The Timmy-Kylie Discourse and Jonathan Anderson’s Big Year

16 Dec 2025 · 50 min

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Fashion People Podcast: Episode Summary

Episode Title

The Timmy-Kylie Discourse and Jonathan Anderson’s Big Year

Hosts

  • Lauren Sherman: Puck correspondent and fashion and beauty memo writer.
  • Guest: Tallulah Harlech - Fashion director, stylist, and founder of Sylva.

Episode Overview This episode dives into various topics concerning the fashion industry, including:

  • The future of Versace and Alaïa
  • Jonathan Anderson’s recent endeavors
  • The cultural significance of Timothée Chalamet and Kylie Jenner’s fashion choices
  • Discussions on concepts of vulgarity in fashion

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Key Discussions and Insights

  1. Jonathan Anderson's New Curiosities Store
  2. Anderson has opened a new store on Pimlico Road, London.
  3. The store offers a curated lifestyle experience rather than just fashion items.
  4. The shift from just selling clothing to providing lifestyle products aims to ensure sustainability and relevance in the changing fashion landscape.
  1. Future of Fashion Brands
  2. Versace's Future: Lauren discusses her reporting on the brand’s upcoming strategies, hinting at a potential leadership change.
  3. Alaïa's Evolution: There’s an ongoing dialogue about the brand’s need to adapt while keeping its identity.
  1. Timothée Chalamet and Kylie Jenner
  2. Chalamet and Jenner’s partnership evokes mixed feelings. Their choice of wearing Chrome Hearts is criticized for being vulgar.
  3. The hosts express their views on celebrity fashion, highlighting the ongoing scrutiny of public figures and their fashion choices.
  1. Vulgarity in Fashion
  2. A historical perspective on vulgarity in fashion is shared, including references to past designers like Karl Lagerfeld and Gianni Versace.
  3. The discussion contrasts the past notions of vulgarity with current interpretations, examining how designers like Jonathan Anderson navigate these themes.

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Key Takeaways

  • Cultural Influence: The episode emphasizes how contemporary figures, like Chalamet and Jenner, affect cultural trends and consumer perception.
  • Fashion Evolution: Brands must evolve to remain relevant, particularly in the wake of changing market demands like sustainability and resale.
  • Generational Shift: There is a call for millennials to take on more authority in the fashion industry, as they are seen as more in touch with changing consumer values and trends.
  • Material Innovation: The conversation touches on the increasing importance of material choice in fashion, especially for consumers seeking both aesthetics and functionality.

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Upcoming Themes

  • Lauren mentions her plans to further explore the changes in Versace's leadership in future episodes.
  • A teaser for upcoming discussions on innovative fashion trends and the evolving identity of luxury brands.

Closing Remarks The episode concludes with a sense of excitement for the future of fashion and the creativity brewing within the industry, especially among younger designers and visionary leaders.

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Additional Notes

  • The episode showcases the dynamic nature of fashion, with discussions that reflect on both current trends and historical contexts.
  • The conversation is enriched with personal anecdotes and insights from the guest, providing a deep dive into the evolving landscape of the fashion world.

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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:04Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is Tallulah Harlick, stylist, consultant, and founder of Silva. We're talking Jonathan Anderson's banner year, the future of Versace, Timothy and Kylie, women in ties, and so much more. Happy Tuesday, everyone. I hope you had a great weekend. I am in Los Angeles for the foreseeable future. I'm hosting a puck dinner tonight at Mr. Chow's in Beverly Hills with Glam Squad. it's a fantastic group and I'm excited to get dressed up and have a smart conversation definitely more conversation than get dressed up although I have so many clothes it's insane I don't have I mean I go out like twice a week here I just wear jeans and sweatshirts it's fine I'm gonna find a good outfit for this more from me on the dinner later this week in line sheet news Monday was chock full I have lots of new reporting on the future of Versace Sex Global.

1:07And big congrats to Elizabeth Vondergold, an early fashion people guest on her new gig as chief revenue officer of Poshmark. So Elizabeth, as many of you know, has worked everywhere in multi-brand retail, from Bergdorf to Matches to Farfetch to Net-A-Porter. And the fact that she chose a resale platform for the next thing is really telling, because honestly, like, where is she going to work? Because all these places are falling apart at this point. Not all of them, but a lot of them, unfortunately. And one of the reasons for that, I would say, is that resale is coming for everyone. Brands and retailers alike need to figure out how to make it a part of their business plan.

