Jonathan's Dior and Bezos’s Tux

0:04Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is High Snobiety Editor-in-Chief Noah Johnson with a report from Milan Fashion Week. We're also chatting about Jonathan Anderson's Dior debut, Jeff Bezos' wedding look, Travis Kelsey's fashion evolution, and plenty more. Happy Tuesday, everyone. I'm in Paris for the briefest of trips, but as always, I'm having a great time. Tonight, I am co-hosting a Puck private dinner with the folks from shop by Tiffany Lipinski and Anisha Kamat. Very excited to see lots of my Paris friends.

0:49I think this is the third. Yes, this is the third dinner we've hosted in Paris. And as always, it's off the record. It's a small group. People chat about stuff that I won't be chatting about on here, but I'm really looking forward to catching up with people. And by the way, if you are interested in doing one of these with me, I do one every couple of months. You can message Alexandra at puck.news. I really love doing these dinners. They're a very effective tool for the brands that I partner with, and they're really fun too. It's my kind of event. So let's do one together. In Monday's line sheet, I am looking at Lauren Sanchez's relationship with the fashion industry in particular and how that may evolve after her wedding to Jeff Bezos.

1:37I also reveal what she's slated to wear to the wedding ceremony with plenty of other fun details. And on Tuesday, Sarah Shapiro has a great piece about what the sourcers are sourcing. So revealing what the big items of the seasons are for the Gab Wallers of the world. It's kind of a throwback to the what the buyers are buying that the trades used to do and still do sometimes, but feels more of the moment to talk about what the sourcers are sourcing in season anyway. And there are a lot of great bags, including ones that I've seen on the street. So proof of concept. Anyway, we've got a lot to cover with Noah.

2:18So let's get going.

2:22Noah Johnson, welcome to Fashion People. Thank you, Lauren. Hello. How are you? I'm well. It's been a long time coming. You know, I texted you about doing an entire hour on Evan Canory and you ignored me. Yeah, I'm still thinking about it. I just haven't had a chance to get back to you on that one yet. But here we are. We'll move ahead with this one first. You know, I just want to say on the Evan Canory thing, because it's a little bit for me, I don't know if you've noticed. Not just you. Here's the thing. I respect your love of Evan Canory. I understand it. To me, it's actually how I feel about high sport, which is that I'm a big fan of high sport and I am friends with Alyssa.

3:02I think the only difference is if high sport raises a ton of money and Alyssa doesn't want me to write about it, I'm still going to. you know people ask me about it a lot and recently um i got a message from mary choi a friend who's a writer and she was like what's your relationship with evan kenori like what's going on here because i get i get it like i'm an editor and i i i post i seem to have this like unusually close relationship with this brand and designer which is what it is and my response i wanted to pull it up because i thought i remembered it being helpful but it's like we're very good friends I've done a little work with him like in terms of just like helping him get organized helping him yeah write and edit some things but he's just a very good friend who makes what I think are the best clothes in the world and things I like to wear the most and so there's just a uh yeah that's that's really all it is I I understand I also think something that your cohort of editors did when you were at GQ and now at High Stobiety you're doing it too but But you really got behind, you get behind designers and make them a thing.

4:11Like today, there was something in the news that Lily Chavaria has spoken to Fendi about a potential job. The likelihood of that, I think, is extremely low. And you can read in line sheet on Tuesday why. But I think that the brands that the menswear community in the U.S. in particular... get behind do become something and because you all are very I don't know you're you're enthusiasts as well and so it's it's totally valid it is fun to tease you about it but but I also respect it yeah I don't know menswear is a little smaller you know to me I've said this before like I think people should have a personal relationship with the people that make the clothes they wear it doesn't mean you're like good friends but i i do think some level of familiarity is good um just in general a good a good sort of practice whether that means you can like text them or just means you sort of know who they are and what they're all about um but yeah i think maybe menswear uniquely sort of i don't know has has more of these relationships than women's wear typically does just because the market's a lot smaller and um there's more of a feeling of i I was going to say more of a feeling of camaraderie.

