Night of a Thousand Fashion People

0:04Hello and welcome to fashion people. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's fashion and beauty memo line cheat. And today with me on the show is Derek Blasberg, author of the fabulous new Substack and Another Thing. We're talking CFDA Fashion Awards, drawstring pants, gala season, trad fashion, and so much more. Happy Tuesday, everyone. I am in New York, very rushed. I hate being like, I'm so busy and important. I'm not, but I just like really overstuffed my schedule to make myself feel better. Not anything else you need to know about. But please check out Line Sheet this week. Yesterday, it was all about Onward Holdings' attempt to scale J Press in the U.S.

0:51You all had a lot to say about this. I will be including feedback at the end of the week. In today's issue, I've got some stuff on the Teen Vogue folding into Big Vogue, stuff you can't find anywhere else, of course. And plus, the legendary journalist Terry Agins is back with a look at Michelle Obama's actual impact on the fashion industry. So Terry had a front row seat to the rise of Michelle as a fashion icon. And we do not use that word lightly in these parts. and she makes a lot of good points about how Michelle did it differently than other first ladies and really treated it like a job I'd say Jackie Kennedy and she probably shared that but obviously Michelle's was much more strategic and Meredith Coop her stylist was involved in that too and they have this new book out I think it's called Look you have to look it up sorry as you will see on the episode with Derek I'm a little bit flustered but hope you enjoy it I hope to see you all if I haven't seen you yet, and we'll talk soon.

1:52Derek Blasberg, welcome to Fashion People. I am so happy to be here. I'm a longtime listener, and I've been jealous that you've asked other people. I mean, Mel Lautenberg has been on three times before I got this invitation, so I am very honored to finally be here. Thank you for having me. Also your husband. Also my much, much better half. I understand that one, though. That's fine. I was like, if I had to choose between the two of you and pull one of you out of the fire, I think he would win. Wow. But I love you both. Let's really kick this off on a good note. Thanks a lot, Lauren Sherman. We were looking for a peg for this.

2:30This is why it took so long. Yes. But we wanted a reason. And the CFDA. I love the news peg. CFDA. I launched my sub stack a couple months ago. It's a crater economy. A lot going on. So let's, to start, let's discuss CFDA Awards, which we were both there last night. I went to bed very late because the CFDA Awards ran until like 1130. The CFDAs are a marathon. It's kind of wild. One note I have, and this is the only negative thing I will say, I really think they should serve the food while they are doing the awards. I understand why they serve the food, then they let people go around and talk because everyone does want to talk.

3:12but I think people at that point in the night are ready for the awards and so you could serve the food and do the awards at the same time it's just my one note my one note I had a great time in the past they have done that Lauren I am so old I remember when they used to do these awards at the New York Public Library and it was it was even more of a marathon you got in the don't complain it could be longer okay that wasn't a bridge version Derek I think we were exactly the same made you maybe a year older than me? I mean, you're on fire today. Now I understand why it's so hard to put people on this show, Lauren.

3:49Jeez Louise. This is so funny. But I never went when it was at the New York Public Library, I don't think. I remember one year I went and there was an A-list and a B-list. I was obviously on the B-list. And there was a dinner downstairs at the New York Public Library and Lindsay Lohan arrived. She was obviously late and she brought a friend and she pulled up a chair between her and Anna Wintour and Carl Daggerfeld, which was awesome. You know, I was essentially in that seat last night. I was seated. Who pulled you up? No, I pulled myself up. I was seated with, I got to sit next to Louisa Jacobson, who I'm sure you know who is awesome and was really lovely um and daniella kalmeyer and then but i was mostly at the fear of god table with bastion and jerry lorenzo and ava duvernay ava duvernay yes well another another person who's not gonna be doing fashion people she i told her she always does so well on the red carpet but when i turned around my seat was wedged between anna and donatella versace and then on the to the right of me i see amanda silverman and i'm like why is amanda silverman seated seated like in the middle what first of all why is she here second of all i don't think sarah moonbez needs an escort to the cfda awards but i look and mark ronson is to her left and then i look to my right and it's rihanna and asap that's a good see that's amazing also donatella texting people i couldn't see what she was saying but it was it was good um it was a really fun scene.