1:45Anyway, let's get going with Tallulah. This was a very fun conversation and made me want to hop on a plane to London before the holidays. But I endeavor to stay on U.S. soil for this time.

2:01Tallulah Harlick, welcome to Fashion People. I'm happy to be here. How are you doing? How was your weekend? Everything's good. It's exciting. It's not ending. Nothing is stopping before the end of the year. It just all keeps pummeling forward at speed. Did you check out the new J.W. Anderson store on Pimlico Road? That's where I need to get to because the big reveal is oh so exciting and the fact that he's marching into every section of our lifestyle and lives fills me with deep happiness. I think that the fact that it's in this kind of interior center sector of London that's so coveted is an incredibly smart move.

2:45Can't wait to go. His curation is just so brilliant. Yeah, I went to the store in Milan and it's quite small and it's on, it's on, it's on the big, like off the big shopping street, but across from the little tree store and it's just a really nice shop. But there were so many tiny little beautiful things that cost a lot of money that I wanted, like Wedgwood cups or whatever. But what do you think about this, this idea of like transforming that brand? Because that kind of brand, J.W. Anderson, which is a designer brand, but yeah, I guess you would call it like entry designer. So it's expensive.

3:28It's not crazy expensive. And there is a real customer for that. But from my perspective on the business analysis side, it's not an easy thing to sort of manage because you're very much, it's predicated on trend. So if the loafer bag does really well, you have a great two years. And then how do you fill the next two years after the loafer bag sort of, you know, slows to the sales slow down, which is inevitable. It doesn't matter how good something is. And it seems like what they've decided is let's sort of erase the blackboard. We're still going to have accessories. We're still going to have fashion, but make this more about curating life.

4:15And hopefully that lifestyle element will bring people in and then they'll, you know, happen to buy a bag or shoe or what have you. Totally. And I think the kind of genius of being able to go there and buy a spade or a sort of pot of honey with incredibly chic Houghton Hall bees or a chair or a Christmas decoration or anything that's kind of within the realm thematically. And I think really seasonally as well, it's sort of a kind of the most sort of upmarket way of having the chicest ever grocer where you get the kind of beautiful seasonal supply chain of like peaches in the summer or whatever it's that kind of thing but in object yeah i they posted he posted jonathan posted like a bunch of vignettes from the store and there was one with a chair with a pringle of scotlitten uh argyle in the perfect like primary colors and then a pair of green slippers and I was just like this is the perfect and and a very very insidery menswear guy dm'd me who is like the most the the most insidery of like American preppy menswear guys and was like should I get that sweater and I thought oh he really and and he also loves Jonathan's whole Dior preppy Bruce Weber thing, but it was, it was a sort of, um, for me, like the authorities authority endorsing it.

5:49It, he just, they're just really nailing it. And I'm sure it's because the team there, there he's, they've been there forever and he's so close to them, but it's an interesting concept and it's nice that he's being given the space to develop it because 10 years from now, this might be a great business right now they're working it out and it's it's nice it's so nice that it's not just clothes and shoes totally and it's bringing this kind of incredible lifestyle of luxury back to London in the way that we have Asprey and a sort of silver picture frame oh yeah but like this is all the kind of silversmiths of the UK in the way of like everything is made in Ireland made in Scotland made in England that Jonathan's really putting in and you know planting on the product and it's brilliant he's bringing luxury to the uk in the way that luxury sort of got posted out to europe yeah especially post-brexit and interesting he's always there's always another layer so there was a big we were talking before we started there was this big q a in wwd this week with jonathan newsmaker of the year upon reflection what do you think about what he's been through this year and and how it's all shaking out and it's not just Dior it's not just J.W.

7:14Anderson it's also all these movies there's he's doing so much he really is like the culture he he's making films with Adam Curtis he is the culture maker I'm like the number one American fan of Adam Curtis so I was like oh my god it's so good it's unbelievable the way he can touch and kind of reconceptualize and realign and recurate and come up with his own originality and thought is unbelievably brilliant and to me he's just I'm so happy to see that somebody with such fantastic taste I think another way in which I love him is there's something incredibly kind of kinetic and almost rural about him of course Obviously, he grew up in a farm in Ireland.