5:32That's probably not quite right, but just the conditions allow for it. Yeah. No, I think that it's true. I dip into menswear more than most women's people who cover women's wear do. And I've been to Pittiwomo and I've been to some men's shows. And I do think it's just a closer, a more tight knit community and there is, there's competition, but it's just in a different way. And I also think a lot of the menswear designers are your peers in some ways, whereas the women's wear designers, definitely some of them are our peers too, but I'd say in menswear, that's even more so and not saying you're just bro-ing out, but in a way.

6:20A little bit. A little bit. And I am, when I think about the designers I'm actually friends with, most of them are men. I mean, most men are designers also. So that's, that's another story for another day, but question for you. Do you go backstage at Prada in particular when you're talking about getting to know the designers? Cause I find, even though it's such a shit show back there that going to that backstage, I feel like I really know those people from listening what they have to say. Yeah, I mean, for instance, in this show in particular, there was no backstage. Rafa and Mrs. Prada came out and spoke.

6:59Oh, that's great. Yeah. And it was just a very, very large mob of people. They just sort of stepped outside of the doorway and spoke there. And, you know, you had your Sam Hines and your Luke Leach's like right up there in front. And I sort of kind of hung out and let the journalists get closest and tried to hear, but I couldn't hear much. So I'm not in good practice with that. I mean, I used to do that ages ago. You know, my time at GQ, we had, again, Sam Hine, who's amazing, who was kind of handling that, and I could kind of hang in the back. But you still go back. Yeah. Why do you go back if you're not going to just to see the vibe and see what people are saying?

7:39Exactly. Catch a vibe, hear what they're saying, hopefully get like a moment or two of FaceTime. You know, I mean, I'm the editor-in-chief of a magazine. It's nice for there to be some recognition there, a little bit of relationship. I wouldn't say I'm trying to make friends with anyone, but if we had any sort of point in commonality, you know, if Raston was a tennis player, I'd probably get back there and start shooting the show with him and saying, if you want to go hit a few balls with me, sure. Do you go to any trainers in L.A. for tennis? No. I've played a little bit of live ball in tennis and hit a little bit with Kyle from Braindead.

8:18He's kind of like the LA tennis guy I know, but I haven't really cracked LA tennis all that much. Have you played at Silver Top? Is that, what is that? It's in Silver Lake. It's that the guy from Apple or from Beats owns the house and that guy, you know, that you've probably played there. Yeah, I want to play there. I need someone needs to invite me or something. How do I get? You need to talk to Chris Black. All right. Yeah. As with as with many things with everything. So tell me about the shows. I thought Prada looked really good. What else? Milan Fashion Week for men's is pretty truncated at this point, but there's still Xenia.

8:59There's still two Armani shows. There's still Prada. What did you think this season? So I thought Milan was like insanely boring. I couldn't wait to get out of there. I left a day early just to get to Paris, and I immediately felt tremendous relief. Xenia didn't show, I think, right? Because they showed in Dubai a week ago. Oh, that show was in Dubai. I didn't even realize that. I thought it was in Milan. I missed Emporio, but I heard mixed things. I thought Armani is like glorious. So basically, I go and I saw three things. Our Legacy, who has really sort of made their mark on Milan. They've chosen that as their kind of home base, which I think is smart because they really start the season.

9:40It's the first brand so many buyers see. And they can really have a pretty significant kind of footprint there. And Our Legacy is a super strong collection. And then I saw Prada, which I liked. I think there were mixed feelings about it, but I thought it was pretty good. And then I saw Armani. So that's it. I saw three things. Two of them were runway shows and I left. do you get a sense by the end of paris of like a real feeling of the season or is that less prevalent in men's whereas women's you like real by the time yumu hits at the end of tuesday in paris or sometimes it's saint laurent you really feel like this is what the season was about is menswear like that as much or is it more incremental.

