Shop Girl

20 Dec 2024 · 1 h 24 min

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Fashion People Podcast Episode Summary

Episode Title

Shop Girl Podcast Description Fashion People is hosted by Lauren Sherman, a Puck correspondent, featuring insights from industry insiders about the fashion industry's behind-the-scenes dynamics. The podcast delves into various aspects of fashion, beauty, and media, discussing topics like designer changes, retail challenges, and brand strategies.

Episode Overview In this episode, Lauren Sherman interviews Tiina Laakkonen, a multifaceted figure in the fashion world—model, muse, designer, stylist, and former owner of "Tiina the Store" in Amagansett. Laakkonen shares her experiences in the industry, her decision to close her store after a decade, and reflections on her life in various fashion hubs across the world.

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Key Topics Discussed

  1. Tiina Laakkonen's Background
  2. Early Life: Grew up in a small town in Finland, nurtured an early interest in fashion through her mother, who taught her sewing and crafting.
  3. Career Journey:
  4. Started modeling after being scouted in Finland and moved to Paris.
  5. Worked with renowned designers and eventually decided to pursue fashion design at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture.
  1. Experiences with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel
  2. Internship Insights: Worked closely with Karl Lagerfeld during a transformative period at Chanel.
  3. Described Lagerfeld as a unique talent who designed every aspect of the collections.
  4. Impact of Japanese Designers: Discussed the influence of Japanese aesthetics on Western fashion and how they introduced new artistic expressions.
  1. Evolution of Fashion Retail
  2. Tiina the Store: Opened a unique retail space focusing on exclusive brands like Arts & Science, which provided a distinct shopping experience.
  3. Emphasized the importance of storytelling and the connection with artisans behind the products.
  4. Retail Landscape Changes: Observed a shift in the retail environment in Amagansett and beyond, with an increase in luxury brands and consumer demand for quality over quantity.
  1. Industry Insights
  2. Current Fashion Trends: Noted a growing boredom among consumers with mass-produced luxury items and the decline of brand loyalty as quality decreases.
  3. Future of Retail: Advocated for a return to meaningful retail experiences that prioritize quality, sustainability, and customer connection rather than mere mass appeal.
  1. Closing the Store
  2. Decision to Close: Explained the reasons behind the closure of Tiina the Store in 2023, including the challenges of maintaining a high-quality retail experience.
  3. Reflection on Success: Emphasized the importance of exiting on a high note, allowing for personal growth and exploration of new opportunities.
  1. Future Aspirations
  2. Consulting: Laakkonen expressed interest in consulting for fashion brands, leveraging her extensive experience and vision for a new approach to the industry.

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Key Takeaways

  • Personal Connection: Laakkonen's success in retail was rooted in her unique vision and ability to connect with both customers and designers.
  • Quality of Goods: The conversation highlighted the ongoing struggle within the luxury fashion industry regarding quality versus marketing and the importance of authentic experiences in retail.
  • Shift in Consumer Behavior: There is a noticeable craving for more meaningful retail experiences, suggesting a potential resurgence for small, curated fashion brands.

Conclusion Tiina Laakkonen's insights provide a fresh perspective on the fashion industry, highlighting the need for a balance between creativity, quality, and consumer engagement in retail. As the industry continues to evolve, her emphasis on authenticity and storytelling remains crucial for the future of fashion.

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For more discussions on fashion trends and insider perspectives, tune into the Fashion People podcast for bi-weekly episodes.

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Transcript

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0:04Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is Tina Lackonen, the world famous stylist, designer, model, muse, and shop owner. We're talking Karl Lagerfeld, London in the 90s, the Hamptons in the 2010s, and so much more. Before we get going, I wanted to remind you that if you like this podcast, you'll definitely love Puck, where I send an email three times a week called Line Sheet. If you're a fashion person, you get that reference. It's an original look at what's really going on inside the fashion and beauty industries.

0:42Line Sheet is scoopy, analytical, and above all, fun. Along with me, a subscription to Puck gains you access to an unmatched roster of experts reporting on powerful people and companies in entertainment, media, sports, politics, finance, the art world, and much more. If you're interested, listeners of Fashion People get a discount. Just go to puck.news slash fashion people to join Puck or start a free trial. Now let's get started with the show. Happy Friday. It was a big week online. She'd on Thursday. I contemplated the future of Versace, which is for sale by its owner Capri. Question is, who buys it?

1:21What happens with the CEO? Does the CEO stick around or do they have a new CEO? What happens with Donatella? How long does she stay? They need her, but they also need to start thinking about succession. I get into all that and more. plus Sarah Shapiro, S. Shapiro at Puck.News explains the absolutely nuts situation at Macy's and what might happen there. That's like a real past, present, future of department store story. And it's interesting. Sarah worked at Macy's Inc. for a long time under the Bloomingdale's moniker. And so she has a lot of thoughts. And also this week it was leaked that Nordstrom is about to close this deal to go private.

2:05The Nordstrom family, they have an investor and they've wanted to go private for years. So there's a lot going on in the world of department stores. Another business of managed decline that we love to cover at Puck. Sarah also got into a really interesting story about whether or not designer departures boost sales for a brand. So she's looking at Carvin and Bottega Veneta in particular on that one. And finally, you should check out Rachel Strucats' interview with startup advisor Julia Hunter, who is best known as the former CEO of Jenny Kane, but now is advising Goop on its turnaround. She was really transformative at Jenny Kane and is really smart, up and coming executive.

2:47And so let's see if she can bring some magic to Goop. Def, check out the interview. And I hope you enjoy this interview with Tina. She is amazing. I am obsessed with her. She is the coolest person alive. As many of you know, her amazing store, Tina, the store closed in Amagansett in 2023. It is now the Rose store that's out there. The row occupies that space, which is fitting since I think a lot of the Tina customers are also customers of the row. And we reflect on her life as a shopkeeper, why she stopped, but also for years working in Paris, London, New York. She has honestly done it all and seen it all and knows more about the fashion industry and the history of fashion industry than most people.

3:35So let's get onto it. Tina Lackanen, welcome to Fashion People. Thank you. Thank you so much. What did you have for breakfast this morning? Oh, I thought you might ask. And I didn't have anything special just because you might ask. But I had some of this bread that I'm in love with that I've been eating for years. It's a local baker. Her brand is called the Night Owl Baker. And it's a triple fermented sourdough bread. I think it's a half rye, half wheat. And it is incredible. So I have that with some nice almond butter. And also because it's such a good apple season, I have local apples and that's my breakfast this morning.

