In short
The episode mixes fashion and film coverage, centered on Venice Film Festival experiences and a fashion-industry deep dive into Alistair McKinn’s new magazine Prototype. It also touches on a limited-time Macy’s designer capsule and the logistics/culture of festival premieres and red carpets.
Guests and backgrounds
- Alistair McKinn: magazine publisher/editor; longtime magazine career (mentioned 25 years). Launches Prototype, a semi-storefront zine brand.
- Amanda Dobbins: host of The Ringer’s Big Picture and Jam Session; film journalist/critic covering Venice for Big Picture.
- Lauren Sherman: host of Fashion People (Puck’s Fashion and Beauty Memo Line Sheet writer).
- Also mentioned: Alistair’s strategic advisor Susan Kappa (formerly Condé Nast strategic advisor); and Fashion People guests planned for a separate live taping (Elizabeth von der Goltz, Indra Rockefeller, Roy Satrin).
Key claims
- Prototype issue zero is ad-free to preserve “purity,” structured as 12 zines bound together; the Prototype.world site is a store, not a media site.
- The Prototype chair collaboration is made-to-order, numbered, and sold via Prototype.world; the chair is the only “advertising” image in the magazine.
- Venice premieres combine industry/press and public audiences; standing ovations are widely acknowledged as performative/timed.
Notable examples
- Prototype’s first product: a platinum-intended (ultimately aluminum) reworked garden chair with Pierre is Castagnola; collaboration with Tom Sachs for a Chanel project zine.
- Venice: premiere of Primetime (Chris Hansen era; Robert Pattinson stars) and discussion of Nathan Fielder’s upcoming Elizabeth Holmes documentary.
- Venice fashion/art: Dries Van Noten’s Palazzo exhibition “The Only True Protest is Beauty,” toured by Dries Van Noten; also references Prada Foundation.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOUpcoming Events and Discussions
1:56 to 2:14
Hosts discuss upcoming events, including a live taping and private dinner.
“Virginie Viard's Chanel book, and plenty more.”
News and Fashion Intel
2:14 to 2:54
Discussion about current fashion news and updates from the Venice Film Festival.
“I'm traveling to New York today for half a week, a little bit over half a week.”
Alistair McKinn's Prototype Launch
2:54 to 4:20
Alistair discusses his new magazine Prototype and its vision.
“Thank you for the on the ground intel people and let's get going.”
Design Philosophy Behind Prototype
4:20 to 7:50
Alistair shares insights into the creative process and product design in Prototype.
“And then we're also going to like drop products and collaborations throughout the season, as well as obviously all of the work that we're doing within the studio for brands and musicians, artists, et cetera.”
Business Strategies in Fashion Publishing
7:50 to 13:14
Discussion on business strategies and the evolution of magazine publishing.
“I guess one question is like, how many of these are going to be for sale?”
Future Events and Collaborations
13:14 to 14:00
Plans for future events and collaborations in the fashion industry.
“Yeah, we're doing a public event at Dover Street Market in New York on Wednesday.”
Strategic Collaborations and Creative Projects
14:00 to 17:43
Explore the strategic decisions behind artistic collaborations and their significance.
“Susan is a very famous, yes, strategic person that advertisers love.”
Reflections on Venice Film Festival
18:26 to 20:35
Recount experiences and insights from attending the Venice Film Festival.
“Amanda Dobbins, welcome back to Fashion People.”
Discussing Elizabeth Holmes Documentary
20:36 to 22:46
Engage in a conversation about the anticipated Elizabeth Holmes documentary.
“in our experience at the premiere of primetime.”
Premiere of Primetime and Cultural Discomfort
22:47 to 24:47
Explore the premiere of 'Primetime' and themes of discomfort in cinema.
“I do think that Nathan Fielder is kind of the leader of a new school of, I mean, you know, he works primarily in documentary or docudrama sort of and is often a character in his own work in one way or another.”
Show all 28 chapters
Navigating the Venice Film Festival
24:48 to 28:06
Discuss the challenges and experiences of attending the Venice Film Festival.
“which is about Chris Hansen and To Catch a Predator and that like period of time.”
The Venice Film Festival Experience
28:06 to 36:14
Explore the dynamics of the Venice Film Festival, its audience, and the impact of premieres.
The Nature of Hollywood Glamour
36:14 to 37:48
Discuss the perception of Hollywood glamour and the performance aspect of red carpets.
“And, you know, like we walked, we watched the red carpet.”
The Evolution of Red Carpet Fashion
37:48 to 41:24
Analyze how red carpet styles have changed over time and key moments at festivals.
“We watched this, this glamorous premiere.”
Fashion Highlights from the Festival
41:24 to 42:03
Review standout fashion moments and celebrity appearances at the Venice Film Festival.
Fashion Highlights from Venice
42:03 to 45:02
Discussion about standout fashion moments and celebrity looks at the Venice Film Festival.
“Also, you know, she arrived in the first water taxi photos were her and, you know, all silk, which you and I have experienced the humidity in, in Venice these past days.”
Experiences at the Venice Film Festival
45:02 to 48:01
Sharing personal experiences, including the ambiance and logistics of the festival.
“And then that rolling into a Oasis was the big night at Venice.”
Exploring the Dries Van Noten Exhibition
48:01 to 53:10
Insight into the Dries Van Noten exhibition at the Venice Biennale and its artistic significance.
“there is an exhibition that that launched with the Venice Biennale called the only I believe it's called The Only Protest is Beauty.”
Reflections on Art and Fashion
53:10 to 56:00
Discussion on the interplay between art and fashion, inspired by the exhibition.
“but if you don't put the work in and now this does kind of ladder back to that conversation I had with Eugene about what is the work, like what is the process.”
Reflections on the Fashion Event
56:00 to 56:56
The hosts discuss their experiences at a recent fashion event and the challenges faced.
“Yeah, because it was it was funny, because when they organized it, they were like, anytime, but Sunday afternoon is fine.”
LVMH Prize Ceremony Highlights
56:56 to 59:09
Discussion on the LVMH Prize ceremony, celebrity appearances, and cultural reactions.
“we've been talking a lot about putting on a show.”
Phoebe Philo and Industry Reactions
59:09 to 1:01:09
Analysis of fashion reactions and insights surrounding Phoebe Philo and industry dynamics.
“And it was, it was like excellent corporate marketing.”
Consolidation in Fashion Industry
1:01:09 to 1:04:18
Discussion on the consolidation in the fashion industry and its impact on designers.
“Did you see the way this one reacted to this?”
Virginie Viard's Upcoming Memoir
1:04:18 to 1:09:08
Exploration of Virginie Viard's memoir and what it reveals about her time at Chanel.
“especially like phoebe did a an interview with this video this very famous he's this film this video journalist Loic Prigent.”
The Legacy of Chanel and LVMH
1:09:08 to 1:10:03
Discussion on the legacy of Chanel, LVMH's influence, and consumer perspectives.
“without any public statement raised many questions.”
Chanel's Leadership and Creative Balance
1:10:03 to 1:12:08
Explore how Chanel's leadership, particularly under Virginie Chanel, sets the brand apart in the fashion industry.
“she's still a beauty executive but she was a fashion industry executive she's mad at Bernard on our nose.”
Chanel's Cultural Relevance and Business Insights
1:12:09 to 1:14:20
Discuss the cultural significance of Chanel in society and the insights into its business practices.
“And I do feel like I have a visceral reaction to the clothes and the colors.”
Personal Reflections on Chanel Experiences
1:14:21 to 1:16:23
Delve into personal anecdotes and reflections on experiences with Chanel and its products.
“itself, especially after this last phase because it's from it's been owned by the same family for decade, I think like 100 years like it's the business story of fashion is really yes, it's the Arno.”