10:27I don't feel it like that as much. I think it's way more incremental and way more, there's just a really broad, there's just a lot of sort of range. I always find it really hard to come down with sort of a clear narrative. And I'm very skeptical when other people do. I think you see it a little more in what people are wearing sort of in the street, you know, like that's kind of where maybe the story starts to take shape and you can start to kind of, I don't know make make a generalization like that um but yeah I mean just based on what we just saw in Milan it's like uh you know yeah not much not not much I mean they should just maybe combine them but they have to remember there used to be a London men's I know not too long ago and they tried New York many times but that never really stuck um yeah I saw Gian posted that a lot of guys were wearing white sneakers at Pitti.

11:26Okay. I don't know if you noticed that. The revival of the Common Project, maybe? I don't know. I'm not ready for that one. I mean, sure. I feel like you could any summer of any year, the last 50 years, you could go out there and say a lot of guys are wearing white sneakers. But I don't know. I didn't make it to Pitti. But it's so hot. Like, it's a little bit of a cheat because everyone is just like in a boxy T-shirt, some very normal big pants and weird shoes. I don't notice white sneakers. I notice every guy's in like a leopard print mule or something. The shoes are weird. Everything else is like aggressively normal and a little like TikTok-ish, you know?

12:04There's still like that like boxy tee and a mullet and a chain and maybe like a slightly flared pant. Weird shoes though. Yeah. That's interesting. I did see a guy at Cookbook on Larchmont in Common Projects on a Saturday. And I was like, were they new? No, they were. Well, it was it was the kind of guy that maybe cleans his shoes enough that they were 10 years old. Yeah, that's the kind of guy, you know, Larchmont. It's not common to see them, though. No, I don't think so. I mean, I feel like you still see some just kind of like holdovers, like a guy who bought them at Stephen Allen 12 years ago, like when they were opening Tribeca.

12:50And like, yeah, they still work, you know, that kind of guy. Did you wear them back then? Yeah, definitely. I also wore them. I was very into them. I wore the high tops I really liked. And I didn't wear like white low tops, though. I liked when it was like, actually, I wore, yeah, they were like some good tonal ones. Hell yeah. I was very psyched on comic projects. I agree. I like them very much. And they, for me, were instead of wearing the Adidas shoe that Phoebe Philo wore. Sambas. Sambas. Were they sambas? No, I'm sorry. Stan Smiths. Stan Smiths. Yes. I really tried to wear Stan Smiths. Like I got the raft Stan Smiths, but I was like, this is not me.

13:32But the Common Projects, I thought I would wear them forever. I mean. Such a class. They'll come back. They were$400, but they were heavy and sturdy. I was younger and wasn't really shopping and stuff at the time. It was like those in a pair of APC jeans. You felt like you had the ultimate evergreen, high-quality, super durable, cool guy kind of outfit. Totally classics. Now you're not wearing them. I'm not wearing either. What shoes are you wearing? What's your shoe of the moment? Right now I have on these La Mer. I really like the La Mer little slipper with a crepe sole. Oh, nice. I've been wearing these for like a couple of years.

14:16Those are trending. I used to have those in like a chukka boot, but they're not. Those are trending in LA. La Mer is a big LA brand, but I never wear it there. I don't know why. Yeah. Yeah. Now that I'm in Paris, I get a little like embarrassed with them because I will see them everywhere here. So I might be wearing more of my Aurora shoes, which are like a funny kind of pilgrim shoe with a strap. They're kind of wide like a Birkenstock. And they're the only shoes made in New York. Oh, wow. Which is cool. And I have like a Bay suede pair that I really like. And then, yeah. You need to get a Shop My link and post them on your social so you can get some conversions.

14:59I don't think they're doing any affiliate program with Aurora, but maybe. I like to hey look I like to uh you know it's not always about getting a kickback just to drop drop a little it's not no I don't know it's not for me no um I'm wearing La Mer shorts right now but again I do wear these and I have a pair of La Mer sandals that I brought that I got last June but I don't know it's very interesting like it's just I used to wear it constantly in New York and LA I think it's because I just wear sweatshirts and jeans in LA and that's that's it but it's just elegant to it's it's too my style has gotten a little more basic bitch since moving to LA like I wear a lot of Charvet shirts yeah not that basic but yeah but like basic in that no one that I'm hanging out with there realizes it's a shirt.