4:26Wow, that sounds perfect. Triple fermented. You're really speaking my language. That's my dream, Brett. That sounds so good. I'll send you some. It's amazing. I would love that, actually. It sounds so good. So you live on Long Island? Yes, I live in Sag Harbor. And how long have you lived there for? Long Island, I've probably lived full-time about 12 years. What's it like living out there? It's wonderful. I've spent very little time there. Do you feel, and we had some reader requests to talk to you about how things have changed since you've lived there. But the time that I have spent out there, it feels so far from the city, even though it's so connected to the city in terms of like people going in and out constantly.

5:17but the time it actually takes to get there, it's like living in a different state or something. It's far. What has your experience been, someone who grew up in Europe and lived in Europe and lived in New York and moving somewhere like that? Well, I don't think it's far. I mean, I can actually - It feels so far to me. I can get to the city from here, not during the summer, but like off season. I can get to the city in two hours. And you know, you take the ambassador, which is very chill, very comfortable. You listen to a podcast like yours. Yeah. And then you're there. I mean, it's, it's not far at all.

5:59The thing that has happened to me is, um, I lived in Manhattan for 12 years and, uh, well, I was still working as a stylist and I had my busy, busy, busy life, which I feel like that's the New York City life. Once I left and started to live here, I realized that each place has its like, you know, pluses. And the pluses here are that you, I think it's a healthier environment from every point of view. It's physically, mentally, emotionally healthier because you are connected to nature. You are, you're just living a different life. The energy is different here and you don't have all the distractions that city offers or the pressure that the city gives you.

6:45So I'm happy here. I really love it. And I don't go to the city much anymore. I feel like it's not my place anymore. I don't feel like it has anything that I need in my life. it sounds weird, but no, I understand that. I hope that someday I feel that way about it. You're, you're young. You, you'll, you'll, you know, you'll find your happy place, like a calmer place that, uh, that gives you that feeling that your quality of life is as, as good as it can be. And, um, you have everything that you need and want where you are. I do. I feel that way in Los Angeles. The interesting thing about moving here and then then going back to New York all the time.

7:35I was in New York for 15 years is that I don't have any desire to live there. And when I'm there, I'm not like, um, so I'm the opposite. I'm always very tense, but at the same time, like I need to get back. I need to get back. I need to get back. I need to do all my things. I need to do all my things. And I hope someday I don't feel the need to go back so much. Am I planning a trip in mid-January right now? It's so dumb. It's like I'm truly an addict and New York is my drug. It's crazy. But it's also because of your work. You are still in the game. You know what I mean? And the game is in New York.

8:19And if you are still, you know, that's where it is. It's not, it's certainly not out on Long Island. You know, it's like, if you work in fashion, this is not the epicenter of the American fashion. This is something else. I don't know. Tina, the store felt like it for a while. So, so how did you get into the game? You grew up in Southern Finland. Yes. Were you interested in fashion as a child? Like, how did you end up moving to Paris and going to school there modeling? Well, I grew up in a very small town right on the Russian border in an area of Finland called Karelia, which is very pretty. I was very blessed.

9:02My mother, she made all our clothes when we were little, me and my siblings. And she taught me how to sew, how to knit, how to crochet, how to do all these things. And she had a very simple but very wonderful style about her. Like the clothes she wore were always very nice, but humble. And I was interested in clothing because I was interested in beauty. And I remember looking through magazines and seeing the thing that really caught my eye. I don't know how old I was, early teens, was the reports from Fashion Week in Paris and looking at all the glamorous, especially Yves Saint Laurent. It totally spoke to me.

9:51I was like, wow, this is beautiful. This is special. This is extraordinary. And as I got older, or very early on, I was very specific about my own clothes, never wanted to wear anything that anyone else wore, started to make my own clothes. and I was good at like drawing, making things. And I thought this should be my career. I want to be a fashion designer. So I had applied to go to a fashion design school in Finland. And right before I was about to start my school, I ended up leaving Finland and going to Paris to be a model. I got scouted. And that was such an eye opener. I mean, I really got to see the fashion world from the inside and get, you know, this incredible insight of the clothing, the designers, the people, the business.

10:51And but I did not love modeling. It wasn't like, you know, this is the 80s. And I'll always remember like being made up with like, because I was very pale, fake tan, blue eyeshadow, tons of makeup. And I felt like, whoa, this is not me. I felt very connected to the more like the Japanese aesthetic. And one of my very first jobs was to be in the Comme des Garcons show. And that I still have the total visual memory of walking into that tent in the tillery and seeing this army of these tiny little Japanese women. It looked like an army of women all in black. And the shows were fantastic. They were fantastic.

11:38They were like blew my mind. Like, wow, this is it. This is the great fashion. So I kind of decided that I was only going to do the modeling for as long as I could make enough money to buy an apartment and then go back to school and study fashion design. So that's what I did. I went to that very famous, because I wanted to learn the craft. And so I wanted to go to the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, which has a different name now. But it's the old school that people like Saint Laurent went to, Issey Miyake went to, loads of really talented people went to, because they really taught you like the draping, the pattern cutting, the, of course, sketching.

12:23and I just loved the idea that you could learn something in a more traditional way rather than studying and learning how to be cool and trendy I didn't want that and not that that was really happening in Paris in the 80s anyway but so yeah I went to school and I loved it I absolutely loved did and then I mean very luckily a friend of mine friend of mine I got to meet Carl Lagerfeld through a friend of mine who offered me an internship at Chanel which was you know again totally blew my mind I couldn't believe it it's like I say my life is like a Cinderella story It truly is. And I got my internship at Chanel in the design studio working with Carl.

13:18I think it might have been like 88 or 89, early 89 maybe. So still very early in his tenure. Yes, yes. And I was there at that when things changed. It went from like the era of Inès de la Fressange being the face of Chanel and the whole, in French you say cabine, you know, the models. They were these couture models. And the shows were very much like more traditional Parisian fashion shows. and then the era of the supermodels and in comes Claudia Schiffer and, you know, the rest of them. And so that was a very, very exciting time to work there. What was he like? What was he like at that time? And what was your relationship like with him?

