La Double the Fun

25 Sep 2026 · 55 min · 23 chapters

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In short

The episode mixes two threads: a fashion-industry discussion of Vogue World and Milan’s evolving role, plus a deep interview with JJ Martin (La Double J) about building a Milan-rooted fashion and home brand, scaling it, and integrating spirituality/“energy” into product, stores, and partnerships.

Guest backgrounds

JJ Martin is the founder of La Double J. She moved to Milan 25 years ago from marketing work at Calvin Klein in New York, then worked as a fashion journalist/editor (Harper’s Bazaar, Wallpaper). She built her company from vintage obsession and Italian home/host culture.

Key claims

Milan’s internationalization is convenient but brings rent/property pressure; La Double J aims to be profitable by year two and “conscious fashion” without sales; spirituality became more public during COVID, aligning the brand’s mission “raise your vibration” with color, store design, and events.

Notable examples

La Double J’s Italy-made production; homeware as ~10% of turnover; collaborations with Pasalacqua, The Dorchester, and Belmond (Villa San Michele) including an “energy chapel”; New York flagship with a “temple”/vibration concept; fashion-week presence via non-traditional experiences (e.g., Galleria dance party, sound-healing sanctuary).

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

Tap a time to open that second in VO

Fashion Insights and Events

0:15 to 1:15

Explore recent fashion events and commentary on trends in Milan.

“IXL is an award-winning online learning platform that helps kids truly understand their schoolwork.”

Fashion Insights and Events

1:38 to 2:43

Explore recent fashion events and commentary on trends in Milan.

“It's their biggest launch in over a decade.”

Fashion Insights and Events

4:08 to 5:50

Explore recent fashion events and commentary on trends in Milan.

“Mine was wild and wonderful, but I got very little sleep.”

Cultural Shifts in Milan

6:00 to 7:48

Discuss the internationalization of Milan and its impact on local culture.

“it is and also like from a brand building perspective does it make sense because if yeah the people in the room might have a good time but like do people online watch it do they care.”

The Birth of La Double J

7:50 to 14:01

Learn about JJ Martin's journey to founding her fashion brand in Milan.

“it's afternoon your time, but think back eight hours.”

The Birth of Double J: Passion Meets Vintage

14:01 to 17:48

Discover how the founder's love for vintage led to the creation of Double J.

“And it was really born from my obsession, twin passion of the Italians who I had finally fallen in love with after being so frustrated with them for so many years, I finally fell in love with them.”

Scaling a Fashion Brand: Lessons Learned

17:49 to 19:27

Learn about the challenges and milestones in scaling a fashion business.

“Because I think that that passion got transferred into another lane, and that's where all of that creative energy went.”

Navigating Pricing and Profitability

19:28 to 24:05

Understand the intricacies of pricing and profitability in the fashion world.

“So he had the whole consulting background and then he had moved into e-commerce.”

Expanding into Home Decor: A New Frontier

24:06 to 28:00

Explore the journey of transitioning from fashion to home decor.

“You know, so these were things that were important.”

Pride in Italian Craftsmanship

28:00 to 29:10

Learn about the dedication to Italian craftsmanship in luxury homeware.

“And that's actually something I'm really proud of because that's not easy.”
Show all 23 chapters

Shifts in Luxury Consumer Preferences

29:10 to 30:24

Discover how luxury consumers are shifting their focus to experiences.

“And the second thing that it did for us is in the last four years, we started getting a lot of incredible opportunities and hospitality.”

Spirituality's Role in Fashion

30:24 to 31:48

Explore how spirituality influences business decisions and partnerships.

“But it's just interesting to me, you mentioned spirituality and anyone who knows you who works in fashion knows that you bring that into your energy.”

Navigating Gender Dynamics in Italy

31:48 to 34:18

Discuss the challenges and advantages of being a woman entrepreneur in Italy.

“That's the spiritual practice, Lauren, literally working with your ex-husband.”

Cultural Influences on Business

34:18 to 35:38

Learn how cultural backgrounds shape business approaches and strategies.

“So, but I would say it's really been that part of me that's like, guys, let's get up and move.”

Opening a New Boutique in NYC

35:38 to 38:07

Hear about the challenges and successes of opening a store in New York.

“There's many things I'm not grateful for about that relationship, but that I am certainly grateful for.”

Integrating Spirituality into Fashion Products

38:07 to 41:00

Understand how spirituality is woven into the brand's product offerings.

“with five different floors and do the raise your vibration stuff, the temple, the store, you know, so it was really a great opportunity.”

Exploring the Modern Boho Aesthetic

42:00 to 43:06

Learn about the resurgence of the boho style with a glam twist.

“Let's introduce you to the ancient Egyptian mystery school.”

The Importance of Mental Health

43:28 to 44:36

Discussing the challenges of accessing mental health care and the solutions available.

“But it's also very easy to put off taking care of your mental health when finding an in-network therapist feels like a full-time job.”

Awakening Intuitive Abilities

44:44 to 46:34

Exploring the idea that everyone possesses intuitive and psychic abilities.

“Do you think of yourself as like an intuit or a medium or a psychic or anything like that?”

Building a Conscious Fashion Brand

46:34 to 50:58

Discussing the goals of creating a meaningful fashion company focused on ethics.

“what's so amazing about it is that that can really help you with the 3D physical world.”

Innovative Approaches to Fashion Week

50:58 to 55:41

Exploring unique event strategies for fashion shows that break traditional molds.

“Like, it really just needs to be, what's the word?”

