Life After LVMH & Chanel Males

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1:33Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Pucks, fashion and beauty memo line cheat. And today with me on the show is stylist Carolyn Faux. We're talking life after LVMH, Galeano Frazara, Chanel males, and so much more. Happy Tuesday, everyone. Hope you had a great weekend. I'm heading to London today for the opening of the Schiaparelli exhibit at the V &A, and I'll be there for a couple of days. I will report back on my trip at the end of the week. This past weekend, I stopped by the Phoebe Philo store at the Galleries Lafayette on Sunday. They are in the middle of a big expansion, the Phoebe store.

2:15And it was just interesting to see how many people were shopping what is still open. They had a lot of product in the back and were able to pull stuff and how good everything looked. I tried on two pairs of boots and I also really liked this one bag. It was like, if I'm going to buy a bag, maybe this is the one I would get. But I texted Becky Malinsky and I said to her, you know, I just don't know. I've been looking for boots. If I can get anything but a Phoebe boot now. Neither pair were right for what I need right now, but everything else just doesn't look right. Anyway, I'm not buying anything anyway, but it is just funny how like one designer can render everything else irrelevant or at least all the commercial product irrelevant but I I don't know maybe it's also just being in Paris and a lot more people wear Phoebe and are on the streets and I see people wearing it so I have another friend who bought the same belt as me an ocean away so maybe it isn't just here but it was an interesting thing to observe and I love being able to go into these department stores and see what what people are buying.

3:19You should check out Line Sheet this week. I had a big piece on what happens to designers after they leave these big posts, in particular, Kim Jones leaving Dior and Fendi. And I had a bunch of details on that. Carolyn and I also touched on it briefly, but you will only get the scoop in Line Sheet. And there's lots more from Malik Morris and Sarah Shapiro. And of course, my beauty queen Rachel Strugeatz. Definitely subscribe. There's lots to see and do and I will talk to you all on Friday. Let's get going with Carolyn. Carolyn Foe, welcome back to Fashion People. Oh my gosh, thanks for having me back.

4:02It's an honor. How did you have a good weekend? I had a great weekend. We spent most of the weekend being hung over because it was like I was telling you earlier it's been a crazy month and immediately after that I was like I need to get out of town so we went to Palm Springs I was just baking yeah oh so fun I mean bake my idea of fun though is like baking in 100 degree weather full sun no sunscreen and then getting into a pool and just rinse and repeat and then after that we came back because our friend Al opened up Bar DiBello in Silver Lake I saw that Bar DiBello opened and I was jealous. I mean, hard to not see it open.

4:42Everybody in Los Angeles has been there. But yeah, I'm so proud of him. The restaurant is beautiful, as you know. And the food was really great. And then yeah, after that, Jason was DJing a party at Los Globos. Have you ever been there? Oh my god. You know, but I can't believe that people over the age of 30 go to Los Globos. They don't. even DJs no we were the only ones for real we were I was too old when I moved to LA I never got to experience stuff like Los Globos but I remember your friend Brandon Wardell used to do stuff there too oh yeah oh yeah I mean what happened to that guy oh he's around like we'll see him walking around Silver Lake just on a Wednesday post lunch just going for a stinky little walk on Sunset Boulevard he's a hoot I like him a lot I love it but yeah Los Globos And then, you know, like I just was horizontal for 48 hours and that was, you know.

5:41Can we briefly talk about Bardabello? My question is where exactly is it in Silver Lake? I know it's on Sunset, but where like what is the cross or what is it around? OK, I don't I've lived here for so long and I don't know the names of any streets. I just know that it's down the street from Sunspell. If you know where Sunspell is in Silver Lake. And it's in that kind of like new development. There's like a little strip of stores where there's maybe like a Diaz and Durga or something or like La Labo. Oh, yeah. Yes. Oh, yeah. I know. Oh, it's it's over. OK. Yeah. I know that development very well.