8:02And there is that kind of he knows how to kind of pull a carrot from the ground and what a seasonal green leaf is going to taste like. And that kind of the fact that someone like that is a big brand like Dior is incredible to me because, you know, there have been people. I will not lay names who have been much more Liberace and vulgar. And Jonathan is incredibly chic and has really an amazing sensibility of quality, the land, touch, that through line of yarn, and literally a quality of life. It's amazing that he's across so many cultural initiatives. is it's funny i was looking at this harper's bazaar from i bought in in new york from i think it was 93 or 94 it was liz tilberis era but um there was an interview with carl lagerfeld and gianni versace and they were talking about vulgarity which was very it's very interesting maybe i will pull it up and quote it but the question the thing that's interesting about Dior in particular is when you are a cerebral person who can can do kind of really commercial straightforward marketing and understands how to like get to the customer from a marketing perspective but runway wise is not a straightforward designer and when when the last 10 years of luxury have been all about or what people call luxury or the that group of brands has been about being vulgar and to move back to something that is um more you considered i guess is the question like it's interesting to see him wrestle with with that because that's what i feel like the runway which the men's I was obsessed with I loved it the women's I had a harder time with not because I thought it was bad but because I did it made me not feel good and I think like when you're at that level when it's like been pure commercial for so long and true and truly vulgar like how do you obviously you know a lot about that house and and it's different iterations and its history how do you think he was he successful in wrestling with that i think he's always he's always dropped a thought that has been maybe challenging for people to reconsider a shape or a silhouette or a way of being.

10:47I think him and Benjamin challenge that with us. And to me, almost in the way, if we think of how he aligns it with his VIP or within campaign, and actually the life that's built around it and the coordination of those that he works with seems to assemble it so that at the end of the day, it always lands and makes sense. It can be questioning or perhaps a little uncomfortable at first glance of what am I, how do I, how do I take this on? How do I embody this? But from what all of the things that happened in the early days of JW Anderson into things that were maybe challenging or challenging ideas through Loewe, really, in the end they completely land within desirability definitely yeah I would I'm thinking about this sweater that I had for a jumper um that I had from like probably his first or second women's collection that was a navy sweater with ribbon sort of crosshatch weaving on the front and then it had a little yellow latex collar which is kind of gross and vulgar in a way but it was like very preppy and and you did you see it no one would think like oh she's wearing a latex collar and it from that time which is that's like 2011 2012 okay here are the quotes from carl and gianna versace about vulgarity both of you have been accused of vulgarity Karl Lagerfeld says vulgarity is not disturbing while people are young but as the years pass people start to do things that they shouldn't for example a certain physical aggressiveness is an older person in an older person style dress is vulgar in my opinion and Gianni Versace says vulgarity doesn't exist it's an attitude stupidity is vulgar but a woman who dresses badly but is intelligent and happy to be the way she is is not vulgar.

12:54I agree with that. Vulgarity is for people who are frightened, not for us. Good answers. Good. Good. I know. I wish there were Q &As like that in magazines today. On the subject of vulgarity, did you see Timothy Chalamet and Kylie Jenner's matching Chromeheart? Yes. Can I swear for emphasis? Please. fucking horrible and I really like Jesse Jo Stark yeah I like I like them too I love that family they're really cool I just think they looked so it hideous I mean let's it's fucking hideous no right so the the the question is I had this conversation with so many people last week why are they together like because they are really together yeah which I wrote this I was like I'm allowed to talk about this even though this is not some you know where it's not some I'm not Willa Bennett publishing Cosmo if if I was I'd be writing an entire essay about why these people are attracted to each other but but they're clearly using each other as well in some ways I don't think it's strategic.

14:11I think he is a kid who grew up in Hell's Kitchen in artist housing and he is dating a hot girl from Calabasas who like my personal thing is when someone and I live in L.A. so I see this all the time. when someone is that augmented, I don't understand how it can be attractive, not only on a physical perspective, but also just from an image perspective. I find it really hard to take. But the outfits together, it's such an interesting, what is he thinking? They're having their own David and Victoria Beckham in purple moment. I guess so it's just it's just um it feels like everyone is so self-aware today yeah that you would know know that it would it doesn't look imagine if Chris Black styled him Chris Black would just be like here's some penny loafers to know that it would be good come on I need I want preppy time I agree I want preppy time I want preppy Timmy too I so want preppy Timmy And the thing is, is like preppy Timmy with like paired back Kylie is a beautiful situation for me.