Energy Vortexes in Europe

55:41 to 56:00

A discussion on the locations of energy vortexes in Europe and their significance.

“I mean, there are moments of pizzazz and shebang, et cetera.”

Exploring Energy Vortexes in Europe

56:00 to 1:00:46

Learn about energy vortexes in Europe and personal experiences in sacred locations.

“Are there any energy vortexes in Europe?”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

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2:56Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Pucks Fashion and Beauty Memo Line Sheet. And today with me on the show is JJ Martin, founder of La Double J. We talk about the evolution of Milan as a fashion capital, her move from freelance journalist to mid-sized business owner, bringing spirituality to the workplace, and I promise you plenty more. Before we get going, I wanted to remind you that if you like this podcast, you'll definitely love Puck, where I send an email called Line Sheet. If you're a fashion person, you get that reference. It's an original look at what's really going on inside the fashion and beauty industries.

3:38Line sheet is scoopy, analytical, and above all, fun. Along with me, a subscription to Puck gains you access to an unmatched roster of experts reporting on powerful people and companies in entertainment, media, sports, politics, finance, the art world, and much more. If you're interested, listeners of fashion people get a discount. Just go to puck.news slash fashion people to join puck or start a free trial. Happy Friday, everyone. Hope you had a great week. Mine was wild and wonderful, but I got very little sleep. Not the way I like to operate. Anyway, this week in line sheet, you can read my reporting on Pierre Paolo's future at Balenciaga.

4:21It's not as clear cut as we all think. It's pretty clear cut, but not totally clear cut. But anyway, also what happened at Vogue World, which, look, I think the Italian media kind of said it all, which is that. What is this thing? What I said is like, sure, if you're a musical theater geek, you probably loved it. It was amazing that they were able to secure the Galleria and also the Duomo area was empty. if anyone went to that big Montclair event there a few years ago you'll understand how insane it is that they were able to secure all of that so good on them and I think a lot of the people that I spoke to who went said they had a great time obviously the robots were really dumb and freaky and bad and I think the unfortunate thing about this round of Vogue World is that the thing that everybody will remember our mutual product and Alessandro Michele's faces when the robots came out.

5:25But I just think like, I don't know, I think it's an interesting brand building mechanism. My assumption is they don't really make a lot of profit off of it, even if they are making, you know, 30 plus million in sales, because they are supposed to be giving a lot of that money away to charities and also cost a lot of money to put this stuff on, even if, you know, one of the big big things I hear is they ask everybody to do this for free like no one gets paid the models that type of thing but still it costs a lot of money to produce these kinds of events so um it's just like manpower or whatever so I I don't know I mean I would love to know how profitable it is and also like from a brand building perspective does it make sense because if yeah the people in the room might have a good time but like do people online watch it do they care.

6:19You can't see one thing I noted was like, Vittoria is wearing Prada. Obviously, we know this. The consumers don't know that. If the whole point is to promote the fashion industry, somehow you need to communicate what you're seeing. Like if you want to make a variety show about the fashion industry, sure. But like, how do you buy the stuff? Anyway, it's just weird. It's just weird. That's what it comes down to. And it could be less weird and be a better brand builder. But, you know, it is down to one person and their interests and whims. And it is what it is. So best of luck to the whole team in San Francisco where it's going to be even trickier.

7:00baggie malinsky is my guest next week so on next tuesday so we'll break down our favorite milan shows and looks but quickly as of this writing i would say prada and jill sander have been the standouts the skirt is the thing i'm personally very happy because i love skirts even though i'm often told why do you why do you buy skirts where are you going to wear them the use case outside of metropolitan cities is pretty narrow but i'm a huge fan i'm excited i'll be buying more skirts for sure. And I hope you enjoy this conversation with JJ and we're able to make it to her show on Thursday.

7:40JJ Martin, welcome to Fashion People. Oh my gosh, I'm so happy to be here. Hi. I'm so happy to have you. What'd you have for breakfast this morning? It's pretty, it's afternoon your time, but think back eight hours. I just got these really exciting matcha pockets that come pre-packaged with coconut milk and stevia. And I'm really into it because I gave up coffee a few months ago. And this is just like a low level lift rather than like crash and burn with caffeine. That's what I started the day with. And I had some cottage cheese. I love cottage cheese so much. Is cottage cheese regularly available in Milan?

8:20No, definitely not. They just got around to that recently. I was just thinking about that. We were back in LA for like a few weeks at the end of the summer. And we, the cottage cheese from Whole Foods was back in the good. I think it's called like good or something. It's really, really delicious. But, and I grew up eating it. And then I was like, oh, we don't eat it in France. And then I thought, oh, do they have it? I don't, I don't know. It's one of those things Americans excel at. How do you feel about the internationalization of Milan and more America? Because you've been living there for, what, 25 years?

8:58So you're Italian, but there are so many Brits and Americans. It feels like post-Brexit, definitely France, Paris is like that. It's much more international. How does it feel to you? Are you happy to have a mix of expats or does it feel like they're changing the culture in a not great way? Well, on the one hand, it's amazing to see now that you can get coffee to go. And there's like a few little things that have adjusted that are really convenient. And I actually love going to my local supermarket and now hearing French and English spoken in the aisles, which never happened. I mean, I never saw anyone who wasn't Italian at my supermarket.