Transcript
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1:43Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sherman, writer of Puck's Fashion and Beauty Memo Line Sheet. And today with me on the show is The Ringers' Amanda Dobbins, host of the Big Picture and Jam Session. We're talking about the Venice Film Festival, our trip to Dries Van Noten's Palazzo, Virginie Viard's Chanel book, and plenty more. Plus, up top, Alistair McKinn joins me to discuss the launch of Prototype, his new magazine.
2:13Happy Tuesday, everyone. Hope you are having a great week. I'm traveling to New York today for half a week, a little bit over half a week. I've got a private dinner tomorrow night. More on that later in the week. And then we have a live taping of Fashion People on Thursday night with Elizabeth von der Goltz from Poshmark, Indra Rockefeller, and Roy Satrin. We're talking about the idea of good taste and what that actually means in 2026. It should be super interesting. Anyway, if you want to come, it's at 5 p.m. in downtown New York City on Thursday. You can email PuckEvents at puck.news to secure a spot and get more details.
2:51And let's get going with Alistair and Amanda. I just got word that Vanessa Friedman is at the US Open wearing meta Ray-Bans. I assume it's for a story. Thank you for the on the ground intel people and let's get going.
3:10Alistair McKim, welcome back to Fashion People. Hi, Lauren. I'm so happy to have you. The last time you were on, you were just kind of hinting about prototype and now it is here. Congrats.
3:23Alastair McKimm:Yeah, exactly. Last time we spoke, it was Paris Fashion Week and I was there for the shows without a magazine. So it was kind of like this imaginary magazine that was coming. So yeah, it's here today. So we're excited. The first image you released is a chair. Yeah. Tell me about this. What does it mean? so the chair is well it's all sort of part of like the bigger picture of what prototype is which is you know a creative community basically in a creative space where we're making products so the idea is that um the magazine is one of the products that we create so we're also working as you know with our brands and artists and um obviously product designers and you know well what I'd like to do because I just realized is sort of, you know, just the cadence of things is like have one big product push every time we put out an issue, which is every six months.
4:20Alastair McKimm:And then we're also going to like drop products and collaborations throughout the season, as well as obviously all of the work that we're doing within the studio for brands and musicians, artists, et cetera. So I wanted to release the chair before any of the images from the magazine, because I just thought it kind of cemented that idea more clearly, you know. So the first thing we released was an actual, like, animation of the magazine, which is just a white cover. And then the next day after that, we released the chair. And the chair is actually the only, quote-unquote, advertising in the magazine is a picture of the chair and our website address.
5:00Alastair McKimm:So, you know, it's all this super clean, really, like, stripped-back publication, you know. why did you decide to work with Pierre is it Castagnola is that how you pronounce it yeah exactly yeah on this particular thing and how did you all conceive it so everything I mean really everything that I do is very personal you know especially with issue zero like it was so important to me that it was like a personal it was a personal perspective with the team you know the team that I put together are people that either I've worked with for a long time or people that really organically came into my life at the right moment you know so Patrick Slack my art director he reached out when I announced prototype and he said he's incredible art director and he said he was moving back from LA to New York and he would love to meet and everything sort of happened very organically like my managing director Emily Griffiths was someone that I've known for like 20 years and she moved back from nike in portland and sorry in amsterdam she'd been in portland then amsterdam and then back to new york to work as the managing director of prototype and then you know such a small team like olivia singer is my editorial director who is also my editorial director at id magazine and you know when it comes to the chair i actually when i first started conceiving the prototype i just had randomly bought one of pierre's pieces I really love his I love his furniture I love I love reworked classics you know like he basically takes standard garden chairs and like recreates them into like new pieces um and I had actually bought one of his like little stools from my office and and so we actually you know he's he's just um someone that I kind of connected with and I was speaking to him directly to buy his chair and we sort of became friends.
6:55Alastair McKimm:And then when we started Protocybe, I just thought it'd be really nice to collaborate on a chair. And I actually, I wanted to make it a platinum, but that was not possible. That was the idea. I was like, how can we make like the most expensive garden chair? And then we ended up pouring it with aluminum and our aluminum, as I was corrected today. I say aluminum because I'm Irish, but - You're allowed. I knew what you meant. Yeah. Someone laughed at me today for saying aluminium. So yeah, that's really how it happened. And we already have like lots of conversations in the pipeline as far as what we're going to do with products for early next year and also exciting collaborations as well.
7:39Alastair McKimm:You know, like we, you know, obviously, it's everybody's dream to do eyewear and sneakers and all of those things. But I wanted to do something different. And that's why the chair came first. I'm gonna have you on to talk for a longer conversation because you remind me the last time we chatted it was like almost two hours and this is at the top of a previously scheduled podcast that's great with Amanda about the Venice Film Festival and we I actually went to the I talked about this with Amanda so I don't want to get into it but I went to the Dries Foundation there and I saw that it's there's so much object there's so many amazing industrial designers included in that first show.
8:19I guess one question is like, how many of these are going to be for sale? And are they available on prototype? Like if someone listens and they look at it and they want it, can they get it?
8:29Alastair McKimm:Exactly. You can, you go to prototype.world, which is our website. And that was, that was also something that was important to me that the website wasn't like a media website. It's not a magazine website. It's a store, you know, it's all about, it's all about product. So, and I'll try and keep it brief, but like you just go to prototype dot world and the chairs are made to order right now. We've made the prototype, which is one chair, and then they're going to be made to order and numbered, um, as they sell. It's awesome. Um, okay. So you could have gotten advertising. Everyone loves you. People need, they have limited budgets, but they have budgets and they don't want to spend them where they normally spend them you could have you could have had advertisers so why did you decide not to and what your business partner's like what what was the thinking behind high not having advertising and issue it was a very specific pitch initially of like how i wanted to do issue zero i've obviously worked in magazines for like 25 years or something and i just know the politics of once you start inviting everybody in and all the conversation and how that works politically i think it just changes the um it just changes the the like purity of the of the concept so it was always an initial approach to do issue zero with no ads and no cover and again like the same with the covers it becomes very political and it becomes about the brands and it becomes about the talent it becomes like the photographers and all of these different things so really what prototype is is it's 12 zines bound together so each zine has its own cover so within the white cover of the magazine every zine has its own cover and we'll also be selling the zines separately so it's really beautifully like kind of put together and like bought together but then you can also buy the separate zines which are going to be like super limited edition and then we've also done a zine with um tom sachs for his chanel project which because we we had so many images so excited it yeah i mean it's uh it's incredible so this is um you know that's that was just something else that i wanted to do was actually be able to just have the freedom to print and publish what we wanted and yeah the honestly the brands have been so so supportive like you said like i have a lot of relationships with designers and brands across lots of different sort of genres but i think for the next issue we really have a nice concept of how we're going to work with brands as well and how we're going to do things and and also like there's brands that want to support just through the studio and like because the money from the studio obviously supports the publication you know so it's like there's different ways to work with us um and support the project you know as someone who's been in magazines for a long time and you've worked at a lot of different kinds of publications and like you said there's politics there's money involved there's all these things and then there's also like the existential how do we make this a viable business in an era when being a business is important it sounds like you're just being super are these kind of things there's so much i mean just looking at the list of features and and people a lot of it are people you've like you said collaborate it's like almost like your career and in in a magazine um but But are a lot of these ideas, were these things that you had wanted to do for years and never had a place?
12:01Or was this a thing where your core team sat down a year ago and started really conceiving a lot of it? Because it's really creative.
