouTuber? My personal opinion, it's a mouth-breathing dork who turns the camera on and makes a fortune for not doing anything. Is this this guy that Dan listens to, like NKTSB or whatever? Do you know what I'm talking about?

20:15This guy's... No, what I'm saying is this guy turns on his camera and he's online for seven or eight hours. And he's just sitting in his room. And like Kevin Hart will come and Drewski will come. It's like a celebrity. People come to promote their albums because he's got the... He has more eyeballs than basically anyone else. Okay. And he is now, his girlfriend broke up with him, and he had some mental health issues, and he stopped streaming to become a fashion designer, is his words. He posted a job listing for, I wish a union heard this,$30 ,000 a year to help him design his front. And then he, but he's been going to all these fashion shows and he's, and he's obviously heavy security, like people taking pictures of him, of course, cause he's so well known, but he's carrying around this sort of like tattered, uh, high school looking mole skin.

21:08Yeah. And it's his journal for his brand and he's opening it and showing people like sketches and collages and like Polaroid pictures. He's showing like the paparazzi, this at like the kid super show. so he's going to other people's show and like, it's crazy. He doesn't really, I don't think he really knows what he's gotten into. Do you think he's actually going to retire? Uh, no, I there's, there's rumors that there's some, something more nefarious at play. Like he needed to stop for X, Y, Z reason. And this is a new pivot. I don't know any of this to be true, but it's, it's fascinating that these guys who are making, I would say the most amount of money for the least amount of work want to stop doing that to go try to make...

21:53It's Kanye's fault. They think they can get rich making clothes and they can't. Apparently, there was some announcement. Kanye made some announcement today. He took out an apology. He took out a full-page ad in the Wall Street Journal and wrote an apology. For his... Because he has... Well, he said it's... Yeah, he said several things about his diagnosis and how doctors would write it off as this and that and blah, blah, blah. I did hear from a source close to the situation. About a month and a half ago about this accident thing. What accident thing? Didn't he, doesn't he say in it, I honestly haven't read it, so we need to fact check it, but like that he got in an accident.

22:34Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. And it like messed up something like fluid in his brain or something. Sure, look, sure. I mean, I'm like. This is what I, and I heard this a month and a half ago from someone in that world. I believe, I believe, I believe that could be true, but I think that at a certain point, it's like I don't know man I don't know if you give us a hit people won't care but if you just keep talking people aren't going to give you the time of day I mean his fashion brand he never launched any of that stuff I mean I think that he ships some of it like the$20 shoes I know shipped at some point but let's see if Kai Sinat can go toe to toe with him I'm really happy to be the one to tell you about that because it was a big he went to every show I mean, not every, he didn't go to the big ones.

23:19He didn't waste his time at Jacquemus, but you know what I mean? Like he, he went to the ones that like mattered. I had a great time at Jacquemus. We got to stop. We got to stop the fake rollout for his grandmother. We got to stop, bro. But here's the thing I will say. I went backstage. First of all, so many people, I'll tell you offline who they were, but so many people DM me, a friend of mine who's a director, a friend of mine who has a lot of money and owns a lot of businesses loved it. To me this is the issue with it. I'm not saying it's not a good business. I don't know what they loved. It's a good business because it's Reformation but French.

23:57Exactly. I get that. It is not a designer brand. It's a contemporary brand whatever the price point is. I think the industry people are like, please stop. Where the reality of it is that people love this shit. It looks like it would be in a movie. It's like a fashion brand in a movie. It looks like, I saw somebody describe it as what Emily in Paris thinks clothes are, and that's the most accurate thing I've seen. They should have hired him to design the clothes in Emily in Paris. The dress where, like, the top was the... It's too much. About once a week, someone from Hollywood calls me and is like, we want to do a show about fashion.

24:37And I go and meet with them for an hour, and I'm like, what you can't do is have clothes on a runway because it will never feel believable. But if Jacquemus did them, then it would be real. That would feel believable. You're right. Another thing I wanted to ask you about is peptides. Do you take them? Yeah. I mean, I don't mean to boast, but I've been taking peptides for three or four years. Is your peptide person someone? No. Is it also Jason's peptide person? That's not out this person. I get them from Dr. Mike Carragher is his name. He's in Los Angeles. He's a men's aging specialist who I heard about from a - You mean a longevity specialist?

25:20That's right. I met him through a very in shape, older gay man who was like, if you do this now - Nick Worcester? If you start this now - He'll love it. Let's say his name. He was like, Chris, you should start this now because I started it later. and he looks amazing. I only take one. It's called Sermalin and it's basically for like recovery. So like I like, I used to have like joint pain and all this shit that is now gone. Thanks to this. But I have to give myself a shot every night, which is annoying. Yeah. Well, I wrote about it after going to a party. Oh, I know where I know all about this.

25:56You know where I was. Yeah. Literally every single person was talking about it and you should see the stacks people sent me. Yeah, it's insane. I mean, I think that I think some of this stuff is a little bit like a little more advanced version of vitamins where if you want it to work, then it does. And I'm fine. I'm fine with that. You know what I mean? I'm fine. If it makes me feel better, whether that's mental or real or a mix of both, I'm okay with that. Well, I do notice a difference when I've taken NAD plus. Yeah. Like in inflammation and all that stuff. Yeah. But it's powerful. like get have a doctor do this guys i mean i i started i mean my doctor i get my blood taken every quarter and they analyze the results and then tweak tweak things based on that but obviously taking copper no no no i mean i would if somebody told me it worked what do you think is gonna be the result of this because the most interesting thing at this culturally you mean yeah because at this event I was at, literally every single person was like, this is my stack and also was smoking.

27:02Yeah. Well, you're talking to also a certain kind of person with a certain kind of disposable income. Yes. With a certain level of vanity because of the job that they do. Yes. But also the fact that they were smoking, like that's the interesting thing. Two different things, two different things. I think it's going to allow for poor taking care of yourself in normal life. because if you're like this this is happening with glp1s i think a lot of people eat like shit because they don't can't eat a lot so they're like i'll just eat a little bit of the shitty thing yeah i think that's probably true to an extent but i think that the i think that the kind of i think most people who smoke casually like that are completely like they're not they want to look hot and skinny and feel good they don't think about they're not worried about cancer it's like two different things.

27:52True. True. I mean, but the thing is you're supposed to be worried about all of it because the stuff's supposed to make you live until you're... We're all going to die. We're all going to die. But we might live until we're 120. I definitely am not going to... I don't want to live until I'm 120. Tap me out at 75. Then why are you taking Circa whatever is... Cirmaline because I want to lift weights and not have elbow pain. Does it really help with that? Yeah. Like, it's unbelievable. I used to be like... I would have issues all the time with my elbows specifically from like specific certain weightlifting movements.

28:22And now those are for the most part gone. I have noticed that I have a little tennis elbow from doing a lot of the legree stuff. Yeah, it's all, you're putting so much pressure on the joints. I just think I can't have another doctor. I mean, you can just buy it. Then just buy it, mix it yourself. I trust you. Trust you, it comes in powder, but you can make it into liquid. I think someone should do a chart of the rise in cigarette smoking and the rise in this stuff. Because I just feel like everyone is smoking again. Yeah, but I think it's unrelated, I think. I don't. Okay. It was very interesting.