9:41That's funny. That's been fun. But, you know, Milan has become such a tax haven for all the billionaires because there's like this really convenient tax now, a flat tax in Italy. And because of that, the property prices and the rents in Milan have gone through the roof, which sucks. and the other thing that I noticed is that a lot of the sort of there's a little bit of this attitude of people coming in and being like oh I don't want to go to that local small bodega or frutti vendolo or whoever it is oh he's always closed etc which is really the culture here which drove me nuts by the way for the first five years but then once you kind of surrender to this entire way of life, you really see how beautiful that is and how much it's giving to you.

10:28So I am starting to see a few cracks in that, which is kind of a bummer. Yeah, it's interesting relocating to Paris at this moment in time. So we did a chunk of time there in 2019. And back then I felt much more alienated because of language and all that stuff. And this time, not only do I know a gazillion Americans who have moved there in the last two years, but also it's just so international. There's so many Brits and Italians and Germans or whatever. And in a way, it's really nice because it feels more open. And yes, I love being able to get coffee at 7 a.m. And I have to just say the greatest part about the internationalization of Milan is that literally every taxi you step into has air conditioning, which was not the case.

11:20a while ago. That's very nice. Francis is still behind on that. But I do think the thing that you're right about is like in America, I order everything online and we get our groceries delivered online. We do everything online and I think the remembering that you don't need to live and die by AI and like is is it's nice of course like I was driving back from the air from JFK I'm in New York and I ordered a bunch of stuff on Instacart to my hotel and was like oh it's so nice to be able to do this but like did I really need any of it no no totally it's just Italy is all about relationship and you develop a relationship with the guy that is selling you vegetables and there's something so soothing and relaxing and weirdly fulfilling about that.

12:21I just had the best experience yesterday picking up vegetables before I went home. They know your dog. They're excited. They remember what you like, the long skinny zucchini that are thrombete. It's just very, very personal and feels like a large family. And that's just something that I hope never disappears from this culture. Yeah. Well, let's talk about how your brand developed out of Milanese culture and how you ended up there. And maybe you can give the sort of elevator pitch of the inception. So I moved to Milan exactly 25 years ago. And I had come from marketing in New York working at Calvin Klein.

13:06And when I arrived in Milan in 2001, there was not a single fashion company, not a single one that had a marketing department. So I had to reinvent myself. And that's when I got into the writing, started at the bottom of the barrel with Godfrey Dini at Fashionware Daily, like 25th row and all the fashion shows, nobody, you know, nobody paying attention to what was going on online. But then just, you know, slowly worked myself up and got a couple really great breaks and really learned everything that I know today about fashion, about style, about entertaining, about design, about decorating from my job, you know, being an editor for a long time at Harper's Bazaar, being an editor for a long time at Wallpaper and constantly going into all these people's homes.

13:56And so when it was time to start the company, I mean, this, I always talk about Double J as a love child, because she was so it's like a baby. It's a real entity. It's a being it has so much energy. And it was really born from my obsession, twin passion of the Italians who I had finally fallen in love with after being so frustrated with them for so many years, I finally fell in love with them. And vintage. So that's how the company started. I had a huge collection of vintage that I had started while I was in New York and carried it over. It was just this thing I could not get enough of and started selling it online, but using all of these incredible creative women that I had met as my models and muses and then taking the opportunity to step into these homes and to show how they're styling themselves, how they're decorating, and how everything is just incredibly flawless from a style and taste and sophistication, but also from just this relaxed way that the Italians are so easy and warm.

15:06So that's actually how the company was conceived. That's interesting. It's funny. I worked at Lucky Magazine for Brandon Hawley, and I remember you were, I don't know if you were friends with Brandon, but you would write for us. and you were you were like the hottest freelance writer it's like you and there was maybe it was alexander marshall there was like a couple people in paris she was in paris yeah you were a big deal like to get you to do stuff for us it meant something especially because lucky was all about personal style and color and they just and you were associated with harper's bizarre and it was so glamorous and um and you were you were such a such a kind of force so that's just a comment but um I mean it also may be due to the fact that I was probably the only freelance writer here because it's it was cool and and then on top of it like the vintage thing do you still thrift like do you still go vintage shopping and I was just reminded of shop the story and I think she does such an amazing job in Milan.

16:12But there's so few places that have that sort of passion anymore, because there's so much of it. There's so much of it. I honestly, when I tell you I was doing this every weekend for 15 years, I'm not exaggerating. I mean, it was my life. And it slowly petered out because the way we we changed the company, I mean, pretty quickly with the vintage, I started realizing this was real vintage I was selling. So 20 years older, or older for all of the pieces. And you just can't reassort that quickly. And you don't have the size runs. And you know, you don't, the fit is always an issue. So the business model didn't really work very well for fat for vintage.

16:51That's why I decided to start making one new dress using vintage patterns that came from a silk archive in like Como. And so the company's current iteration happened in like bite sized pieces of like one dress, one shirt, one skirt, oh my god, we have like a little capsule, Oh, my gosh. You know, so sort of like the third year of business was when we first had enough of a collection to go on Vogue runway. And then we started really getting more and more organized and even understanding how to make fashion collections. I had no idea. This was all like a brand new world, even though I had been covering it from a journalistic standpoint.

17:29So there was a lot to learn. But to answer your question, slowly, as I began to create more and more products for the company, and then, of course, for myself, I just sort of lost all desire completely for consuming and hunting. Because I think that that passion got transferred into another lane, and that's where all of that creative energy went. Was there like a moment when you realized, okay, this is actually a business that could scale into something significant? Yeah. I'm wondering if there was one particular moment. It was so funny when we finally decided to hire a wholesale person. This was probably the second year that I had been doing the new clothes.

