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Fashion People Podcast Episode Summary: TikTok Shoppies
Episode Overview Host: Lauren Sherman Guest: Becky Malinsky, Fashion Editor and Stylist Episode Release: [Link to episode](https://www.audacyinc.com/privacy-policy) Date: Not specified in transcript
In this episode, Lauren Sherman and Becky Malinsky discuss significant developments in the fashion industry, highlight ongoing sales, assess the potential implications of a TikTok ban in the U.S. on fashion brands, and explore Becky’s collaboration with Alex Mill. The episode also includes Lauren's personal experiences shopping in Echo Park.
Key Themes and Discussions
- Designer Moves and Industry Dynamics
- Louise Trotter's Potential Move:
- Discussion on rumors regarding Louise Trotter, designer of Carven, potentially joining Bottega Veneta.
- The significance of this move for both brands and the overarching fashion landscape.
- Designer Musical Chairs:
- Commentary on the ongoing trend of designers switching brands.
- The implications of these moves for brand identity and consumer perception.
- Shopping Insights
- Sales Recommendations:
- Lauren and Becky offer insights on the best sales of the season, emphasizing the importance of focusing on items one genuinely likes rather than impulsively buying items on sale.
- Specific brands and sales discussed include:
- Bali's website and their Black Friday deals.
- Lisa Yang sweaters noted for their quality and current sales.
- Form and their substantial discounts on well-constructed garments.
- TikTok and Its Impact on Fashion
- TikTok Shops Analysis:
- Discussion of TikTok's potential ban in the U.S. and its implications for brands that rely on the platform for marketing and sales.
- The merging of TikTok's shopping and social media features, likening it to a combination of Amazon and QVC.
- Consumer Behavior on TikTok:
- Becky shares personal experiences with TikTok shopping culture and highlights its role in promoting dupe culture and fast fashion.
- Collaboration Insights
- Becky’s Collaboration with Alex Mill:
- Details on the creation of the "Holiday Things" collection, the collaborative process, and the feedback received so far.
- The importance of fabric selection and design choices in creating a successful clothing line.
- Industry Reflections
- Diversity in Fashion Leadership:
- Reflections on the lack of female representation in leadership roles within major fashion houses.
- The ongoing conversation about the need for diversity in the fashion industry, particularly in hiring practices and leadership appointments.
- Personal Experiences and Anecdotes
- Shopping in Echo Park:
- Lauren shares anecdotes from a recent event in Echo Park, illustrating how personal experiences intersect with broader fashion trends.
Key Takeaways
- The fashion industry is experiencing significant changes with designer movements that can affect brand identity and consumer engagement.
- The rise of TikTok as a shopping platform raises questions about its sustainability and the future of fashion marketing.
- Successful collaborations require thoughtful consideration of design, consumer needs, and market trends.
- There is an ongoing push for diversity in fashion leadership roles, with industry insiders advocating for more inclusive hiring practices.
Conclusion This episode of Fashion People provides a rich analysis of the current state of the fashion industry, the implications of social media on shopping behaviors, and the importance of fostering diverse talent in leadership roles. Becky Malinsky's insights into her collaborative work with Alex Mill further illustrate the dynamic relationship between personal style and broader industry trends.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:03Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's Fashion and Beauty Memo line sheet. And today with me on the show is writer and stylist Becky Malinsky. She's here to chat about her new collaboration with Alex Mill, what you should actually be buying at all these sales, the latest round of designer musical chairs, and so much more. Hope everyone had a fab weekend. I was very busy momming, but saw a couple of you at the Peter Shire Open Studio Day in Echo Park, which was so great. I'm a big Memphis group person, so it's kind of amazing to live so close to someone whose work has been so influential on you.
0:42Also big thanks to Courage Bagels. They had a pop-up there. They somehow managed to find one last bagel to give my kid. And as a payback, I may stand in line next weekend at their shop, which the line is very long. And if you are interested in food trends and you've been to LA, you probably know that, but they sell these very light, airy Montreal stylish bagels with amazing toppings. And I haven't had one since the pandemic. So, you know, I might, I might, I may make the trip. It is the holiday season and I have a little bit of extra time and I'm here. Uh, this weekend line sheet, Sarah Shapiro is joining us.
1:20She'll start contributing as of Wednesday. So if you have any tips or thoughts for her, email her on shapiro at puck talk news. She's going to be covering a lot of new brands, mall brands, commerce, shopping, et cetera. And in Monday's line sheet, speaking of commerce, I dig into the state of the American mall. And I also follow up on that Louise Trotter news that she may be heading to Bottega Veneta. I scooped that last week. Plus a few other fun nuggets that you should be sure to check out. Again, we're so excited to have Sarah. Email her if you want to bug her. Email me on lauren at puck.news if you want to bug me.
