The Valentino Bump and French Twist Revolution

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1:04hello and welcome to fashion people i'm lauren sherman writer of puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet and today with me on the show is stylist kate young we're talking award season fashion living the devil wears prada phoebe filo the power of a hair clip and so much more happy tuesday everyone hope you're having a great week uh this week in line sheet it's all about powerful women. On Monday, I have a little Dior scoop, a Saks Global update, and some other notes. But the main event is a look at the Phoebe Philo business two years in. Kate and I are going to discuss it further here. So we will move on, but you should check it out.

1:47Sarah Shapiro also has an interview on Tuesday with Jamie Haller. If you have not heard of this brand, maybe because it's LA based, I know there are a lot of euros listening to this, but I promise, I think you will hear about it soon, even if you're not stateside. It's mostly shoes, but she has expanded into ready-to-wear in recent seasons. And I think it's a unique proposition because the shoes are extremely comfortable. Like, the shoes look like they live up to a fashion idea, but they're really, really comfortable. And there is something to that. If you don't, you're not going to get blisters by wearing these things.

2:25it's just a game changer. Sarah's interview is interesting. I hope you enjoy it. In other news, I heard from many of you who wanted to remind me that there are indeed peer-to-peer rental services in the U.S., many in the U.K., but also in the U.S. They are localized for markets, some in the South, some in New York. Great. I still think it's not a great business. It's not scalable, and it's probably easier to share this stuff via Instagram or a Facebook group or something like that. But anyway. Looking forward to chilling out this week. I have many dinners with many friends and I'm in LA. Catch you on Friday.

3:01And here is the great Kate.

3:06Kate Young, welcome back to Fashion People. Thanks for having me. Back by popular demand. Oh, good. People love you. Oh, I hope so. You're good at the banter. I'm just always scared. I I feel like I'm so unfiltered. You know, you're one of those people who you're very good at saying a lot without getting yourself into trouble. There's no one who has been on here where I'm like, I can't believe they said that. There was one person, but it wasn't like a person, a person, a creative person. It was an executive. Oh, wow. Anyone could guess. I'm not going to go there. How was your weekend? Were you, you didn't go to L.A.

3:47for the Governor's Awards, right? No. I didn't. My husband's in, he's in Copenhagen, so I couldn't leave. Oh, cool. Does he do a lot of work there? I mean, I don't know. He does A &R for a record label. So if there's an artist he's working with, he goes wherever they are. Okay. Interesting. I'm assuming it's pretty cold there now. How has this, how was Governor's Ball for you? How many people did you dress? and can you tell the audience a little bit about what it is and what it means to the sort of trajectory of the awards season? Yeah, it's funny. On my group fashion group text, I actually had this conversation this morning because people were like, what is this?

4:32Yeah. And it used to be kind of the kickoff to awards is how I always felt about it. Like something that nobody like New Yorkers don't really know about, but it's the place where all those people are going to show up in black tie dresses. And I feel like the Academy Gala kind of usurped that kickoff role. And I've been dressing people for it for years. And honestly, I don't know what it is. I don't really either. We did an event here in LA. We did our, it's called Stories of the Season. And it's sort of like a actually interesting editorialized FYC event. So for anyone who doesn't know what FYC it's for your consideration so it's like people who who want awards and we do an Oscars one and an Emmys one um or people who are in the awards race we interview them and I interviewed four costume designers uh my colleague Matt Bellany interviewed Chloe Zhao and then he did Noah Baumbach and Emily Mortimer and their casting director and then there were um there was an actors panel too with Elle Fanning and Jesse Plemons it was really great but anyway the point being that I said something to my colleague that like do we need to do this on a Friday night at 6 p.m like can't we do this another time and he said well it's really connected the governor's ball and they just do these all weekend and we lead up to it but I don't I don't really understand either maybe I should have had Matt Bellany on to this he went to it he was taking photos of Tom Cruise from it so I don't know what it is either but it sounds like a nice event and And I thought that the red carpet, from what I've seen so far, that everyone looked really pretty.