18:22We threw out a sales target for her that was very minimal. It was like$5 million. I was like, wow. Or another thing I remember being like, someone wanted to order the marketing, the production guy was like, yeah, we're going to order like 10 ,000 tags. And I was like, what? That seems impossible. And then suddenly you're like, those 10 ,000 tags are out the window, you need to reorder them. Or we blew through that 5 million. And it's just in your mind, these are like huge numbers you can't even imagine creating. And then when you get there, you're like up leveled. And so you're thinking about the next benchmark or the next thing.

19:02But it's really fun to be able to see that sort of growth that happens not just like in the physical world, but also just for you mentally and emotionally around what you're creating. Yeah, I want to talk about the when you moved into home and to me because the brand is to me as much of a home brand as it is a fashion brand. But before we do, how did you approach pricing from the beginning? Because 5 million, some brands that we all know never get to that number. Yeah, I know.

20:03as a partner for many, many years. So he had the whole consulting background and then he had moved into e-commerce. So I had a really good partner, number one, and I'll never forget. And I was getting all of this information from him every night over dinner. Because at the beginning, he was just sort of like advising me on a few things. He was like not there. I mean, this guy has never been next to me sitting at a desk working on Double J. It's always been, And he has like five of other companies. And so, but I really benefited from his advice. And I'll never forget when he said, I used to consult for all these big fashion brands.

20:37If you're not profitable by year two, you're never going to be profitable. That's what he said, number one. And then the other thing that he said was, you're in a really unique opportunity that we have access to one of the best factories in the world in Lake Como, which is Mantero Settum. And you walk into that factory and they're spinning reams of silk twill for Vuitton, for Dior, for Pucci, for Gucci, etc. And he was really the one that encouraged me to play in that luxury field at the level of quality, but then price it at a very fair range for that luxury product. And so if you look at, I mean, this silk twill blouse, you know, it's that same silk, literally, that's coming from Como.

21:34Our blouse, you compare it to something at Gucci, and it's like remarkable what the final price is. So I think those were two things. And also just to like tie back to that first comment about being profitable. I was like pinching Chintizimi like you would not believe. Like every single cent was being cared for. And there were so many like, hey, do you want to work with us? We'll give you this. Maybe you give us that. Like there was barter. There was trade. It feels like it was like, you know, prehistoric sales terms or not even sales terms, but collaboration terms. And a lot of it was just based on how to be really creative at the beginning and not have a lot of cushy extras.

22:19I mean, we just got this amazing Star Quarter building last year. And I've been in business 11 years. That wall, the wallpaper, that's your wallpaper? Yes. It's amazing. I wish we had, we will do video someday, but not today. But it is just, it's so gorgeous. Thank you. Yeah. I mean, I think that the profitability in two years, there are some brands and are never profitable. So it's a really good lesson. and if you force yourself. And also I think the pricing thing is so relevant right now because it is really expensive to produce where you're producing. And so there is some, you can't understand why some of these brands that are made in Italy are the clothing so expensive, but it's very hard to communicate that value.

23:10And they're paying, that final price is also paying for the resort show that they just sent 200 people to Honolulu or whatever it was, or like the 10 skyscraper store, you know, there's so much is being paid for on top of that, that obviously we don't have, we don't have the budgets to do these huge full scale shows or to pay celebrities and influencers. I mean, we just don't have those budgets. So we're forced to be a lot more creative, But I think that one thing that helped me from the beginning is that I am, I was and still am in charge of creativity, but I've always approached it from a marketing and business mind.

23:58So very practical. How is this going to land? What does this sound like? You know, are we actually providing a product also that is useful, like makes women happy and look good at the same time? You know, so these were things that were important.

24:442-22-22, 2-22-22, 2-22-22. Jonathan Foust, Managing Attorney 114 East, Sir Max, Chicago. It was a gruesome discovery off a dirt road in Georgia. Hunters had found a body. Was it immediately clear to you that this woman had been murdered? Yes. But who was this mystery woman in the woods? That looks like Mindy. I'm Erin Moriarty, and from 48 Hours, this is the woman in the woods. I have never wanted to be wrong like this in my whole entire life. Follow and listen to The Woman in the Woods wherever you get your podcasts. When did you start to move into home and how much has the business become about that?

25:30Because it feels like, you know, I just went to Salone for the first time this past year. I'd be so curious what your thoughts on the transformation of that is. But I was just shocked by the opportunity there is. It feels like it's 15 years behind the fashion industry in terms of how the kind of money making opportunities there, but also just the consumer interest in in home from the pandemic on. But when did you first start moving into it and like how much you don't have to give specific numbers, but like how big of part of it, the business is it at this point? So I launched the company in 2015, then did a first new dress 2016.

26:152017 is when we kind of had like a small collection of clothing and 2017 is also when we launched the home. And I'll never forget that that smart business partner of mine was like, there's no money in this, you are not going to be able to scale this. But again, it was a passion project. It was a love baby. And I was obsessed with all that I had learned in the whole entertaining world of Milan. I mean, it's like such a hostessing community. People are always asking me which restaurants I like in Milan. I'm like, honey, I don't go to restaurants. We go to each other's homes. And there's like the most incredible dinners and soirees, etc.

26:55So that came from just this love of homework and this playfulness that I was doing from the very beginning at Double J with the patterns, with the colors, mixing, layering. and that's really become like a guiding light at the company of giving people permission to be joyful giving people permission to be exuberant to have fun to have that happiness at that level of luxury because you find that you get that joy and that happiness at the sort of lower end of the market or mid, but as fashion or luxury goes higher, it becomes so serious. It becomes almost like sometimes scary or mean or fearful, et cetera.

