In short
Conde Nast leadership shake-up, focusing on Will Welch’s exit from GQ, potential successors, and a “temp check” on Mark Guaducci’s early months at Vanity Fair. The hosts also discuss how Conde Nast’s editor changes reflect broader magazine industry shifts.
Guests (backgrounds)
Jessica Testa and Michael Grinbaum are New York Times reporters. They have covered Conde Nast and media leadership transitions; Testa is credited with breaking the Will Welch news quickly.
Key claims
- Welch’s departure signals a major cultural/generational change across GQ, Vanity Fair, and Vogue within months.
- GQ under Welch modernized men’s fashion coverage (streetwear, relevant hires) and experimented with more journalistic formats (e.g., Men of the Year long-form video interviews).
- Successors discussed include Willa Bennett, Sam Hine, Adam Badawi (Welch’s deputy), and “dark horse” Chris Black; the debate is whether they have managerial experience and a clear vision, plus advertiser appeal.
- Guaducci’s Vanity Fair early wins include a major Trump White House piece; his tenure is still early and will be tested by upcoming events.
Notable examples
- GQ Men of the Year cover stories using long-form video interviews.
- Vanity Fair’s Trump White House feature (and related photo ethics controversy) and the Olivia Nuzzi scandal.
- Vanity Fair’s Oscars party partnership with LACMA; comparison to Sarah Moonves’ W Magazine party.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOSaks Bankruptcy and Its Implications
2:16 to 3:20
Discuss the recent filing for bankruptcy by Saks and its effects on fashion.
“Line Sheet is scoopy, analytical, and above all, fun.”
Gian Battista Valli Investigation
3:20 to 4:38
An exploration into designer Gian Battista Valli's current troubles.
“And check out Bill's email, Dry Powder, on Sunday, where he's going to cover more of what he thinks about the whole sax situation.”
Group Text to Podcast
4:38 to 5:12
Hosts discuss their group conversations on Condé Nast news.
“And until then, let's hit going with Jess and Michael.”
Breakfast and Local News
5:12 to 6:46
Casual conversation about breakfast choices and local news sources.
“the three of us sometimes, whenever there's Condé news, we get on a little group text and talk about it.”
Instagram Following Habits
6:46 to 9:10
Discussion on Instagram following habits and local news discovery.
“There's also a really good one that's like the Onion of Marin County that I can't remember the name, but I follow it on Instagram.”
GQ's Leadership Changes
9:10 to 11:00
Examining the recent changes in leadership at GQ and their significance.
“But I do think my ratio is more follows to followers.”
Will Welch's Departure
11:00 to 12:18
Insights into Will Welch's departure from GQ and its implications.
“What do you all, and so there's a lot going on.”
Anna Wintour's Future
12:18 to 13:31
Discussion on the future of Anna Wintour and her editorial roles.
“And so so what do you all think about that?”
Condé Nast's Cultural Shift
13:31 to 14:00
Exploring the generational shift within Condé Nast's editorial teams.
“And I think as you have written in line sheet, Will was very much in the conversation for that bigger job.”
GQ's Modernization under Will
14:00 to 14:40
Explore how Will modernized GQ, embracing streetwear and new formats.
“He has been such a sort of stable and consistent force at a company that hasn't had many of them in recent years.”
Show all 35 chapters
Innovative Cover Stories of GQ
14:40 to 15:40
Learn about GQ's new long-form video interview approach for cover stories.
“And I felt like it got back into kind of a fashion forward style kind of vernacular.”
Focus on Fashion Enthusiasm
15:40 to 16:50
Discussion about GQ's shift towards niche fashion enthusiasm under Will's leadership.
“Kat Stoffel and Sam did some of them too.”
The Impact of Will's Departure
16:50 to 18:10
Analyze the implications of Will's departure for GQ and potential successors.
“We're going to focus on fashion enthusiasm and be a niche magazine because you can't really be a general interest style magazine anymore.”
Potential GQ Editor Candidates
18:10 to 19:10
Discuss potential candidates for the GQ editor position post-Will.
“And I am sure that they are gutted that he left.”
The Feminine Approach to GQ
19:10 to 21:00
Debate the idea of a female editor leading GQ and its impact on the brand.
“So she has the experience of being at the top of a publication.”
Evaluating Leadership Qualities
21:00 to 22:30
Evaluate the leadership qualities of potential candidates for GQ's editor role.
“GQ still does have this niche as one of the few places kind of in the fashion media world that still feels comfortable and approachable to straight non-fashion guys as well as its kind of fashion audience.”
The Role of Adam at GQ
22:30 to 24:30
Examine the potential of Adam, Will's deputy, as a candidate for GQ's future.
“But then I think that it's true that I don't know.”
Global Perspectives on GQ's Leadership
24:30 to 26:50
Discuss the implications of having a non-American editor for GQ.
“I could see them having him oversee both of them.”
The Debate Over Masculinity in Fashion
26:50 to 28:00
Delve into the discussion on masculinity in fashion and GQ's unique position.
“It also made me, I realized that GQ is the only major Condé title that has never had a non-American editor.”
Speculating on a New Editor
28:00 to 28:50
Discussion on the potential new editor's qualifications and background.
“I think she values education and values understanding of the world more than anything.”
Current Landscape of Fashion Editors
30:22 to 31:48
Analysis of the current fashion editor landscape and key players.
“the guy who who got high snobiety after Willa.”
The Shift in Media Coverage
31:49 to 33:00
Discussion on the changing nature of media coverage for magazine editor changes.
“back at them when the Vanity Fair thing happened and there was so much like, here are the seven people who could potentially get it.”
Potential Candidates for GQ
33:01 to 34:08
Exploration of potential candidates for the GQ editor position.
“I do always count on Lachlan Cartwright to throw out a crazy idea, though.”
Chris Black as a Dark Horse Candidate
34:09 to 36:28
Discussion on Chris Black's potential role and profile in the fashion industry.
“And in Thursday's line sheet, I say this exact thing.”
The Role of a Modern Magazine Editor
36:29 to 38:18
Analyzing the expectations and realities of being a magazine editor today.
“I think the question is, like, is it him or is it someone with a similar profile that we're not thinking about and he's just like in our Instagram?”
Evaluating Glamour's Editorial Direction
38:19 to 42:00
Comparative analysis of Glamour magazine's editorial choices and challenges.
“and, I mean, not just men, but yes, men in particular.”
Mark Guaducci's Impact on Vanity Fair
42:00 to 44:39
Discover the early effects of Mark Guaducci's tenure at Vanity Fair.
“I mean, if anybody knows who is actually going to get this job, please message all of us at the same time.”
Masculinity in Media: GQ vs Vanity Fair
44:40 to 47:14
Explore the evolving narratives of masculinity in GQ and Vanity Fair.
“I mean, it's really early and I'm still like absorbing.”
Upcoming Events and Competition in Fashion Media
47:15 to 50:08
Learn about the upcoming Oscars party and competition in the fashion media landscape.
“of full look like mandate from the brands.”
Radhika Jones' Memoir and Condé Nast's Narrative
52:20 to 56:00
Discuss Radhika Jones' upcoming memoir and Condé Nast's media narrative.