15:29She's she's gorgeous. She's so beautiful. My favorite is Kim without makeup a couple of weeks ago when she released like the eight minute video on her Instagram when she hadn't got through the baby bar again. And there was this this crying, which I reposted on my stories for a second, which got loads of laughs. But to me, Kim makeup look makeup less. Sorry, is unbelievably beautiful. like she's so crazy gorgeous and I I just love stripped back Kim and stripped back Kylie is just kind of I love it love it and that's how I want to see them yeah I wonder how they will the interesting thing about that family is I've written probably 15 times that they've peaked and they never do I don't think it's it's just interesting the way people have positioned this relationship as being quote unquote strategic.

16:21I don't think that that and because the Jenners are wearing the Marty Supreme jacket. I actually don't think it is. I think they're having a really hot time together. You can tell. Exactly. Whether it's and it's just interesting when someone like that is thinking about his career and life. I also think he is trying to live his life as authentically as he can. And his true self is wearing goofy shit like that. Like it just is. He's so into it and he loves it. And he and I agree. I would love preppy Timothy. And, you know, I much rather him be in the vein of Josh O 'Connor of that sort of look. But that is not who he is and it's it's just an interesting these couples now if you think of taylor swift and jason kelsey there are a set of them that are just so watchable and so every single thing every single minute is scrutinized and obsessed over and i find it fascinating it's it's um Because you're so it's not like when Brittany and Justin or David and Victoria wore these matching outfits and they were in the paper for two weeks and then you're done and they come up every six years or whatever.

17:50It's like constant. And so. It's just interesting to think about how they. Don't care and keep going. I mean, the other thing that's funny that's happening at the moment with Dior and Chanel is this Montague Capulet thing. If you think about it, you've got A$AP at Chanel, but Rihanna at Dior. You've got kind of Lily-Rose Depp at Chanel, her partner, 070 Jake at Dior. Like you've got these Montague Capulets switching through. You've got Nicole Kidman's daughter presenting Jonathan Anderson, the designer of the year award at the British Fashion Awards. But then Nicole is re-signed through contract at Chanel.

18:42It's like the playthrough of different family or partner members at different houses is funny. And those two brands. The amazing thing for me about LVMH is this. they pick a brand that they want to compete against and they work for years and years and years and years to sort of emulate but then also deviate and in some ways surpass and you know Dior to Chanel, Louis Vuitton to Hermes, another is Tiffany to Cartier which is an earlier like Like they're in that's still they're still working towards that. And they may never surpass them in sales or in in sort of being in the center of people's minds.

19:34But it is an amazing thing to watch unfold for the past 20 years. And yeah, the Dior thing is is it's been really fun. I mean, when we look back, I'm doing an end of year wrap up on the 29th. Everybody should tune in. But when we look back, like this is such a fun time to be in fashion and writing about fashion and styling fashion and being at the center of it because all these guys are also only 43 years old or 42 or 41. This is like my Korean subway take of like, let's go millennials. Let's go. I am so sick. I'm so unbelievably bored and sick of the Gen X's in the fashion industry who've taken grip and hold for way too long and only employ one another and their friends because they can talk about how they were at a fashion show in 2001 and I was at school.

20:27And it's like literally, it drives me nuts. And most of them haven't had an original idea since 2014. And it's like, get out of the way. the millennials are coming through to take the authority positions. Let's go. It's true. I think a very smart CEO once told me most designers have a good 10 years of creativity. And I think there are exceptions to this rule for sure. Mark Jacobs is a good one, but there are many. But like this is our prime. This is the time to make money. It's the time to be creative. It's the time to do amazing things. And I love that they all got the chance and are being empowered because it is so fun to see this all unfold.

21:13And also it's so fun to watch it on Instagram, to be able to see Mattu and Jonathan and what they post on Instagram and just like the incremental imagery of the things they're doing. And who knows, maybe they have whole teams doing it. it feels like they're the ones doing it, but in those two cases, at least. But it's just been so fun to see it all sort of unfold. And it's going to be the next 10 years. It's amazing. I'm like unbelievably excited about it. And I think because it did feel that there was a real bottleneck of creativity and something that it just wasn't getting through. And a lot of people, when I say this, they're like, but what about your mom?