1:56And until then, let's get going with Becky. I know many of you have bought her Alex Mill collab and she talks about how it all came together and we had a fun conversation. Becky Malinsky, welcome back to Fashion People. Thank you so much. What did you do this weekend? Were you skiing? Yes, I took my four-year-old skiing and it was so awesome. My back hurts a lot today, but it's worth it. Did you grow up skiing? I grew up skiing. I love skiing. I love being outside in winter. So I'm trying very hard to make sure he does as well. And he was into it? He was super into it. I took him once last winter and he cried the whole time.
2:44Yeah. He was very confused. I think he was three then. It was just, it was too young. But this time he was super into it, wanted to do it himself. It's great. got him cool snow pants and like, you know, the gear is half the fun. So I only skied a couple times growing up, but really loved it and felt like it was something I just remember feeling like, oh, I could do this. Like it was not. I turned it on really quickly. My big theory is with skiing, it's easy. I mean, if you're not very young and trying to figure out your balance and coordination, it's very easy to stand right away. You can kind of do it.
3:21It takes a lifetime time to master, which is what's so fun about it. Whereas I think snowboarding is the opposite. It's really hard to stand up right away. When I was a teenager, I did a little bit of snowboarding. It was so hard to make it click. But once it clicks, I think it's actually much easier than skiing. Interesting. But as you get older, snowboarding is harder because you have to sit down a lot. You fall a lot. Yeah. Yeah. If you can't get up. It's a bit trickier. Yeah. Trying to convince my husband to get back on skis. I'm like, you're 6 '2". You're too old to be getting up and down like that.
3:51Yeah. Yeah. So you did a great newsletter last season about ski gear, I feel like. People should check the out in the five things archives. Yeah. I think I have to go reread it. I think once I send it into the world, I kind of let it go. Well, there's that brand. Is it Bogner? Yeah, but I think they pronounce it Bogner. I pronounce it Bogner. I feel like you are a big proponent of this brand and have brought it to a lot of people who wouldn't know about it. Well, I love really technical ski gear. I'm very into classic brands, technical brands. Vintage Bogner is awesome. Like there was a time in the 80s and 90s where like one pieces were very popular and Bogner like owned that market.
4:42I think now they're trying to compete more with Montclair. I think Montclair kind of owns that like luxury technical market now. And Bogner is waking up to that a bit. I mean, obviously this is hearsay, but that's in my mind how they're operating, but amazing technical pieces, a lot of history. I love that brand. so really quickly on this and then we'll we'll move on to the the topics of the day but last week i had anna angelic on who's like a marketing fashion marketing person we were talking about american consumption of luxury goods versus european or other parts of the world and she made this comment that she was skiing in veil like 10 years ago and that americans tend to be more focused on technical.
5:31They are not wearing head to toe Chanel ski suits, whatever. And, and it, to her, it spoke a lot about like the American luxury consumer and how they kind of approach that, that kind of stuff versus a European or an Asian or any other region of the world where like being interested in fashion and labels and things is more appropriate. Do you you think that that's true as a longtime skier? And have you noticed that specifically? And B, do you think that's changed in the last few years? Because I feel like there is just so much great ski gear and that's technical, but also high fashion or what have you.
6:16That's a very interesting take. I mean, yeah, I think Americans in general are much more focused on the competition and the sport aspect, whereas skiing is so a part of the lifestyle in Europe where sort of everyone skis and there's a real sort of elegant way of doing it and having lunch on the mountain and having it be a family sport. And it's just a different thing in America. Everything in America kind of trends towards the competitive nature of it as someone who grew up skiing. And also luxury brands were not really a part of skiing when I was growing up and going out west and skiing that wasn't something I ever really noticed so much so in my head luxury brands creating ski clothes doesn't feel like it's made for real skiers it sort of feels like it's made for ski adjacent lifestyle in the same way that's happening in tennis it doesn't feel like it's really for the sport and as someone who loves the sport I almost feel like if I were listen I love Chanel.
7:18I feel like I could not wear a Chanel ski suit skiing because if you are not the best skier on the mountain, I don't necessarily think that would look so cool to be in Chanel ski suit. Interesting. So it does come back to this idea of like in the 90s, people, even really wealthy people, like buying designer stuff was not the go-to. It wasn't. And so I do. It was an interesting point you made because you think of like I you go to I love talking about this, but you go to Nobu Malibu and you just see like head to toe to every single designer that's ever existed. It's so fun to go there and just look at the way people dress.
8:00But that's like really new money. And a lot of that money is also not American money. And also consumers change and all that. But yeah, there is like a thing about I think that's why Arc'teryx has done so well, because it is designy, but also obviously like super technical. I just went yesterday, I went to this store in Echo Park called LSD, long, slow distance, not Lauren Santo Domingo. And it's like, have you been to that running store distance in Paris in the 11th? No, but I would love to. It's awesome. I'll make a note. Yeah, we can go then in February or March. But it reminds me of that. And apparently LSD, One of the guys who owns it is French and is friends with the distance running crew.