12:10Alastair McKimm:Yeah, I think that's a great question. I mean, it sort of has just evolved throughout my career. There was a section in ID Magazine called Artists in Residence, which I set up during the pandemic. Because I was like, we have all these pages. how can we fill these pages with incredible art? And that section of the magazine, which I launched in 2020, just became a really exciting part of my editorship. And it was like 24 pages, and the artist submitted 20 pages of image, and we do four pages of text. So that's really where the zine idea for Prototype came from. So it's an evolution of that idea.
12:44Alastair McKimm:And then, as you said, all the people that have contributed to this issue are people that I've either worked with for years or once or numerous times. I don't think there's really that many contributors that I haven't worked with before. And also conversations that I was already having in my old jobs that I didn't get to follow through on. So I was able to pick them up and run with it. So that's how it came about, really. Oh, there's just so much. Is the event on Friday public? The DSM thing or no? Oh, that's on Wednesday. Yeah, Wednesday the 9th. Yeah, we're doing a public event at Dover Street Market in New York on Wednesday.
13:26Alastair McKimm:Everybody should go. There's so much to dig into here. Had you ever worked with Peter Miles on a magazine? I know you work with him in other capacities. No, he was actually, yeah, he works with Marc Jacobs. And yeah, and I went to him to talk to him in London. Actually, when it first got announced in January, we had our first meeting about it. And he actually designed the zero, which is on the back of the magazine. So he was my first artist, actually, like first artist commission was the zero. So like everyone else, I'm a fan. I think that's it's cool. And you're working with Susan Kappa, formerly of Condé Nast's strategic advisor.
14:04It's very smart of you. Susan is a very famous, yes, strategic person that advertisers love. I think that's very strategic of you to hire her as a strategic advisor. there's so many good mark holgates on here know me fry there's yeah i'm i'm very excited for karen's um tribute to melanie ward like it's it looks it just sounds amazing you i'm so excited for you and and wish that um i had one right here but i'll have one in a couple of days that i can couple of days i'm gonna see on wedding day right yeah yeah it's so it's the arthur jaffa thing is interesting too because i just went to the arthur jaffa um richard prince show at it at the prada foundation in venice and there is like a little zine there that they you could take home too but um yeah it just feels there's just so much it and it's interesting the tom sachs thing i'm sure you knew about the chanel shop in shop essentially that he's putting in his little workshop on center street but i would i just saw that it sounds amazing i'm so excited so amazing and um yeah
15:21Alastair McKimm:so and also yeah tom and i have worked together before um and he's very close with mario sorrenti he's a close collaborator of mine so yeah it's just an amazing project and also like i said it's become something bigger and we're actually doing he's where so we launched on the 9th tom's launching on the 10th down the 14th we're also doing something together so it's all of these collaborative experiences really that are so special and and like i said it's like sort of you know it's issue zero for my heroes really you know like that was the sort of tagline and and even like some of the titles of the stories like we just released skeptic this morning and his story's tale is a lifetime in the making which is a part of the conversation he's having with novelists but it really feels like lifetime in the making is something that I could have called this magazine as well you know because it really is like you said it's all my experiences over my career so and all the people I've met along the way that are really supportive so it's an honor to publish their work really well it looks it honestly looks so great and it's so amanda and i talk about this as a preview to the conversation for people who stick around about like how much work you have to put into things to make them good essentially and you obviously put an incredible amount of work here and i it's just like there's so much to kind of parse through and i'm excited for you and excited to see what else you make out of it thank you yeah i know it's like i remember when i did my first issue of idea it was the same thing you pour your whole life and soul into it and then you're like okay now i've got to turn around and do it again because it's like yeah before we know it we've got to publish another one so we're just like now it's like on to the next it's like this is kind of old news for us so it's like really thinking about what what the next issue is going to look like as an issue one you know well excited to see it happy for you and also if you're interested in this if you want one of the zines or all of the zines go to the dover street market event on wednesday what is it like at six yeah six five or six six to eight or go to the prototype dot world store yeah and order that chair order that chair yeah exactly support the arts.
17:43Alistair, thank you for being here. It's always great to see you and I'll see you this week. Yeah.
17:48Alastair McKimm:See you soon. We'll talk soon. Hey there, I'm Kendra Adachi and my show, The Lazy Genius Podcast, helps you be a genius about the things that matter and lazy about the things that don't. And you get to decide what matters. I'm not here to tell you what to do. I'm here to give you a new way to see. Episodes of The Lazy Genius Podcast are full of compassionate time management tips and permission slips to do what makes sense for you. New episodes drop every Monday. Follow and listen to the Lazy Genius podcast on the free Odyssey app or wherever you get your podcasts.
18:26Amanda Dobbins, welcome back to Fashion People. Thank you so much for having me. Lovely to see you again. Lovely to see you. It's been less than 15 hours, I would say, 10 hours. That's true. How was your trip back ultimately? You know, it was good. I got a ride to the airport from my friends who were in Venice for an afternoon and they said, we're going to drive to the airport. Would you like a ride? And it was lovely to see them. I fell asleep on the plane, which was good. I was saying to you before we started recording that I was so incredibly tired yesterday, even though I feel like I got more sleep than I normally do, but there was not, maybe there was so much adrenaline from our whirlwind Saturday night and Sunday morning that I was, you know, but I had an amazing time.
19:18How are you doing? You've been in Venice since what, last Wednesday? We're going on a week now. Yeah. Wow. I got in, I got in Tuesday night and, you know, I'm here as a film journalist and a film critic covering movies for the big picture. So I've mostly been in festival rat mode, which is on the island where the movies are being shown, darting in and out, you know, eating bad salads out of paper containers, this sort of thing. And the days sort of blend together when that happens. But we did have kind of a magical weekend, a magical 24 hours in the middle there where I transformed from festival journalist to person who goes to parties and goes to, you know, museums and consumes art and film.
20:10We saw a film too. We were at the premiere of Primetime. Lance Oppenheim's a film about Chris Hansen starring Robert Pattinson. So, you know, we did it all. But I'm great. Now I'm back to being, you know, I'm going to a four hour documentary tonight. So Cinderella has returned, you know, or Cinderella is back home or whatever. How are you feeling? One quick, I do want to talk about primetime in our experience at the premiere of primetime. Thank you to A24 for allowing for this content to happen, by the way, because it was thrilling for me. This morning, there was this news I woke up to that there's an Elizabeth Holmes, So you have A24, an Elizabeth Holmes documentary by Nathan Fielder.
21:00I have never felt more anxiety. I feel way more anxiety about this than I did about primetime, which did give me anxiety. But what do you think about this? Is Sean going to get to see it? Did he get to see it at Telluride? I think he's, yes, my co-host Sean Fennessy has already seen it because it was, so it was a secret screening at the Telluride Film Festival, which is kind of the other half of this weekend and the kickoff of awards season. Half the films come here to Venice, the other half go to Telluride. They're always the same weekend. Some skip from Venice to Telluride, you know, and hop on the jets afterwards to do both.
21:41And so this was the secret screening. This was kind of the culmination of Telluride. And it was rumored that there was a big ticket secret screening or that there was something going. And it was, you know, confirmed and screened Sunday night. And then the trailers went out. You're supposed to get anxiety from a Nathan Fielder documentary about, you know, anything or Elizabeth Holmes. That's, that's the, the energy that they're going for. But it is true that it's, so they apparently spent the month before she went to prison with her. And I, you know, that's all I know. I haven't seen it yet. I've seen some of this, this screenshots that's accompanying the trailer and it, I look forward to it very much.
22:28I'm sure that it will be sort of watching through your fingers. But that's the that's the point, right? Because that is kind of what happened with Elizabeth Holmes writ large. Yeah, and all Nathan Fielder, everybody should listen to the big picture I don't know when you all are going to be able to talk about this but when when you're able to engage with it but um all Nathan Fielder work I I watch some of it because it feels important to watch it and there's all there is like some level of entertainment to it the last show the one where he became a pilot or whatever I didn't watch far enough but Dan said we we had a projector in our room and because like I always fall asleep if we watch anything after 8 p.m.