16:04They just are like she wears button downs all the time. I wear like vintage jeans, button downs, like a blazer and a t-shirt and a heel. Whereas in New York I wore a lot more drapey or stuff and I don't know. It's just my style has gotten a little more classic if you want to say since I moved to LA. It might have happened had you stayed in New York anyway. You know, times. It's true. Taste changing with the style anyway. But, I mean, with the times anyway. But the other show I'm wearing a lot is Mephistos. Oh, yeah. Which are like, you know, kind of a grandpa sneaker. But that's actually probably been my most gone to sneaker of the year or shoe of the year.

16:48I have several pairs. I have considered it, but I have not gone there yet. I haven't seen women really do it, to be honest. Not that you shouldn't. Rory Satran did a great piece in the journal about the one Mephisto that Becky Malinsky is a fan of it also that women are wearing. And I have gone to buy it. And then I just don't pull the trigger. Yeah. I mean, it's a commitment. But, you know. Comfort. Made in France. Comfortable. It's true.

17:47for only one euro per month on shopify.com. On the street. Speaking of made in France, what are you excited about this week? We're in Paris. Paris Fashion Week is upon us. Well, the real thing that gets me going is like a million little brands I see on the street throughout my day that are friends or just brands I was interested in, you know, from afar and drop in to meet for the first time. um the big shows obviously uh jw and jonathan anderson will show dior for the first time i don't know anything about it except the show is extremely small um and he teased with a couple andy warhol images which i thought was disappointing um oh interesting see i liked it but i'm i'm a real i'm a real like whatever he does i'm like sure that's fine well me too i think I have but maybe my that's why I had a really high expectation that I'm just like really like the most famous artist of the 20th century.

18:52That's what and like same when Raph did it at Calvin Klein. I was just like, are we this is like, is this just the flex to get the estate of Andy Warhol and Basquiat to allow you to use this? Is that what this is that what I'm supposed to like get here? I mean, Basquiat looks cool in that photo, but like. Here's what I would say that Dior is a giant brand. it's like 10 billion dollars a year so it has to be mass and the reason i like the images he also did a whole podcast with hilton alz and whatever i look on the dior's instagram the thing that i thought was really clever about about it was that they dm'd a bunch of influencers being like to close friends here are the images and released it to them first which i thought was very smart because then all the influencers posted like look what I got my close friends um the thing I would say is those two images of Lee Radzwell and Jean-Michel Basquiat that the Polaroids from the 80s that Warhol took what I liked about it was the burgundy that she was wearing the turtleneck she's wearing it felt very now like I've been looking there, there's a pair of Kate and a pair of Saint Laurent burgundy shoes that I've been looking at.

20:16Like that's a color that it feels like extremely now. And the picture of her, I was like, okay, this is something I want to like buy into. And it felt comforting and familiar, but also different from what has been shown in the past. And then, and then the book bags, which I thought was interesting because I wonder if he will nod to Olympia Litan at all given that she is the one who sort of started that. I thought his interpretation of the book bag also, like the colors were right. He's just a really good art director. Yeah, looks great. I'm with you. Yeah, I get it. And even with the Basquiat image, it was like I looked again at the way, I think his ties over one point of the collar.

21:00Yeah. I just looked at that image in a new way and it absolutely like made me excited, interested. But it's a lot of pressure. It's just, it's a lot of pressure. And also he's obviously using pink and gray a lot, which are the Dior colors. And it's the thing I wrote on Monday is like, you're seeing all this stuff online and everyone's like, oh my God, it's so exciting. Maybe people will start buying this stuff again. And then you see there was a, they took out a full page ad in the New York Times on Sunday, not of this stuff not of a campaign not of like images but of maria grazia truri's in-season collection and it's just like ladies a photo of ladies with their bags and it's like but you're too it's like it's gonna take a while for them to get it all to the the place where it is really one Dior, as they say.