27:43So I think also this has been one of the things that has helped us a lot. And the homeware certainly was like a very easy way to play with that. And from the very beginning, we worked with, I mean, first of all, all of Double J is made in Italy. We do everything in Italy. And that's actually something I'm really proud of because that's not easy. And most people, a lot of even Italian based brands are not doing that. So it's something that I feel really committed to. And also, it's just like my pleasure to support the Italians. And I love them, even though they're often disorganized and sometimes slow and more expensive than everybody else.

28:27But like we're doing our plates, they're porcelain, they have 24 karat gold trims, we're doing those in Verona, we're doing all of our hand blown glass in Murano, all the textiles are made outside of Milan. And, you know, it's true, it's not a huge part of our business, it's only 10 % of our overall turnover. But weirdly, what happened with this is that so many, we started hitting a different consumer. So like maybe if there was someone who thought like, oh, those clothes are not for me, that person almost always said, oh, but I want your homeware. So that was a really fun. Yeah, I can see that.

29:07It was a fun way to like mix the markets. And the second thing that it did for us is in the last four years, we started getting a lot of incredible opportunities and hospitality. And I feel like right now, the direction that luxury is moving from is just like, it's not like I think people have enough handbags. They really want to be in an environment, in a wellness space, in a vacation space, in a holiday space that is just as luxurious and that's where they're throwing their money. And so we've been very fortunate to have had collaborations with Pasalacqua and Lake Como with the Dorchester in London.

29:52And then we just did this, our most recent partnership with Belmond in Villa San Michele in Fiesole. So that's been like an incredible way where we've been able to like bring in, they actually buy our home where we design things for their spaces. And in the Belmond case, we've also brought in the spirituality with like developing an energy chapel for them, as well as programming, etc. So the homeware just kind of like opened up all these other possibilities for us that we had never planned for. It was just very aligned. Yeah, I have a million questions that are all kind of related to maybe your drive and how you've been able to, like what your ambition is for scaling this and how you think about it and maybe how you think about it differently than a lot of entrepreneurs.

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30:47But it's just interesting to me, you mentioned spirituality and anyone who knows you who works in fashion knows that you bring that into your energy. And I was talking to Leandra Medin who did the forward for your book, about you. And I said, what should I talk to JJ about? And she said, honestly, we always end up talking about spirituality. And Leandra and I became close when she was doing Man Repeller. And she would come to me and we would talk about the business. And even though I was a reporter, it was kind of like she wanted to know what I thought about what she should actually do. And so much of it ended up being driven by how she felt and how she her gut instead of saying like I said to her I'm like you have an amazing media brand that that could do well um you should keep doing it but she knew that she needed to end it and um I'm just curious like you said you you still work with your ex-husband and of course like your business partners sometimes you have to just kind of stick it out.

31:52That's the spiritual practice, Lauren, literally working with your ex-husband. That's the spiritual practice. Exactly. So like you have managed to do that. The other thing I was thinking about is like being an executive, you're obviously creative, but you're also a business owner woman in Italy is still, I'm always amazed by how it isn't like America where women are, you know, even if there is still sexism, you're at least like they act like they're treating you equally in America. Like it's still, there's a lot of sexism. There's a lot of just because I spent more time there in the last year, just experienced it, not myself, but like heard stories and things.

32:36Do you feel like, I guess the first question is, do you feel like all the challenges as an entrepreneur that anybody has, do you feel like your sort of groundedness in your spirituality and how you use it has helped to navigate that stuff? Yeah, for sure. On the one hand, like, I'm very much about the energetic with people. So if there's anyone who's operating from one of those like patriarchal sexist places, like we're not going to work with them. That's number one. Yeah. So that's just going to exclude them. I personally have not felt that much frustration about being a woman in Italy. And I'll tell you, I have had been meaning running my company this way because the Italians are very, I think, bringing the best of my Americanness, which is being very clear, being very direct and being very organized.

33:35and at the same time, the sort of more feminine softness, playfulness, joy wrapped together makes a really good package that I have found most Italians, men and women, really like. And they like working like that. So I haven't felt, if anything, as an entrepreneur in Italy, the thing that has driven me more crazy is being an American entrepreneur in Italy, because there's just not the same hustle. And there's not the same, oh, my God, drive, like we will do anything like that blind ambition, which by the way, you know, is what makes the Italians so much more happy, because they're like, not thinking about their job 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

34:24So, but I would say it's really been that part of me that's like, guys, let's get up and move. Let's now, I want the answer now. No. Yeah. You know, that's what's been way more frustrating for me. Yeah. I can, I can understand that. It's, um, it's interesting to hear how different people navigate different things and also building a business there as a person who's of two cultures in some ways I'm sure is an advantage. Yes. Because you understand both sides to it. And there's positives and negatives to both cultures. And so it's really great to be aware of that and then try to just cull the best out of both.

35:09What I love about America and something that it just doesn't exist here is that Americans are born and raised believing that anything is possible. Yeah, that's true. And that mentality is really rare here. And so I'm really grateful for my American roots that way. I had a mom that was really like pushy and bossy and a career woman. And I'm really grateful for that. There's many things I'm not grateful for about that relationship, but that I am certainly grateful for. What did she do? she um it's funny she was her first job was selling ads in a like local magazine and then my my dad got sick when we were in high school so she took over his uh company he was selling life insurance and disability insurance to doctors they were sales people my parents were sales people so it's i actually really enjoy the sales part of the job yeah put me on a sales floor You're good at it.