5:27When you see Amanda Silverman show up, that's a good sign. That means there's someone good coming. I only met her in person after years of phone and text correspondence at Sarah's W Magazine party during Fashion Week. She is a living legend. And it was fun to be at that table also because Rihanna and A$AP Rocky are the cutest couple alive and also extremely in love. She was recording his speech and he's just so adorable what was his so charming he had a great line something and i'll stay pretty what was it i think i wrote i wrote down like two things let's look his sign off was oh he says yes i agree i'm an icon and then his sign off was like stay happy and i'll stay pretty something something he was good he's so charismatic he's so charismatic what What was your night like?

6:21What were the highlights for you? We don't have to go through every single award, I don't think. But let's talk about the big moments of the evening. I was sitting on the side of the, not an auditorium, not a planetarium. What do we call them? We were under the whale. What's that room? I don't know. It's under the big blue whale. We'll set the scene. We're at the American Museum of Natural History on New York's Central Park West. it was a chilly evening got dark earlier than we planned due to daylight savings time and there was a little bit of rain in the air um i was sitting with sarah moonvest i guess i was fulfilling the the role of amanda silverman and also at our table was mary kate and ashley olson i was at a winner's table baby they won the award for the best accessories designer of the year and sarah Moonves, of course, won the Eugenia Shepard Media Award.

7:14And I was sitting next to, our tables were near Ralph Lauren's table. Oh, nice. When everyone, that was sort of an emotional and grand moment for a living legend, a king in New York, a king in this business. And so it was awesome to see him in the flesh. It was a nice moment. And Ralph won Best Women's Wear Designer of the Year. It felt like a sort of career cap-off, but also that brand is so... Career cap-off? What does that mean? Never, never. But the brand... You're really painting me as an awful person. The brand is really in the zeitgeist right now. So it was a sweet moment. And Naomi Watts...

8:01Let's flesh that out. Why do we think that's in the... Obviously, Jonathan's debut at Dior Men was twisted preppy. Obviously. And we've seen so many twisted preps. But do we think we are nostalgic for 80s? Do you think the designers, the Jonathan, but also the Michael Reuters, grew up idolizing prep, and they are now interpreting their own version of childhood nostalgia into their collections? I love it. I'm happy to have it back. All of it. All of it. And I also I'm a hoarder. I have my twisted. I have the original version of this stuff. So I did a piece on the sort of attempt to scale J Press in the U.S.

8:43that Onward, the Japanese holding company that owns them, is working on right now. And yes, I think it's definitely a nostalgia thing. I think everyone who's coming into power right now is in their early to mid 40s and they're thinking about 1980s. We're all thinking about the 1980s because of the political situation and this sort of swing back to wanting things to be simpler, even though they certainly weren't. I think it's all connected. And Ralph Lauren also, the business, has done super well in the last 10 years with Patrice Louvet is the CEO. He's a really good brand manager. He figured out how to harness the greatness of Ralph and make it feel modern.

9:24And it was interesting at the shows, like even at Prada, they did a little emblem on some stuff. And at the end of Loewe, Jack and Lazaro, I think they were wearing polo shirts or one of them was. They've worn those polo shirts for a long time. But it felt like it was all kind of coming to a point. And so Ralph getting the award this year did feel very, very special. The Women's Wear Award. I also love a Ralph Lauren show. Sure. Yes, they're great. They're so cinematic. They're gorgeous. The whole family stands up at the end. It's what fashion shows, when I grew up in St. Louis, Missouri, with my face pressed against the glass, looking on this industry with such fondness, that's what I thought a fashion show should be like.