8:48But it's very much like a running store for run like cool kids who belong to run clubs. They have bandit. They have. They don't have satisfy because it sounds like satisfy won't sell to them. And also satisfy is guys. It's a little too expensive. If the satisfy running people are listening, you guys need to just take it down one notch. but they have a lot of on stuff and they also have tons of district vision and then Nord that brand Norda sneakers, lots on sneakers, lots of Nike, whatever. But anyway, they also have like white mountaineering and a couple other Japanese, a couple of Swedish brands.
9:28And the thing is all this stuff is like super technical. So it's that mix of design and technical, whereas you couldn't just have like a random designer stuff in here. You'd have to have like the low. Yeah, it's cool. I'm I'm very into this. It's sort of, I think, the evolution of Gorpcore. Yes, that sounds about right. So, Becky, this last week was a big week for you. It was a big week. I'm tired. You launched your collection with Alex Mill called Holiday Things, correct? Yes, Holiday Things. tell me about it. Congratulations. First of all, I love it. I got the suit. It's gorgeous. One of the best blazers I've ever owned.
10:16But tell me, how did you do it? How did this come about? And also, how did you like pick stuff and figure out how to what you wanted? What was in? Give me a very quick summary of how you how this you made this happen. Sure. It was about a year process start to finish. You know, we started in January and that was even a tight turnaround for a holiday collection. The rest of their holiday had sort of been produced and decided upon, which was actually helpful. And that was the starting point of the collection. But I'll back up. It came about because I did a newsletter partnership with them last December and it performed.
10:59It was the first time they did that with their brand and it performed really well. And I was really happy with how it turned out. They were really happy with how it turned out. They were really happy with the new customer acquisition. And, you know, Mickey Drexler, he's very curious about new things. And he called multiple times and wanted to know more about it. And we talked a lot about what else is it that we could do together? And he said, I want to do something. It doesn't just have to be this one time a year thing? What is something we can work on together? And from there, I had a meeting with Psalmsak, who is their creative director.
11:36In January, we just got a coffee with him and Rose Anderson, the head of their marketing. Rose, I don't know your title. I'm sorry. It's fine. Titles don't mean anything. People mean something. Exactly. And we're just kind of spitballing what it could be. And we thought, well, what if we do a little collection? and later that week I was going in to see Holiday anyway because I am still a market editor at the end of the day and I do still go see collections and I went to see Holiday and I looked at sort of their lineup and what they had and it was very Alex Mill obviously it was very casual a lot a lot of sweaters some outerwear and I kind of knew immediately after seeing it I was like oh I actually know what we need to do.
12:23We need to find a way to get all of these clothes wearable for like the onslaught of events so many people have in November, December. So from there, I sort of took some time, thought about what I thought it should be, pulled references, pulled ideas. And then I had a meeting with Somsak and we kind of together brainstormed of, you know, I was like, this is what I think we need. I mean, I'm working with women all the time. We need a holiday top, something really easy to layer and pair. There was a skirt that I featured in the newsletter last year that went viral for them. Like they posted the picture from my newsletter on Instagram and they are still getting calls about this skirt and they keep saying, I'm so sorry, it's not our skirt, it's our sweater.
13:11So they were like, we want something really dressy along those lines. So we kind of started there. I thought we needed a top. They really wanted a skirt. and I sort of put all these things together into an idea of what could be these pieces that could really dress up your more everyday casual wardrobe that you already are buying from them and that you already may have. And I feel like we are kind of of the same mindset. We're scrappy. We're casual. We have a bit of classic. So the ideas felt very, there was a lot of synergy. And when I would bring an idea, someone would say, yes, let me sketch it.
13:44And it was really fluid actually. And it came together pretty quickly. It was like, I took a lot of time, obviously thinking and processing and pulling ideas, but you know, in our meetings, I think it was two one hour meetings and we kind of had the idea of what we wanted. What about fabrics? Because for me, that was, especially when I, when I got the suit, I was like, whoa, this is a great, this is a really nice material. material it's like a wool crepe it feels very silky it has a nice really soft hand feel and it's you you're a drapey person it has a little bit of slouch and drape to it but the skirt has a great it's it's almost a taffeta but a almost utilitarian taffeta and you did that jacket too did you get to sort of go through fabric swatches how do they choose fabrics that must have been so It was so fun.
14:38And I'm obviously very specific about fabric and hand feel and I felt and touched everything. And I really wanted to make sure it would have that quality. And they have a great production team who is really supportive. And so I, you know, and I'm very specific and very descriptive. So I would say like, you know, okay, we want a skirt. I want it to feel dressy and like taffeta, but it should be khaki because this is Alex Mill and it should feel utilitarian. So is there something we can do with a little bit of shine and it should have this much stiffness? and so they were able to pull fabrics based on my descriptions well and they also you know they are they're good at what they do so they did a really good job of pulling fabrics and sometimes they would pull a fabric like I wanted to do the oversized t-shirt and a lame and the fabric swatches came in and I was like you know what this is nice but it's like too thick this is gonna feel kind of like fussy can we like make it thinner and they were like yeah we could open the weave.