14:09I think he was extraordinary. I mean, he was an extraordinary talent as a designer, and also he was an extraordinary human being. We worked in a space, I can't remember which floor it was, but right above the store in Rue Cambon, 2931 Rue Cambon, in a tiny little space, two little rooms. There was a big desk that Gilles Defour manned, who was the head of the design studio. And when Carl came in, it was his desk. and then on one side was Victoire de Castellan doing the jewelry and then next to her was Virginie Viard doing handbags for the show, only the show bags and embroideries. And on the other side of the room was little me doing hats, flowers, buttons, swimwear, jeans, assisting the ready-to-wear coordinator.

15:09and then there was a couple of other people like usually interns and then in the little other room was uh the coordinator for the ready to wear and her assistant so this is the team we worked with this was the smallest team I've ever seen in any house but that was a different time then and and And the one point I wanted to make to you is because, obviously, there's so much talk about Chanel and what's happening there. And all this is, I can tell you that when I worked there, which was maybe three years, Carl designed every single thing. We're talking every single thing. Every accessory was designed by Carl.

16:03Every piece of clothing was designed by Carl. Everything. There was no other designer. There was no stylist. Nothing. He did it all. And this is unbelievable, considering at that time he was doing three different houses. But, you know, he would send us these packs of sketches with instructions. And our job was to get the prototypes done, get the things moving, get the, you know, everything. We would call in the suppliers and say, here are Carl sketches for the hats. Here's Carl sketches for the, you know, shoes. Here's everything. And the ateliers would start working on sketches to do the twirls.

16:45But seriously, he designs every single teeny weeny bit of everything. And I think that's incredible. And I don't think that exists anywhere anymore. I don't think there are people who are capable of that kind of vision, talent, conviction, and ability to just churn out work like that. And that's why, you know, some of these names that are being thrown around like, oh, could take over Chanel. I'm like, please. I know. Because I don't know, maybe Chanel doesn't need a designer like that anymore. But this is like, this is the level that the house of Chanel was used to. Yeah. To have someone truly, truly a real designer.

17:38So by the time this runs, the answer, we may have the answer of who, who gets, who got the job. But who do you think is interesting? Because it's funny, there are a couple names that were thrown out early on. And from what I've been told, like those people were never even called. So it was an interesting, it's been a, and then there are other people that I know for sure who have interviewed and all that, but it's an interesting like approach that they've taken. But is there someone in your mind knowing the brand so well that you think is the right person for the next 20 years of, of the business, not, not for the next two or five or what have you?

18:24I don't, I'm not even sure it needs to be 20 years. I would say 10 years for sure. Yeah. I think Katie, you know, that makes me feel good that you think that Tina. I think so because, you know, for me, this is a job for someone who understands the culture, the history, the essence of Chanel. I don't think it should be someone who goes in and starts changing it into something else. I think Chanel is one of those houses where you have, like Carl actually used to say, Chanel is the easiest house to design for because it has all these elements that you can just stick on everything. You can make anything Chanel by putting the CC buttons, the gold chain, the camellias, the pearls, the twiggies.

19:15He always said it's the easiest. But I do feel like it needs that French je ne sais quoi, that woman. It needs that French chic, that ease, that, I don't know how to describe it, but it needs that attitude that is very, very French. And it needs to come in the clothing and the woman, that woman, that Chanel woman is. And I think Hedy would do it beautifully. He would give it edge, which I think it needs. I agree. But he would not sort of like, I don't know. I think it could go so wrong, so easy. And I think he would know how to handle those codes and do beautiful, beautiful, beautiful and make it more youthful.

20:18Yes. Yes. And also the sophistication like that. His last collection he did for Celine. You look at those clothes. They're exquisite. But ready to wear, they are beautiful. They're beautifully made. And there is a sophistication that Chanel needs, which I don't think is there right now, but in the clothing. I agree. I agree. It sounds like he is not, it's not going to happen. And this Matu Blasi thing is really feels really real. But we'll see. It's interesting. It's like a person who hasn't shown all his cards, which is. It's we don't know what he's capable of. Everyone else in the discussion, you kind of know what it would be.

21:08And he's the only one that you don't. So whatever whatever got him to this level of the conversation, he must have had some really extraordinary project. And I guess he's he's had so much success behind the scenes before Bottega. I'm a huge fan. It's just interesting. It's definitely not. The other day, Amelia Petrarca was on the podcast and said, Chanel needs a bite. Like you mentioned an edge. And I do think that's can he deliver that? I don't know. But it's I think what the good thing about that idea is that people like him and are excited to see what he can accomplish. And we wouldn't know.

21:52There are some other people in the mix who I think it would be disappointing. So we'll see. It's it's a new sounds like a really new changeover of how in many ways, Many of the people that you worked with were still there up until I'm sure some of them are still in Paris. So there is a new way of working. And it is like the most exciting house because there's so many ingredients, but also the hardest because there are such high expectations. And people know it so much better than if you think of something like Dior. Or no one, if a regular customer doesn't really know what a bar jacket is, but they definitely know what a little like tweed, the boucle jacket is from Chanel or that box jacket.

22:43You know, so that it's interesting. One question about that time for you. I read, I forget which biography years ago, but it was, I don't know if it was a Chanel biography or if it was about the whole company. It was more about the whole company. It came out in the 90s, I think. And there was a lot I was very interested in in the early 90s. There's when the hand they really started to like develop the handbag business. And that's when it started to become much more successful. from your perch on the design team could you see that change or or just in the way like your friends and people were shopping and in paris of buying bags and shoes and things like that or and and this is i don't want to get too off topic but you you obviously you mentioned the japanese let's let's answer that first question first and i want to go back to the Japanese really quickly because I think it might be related, but did you, was there a sense like, were people buying Chanel bags?

23:48Were like, when did that sort of pattern of behavior set in? Well, first of all, I don't know how many people know this, but during the Carl years up till somewhere in the nineties, the actual Chanel bags that people would buy were not done by Carl. There was a separate design studio that was run by Frances Dine and her little office was above our office. But there had been some kind of weird falling out between her and Carl. So she was not allowed to enter Carl's studio. And so we never saw her. But she was the one who designed what was then called like the commercial collection of handbags and shoes and accessories.