10:14For sure. My favorite was the car show in his garage in Bedford, wherever that was. That was very special. So other other winners were Ralph Rucci, which I have to say was a little disappointed he didn't like unleash because he does on Instagram quite often. But I'm obviously a huge fan and I thought it was really wonderful that they honored him and recognized him. He sort of has lived this life outside of the American fashion industry, even though everyone with authority totally respects him and admires his work. his his creations are incredible and um i actually think he's an unsung american couture hero and if you are you friends with any of those women who have worn those clothes like if you go to dita blair's house the only one i'm friends with is not friends with him anymore and i don't think she would want to be named on this oh you know her there's a lot of women in New York who have relied on him to make super polished, super elegant, super refined wardrobes.

11:24And there are clothes that they have worn for 20, 30, 40 years. So it was awesome to see him recognized by the CFDA because he's obviously not had a traditional career in this business. No. And I think it proves that if you do good work and you it stands like there's no denying that he's good. Lauren, what does he say? What does he say? I don't follow. He just you need to start following him, Derek. Give me some highlights. He really loves to go after he used to love to go after Demna, which I feel like was completely not fair or warranted. And maybe if they met in person, they would really like each other.

12:10But he loves to, you know, there are a lot of people who were in that room that didn't stand when he spoke, which was interesting. We should do a roundup of hot takes from, I don't know how we can call it. There's a couple of people of that era who seem to be loose-lipped on Instagram. Maybe we should do a line sheet. What is your substandard? wow why am i here i just i've got stuff to do no it's i know it i just linked to it in in line sheet um but i but i didn't because i just says derrick lasbergs dot substack dot com and another thing and another thing and another thing maybe we should do a collab of the greatest hot takes on on instagram but i mean specifically to a like john carl giametti can be very spicy You see on Instagram, there is a, and maybe one day - Susie Mankus can do some hot takes.

13:10And maybe this is the evolution of a fashion people career is that you reach an age or a time when you're like, I got a strong wifi connection. I'm going to go off. I think it's true. I think it's true. So other highlights were Peter Muller, Muller, that's how you say it. That's how they said it on stage. That's how Naomi Campbell said it on stage. I think you need to put a question mark at the end of the title of this podcast because you don't know how to say it's not fashion people should be fashion people. I'm always learning. I'm always learning, Derek. I love Peter. He's so amazing. I love Peter.

13:44He's so soft spoken. He's so dashing. I thought his speech recognizing the unsung heroes of fashion, the junior assistants, the pattern makers, he hit the right note. I agree. Naomi's introduction was actually incredibly generous. Azadean Aliyah was, of course, an icon and so beloved by so many people. Those are very big shoes to fill, very big scissors to hold. And so I think for her to say all of that about Peter was, of course, well-deserved, but generous of her to say. And I'm happy for him. I agree. And Stephanie Seymour looked amazing as well. and who was sitting next to Peter at another Aliyah inner circle person as a Dean Aliyah.

14:31But I thought the other big thing about having honoring Peter this year was American fashion is very commercial and his commercial impact on the industry, not only at Aliyah, which the business has exploded since he joined, but also on other brands and also on there are so few designers that have that sort of influence Jonathan Phoebe Philo and he is one of his generation and I thought it was really nice I'm such a big fan of the triumvirate of Matthew Blasi Peter and Raf Simons and he thanked both of them and I just thought it was a really nice he's it was a very elegant humble speech and it was a nice moment for the industry.

15:19I thought last night, which was what was really nice about it, and Sarah sort of ending, really brought this together was it felt like a global event that was about people who are affecting the industry globally. So the industry is really the center of the industry is in Europe, where these big companies thrive. But the US is one of the biggest market, the biggest market for most of the big brands. So I thought, like, honoring Jerry Lorenzo, I thought Ava DuVernay's speech was really poignant, and he got the Innovator Award. I thought, obviously, A$AP Rocky is the fashion icon, the cutest person alive, and also looks amazing in clothes, and I thought he was the best dress for the night.

16:06But then having Donatella Versace honored, and her speech was really wonderful. She's done so much for gay rights and so many different organizations and has really used her influence to help a lot of different people. But then I thought ending with Sarah winning the media award, and she really is the future of fashion media, was, it was just a great way to top off the night. Was Sarah the last, oh, and then we had Tom Brown at the end. Oh, yes, of course. Tom was he won for menswear and he began the evening because he is the chairman of the CFDA. I think he's done a really good job. He's a really thoughtful person.