15:34We could ask for a thinner knit. So, you know, I think it was three rounds of feeling fabric and seeing samples and sort of going back and fixing things. So that was super important to me. And then, you know, I knew I wanted a crepe for the suit because I wanted it to feel very evening-y, something that would feel like almost like you would put on a dress, but it was in a suit and I didn't want it to have any sort of like work wear feel to it, even though you could definitely wear this to work. But because we were doing like a purpley navy, like I thought it needed that like sort of really special, elegant, like textured feel.
16:16So they were able to pull based on my descriptions, but they did a really good job pulling is the long winded answer. What what has the feedback been? What what have you heard from your customers or your readers? what have you heard from their customers did you see a big uptick in your followers on sub stack what has a week in or a half but six days in or four days in or whatever however long it's been what have you absorbed from the experience feedback has been fantastic um i think the purple crushed velvet pants which which is one of the fabrics i started with i was like i don't know why but i I really want this in line.
16:57And it's kind of the outlier, everything else. We've made multiple pieces in one fabric, but that was sort of this extra. I was like, let's just do it. I love it. I think that's the first piece to sell out. It's almost totally sold out. I think there's like maybe size two left. Amazing. Which is unbelievable for the piece that I was like, this is just the fun piece. Like, please make it. Yeah. The feedback has been great. There's been great sell through. We're talking now about which pieces we want to recut, which don't we want to recut which we want to maybe keep um you know special and very capsulated yes and the feedback from readers has been fantastic obviously the newsletter community i honest i honestly call substag like the nicest placed on the internet because the comments are always so nice and supportive and you know people talk to each other in them and they've just been really positive and i was actually cc'd one customer wrote into alex mill to their like you know like customer at or whatever info at Alex Mill and Alex Mill CC me.
17:59So I could see the conversation about how happy they were that they brought in a woman designer and that men understand fantasy and like concept and idea, but women really understand what it is women need to get dressed. And they were so, they were so glad to see it and that they felt like they were heard as a woman and And like that felt so good. So it was really amazing to hear that feedback. And I had talked to the team at 2 p.m. that day on the launch day. And like Mickey had me on speaker going around the office. And people were like saying, hi, Becky. And they were like, everyone is in like an amazing mood and felt like they felt really positive about the collection.
18:37So, I mean, that's the most important thing to me that I feel like that I love it and proud of it, that their team was proud of it and wanted to support it. So like their head of production who is like super stylish and I love her. She in our last product fitting, she was like, I'm ordering the Anorak. And I was like, oh, my God, she wants to order it. I feel like, OK, this has legs. This is going to work. So the feedback has just been really, really positive. It's awesome. I know someone at Puck who spent eight hundred dollars on on stuff. We both know this person. I don't want to help them, but they were very thrilled.
19:15And yeah, I think it was great. There was something for everyone. And it does feel like it will obviously open up your audience, but it will expose Alex Mills audience to a group of people who would totally wear that stuff, but maybe have never heard of it. It's still a really small company in the fashion world. We know it very well because of Somsack and Alex and Mickey. But outside of it, they only have a few stores. And so this is the kind of customer acquisition, as you said before, that really works. So you're worth the investment, Becky, and congrats. Thank you.
19:55Hi, this is Jill Schlesinger, CBS News Business Analyst, Certified Financial Planner, and the host of the Jill on Money podcast. With the new year upon us, there's no better time to take control of your financial life. And the Jill on Money podcast is here to help. It's your questions that make it possible for me to provide unconventional and I hope entertaining insights on your money, more importantly, on your life. Follow and listen to Jill on Money wherever you get your podcasts.
20:28Other than your holiday collection, I thought you did a really nice post right before Black Friday that I cited in line sheet about it's okay to opt out of this in sales insanity. And it definitely I'm never super shoppy during that period because I always just want stuff that's full price. Same. I bought a pair of full price boots. But yeah, that's my problem. But it did make me think, OK, just remember, I don't need any of this stuff. And And I know that like everything's 70 % off and out of porté right now, but I don't need it. But you are constantly surveying the market. What do you think are some great like secret deals right now that if people are shopping and want to dig into this sales season, this like two month long sales season, you think they should check out.
21:31I mean, it's always important for me to say that you need to be looking at the things you liked full price anyway. So like, yeah, I always will advise against like, oh, my God, I love the sweater and tan and the green is on sale. Like, do not buy the green. Wait for the tan or just buy the tan and wear it and enjoy it. So I think there's a lot of that that you have to be careful of in the market. I agree. But what have I been looking at? Obviously, I've been looking at Bali's website. They had a Black Friday deal. And then I actually didn't pull the trigger on a blazer I had wanted. I had tried on a year ago in the store in Milan, but it was really expensive.