6:16Yeah. Yeah. So it's there. And yeah, it's a beautiful build out. I'm so happy for him. I'm actually going to go back next week for some drinks with my girlfriend. Do you think that this indicates Silver Lake? Because his last restaurant, Gigi's, was pretty fancy. To me, it really leveled up. A lot of restaurants in LA are either old school and you love jar-type vibe, mozza, and it's great service and it's been there forever. or you're kind of like, yeah, this isn't good enough. But Gigi's was great. It was like, this really is, and it was already, it was in Sycamore, so it was pretty far east for people who live west.

7:06This is really far east. Do you think this is like an indication of Silver Lake growing up? Oh, for sure. Because it feels like, yeah, yeah. It feels like it'll be a destination for real, not just like kind of a destination. No, for sure. And I feel like, I mean, And Bar Di Bello, I would say, is probably like the nicest, like fanciest thing we probably have on the east side right now. But there's been so many new restaurants in the past, like, what, five years that have opened up that feel like cool, like places where you'd actually want to go. That's kind of like not horses, but like horses, which did you read their male piece on horses?

7:44It was so good. Stephanie Tran. Do you know her? She was at GK now. She's at WSJ. she sent me like literally we were just talking about this yesterday she sent me a whole pdf on the article and it's insane now i'm like wait did the cat thing actually happen i don't know well the interest the interesting thing about and shout out to the team at airmail for for getting that story because i i was really satisfied it's really hard with those kinds of like we actually got the real story to for it to feel like you got the goods and there were so many rich details in there about text messages and there was just like a lot of information released.

8:28The thing that I keep coming back to is like these people just how did these people get investors to invest in them? Either of them. I know. Like either of them. I don't care what actually happened. They're both clearly had a lot of issues with each other. Yeah. And it is crazy to me that people are like, I'll give you two money. No, I know. I'm like, they must not have known or seen like behind the scenes because in that article, they talk about how like them fighting as a couple at whatever restaurants they were working at together. That was like a known thing. Yes. Like the bickering of it all.

9:04And they were so young. And also, I just think it's so hilarious that didn't they meet at Noma? And she like given all the boyfriend for him or whatever. are you going to the noma pop-up hell no i don't give no i mean we went to noma in copenagan a couple summers ago and yeah sure it was an experience but like it's not yummy like i also know it's not yummy guys and also i hate tasting menus and it's so annoying tasting menus are the worst stop tasting menus three hours are you fucking kidding me oh wait i don't know okay sorry I don't know about that that's fine yeah three hours is way too much time after an hour and a half I need to get paid to be there this is crazy I agree this is crazy I agree I you know what I did once was when Noma was closed for renovation or something they had this thing called Noma under the bridge and I went with Jen Rubio the former CEO of Away because we were I think I interviewed her at like some conference in Copenhagen and she was like should we I was like, gee, should we go to this?

10:05And it was family style. And that was amazing. I got the best bread of my entire life because it wasn't a tasty menu. And then Dan and I went back in 2019. And I was like, I'm good. I don't like feeling sick. And that's what this just did to me. And I'm never going back again. But someone sent us the menu from so I guess they still I mean, they're still doing it. But it's so funny. But anyway, I mean, and it's sold out from what I understand. And And funny that you bring up the bread because we had asked for bread when we were at Noma. And they were like, we don't really have that here, but let's see what we can like piece together.

10:39The bread is not from the fucking restaurant. It's from Hart, which I guess is like his bakery. He used to work there and blah, blah, blah, blah. The bread at the Family Style was the best bread I've ever had. It was so good. The bread was the best part of our dinner. And you know that I think that guy came from Tartine. Yeah. It really all comes back to California, Carolyn. anyway enough with the food yeah sorry fashion let's get into it it was actually a pretty newsy week even though we're all the shows are over and the Oscars are over one of the biggest news stories from last week was this John announcement that John Galliano and Zara are partnering for two years on a series of collections.