6:14Yeah. I mean, it's it's one of those I not I don't know what it is, but I know how you do an awards campaign because, you know, that's my job. And it is this last weekend is like all Q &As, all for your consideration events, all Emmy, Golden Globes, Oscar. Like they're all events to promote, you know, your movie or your my client for the award nomination. And I think that's what people need to see pictures of the people in order to vote for them. yeah and you did rose burn last night did you do anyone else yeah dakota johnson oh dakota johnson yes of course so what were for those two like the your sort of um i love the dakota johnson that valentino dress it it is was it a campaign dress no it's from the show it was really great what it was your sort of like idea for both of them for this event in particular it's funny this event is a little bit funny because you can use runway because it's still sort of new and available but we are in a phase where like dresses are starting to be held you know like everybody's movie premieres and all the awards stuff is starting like gotham awards is in a week like it really starts happening.

7:40So you, like with Dakota, I held that dress right away. Like when I was in the car leaving the show. Because I just felt like, oh, that's a great dress. It'll look good on her. She can wear runway samples. I don't need to wait for a dupe to be me. Like it's a cool dress. It's a really beautiful color. I think it sort of photographs a little bit flat compared to what it does in real life. But my idea was just like, oh, she'll look hot in that dress. the dress is good I was at that show also and and it the dress is really good I think I thought it looked even though it is a color that's like can get lost in a in a flash or whatever I thought she looked great and it's really good with her hair color yeah and I think I felt like the thing about that dress is that it could go kind of like campy old movie star which is not really my shtick so i think like the one thing that i did there was like to think i don't want like a giant movie star diamond necklace and earrings like i don't want to do that here because it could be like grace kelly drag she looked cool she really did yeah and i also think there was a dress that kirsten dunst wore a valentino i think it's resort it was polka dots some flowers.

9:00I love that. Like I want to get that dress for, I have a couple of weddings next year and I was like, I think I'm going to try to get it. The sample sales tomorrow. Do you want me to see if they have it for you? Sure. Sure. I'd have to lose about, if they, if it's a sample size, I'd have to lose about 25 more pounds. But yeah, if you see it there, let me know. I don't know. I think it's like Justin's stores now. So I'm going to, I have some time, but the point being I mean, obviously Dakota is now, I don't know what the title is, but an ambassador for Valentino. But have you had fun using that stuff on red carpet?

9:39Yeah, this was the second one. She wore it to Vogue World. It's fun working with these clothes again because I feel like so much of Dakota's personal style was wrapped up in that Gucci Alessandro stuff. It's like very sexy and classic, but also this like crazy, quirky old lady stuff and couture details. So there is a lot of her look was wrapped up in that. And it's nice to have that back. Yeah. Like that wink back. It's fun. I mean, the Valentino stuff, I have always been a fan. I think it's been tricky for me to use it a lot of the time. But like the quality of those clothes when I get them in the office is dazzling.

10:21It's dazzling. and like his color sensibility his eye is weird and it's refreshing yeah like I dress really minimally but like I love fashion and it is like a capital F fashion yeah I was talking to Laura Vinroot Poole I did an event at Capital out here in LA last week or Brentwood last week and she was saying that she was going in December for market or whatever and she said it's just mind blowing. Like it's just the, and, and she's had a lot of success with it because it's, you know, she's dressing people for galas. What do you think about the return of the Rockstead? Wait, what? Did you, okay.