23:15like it just doesn't I do know that about you yes yeah yes it's like a real and it's been for years it is it's gotten worse as I've aged but it's it's been for years but so we got a projector for our bedroom so we could watch tv in bed and Dan said I woke up in the middle of an episode once and I I was just like, I just think this is really important art. Then I just went back to sleep. Anyway. I do think that Nathan Fielder is kind of the leader of a new school of, I mean, you know, he works primarily in documentary or docudrama sort of and is often a character in his own work in one way or another.
23:58but in a group of younger filmmakers who are reinventing the way that we see ourselves in the world and engage with it, whether, you know, in film and in his, the series that he does. And so I agree with you that it's important. That doesn't mean that it's not going to be squirmy, but it's supposed to be squirmy, which is also, you know, I believe that Lance Oppenheim, who directed Primetime is also involved in this documentary. So speaking of squirmy. Oh, interesting. Yeah. So big weekend for him. The theme today is discomfort for sure because the fashion subjects we're going to get into soon are also could be subjects, Nathan Fielder's or Lance Oppenheim's subjects.
24:47So we went to this premiere of Primetime, which is about Chris Hansen and To Catch a Predator and that like period of time. I've mentioned this to, I've mentioned it to my friends who are all Italian who drove me to the airport last night and they were like, one of them was a huge fan of yours and was like, oh my God. It was amazing. Like a 32 year old Italian designer. Well, I'm also really glad that this person helps you navigate the regatta and get to the airport because we're going to fast. Yeah. Yes, it was close, but I walked to the main, I was fine. It was I just but someone messaged me and was like, did you see the regatta?
25:28I was like, no, I avoided it at all costs. So every year in the middle of the Venice Film Festival, there is a historic regatta that shuts down the Grand Canal in Venice, which I understand is a hilarious string of words to put in a sentence. But what it means in practicality is that it's even harder to get around Venice, which is logistically complicated being a collection of tiny islands. And so I walked over a bridge and saw a little bit of it. But you and I, not to step on the later part of this podcast, but we learned that yesterday was the regatta from quite literally Dries Van Noten himself on Sunday morning.
26:08And then didn't know how we were going to get to the places that we needed to be later. So thank you to your friend, the Italian designer, listener, big picture, for getting you out of Venice. before Saturday night. Anyway, this was a long way of saying on Saturday night, we went there. There was no regatta and we took a water taxi. A very expensive water taxi. Yes. So just so to be clear, as I was alluding earlier, I do spend most of this festival as a journalist just going to press screenings and trying to see as many movies as possible. And as many world premieres. Venice only Venice does only world premieres.
26:47So there's nothing from can here there's nothing um that has been seen before and it's a convenient and it's like excellent way to get to see movies can you explain to the fashion industry people because so now if you've been to like art basel you've been to the art fairs i have never been to any sort of trade show for the film industry or the television industry i've always been interested in the TCAs. There's something about them that compels me. Sure. I've never done TCAs either, because I think those are more, well, first of all, they're television, which I am not very good at watching, much less covering.
27:31And then that has a more advertiser, you know, that's tied to the upfronts and a structure just of programming TV. So I don't know very much about it. tell us what like who goes to these festivals other than many journalists it seems grueling if truly grueling especially because of the fact that it's hard to get around venice so like that makes it even harder and but what what is the point of these things well so i this is the 70th 70 somethingth year of the Venice Film Festival and so it's been going on for many years and it is kind of baked into the the film world and particularly international cinema by which I mean non-Hollywood cinema she says um as someone who lives in Los Angeles um as a platform really for movies that would probably only be locally seen or not distributed or increasingly that want to boost from on the international stage.
28:44And so to have a Venice premiere at this point and be in competition in Venice vaults you just gets you a level of attention and gets your movie seen and it gets your movie seen with the people who come here who are both journalists and industry people and then also film goers because that is the thing about a festival that I think you and I were talking about that's different than a fashion show is that you know there are press and industry screenings there are screenings for various people with the very like the various badges that you get to be accredited here but there are also many many public screenings and so many many people can buy and do buy a ticket and they can buy a ticket to just a regular public screening, they can buy a ticket to a gala premiere, a world premiere, and they do.
29:34So you get a mix of the celebrities who are here or the people presenting films who are here to use the red carpet and all of the attention that is focused on a Venice premiere to market their film and look really glamorous on a premiere. And then you get the people who have sort of dressed up like they're going to a giant fancy premiere and it's their big night out and then you also get younger people and students and people who managed to grab a ticket at the last minute who are still in cargo shorts and they all crowd together in this room that what did you think of the size of the sala grande now that you've been in it is that the the roof is that the that's where we were yes that's the that's the main that's that's where the premieres are yeah uh i thought it was pretty big like it was amazing to me that all those people paid who were because we were on the balcony with the people who are like connected to the the film but i was it was amazing to me that all those people paid they stood up at the end and and clapped for lance and robert pattinson and merit weaver for many minutes yes so you got to witness the um the standing ovation which has become sort of an industry you know a thing you'll hear whatever movie got a five minute ovation or 14 minute ovation and this and you know this is a thing at can as well at the international film festivals and yeah so The Cannes main theater, the Lumiere, is much larger than Venice.
31:22At least I think it felt much larger to me when I went. It didn't feel huge. Exactly. And what I've always thought is funny is that, you know, those standing ovations that we see on social media and are timed and filmed and everyone's like, wow, they're clapping forever. I mean, you turn to me. We're very close. The balcony is pretty small. Everybody is very close to each other, relatively speaking. it feels like less distance even than a broadway stage so i think the theater is probably bigger than a broadway theater but there's something about no one's on stage they're just up a couple steps on a on a balcony and everyone's just standing next to each other clapping and i find it to be one of the funniest traditions and the disconnect between what you see like on an instagram clip and what you experience just standing right there being like yep we're still clapping because we're all performing this to me is is just one of the funniest things that exists.
32:16So, you know, film journalists always say that the ovation thing is fake and that it's it's a thing that's made up and it's timed and it's not an indicator of anything, which I which I do think is is true. It's certainly not an indication of whether the film is good or even its commercial appeal going forward. But it is a thing that everybody does that I just find hysterical and is sort of like the it's the mingling of the very it's a private experience of this this public thing in a way that at a fashion show it's just a closed circuit you know and this is not this is all of us just in the performance together yes and it feels like sort of like at a play when you're doing a standing ovation but the people in the movie aren't they're in the audience.
33:05So everyone's just sort of clapping around them. And then the mix of people. So the all the sort of it, it reminded me of like, the idea of like a Shakespeare play, where all the sort of townspeople are on the floor, close to the stage. Yeah, they're all on the floor close to and they're all looking up at them, clapping. And then in, in our group, like jeremy o harris was there who he and his his um friend who who has it or i don't know if you're going to that film i think it's on wednesday they said yeah i think it's premiering after yeah of the film that he was filming in tokyo when he had his famous incident um but they were wearing margela but but it was interesting like the people in in the seats with us standing around many of them encouraging the claps because someone is recording the timing the claps which I thought there would be something more official and then we talked to some of your other journalist friends after and they were like well some people count it from the time the movie ends to now I I think they need to have an official person counting the standing ovation and like how long it's taking I think I mean but I think also everyone everyone inside and out of the festivals acknowledges that it's fake and we're just doing it for the headlines.