24:33And Carl was only in charge of the show pieces. and the bags that people were buying were the ones that came from her studio. And I do remember going to work on Rue Kanban in the late 80s, early 90s. There was always a queue outside the store, but it was mostly Japanese people buying. And they were only allowed to buy X number of bags because it was sort of the Japanese boom of economy economy and they had extra money and they wanted to buy, you know, luxury goods in Europe and Chanel rightly so was sort of like top of their list. And, and they were buying the Chanel bags like crazy. It was unbelievable, but I don't think Chanel bag was sort of like a fashionable thing then at all.

25:27Okay. At all. And for myself, I bought a red Kelly bag and Hermes was considered so bourgeois, so uncool, so like not fashionable that for me, that was the edge. Like buy some granny bag that is so like beautifully made exquisite and and in bright red I remember I used to wear like a Chanel no Hermes scarf wrapped around my head red lipstick and and that red bag and then like a black com de garcon dress that was my kind of edge so cool while working at Chanel, which I never wore Chanel and not really anyone else working there. And Carl liked that. He always said to me, he said, Tina, you and I, we wear the best clothes because I wore Comte Garçon and he wore Comte Garçon.

26:27So how did the Japanese influence the French and the European designers? And what was that dynamic like? I don't think I've ever spoken to anybody about it who was there and lived through it. What was that like being there and them coming in? Because it was a totally, like when I think about like Issey Miyake, is it that line plantation? Plantation, yeah. Like just that way of dressing. I know a lot of people were like obsessed with that when in that era and wore only Japanese designers, but it just feels like it must have been like so jarring for Europeans and Westerners and, and, um, totally different from anything that had come before it in some ways.

27:23Yeah, I think it was, it was all those things. And I think it was that it was a reaction. Uh, people, people reacted really strongly and positively to all those clothes because Because especially living in Paris, the fashion scene was very bourgeois and very classic, kind of boring. Like there were no cool young designers. I mean, there were some designers like Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Jean-Paul Gaultier. But it still had that Frenchiness, you know? Yeah. So I think when the Japanese designer showed up, there was more of a freedom, like an artistic expression and freedom and, yeah, like a serious twist to it.

28:13But I also think that at that time, for example, Comme des Garcons, there were always clothes that were kind of classic in the collection. The clothes now, they look like sculpture. You know, they look like you're like a performance artist showing up for some kind of, you know, thing. But in those days, you could buy Comme des Garcons. And I always called it like classic with a twist, but like a serious twist. Yeah. And I think it was just, it was liberating. You could feel like you didn't have to look like you're all buttoned up and bourgeois and following some trends. Like, awful. And, yeah, I think it's just sort of, it's a look that either it speaks to you or it doesn't.

29:04And in my youth and in those early days, in the 80s and 90s, that was my look. And I loved it. I think it was just, they were fabulous, those clothes. Yeah. How did you go from being a designer to being a stylist? Well, it's another Cinderella story, actually. When I was working at Chanel, one of my sort of responsibilities was hats. And in comes Philip Tracy, straight out of fashion college. And we became incredibly good friends and we're still very, very close. And I met, actually, I met Isabella Lowe at Chanel. she showed up to do a photo shoot with Carl, Carl photographing. These were early Carl days of photography.

29:58And I was one of the models. Carl liked to put me in his pictures, like middle of the night, Tina go and stand there, hold this, flowers or whatever, and take your picture. But anyway, this was a proper fashion shoot for British Vogue, and I met Isabella through that. And then I knew Philip through Chanel. And at one point, Philip was staying with me in my flat in Paris. And I was expressing my frustration of how kind of a little bit boring Paris was for me and how it wasn't very exciting. And I might want to have a change. And he said, Tina, you should be a fashion editor at Vogue. And he seriously said it like that.

30:47And I said, yeah, why not? And he was like, okay, I'm going to put Isabella to this, and she's going to get you an interview at Vogue. So off I went to London, and I had left Chanel already at that, and I was working at L 'Anne Vand for very... Who was the designer at L 'Anne Vand at that time? There was nobody. It was sort of like a team. It was after Claude Montana was either, I don't know, kicked out or left. And so I was there part of the design team doing knitwear and accessories. And it was nothing. It was not very exciting. And I knew it was not going to go anywhere. So at that point, Philip was like, come to London, get a job at Vogue.

31:29And I still remember going to my interview wearing a beautiful Chanel blouse of black lace and chiffon and red lipstick. Amazing. From my portfolio stuff that I had designed and whatever. And at that time, Alex Arne Schulman was the editor-in-chief. And she asked me, why do you want to be a fashion editor? You are a designer. I said, I can't believe I said this. I said, well, for me, it's really the same thing. One is not so different than the other. And, you know, I have my experience being a model. I know about photography. I work with Carl on photo shoots. and I think I love photography. I love fashion and I didn't even realize what a big deal it was, but then she had me do a like a photo shoot as a test to see if I could manage it and she really liked the pictures and she offered me a job and next thing I know I was in London as a junior fashion editor to begin with at British Vogue.

32:32Where did you live in London? I lived in London in Maida Vale and in the end, Notting Hill. And then I ended up in Queens Park at the end. Did you like living in London? I mean, during that era, that was really a big moment for that city and the British culture kind of seeping out into the rest of the world. Yes. That was the era of what they call Cool Britannia. It was sort of like, yes so there's so many exciting things happening and I feel like I hit Paris in a really good time and I hit London at a very good time and I was lucky to have friends like Isabella and Philip who then sort of introduced me to Alexander McQueen all these brilliant people and then And of course, through my work at Vogue, I got to work with incredibly talented people and do really the sort of photo shoots that I don't think those could happen ever again.

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33:39It's a different time and different thing. But yeah, I was very lucky, lucky to be in London at that time. Are there any photo shoots that are really memorable to you, maybe the outcome or just the experience of being on them? I loved working, you know, photographers that have like real vision. And in the earlier days when I worked there, it was still film, you know, people you would shoot film only. There was no digital photography. So working with people like Juergen Taylor, David Sims, Nick Knight, you know, just people who really, who knew what they were doing. You know what I mean? It's like they have a world, they have a woman, they have a vision, and you kind of just enter that world and work with them.

34:35And that's exciting. That's really, really fun. And there were less restrictions about like what you could shoot and what you couldn't. So I remember one of my Juergen Teller shoots, the theme was latex. so so we had Stephanie Seymour and Juergen working with a large format camera which was not at all his you know typical um technique and and uh and all the clothes were sort of latex and it's fabulous I mean beautiful like Manola Blahnik patent leather shoe like gorgeous killer shoes and her looking incredible wearing these, you know, full on rubbery dresses. And it's just fabulous.