11:04So did you see, I'm sorry. I'm, this is a gotcha. I didn't tell Kate that we were going to talk about this, but I just remembered. So basically I'm going to have Sarah Shapiro by the time this publishes, there may be an item in line sheet about the Rockstead's return, But the Devil Wears Prada trailer, the whole thing is Miranda Priestly. Like, it's just a pair of red pumps walking. And she's wearing rock studs. And the internet, like, freaked. Is that the Valentino shoe? Yes. Oh, that horrible fake pump. Yes. Yes. So she freaked out. She completely, the internet freaked out. and um so then i started looking into it and i got a couple response i linked to it in my very mild i was just like interesting that they use this because like why are they using the rock stud in 2025 but then i got a message from someone saying i see them on the upper east side all the time i think it's time it's gonna come back i think it's time okay i think that you're that the next time Dakota wears an outfit, Alessandro is going to have a special pair of rock studs for her that he made look like funny and cool.

12:22Yeah, I mean, that's possible. I think, listen, like the commercialized version of that, it's a little like the YSL tribute shoe. Like it's just so icky and commercial. And the people who wear them are not cool. No. And like that doesn't mean it's not cool ever or wasn't in the beginning. but I'm just I'm open to it I'm sort of Devil Wears Prada is not a good conversation for me I did that job that movie I had to own it Oh you were on that movie? No I was I did that job You were you did have that job Were you assistants with the woman who wrote the book? No she replaced me I was only the second assistant I was never the first And Leslie's the one who's like depicted in it Yeah.

13:12So the way it worked, actually, is that I left. Leslie replaced me. And then the girl, Melissa Skoog, was in charge. Oh, I know her. Yeah. She still runs a PR firm in Chicago, Skoog Communications. And Leslie got promoted to first assistant. And then the girl who wrote the book worked for Leslie. Okay. But like I loved that job. I loved every minute of that job. I woke up every morning like, yeah, I'm going to work today. And so when I watched the movie, I actually walked out and called my therapist and was like, am I a masochist? What is wrong with me? Because a lot of what happens in the movie is factually true, like the events of being her assistant.

13:56But I didn't. I thought it was great. So, like, I have a complicated relationship with it all. Like I don't watch it and just like enjoy the fun of it the way most people in fashion did. I understand. I was when that movie came out, I had just moved to New York. I went to see it in Union Square and sat on the floor because there wasn't enough room. I was very much I didn't like watching stuff like that because I was like, I want to work in magazines and I don't want to like fantasize about this fake world that I know isn't true. So I never connect. Also, the clothes in it are very cool. They're not good.

14:36You're right. They're not good. And they were never good. I think this time they're going to be more connected to the actual fashion world. Back then, they had nothing to do with what was happening in fashion. So it felt like... That still happens. Like, Emily and Porras, like, everybody talks about the fashion. The fashion is not good. Well, the fashion is so bad. It's something to look at. It's funny. I mean, same with All's Fair. Like all these fashion shows, like the clothes are not chic. I've been having a lot of conversations with people here in LA about fashion shows. Like a lot of people want to do shows about fashion.

15:12And every single person I'm like, you cannot do a runway show. You cannot do a collection, like maybe three seasons in or whatever, do that. But do not do one because everyone's going to have an opinion. It's going to look stupid. and I I think like the reason like a Zoolander worked or whatever was because it wasn't real but it got the essence of like what makes the industry so fun and also ridiculous and most people just like don't don't get it but I think it's just also being so far away from it here and not like everybody's priorities here are different and and all of that stuff like if you look at the studio and like how good the clothes and the aesthetic is in there it's just it's like that's definitely not reflective of of hollywood that's for sure right right

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17:10I'm curious, you mentioned that now people are starting to hold dresses. how has this season been starting with the academy gala and going into the oscars because you did have all these new runways and these new designers to sort of pull from and i loved i think that you dressed rose burn in saline and polka dot saline for the academy gala is that right i love that i thought she looked amazing and also she's really in the conversation i haven't seen that movie yet But it sounds like it's everyone I know who's seen it has said it's awesome. It's incredible. If I had legs, I would kick you, right?