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34:30So to make it official. Yeah, I guess you're right. Then you can't game it. No, true. And it was just like, it was so interesting. There was a woman in like a 1920s dress, beaded dress in front of us who was like very excited and needed to move out. And there's just like, and then there's Robert Pattinson and his like almost zoot suit, Dior suit suit thing and his hair was clearly dyed for a role so he looked really dramatic and like like a theater actor or something I don't know the whole thing was so um it was it was so interesting to just see like you said there are people in couture there were definitely a couple couture dresses there that night and taking photos but then there are people in like chinos or whatever and just this like pomp and circumstance around this thing for this movie that I thought was very very good and could win awards potentially or be nominated for awards I think it'll be I think it'll be in the conversation it's very buzzy um the Robert Pattinson performance is is big and Pattinson-esque and memorable and I'm a I'm a huge fan of his I think he's one of the great working actors and movie stars which are two different jobs so yeah it I mean and it was buzzy.
35:45It had a Saturday night Venice premiere. It premiered at 5 p.m. and then the Gallagher brothers, Liam and Noel Gallagher, walked the carpet later that night for the premiere of the Oasis documentary. So, you know, it was Venice being its starriest and putting on its biggest show. But that's what's interesting about it, right? It's like the juxtaposition of this, you know, the glamour and seeming exclusivity. And then the fact also that many people can just you can buy a ticket and roll up and I think that's cool it totally and it's such a reflection of Hollywood and Los Angeles and like the thing about Hollywood that's so interesting to me is that it's kind of I think about pretty woman all the time but like when at the end when the guy is like what's your dream like that's your dream yeah that is what Los Angeles in Hollywood is.
36:40Like there are a lot of regular people who go there and they try really, really hard for 15 years and suddenly they sell a movie and they become gazillionaires or whatever, or they try forever and nothing happens or they show up and the next day, you know, you, it's a Mulholland Drive situation. Like you just, you never know, but it is, and it is reflected in those rooms because there are like totally normal unglamorous people and then there are the most glamorous people in the world and when you're not in the room you just see the red carpet which we can discuss because i i think this red carpet is quite different from like a really glamorous can or tell your ride where everybody's wearing jeans and they're doing yeah To your point, and something that always tickles me and still tickles the 12 year old in me who was, you know, taping Oscar specials and, you know, following the red carpet and had always wanted to go to these places is that it does happen.
37:47And, you know, like we walked, we watched the red carpet. We watched this, this glamorous premiere. Everybody got dressed up, but it is also, it's a performance, right? I think I find that everyone's conception of Hollywood and, and really, honestly, I think the world at large is that there's just like, that there is some inner sanctum that once you get into it, then like you're in and this, this world of, you know, glamor and privilege and you've made it like exist and you just got to cross the line. And that may be true. And those people may just be like very secretive and not inviting us. But for the most part, everyone's putting on a show, you know, and the show is the thing.
38:29And I'll never forget, I went to Cannes for the first time this year and I walked out of just a screening room. I can't remember what movie I saw. And I was just looking at some crowd barriers that were right outside the screening. And I instantly said, oh, this is where they do the photo calls. And I recognized it from all of the photographs that I've seen for years and years. And you can all, you know, think of, you know, we all have some great photo call favorites from Cannes, because it has a very specific backdrop. But it was just really, honestly, some metal barriers. And that it can be transformed that quickly is, you know, it's a different kind of magic and art than filmmaking.
39:06But there's something to it that still thrills me. Everybody's putting on a show. Yes, that's the lesson. So what did you think? What have you thought of the red carpet so far? I was thinking about last season when it was really rainy and everybody's dresses were wrinkled last year. And it was the designer debut. There were so many designer debut red carpet looks. So it was like extremely intense. Whereas this time, it felt almost the opposite, like so casual. I mean, not only because the Gallagher brothers were wearing jeans on the red carpet. And honestly, I think looked great. I mean, Liam was wearing at least some sort of like smoking-esque jacket.
39:48He was not wearing a windbreaker. Okay. He wore sneakers. But yeah. So, you know, the larger Hollywood narrative this year at Venice is that this is, and this was true at Cannes as well, is that it's not, there aren't a lot of Hollywood movies here. There aren't a lot of really big ticket, huge star, like huge red carpet moments like four or five years ago, when Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck got together, back together, I should say, like they one of their first couple re debuts was on the Venice Film Festival. And she obviously on the on the red carpet for the last duel. And she looked amazing.
40:32And it was just this whole like, oh, my God, can you believe that this is back together? We just don't. There's no one with that wattage and no movie with that wattage this year. It's a lot of people that we love. You know, I think so. Wild Horse Nine is the new Martin McDonough movie that debuted here and then went to Telluride and kind of started its Oscar campaign. And John Malkovich is the star of that movie. and he's a beloved actor who's going to be kind of doing the it's time oscar campaign this year and he was there in in dior you know looking like i thought he looked great and it was a very malkovich vibe but it's more it's more quirky i guess it's less like traditional ambassador red carpet if that makes sense yeah i thought john malkovich was by far the best dressed person of the of the week because he has amazing style like he I mean he had a fashion brand for a long time I think right I didn't love the the Kendall to be honest even I mean god bless my my favorite stylist Daniel Goldberg but I did not love the Kendall Jenner Peggy Guggenheim cosplay that much like I liked the Celine the floral Celine dress she was wearing but I just like I don't like themes to be honest like I don't like theme-y stuff yeah this isn't we're aligned on on Halloween which is not for us yes exactly exactly um but it was interesting yeah there wasn't there wasn't a ton that I thought Suki Waterhouse looked great in Saint Laurent it was funny my mom crew from LA was posting I'm like oh I'm at that premiere yeah they were not that impressed but um these are all people who work in entertainment industry and they were like cool and she suki waterhouse also is you know obviously um a very beautiful and talented person but one of the rare ones where up close i thought it looked as good as in the photos which isn't always the case yeah and and the other person that i i didn't see in person but have seen many photos is i think amal cluny looked really good in that one black dress she always looks amazing but i thought there was something about her looks she wore a black dress that had like a caged some sort of like very subtle cage detailing on on the top and then she wore like a polka dotted off the shoulder oh and Stella McCartney um yeah dress I thought she looked it she always looks pretty but like I really like those are things I would want to wear it was she I thought she looked like particularly really glamorous this, this time around.
43:12She did as well. Also, you know, she arrived in the first water taxi photos were her and, you know, all silk, which you and I have experienced the humidity in, in Venice these past days. And she looks unbothered. Whereas I don't really think that I could like my silk would have just been absolutely drenched instantly. It is, it is incredibly humid here. It's incredibly sweaty. It's crazy. It was I was like, oh, I now I remember what humidity is. Yeah, I hadn't experienced it in so long. We should say we had a lot of fun dressing up. You looked great in your Dolce & Gabbana. Thank you so much. We did.
43:53And you were wearing Goliath. Yes. And in my blue blue of my dress was you. You had a little blue. We didn't do it on purpose, but we could have been bridesmaids in a second wedding for sure. Yeah. No, we had it. It was a very lovely mom's night out. And we did, you know, there's a extensive water bus system here in Venice. And so for the most part, you take the shuttles back and forth. They've done a great job with the public transportation this year. I haven't been stranded on the Lido once. But for this occasion, you and I took a water taxi to the dock where all of the the celebrities are photographed getting off the dock.
44:37And, you know, we did the photo in the back of the taxi and it was really fun. That's not how I live all of the time. No. In fact, never. But besides that. But yeah, we had a great time and a very fun premiere that did feel like everyone was excited to be there, that it was kind of it was the the event. And then that rolling into a Oasis was the big night at Venice. One more note on the red carpet. I am just looking at this photo of Rooney and Kate. And by the way, Vogue.com, guys. All the best looks from the 2026 Film Festival. You need to have the outfit credits on here. I should not need to look this up.