21:52And I'm like, my mom's a consultant and that's how I think it should be. There's somebody else who's the stylist. There's somebody else who has that position. She's a consultant. Add that experience and words of wisdom at the table. Absolutely. That's key and vital. I'm all about that. But I think it's almost because I've watched her in her career in that way. Particularly after the age of 50 and she's 67 and still working and I'm kind of like, that's how I want to see consultants and I don't want to be ageist about it. I think that's wrong and I do think there are exceptions to the rule. I love the fact that Carl was as old as he was and still doing the work.

22:31It's just, I just immensely feel that there has been too much where millennials have not been able to step into the authority positions and now we're really seeing it. It's so exciting about Chloe Mount at Vogue and it's like, this is it. Look how Sarah Moonves is owning the game. It's like, here we are. This is brilliant. Let's go. yeah i think a couple of things one is that there are there's a thing about mindset it doesn't matter how old you are but you are willing to understand that things change so if you are willing to understand that things change and your mom might be comfortable being a consultant because she understands the rapid pace of change and she understands where her value lies a lot of people don't understand where their value lies.

23:17So I think that is part of it is that there are people who are 75 who can write a sub stack and everyone wants to read it because they understand change and they understand like being in the moment. Then there are people who are 25 who don't understand at all. I also think the big issue with Gen X is that we're all living for much longer now. So they don't know what to do. And if you're not sort of in touch with what you're where your value lies as a human being, you just think I'm going to keep doing the same thing over and over again. And and it's like, no, leave when the party is still going or whatever.

23:59Like understand that that you're and that is a thing why I think Marc Jacobs still has value, because he's been able to sort of let go of things where like the the success of heaven if he was an asshole that would have never happened but he was like yes I'm gonna bring in these like interesting young people who are obsessed with what I did in the 90s and let's make a different kind of brand for someone who doesn't like really want to be deeply involved in the business he has the instinct to let people do what they're good at and I think that's the thing that that has been such a struggle and it is now we have the energy, we have the ability and it's like, let's fucking go.

24:47Everybody's let's fucking go. That is the theme of 2026. Let's fucking go.

24:58So on this topic, I wanted to briefly chat. I have a big thing on Monday about like what is going to happen at Versace. And I have a bunch of reporting. We're not going to get into it here because I think there's a lot going on behind the scenes and these companies don't really want to announce anything yet. So you have to read line sheet for most of it. But look, like the sort of thinking that I've heard is that Peter Mulier is probably the person who's going there. And I'm just curious hypothetical and I would just like to say for the record that in my first piece about Dario leaving there was a person I'm not even going to name him here that everybody was saying it's going to be and I knew that wasn't true and I didn't even mention him it's someday I'm going to be like see I told you all it wasn't him I knew it was Peter but anyway hypothetically if Peter were to go to Versace and and leave Aliyah which you know we'd love for him to be alive forever but if this is what's happening he will also be great at Versace because he is truly one of the to me like maybe the the big talent of that generation there's there's probably five but what do you think about that match hypothetically and then also like who would you like to see at Aliyah what do you where do you think Aliyah needs to evolve to now whether or not Peter is there Well, I think that it connects to me in so much as Peter obviously worked with Wrath and with the Prada connection and, you know, the acquisition.

26:38It's sort of, I can really see a through line of Mutia and Wrath through Prada around Versace and therefore for Peter to be incredibly well placed. And I think in terms of a seduction, the body form, the way of, again, brand image and campaign. Take a second for Tyrone Le Bon, who always makes images and seduction and desirability about now. He's excellent at doing that. And how we saw that through image of a liar, which now to an incredibly sexy, seductive brand like Versace makes a lot of sense. so I can really see this landing perfectly. I think, you know, what was incredible, Alaya, was the hit-making in accessories and the hit-making in the bags and the shoes that, yes, I remember Alaya shoes, a kind of cagey Alaya shoe before, and certainly the leather of the belts and things like that, but how that grew in an enormous and an amazing appetite for that was so well done and to the degree that that can then transfer over Sir Versace, that would make a lot of sense for him to hypothetically be there.