17:50But everyone said she's so awesome. And so it's going to be really fun. Well, she's so awesome. And I also think, like, people just love her. Yeah. Like, if you look at all her movies, how many times she's made you laugh and, like, how many cool projects she's done over the years, there's a lot of goodwill towards her. Yeah. They're totally. It gets crazy. I've never had a client who all my other clients want to talk to me about. That's so fun. Oh, my God. I love her. She's so fabulous. I heard her movies great. Everybody loves her shows on Apple. There's a lot of goodwill towards her. I adore her.

18:26She's great. She seems awesome. I've gone in and out of platonic just because I like them so much. I'm not hugely interested in the story. Did you watch physical? I watched some of it, but I was like a little bit like, can I handle this? I watched it after she became my client and I was like, oh, my God, this is amazing. Maybe I'll watch it. I need something. It's just amazing that it got made. Yeah. I mean, it's really a female horror story. Great. Maybe I'll start watching it. The only thing I'm watching right now is I Love L.A. I don't even know what that is don't watch it it's basically it's like entourage or how to make it in America but for women in Los Angeles it's but everyone's comparing it to girls but I would say it's more on along the lines of those things the first episode I was like I can't watch this because I'm 15 years older than these people but I live in the same like all the things they do on the show I do and I was like I'm too old and what's wrong with me and like why am I and and I mean I don't do the things that they do in their home I but I just mean like go to the same coffee coffee shops and yeah but um and it's like about a girl who works at a name like DBA the influencer agency oh god it's I need to ask Raina who's the owner of DBA if she's watched it and is stressed out about it yeah because it's really funny but um it's the only show I've been I've been able to watch so maybe I'll watch that but but what do you like how has it been given there were so many debuts and there is so much I thought the Dior at the governor's ball was like this was the best showing for Dior on the men and women's side so far of like the dresses consistently looked good whereas previously it was like very up and down but I'm curious like what given all the debuts And is there more inventory than usual?

20:29Are the brands like more excited to do new things? Like what has the experience been this season? I think everybody's more being more careful and strategic than usual. Interesting. You know, like it's new teams. It's new teams doing sometimes PR, new teams making the dresses. Like there's new ateliers in a lot of the places. Like I think people are just trying to be more strategic because everything feels like it counts so much. and it's new, like, you know, how many of any of these designer's dresses have we seen? Yeah. Not very many, right? So, like, they don't want to do, like, the wishy-washy ones.

21:10And one of the things my friend said this morning was, like, there's a lot of brands missing at Governors. And I was like, Governors doesn't really count. Like, a lot of brands didn't, I would assume, did not participate, quote unquote. Got it. Because it costs a fortune to make a dress. Yeah. And like, is that going to be on TV? Does it have the same legs as like a Golden Globes? No. Yeah. Right? Yeah. I know we were about to talk about the Rose Byrne polka dot Celine, which I just love. Oh, yeah. How have you, and I feel like we talked right after the Celine show maybe or around that. And you, as I, we both enjoyed it.

21:51But what have you thought about their sort of strategy on red carpet? Because that was such a fun dress that like I would have not. It felt like it sort of Mary Poppins popped out of nowhere or something. Yeah, I'm curious. Listen, that was another one. I was in Paris and I saw it and was like that would look great on Rose. Rose has a body that she can wear a lot of things that nobody can wear. It's hard to wear something like that. You need to have the height. And even though she was totally covered, like you really do have to have like a bumpless body to wear a big muumuu and look seek in it in a photo.

22:29And like it felt important to me. It felt like the Academy Gala was going to be the time where everybody wore runway dresses like right after the shows and the first time out. And I felt like I wanted Rose to be part of that conversation, like new runway. Yeah. And Celine was one of my favorite shows. I loved it. I think like probably I loved so many of the shows, but like Celine made me want to dress a certain way and made me want to go buy a new pair of shoes and made me want to maybe retailer a jacket. You know, like there were things in there that really like triggered the fashion thing where you're like, oh, I want to change my outfit.