22:12I was like, what is happening with this particular blazer that's like three grand? Yeah. And that was on sale and I almost bought it. And then I think I kind of I do get into the Black Friday hysteria for my kid. Because like, you know, like you need new shoes like four times a year when you're four years old. So I like to buy lots of sizes and I kind of forgot. And then the next day the whole site went to 60. So I'm like, oh, great. So then I did just buy that blazer this morning because I was nervous we would talk about it and then it would get sold out. Congrats. So Bali has a pretty good sale right now.
22:45But you do have to pay attention to the models they use because not all of it is Simone's designs. You know, they had, they put up some of the old stuff that is like not the Valley we know and love. There's also some stuff in there. Yeah. Yeah. Best of luck to Ruiji. I'm a fan, but yeah, it's not, it's not for us. So I definitely bought a couple of things there this, like last week. Weirdly form, you know, FF. Oh yeah. They're having an insane sale because they have a new creative director coming. Yeah. Thanks. So I Yeah, Paul Halber's is gone. Yeah, which those clothes, which don't really read as anything online, so it's kind of hard, are so beautiful and well-constructed.
23:28Their sales right now are crazy, like$3 ,000 jackets for$700. So check those out. I just noticed that yesterday when doing some newsletter research. I also love Lisa Yang sweaters, which feel very expensive, just because it's not as well of a no-name brand, but the quality is so amazing. And those are on sale everywhere right now, like Saks and My Teresa and find great deals on those. And those are the best sweaters. So highly recommend that. How's that? Is that a good list? That's a great one. I've never bought a Lisa Yang sweater. Oh, they're so nice. They're so soft. And the cuts are nice and the colors are nice.
24:09Highly recommend. Yeah. I'm on a big and daughter kick, which is not having a sale. nor should they like those are i love and daughter too and those are like still made in heritage factories and they're so well priced as it is i bought one probably the first or second season this was when i still lived in dumbo and was blowing out my hair every day and it was short so this had to be 2012 maybe to that it was really early because i was blowing my hair out pre pre um baby from dirty dancing hair but um and i ended up i don't know if i ended up keeping it but then i bought another because it was like the fit wasn't exactly right but i could tell and i really like the story and the woman who runs it i think her dad was in the business or something like that's why it's named dan daughter uh but i thought she was interesting and had a good aesthetic and then last year I bought one of the wool sweaters and I just love the fit I love all the errands is it Aaron or Aaron knits that they just launched and ran and Don a lot of Donna stuff from Donegal so it feels very I just bought a sweater that feels very J.Crew in 1998 which yeah I'm so excited I had a similar one from J.Crew in 1998.
25:39Is it the one with the speckles? Yes I did I got the speckles one yeah. Nice. I think it'll look good with skirts too. It's gonna be great and it's that it's sort of fitted and not too boxy but not yes tight in the bad way. Exactly exactly. So Becky have you ever shopped on TikTok? Never shopped on TikTok but my sister spends a lot of time on TikTok Shop Talk. So she's buying stuff on there or is this for her job? You know, I don't know if she's actually ever bought it, anything on it, but we were actually actually we were talking about it this morning and I was waiting for the bus. I was I called her and we got into a whole talk like conversation about a shop talk.
26:22What did she have to say? we're kind of talking about how tiktok is basically just a platform for dupe culture and sheen and like sheen and tiktok may as well be like the same company so like it's not actually like a good place for brands it's a place that people can just copy your brand yeah well it's sort of replacing in some ways amazon yeah it's like amazon qvc yeah meets google it's much bigger than Shein in terms of revenue, which is crazy. It only launched in 2023, in September, 2023. TikTok shops. Sure. Whatever. It's called TikTok shops. Wow. Okay. Yeah. I mean, the whole company is only started in 2018 or something, right?
27:14Yeah. The being able to shop in the app only started a year and a half ago. Got it. But I will say it feels fake. Like it's just like who is buying all this crap. But I did buy something from there. Okay. What? I bought this. So you know that how I get this defrizzing treatment that has this defrizzing treatment is going to be the end of me. I've decided to phase out of it because the thing is, I live in L.A. My hair is very, very coarse, very, very curly. It's also very dry here. so it's not it's frizzy in a different way like it's it's easier to maintain in some ways and more difficult to maintain in other ways and this past year I also started getting my hair dyed because it just got way too gray and please do not write in being like you should let your hair go gray I don't want to I'm not ready like it's a lot of people look great with gray hair I don't want to it's not for me for now anyway I started dying it so my hair is just like a lot yuckier than it used to be.
28:18So I started getting this defrizzing treatment, but the problem with it is it makes my hair look great. I can blow out my hair with no problem or I would never blow my own hair out. I can have someone blow out my hair. Um, or, you know, when it first, it, it, the first time I got it, it just like loosen the curl and it made it just much easier to manage. But the problem is if you do it too much, it straightens your hair too much. And so I have to essentially I'm now I'm trying to phase out of it. I think I'm going to do it instead of every three months, every six months. But so it so it doesn't get stringy.