21:56But yeah, it's exciting. It's a lot of pressure for one person. I don't think he thinks of it that way, but I also don't think this isn't going to fix LVMH's problems. I think that's the thing that everybody needs to chill out. And I hope the clothes themselves are stuff that people want to buy. And the bags obviously are more important for for the masses but the guys are buying the kim jones clothes so so it needs to it needs to be something that guys who buy clothes buy yeah well he did it at lueve right 100 i just find it so disappointing that there's almost like it's just a given that he'd have to leave lueve one day like yeah get you know armani's been for designing for 60 years or something right and and he didn't come out at the shows this week because apparently he's unwell um and someone said it's the first show he's missed the Emporio and the GA showed this week are the first shows he's missed in 60 years he's never missed a show I have no idea if that's true I'd love to to find out um but you know like I love Margaret Howell she's been doing it for 55 years you know we all love Homme de Garçon you know I just it like these things take time it doesn't need to be six decades but like i don't know someone does a few years and they're so good it's like wow you're so good now you've earned the right to leave your job and get a new job and start over and i just find that so disappointing well i think one a just to say i thought the perfect magazine cover armani was amazing yeah it was so good it just like is like a real person yes it was amazing um the other but i mean here's the thing i don't think jonathan Anderson, he owns his own brand, which he clearly wants to keep going and has sacrificed, I think, a lot to make sure that he can.

23:58But most of these people who stick with it, it's their brand or it's a brand that they started at when they were young and they feel an ownership in it. Like you think about Maria Grazio-Curri and Pierre Paolo when they were at Valentino, that type of thing. the thing with these brands i think this is a career job this isn't and and my gut and just from the ambition of jonathan anderson was to either do louis vuitton or dior or gucci like one of the biggest brands in the world and control it because you should if you haven't listened to his uh belt the Bella Freud podcast with him, uh, fashion neurosis.

24:45He talks a lot about his ambition and it's, it was when everyone knew he was going to Dior, it was probably in December, but no one had actually said it. He, and he was campaigning for his, uh, Luca Guadagnino movie stuff, um, costume designing, but it's clear to me that he doesn't see this as his life's work. He sees it as a part of his life's work. So he wants to push himself and he is commercial. He wants people to buy the shit. And you're totally right. He could have done Loewe for 30 more years and it would have been amazing and it would have become a$5 billion dollar brand and it would have, he could have made it into that.

25:34But I think for him, those jobs are jobs and he wants to prove to himself that he can do more than anyone else did. Yeah. And so I get what you're saying and, and I agree. And it's going to be, I mean, I think, look, I think that what he left Loewe with is there's so much that they're going to be able to move on and and it will be it will morph into something else someday. But I do think there is. He is one of the first and Kim Jones, I guess, is another one. But there are a few of them who it really is about. I want to prove that I can do this better than anyone else. And like info. I was thinking about him today.

26:21He is sort of the A24 of designers, like all that stuff. Matt Bellany, who does our entertainment stuff at puck on his podcast, the like subject line of his podcast today was something about like Marvel's decline. And it is so much like all these indie the A24 neon, whatever, obviously they make no money compared to the big studios, but they are kind of overtaking our culture. And the same thing, he overtook the culture with Loewe. Charlie, the CMO, was named the 17th most powerful CMO by Forbes. I worked at Forbes, not sure about their methodology, but it's still very impressive. And I think maybe he's like well i want to prove that i can do it i can direct him or i'm i'm ryan kugler and i can direct a marvel movie and sinners yeah jonathan anderson is is like that so we'll see but he has a he has the right to go for the biggest job in his field and it was ignorant i mean you're totally right he has his own line so my whole my whole point is sort of well no it doesn't hold up that well because he does have his own line but i guess i guess i yeah it's just it's just been on my mind about how designers who really have a long time to develop something end up kind of having that longevity and having the great legacy and doing some of the best work

27:53who else are you excited about this week who's who's not one of these giant shows um well orally has been one of the strongest showings for the last few years now the japanese brand that's you know, makes pretty like normal clothes. It's co-ed. It's just like extremely well styled. It's styled by a French woman here whose name I forget, but she's really good. Charlotte Colette. She's my queen. She is awesome. She is so good. She does ballet too. She kills it. And of course, yeah, that's why ballet was so good. And so everyone loves that and it's tomorrow. So it'll be the same day as Louis Vuitton and St.