23:07I want to look like those girls. And I wanted to like reflect that at the Academy Gala. Does that make sense? Totally. I felt that very much from that show and then also Versace. Like it was really about dressing. Like it wasn't about. You wanted to look like that at Versace? No, but I wanted to think about clothes again and like putting outfits together. I think you weren't in Milan, right? I wasn't. And my reaction to Versace was like, ew. And then it grew on me. Yeah, I think if you were there, it was different. And it's one of those cases where I really and it looked like you never know because there are shows I don't get to go to.

23:50And then I have a reaction and I'm like, is it because I wasn't there? Is it because I actually didn't like it? Whereas this and I don't know if I would have liked that show if I had not been there. But when I was there, I was like the first couple looks, I was like, what's going on? that I was like oh my god this is so fun and I think the thing that I think kind of connects the two of them is they are thinking about how like women put clothes together when they were young and that that I I felt not when they were young like how they dress now how do cool girls dress now like well are there any cool girls Kate is a question of course when you walk down the street you go to a museum go to a cafe there's like some chick sitting in the corner writing in her journal or typing on her phone who looks rad who's got like two dollar white shoes on she found in a thrift store with like her mom's cool designer jacket and like i think that's like so much of good style comes out of those girls not out of the actual customer the customer isn't generating style yes so do you have any i think you're right i mean i do think that there's two things going on here right now.

25:04We're living in this culture of thrifting where there is just an opportunity to really have the, you know, when we were growing up, it was like Salvation Army and then fancy thrift, fancy secondhand stores. Yeah, Michael's or whatever. Yeah. And now it's like everybody's thrifting constantly. And so if you are into fashion, you can kind of like really cultivate a personal style. Then there's also this sort of dictation that's happening where people are just buying stuff off of. I bought two hats off of the Internet the other day because I lost my two costs cashmere beanies when we were in New York.

25:47Both of them that I've had forever. It's so annoying. It's so annoying. I got like a weird cashmere brand, but I just got them. And it was definitely like some crappy Internet-y thing. I have them like outside right now airing out because they smell like chemicals. But the point being that there's also this thing where people are just sort of dressing whatever they like are being fed on Instagram. So there's like a ton of personal style and then none. So I know what you mean. I felt like a real, in both of those shows, like a real nostalgia of, and a feeling of like, let's get back to putting things together.

26:29But I agree. I thought Celine was like sneaky, one of the best or, you know, top, top, definitely top five shows of the season. I wanted to briefly talk. So before we go to the next topic of your hair, what are your predictions for Oscars? Do you think people are going to? Because I would say the thing that has been, it's all been very, quote unquote, pretty. like even at LACMA which was all Gucci it was all like glamour pretty kind of real Paul even polished you could say for like a Demna style I mean he's he's still kind of coming in so there was stuff that was really dumb I thought Elle Fanning looked amazing at at LACMA but um but what do you think like this Oscars is gonna be given all the data you have at this point I mean I think there's this funny thing that's going on which bothers me a little bit where designers are making dresses for talent that are totally unrelated to the shows and the brand identity.

27:42and that makes it hard to predict sometimes like i i was for instance like i saw ariana grande and then read that it was dior and was like what on earth and then it turned out to be vintage yeah but i it it could have been is the way i feel about it like people will make the same dress like Demi Moore has worn the same dress like five times from five different designers yeah you know and they're making dresses that are so unrelated to the brand DNA or the show DNA that like it's hard it's more about personal style and maybe that's good maybe that's like you know I'm a celebrity and I have this body and this is how I'm confident and random people can make me dresses and they'll all be the same sort of like the jennifer aniston vibe um but it makes it harder to predict um and i do think i like i think we're all a little over the aggressive nudity and like vulgarity um although i just read the met theme i heard it last week about the body right it's like bodies i'm like oh great i also heard it last week i don't know why like did they have a preview last week or something because everybody was like I know what it is it's bodies I was like cool I'm not gonna I did I don't need to scoop this yeah um it's funny I'm like probably pretty there does seem to be not so much with my clients but there does seem to be this real like old world like old Hollywood glamour like to me the Dior dresses are all really heavy Like it's a lot of heavy draping and heavy looking fabrics and like molded kind of like they look like dresses that stand up on their own.