11:23They will not be based on John Galliano's previous designs because that archive is owned by LVMH, his former employer that still owns his brand. But it will be new designs based on the Zara archives, which obviously is a little funny because Zara is a fast fashion or a quick fashion, let's be nice, quick fashion company that tends to take inspiration from other designers so that's anyway gracious um yes yeah what do you think about it i mean you know how i feel about galliano i think the last time i was on here you were just like what do you collect in terms of vintage and for me despite all of the crazy shit that he said obviously in the past um i'm still a huge fan you know like what he did at dior and even margela is like fucking iconic you cannot deny it so at zara i am curious to see what re-author means he's talking about re-authoring clothes um and what that looks like in his vision and i don't know like i'm happy for him in the sense that like listen this is his what what he's calling his third act which i guess is like is that does that mean he's almost at the end of his career i'm happy that he's comfortable because I we all we don't we all know that he's getting a check for this right uh yeah I hope a big one totally and for two years like listen as a commercial stylist I get it money is so nice you know I agree and I also the thing that was interesting I try not to take like the internet chatter to like I I read it I let it inform me and I I'm not it's not that I don't take other people's opinions seriously.

13:12I very much do, but I try not to let it poison me, I would say. But there was like a lot of conversation about people kind of mad that he was doing it. And the thing is, like, all anyone talks about is how expensive clothes are. And if and like there isn't that much. I have a friend who's getting married at in May and she was trying on a new McQueen dress that was really beautiful. And I said, this is really beautiful, but like, should you maybe look for vintage McQueen or Givenchy McQueen or something Jean Galliano, like from the late 90s? And she said, honestly, there just isn't enough to, she was having trouble finding something.

13:55And I think you've been collecting it for years. It's become such a bigger thing. Miyako Belizzi wore Dior, Galeano Dior couture to the Oscars. There was another person who's like a young actor or something who wore a Galeano vintage Galeano dress. Like this is in the air and the idea that people who, I don't know, can't fit into a Galeano size six from 1997 or whatever, or just like don't have that kind of understanding of how to search for that stuff will be able to access something he created. I think it's great. Like I don't know. I think people, I think it's, and it is a thing where these designers, I've been looking a lot at designers who have exited these big jobs in recent weeks and these designers make a lot of money and they're used to a certain lifestyle And it's kind of like in Hollywood, if you talk to an agent or a manager, they'll say, look, like you can't make money off of movies anymore.

15:05You have to supplant it because like you have this whole staff and you have all these people have to pay. Designer, big designers aren't that different. Like they've got like they've got a team that they've been employing forever. They have they have houses. They have mortgages. Totally. And so I think it's I think it's OK. Like, do I dream that John Galliano will relaunch his brand? I think it would be interesting. Sure. But like reality is he's much better off doing this than like trying to restart his brand, even with the backing of LVMH, which is like the best case scenario. Yeah. I mean, I agree.

15:41I listen. I get it. I think it's who cares? Who cares why he's going? That's what he wants to do. And it's like he's already proven himself. He's already done all the things. What more do you want from him? realistically like he could also just coast off into the sunset right now and like not give us anything at all so the fact that he's kind of like well this tickles me like i'll do zara let's just see what this is about i'm curious to see what that is i want to know yeah yeah me too i agree it it was interesting because on monday i have this big piece on kim jones post lvmh and what he is doing.

16:21And he launched this, do you know about Bo's Dang? Okay, so I had to just look into this to be completely honest with you because I was like, what the fuck is it? What is this? I had never heard of it before February. Okay, so looking into it, I'm realizing it's like the upscale Uniqlo of China. Is that how you're reading? Well, but it's outerwear only. Okay, okay. So it's mostly outerwear. And I think it's like the market cap from what I could tell on Yahoo Finance is like$6 billion. But it's like, I tried, I asked AI, like, is it the Chinese Patagonia? AI was not giving it to me. But it's like, it's a down company.