“I thought we would talk about Radhika Jones' upcoming memoir, but we don't have to.”
Navigating the Challenges of Magazine Editing
56:00 to 59:59
Explore the complexities and challenges facing magazine editors today.
“And I just think like, I don't know, I think part, I think they create a lot of problems for themselves.”
The Legacy of Condé Nast and Its Current State
1:00:00 to 1:02:38
Understand the historical context and current dynamics within Condé Nast.
“Roger Lynch there is a lot of um the legacy stuff has been pulled away because a lot of those legacy executives have been moved out.”
Gourmet's Trademark Controversy
1:02:39 to 1:05:28
Delve into the recent trademark lapse of Gourmet and its implications.
“you know, there's a point where they're just going to have to, like, jump off the diving board and kind of hand it off to the next generation.”
Political Impact and Public Image at the Met Gala
1:05:29 to 1:09:41
Discuss the potential implications of political figures attending the Met Gala.
“I can't speak to sort of Stan's individual charisma.”
Discussion on Fashion and Public Image
1:10:01 to 1:10:22
Exploration of the impact of individuals on fashion media and its coverage.
“Yeah, it would capture so many headlines.”
Transcript
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1:33Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's Fashion and Beauty Memo Line Sheet. And today with me on the show are New York Times reporters Jessica Testa and Michael Grinbaum. They're here to chat about the state of Conde Nast. Who will replace Will Welch at GQ? How is Mark Guaducci doing at Vanity Fair? Why do we all know the name of the HR guy? And so much more. Before we get going, I wanted to remind you that if you like this podcast, you'll definitely love Puck, where I send an email called Line Sheet. If you're a fashion person, you get that reference. It's an original look at what's really going on inside the fashion and beauty industries.
2:16Line Sheet is scoopy, analytical, and above all, fun. Along with me, a subscription to Puck gains you access to an unmatched roster of experts reporting on powerful people and companies in entertainment, media, sports, politics, finance, the art world, and much more. If you're interested, listeners of Fashion People get a discount. Just go to puck.news slash fashion people to join Puck or start a free trial. Happy Friday, everyone. It's been a big week over here at Line Sheet. Saks Global filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on Wednesday morning. Now we are sorting out exactly what that means for the fashion industry.
2:57Lots of differing opinions. I'm trying to get them all in the email and also on this podcast. If you enjoyed my conversation with Pucks Bill Cohan last week, be sure to check out Friday's Line Sheet where you will find our post-filing chat. So we go through what could happen, what should happen. It's a really nice, fun conversation. And check out Bill's email, Dry Powder, on Sunday, where he's going to cover more of what he thinks about the whole sax situation. In other news, there was a report in an Italian newspaper indicating that Gian Battista Valli, it's called Il Foglio, I don't know. you either think that the fact that I can't pronounce anything is cute or you think it's terrible but whatever I live my truth anyway Jean-Baptiste Tavalli is in big trouble and so I did some of my own investigation into this and we ran a piece on Thursday about it's really interesting he's a sort of kind of comes from the old world he's a dressmaker but he's Gen X and he was a creative director at Montclair for a Montclair collection.
4:08So it's kind of an interesting character and it was illuminating to report on it. I feel like we'll have another update soon. Who knows if that company is going to stay in business. But anyway, the men's shows are getting started and I will be in Paris late next week for the tail end of that plus Couture where Jean-Baptiste Valli is supposed to show on January 26th. six. He knows if that will happen. It's a very short trip last minute, but I do hope to see you. And until then, let's hit going with Jess and Michael.
4:44Jessica Testa and Michael Grimbom, welcome to Fashion People. Thanks for having us. Thank you. Welcome back. We love being on Fashion People and we're doing it together. We've never done this before. And this is where we're in a soundproof room in the New York Times building. So it's a team exercise. Yeah. I'm excited for this experiment. We've never had someone in the same, the two people in the same room before, I don't think. I mean, I think it's appropriate because we have, the three of us sometimes, whenever there's Condé news, we get on a little group text and talk about it. So we're just bringing the group text to the people.
5:21We do. I'm very excited. Okay. So to start, it is Friday, so I have to ask you about breakfast. What'd you have? I had cereal with yogurt and banana and blueberries. What about you? I had, for the New Yorkers listening, there's this cool new coffee shop on East First Street in the East Village called Moon Coffee. It opened like a month ago. It's really good. They're like coffee nerds. I had like a cold brew. And then they have these little sweet potato kind of biscuits that they heat up for you. And it like really hits the spot. So highly recommend. Can I just say I know about that because of, is it Evie Grieve?
6:05Yes, it was on Evie Grieve. Which I started subscribing to after, Michael, you were on How Long Gone? Because you know I'm a big local news junkie. And I believe that the big opportunity making money in journalism is figuring out local news. And so I follow lots of weird local news publications. But Evie Grieve has been around for like 20 years, right? I feel like it's the OG hyperlocal blog. And it's funny. I wonder if that guy should try it out on Substack and just start getting subscription revenue. He's on Substack. That's what I get. Yeah, I just started following a Boreham Hill, where I live in Brooklyn, a Boreham Hill Substack that I think I discovered through Emily Sundberg's Feed Me.
6:50Oh, interesting. There's also a really good one that's like the Onion of Marin County that I can't remember the name, but I follow it on Instagram. I follow the one that you like, the East LA one. Oh, yeah. The East Side Rock. He's great. Like, that's legit. I like him. He's a sweet guy and getting little scoops. I feel like Emily Sundberg should hire him to do her West Coast thing. And then there's also a really great paper on Nantucket that I learned about this year that's like some of the best reporting, local reporting. When Ralph Lauren was getting looted on Nantucket this summer, I was following very closely.
7:35It's great. I don't know if you've ever talked about this on your podcast, but you follow more people on Instagram than like I think you follow the max amount of people. Is this is this like a hobby for you? Okay, so I don't know how this happened. But yes, I, I right now I've, I've reduced during the holidays, I had a week off and I spent most of that that time unfollowing people on Instagram. When I joined Instagram, I joined pretty early because my husband was a tech reporter for a long time. And so I was on all these platforms very early because he'd be like, just get on this platform or whatever.
8:11I don't know, I just started following. And I follow we traveled, We travel a lot still, and I would follow restaurants in local places. Often I find restaurants I'm following in places that I've never been to. And I would follow a lot of brands and a lot of shops and things, like anything to do with travel. And it just got totally out of control. Right now, let's look to see. Because I truly spent hours over the break, and it's very hard to unfollow people. Right now I'm only following 7 ,251, 7 ,251 people. So I have some, but every six months or so, I call like 500 people and then suddenly I'm being denied the ability to follow someone.
9:08It's strange. How many people do you all follow? Couldn't tell you. But I do think my ratio is more follows to followers. Yeah, I would guess because I also do the same thing you do. And I will like sort of aggressively follow just restaurants that I like want to go to. And oh, actually, no, my ratio is a normal person's ratio. But yeah, I think it's a great tool for discovering local. I think if I followed too many accounts, it would like dilute my feed. and then I'd start getting stuff that I'd be like, oh, that's from a vacation I planned five years ago. That happens to me a lot, especially if you're in a different time zone.