29:34Yeah. Maybe that's what Jonathan's signature is going to be. But to me, those look like 1940s movie star gowns. Yeah, that's interesting. I think he's still figuring it out. He's not a he's not a red carpet designer and and suddenly is because it's so important for them. And I like it's required. I mean, they're all contracted, those girls. They have to make those dresses for them. Yeah. And I thought this time, like the Mia Goth dress was really beautiful. And I thought Natalie Portman looked cool, too. It looked more controlled, is how I would say, compared to, you know, looking all the way back to Venice, where it was kind of like, OK, we're still learning.

30:17um okay so moving on to to another kind of red carpet hollywood event extra extravaganza there was this moma benefit last week that honored sofia coppola and chanel i believe underwrote the event or maybe does every year they always do um a lot of people wore chanel sofia coppola and al fanning wore chanel they looked amazing um you were there and A, I would love to hear how the event was because it looked super fabulous. But B, you had your hair pulled back in a chignon. Is that how you say it? No, it was a French twist. A French twist. Chignon is a little bun. Little bun. Okay. A French twist is like a stewardess from when we were growing up.

31:08I thought a chignon could be. Is that how you say it? Probably not. I thought that could be like a French twist also, but maybe not. Anyway, I feel like there's something going on with people wearing their hair pulled back with clips. Like obviously at the row, that was a big part of the styling. But what inspired you and why do you think it became almost viral, this photo of you? I think that like for me, A, my hair is in a weird length. I chop it into a bob like every two years and then spend two years growing it back out. So my hair is a weird length. And I think I also have a little more time on my hands.

31:58Both my kids are in high school. So like I haven't thought about how I looked in years because I think about how other people look. And then I have life stuff to deal with. And I have like, you know, an extra couple hours a week and I'm like, oh, I'm going to a party. What could I do to look chic? Which like I haven't had the luxury of thinking that in a really long time. I think the row hair really inspired me. I was like, that's really chic and cool. And it's I think it added some twist that, you know, to minimal clothes that made it look so glamorous. and then honestly that french twist with a bow on the side i have been doing that for like 30 years but i usually do it myself and it's really sloppy like i've had that bow carl lagerfeld gave me that bow like when we were shooting a domperion campaign 20 years ago oh my god and i've i've worn it probably 150 times so i think that it's part of like stuff i like my hair is like important to me obviously has had this crazy bleached hair and it's very much part of my look and I I like the idea of like hair that's subversive as part of my personal style and I think I started it I was wearing like a very simple pro ends address to CFDA and I had in my mind that I wanted like a more punk version of what the row looked like in the hair and Orlando did the hair and then I was getting you know the following week was the Chanel thing and I was like I should do another I'll stick a bow in it I thought it looked great I thought it looked great it inspired me I might I might do a French twist for something yeah you should it's kind of hard with my the thickness of my hair no that's good it'll be big because you have to kind of tease it up to get it in there.

33:57Usually, yeah. Maybe I'll do it for something. Maybe I'll do it for, I'm coming to New York for the Chanel show. So I'll see you. Oh, great. I'm very excited. We'll do it for the Chanel show. Or, well, maybe I'll do it, I'm going to a party that week and maybe I'll do it for that. Yeah, it'll be fun. I can't wait. I'm really into like a earring clip and I always think that looks good with an updo. Like, I'm just kind of into this kind of old New York society hair. It's like appealing to me. I understand. I think it works for you, too. Thanks. It's your era. Your Sidney Garber hair pullback era.