27:55I also want to say, I think that it's an important moment to think the head of merchandising and like these really good head of merchandisers should be talked about more. I know a couple, they tend to be very secret squirrel people, but they are phenomenal. You live and die. To me, you live and die by your head of merchandising because I've seen incredible collections that then get put to shit because a head merchandiser is crap with terrible taste and it goes nowhere. Equally, vice versa, I've seen it lift and lift off because of a head of merchandising who's unbelievable with product. Look at Gucci Alessandro Michele, Jacopo Venturini, who was his chief merchant.

28:41They tried to hide him for years. They didn't want anyone to write about him. eventually became the CEO of Valentino and had to leave because of, I think, a lot of personal issues and was back with Alessandro. But you're 100 % correct. And that shoe, the thing about Aliyah that is remarkable to me is A, sometimes I think the sexy dressing thing that has been happening that women suddenly realized they had millennial women. And I fall smack into this. So it's like this complicated thing where I have to take myself out of it. But you do hear, you hear Alexa Chung talking about this too. Like in our twenties, we were like wearing Peter Pan collars and shit.

29:26I maybe once I, it was never for me, but like something happened where suddenly I was like, Oh, I can wear a form fitting dress. That's okay. It's not like, it's not vulgar. And that all came from Peter. Like there, there, when, When you go to the New York Fashion Week and you see the runway and all the dance dresses and the sort of way that they roll around or like swirl or spiral around the body, it's all Peter. And so not only was that shoe merchandised up the wazoo to the point of like every single brand has many of them and it still looks good. And also the tackle bag has been a huge inspiration to be able to create a bag design at that level and not have the backing of an LVMH or carrying and make it successful.

30:24Even Richemont is a big company. Yes. But like their fashion brands are not heavily funded. It is amazing. And to think about the thing that I wrote on Monday is that Versace is I remember when Capri bought Versace and I did a call with the CEO of Capri. I don't remember who else. I remember I was in Paris and I had to do all these like radio things in America because it was a really big deal when they bought it. And I remember him saying that the brand recognition of Versace is like through the roof. It's completely insane. And that was the big reason they did it, because they felt like if we can make any brand bigger or sell more of anything, it's this.

31:10The reality is they never, the brand I think is smaller than when they bought it or it's around the same size. And so this idea of this person who was behind the scenes for so long and really supporting another person's vision, but beautifully like I look at those old Dior and also the old Jill Sander. I mean, those Jill Sander collections are my favorite collections ever, like for me as a consumer. and the idea that he would be given this brand that has so much goodwill and and yes I feel bad about the Dario thing and it sucks but Dario's going to get a great job and we're going to see him somewhere else I'm not worried about him but but um to have someone like that given this power of this brand is extremely exciting to me and also you know that's the long and the short of it.

32:03I mean, who then fills the place is, is, I don't know. I mean, I've always, you know, I'm a kind of, I have a Gothic sensibility. I'm either kind of ultra skater boy preppy in a sort of Carhartt trouser and a long sleeve old palace skater tee, or I'm sort of Morticia Adams, little black jacket or something of that realm in the evening. But for me, it's, It's kind of like Martina, who worked with Demna and has subsequently consulted. She was very good with The Evening, where she has been roving. And I wonder at what point she will be placed. I also think that, as we've seen, it's a certain personality that can be a creative director and take that kind of forward-facing role as it stands in this environment.

32:55And I wonder about that. I mean, you know, closer to home, I work with Michael Stewart, who creates Standing Ground, the LVMH Savoir Faire Prize winner. We will be doing a couture show in July in Paris next year. You know, somebody who I work with and watch fit the body, fit the body, sculpt always in the coordinates of the body. It's it's that. Yeah. It is such a tricky brand and there was so much apprehension around anyone doing anything with it because it was so it's it was just so pure. And the fact that he was able to evolve it and make it more commercial too is remarkable. And it's it's tricky.

33:45I'm sure maybe they're still figuring it out. We'll see. um it who knows and you know these contracts as i always say a caveat it could all fall apart especially in italy where you can just buy the contract out which uh which is cool like i think that's what you should be able to do anywhere the this like putting people in prison is crazy but like in italy you can just buy out the non-compete i think it that should be everywhere um okay i I have a couple more things I want to chat with you about. I would like your opinion. I have a real issue and I've been trying to figure out how to, cause it's come up for me a lot this week.