9:51So when I go to Europe, suddenly all this weird stuff that I follow in Ireland, where I've never been, pops up. But I am just interested in how, I don't know, I can't stop myself. I followed a bar in Manchester a couple of weeks ago and was like, I really shouldn't do this. And it came up a few times. And I don't, I've never been to Manchester and I can't help myself. Eventually I'll start to feel like it doesn't make sense. But for now. I'm also a believer that Instagram is passively listening to all of our conversations. And so I expect when I log on after this recording, that Nantucket blog you mentioned is going to get served to me, even though I haven't Googled it or anything, like it's clearly eavesdropping all the time.
10:391 ,000%. That's definitely true. Once I was talking about a Sam Marzocco or whatever it's called, espresso machine,$25 ,000 and got an advertisement for it afterwards. Wow. It's wild. Anyway, we're here to talk about the publishing company that Instagram killed,
11:05I wanted to have you both on because last week there was some big news and there's been just a lot of stuff going on Will Welch the editor-in-chief global editorial director of GQ announced that he was leaving the magazine to go work for Pharrell in a yet-to-be-explained job for kind of his holding company that in Paris, that Penny Tho, the like super manager is running. Jess, you broke this news. You were just so fast. It was amazing.
11:44What do you all, and so there's a lot going on. So the will thing is a big deal, but then there's all this other stuff happening and Condé Nast is just like back in the conversation again. And let's start, Michael, what did you want to say? No, I was, and Jess, you should, you, I mean, Jess broke the story and is the expert on it, but I'll just say we now have arguably, well, not the New Yorker, but the three biggest, I would say most important non-New Yorker titles, Vanity Fair, Vogue, and GQ, changing editors in the span of what, like four or five months here? I mean, that is a huge generational and cultural sea change at the company.
12:22Yeah. And so so what do you all think about that? Look, like the Vogue thing had to happen. The Vanity Fair thing had to happen. The GQ thing, I don't think anybody expected. Sometimes I would get the sense like, what is Will going to do? Like, he's kind of done it. I don't see how you evolve what he's done into something else. And the problem with a lot of the last generation editors is they they stayed around. They stuck around for too long. But it doesn't feel like his GQ is really evolving much other than doing more and more events, which makes sense. He does this Super Bowl fashion show thing now.
13:01I think this is going to be the third year that they've done that or the second year. But what did you all just when you found out about this, like, what did you think? I think there is a very big question hovering above Condé Nast right now, which is who will take the jobs that Anna Wintour currently has, the two jobs she has, when she relinquishes those titles the same way that she relinquished editor of American Vogue last year. And I think as you have written in line sheet, Will was very much in the conversation for that bigger job. So it wasn't surprising to me on some levels because I think, you know, he's been there for over two decades and he's been at GQ and I think are around two decades.
13:52And that's a long time to beat a job. And I think anytime somebody changes jobs in media, we shouldn't be super shocked. But the surprising part was that I thought that he was a really leading candidate for those bigger and winter jobs. And honestly, he still is. I mean, he could come back. He could come back easily. But that's where I was surprised. He has been such a sort of stable and consistent force at a company that hasn't had many of them in recent years. And I think he did such a smart job of kind of modernizing GQ, which had become kind of a bit stale. And it felt like from an earlier kind of era of how of men's fashion, how men sort of think about themselves.
14:38And I felt like, I mean, events were a big part of it, but it felt like, you know, there were really smart hires like Sam Hine and Willow, you know, Willow Bennett was there. Rachel Toshin was there. And I felt like it got back into kind of a fashion forward style kind of vernacular. And they embrace streetwear and they, you know, he like kind of made it relevant, which, you know, in these days is very difficult for Conde Nast magazine to be. So I have to think they feel it's a loss for him to walk out the door. Oh, yeah. And I'll say, to your point about you didn't feel like GQ was changing, I think in small ways it was.
15:17I noticed for the Men of the Year package, those cover stories were done in a different way. They were like long-form video interviews, which GQ hadn't done before. most of its videos tend to be those sort of short form, like gamified, you know, what's in your bag or what are your essentials or like show me your watch collection things. And for them to have like the stars of that issue sit down with GQ journalists, like actual journalists, we're not talking about sort of influencer entertainer types like Sean Evans from Hot Ones or Amelia from. Who is a great interviewer. Let's just be honest.
15:58So good. But yes. Not from Chicken Shop Date or whatever. Yeah. It was like Zach and Kat. Kat Stoffel and Sam did some of them too. So they felt more journalistic. And I thought that that was an interesting direction for them to go in. It wasn't like the most earth shattering moving things forward to your point. But it was he was still doing new things there. Yeah. Yeah. Look, my thing about Will since he got that job and I've been covering it since since he was there, essentially, when he got the there was GQ style quarterly and I interviewed him and I talked to Jim Nelson, his predecessor. And Jim was basically like, well, he's going to get my job and this is the sort of way we prep him for it.
16:44But I thought that I agree that Will did the smart thing and said, we're not going to try to win Pulitzer Prizes. Let Esquire do that. We're going to focus on fashion enthusiasm and be a niche magazine because you can't really be a general interest style magazine anymore. The Internet is there for that. And so he dug deep. And I remember talking to advertisers who were more traditional, who would say things like, you know, we're not trying to pursue rappers, which you can take what you think that means. But like there were definitely some advertisers who were not not into it because he was very focused on like the middle of pop culture and and real like what street fashion was.
17:31And in the end, I think they all came around and supported him. And I always say like that and Town and Country to me are the only, and I don't count the New Yorker in any of this, but are the only sort of glossy magazines where I could see people really wanting to work there. And Michael, you mentioned Rachel and Nikki Oganaki and all these people who went through that brand and many of them stayed for a long time. And I think people really wanted to work there. And so it was, to me, the model of what all the other big magazines should be. And I am sure that they are gutted that he left. And also, you know, the idea that he would become the chief content officer someday, and I agree with you, Jess, I think there's a huge chance he will if he wanted to go back.
18:25But that was something that like Condé people were planting with me. Like they want that to happen because he's a great leader. He's likable. He's inspiring. He has a point of view. And he and I think more than any of the other editors who are under Wintour's purview, she gave him the space to do what he wanted to do. I think the question is, where does it go from now and who is the right person to take it to the next step? So we can go through a list of nominees, but I'm curious who you all think, because I have my pick. oh I'm sure you I think I know who your pick is but I think two people I messaged like as soon as this happened were Willa Bennett and Sam Hine I think if you go to fashion shows it felt very much like Will and Sam are always together it felt like from the outside at least that Will was sort of like grooming Sam for a bigger position at GQ um and then I texted Willa because she used to be a GQ and she now runs Cosmo.
19:31So she has the experience of being at the top of a publication. And as Mike and I talked about sort of in the aftermath of this, like how cool would it be to have someone like her, like a girl at GQ, like leading GQ, like she's she's cool. She's like an exciting choice. Is she the kind of person that like men's fashion advertisers would line up behind? Like I think there's an argument for, yeah, she could totally pull it off. But it is a question. Just as with Sam, I think the question is like, he's never sort of led a publication. So does he have experience to do that? But those are the two people who came to mind immediately for me, only because I really think Conde is committed to, at least from the last two appointments, we saw picky elevating people in-house or who have at least been to the title.