36:15Put me in the showroom. I love to talk to people. I love to hear. And we have so much to learn from our wholesale partners, but even more so from the women who are actually in the dressing room. Yeah, you just did you just open the store in the U.S. this year? So we open the upper side or has it been there for a while? We opened the store in New York in May and it's really exciting. It's our third store in the U.S. the first one was supposed to open a year and a half ago but they got burned down in the la fire right before you're supposed to open so that was a was it in the um palisades village yes no it was across the street it was across the street from the village okay yeah oh man it was nuts oh that's what a shame what a shame i'm so sorry what was so incredible was being able to you know we open a store in palm beach and dallas in the meantime and they were great they were smaller they're smaller stores, but then we really concentrated all of our efforts on the US flagship being New York.

37:18And it was really interesting because we kept, you know, this is another issue that a lot of small brands do. You know, we can't always afford the best location, the biggest store, you know, you have to be so smart about getting the right opportunity in the right place that, you know, all these things, we don't have the luxury that a lot of other brands do of just like throwing down the cash. And so there was a big debate about where to be in New York. Should it be Soho? Should it be the meatpacking? Should it be the Upper East Side? And the Upper East Side felt like the right fit with our customer.

37:51But then like the stores were so small on Madison, and like they were getting more and more expensive. And so we ended up finding a wonderful townhouse on 69th between 5th and Madison, way better price, much more retail space where we could play with five different floors and do the raise your vibration stuff, the temple, the store, you know, so it was really a great opportunity. How does the customer, I'm sure some of them are very into it, but how does the customer sort of respond to the vibration stuff and the sort of more woo-woo elements of your personality? Well, I mean that in the best possible way.

38:34Totally. Very woo-woo as anyone who knows me or listens to this podcast. Absolutely. I mean, the way I approach this is that, you know, I always knew that there was something kind of energetically happening with the company. And, you know, my serious spiritual practice has been going on for like the last 15 years. But I never really talked about it overtly to our customers until COVID. and everyone was at home and there was like, it was such a shocking moment and people were kind of really open and available. And at that time, I just started getting on Instagram and starting using video to sort of talk about everything from alchemizing your emotions to like how to develop a spiritual practice.

39:21And we really received so much feedback from our community that wanted more information on this. And I had, I kind of had never considered that that might be the case. And so from there, we started organizing a lot of online gatherings. So we would, you know, over the years, I've kind of gathered hundreds of healers and teachers that have helped me a lot. A lot of people come to me when they need advice on where to go to, what a new modality. I've tried many things over the years. I've hosted retreats. I facilitate and retreat circle work, all this kind of stuff. So I started saying, okay, how can we, you know, do this in a way that is just optional for people?

40:04Because our company's mission that I started being more verbal about in 2020 was raise your vibration. It felt like everything we were doing was like an energetic pursuit. And that happens on many different prongs. So it happens on the product. You've got the color, you've got the pattern, it's optimistic. Also, color has a frequency. There's something going on there. There's an exchange. These clothes are an invitation to be open, to spark a conversation. Then the way we communicate, very friendly, as I mentioned before, open, warm, that's a vibration. The stores have all become what I call raise your vibration stations.

40:45So Dallas is an eclipse. uh palm beach is a chakra station milan is the divine mother cave new york is the um lighthouse and so on and so forth and then like also there's more literal product like the jewelry that we do like i'm wearing some of these necklaces here it's all 24 carat plate so it's not the cost of full 24 carat which is like throwing things over 5 000 euro just for a gold chain which is so ridiculous. So you're getting the luxury and you're also getting the frequency of the gold metal. Then we've got all the, this is how light right here, but we've got amethyst, we've got malachite.

41:23So the stones are emitting a property. We also have, you know, we're selling meditation cushions, those kinds of things. And some of our collections are specifically, you know, inspired by either my trips to Egypt or a recent one I did to Ireland for our most recent collection. So those are all kind of ways that people can get involved with it. But I also wanted to say, hey, if you want to go deeper, we also have channeling, breathwork, sound healing, yin yoga. Let's introduce you to the ancient Egyptian mystery school. If you're not into that, come for some amazing, sparkling Murano glasses, hand-blown by the happiest artisans you could ever imagine.

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44:51I have one question for you. Do you think of yourself as like an intuit or a medium or a psychic or anything like that? Like, do you identify as something in that way? Because I think it's a lot of it, like, if you're not a spiritual person, you could just analyze and say it's just a person who has a good sense of themselves and other people and they can see empath or whatever. But I'm curious if you feel more strongly about how you identify yourself in a spiritual way. I think every human on the planet is an intuit and a psychic and a clairvoyant and a clairsentient and a claircognizant. It's just how much of that you're aware of.

45:37So truly, I believe all human beings have this capability. you're not like born one way or not it's more just like all the kind of we get a lot of programming we get a lot of like beliefs tapped into ourselves and so what i've found is that a lot of these experiences that i've had whether it's plant medicine whether it's multi-dimensional channeling star consciousness etc has opened up way more awareness of things that are not happening in a physical way and just giving me a consciousness of existence beyond this physical body and this physical mind. There's literally a higher mind, a higher consciousness that I believe all of us have.