16:54My favorite person to interview because he knows exactly what he wants to say. And it does not ramble. You like a concise soundbite. Yes. Unlike me. So it's helpful. No, no. We'll not disagree with you, Lauren. An editor is important. Always. Always. So what did you think of these other folks and the sort of theme of the evening, if you were going to zoom out? Was there a theme in the evening? Do you know what the dress code was, Lauren Sherman? Wear an American designer? No, it's called American Black Tie. Oh, I did that. I wore vintage Bill Blass. um friend of line sheet mel ottenberg i think really you know a tribute to ralph knocked it out of the park oh he looks so good in jeans cummerbund tuxedo party on top maybe party on bottom party on bottom jeans are always a party he looked so good he looked great i thought i was wearing the row i was wearing and i think this is something you wanted to talk about i don't know why you thought of me when this came up, but it was my pants had an elasticated waistband.

18:09Yeah, I wanted to briefly discuss. We had a little item on Tuesday about, actually, this might come out before the newsletter comes out, but oh, well, sneak preview. We have an item on Tuesday about how, you know, do you remember when we were in college, you went to NYU, right? So you might not have done this, but like at other colleges, people would wear pajama pants to class because they were like, I can wear pajama pants because I'm in college and no one's watching. Did people do this at NYU? I don't remember a lot of pajama pants and I would not have wasted precious space in my mind for these sorts of people.

18:44I obviously did not participate in this behavior, but a lot of people did, even at Emerson College in Boston. They were wearing those. I guess there's a way to do pajamas. One of my favorite shows was Sofia Coppola, when Marc Jacobs was still the designer at Louis Vuitton, did a collection of pajamas and they showed it at the Four Seasons Hotel on Park Avenue. Sorry, the Four Seasons Restaurant on Park Avenue. And that, I thought, was super chic and elegant. I don't think the college co-eds that you're referring to wearing pajamas to school were wearing Sofia Coppola for Louis Vuitton pajamas.

19:20But if they were, I would have approved. I would have co-signed. That was the era of the Stella bag and the Stam bag, all the great Marc Jacobs bags. But so basically what's happening is, I guess Gen Z has taken that like pink, Victoria's Secret pink girl look and they're wearing them in public as an item. and Sarah Shapiro, who works online, she went to The Gap this weekend and they had merchandised the whole sort of store with pajama pants. And I was like, wow, that's interesting. And then you mentioned that you wore drawstring pants. So you are pro a drawstring of like a fancier pant. Well, they're definitely, if we're talking about function and fashion, I also have a pair of elasticated pants and corduroy from Frang.

20:18So I get it. It's harder to wear because you can't obviously reveal your elasticated waistband. This is something that we conceal over another garment, like a sweater or a jacket. But definitely more comfortable. Certainly. I would say my rule is I don't like an elasticated waist. I can do a drawstring. but my rule is if you can wear a smooth waist for me that's better but I understand and you looked really elegant and also you were repping your table your table was really the cool kids table I I wow I'll that's the first nice how long we've been in this call 22 minutes and I finally got a compliment I'll take it I will not argue with you it was great the only people were that we're missing we're Jack and Lazaro I know I miss you know they're busy I'm so happy for them I'm so happy that that little collection was so well received I'm so happy that they have begun a new chapter I'm so happy that Rachel Scott has taken over a friends of schooler this is this feels great this feels this I'm optimistic about that part of the world the rest of the world is a disaster, but I'm excited about that.

21:40I agree. Also, just huge shout out to Ashlyn, who won the Young Designers Award. Of course. Huge fan of hers, and it was nice to see. I also love Colleen Allen, and everyone who was up for that award is great, but just mentioning Rachel from Diotima reminded me that she had won that a couple years ago and that Ashlyn Ashlyn gone on stage I thought it was it was a nice show do you have any closing thoughts on the show or I was excited speaking of Colleen Allen I was excited to see another Allen I was excited to see Lily Allen last night oh yeah she is really having a moment in the zeitgeist she is with this breakup album she is and it was a thrill to see her she looked great she was wearing Colleen Allen oh yeah Colleen Allen and that's what made me think of it showing off her bod wow great segue this is what this is called a segue Lauren maybe you should take over fashion okay so moving on to some other things that are happening in the news let me pull up my text to you Derek I still have to write my roundup I might just use I might just from last night?