20:20So I thought initially, and we did talk about this, like I thought just almost the novelty of picking a woman to run GQ would be like a brilliant move. I was thinking about the amount of coverage that would get an attention. Like I was thinking like the profile would be, she knows what men want. Like you can just write the headline right there. And also some of the more exciting menswear designers right now are women, like Grace Wells Bonner going into Hermes. So I did put this, however, to another person who asked to remain nameless, but a smart thinker about these things. And they made a very smart counter argument, which was that, you know, GQ still does have this niche as one of the few places kind of in the fashion media world that still feels comfortable and approachable to straight non-fashion guys as well as its kind of fashion audience.
21:13And like, maybe there is a certain broishness about GQ. And I'm not saying that like, that couldn't be retained under a female editor, but maybe there is kind of a, you know, market and a certain like an aspect to GQ that's unique that no other magazine has? And like, is there a question like that? And then I think the advertisers would be the other thing. Like, are there too many? I mean, Lauren, you were mentioning there are some like very traditional old line kind of men's fashion, you know, people who are advertising there. Would it not work? I'm kind of like on the fence. I mean, I still think it'd be really cool, but I do think there's good arguments on either side.
21:53And then there's the name I was hearing all over L.A., which you should pitch us your argument for him, which is Chris Black. My pick is Chris Black. But let's talk about Adam, the deputy guy, first. And I will explain my—so here's the thing about this job. I think both Sam Hine and Willa Bennett are in the running if they wish to be. I think the Willa thing—exactly. When it when I first when it first happened, I thought, oh, yeah, Willa is going to go for this and she's going to be like a big a big part of this. But then I think that it's true that I don't know. I don't know how it was so clear what they needed from the Vogue job.
22:43It was so clear what they needed from the Vanity Fair job. And while maybe Sarah Moonves and Eva Chen were people who they would really love for that job, I think they all knew Khloe was the right person to be the manager of that brand at this point. With Vanity Fair, would they have loved to get David Haskell? Sure. It wasn't going to happen. And so the person who really wanted it and who has paid their dues got it. And we can talk more about Mark Guaducci later. but I would say that like with this job because Will was doing well and so beloved within the business it's not a clear like Sam is it's not even that Sam's young it's that Sam has never been a manager that he's great with advertisers everyone likes him he's good at a party he can take the photos does he have a vision for that magazine and the person and then Willa I think she hasn't really proven herself at Cosmo.
23:47She's done a couple interesting things, and I know a lot of advertisers really like her. But I would say that I think she still needs time at Cosmo, unless so it's at, look, 17, whatever. That's not her problem in my mind. But I think she needs some time to prove herself there. And while I think there's a chance they would go for it if her project was great and she does have the managerial experience, I'm sure her and Sam are the same age or around the same age. I'm not sure she is good enough or has proven that she's good enough. The person that has come up a lot is this guy, Adam, who is Will's deputy.
24:32His name's adam badawi he is the deputy uh whatever will's title is will has a slightly better title than the rest of the content heads um i think he's editorial director instead of editorial content but this guy seems to be someone who everyone really respects in the building they like him he looks the part he is global he's very as one cmo said to be is very well educated and like likable the the feedback i've gotten is like the are the ideas there again like does he have a vision he looks great in a suit can he make gq and evolve it just a bit to make it something real and i don't know that answer because i don't know him you know i don't know if you all have know anything about him but yeah i i think he's yeah are you hearing that he would like the idea is that he would be the global editorial director and then there would be a head of american content that was under him and that often raises okay i assume he would move to the u.s I don't know.
25:55I could see them having him oversee both of them. I have no idea. I have not done much reporting on this since the news came out because I've been dealing with the sex stuff. I don't know if Jess, if you've heard anything, but I would assume he would move to the U.S. because this is their biggest market. And also, I mean, I'm sure you all know about this China. We don't need to get into that, but they have like a real catastrophe in China that this person is going to have to deal with. And I just think being close to Anna, who's going to be traveling a lot this year, working on the other on the other Vogue's would be really important.
26:31Yeah, definitely. His name has definitely come up. And I could envision them doing something creative where he's like the global head and then one of these more maybe younger experience, like, you know, less experienced in management, but but more visionary people could get the American title the way that Chloe has the American title of Vogue. It also made me, I realized that GQ is the only major Condé title that has never had a non-American editor. VF, Vogue, and The New Yorker have all been run by Brits. But that also made me think, I mean, British GQ, I think, has always been a great outpost of the magazine, has had its own kind of personality there.
27:17Do you think there's any question about like kind of a European or I guess like British sort of sense of masculinity is different from America, right? I mean, it's a bit more foppish. It's a bit more eccentric. And I mean, that's some people's taste. But I mean, GQ for all sort of the streetwear that Will brought into it, I do think it tends more toward like the conservative American male dressing. And yeah, I'm just sort of curious about how that might play out. Yeah. And that's my argument for Chris Black, which we'll get to in one minute. But it is. Yes, I think that's an issue. I think Anna, I mean, doesn't really feel British anymore, but will always be British.
28:00I think she values education and values understanding of the world more than anything. And so I just don't know if this guy has any ideas. And also, you're right. Like the UK, these European countries are so they're really niche. Like you want to see niche magazines like they go really fashion, really specific. And so I have no idea. Maybe he could handle it. Maybe he can't. I think, is he, I want to say he's Australian, which is like another thing. I'm not positive about that. Don't fact check me or fact check me and let me know. But I don't know. I think the question is, I know Will really relied on him.
28:43If A, he wants the job and B, he has enough. And I just don't, I don't know if he does.
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29:35You think it's good enough. Is it? I'm Susie Welch. I host a podcast called Becoming You. People think, okay, an A plus life is not available to me, but there is a way. We are all in the process of becoming ourselves. Listen to Becoming You wherever you get your podcasts.
30:21in or sort of like in this like men's fashion world who we all know like the guy who who got high snobiety after Willa. Noah Johnson's. Yeah, for sure. Yeah. He's definitely going to go for it. I mean, I don't know this for sure. I am guessing, but I would assume yes. I think Noah is another person who should be considered for sure. I'm a huge fan of the dark horse, but I also think like Like it says something that the three of us who love to talk about this company, love to gossip about this company, love to report on this company, don't know anything about, you know, Adam, don't know much about him.
31:01Like, I think like he'll have to he should if this were sort of a traditional editor's race from 10, 15 years ago, his job right now would be building his profile, I think, with people like us and like the press. because this like these editorships used to be like battled out right and like the tabloids before like during during the hiring obligation process and I think we I think that's really been lost I mean you Lauren I think are the only one who really reports on like the horse race a little bit but I think like I remember even if you look at the times like there's always coverage of like who's gonna who's next in line who's in the succession for leadership here but like that that stopped happening at some point in the mainstream media press.