45:23You all need to get the outfit credits on there. Rooney and Kate Mara at their premiere of the Werner Herzog film. Yeah, bucking faster. which I want to see this movie and also look like I thought a lot of the Louis Vuitton there's a I follow this Instagram something by Sasha and she does red carpet she's she's unflinching in her red carpet reviews and she posted a bunch of Vuitton looks from a person who I'd never an actress I'd never seen that were really terrible this Rooney Mara Vuitton look is kind of weird. I kind of love it. And then K Mara's wearing Armani. And again, there were so many gorgeous Armani looks on the red carpet.
46:10This is a little odd, but I think they look awesome in these dresses. They look awesome. And also I have seen the film. I won't spoil it for those who want to see it. But just to say they are they star in the movie together and they are they are the co-stars they do everything in the film together and it is um uh an offbeat you know film so that they look great and a little strange and are coordinated and are doing this together is it's not costume dressing but it's just it's in the spirit of the thing which i really appreciate yeah jack o 'connell and dior i don't love it i would have lost the scarf i would have lost the scarf.
46:54I mean, we love Jack O 'Connell, though. I can't wait to see Ink. Yeah. Ink is Danny Boyle's new movie. It opened the festival about when Rupert Murdoch, who's played by Guy Pearce, bought The Sun and Jack O 'Connell is the star. And so it starts in the it's 6970 in the UK. So the clothes and the and the suiting in that worked for me. I should say that. I mean, you know, it's just kind of doing, you know, Mad Men light, but they all look very handsome. Great. I can't wait for that. Okay. So we had this amazing time. Thank you, Amanda, for organizing this, this dream content. It was really awesome.
47:34My pleasure. Now you now you've seen it up close. It was amazing. I'm so glad I got to go and experience it and have a better understanding of how that world works. Because that's all people want. They should just have like a someone with a one of those like video cameras on their heads going around because it's really fascinating just to see the different mix of people and what they wear and and all that stuff um so the next morning we got up and we went to the Fondation Dries Van Noten where we were where there is a um there is an exhibition that that launched with the Venice Biennale called the only I believe it's called The Only Protest is Beauty.
48:17Let's just look that up just to make sure. And it's the first, yes, The Only Protest is Beauty. It started April 25th, and it's going through October 4th. And it's the first exhibition from the Fondazione Dries Van Noten. They only bought this palazzo, this very famous old, old, old palazzo, I think a year ago or something, and got this exhibition up and running. It is it was true. First of all, we were walked through the exhibition by Dries Van Noten, the man who, by the way, does not know me. He greeted us and gave us a whole tour. He certainly doesn't know me. It was astounding. I was so thrilled.
49:03Thank you, Lauren. Thank you, Dries Van Noten. It was what a privilege. And so, yeah, he walked us through the whole exhibit and explained the concepts and pointed out, you know. told us about all of the artists that he'd curated and how they'd updated the palazzo. I mean, unbelievable. It was amazing. Four-person team put the show together. It is a mix of design and art and fashion. And as you mentioned, as we have lunch, I would suggest maybe the only good restaurant in Venice or only specific kind of restaurant in Venice. It kind of went back to that conversation Eugene Rabkin and I were having about is fashion art is fashion design.
49:50And I think this exhibition, it was really about process. And they chose people who there are only, I think, three fashion designers in it, Ray Calcubo, Christian Lacroix, and this young Central St. Martin's graduate whose name I'll have to pull up. But it was truly remarkable to see all these different makers of things, their work kind of in conversation with each other and how much research and time. And Dries said something about, they used to do four collections a year. So they just kind of thought about it that way, like we can do this. But the level of research to have the Venice jeweler next to the upstate New York sculptor or whatever next to the the British maker of chairs like it just was so there's so much we could have spent we spent a few hours we could have been there for the entire day and honestly I wish I could go back it's I won't be able to but it is it was astounding and such an incredible experience and so inspiring.
51:06And yeah, it was interesting thinking about it after the night before. Yes. And what Dries said to us in explaining the exhibition and what I have been thinking about since we went was, and also to that conversation you had with Eugene of is fashion art or is fashion design. And this, you know, is clearly on the art side of fashion, this is identifying what that half of the experience, but also for me, kind of reminded me that art is, you know, we have just been talking about performance and the performance of the Venice Film Festival. And there is something, you know, big and demonstrative. And I associate art with a capital A with like this idea of like divine inspiration and I do think that that's a major part of it but there is just at the same time execution and and and hard work and building and engineering and just the actual making of the art there's a practicality and an intention and a follow-through to all art whether it is a painting or a piece of fashion or a piece of jewelry or a lamp or a chandelier that that you know the the exhibit uses the palazzo's like not original but chandeliers from the 18th century i believe so um and you know and it drees identified it to us in the idea of like things being made by hand yeah and which is i think like a very elegant and simple but way of of putting it but um i was just reminded how much skill and craft and what diligent work goes into making good art as well in the in the most in the most positive way and that that itself can be a source of of inspiration yeah you have to put the work in yeah and if you put the work in something like really incredible comes out of it but if you don't put the work in and now this does kind of ladder back to that conversation I had with Eugene about what is the work, like what is the process.
53:21The exact name of the exhibition is The Only True Protest is Beauty. And it was inspired by a Phil Ox, the activist, as something that he said at some point. But the Palestinian designer from St. Martin's, his name is Ahim Hassan Musla. And I asked Dries, it was interesting to me because it's like Christian Lacroix, obviously Dries has a long relationship with him and they had done a collection together and that made a lot of sense. And putting that next to Raquel Kubo made sense to me in the conversation. But then you have this like student from St. Martin's and I said to Drew, he's like, do you still look at the shows?
54:01And he said, yeah, I engage in fashion. I still believe, like basically I still believe in fashion. And it was really interesting to me as someone who covers the business and the transformation of the business and how that has sort of destroyed the act of being a fashion designer. And yet there's this person who, he doesn't really need, like I was just surprised that he looks at student shows and he gets something out of them and was able to identify this person to be strong enough to go up against two of the most important designers in the history of fashion. And then it was also Sophie Buhay, the jewelry designer and former fashion designer whose work I have a lot of and who I've known for 20 years to see some of her objects sitting there.
54:59And, you know, in the context of this show, it was really amazing. I was really moved by it. And also it's absolutely gorgeous. And we also went to the Prada Foundation and that was, there was a great show there too. But I don't know. I just, it was a really special 12 hours. Yeah, it was. But I mean, again, what a privilege. Thank you for setting that up. But, you know, I felt like I haven't seen as much art this year as I would have liked to, given that it is also the Biennale year and many of the pavilions are up. But, you know, you go and you see a lot of things and some things you connect to and some things you don't.
55:44And to have this guided tour and thus it explained to me and to really like activate all of my brain sensors of what art and what a museum show can do as well was just really exciting. yeah it was it was fabulous thank you also to eugenia from poulos who is the like one of the chicest women alive i'm totally obsessed with her for helping to organize it and again thank you to drees it was it was awesome it was just like it was a dream it was a dream experience and then and then he said no vaporetto's on the grand canal today just so you know yeah he had everything covered. Yeah, because it was it was funny, because when they organized it, they were like, anytime, but Sunday afternoon is fine.
56:32And I was like, Oh, they must be having an event or something. It was just the regatta, which it always is fine. I always forget about the regatta. And then it's always here, but it's fine. Why have it during this period? I'll never know. But you know, these, these, these places, they they do what they want to do.