28:57But essentially, I have to blow my hair out all the time or my hair looks weird. It's and like parts of it will be straight and other parts curly. And it's just a disaster. So I bought this kind of blow dryer slash. It's not a blow dryer. It's a curling brush that also sort of it has heat in it. So it blows your hair out at the same time or straightens your hair at the same time you're brushing it. And there's an expensive version of this brush that works really well. So I someone recommends this brush to me. I see this girl on TikTok with like puffy, frizzy hair. Use it. It looks beautiful. I bought it.
29:40It was$40. It sort of works. Also, I'm not good. I've never done my hair. When I wear my hair straight, I've literally never tried to blow my own hair out. I am not going to blow my hair straight. It's partially me and partially... I don't know how to... There's no explanation of how to get the heat correct. So yeah, there's a lot of that stuff is selling on there. And I think when you look at implications of a potential TikTok ban, and we're going to get into this more at the end of this week, we have a special guest on Friday who's going to really dig into it. But when you look at it, I think the biggest threat of TikTok shops is a threat to Amazon and their dominance in marketplace because what TikTok shops has done is taken the QVC model and the Amazon marketplace model and merge them.
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30:34You get a cool girl to do sell your fake stuff and or your dupe stuff. And suddenly it's just wild and crazy the amount of product that you can sell. But I also think for for bigger brands, like a lot of luxury brands sell fragrance and And that stuff's available on there. But they're also marketing on TikTok. For the first few years, the marketing on TikTok was really tricky because it had to be super organic and not feel like it was coming from the brand. But I think that's changed a bit and that a lot of these brands do rely on TikTok for exposure. And, you know, when the TikTok ban was supposed to happen a couple of years ago, I wrote about it and said, look, like there's always another platform and people will just reallocate their funds.
31:29But this has become a big place for conversation for brands for better and worse. And and I do think the immediate thing will be that the money and the conversation will go back to Instagram, go back to meta. But I don't think that's what will happen long term. Do you spend any time on there? Don't spend a lot of time on TikTok. I think, I don't know, maybe I've aged out of the generation of spending time on TikTok. But yeah, I don't know where those dollars will eventually end up. What I'm hoping this whole conversation about is, I mean, do we actually think it's going to get banned? I don't know.
32:12I just hope that we can take this information about like who is creating this content that you're paying for? Who is reading it? I think there's always going to be it's always good to have accountability and have transparency. So it does kind of feel like it's the first time that people are questioning, like putting their marketing dollars onto these kind of platforms and like what the outcome is going to be and who's controlling that and controlling the data. So I am really curious about that and how that will influence the future of where companies are going to put their marketing dollars. Yeah.
32:50So like probably won't get banned. Right. I mean, I don't know. I don't know anything about this. I think there's a chance it will. You do. Oh, yeah. Before I didn't. But I do. But now you do. And we'll see my special guest this week is an expert on this, so she'll know better. But I don't want to reveal just in case something happens with the scheduling and it doesn't happen. But it's it's an interesting person. But it does sound like it's making us have those conversations about like, how are those marketing dollars getting spent and where and what the value is. And that will translate to the other platforms too.
33:23And I'm hoping that sort of opens those conversations of what the value is and like, where the human element is going to come into all of this because so much of it is algorithm based. And I don't even know, it just all feels very overwhelming and opaque. And I'm hoping that all of this like opens that up and makes people recognize where they're putting their dollars. Yeah. But I don't really know because I don't spend a ton of time on there. But I again, I don't think I'm the audience. I'm not shopping on Sheen. I'm not looking for dupes. So no.
33:58You know, I feel like I need to be on there more than I am for my job. But I honestly, I can't do it. My head is too tired. I was listening to the Fresh Air podcast about this. about the ban and the host was just talking about how, oh, this is all, you know, going on under our noses. And so many of us don't understand. And I'm thinking, wait, that's our responsibility, though. Like we have to understand, like, I don't like that excuse of like, there's this whole subculture because it's not a subculture. This is half of America. And I do feel like I need to know a little bit more about what's going on there.
34:33It's my that's my job. Yeah, I mean, the other thing is a lot of my stories are regurgitated on there and by quote unquote experts who disseminate the information. It's like a new form of plagiarism. So sometimes I get sent those and I'm like, what are you going to do? But yeah, I should be monitoring them and chasing policing these terrible people. Just kidding. I'm happy to have the exposure. But credit me.
35:30You know what's going to be on TikTok a lot, this news about all these designers moving from one place to another. And this morning, and we're recording this on Monday morning, Dries Van Noten announced the expected promotion of Julian Klausner to creative director. Julian is a Belgian designer. He's super young, I think 33. And he's been at the studio since 2018. So essentially right out of grad school. And he he's taking over for Dries, who's still around, still keeps an office, is still kind of consulting, but has decided to do more gardening and not spend his life slave to the fashion cycle.
