Ivan Ramen: New York's Best Ramen Restaurant, Conquering Tokyo, Heartbreak, Japanese Literature & Art

16 Mar 2026 · 1 h 40 min · 47 chapters

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Podcast Summary: HUNGRY Episode - Ivan Ramen: New York's Best Ramen Restaurant, Conquering Tokyo, Heartbreak, Japanese Literature & Art

Episode Overview In this episode of HUNGRY, host Dan interviews Ivan Orkin, the founder of Ivan Ramen, who shares his journey from a New York kid to a revered ramen chef in Tokyo. The episode dives into Ivan's experiences in the culinary world, the complexities of running restaurants in different cities, and the creative process behind ramen.

Key Themes & Discussions

Ivan's Journey

  • Background: Ivan Orkin is a Jewish New Yorker who moved to Tokyo, where he opened a ramen shop against the odds.
  • Ramen Education: Taught himself the art of ramen, opening his first shop in Japan with limited funds and overcoming challenges related to being a foreigner in Japan’s culinary scene.

Creative Process and Ramen Philosophy

  • Ramen as Art: Emphasizes that ramen is a highly creative dish within Japanese cuisine, arguing that "authentic" is often a misleading term.
  • Breaking Rules: Discusses the importance of breaking culinary rules and finding one’s own voice in cooking.
  • Ingredients and Techniques: Highlights the importance of using quality ingredients, the right fat for broth, and the process of noodle-making.

Running Restaurants Across Different Cities

  • Challenges: Talks about the differences between running businesses in Tokyo, New York, and Las Vegas, including the balance of creativity with the economics of the hospitality industry.
  • Destination Dining vs. Foot Traffic: Discusses the importance of each concept for business success.

Personal Insights

  • Stubbornness and Identity: Reflects on how his personal background shapes his culinary journey and business decisions.
  • Heartbreak and Resilience: Shares his experiences with loss and the importance of family support during tough times.

Key Takeaways

  • Business Strategy: Stresses the importance of having a solid business plan, understanding your target market, and being adaptable to change.
  • Customer Experience: Advocates for understanding and valuing the customer experience, emphasizing that the customer isn't always "right," but their experience matters.

Notable Quotes

  • "Chefs aren't artists; chefs are ditch diggers."
  • "Creating a good ramen dish involves harmony and balance between fat, broth, and noodles."
  • "If you're a business owner, you need to make money; that's just the end of the day."

Show Menu

  • 00:00:00 - Intro
  • 00:02:08 - Japanese Literature and Murakami
  • 00:11:05 - The Genesis of Ivan Ramen
  • 00:25:33 - What Makes a Good Ramen?
  • 01:06:08 - What Most Restaurant Business Plans Miss
  • 01:12:21 - Best Sandwiches in NYC
  • 01:17:16 - Ivan on British Tea (PG Tips vs. Fancy Tea)

Conclusion The episode encapsulates Ivan Orkin's passion for ramen, the cultural nuances of dining, and the entrepreneurial spirit required in the food industry. His insights provide valuable lessons for aspiring restaurateurs and food enthusiasts alike.

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Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

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The Art of Ramen

0:45 to 2:10

Exploring the nuances and secrets of making ramen in Japan.

“When I was a young man in Japan, I'd say I did that all the time and pissed people off.”

Cultural Comparisons: London and New York

2:10 to 4:26

A dialogue comparing the cultural differences between London and New York.

“Fucking creepy, but really, like, his writing's so lurid, you know, in your face.”

Japanese Literature: Influences and Favorites

4:26 to 6:30

Discussion on favorite Japanese authors and their impact on personal insights.

“sort of very hyperactive, and the idea of sitting still and writing really long papers and reading lots and lots and lots of long books was a little daunting for me.”

Education and Japanese Language

6:30 to 8:46

Reflecting on the ease of studying Japanese and the richness of its vocabulary.

“I like the way of sort of being a little more peaceful and respecting each other's space, which I learned to do effortlessly over the years.”

First Impressions of Japan

8:46 to 11:34

Sharing personal experiences and observations upon visiting Japan for the first time.

“Like you said, you studied that at a university college.”