46:28And that for me is what a spiritual practice is, is like tapping into that. And once you do, what's so amazing about it is that that can really help you with the 3D physical world. Because if you start tapping into what's happening up here at the higher mind, and you start channeling it down into your body, into your thoughts, into your actions, I mean, I truly believe that my spiritual practice helped me develop this company. I really do. Oh, yeah. I mean, for sure. Because it's also about knowing yourself. and it and i think they're one of their yes you were one of the only or the only um english speaking journalists i think i was let's be honest but you were you were larger than life jj like and i that is not everybody is like that like you you had such um you always had such um like self you really understood yourself and you could you care you had such a presence like i I remember seeing you at shows the years ago and just being like, oh, she's so she really knows herself and doesn't look like anyone else and all of that.

47:43Like it's just so and you need that sort of self-possession or whatever to be able to to build something. And I guess the question for you is like, what is your ambition with it? You're you're not afraid of commerce. You're not afraid of making money, but it also you want to do it in the right way. like, what do you want to achieve with this? Like, where do you see it in a few years? So one of my goals has always been, I mean, number one, let's be profitable. Because like, other way, you know, yes, that's literally number one, let's be profitable. But together with that is, I want to create a conscious fashion company.

48:27And I mean that on the level of everything that we do so that the product actually means something and has actually added value to someone beyond just a possession, beyond the superficial pursuit of consumption. And I really think that beauty, which is such an important concept in our life, and I believe it's actually a very high frequency. I mean, all those Renaissance churches and all that Renaissance art that was happening, that was like super high consciousness coming through. You know, like there's all this. So I believe in beauty, but I believe in it being used in the right way, in the controlled way.

49:17I don't want to use that word controlled, but in a conscious way so that we're not just blindly stuffing it down our throats and getting, you know, completely, you know, binging on this. Like a foie gras. Exactly. Like a foie gras. That's what was happening for years. It was, that's what was happening in, in fashion for years. It was just give, give, take, take, take, take, take, take, take, sell, sell, sell. And then it lost all Exactly. And I honestly, I care about the customer. Like I want to have a company that actually means something to these people that we're not. I don't want anyone to ever think they're taking advantage of me.

49:59Oh, my God, I just saw that item that they sold for this now on sale. We don't put our stuff on sale. That's also part of the pricing strategy. We never go on sale. Yeah. So an honest company, like how can we create beauty, share beauty? I mean, I have this wonderful life coach that I'm working with in Santa Cruz right now. She's not that really fashion forward. And I went to go visit her over August and I brought her one of our like most classic sets of the large shirt with a palazzo pan. She has worn this outfit like 14 times for all of her big presentations. She keeps sending me these videos being like, I feel so good.

50:37And I mean, I would like that to happen for as many human beings as possible. And I would like to grow it so that this can touch as many people as possible. And I don't think we need to look at numbers of like, I have to hit the billion, I have to hit the 500 million. You know what I'm saying? Like, it really just needs to be, what's the word? Not spontaneous, but like natural. It should feel natural. But also what's so important to me is that the people working inside this company as well feel good. They feel valued. That we're all, you know, and we're really working a lot with all of our new stores and the people working in there, the kind of attitude they have, the conversations, like all of this.

51:24So, yeah, a fashion, a conscious fashion company. I think all of the Marie on your team, who is amazing, sent me kind of your rundown for the fall of what you're working on. And it is so clear from all the sort of strategic initiatives that you have going on, if you want to be MBA-ish about it, that this is how you're practicing it because you open the store in the spring that is a big commercial effort. then you're doing a mahjong collaboration you have this amazing book coming out and then also you're during this is going to run the friday of milan fashion week so i think i don't know if your event is that day but you have this capsule collection launching with carolyn murphy sisterhood of light this is the power of light collection i know i can't wait to see i know no it's gonna be so good can you just like a why why carolyn but b why do something at fashion week like you don't need to yeah you know that you covered it forever you know how goofy it is the whole time and people are why be there and why why is this partnership like makes sense in that context i think you know one of the things we always said was that like okay let's have that luxury product, but let's not operate like a traditional company.

52:50So that's why no fashion shows. Like, I don't think we need to compete on that level and do that. But it is a moment in which a lot of people come to our hometown. We want to be present. We want to do something. And so we always end up doing something that feels uniquely Double J. I mean, we had a marching band dance party inside the Galleria, that major Galleria, you know, where the Duomo is, that was one year's presentation. We did a, we set up a carousel, you know, one of those spinning, like horse-drawn things in which we invited customers to come and be models. We did that one year. We set up a sound healing sanctuary in this like huge, massive, it wasn't even a Palazzo, what do you even call that?

53:42It had an open courtyard. And we set up this huge installation. We had sound healing all day and the fashion presentation upstairs. So I feel, and then, you know, these last couple of seasons, we've been inviting everyone to our new star quarter so that they can see the Gong Temple because we have Gong Temples in both the New York store, as well as our office in Milan, where we're offering these experiences that are open to the public. Some of them are free. Some of them are by payment. But it's just basically, again, to give people these experiences. So why fashion? Why do we even do something?

54:15Because there's more eyeballs. There's more opportunity for exposure. So I do see the value in being present, but let's do something in a different way. So that's how I look at it. And, you know, Whenever we do partnerships with people, it's just like what we were talking about before, like the sexism thing. If they're not on my wavelength, I'm not doing business with them. When we partner with brands or people, it's all about who do we really like? Who is embodying what we're talking about? I mean, Carolyn Ruffie, do you know her? She is like pure light. I don't. I've never met someone that is so kind, generous, like grounded.