23:05Yeah, it's been Isn't this it? This is it. So one thing, I mean, so you are here for this, but I did not see you at LACMA. I was at LACMA. But I know you were there. Because someone was like, Derek Blasper, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. And I left after cocktails. I had a 40th birthday dinner. Shout out to my good friend Hannah Fidel, who turned 40 and had a fabulous dinner at her home. And then we watched the Dodgers, who I really don't care about, but was happy for everyone involved. So you were at LACMA. I want to hop in here and just say I also don't care about the Dodgers. But I will say in the room at the LACMA Gala, there was such a wave of excitement and there were bursts of applause from the table.

23:51And obviously I was like, what have I missed? But it was all about the Dodgers when they tied the game and they came back and they won the game. and all of my friends in LA remind me that there is, although LA looks beautiful and it's sunny and you can hike all the time, there is a sense of gloom and doom in that town after the fires, after the writer's strike, after COVID with what's going on politically. And so it was so great for so many people to have something of pure joy. It felt like a bipartisan excitement that the Dodgers won that game. But speaking of LA in the fall, the la now has a sort of awards season without awards there is the academy gala there is lacma there is baby to baby there was vogue world i am getting i have so many frequent flyer miles in the next couple weeks are you attend did you attend all of them i did not go to the academy gala because that was the weekend after paris fashion week and i wanted to remind my kids that I exist.

24:51You exist. Yes, I understand. But I have, I did go to Vogue World, which I thought was incredible. I ran into Lisa Love at the LACMA Gala, coolest person alive. I just love her. Vogue World to be on that lot was surreal and it was awesome. I don't, I know where the next one is. Have they announced it? I'm not going to get in trouble. I know. I heard Milan or New York. I Milan makes sense because they're getting ready for Olympics as well. The Olympics will be over by then, Milan. The Olympics are in February. Oh, are they? Yeah. Oh, man. This February? Yes. They're after we get there, though, right?

25:35They're before we get there, though, right? Yes. Oh, man. Okay, I got to book my Airbnb. I'm booking my Airbnb right now. You stay in an Airbnb in Milan? Certainly. But yes, that is the rumor I heard. You don't have to comment. I won't comment. So the final one, though, so you've done all these events. The final one is Baby to Baby. You are going back for it. I'm going back for that. One of the co-founders is Kelly Sawyer, who's a good friend of mine. And she and Nora Weinstein, who's awesome as well, built from scratch this incredible organization that started by distributing necessities to local families in L.A.

26:16and as an international powerhouse. She's pretty great. Which one? They're both great. I don't know, Nora. But Kelly, I was at dinner with Kelly the other night and she was like, I want to invite you to Baby to Baby. I know you really want to come. I was like, I want to come. Why wouldn't you want to come? I've always wanted to go. Are you snarky about Baby to Baby? I made a couple funny jokes about it. I want to go to be with all the blonde women. but in the goodness of my heart. But she was like, I know you really want to go. I want to invite you. It was so, so she's, I don't even want to say it's kind of so lovely.

26:55It's interesting to see where the line is with you, Lauren Sherman. You will not reveal how much you pay for your Milan Fashion Week Airbnb, yet insulting a children's charity is fair game. Wow. I just have it playing. I hugely respect it. I'm really into Kelly and her whole group of friends because they've all done like very have incredible businesses and are nice and fun and all that stuff. I cannot go. That raises an incredible amount of money. Yeah, it's crazy. I volunteer for baby for baby. I dropped diapers off. It's it's a very important organization and also a really fun group of people.