31:46Yeah. Like when Graydon, Michael, I feel like you did pieces around that when I was, I was looking back at them when the Vanity Fair thing happened and there was so much like, here are the seven people who could potentially get it. And, and now the, the world has just changed and there's so much bigger stuff to cover. It's kind of like how we don't publish exclusives on lookbooks anymore. I mean, so when I was researching my history of Condé Nast, which I believe is 40 % off at Amazon right now. Sorry, what's the title? I think it's called Empire of the Elite. Okay, okay. And, you know, the hardcover has a nice photo, some great photos of vintage photos of Anna and great and everyone.
32:31No, when I was researching the book, it was, you know, it was incredible because like when there were editor changes at Condé magazines, it would literally be like a front page story in the New York Times. Like they were such seismic events. I broke the news of Graydon Carter leaving Vanity Fair. This was back in 2017, which doesn't seem that long ago. But I mean, yeah, like and you're right, Lauren, we did do a whole horse race story like handicapping the field. You know, we were calling all around town. And like, you know, the fact that that just kind of doesn't happen anymore, like eight years later, is very much reflective of where the magazine world is in the zeitgeist and, you know, its influence.
33:10I do always count on Lachlan Cartwright to throw out a crazy idea, though. If anybody reads Breaker, I think he threw out Ben Smith. Oh, my God. He also said Noah Shackman. And one of my colleagues was like, do you think he met Noah Johnson? I was like, no. Yeah. And I mean, he threw out My Felony for Vanity Fair, which which did make more sense given the like Hollywood connection. But Ben Smith makes the who is my former boss makes the least sense of anyone I've ever heard. somebody who i actually thought would have been on a short list uh is sarah ball who yes who came up at gq um and is editing wsj and and i think just a few hours ago we found out that she um has been promoted to oversee all features at the wall street journal which is i'm a big sarah fan i think that's fantastic um obviously looks like she's not in the running anymore for gq but like i you know she would have been i think a good choice totally she she she spent time at gq right or am I?
34:09Yes, she spent a lot of time there. And in Thursday's line sheet, I say this exact thing. I guess she's not going to GQ. And if you would like some intel on how people inside the building there are reacting to this news that she got this big promotion, I recommend you reading line sheet. But yeah, I think Sarah, I mentioned her and it was funny. She was not mentioned in Lachlan's, which just a note about that, that she was not mentioned in his lineup. But yeah, so like on this Chris Black thing, look, I've known Chris for a long time, so I'm kind of biased, but also like, I don't know. I don't he's he has not been an editor and a manager at a publication before.
34:52So it it seems pretty far fetched to me. But like it was one of those things where on our Instagram about Will's departure, a lot of I looked at who people mentioned. They mentioned Mark Anthony Green. He used to work at GQ. He's a director now. I don't think he's going to be going back to run GQ. I don't know. Maybe he is someone that people would look at. I started thinking about the Chris thing. And look, I don't know. Maybe he wouldn't want to do it either. But the point being that, like, you need someone who has authority with men, who understands, like, modern media. Chris has become famous because of this podcast, How Long Gone, that he does with his friend Jason Stewart.
35:38And also someone who, like, really gets fashion. and European fashion, yes, but also American style, which right now I think for the next 10 years even is going to be a big part of the conversation. Like this is all connected to MAGA and trad life and all of that. And I'm not saying that Chris is wearing a Make America Great Again hat, but he just launched this brand Hanover. It's like jeans and t-shirts, it's very simple, but it's about sort of that American fashion that people like Jonathan Anderson are inspired by right now. Like we've seen the success of J.Crew where Chris is a consultant.
36:21And so I think like, does he have the sort of chops to do it? That's a question. But I think like if he does, someone like that is actually a really interesting prospect. I think the question is, like, is it him or is it someone with a similar profile that we're not thinking about and he's just like in our Instagram? So but but I think he he is a stronger if this was, again, not putting his name up for Vanity Fair. If this was a different situation, it wouldn't be a question. But like there's part of me that thinks they should look at him and consider him. I like the idea of Chris Black as the uniter we've all been waiting for.
37:09I think it's an exciting proposition. Like, again, I'm a fan of the dark horse candidate. And the only thing that makes them as dark horse, I think, is not having the experience that you mentioned. But I think it's a good thing. I think we're certainly in a position in, like, American politics where people who don't have experience are being rewarded with big jobs. and I think that I think he could do a really interesting job the question for me though is like why would he want to like he has a consulting business that I understand you know is really successful he has a the podcast which I mean like most podcasts are not like lucrative but like it's really cemented him in sort of the cultural zeitgeist and he has like a cool guy about town like floating from project to project, starting a clothing line, like consulting situation, which seems kind of ideal in this like this like super fractured media ecosystem.
38:06Like being the editor of a magazine, as we've reported, is like not a desirable job the way that it was many years ago. I really agree that he I think he has currency with a really broad cross section of listeners. and, I mean, not just men, but yes, men in particular. Like, when I went on Chris's podcast last summer, I heard from people who I went to, like, middle school with who I hadn't talked to in years and years. And, like, I mean, that was, I was, I mean, maybe I shouldn't have been shocked, but I think that was one of the most, like, that got, I probably got one of the biggest responses from any, you know, media hits I did when I was going out with the book.
38:52And I think that, I mean, it's interesting, right? I mean, that man about town is kind of what the magazine editor used to be, right? And, like, I think it would be sort of a step up where, you know, you're hosting the Man of the Year Awards or you're doing a Super Bowl thing. And, like, I mean, Chris has, like, a celebrity circle, but this would be, like, another level. And, you know, I don't know if that's the sort of thing he – I don't know whether that's what he's looking to do. but he's a person who went to Charlie XCX's wedding so I think it is
39:27but it's the question is like what what would his for all of these people I don't I can't Chris is the this is the reason it's sticking with me he's the only one where I could see what his GQ would look like I don't know what Sam's would look like I don't know what Will is but maybe Will is a little bit I don't know what this Adam characters would look like I know what Chris's GQ would look like and to me that's exciting and I think the Mark thing which we can talk about next is like evident of that like I'm not shocked by any of the stuff Mark is doing but I'm enjoying it but yeah I think like that's the one the one thing and who knows again this is all up in the air and hopefully there will be some good reporting in the next couple weeks I don't think they're gonna I think they're gonna move fast I don't think I don't think this is gonna i think will is out feb 15th right i think like they gotta get this sorted soon and and it's just tricky because it just feels like there's less people to ponder this time i don't know yeah i think that's right and i think just to transition i think to the mark questions that you you want to talk about like i do think there's like two types of editors and one is the sort of like a visionary editor who like leads with like a really specific vision and like idiosyncratic and like has really specific tastes and then there's like a crowd pleasing editor who like wants who wants to serve their audience before they serve themselves and i think that the publications that are more fun to read are actually the ones that are not so focused on serving their audience and are more about like this one particular creative brain and their expression of their creativity.
41:13Yeah. Yeah. I think like a great example, and I mentioned this, I think in the Will post, and I hate to call her out, but it's okay. She can handle it. It's Sam Berry, who I think has done a great job trying to sell that magazine, but does not clearly doesn't have an idea of what glamour should be. And glamour is hard enough because it's like a CPG and the advertising all fell out. It wasn't going to, again, like she set up to fail. But I think it's a great example of like, look at GQ men of the year versus women of the year for glamour, like, and how those, those things have evolved since these people have been the editors.