34:25A friend of mine is my friend, Amanda, who comes on here sometimes she has been, she's wearing a floppy tie for, for a recorded event. And there have just been like a lot of ties on people that I think are cool recently. I have a real issue generally, and this feels extremely misogynistic and I need to unpack it and maybe you can help me with women wearing ties. Like I just don't like the way it looks, but I'm, but I wonder if it's that I don't like, it's less women and more that I just think generally ties look costumey. Not always, but sometimes, many times. And, and so I am just curious how you feel about women wearing ties and why you think I might have such an issue.

35:11I mean, I think I tend to agree with you. So this may all be a bit one-sided I mean it's very sort of I seem to remember old images of cat power in in ties at a certain point in time the late 90s Katie Grand always well not always but has been known to sort of talk about how she loved styling a tie it's very sort of stylist of the 90s with music folk um that we go there but yes it has been around and of course a sort of Julia Roberts thing and I do kind of wonder editorially it can make a lot of sense in this moment of someone so unbelievably gorgeous in total menswear can just be so again seductive it's quite you know if you get someone who has all the components of being ultra feminine and then you dress them And within that moment, in that frame of that light in a shot, this very sort of Arthur Elgore or whatever, it's like, oh, my God, I think I need to wear a three piece suit and a tie.

36:16That's amazing. It's kind of Arthur Elgore black and white image. It lends itself to that as an image only, which is why I think we saw it musically for like album covers or press release stuff back in the day. I don't I'm not as convinced out and about in it. I in the same way. yeah I think it's funny you mentioned the Julia Roberts thing because she looks so beautiful in that photo but I hated that tie when I was six years old I remember being like I don't like that like I it's a great suit it's Armani she looks incredible her hair looks so good she just looks so gorgeous but it always has been off-putting to me I said to my friend Amanda I think a floppy tie that's a little different that feels like a little bit more um 80s sloany pony type thing um that that i i feel like a little less uncomfortable with but it's interesting that it's just become so big now i guess it's from saint laurent like and him putting them on the runway where it makes sense yeah but but and it was also mostly men's i don't know if he's ever put them on the women's room yeah I don't know either and it's it's it's I think it's it's tough and I don't really do you remember that era it was sort of like when was it the blouse moment in sort of 2013 where we there was a lot of this kind of like chiffon blouse thing that had a bouffant sort of tie thing and there was always this sort of ruffly neck tie piece you remember that yes that that really got everywhere including it you know to sort of top shop and it was a sort of like yes it where where we had gone from like going out top to sort of this sort of smart form or it was sort of like with a kind of pleather because it was never real leather pencils and a sort of yeah i i find that quite complicated and i think it's i think i think it's a tough look and it it's sort of it's hard to pull off and it never really stays very long if it is a trend it's gone quite fast no it's true we're just like really in the middle of it

38:31so the final thing i wanted to talk to you about is silva which i found out about via the one and only plump sykes her sub stack is amazing speaking of a gen x who knows what she's doing i complain to her all the time about gen x and she does she just goes darling you're so right I completely understand what you mean. I mean, she does because she is of her time. She understands the moment. Okay, so can you explain to me what this is and why you decided to do it? And can I buy the leggings when I'm in London next time? I really want to come to London before Christmas. I promised myself I wouldn't fly before February.

39:16But I really want to come. Can I buy something so I don't have to deal with the tariffs? Yes, but then you'll just have to be here to receive it. Yes. Okay. Tell me about Silva though. I love it. It looks so good. And I should have bought it when I was like almost bought the shirt and I didn't for some reason. And now feel silly because it was definitely pre-tariffs when I first started looking at it. So basically, you know, this new category of where beauty and apparel meet, if we think of every luxury brand that has a beauty component and how this notion of self-optimization, biohacking, wellness, skincare, skin wear could ever become something.

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40:02For me, as someone with incredibly sensitive skin, who grew up on the countryside, who had this whole sort of lifestyle of eating vegetables from my mother's garden, this whole kind of like nature life when I wasn't at boarding school. but how this kind of way of summit with CEOs used to be men in Brioni suits and then became men wearing on. And where performance wear sort of stuck to Nike run the marathon faster, spanks or skims have control wear. But actually, skin barrier is not just your face and your neck. your skin is 70 % across the rest of your body. And where was this component if we were so frightened about microplastics, if we were so fearful that transdermal absorption could be happening with the type of fabrics that we are layering on our body every second of the day?