27:33And apparently they have great food. But unfortunately, I'm still going to be in New York. So I'm not going to be there. But you'll have to send a report. and then I come back I have a board meeting here in New York and then I actually go back to LA after baby to baby for the Dior for Jonathan Anderson's Dior store opening oh my god it's too much it's just too much so are you are you on a lot of boards or just one you don't have to reveal it I don't I'm on a couple boards but that's not what we're here to talk about you know like Derek. And then by the time you're in your like 60s, 70s, you're on four boards, you make a lot of money off of these boards and you get to pop in.

28:23You don't even have to tell them what to do. It's not your responsibility. You just go and you observe. It's a goal. The way you just described being on a board is not a quality board member. You've just described someone who is lazy in there for cash. Also, by the way, most boards don't pay incredibly well. And furthermore, you get equity if they don't pay well. A good board member is someone who's out in the world learning and experiencing things. You just described like a lazy, like a late in life taker. It could be both. You could be all those things and a late in life taker. I just think it's a very good strategy.

29:04And also you are out in the world and I bet you'd also get equity in And if it's a startup and then if it does well, that's great. Even if you look at these few weeks, it's obviously an incredible effort to fly to and from New York several weeks in a row. And I honestly wish I could buy art with frequent flyer miles or pay my kids tuition with frequent flyer miles. I've got so many frequent flyer miles at the moment. but I think if you want to stay relevant and you want to keep a pool a finger I think if you want to stay relevant and you want to keep your toe in all these pools you have to you have to show up and furthermore I you know I think you know this Lauren I grew up in St.

29:47Louis Missouri I had no experience or access to these worlds and I was so optimistic and so uh I dreamed of moving to New York and being a part of this world. And so I'm so happy to be. I'm not one of those people who complain about having to go to something or do something. I'm a natural extrovert and I'm really happy to be here and I'm super grateful. So I will not. I may look like I've got bags under my eyes, but I'm not going to complain about them. Well, I also think that's why your sub stack is compelling. Oh, wow. OK, ran the plane, Lauren. Let's move the sub stack. There we go. My favorites are the ones where you're like, in your world, Mark Waducci is at your house for the weekend and there's a photo.

30:32You're with your friends. You're talking about all the fun things that you've done. And I think it's interesting. You've built an amazing career. And like you said, you're involved. We were just talking about Gagosian and openings. And you've been working there for years. You have, you've done a lot of different things and really lived your life and also made, you're the perfect example of like your job doesn't feel like work or doesn't seem like work, but you're actually working your butt off. And I think it's interesting and it's very well reflected in the sub stack, which if, you know, I enjoy reading as an observer of all this stuff.

31:16But also if I was like a 20 year old, it would be so fun to see what this guy who knows so many people and works with so many people gets to experience every day. That's a good, you know who you just quoted? Well, that you misquoted, that you, was Mark Twain, a fellow Missourian. Wow. If you love what you do, you never have to work a bay in your life. Wow. I did not know he was the one to do that. All good quotes come from Mark Twain. You know what my other favorite Mark Twain quote is? Tell me. Quitting smoking is the easiest thing to do. I've done it a hundred times. That's good. Have you ever smoked a cigarette, Derek?

31:54Me? Yes. Oh, my God. I don't think I have. Maybe tried a little puff. Wow. It's not for me. while we're talking about the crater economy though i will say one thing about substack is that there are days when i'm so excited to have a substack and that i you know i've vacillated for a long time whether or not i should do a substack and there are some days when i love that i am flexing my little literary muscle and i'm so happy that it goes straight into the inbox of so many friends and colleagues and people i work with and then there are days when i'm reminded that the creator economy is a bottomless pit and you never feel like you're caught up and it's a giant hamster wheel.

32:32So it's a double-edged sword. But I'm happy I launched it. And it's been great to get feedback. And I'm always in the comments. Also, Subject feels a little less hostile than other social media platforms. I don't know if this is a cycle and that it ends up, everything ends up toxic just in life and in general. It's toxic in a very weird way that you will not be subject to because you're not toxic. But I think there is a mild underneath brewing. But I think your little corner of, it's kind of like Twitter, your little corner of Substack will keep positive because you are a positive person. I'm happy to hear that.