36:17So what do you think about this appointment in particular? And then we can get into some of the other speculation. conversation well i read tim blanks's article this morning like before i even got out of bed so it was so nice and it was talking about something we talk about all the time that it doesn't need to be another name moving to another house and can't people be looking in their studio at young talent who know the business yeah so i don't know i think that's great and nice i mean would i still am like oh my god yes another white man promoted so there's a bit of that that I have a problem with.
36:54I'm like, how is it possible that women are still not getting promoted into these roles? But I do like that it's someone relatively unknown coming from inside the house getting a chance because, I mean, we don't need more of the same rotation going around and around. We need new talent. It's the same problem in every industry at the moment. Yeah. Well, we can talk about a woman who does seem to be getting promoted into one of these roles in a minute, but really quickly on that point, I talked about this with some designers who are based in Europe and work at these houses who are women. And look, I never want to judge any of these particular appointments because they all happen for very specific reasons.
37:38And I just think like you are totally right. Like it shouldn't be all white men. It should be all everybody getting these jobs. And a big issue is that at the bottom, people who are interns, they're hiring their friends when they're assistants and their friends tend to look like them. And it's the same problem in every industry. So this is a bigger issue for HR at these big companies where they need to create some sort of program or circumstances where a more diverse group of people get internships in the first place because that's where it all starts. The other point is, I think for a lot of women, if you want to be a mother, the way that these many of these companies operate is that you're in the office till midnight and that's just the way it is.
38:31And it's only for a couple of weeks each season that it's like that. But you are working nonstop and you have to work the way the designer works. And if the designer works for two weeks before the show and does works, you know, 12 to 12 and sleeps for two hours, you have to do that too. And for, especially in Europe where like being a mother, people, if you, when you become a mother, that's your first job and everyone around you thinks that. So they assume that you're not going to have a nanny stay. You're going to, you need to be home with your kid. And, and it's interesting because moms and dads get so much more time parental leave and all that.
39:14But when you go back to work, there is this for many companies, like this idea that, okay, well, you're a mom first now, so you aren't going to want to do that work, even if they want to. And so it's, it's really complicated. I think in the, in the circumstance, I agree. I thought what Tim wrote was really smart and it really speaks to this brand is a unique brand and I don't think you can have an outside person come in. And it's also, it's probably at its peak of sales. It was a slow burn for Dries. Everybody in fashion has always loved Dries, but now it's a really big brand that is sold at Mohawk General or Nordstrom or whatever, which wasn't the case, you know, 10 years ago, even.
40:02So. Totally. And he's still around. So that. And he's still around. And we all saw how it worked out with Peter Hawkins. Exactly. So it's interesting because the Peter Hawkins thing, he worked for Tom Ford for 20 or 30 years, and it was so enmeshed that it was probably they were probably too close. But the nice thing about this situation is that this guy has been working there for six years. and so he really understands it but i'm sure he has his own ideas like he hasn't even come close to to reaching his creative peak so it's exciting i'm excited for him and and um tim delicately brought up the fact that the last show was not well received generally uh and i think like the other thing we have to remember with all of these guys all of these people is give them some time like it's just so it's so hard to judge these things and you should get three years that's what i keep saying with sabato de sarno it's really hard when a company's bleeding money to do something like that but you they should get three years to figure it out peter cupping was a i mean not peter cupping peter hawkins was a different situation uh speaking of peter cupping I'm very excited for his Lombin debut in January.
41:25I wish I could go. So on the appointment chain, the game of musical chairs, speaking of women, I heard from a really, really good source last week that Louise Trotter got the Bottega job. I called another person very close to the situation, and they shockingly confirmed it to me. And I was like, oh, that's real. And so in my latest kind of report on the most recent info about Matthew Blasey going to Chanel, I mentioned it. And then the next day, a couple other outlets mentioned it did not credit me. It's fine. It's fine. You're not writing it down. No, not at all. I mean, I know if it makes them feel better not to credit me, that's it's really OK.
42:14So the question for you is, what do you think about that? Like you've I'm sure you've been following Louise's career. She worked at Joseph where she, that's where I met her. And I thought she did a really great job there. That's that British brand that has been around forever. And they also, you know, it's, I thought she did a really nice job there when she was there. And then she went to Lacoste and now she's at Carven. Uh, what do you think of Louise? I generally like, I've only met her a couple of times. I really like her as a person. She's just cool and, and is strong and seems very down to earth.
42:48But what do you think of her designs and the prospect of her taking over for Mattu at Bottega? I loved her at Lacoste. I wish, I mean, this is a tangent, but I just like wish Lacoste could figure out how to produce their clothes. Like, I feel like they constantly are in like investing in runway and design and that it just doesn't go anywhere. But back to Louise. I think she's so good at what she does. I think she has a very clear identity and idea. Like, I think those carving clothes and shows are really beautiful. Like, they caught on very quickly. People, like, it was sort of like it only took one season to get everybody to go to the show next season.