17:06So like their expertise isn't down. So it is mostly outerwear. And for the last 10 years or so, they've been working on moving it more upmarket, I think to compete against like Canada goose and probably a little bit Montclair and Patagonia, that type of thing. But they, it's a huge company and they've tried, like they've shown at fashion week before. I had never heard, I somehow had never heard of it, but then they contracted Kim Jones to do this high end line called Ariel. And I remembered he had talked about it at this FT conference where he also He disclosed that he's the he he collaborates with Amon Essentials.

17:52Like the hotel line? Yes. Oh, sick. Of the Amon Resorts. Yeah, yeah, cool. Totally. And he was like, I've been to 30 out of 33 Amons, which I was like, amazing. And someone messaged me and was like, it's true. I was at this one in this year with him, which was so funny. This is exactly how he should be spending his time off. A hundred percent. This is exactly what he needs to do. A hundred percent. And so it was an interesting thing. And if you read, I'm not going to reveal this here, but if you read line sheet, I was able to find out how much he's being paid for this Bo's Dang thing, which it's a lot of money and good for him.

18:30I bet. It should be. Are you kidding me? And also I looked at the collection that they just put out. It's cool. It reminds me of him. And like, you know, this it has like a Craig Green feel to it a little bit, too, with the welting on some of the jackets. Yeah, I'm into it. I think it looks really nice. Like he should be proud, you know, I agree. Yeah, I agree. And the price point is really good. Like very good.

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19:43You think it's good enough. Is it? I'm Suzy Welch. I host a podcast called Becoming You. People think, okay, an A-plus life is not available to me, but there is a way. We are all in the process of becoming ourselves. Listen to Becoming You wherever you get your podcasts. one thing I and I don't know if you think about this at all in in your styling or whatever and and the kinds of brands you're pulling in for stuff but this another big kind of theme of my work from the last few months has been this idea of the luxury industry was so reliant or just yeah reliant on china chinese consumers and thinking oh they're always going to be there we can just like give them spoon feed them crap and it's and and they will buy it and the chinese consumer a there's like a million cohorts of chinese consumer and b they've gotten a lot more sophisticated and they're like actually we don't have as much money and we only want Hermes because Hermes is really nice and everything else is not good enough and so um and meanwhile all these brands are popping up there in the same way they're making their own movies and now like two out of the ten of the highest grossing films in the world last year were from China and they didn't get distributed anywhere else so I'm just curious like and it's interesting with this this bozding where they want they clearly want they also invested in moose knuckles okay yeah yeah yeah i'm aware i'm aware yeah which i found this european article that said moose knuckles is translated to elk testicles which i was like i don't know but is it just me or does moose knuckle like i hear moose knuckles and i think camel toe like is that it's a good point it's a good point It's not a great name.

21:41No, it's not a great name. But the point being, they clearly want to be a global brand. Do you think that that's possible? Do you think that that's the kind of thing that they'll continue being successful in China, but it won't expand out? like when you look at the sort of survey of brands on the market and what you think has relevance and what doesn't and just pop culture in general like how do you see Chinese brands like infiltrating the global culture in the way that like they took western they western brands were imported to China for so long yeah I mean I think that right now it all starts with just like pop culture right like what are like the most famous like the jenners or whatever what are they wearing and like the biebers of it all um and i feel like because those celebrities live in the states they're going to be seeing like american brands or like you know the classic luxury european brands more than they would like a chinese brand so i think like with in the in the case with like kim jones the reason why he's brought in is to help bring awareness to the Western world.