56:56we've been talking a lot about putting on a show. I wanted to chat with you briefly about the show that was the ceremony for the LVMH fries, which took place on, on Friday afternoon at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in sort of, I think it's still technically Paris. It's almost the suburbs, but there have been many memes. This was memed by Evan Ross Katz. Like that means you're a part of pop culture. does um jennifer lawrence who is a spokesperson for dior and who presented the awards they always have a big celeb she was wearing a gorgeous cover buttoned dior jacket that delphi and arnault was wearing it in white and she was wearing it in black but anyway she called fashion fascism obviously on purpose because she's a hilarious person but everybody was cracking up jonathan Anderson like blushed cracking up Michael Ryder giggling in the background I enjoyed the extended Jonathan Anderson because he was to the end you know all of the judges and designers have to line up behind her yeah it's it's really great reaction that's not quite on par with the um the Oscars reaction shot when they announced the wrong winner you know when they announced yes uh La La Land and actually Moonlight wins and everyone's pointing up at the stage just so.
58:17But you get a lot of good stuff. Jonathan Anderson, just like really several phases of laughing and turning away, which I thought was so funny. It was also good that he was next to the designer who does Poochie because she's like pretty chill. She's not as like in, that's a brand. They're kind of like, we'll let you do what you want. She worked at Louis Vuitton forever. I believe her name is Camille. but um she's like a chill relaxed person so it was funny because they were sort of laughing about it together if he had been next to like nicola jesquare i don't know what would have happened phoebe philo is directly is in the is in jennifer lawrence's frame and i thought he held it together very very well basically didn't even engage yeah um though then later she was also just jared's roundup of the the event included uh the rudest photo select of phoebe filo that i've ever ever seen and i depend on just jared for a lot of my news but you gotta not pick a photo where phoebe filo's eyes are closed that's that's my note to the photo editors at just jared.com i am curious what trousers she was wearing which is uh obviously at the end in the end all we care about is what Phoebe Philo is wearing yeah um what would Phoebe Philo wear but so there's a new Phoebe Philo drop on September 8th I have gotten the catalog as as they call it um okay to to look and there's a pair of navy drill like cotton drill darkest navy like ink trousers with a little carpenter pant loop and I was like I wonder if those are the ones don't tell me this right now they're really good don't tell me this you know and it's like where yeah but i'm i guess i guess september 8th i'll still be here do they even sell phoebe philo in venice there must be one place there's gotta be well don't tell me where it is for you um but i also thought there's this great video of her and michael rider who worked for her for i don't know 10 years chatting before the and they're laughing and it was everybody's analyzing this video and then severing who's the ceo of selene she basically did like a linkedin leadership post talking about and it was really well done like if you're gonna do a leak thought leadership post on linkedin you do this one about like generations working together and then have a video of the two designers sitting there chatting.
1:00:57And it was, it was like excellent corporate marketing. I thought that was really funny. My least favorite part, and I love this stuff. Like I could watch these videos for hours and people just kept sending them to me. Like, did you see this one? Did you see the way this one reacted to this? Do you? It's so fun. But the one thing that I did not that I was like, guys, this is too far is Stella McCartney, who, by the way, her company is not owned by LVMH. They let her buy it back because nobody wanted to be in business together. But as someone who used to work at LVMH said to me, oh, she gets a free green pass forever because she's like very sustainable.
1:01:38She's always like helping everybody. Anyway, she did like one of these. It reminded me of and I realized that the Ellen DeGeneres Oscars selfie was 2014. 2014. Wow. Which I thought it was like 2022. But it reminded me of that where she like did a selfie with Bernard Arnault. And I think Delphine is in it. And I was just like, guys, no, this is going too far. I'm happy to see Bernard Arnault and his wife and two of their children, a photo of them with the Pope. Like that is when I want to see I do not want a selfie of these people. It was so I I was like, and it's so. Pope, yes. Stella McCartney, no.
1:02:20Exactly. I was just like, I don't like it. Like out of all, I think that Bernard Arnault has been doing some brilliant press. His response to the Le Mans series was brilliant. His joining of X was brilliant. The selfie, the Stella selfie. But it was actually like a very well composed photo. But anyway, I just was like, this has gone too far. And this is making me. you know how I keep talking about how this industry has consolidated and peaked like to me that is the like yeah image of that it is and it reminds me of the beginning of our conversation where you know it it does feel like the opening of the fashion world a little bit from this very closed you're not invited you can't like these aren't public events right and the thing about the Oscars that I think, you know, it's obviously like almost 100 years old.
1:03:14And the Oscars were invented as a marketing tool, by the way, by the studios 100 years ago. But so it has a lot of history and film history grandfathered in, but it is also just exciting because it's the one time a year where all of the famous people are in a room together. And then you get to see it. And this is not that different it's just for the fashion world you know they're the london uh the bfc the british fashion council has tried to make their fashion awards global they call it the fashion awards i think this is a good example maybe lvmh and caring and otb and all the other and chanel and hermes should really start to support one of these things and make it a bigger deal because they kind of feel a little prevent the reward shows feel a little provincial the lvmh prize is the closest thing obviously it's but it's only that group so it doesn't um it feels a little bit narrow but yeah it would be fun it is it is just fun to see them all together and especially like phoebe did a an interview with this video this very famous he's this film this video journalist Loic Prigent.
1:04:34I don't ask me. I'm going to get made fun of so badly for this. But Loic, no one uses the last name anyway. She did a very quick interview with him spontaneously. She never does interviews. So that was interesting to like just to hear her speak because she rarely, rarely does um but it's fun like it if they want fashion to be a pillar of pop culture like right you get memed by evan ross katz yeah like that is what it is you know and it is also it's a little bit like we were talking about the festival where the more people that can participate even you know in this in this performance then I don't know then it it brings more more attention yeah and you know one one person mentioned to me that the fact that they all came and they were all in the room and thinking like Marc Jacobs wasn't there because he's not owned by LVMH anymore again why was Stella McCartney still there anyway I'm just joking I'm not really joking but I am kind of joking like I'm not trying to be too mean about that But what this person said was, you know, the power is with the executives.
1:05:50All of these people showed up and did their job. And 10 years ago, 15 years ago, it was kind of the opposite. Like what Bernard Arnault basically did. And in the context of like all the stuff that happened with John Galeano last week, it's interesting because he was the poster child for this is he built them up and made them stars. and then he it's not that he knocked them down but like his need for them became less because he sort of the building them up is how they built the brands and so it's an interesting thing where now these people are really company men they're designers for hire and it's less about them being the center of it it's really about the company being the center of it and that sort of leads me to the next the final thing I wanted to discuss with you which was Virginie Viard who was the creative director of Chanel for I think about five years from the time Karl Lagerfeld died until 2024 she is releasing a memoir and in on September 30th in in France by Edition Stock which is like like a big publisher, I believe they're owned by Hachette, like a big imprint that is essentially a tell-all of her life at Chanel.
1:07:10No one has written about this. It's public information. Like it's on the, you can pre-order the book. Is it your impression that so it's been embargoed or like a deeply protected secret because they want to make a splash? It must be. I mean, it's called A Glance or A Look, A Life at Chanel. Un Regard, Un Vichez Chanel. Yeah. Which roughly translates to like A Glance or A Look, A Life at Chanel. And the book in the notes, which they have, I don't think, I think they were in English, not sure. It says the book is an attempt at an intimate answer in the form of a story of emancipation. So she's going to talk about her life and work at Chanel for all those years and then about when she left.
1:08:03So the question is, is it going to be like, she got fired, whatever. Like it's not, it's not that, I imagine it's not actually going to be that dramatic, but the cover is extremely, I'm going to send it to you. It is extremely dramatic. And it comes out on September 30th, like a few days before the show. They're clearly trying to... I mean, it does feel like... And the marketing arm is different than the author arm. And they clearly know that they have something. And I would imagine that it's not been easy to be Virginie Viard in the era of Matthew Blasi fever. So, you know, I think, yeah. So I'm sure that the marketers know that and are playing into what our perceptions of it will be.