43:31And they're really beautiful. I think the clothes are really big. I think they're actually kind of hard to digest as a regular shopper. Like I really like them, but I almost think they're almost too big for me. And I love things really oversized. I haven't quite figured out like what my carbon piece would be. I constantly look at it and I'm like, Oh, what, what would I buy? What should I buy? I haven't quite figured it out yet, but, um, like she is designing for herself. And I love that. Like, cause if you like something, there will be other people who feel that way. I think Bottega is a very, like what it has become in the last few years is very structured, very oversized.
44:08Like it's almost seems like a perfect match for the technical abilities of Bottega with her design aesthetic. I don't know. I think it's a great idea. Okay. So I have gotten a lot of feedback about her, especially from women who are saying the same thing. I am going to be totally honest. I really don't like carbon and I don't think it works. I think that like it feels too derivative. And also I went to the first show. I went to the second show and I was like, I don't want to engage with this anymore. And I really, really like her. But also everyone I know who loves clothes was into it. You like it.
44:54Leandra likes it. Like you're not the only two people, but you are my two fashion editors. So I struggled with it quite a bit and it just felt like I wanted more ideas. I wanted more of her because she is, is like you said, and I thought out of everything she did, Joseph was great. I really liked what she did at Lacoste. I thought it just like always looks so good. Um, with this, I just wasn't, I just feel like it wasn't right. And what it could have been is the company that owns it. It's a bit of a unique situation. It may be that I was sensing because of my spidey senses, usually on the business side, some sort of disconnect between the business motivations and the brand itself.
45:44But I think generally, look, she is a person who has worked really, really hard and is not flashy is not doesn't seem to want to be the center of attention and yet has been able to command people's eyeballs at these smaller brands that really don't deserve or or don't it's not that they don't deserve but they they don't do a lot to get you to pay attention but she's able to she's been able to do it in this really quiet dignified way. And so I feel like she will have the, she has the, like all the ingredients to make it work at a, at Bottega. And I do also think having a woman there is really exciting prospect because Matt too, there's something very gentle about him.
46:33And I thought his women's clothes were like far better than the men's. Like, and so I think like all these people who went back to Bottega when Mattu returned, who all these women who wore it when Thomas Meyer was there, and then suddenly were excited by the prospect of what Mattu was doing. I feel like she can connect with those women really well and also the new generation. So I hope it works out. You made two interesting points. I mean, one is that like you think Carvin is too derivative, like you liked Joseph because that's a derivative brand. So maybe the fit worked. So like what may we'll see if that works at Bottega, where again, it's a brand that you want new ideas.
47:22But also I feel like the infrastructure is really set up at Bottega to help her with the fit. And like I'm looking at the carbon website right now as we're talking about this and like some of those shoulders like I get what she's doing, but you have to be really tall to wear all these clothes. So I think the idea of having an atelier, like a Italian atelier, which I think Italian clothes just fit better than French clothes for the majority body types. Yeah. Like I, that I think will be great for her. Oh, you know what I definitely need though? I mean, this material doesn't look great. I just Googled Carvin and Annette Portier, the scarf detailed twill blouse and red.
48:02Oh my God. It's gorgeous. I mean, the website is beautiful. There's a lot of things. But the skirt I'm like, no, the skirt is just not the, but here's the thing. Like all this stuff, it's, it's almost exactly right. And that is what I think the challenge of it has been to me is like, I should, I should want it myself. And this, this sweater I do want. Um, I mean, well, I wish it was a knit. That's the other thing it's in. What's the material? cool though. Red twill. I think the issue is it's just all cut. This is all cut for someone six feet tall. I think if they had someone in there who could say, talk about real fit, all of these clothes would be perfect.
48:47Well, yeah. And that could be a matter of choosing the right stylist. So let's see if it happens. I think it's going to happen and I hope it does. We wish her the best and it will be really cool. Becky, this was fabulous. Yeah. Thanks for having me. Thanks for being here and I'm sure we'll talk soon. All with a pleasure. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck hosted by Lauren Sherman. That's me. Our executive producers are John Kelly, co-founder of Puck, Ben Landy, executive editor of Puck, Gavi Grossman, director of editorial operations at Puck, and Bob Tabador, executive producer at Odyssey.
49:27Edited, mixed and mastered by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to the team at Odyssey, including J.D. Crowley, Jenna Weiss-Berman, Maddie Sprung-Kaiser, Josefina Francis, Hilary Schupf, and Kurt Courtney.
From the publisher
Lauren and world famous fashion editor, stylist, and Substacker Becky Malinsky consider the possibility of Carven designer Louise Trotter joining Bottega Veneta. They also highlight some of the best sales of the season, contemplate what the potential end of TikTok in the U.S. would mean for fashion brands, and go behind the scenes of Becky’s collaboration with Alex Mill. Lauren also shares a dispatch from the mean shopping streets of Echo Park.
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