41:52I think she, she was probably not the right pick for this modern time of you need someone who's very niche, who can like focus on one thing to make it feel universal instead of the trying to please everybody. And so it's tricky. We'll see. I mean, if anybody knows who is actually going to get this job, please message all of us at the same time. Okay, let's talk about Mark and do a temp check on Mark Guaducci, who has had two issues of Vanity Fair come out. He's had an Olivia Nuzzi scandal, full-blown scandal. He's had they announced the new partnership with LACMA for the Vanity Fair party. How do you all feel about Mark's first few months?
42:43He started in August, his first few months on the job. Well, I'll say that I thought the Susie Wiles, you know, Trump White House piece was just a tremendous victory on every level. I mean, I think it harkened back to two different eras of Vanity Fair, actually. In the 1980s, Tina Brown brought in these kind of aggressive political reporters who made real political news. Gary Hart, he was trying to be Walter Mondale's vice presidential candidate in 1984. And the interview he gave to Gail Sheehy in Vanity Fair was the reason he got knocked out of the running for that. And then what Graydon did in having Annie Leibovitz go shoot George W.
43:30Bush's cabinet is like one of the best kind of, I think, one of the highlights of his tenure and our incredibly memorable photos. And it was kind of provocative because, you know, it's not like Vanity Fair's readership was looking for a glamorization of the Bush administration. But I think that made it all the more exciting. So to see, you know, an article that was so newsy that I think the New York Times like wrote a front page story about what was in it. That was like how a lot of the news came out and had real waves in Washington, real waves in that White House. I know the photos then became controversial.
44:08I'm totally blank on the photographer, but they were like fabulous. Yeah. These up close black and white portraits. It started the debate. Was he making them more grotesque than they were? You know, what were the ethics of this photo shoot? Just the fact that there was such a conversation around a Vanity Fair feature. Yeah. That to me felt like that was like exactly what I think Mark wanted to do coming in, put this magazine back into the discussion. And he knocked it out of the park with that. Totally agree. What else do you think, Jess, about Mark's tenure? I mean, it's really early and I'm still like absorbing.
44:47You know, I'm a subscriber to the print publication. I look forward to getting the February issue that has, I think, Tayana Taylor on the cover. But I think he's made smart hires. You know, I'm particularly fond of Jose, who's writing some stories. And I, yeah, I agree that that Trump story was a huge victory. I think that the... I think he needed it after what happened with Olivia, which also, of course, was related to Trump and to the political storyline. And there was like, what, the prospect that Olivia would be writing political features, which immediately became very problematic. So it also was a it was the corrective he really needed at that point.
45:24Yeah, totally. And I think like people were I don't think there was like a sense of underwhelm about the the first his first issue, the Hollywood issue. But I do think it was so overshadowed by that drama. and the painting the painting and I will say like I one thing I was really curious when that Hollywood issue came out and it focused on men and masculinity is like the whole time I was like what does Will Welch think of this because it felt like GQ's really had been writing and covering the sort of evolution of masculinity over the past few years and that was like Will's sort of you know reason behind his his whole like ethos and I think that But I was surprised to see like Vanity Fair really dip into those same waters, like even having like a sort of literary essay to accompany that photo shoot with, who wrote that?
46:17Otessa. Oh, yeah. And Theo Winner did the shoot. I totally agree. I was surprised by that, too, because I think one real strength of Will's GQ that I think whoever succeeds him is going to have to really sort of stay focused on is that we're actually at this moment where like masculinity is like a major debate and discussion. like what does it mean to be a man like in the culture right now and gq's done these they did this fantastic survey of college students like a couple months ago um one of will smart hires was sasha much nick from who did social at the cut and i think that she worked on this project where they were interviewing college like just male college students around the country and it was like it was just innovative they had a great digital presentation it felt like you know had a little mark gravitas the usual gq thing um i think you know i get i get why mark was like Like it was fun for the boys or whatever the cover line was, but it also felt a little duplicative of like what we'd been seeing in GQ for a few months before that.
47:12Yeah. Although the thing I loved the most about the fashion in that cover was that they were really mixing brands in a way that I find totally refreshing and totally against like this terrible pattern in fashion magazines or this terrible practice in fashion magazines of full look like mandate from the brands. Like it was so fun to see like Abercrombie shorts with a Saint Laurent like blazer or something like that was really cool. But I think his biggest test is ahead of him with Oscars party in March. I agree. And I think it's interesting. I obviously a clock that there was conversation for several months about masculinity.
47:54As I always like to say, men are back. but uh it didn't bother me i was really obsessed with the savviness of that boys cover in that he was sort of mirroring what jonathan anderson did at dior with theo and the sort of bruce weber throwback and then also all the cute boys or whatever and kind of hiding the fact that he probably couldn't have gotten everybody he couldn't get everybody he wanted to get that type of thing and i i like specifically probably couldn't get bruce weber exactly well yeah i think that would have gone one step too far yeah one although many magazines do it was it was the closest to get yeah to get yeah yeah um but i thought and i thought the nuzzy stuff until it until we found out the the second part of it i was like whatever i i don't i think obviously this is a stunt, but I think it sort of fell, it went further than he probably ever imagined it could because she had not, clearly had not disclosed everything to everybody.
49:02But anyway, most people listening to this podcast don't probably know who Olivia Nuzzi is, so let's keep it that way. And the mix is the most important part of that. I mean, that's what, that's sort of the Tina Brown lesson. And I know, and you know what I really appreciate about Mark is just how much he like is a student of sort of the classic Vanity Fair. And I think he's, you know, he spent time with Tina, he spent time with Graydon, you know, he has a real respect for those who came before him. And I think he's been really trying to find that high-low mix that I think is what makes VF such a great read.
49:39Yeah. And I think the party's going to be awesome. Like he partnered with LACMA on this new wing. I asked Matt Bellany about this and I said, do you think this is tacky? And he was like, no, I think it's really savvy. Like it is, it's, I, it's going to be a big, it's going to have to be big because he has to invite advertisers. They can't make it tiny and not invite advertisers anymore. It's the days of that are over. And so it's going to be a big thing. And I think it's going to be fun. And, you know, his real competition, I would say, and Jess and I were both there is Sarah Moonves' tiny but sponsored W Magazine party that she does before the Globes.
50:22It's like super fun and all the celebrities show up and Christian Louboutin sponsors it and he's dancing the dance floor with Kendall Jenner or whatever. And it's off the record, but they invite reporters anyway. And it feels like a fun time. And Mark's thing is obviously a much bigger scale thing but Sarah is gaining a lot of power in Hollywood she already had a lot but like you can feel it and so that's to me they are the two that are really competing right now for like mind share and advertising and all that stuff and they have such different points of view too You know, I think like Sarah is such a sort of, for lack of a better word, like a nerd for like photography and like and can do the sort of avant garde, more like artistic thing.
51:19I think Vanity Fair still has to be a mainstream magazine. But don't forget that like Sarah also runs the business for W. So she doesn't have to like answer to a business side that is making certain demands, whatever this might be.