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36:07Being in that world with Isabella Blow and Alexander McQueen and everything, like, Cool Britannia coming up. Could you feel the, like, significance of McQueen and Galeano living in London and what they were contributing overall to fashion? Like, in the moment, did it feel as big as it does now looking back? I don't, I'm not, you know, I never worked with Galeano. I would photograph his clothes. It's less my sensibility in a way, sort of. It's a little too costumey. But Alexander, from day one, I knew he was brilliant. And that goes back to, like, in the same kind of way that Carl was, he had sort of all the tools, had full control of his work.

37:08Alexander had the same thing he knew how to cut, how to tailor, how to sew, how to and he had this incredible world that he was inspired by and his vision and he's it was just very multi-dimensional and deep and unique but just by going by the clothes I could tell that he was a unique very very unique once in a I don't know generation or more talent and I have some clothes that he made for me and some of which were actually at the Met exhibition because in I met him in very early on his career I always say I knew him really well before he became famous so those clothes just putting on the jacket that looks kind of like it doesn't have much it has no padding has no no not much structure in it but you put it on and it looks the most hyper tailored most precise thing I've ever worn and that's talent that's someone who knows what they're doing.

38:26So I always, I told him, I know that people think that this is something Isabella said, but no, she did not. I told him, I said, Alexander, you're the next Yves Saint Laurent. And he laughed at me because I felt like he had that, not the same way as Saint Laurent, But, you know, just the full picture of talent. And I still think so. I don't think there has been anyone like him since him. And, you know, it's just because it was him. And in the same way as Carl was Carl because it was Carl. It takes a lifetime of living and learning and practicing to become a master like that. and that's what you know alexander was i lived in the uk in the mid-2000s and i remember i went to this hauser and worth i don't know if they were opening a new location or something and they had this event in a courtyard that was tented and there was some sort of buffet because this was i mean i was 21 i had no money and i was always like going to events to eat for for free uh And Isabella Blow was there and she was wearing a McQueen suit and a hat.

39:51And I just remember it was the most chilling, one of the most chilling experiences of my life just because her presence was so, and I wasn't, I was really into, I read British Vogue as a teenager and was like it, but I'm, I wasn't super educated about, I knew who she was, but wasn't like, oh my God, it's Isabella Blow. But I just remember seeing her and it felt like the room stopped, like her presence was so intense for me. And I'll never forget it. But it it was such a when you in in the 90s as as the industry, like I think about it from the business perspective and looking back. And that was sort of the end of it being this cottage industry and everything started.

40:43The Arno and the first Pinot rose up and Arno started to hire all these people. Could you feel that change? Like that was like the beginning of the consolidation of luxury and it becoming really the luxury industry and not the fashion industry. Could you sense that then? or was it too early? Or what did you think of Arno hiring all these young guys for these jobs? Were people excited because people were getting paid? What was the feeling about it? I think, obviously, Arno is very smart. He knew that he had to bring in the edge to these kind of tired couture houses. And what a smart move it was.

41:31I mean, it's sort of, yeah, actually it started that big boom. But I think, you know, in Alexander's case, he was still, his heart was always his own brand. It wasn't sort of, you know, he needed the money, yes. But I don't think that was the world he was built for. But I don't think that you got that feeling so much in London. You know, London was always sort of like everything was done as a favor, as a freebie, as a, you know, nobody got paid a penny for anything that you did. So in London, you didn't really feel that there was a shift into any kind of more organized luxury kind of business.

42:18Like even looking at today, a lot of those brands never didn't survive. You know, sometimes I do a mental list of successful designers from the 90s in London and where are they now? And they're nowhere. Yeah. It's a different, you know, the axis of power exists elsewhere, did not exist in London at all. But yeah, London was always the pool that, you know, you went and fished your talent from because obviously that's their strength. They're not the best business people, but they're incredibly creative. Right. And then you moved to New York, right? As New York sort of starts to be more at the center of things.

43:03And was it personal that you moved there or were you drawn to it? What made you make the move? Well, I moved to New York. I met my husband in 2001. So that's when I moved to New York. And so, yeah, the main reason was really personal, but I was happy. I was, I felt like I was sort of done with London. Sounds weird. It's like done with Paris, done with London, forward motion, let's go to New York. And yeah, so that was very different. Then I became like a freelance stylist and worked with loads of different people, different capacities and different angles of the world of styling. And it was fun.

43:51It was great. You know, New York was really booming in the early 2000s. And yeah, I loved it. It was exciting. What did you think of the young designers coming up at that time versus the ones in London? because it's just a different, I always think of America as, it really does, like American fashion comes from 7th Avenue. And I think even when you look at the way the big companies are run today versus the ones in Europe, that history does play a factor. What did you think of all the young kids who were trying to make it in fashion in New York versus what you experienced in like at the center of creativity in London?

44:39I think fashion is a really, really, really hard business to get into and be successful in. I think it's sort of like a dream, but I think once the reality of it kicks in, it's not easy. and I'm not sure. I think the system in New York where there's all these funds and things that are like bringing up people, encouraging them, giving them money, it's sort of a little bit like false dream in a way because I feel like if you win one of these things, you think you're set for life, you're going to be successful, You're going to be all those things. And the reality of it is much different. And they also, because of the system, the way it works, there's always someone new, someone cooler, someone different, someone for whatever reasons.

45:39This year, it's about this kind of designers. As the years go by, you're sort of like getting lower and lower on that cool factor thing. And to build a business, I think it's incredibly hard. You know, I think it's you can grow a business. And then once you plateau, unless you get some serious money pumped into your business and smart people behind it. I don't know. Hard. Very hard. Yeah. I mean, if you look at Proenza Schooler, they're the perfect. not well perfect is probably not the right word but they are like the ultimate example of how challenging it is to incredibly talented people who took a lot of money really early and then they just every single step in their career has been reflected how challenging it is to build a a fashion business anywhere, but in the U S in particular, where there is this, um, there, they are encouraged to start their own brands, which I just don't understand.