55:03She literally emits light. And we had this collection that is like launching both the homeware, as well as we had this idea of, let's talk about the power of light. And on the third part of this, you know, Carolyn Murphy is not really a print girl. She is a real minimal girl. And I have a lot of friends who still think Double J is just about print, where it's like, we have so many things that we've moved and evolved the collections way beyond that. This is all about wardrobing, what to wear with print. We offer 10 different versions of a white shirt. And we also have a lot of dresses and separates that are way toned down.

55:40So we said, let's use this opportunity with her to create a very high-end dress collection, but really show a different side of us that is much lighter, much more minimal. I mean, there are moments of pizzazz and shebang, et cetera. But it's very much designed with and for her. And yeah, it's a sisterhood. It's fun. I can't wait to see it. JJ, I have one more question for you. Are there any energy vortexes in Europe? Oh my God. Because, you know, I think about you, I think about energy vortexes like Ojai, Sedona, Santa Fe. And you can really, the first time I ever went to Ojai, I was like, shit, like, I feel it.

56:25I feel the energy vortex. Are there any that you would recommend in Europe? so many and I want to do a book on this. I basically travel to them. All of my travel these days is just to energy vortexes. So quick list. I had no idea, people. I had no idea. Is Sicily. The island of Pantallaria is entirely made of obsidian rock. I've been there. Did you know it's the entire island is obsidian? No. I did know that and I knew, honestly, one of the only places in Italy I've ever been. Because I never, my husband and I, neither of us drove until we were 38 years old. And so we couldn't really go. But we went to, we went to Pantellerie.

57:10I was like, I have to go to this place. Because what happens in a place like Pantellerie, it's an expander. So it either brings out the worst or the best in you. How did you feel when you were there? I felt great. I would say, I think we stayed at like a resort, which was like not, it was perfectly nice, but I think that's a place where you need to stay in a house. Yeah. And I think we just weren't, um, but we were honestly pretty open to talking to people. Like we went to the what the zabibo wine guy um obviously not john tui too but um the guy with the arrows uh the wine bottles i don't know we went to meet him like we would just not i i'm a little bit more i'm just i don't i don't do stuff like that normally but um i felt expansive and a little disturbed but i was just so attracted to it and felt like we should do it again in a different way.

58:14But I remember the Sky Teen girls were going on doing yoga retreats there a lot. And I was like, I have to go to this place. Oh, I'm so glad you went there. That's a hot spot and so is Mount Etna. I highly recommend. I mean, I've hiked up to the top three times, two of which times it's erupting while you're walking up and they still allow you to do this. I don't even know what this is so Italian that they're like, the volcanoes erupting, no problem, walk on up. I mean, it's so funny. But I got to tell you, it is a super hotspot. And the other hotspot that's erupting is Stromboli. Not as beautiful.

58:55I wouldn't stay on Stromboli. The town is kind of crappy, but it's a hotspot. Then the other place is Sardinia. I've been obsessing over it. I was just there this summer. I was there in May. I was there at Christmas. There's a, so Sardinia is really known for all the yachts and the parties, et cetera, but there's this whole spiritual part of Sardinia, very ancient, a lot of archaeological sites. They're sacred sites. They call them the Tombini Gigante or the Naragi. They are initiation sites, ancient initiation sites, stone circles, incredible. So you've got those at Barbadja, Ardicena. I was just in the southwest of Sardinia.

59:39That's a hot spot. And then also, I really love Ireland and Scotland. So our current fall collection that's just dropped was inspired by my trip two years ago on a sacred site tour of Ireland that ended at Trinity College in Dublin, where I discovered the Book of Kells. And I mean, It was after this whole trip of spirituality and then to see this 9th century manuscript that looks like everyone has taken ayahuasca and is completely on a psychedelic trip. It was so fabulous. It was really good. I'm going to maybe try to go to the Dior show there. I know. Someone just told me. That's so funny. It's so aligned.

1:00:21Great. I'm glad we're all thinking Ireland. Yes, I've never been. I lived in the UK when I was first out of college but never went. So I need to go. It's very, very special. JJ, thank you so much for your time and your efforts. And this was so fun. And I can't wait to see you during Fashion Week. And congrats on everything. It's really amazing. Thank you so much, honey. It's a pleasure. And I'm just grateful and honored to be here. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. The show is produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to Puck co-founder John Kelly, executive editor Ben Landy, producer Maya Tribbett and director of editorial operations Gabi Grossman an additional thanks to the team at Odyssey Kelly Turner and Bob Tabador

1:01:14okay sis give me the scoop what have you been up to? living my best life I've been traveling, working, even hiking more and thanks to T-Mobile I'm connected for all of it really? I need details I mean with America's Best Network I can pretty much go anywhere Even when I'm off-grid, I'm still connected by satellite. That's cool. Plus, I get unlimited texting and data abroad, so I'm all set for my trip to Greece. I don't even need to do anything. It'll just work when I get there. That's it. I gotta get T-Mobile. I don't even get reception in my apartment. This is why I'm mom's favorite. So many reasons to join T-Mobile.

1:01:51Find yours at T-Mobile.com. Best mobile network in the U.S. based on analysis by UGLO Speedtest Intelligence data first half of 2026. With compatible device in most outdoor areas in select countries where you can see the sky. Included with experience beyond or$10 a month auto renews monthly. Cancel any time. High-speed data on select plans not for extended international use. Coverage not available in some areas. See plan for details.

From the publisher

Lauren’s guest is designer J.J. Martin, who showed her spring collection for La DoubleJ on Thursday. They discuss how she went from being a freelance writer to fashion entrepreneur, whether Italians are more sexist than Americans, how to incorporate woo-woo into your business plan, and plenty more.

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