22:53Like he's a name that Americans and Europeans care about, and it has a lot of value. And so I think that's the whole, that's why they're doing that. And so I feel like for Chinese brands, like until their pop culture becomes something that we all look towards as like, oh, that's cool, or I'm interested, I think that they're going to have to continue bringing in like these European names or even american names to help bring awareness to their brands in the way that they want to if they want to like expand globally totally and a huge part of like kim jones's um selling or or value to lvmh in particular was that he was able to make products that chinese consumers really loved and he has a huge following there but on the other like what you're saying the reverse was that like I've never heard of Bozdang before yeah and now I know what it is and I walked by Gallery Lafayette during I don't know if it was couture or during fashion week I was like what is going on with this stuff and that's how I found out about it even though he had like communicated about it but I didn't really get it until I saw it in the store and so that was interesting um the clothes themselves that he's designed I think do resonate with like a European or American market i think the clothes are really smart and they're beautiful and it looks like you know like i was saying earlier it looks like craig green which i feel like people are eating up so yeah like it's working it's just about getting that exposure you know like turning it over here and making it accessible to us because no one also i don't think it's like strong enough for at least for in my opinion i could be very wrong but like i'm not gonna buy something from china and like pay for the shipping or whatever to get it over here.

24:46I don't know that I care that much. So it needs to be like that brand, that collection needs to be available here in the States for me to just get it or at least see it in person. Especially during this terrafore. You know, you know, what's like completely immune to this terrafore is Chanel. Oh, well, because they did price harmonization years ago. Good for them. But I wanted to talk to you because you style men a lot you do a lot of editorial menswear shoots and you style men in different capacities chanel has gone really hard on their menswear at the oscars pedro pascal was in it and you know they have this relationship with harry styles this relationship timothy chalamet that these more and more you see more and more men in in chanel but and yet the ceo of chanel Lena Nair has said time again we're not launching men's I don't know what's going to happen I assume one day they will launch men's but right now they like this is getting more men to shop the handbags and things but I'm curious what you think about it and and about the way Chanel has sort of embedded in the menswear market without actually making true menswear yeah I mean I wish they would do menswear simply for the inseam and like the arm length um there's been many times where I like I was styling somber for a story for nylon.

26:12It's coming out next month. Yeah, next month. And I was hoping to pull Chanel. But realistically, you know, the kid is 6 '5". I can't. Like the sleeves are going to be way too cropped. And the Chanel sleeve, at least in previous collections, it was already pretty short, you know. That's true. Yeah, which I love that the new collection is like a bit more relaxed and kind of loose. I feel like it's more modern and it feels like cooler, less stuffy, if you will. Yeah. So hopefully I can like pull some of it depending on the silhouette for my guys. But yeah, I love it on men. And I think for the younger generation, like people in their 20s or early 30s, you know, like that's just how people are dressing already.

26:56Like I, you know, I pulled like women's McQueen to put on somber and it looked sick as hell. Like, did we have to kind of open the back a little bit? Yes. But, you know, it's cool. And all this to say, I feel like let's just do like a bigger size run. I don't know for the samples. Is that too much to ask? Yeah, I think that's that is fair. It is amazing to me. I know that. Well, like how many sample sets do these global companies have? Do they have one for each region or two for each region? I mean, I think they used to. Now I feel like Europe and fucking America is like sharing. Sorry, did you hear that?

27:34was like a notification on my computer um no okay well anyways um yeah i i feel oh yeah so back in the day i felt like yeah they were supposed to have two sample sets one for the u.s and one for europe and now i feel like they're sharing everything and this whole like you're saying the the wrangling of the samples to me i just don't i i will never be able to understand and also now i'm realizing like the people organizing these samples are literally like straight out of college um and not to say that you can't like do that sure i'm sure there's tons of you know graduates new new graduates that are very capable at their jobs but like some of these people i'm just like bro what the hell like you're not even looking at the shipping label like i had somebody send me a return shipping label that went back to me and i'm like yeah what do you you guys pay attention just read the fine print remember reading yeah remember that yeah i mean most of these people are probably still in college well yeah and that's another thing too it's like that's probably all that these brands can afford yeah i mean it's yeah some of them some of you you do wonder you're like well look at your margin could you but but this is hopefully ai will save change all this like help us this will be the positive of AI that this stuff will all be like processed by computers now I don't know yeah I hope so can we get like Jeff Bezos Amazon on this shit if Amazon ran the samples oh my god that'd be so good it it does feel like it's like an unnecessary part of your job that you have to deal with it's 80 percent of doing the editorials and like thankfully these days I I have like good enough relationships with certain magazines that have their own fashion departments that can help yeah you know with the logistics of it all because it's so much logistics the amount of money and shipping and all this it's crazy it's really crazy i can't imagine oh yeah i'd never have done a shoot so i wouldn't know but it's like the amount of it's funny when you hear about these like magazines budgets decreasing but if if i saw what they spent on stuff i'd still be like oh my god that's so nuts yeah no it's wild um but you know we love our magazines and we love we need them we need them