1:09:02But who knows whether the book has anything to do with that. Yes, her abrupt departure in 2024 without any public statement raised many questions. The book is an attempt and an intimate answer in the form of a story of emancipation. Okay. And she tells the inner workings of a house rarely told from the inside, the ateliers of Rue Cambon, the birth of the collections, the legendary fashion shows, the numerous collaborations, the metamorphosis of contemporary fashion, and above all, the profound artistic partnership that united her with Karl Lagerfeld. Look, I can't wait to read this book. I think it sounds really interesting.
1:09:39My question for you is, as someone you intimately understand the fashion industry, you are a consumer you're an observer you are I don't know what intimately like a year ago I had to ask you what a skew is because I didn't realize that it was SKU so let's stop keeping unit but for anyone but but the point being you are a fan the thing that is interesting and I had Patti Powell on last week to talk about Chanel and who she was an executive for a long time and she's still a beauty executive but she was a fashion industry executive she's mad at Bernard on our nose. She knows all these people. She's also a 40 year Chanel VIC.
1:10:16So she is an interesting and what she said to me was the reason and she loved Virginie Chanel. The reason Chanel works is they put Chanel first. And I think that that's what the LVMH prize you could see they're putting LVMH first, they're putting the brands first, even though they value these people and understand and want to let them be creative, which is why that too has worked so well is that Chanel comes first, but they're also letting him do what he wants to do. And I think it's a personality thing too. Like he is the right balance of creative force without being all about him. But do you, like, are you interested in her at all?
1:10:57Because she wasn't, she was always the messenger. She was never the star. And like, would you, if this, I mean, you speak French, so you could probably read this kind of, But like, would you engage with this book? I will engage with your interpretation of it. And what I wanted to ask you was like, do you think that this will be any sort of business insight into the family and how Chanel is run? And is that interesting? I don't, because otherwise, you know, I wasn't really, I'm not a Chanel consumer. um not yet anyway and um and I certainly wasn't in that era because she wasn't you know that that Chanel did not feel kind of at the center of honestly pop culture in a way that I do feel that the Matthew Blasi clothes and kind of and it helps that there was this whole wave of of new designers and you know it was kind of like saved by the bell the new class and so it does all feel a bit more narrativized but yeah I wasn't paying attention so I wasn't paying attention back then like I knew what you know the bag was but I and I remember that show when they they all went like shopping in the grocery carts you know um and I could tell you who are a couple of the celebrity ambassadors are um but you know I do think that not the revitalization but the the invention and And honestly, really just the sense that Chanel is the thing right now.
1:12:41And I do feel like I have a visceral reaction to the clothes and the colors. And that I would want to try to wear these in a way that I have no idea how I would have worn any version-y stuff. Yeah. Or at least I would like to live a life where it made sense to wear these. So I do respond to the clothes. But I do also think I'm just responding to the narrative and the moment of it all. Well, it's interesting. I went to the opening of Jennifer Guidi's show at Gagosian on, was it Thursday night here in Paris, last Thursday. And she's a Los Feliz based artist whose work I like, and she's friends with my friend Gabby.
1:13:20And so I got to say hi to her. And she was wearing head to toe Chanel. She looked amazing. She was wearing like a silk tweed skirt, a knit top, and then the shoes. And she, just what you said. I don't know her. Maybe she is just a collector of Chanel. I doubt it. I doubt. And the Virginie product was really good, I think. But it has created a new life for Chanel, a new era for Chanel. I think the book itself, my guess, is that it will be read relative. I don't know. It depends. I would love to know more about the Wertheimers and their process. And Bruno Pavlovsky, who is the president of Chanel Fashion, his process and his relationship with Karl Lagerfeld, he speaks to the press all the time.
1:14:15So you kind of have an understanding. I hope she's able to give a little bit of insight into how the family has managed the business because I do think I mean, this is a business that should be shot should be taught in business like Harvard should have a course on Chanel itself, especially after this last phase because it's from it's been owned by the same family for decade, I think like 100 years like it's the business story of fashion is really yes, it's the Arno. and it's Bernard Arnault and LVMH of the modern era. But the reason all of this exists is because of Chanel. And so I hope that there's insight into that and I will definitely be buying it and using Google Translate to help me parse through.
1:15:02But I think my guess is that it'll be read widely enough in France where people still read books and engage quite a bit in this kind of... Like the thing about fashion is it's a part of French culture. It's like if there's a big movie, there's a book about Chinatown comes out. I read that because I'm interested in Chinatown and movie making. And I like that writer. It's the same kind of thing here where in America, I don't think there's as much interest in who the designer of Chanel is really, but there is interest in Chanel, the brand, whereas in France, Like this is a fabric of their society, part of the fabric of their society and their culture.
1:15:46So like, I do think it will be read. I'd also just depends on what she says. I just can't imagine that it's going to be that dramatic. We'll see. If it was going to be that dramatic, I think there would be more conversation around it because I only heard about it this past week. And and I think WWD will probably run one short item on it and act like it's not a big deal. it would be interesting for her to do like a New York Times story with Vanessa Friedman. Like if I were her, that's what I would be going for. But maybe she feels like she's a shy person. Maybe she's like, I want to just be on my own.
1:16:22This is the mediated. Yeah. Yeah. So we'll see. But it's fascinating stuff. Amanda, I want you to get something from Chanel. I know. And a few months ago, you told me that, or I think you said on this wonderful podcast, which I listened to that the the move is to go to the lesser trafficked European cities and so I had been thinking like am I going to go to the Chanel in Venice I don't you know the I've only walked by one which I think is like it's more the accessories boutique I don't know how much clothing they had and then I saw a 10 year old in there through the window and I was like I don't really think that this is going to be my experience she's with her family you know and you know children deserve the world but I was kind of like I don't know if this is my my Chanel uh so I haven't been in yet but maybe someday I think you should just walk through I don't know and then you can report back okay I think I might go buy some I might go to Laguna B instead and buy some Murano glass to take home that's yeah that's that's more responsible and honestly you we can get you can get Chanel somewhere else but I do want you to have something someday.
1:17:34We'll figure out what the right channel is. It's a goal. It's something to work towards. Yeah. Amanda Epic, International Moms Night Out. Thank you for this wonderful experience. Thank you. Thank you to Dries Van Noten. Thank you to Venezia and the Regatta and your friends for getting you home. Yeah. Thank you to everyone. And I'll talk to you soon. Yeah. Have a great rest of your trip. Thank you. Thank you for having me. Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. The show is produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to Puck co-founder John Kelly, executive editor Ben Landy, producer Maya Tribbett, and director of editorial operations Gabby Grossman.
1:18:17An additional thanks to the team at Odyssey, Kelly Turner and Bob Tabador.
From the publisher
Lauren’s guest is The Ringer’s Amanda Dobbins, host of Jam Session and Fashion People. They discuss the dynamics of film festivals, fashion on and off the red carpets, their experience at the premiere of Primetime, their tour of the Fondazione Dries Van Noten’s first exhibit, “The Only True Protest Is Beauty,” with Dries himself, Virginie Viard’s Chanel tell-all, and lots more. Plus, Alastair McKimm joins Lauren to discuss the launch of Prototype, his new magazine and platform. They chat Prototype contributor Tom Sachs’ homemade Chanel store on Centre Street, the genius of Peter Miles, making a Pierre Castignola chair, zines, how Alastair put together Issue Zero’s contributor and story list, and even more.