46:52It's, it's not like you said, it's basically, especially now with the way, like the cost of raw materials and things, it's impossible to make any money. And, um, it, it's interesting. I moved to New at the end of 05. And that whole group that sort of came up with these competitions and you get half a million dollars or$200 ,000. And that doesn't do anything once you pay the taxes. I remember one design team, I did a big piece on the fashion fund in 2014 and I followed them around. I went to LA with them for their event and I became close with a lot of the designers. And there was one team who said, oh, if we win, we're going to, we're going to hire a full-time publicist with the money.

47:47And I was like, no, no, but, but it's a, um, what do you do with it? That is, is useful. It's just such a, and there was this sort of dream, I think after Mark Jacobs and Michael Kors and Narciso Rodriguez all got these big jobs in Europe that like you start your brand, you get a big job in Europe, you get paid well at that job. And somehow your brand also becomes a big thing. And it just was, it's just a nearly impossible. It's one in one in a million that succeeds. And it's, uh, yeah, I don't know. I wish that there was sometimes when you talk to young designers, they wish that there was like more infrastructure, like there is in Europe in terms of like, just being able to have a baseline of keep going without having crazy outside funding.

48:44Cause there's more help from the government or from the manufacturers, but I don't know. It's just anytime someone says they're going to start a fashion brand, I'm just like, you're a complete lunatic and you only can do this if, if you know that it probably will fail. But can I tell you something? This is something, um, that I experienced for my store is, is there is a thing called the parallel universe in fashion. So I call it the fast fashion and the parallel universe, which for me is much happier place. It's full of these brands that are small, but very successful. Yeah. And I always tell now people that if you're going to do a clothing brand, stay small, small, small, small, because you can run a small business in a very efficient kind of way and, and have a business.

49:46But where it goes wrong is when people think that being fashion designer is to be famous, to be like, you know, on whatever, but it's, it's, it's such a different mindset. If you're seeking fame through your, your work, you're on the wrong track already. If you are focusing on your vision, your brand, you're building a, you know, customer base, you can do something really good. And I've seen that many, many times. And, and that's why I, that was one of the reasons I wanted to open the store was to, to sort of showcase and celebrate these designers and brands and makers who are doing something fabulous, but nobody knows who they are in the fashion industry.

50:42And that's okay. That's okay because there's room for all kinds of people. But the difference being that these people have a business and they're not concerned about having a publicist or doing a fashion show or being at this thing or that thing. No, they're just stick to what they do and they do it really well. And that's just a different way of seeing things. But unfortunately, if you're looking for fame, then that's not your arena. That's a different ballgame. I wonder if it has something to do with the way society in America operates and what success equals. So here success equals growth and wealth, whereas maybe I don't know, but where you grew up, success is defined differently because of the way that the culture operates.

51:49I don't, I don't know for sure, but that is to me, I see it very much as like America is like a push country where you are supposed to big is, is success. Whereas maybe in other places in Europe in particular, success is seen as a example is this brand Norse projects that my husband loves. He wears, for a long time, they've changed a little bit, so he's moved on. But I remember he, there's one shirt that they make that he really, really likes. And they just, they made it for 10 years and they just stopped making it. And anytime he messages them, he says, I need something or there's no, it doesn't feel like they're trying to get big or expand too much or anything.

52:47It's more about we have our store in Copenhagen and we're going to make what we want to make and that's it. But I don't know if you view it that way as someone who's lived in all these different places and operated in all the different economies. Well, I just think that, you know, like I said, there's so many different ways of doing the making clothes, building a brand. And I just think the idea of teaching young people in fashion schools, the idea that the goal is to be the next Karl Lagerfeld or the next this or that is terrible because it's It's sort of like you're already shifting your focus on your goals to something that is so not realistic and not important.

53:50And so it's a tricky world. It's a tricky world to enter and you really have to make that decision. Like, who do you want to talk to? Who is your audience? Who is going to be your customer? Who is going to love what you do? But most importantly, I think you have to love it yourself. You can't start just pleasing people. That is terrible also. So I think that I'm of the mindset that I think there are some great big brands and good for them. I think the idea that you have to keep growing nonstop is frightening at what cost to, you know, to everything, the world, the environment and every, you know.

54:41And also I feel that customers, they're being duped into this mindset that you constantly need new stuff. Like the idea that we need to like rethink our wardrobe every three or six months. And it's like everything else you bought before, no matter how expensive it was or whatever, is redundant. I think that it'd be nice to kind of educate people. And that's what we did at the store. It's like less is more, buy better quality, buy less things. just buy the best version of something rather than buy loads of things that you're kind of just second guessing like oh this is nice this is nice um yeah i just think that the fashion world is is in a very very scary place right now it's it's things that are big have gotten way too big and there is not much air left for definitely nothing in the middle If you're in the middle, I don't think you're going to make it ultimately.

55:48And then the small brands, they're going to make it because they're smart and they decide to stay smart.

56:12or in the app stobern. Action, small prices, great joy.

56:43everything is sort of like a point of view. You know, it's like you work with, either you work for someone who has an extremely, you know, sharp point of view or, but you also develop your own point of view. And I felt like working for people, it was always you're accommodating someone else's vision. Whereas I wanted to figure out a space where I could say, these are my favorite things. and I thought a store would be like a nice platform for that. To be honest, I always thought, oh, cute little store, few things, I'm going to hang out, drink tea, and sell a few things. And next thing I know, it sort of grows into this big business.

57:29But yeah, ultimately it was about, I called it my favorite things. I felt like I wanted to show people a different way of shopping, a different way of experiencing retail. And that's what we did. I think I really, I'm sure I read about your store when you first opened, but I think I really started to kind of go on the website wormhole when probably a couple years after you opened. And I had been in Japan and gone to Arts and Science and bought a shirt and was looking. And you were really the only, you and Noodle Stories, probably the only sellers of that brand in the U.S., right? Pretty much, yeah.

58:15Yeah. There's been sort of smaller. But, you know, Sonia Park, who is the designer, the creative mind behind Arts and Science, is someone I've known, I don't know, maybe 20 years, you know? So these are also a lot of people like Sonia from Arts and Science, Christina from DOSA, William Wellstead. These are people I've known in my kind of previous careers and life. And it was a really nice way of bringing all their beautiful work into the store. Tell me about the store itself for people who haven't been. And it's like a farmhouse almost, right? Yes. It's an old, it's on the main street, Amagansett, and it's an old merchant's house.