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31:02I am curious, speaking of needing magazines, what do you think about Hanya leaving Tee and... I don't know if you ever work with them, but what would you like to see the next team magazine version of team magazine look like? I don't think some people were curious if they're going to fold it. I don't think they're going to fold it. It brings in a lot of luxury advertising and it's a very small staff. So I'm sure it's the budget is, is good and it allows the salespeople at the New York times. It gives them a way to have a deep relationship with the luxury advertisers. I don't see a point in closing it, but I'm curious what your thoughts are.

31:42Um, well, okay. Do we know why she left? Is it just like a. I think she's just done. Yeah. Like she definitely did not get fired. She, I think she just was like, I've been here for 10 years. You know, she's a novelist. Right. Right. She's not really, she was a magazine editor for a long time, but it was always like, I think my sense, I don't know her, but I mean, I've met her, but I don't know her very well. My sense is that it was sort of like a fun project. Totally. She really likes writing novels or whatever. And I think, and Tia, so, and they let her do whatever she wanted. Yeah. Like, it was just wild.

32:18There was the holiday issue I wrote in line sheet. Like, it was about how Gen X is the greatest generation. She did three covers, including a Simpsons cover. Like, it was insane. I mean. It was just so crazy. And I was, it was cool, though. I was like, well, good for her that she's doing this because there is someone from the time said to me, there are so few places where the editor is like has the final say anymore. And she really does. And so you got to respect it. Yeah, I think it's cool. I also like I looked into her a little bit and I like that she is like first and foremost a novelist. I think it brings like a different angle to fashion publications because I feel like you can't have somebody that's way too into fashion to do that.

33:05It just it's not going to make it very dynamic. And so to answer your question of who I think should go there and don't laugh when I say this, I think it should be Chris Black. Oh, my God. I think he would be so good at that. I still think that Chris Black should have gotten that GQ job. Well, we all die on that hill. yeah i will die on that hill but if he can't have that maybe it's tea you know and like he is very well read exactly exactly he reads more than any person we know totally i don't even know how i guess it's like the sobriety of it all but yeah like i feel that it all jokes aside like i feel like he'd do such a good job and make it like interesting and new and young and like i don't know he's gonna have to censor himself a little bit but you know whatever like i think it's cool I would be very interested in seeing what Chris Black's version is of T Magazine for sure I wouldn't be mad at that I think that the reality of who wants to do that kind of thing at this point is very limited and having an interesting person like that who um is an entrepreneur understands a lot of sides of things totally it's interesting I still am like there's still part of me that thinks someday he might be the editor of GQ.

34:25Yeah. And this will be the first Adam guy. Yeah. Yeah, exactly. Let's let this Adam guy have his time. Totally. What do you think about him? Are you allowed to speak on this? Sure. I mean, I report on it. I don't I haven't done any reporting since he started it because it hasn't been very long. And he was he started during fashion week and I wasn't really engaged. Look, I think he is a company man and Anna Wintour really likes him. He's also, from everything I've been told, extremely smart. He's going to have to prove to me that he is able to have a vision. And the interesting, whether you liked what Will Welch did or not, it was specific and it was smart the way he packaged it all.