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52:25I thought we would talk about Radhika Jones' upcoming memoir, but we don't have to. I don't know if you all have any opinions about it. We should say, because I just stumbled on it yesterday, Am I right in saying it is a memoir about books or books she has read? I think it's like a My Life in Books kind of concept that just from reading the publisher's weekly screenshot. I'm going to buy it. I'm going to read it. I hope you secure an interview with her, Jess. The book Tina did after she sprawled out of Talk Magazine was her delectable biography of Princess Diana. Oh, yes. It's so good. Vanity Fair Diaries, obviously, a must read.
53:05If there are people who are listening to this who haven't read that, leave this podcast right now and pick it up, along with Michael's book, obviously. The VF Diaries make a great audiobook, too. She just has this wonderful voice. But I'm most excited about Jane Pratt's memoir coming out this year. I think it's going to be like, I think she's going to go for it. I think she's going to say everything that she wants to say. And it's not going to be one of these books that we saw last year that were like felt like they were holding back, you know, the sort of juice. As the number one Jane Pratt fan, huge reason I became a fashion journalist.
53:43Love her. When she came on my podcast, I truly started crying. I don't cry. I was like, I can't. I mean, I've met her many times, but it just like is very emotional for me. Her and Liz Tilbaris, that was like my I wanted to be a cross between them. Anyway, my one concern is that she is so open and honest that she has said all the she has told all the stories. I don't know. I with her, I just feel like maybe there are. Well, yeah. So even if she has told all of them, there's still going to be a discovery of them for like the non super fans such as. And I will say when I talk to her from my Condé book, she definitely was.
54:21I just I sense she was holding back a few things for for her memoir. And so I remember saying to her, I was just like, well, I just can't wait to read what you what you're going to come up with. So that makes me feel better. OK, so a couple final questions. Do you think that Condé Nast is suddenly a better place to work? And maybe we can discuss what happened with Gourmet in the context of that question. I want to say something, which is that I think that Condé Nast has a positive story to tell that they're not telling. So I was really struck when the whole Teen Vogue thing happened where they folded it into Vogue.
54:58You know, these writers were let go. There was sort of this firestorm over, you know, Teen Vogue had been like an anti-Trump publication and were they, you know, acquiescing or something like that. And I was like, you know, The New Yorker and Wired have some of the most aggressive coverage of this White House of like any publication. I mean, Wired was breaking all this news about Elon Musk and Doge. And, you know, the idea that Kanye West is like one of the only big media companies that hasn't like surrendered or sort of shown some kind of like, you know, capitulation to to this administration.
55:38I shouldn't say that. I mean, but, you know, we've seen that happen at ABC and CBS, which are, you know, much larger media organizations than Condé. So like the fact that they kind of weren't able to get a hold of that narrative and it just turned into like a week and a half's worth of like Condé is a horrible place to work. Like, I felt that that was Condé. That was on Condé for not managing that news, for not like actually emphasizing the parts of this company that are succeeding right now and doing good journalism in an impossible environment for journalists. And I just think like, I don't know, I think part, I think they create a lot of problems for themselves.
56:17Preach. A hundred percent. It's so frustrating. It's so frustrating. exciting i'll also say like i think a lot of people have been in all of our dms recently just being like god what is going on over there like what a what a mess and like i do think that i agree with mike there's a positive story to be told but there's also like i have this idea that there's maybe never been a more fun time to be a magazine editor there i know you don't agree with this but no i i i half and half i think it's like i think the odds are against that like you can produce your best work when you're coming from like an underdog positioning the problem is the company at large for reasons described in mike's book empire of elite 40 off on amazon is that like i don't think the company will ever let go of its um positioning as or its desired positioning as like a luxury, high end, top of culture, top of, you know, wealth and finger on the pulse kind of thing.
57:21Like, I think if they truly embraced this like underdog, like dynamic, you have all these millennial editors coming in who have who are so well positioned to like turn rags into riches because that's like what their generation knows best. And they could really like have some fun and be scrappy and be weird and get attention. And I hope they do. But I think like their parent company might get in the way a little bit unless it lets go of that like posturing that it's held on to for decades. I agree with half of that. One is I don't think I think it could still be luxury and elite and all that stuff.
57:56I think we both work. We all work at places that have proven that you can have fun while managing your business properly. Like know You're right that all these millennials, they know that they aren't going to have budgets like they used to, and they're not dreaming of that. Because they never realized it. Neither of you have ever worked there, right? No. No. Okay, I worked there for two years, from 2011 to the end of 2012. And I was the executive online editor of Lucky Magazine. And I reported directly to the editor-in-chief, who was Brandon Hawley. And what I will say is the problem, the problem is, and I agree that like, I think Mark is having fun or I hope Mark is having fun.
58:44I think Chloe seems to be having fun. They just launched Vogue Book Club, Wuthering Heights. Like, great. I, I think I'm so into it. Like, thank God it's not an Emily Henry novel. Like, this is, this is it. You could still be a leader. Like, obviously the movie's coming out and stuff. But I think the problem is like I have to tell you all, yes, I'm a reporter and that's why I shouldn't have had that job. It was the worst job. I've never I've liked every other job I've ever had. It was terrible. The three days in, I remember I ran into Eric Wilson, former New York Times reporter, and I said, I'm just going to stay a year and use it as like just to observe how they work because it was so terrible.
59:26And I'm sure like these jobs suck. Like they are just awful. All you do is you go in meetings and they tell you can't do anything and blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. And I think I'm I hope that that's changing now that there is a new generation of leadership. and and it does feel like if I was 27 years old I would want to work for Mark I would want to work for Will or Chloe like they seem fun nice interesting people trying to do interesting things but there is a lot of and I do think it's changed this is a great thing that's changed under Roger Lynch there is a lot of um the legacy stuff has been pulled away because a lot of those legacy executives have been moved out.
1:00:11But the problem is, as we're talking about what happened during that Teen Vogue thing, what were they thinking? The union workers storming Stan's office? Just manage it. None of that has to happen. And we all can see it from the outside. And it feels like it does feel like they're doing themselves a disservice when you're right about the fact, Jess, that like being scrappy and doing stuff creatively right now, there is a big opportunity there. And everyone who's 45 or younger, like understands that. And, you know, I'm really 50 and younger at this point. Like I'm getting up there. So, like, it is is I just think that.
1:01:03Unfortunately, we are going to have to do their PR, essentially. Look, I mean, it is so, so hard to turn an institution like that. And The New York Times went through that sort of growing pain process of like even getting people to experiment and innovate, you know, took a long time. Now, I mean, in a way, like, Condé has done that stuff, the test kitchens, the, you know, the video. But I mean, of course, all those had their own bumps in the road. I do sometimes wonder, I mean, they're sort of, they're also in a bit of a, like, Anna is so powerful and in so many ways, like, provides the power of the place.
1:01:44But of course, she is just from a different generation. And I think it's great that there are younger editors who are finally taking over these magazines, but they all are reporting up to her. And I think Anna has many talents, but there is something to be said when you look back through the history of Condé Nast. You know, it was known for these ruthless firings of editors where they just after 20 years, they'd be tossed out the door. But, you know, the reason Diana Vreeland was fired was because Vogue was not relevant anymore and it was starting to lose money and it was just not in touch with the culture.