59:05So it's very lovely. We bought the building and after we bought it, we sort of restored the original, you know, old part and added an addition to it to the back, but in the old kind of same style. But it's wonderful. It's got a porch. and then the interior opens up to the old part, which feels very charming, but cleaned up. And then the back is super high ceiling, skylights. It feels, people always say that when they walked into the store, they felt like it was almost like an art gallery, which I think is a little exaggerated, but it felt very like not your average store. it just had more of a I mean I did all the you know the visual merchandising that you know and putting it all together I did all the buying I mean I just did so much and we had Faye Too Good from London who did all our display furniture and so it had a really it had a really kind of nice balance of something very modern and a little artsy, but also kind of warm.

1:00:26I wanted the store to feel very warm and welcoming. And it was a great, fun, hard work. You know, it was all those things. But I loved that we were able to create something like that in Amagansett because when we opened, it was like there was a couple of outlet stores there. I can't remember what, Bass Shoes and stuff like that. But I like the idea that we were completely off the beaten track and we created this very successful, exciting new retail space. That region has changed so much over that period of time. Did you feel responsible for some of that of like having you, you created this destination that people wanted to go to.

1:01:30And now, I mean, that area is totally different. The row is in your old store, but there are many stores there. There are more people there every summer. What, But what is, how has that area changed since you opened? I think it's changed a lot. I mean, we were basically the only like a real, let's call it luxury store in there, definitely in Amagansett. But then I think people felt like, oh, this store is busy. It's doing well. Oh, maybe we should look into being there too. And then, you know, stores show up. And then, I mean, the big change was in East Hampton where all of a sudden it's like, whoa, they're all here.

1:02:19All the big brands are here. And I think there must have been a moment where people said, wait a minute. There is a possibility for serious business out here. Because before I opened my store, my dear mother-in-law said to me, said, Tina, why do you want to open a store in here? People don't shop here. And I said, well, they don't shop here because they have nothing to buy. And if you give them something to buy, they will come. And they did come. And I think retail is like that. I mean, if I wouldn't call they're like lemons, but, you know, a little bit like, you know, people like to follow each other and see if they do well.

1:03:07Oh, I want to be there, too. And, you know. It is what it is, you know, but there's definitely I did not know. I would be the first to admit that I did not know the potential for the business out here. and and you know obviously slowly but surely we found out and it's I would say this area has the single best customer base I've ever seen in my in my whole life anywhere like I I've had people come from London Tokyo and kind of witness it and everybody would say we don't have clients like this. And then that's because the, the amount they spend in the repeat customer and the loyalty is how would you measure that?

1:03:57Yeah, exactly. It's exactly, I mean, you, you, you create, I always said the Tina, the store was, wasn't for everybody. That was never, I didn't want it to be a store for everybody and anybody, you know, I want it to be very, very specifically my point of view. And I said, if this is something you're into, this is going to be the best store for you. And, and if it's not your thing, that's okay. And so we, we, we had incredible customers, like incredible. And, and, uh, and that, you know, that was the success behind, you know, behind the success of the store. What were people drawn to? What did you find as you started buying and people started buying from you, what were some of the sort of themes of what people came to you for?

1:04:56It was really about discovery. You know, people came to discover something that wasn't readily available elsewhere. But in the world of what I call that parallel universe kind of luxury, beautiful things, brands that you didn't see anywhere else, unique, kind of sophisticated, but easy, kind of real clothes, beautiful home things. Again, handmade, artisanal. I think just people came for the discovery. For them, it was like, show me what you have. Wow, what is this? And the kind of storytelling was a big part of the success of the business too. We always introduced new craftspeople, makers, and told their stories.

1:05:56And I think people want that. People don't want just stuff. They want something deeper, more meaningful. And that was a big part of what we did. You mentioned Faye Too Good. And I just looking back and looking at the way that you bought for the store and the things that you put in the store, it feels very influential in terms of what other retailers would buy. I'm sure a lot of bigger retailers would come in and see things. And could you feel that influence you were having on much larger department stores and multi-brand online luxury players, that sense of if you pick something, it meant something to the greater industry.

1:06:49Definitely. Definitely. I think I can take credit for putting some of these smaller great brands on the map. And yeah, no, I don't totally, because I'm, I have very close relationships with these designers and brands and they would always come to me and said, oh such and such is coming for an appointment and also what i would do sometimes is i would tell people like i would tell um carol from noodle stories and say carol go and look at this brand yeah noodle stories is a store in los angeles and amaris is in uh orange county both wonderful stores that definitely shared a little bit of a language with you although they're unique and just as you are unique.

1:07:36Yeah. I mean, you know, the beauty of these brands, smaller brands is that you can tell your own story. Like you would go to an appointment at Daniela Gregg's and you could spend hours and hours like creating your own collection in a way that, you know, you can't do with bigger brands. So you would choose your styles, your fabrics, your colors. So we'd all end up having something very different because we all have a different, you know, point of view. But, yeah, no, I've seen it. I've seen it in Amagansett, too, that, you know, as soon as Tina the Store was gone, that some other people showed up.

1:08:16And, you know, why not? I'm all for, you know, for people to be successful, and I want these brands that I kind of discovered and promoted to be successful. and it's, yeah, it's nature of the business. Everybody's, you know, you remember in the, you know, heydays of Barneys, people literally go to Barneys to see what they're selling so that they could, or Dover Street Market was a kind of a marker for a lot of people like, oh, this brand is at Dover Street Market. We have to have it too. It's sort of, it's nature of business, you know, people follow. Why did you decide to close the store? Which you did in 2023?

1:09:06Last year. Last year, yeah. Well, this goes back to the fact that, you know, the business was created by myself and my husband. My husband is the, I always called him my enabler because none of this would have existed without him. He's an incredibly smart, capable, brilliant person. And he carried all the kind of the heavy lifting of the business side of it and figuring out the building and everything, everything, everything. So my sole purpose and not purpose, but my job was to really to have the vision, the buying, keep the store going, the customers, all that. so he felt that the way the business was because the business was growing and it was very successful that we had reached the point where it was sort of untenable like working 24 7 you know yeah if when you own a business you basically live with it 24 7 and he just felt that it wasn't something that we could keep going in the way we were working and he's smarter than me and he said Tina you're not going to be happy if you keep going like this working like this and thank god for that and and um so I like the idea of going out on top like saying we did this we did great We created something successful.