28:31Laurent is on the schedule, which is unusual for men. So that's exciting. I don't know the last time I saw St. Ernest Hill. So it's a huge day one. And the fun thing is always you get Orly and then you go see Louis Vuitton. So you get this sort of underground kind of whatever you want to call it, like the sort of indie cult niche brand that's extremely hot right now. And then you get the biggest brand of all brands. And you get to sort of compare and contrast and draw your conclusions about what it all means. So day one kind of is a big one. And I am, you know, Pharrell's got, I feel like he has a little bit of pressure on him too.

29:13You know, I think he needs to, the last show was not at the same level as the first couple shows. And I don't really know what's going on there. So I'm interested in sort of like getting a feel for that. And now that it's been out for a while, the cool thing is you see like the clients there. so you see like who's wearing it and who's wearing what and how are they wearing it and what's what's really what's really all happening there um that's what i can think of at the moment the the other japanese brand that's really has a ton of buzz is a press or a press a and uh they just do a showroom here but every men's store is buying it every every dude i know and every cool dude you know is buying it and trying to buy it and wanting to buy it and talking about it they're having a party this year with like a crazy lineup of DJs and like really going for it which is exciting and unusual I'm a big orally fan yeah and yeah the women's is as good as the men's which is also like not something you see that much for a sort of newer brand yeah I think well you know what I went to and I don't know if they're doing anything but I went I was in Copenhagen a few weeks ago and I went to the MF pen store.

30:26It's a little young for me. I did get a pair of pants because the pricing is just so good, but, and they're, they were cute, but, um, that brand is very interesting to me. So the price point is so on the money. And then also it just feels like I, I don't know if that guy can evolve it past what he does, which is like corporate corp core or whatever, but it It feels like there are a lot of sort of smaller menswear brands now that do have potential to scale pretty, pretty big. And I don't mean like giant, but have potential to scale. Do you feel like there are sort of more ambitious brands right now than maybe like they were inspired by the success of our legacy or or what?

31:16I don't know. I don't know either. I mean, it's not really the type of brand that I necessarily follow. I mean, there's no for a long time. There's been sort of no no middle, I feel, you know, which is not why our legacy is so strong, but I think it certainly helps. You know, you have sort of a crowded, busy top end of the market. And then you have a I'm not talking about like price necessarily. I just mean you have sort of like large conglomerate corporate fashion and then you have a million sort of indie brands to choose from. And then you have a middle, which is like not a really necessarily interesting place to be.

31:51And there aren't that many players in that space, you know. And our legacy really, really owned it. I don't know what I'm trying to think of like what else even comes to mind. I mean, we have a lot more to cover so we can just go. I mean, you're having a party on Wednesday. Yeah. High Snobiety is having a 20th birthday party. Actually, it's the 20th anniversary of High Snob, which is pretty amazing. And it's also the 20th anniversary of Our Legacy, speaking of, and it's the 20th anniversary of Telfar, and he just had that show in New York. Yeah. Which just made me really feel like these 20 years and the impact and how much cool shit started 20 years ago.

32:332005 is obviously an interesting year for a lot of reasons. You know, yeah, so we're having a party and launching a book. It's the second edition of a book with Gestalt and that we do. It's all about collaborations sort of over the years. It's pretty awesome. A lot of it was written by our friend Gian, who was an editor at High Stop years ago. It's really sick. And I'm psyched to be, you know, doing a party in Paris. So fun. Yeah, that's a really interesting point because it really is... The last 20 years is really when fashion became what... The fashion industry became the industry that we know it as.

33:10Yeah. So it's... And the young brands, the big brands, the small brands, the medium brands, Tory Burch started around that time. So many, like you, you name it. And, or if they, they didn't start at that time, they became giant in the last 20 years. So it's a good, it's a good point. Someone should do, do that book, not me. Okay. I want to do a, well, I'm excited to hear your take on all these shows on your social media or however you do it, but I want to do like a quick fire round of news from the past week. So the first thing is on Monday, I have a big piece about, I don't know if you heard, but Lauren Sanchez and Jeff Bezos are getting married on Friday in Venice.