1:02:20and as brilliant a fashion editor she was, she wasn't, you know, attuned to, you know, femininity in the 1970s, which was, you know, where the magazine had to go. And Conde's only, you know, its cultural currency is what gives it its influence. And, you know, there's a point where they're just going to have to, like, jump off the diving board and kind of hand it off to the next generation. If they want to survive, yeah. So what, can we talk briefly about what happened was Gourmet that just wrote about this yesterday? Yeah. Five journalists basically joined forces to apply for the trademark that Conde had let lapse.
1:03:05Gourmet shuttered in 2009, but they had kept renewing the trademark, which lasts 10 years. And but I think that there is a sort of trademark law where you have to, if you're going to hold on to it for 10 years, you have to use it. And I think in this last decade, they hadn't used it or they simply forgot to renew it. Something happened. They didn't renew it. And a journalist, this journalist, Sam Dean, who used to work at the L.A. Times and has worked up on a petite in the past, realized this and got together and formed a sort of worker-owned publication similar to Defector for Media, Hellgate, if anyone is familiar with those publications.
1:03:45and they're putting out a newsletter, turning into a newsletter. Just the idea that Condé's IP department would not realize that Gourmet was going to lapse and they would lose control of it. I mean, we haven't actually gotten comment from them on this, right? We don't quite know what happened. But from the outside, it's like... They haven't commented on this. Shocking to you, I know. It's just... And, you know, Jess's article, which everyone should read because it's it's it's a great piece. You had like 400 comments on there on the New York Times website. And yes, I understand like New York Times readers are older, just as most like legacy media readers are.
1:04:27But God, the memories people have about gourmet and like, you know, how much it means to them and people still have their old issues and their old recipes. I'm just sitting there like just do something with it. Like you'll get a response. And like the fact that they were so lackadaisical to let it lapse is like, it's not a good situation. Yep. Final question, you all. Do you think that the editors of the magazines, of the papers, of the whatever they're called now, are contractually obligated to thank Stan Duncan in their Instagram posts? Because I noticed Mark did it. I believe Chloe did it. Will did it.
1:05:04They all thank Roger Lynch, the CEO, Anna Wintour, and Stan Duncan. And I just think it's I love our our head of people, Amy. I'm not thanking her in my Instagram post about anything. I don't know. I mean, what do you think? I would say Kané Nast is a place where managing up is one of the most important skills you can have to climb the pole. So it's possible that it's kind of just ingrained in everyone there. I can't speak to sort of Stan's individual charisma. Given Stan's like larger than life presence in line sheet, I just think it's funny. It is really funny. He's a line sheet character. He's one of your...
1:05:45Yeah, he's a regular. He really likes going to fashion shows. And then every time he goes, even if I'm not at the show, someone calls me and is like, Stan went this time.
1:05:58He did a red carpet photo at the Met. Don't do that. Just don't do it. It's like you're an HR guy. I understand like maybe you could be the CEO of Chanel someday. Lena Nair used to be an HR person, but like she was an HR person at Unilever, not Conde Nast, a private company that makes less than two billion dollars a year or whatever. Before we go, do we think that Zoran is going to go to the Met Gala? Yeah, this has been a big topic of conversation for me just with my old fashioned friends. I don't think he's going to go. I think he should go but I don't think he's going to I think it's like going it's too it's too dangerous it's too at odds I think I think that his team is so savvy that they'll probably find something else splashy for him to do that night as like counter programming but Eric Adams went I think Bill de Blasio went once that could be wrong somebody fact check me but uh he could go I just don't think he will I think he might be too cautious to go this year but I think eventually he will show up.
1:07:01I think what AOC did with the tax the rich dress, that's the closest parallel here where you have another democratic socialist. Like, how do you reconcile the fact that this is like the most lavish elite event of the year? And yet also like one of the most, you know, beloved New York City institutions and you're raising money for art. And I think I mean, this is like a whole podcast in itself, but Rama, First Lady Rama, I also think, you know, she is a big supporter of um the arts well and also designers also um of what's this uh emerging designers is the phrase and i do think that like the chance for if she like the the exposure that one of these designers would get to like have rama wear their dress at the med gala would be astrid i mean that would change their life and like there's a there's a question in my mind like you know yeah like whatever it's elite or something like that but i mean she's kind of then holding back like it would be light changing for someone to hold her where my question is what is his sort of what does he want to do after this what is his ambition because i agree i think she wears colleen allen it is it's big for everyone involved um not being living in new york and and observing all this has been fascinating for me because i feel really connected to the city but And as I think I said this on a previous podcast, this is the first time where I've this feels there are a lot of people who vote Democrat who are like, I didn't vote for him.
1:08:36Like, like, it's just it's really polarizing in a way. Whereas, like, you know, all those Republicans who say they didn't vote for Trump and actually did. I feel like there are a lot of Democrats that didn't vote for Zoran that say they did. But I also think there's a lot of people who never voted before who came out. But I think like, I don't know. We live in a world where he should be able to and F you to everyone. But I think a question is like, who's a sponsor? Is it Amazon or is it a bank or whatever? And are people not gonna be smart enough to put two and two together for that year? And then also like the long-term thing is, I don't know what the long-term damage would be and also what he wants to do after he does this.
1:09:28So I think they should do it because it's supporting an institution in New York. Whether or not they will, I don't know. Maybe we're putting too much emphasis. How damaging could it actually be? I think it depends on who they wear and how they act at these things. that type of thing. I could see him punting this year and coming back when he has a little more time to gauge things. Yeah, yeah, yeah. But he is a master of, like, image and public. I mean, he's... Fascinating. He's great at it, so... Yeah, it would capture so many headlines. And I think it'd be very good for Vogue and The Met to have him there.
1:10:12But I agree. I think he... Great for suit supply. That too. Oh, yeah. This was great, guys. You're the best. read Michael and Jess on the newyorktimes.com. Buy Michael's book. And I'm sure that we'll have another reason to do this soon. We love you. Fashion people. Come to New York soon, Lauren. I will. I'm I'll be there February 7th. I'll see you. Thanks for having us. Bye everybody. Fashion people is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. This show was produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to our executive producers, Puck co-founder John Kelly, executive editor Ben Landy, and director of editorial operations, Gobby Grossman.
1:10:59An additional thanks to the team at Odyssey, J.D. Crowley, Jenna Weiss-Berman, and Bob Tabador. This episode is brought to you by Athletic Brewing Company. No matter how you do game day, on the couch, in the crowd, or manning the snack table, Athletic Brewing fits right in. With a full lineup of non-alcoholic beer styles, you can enjoy bold flavors all game long. No hangovers, no buzz, no subbing out for water in the second half. Stock the fridge for tip-off with a variety of non-alcoholic craft styles available at your local grocery store or online at athleticbrewing.com. Your beer, fit for all times.
From the publisher
New York Times reporters Jessica Testa and Michael Grynbaum join Lauren for a very special episode about the current state of legacy publisher Condé Nast. (Remember, Michael wrote a book about Condé Nast. called The Empire of the Elite.) They discuss Will Welch’s exit from GQ (and potential replacements), if Mark Guiducci is doing a good job at Vanity Fair, and whether every Condé Nast editor is contractually obligated to thank H.R. lord Stan Duncan in their departure (or arrival).
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