1:10:39We can break it and we can start again if we want to. It's like you just know that you've reached a point where if I ever wanted to do Tina the store again, we could start pick it up from where we left. It wasn't it wouldn't be sort of like I start from zero. So it was sort of a perfect timing and just allowed us to exhale and relax and live a little and travel and just shift focus in our lives to things that we weren't able to do during those 11 years that we were working nonstop. So it's been great. I'm very happy we did it and no regrets. Yes. When you mentioned that people would come to the store for, they want essentially something special.

1:11:41And I think the industry has gotten, has reached this point where luxury is so mass that the consumers of fashion are really looking, the people who shopped at your store, I think there are more of them who want the experience that they had at your store. Maybe they have a different taste or whatever. They are looking for something else, but they don't have anywhere to find those things. What do you think the next phase of this industry looks like as it sort of bifurcates into the masses buying mass goods and the fashion consumer, the enthusiasts wanting something special. And that probably converges more than they'd like to admit.

1:12:34But I think it's a huge reason why luxury is dragging right now. People talk a lot about the price, but I think the big reason is that people are just really bored with what is available on the market. What do you think happens now? Do you think there's a whole new generation of retailers and designers who kind of try to do what you did? Or do you think it's just not the same business anymore? Well, I don't think it is the same business anymore. And I think to go back to that point about people being bored with stuff, of course, they're bored with stuff, because I think it's the too muchness of it.

1:13:16It's just you are being bombarded by stuff all the time. And at the same time, everybody has access to that stuff. So I don't know, it doesn't feel that special. And also, I think, to be honest, the quality of that, even that what people call luxury has gone way down. It's kind of shocking. And the prices have gone way up, the quality is way down. And I think there's a point where people start to say, like, I don't need another one of these things. I don't need another handbag like this. I don't need you just get like being force fed so much that you are like, you know, you're like one of those ducks that they make foie gras with, you know, you'd be like, your liver is like done.

1:14:05You can no longer digest any of it and you kind of go off it. But I think personally, I think there is an enormous need for great retail. Like people are ready and they're wanted, but yeah, there's definitely room for like discovery type of retail where you just walk in and it's none of that stuff that you see elsewhere. And not just the product, but also the experience of it all. I think there is huge demand and need for that. And I think that should be part of the future. And as far as then the big luxury, luxury brand, they're just going to keep on going, marching on because there's so much money in this world.

1:15:05And it might not be the kind of customers we had. My customers were not particularly interested in any of that. But there is always new people, Um, people who just want all the regular luxury, let's call it. Are there any brands that you're really personally invested in right now that you would carry if you were still operating that you didn't get to maybe when, or you had just started right before you stopped? To be honest, I'm not thinking on those terms. I'm thinking that if I was to do another version of Tina the Store, I would not do exactly the same. I don't think it's, I don't like repeating myself.

1:15:55I don't want to do the version of what we did. So for me, I would have to come into it from a very different angle and something different. different but in the kind of 100 in my sensibility uh but something different and I'm not seeing I can't really pull out you know brands and say these are the things I'm looking at you know in my own life I'm still very much of an arts and science kind of person uh and I still you know have my Zanini treasures that I I kept for myself for me these are like forever clothes and this is the kind of world I like to exist in. But yeah, definitely I would, whatever the new reincarnation of Tina, the store would be, would not be exactly the same.

1:16:56What do you want to do next? Do you have any plans? What are you working? Are you working on anything right now that you can talk about? I'm still dreaming. I'm still, you know, on my kind of inspiring and thinking kind of phase. But one of the things I'm really interested in, I would love to do some consulting. I would love to, you know, consult for people. I feel like I have this really good toolkit of experience in the fashion world on many different levels. And I would like to kind of use it for some brands or some companies as a kind of project kind of base thing. But I think ultimately, I think something will come up.

1:17:55Something will. Yes, many things. Yeah. Tina, we didn't even get to talk about The Row. Well, we can talk about The Row another time. I think The Row is great. I think there's a brand that has figured it out. I mean, big congratulations to them. That's such an achievement, especially in this country. and I think what a clever way to kind of create your space in that world and to have the balls to do it on your own terms and not do the same old, same old. I think it's brilliant and I'm, you know, seems to be working. Yeah. Yeah. It's interesting. All the things that we were talking about, about American designers and young designers.

1:18:47And do you think when someday we'll do a whole podcast about them, but do you think that their success, because I think that their, their rise sort of parallels so much of, of your store and, and they're clearly very influenced by arts and science and, and just, there's so much that they did that feels in connected to what you do, but they were very, very big from very early on in terms of distribution. But do you think it is that thing of, you have to like really have a tunnel vision and not let other people, what they tell you to do influence what you do? Because it feels like they just decided we're not going to listen to anyone else.

1:19:38We're just going to do it the way we want to do it. And yes, we're going to be widely distributed, but we're also going to only make the things we like and et cetera. Yeah, absolutely. One of my favorite self-made quotes is, fashion is a dictatorship. It is not a democracy. It has to have that very firm, singular point of view and stick to it. It's very hard to, you know, once you start second guessing yourself too much, you're already kind of like on thin ice. But I think they have really, they've set the rules for themselves as in, this is who we are. This is our vision. This is the woman. And listen, I think that is their strength.

1:20:24I think some of the brands, a lot of the brands, they're just here, there, and everywhere. And I think you can't please everybody. Try to find your audience and please that audience. And then you're golden. Words to live by, Tina. Thank you so much for doing this. It was such an honor. And this is the longest podcast I've ever recorded. I'm sorry. No, why? I could talk to you for another two hours. We had to rush through a couple points, but your life is extraordinary. You really should write a book. Oh, maybe. Maybe. This was so, so great though. Thank you. I hope we meet in person someday soon.

1:21:02Me too. Me too. Thank you so much. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. This show was produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to our executive producers, Puck co-founder John Kelly, executive editor Ben Landy, and director of editorial operations. Gabi Grossman. An additional thanks to the team at Odyssey. J.D. Crowley, Jenna Weiss-Berman and Bob Tabador.

From the publisher

Tiina Laakkonen has done it all—model, muse, designer, stylist. But for the last decade, she ran Tiina the Store, in Amagansett. Tiina joins Lauren to discuss why, after years of selling Arts & Science, Dusan, and Sofie D’Hoore to a hopelessly devoted clientele, she decided to call it quits. They also discuss Paris in the ’80s, London in the ’90s, New York in the aughts, the Hamptons in the 2010s, and Karl Lagerfeld.

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