41:02How could that be something where a supplementary choice within your wardrobe could happen and take place from times time and I wanted silver to be something building silver out into something that will be more I mean on the nose of sort of chave shirts in so much as it's an offering of a certain type of wear through an identity a utilitarian premium side of life um and how trialing with collaboration in the future where that product product casualty kind of grows with this thought process of how you overlay yarn with skin properties that are scientifically more beneficial for the skin which yes we've seen in how sportswear has landed in fashion we saw loads of that and then now this kind of growing category of where beauty and fashion can truly meet So it's interesting.

42:05A, the leggings in particular, it feels like stirrup leggings. There is it's real. You're meeting the moment in that all this other stuff. But I also think that that is finally happening, like the return of those in a real way since the early 90s. And it's been attempted many times, but it feels like the moment for it. So that's like a little a superficial thing. But I also think the thing you're talking about, and this kind of goes back to Jonathan and Dior. and also JW Anderson and all this like local manufacturing, I think materials have become much more important to all consumers, but especially the consumer who can afford stuff.

42:46I had Lauren Collins on to talk about Uniqlo on last week on Friday, and we talked a lot about material innovation. And that is the thing that makes you can buy a t-shirt anywhere, but if you're going to buy a heat tech because you need the heat tech, but you know then there are all these people who have eczema because of the environment and my kid has eczema everybody half the people in LA have eczema because of the environment here and people you know you can buy stuff anywhere and of course what you're making looks particularly good so there are going to be people who just buy it because they want leggings or they just love the red stitching or what have you but there are also going to be people the more stuff we have the more specific it needs to be in its use case or there's no value in it.

43:34So I love the idea of it. And, and also the, the idea of, you know, I still struggle of what to wear when I'm running and, and working out because so much of it is like a such crap, but also looks bad. And so I think there's like a lot of opportunity in that place where you're wearing stuff every day, but also maybe working out, but also just like need it to take care of yourself. Completely. And it was with drop one of silver with the properties coming from seaweed sustainably harvested from Icelandic fjords and a sort of Austrian wood cellulose and the combination that was scientifically proven again and again to be most supported for the skin.

44:20But it was this thing of having something that I could wear beneath all the other fashion such as a chanel jacket etc and or go to a loewe dinner with an underpinning and when i was at the chanel show at the beginning of october there was daphne guinness in her couture jacket with silver beneath and my mom wore silver to the met beneath her tailoring for the men's tailoring and that was the thing of like how can i take something that is a body wear piece but it to be a more elevated brand identity to wear to these coordinates that are that are more elevated in nature because yeah you can get a sort of etsy page five organic long sleeve top but the cut's not very good the composition of the materials aren't as strong and it's just not as well designed to be able to take you there to those type of places where i know i wanted to be are you thinking at all about like real underpinnings like underwear and bras and things like that totally i've definitely people have asked for things things are being trialed sampled research and development continues on the next iteration of fabric how that will be what is the product offering i need to come in i mean i've it was all so softly done and i haven't sort of hard launch.

45:43I haven't even done an event yet. Like all of that for 2026 will be what's coming up and getting to America and landing, you know, which of the retailers is the one that's going to be, you know, the big opener, all of that. Yeah. Let's, um, let's hold off on deciding that while we see what happens with Saks Global. Um, Tallulah, this was so fun. Thank you for being here. Joy. Can you come back? Can you come back maybe around the shows and we can talk more? Let's do it. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. This show was produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to our executive producers, Puck co-founder John Kelly, executive editor Ben Landy, and director of editorial operations, Gobby Grossman.

46:32An additional thanks to the team at Odyssey, J.D. Crowley, Jenna Weiss-Berman, and Bob Tabador.

From the publisher

Lauren is joined by Tallulah Harlech, fashion director, stylist, and founder of Sylva. They discuss the future of Versace and Alaïa, Jonathan Anderson’s new curiosities store on Pimlico Road, what it means to be vulgar, why Timothée Chalamet and Kylie Jenner are wearing Chrome Hearts and driving us crazy, and plenty more.

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