Opening a Ramen Shop

11:34 to 12:16

The journey and challenges of opening a ramen shop in Japan.

“You need a special, you know, you need a special system.”

Hospitality Lessons from Lutece

12:16 to 14:03

Insights gained from working in a renowned restaurant and their application to ramen.

“I mean, you see all different colored faces in businesses, and you see all kinds of people doing stuff.”

Creating a Friendly Ramen Experience

14:03 to 15:00

Discover how Ivan Ramen aimed to create a welcoming atmosphere in his restaurant.

“Well, you know, when I was going to ramen shops in Japan, I found a lot of them to be sort of a little bit unfriendly, a little bit down and dirty.”

Navigating Personal Loss

15:01 to 17:48

Ivan shares his experiences of coping with the loss of his first wife and caring for their son.

“And it was a four-star restaurant and it was just legendary, but he was still, even if you were a young couple, he was still very friendly and nice to you.”

The Importance of Assertiveness in Business

17:49 to 19:30

Learn why having a strong attitude is crucial in the restaurant industry.

“now he's 30 when he was you know two it was hard yeah of course yeah and would you how would you sort of detail that to Isaac at the time when he's a two-year-old saying where's mommy like how would you navigate that?”
Show all 47 chapters

Understanding Lease Agreements

19:31 to 21:28

Ivan emphasizes the significance of having a good lease agreement in running a restaurant.

“If you sign a bad lease and you get squeezed, it's because you're an idiot and signed a bad lease.”

Learning from Business Mistakes

21:29 to 22:30

Explore the importance of documenting mistakes to prevent future errors in business.

“And then, you know, landlord and say, no, I won't do that.”

The Art vs. Craft of Cooking

22:31 to 24:35

Ivan discusses the distinction between chefs as artists versus tradesmen in the culinary world.

“We've had that with some of our sort of sponsorship deals in the past is I've sort of just given away too much.”

The Building Blocks of Ramen

24:36 to 28:00

Learn about the essential components that make up great ramen and Ivan's approach to crafting it.

“Well, I mean, I think the building blocks of ramen are all relatively similar, right?”

Cultural Nuances: Sharing and Communication in Japan

28:00 to 29:25

Explore how cultural differences shape communication and behavior in Japan.

“And I mean, to me, people would say they don't share and I'd be like, but that's stupid, man.”

The Role of Style and Design in Ramen Shops

29:25 to 30:55

Discover the importance of aesthetic and design in creating a ramen brand.

“What, I think that's definitely a unique Japanese style, obviously.”

Cleanliness and the Ramen Experience

30:55 to 34:27

Learn about the unique cleanliness standards and the vibe of ramen shops.

“So it was a super exciting opportunity to have a restaurant, you know.”

Group Culture vs. Individualism in Japan

34:27 to 36:26

Understand the balance between group harmony and individual expression in Japan.

“There's a kind of, I know you talked kind of briefly, you don't really share your emotions.”

Navigating Japanese Social Norms as a Foreigner

36:26 to 38:19

Insights on how to adjust to Japanese social norms and the gaijin experience.

“So every once in a while we would call it pulling the gaijin card and every once in And so the gaijin card is?”

Evolving Smoking Culture and Its Impact

38:19 to 39:27

Examine the shift in smoking culture in Japan and its implications.

The Changing Landscape of Food in Tokyo

39:27 to 41:29

Explore how Tokyo's culinary scene has evolved into an international hub.

“I mean, nothing like London or New York.”

New York Pizza: A Culinary Journey

41:29 to 42:00

Delve into the diverse pizza culture of New York and personal favorites.

“really yeah so what's some of your favourite places in New York um I love Finney.”

Exploring New York's Pizza Scene

42:00 to 44:24

Discover the evolving landscape of pizza in New York and its unique characteristics.

The Art of the Grandma Pie

44:24 to 46:28

Learn about the distinctive grandma pie and what makes it special.

“And, I mean, I owned a really successful pizzeria.”

Transitioning to Ramen Culture

46:28 to 48:38

Insights into the evolution of the ramen scene and personal culinary experiences.

“So I feel like ramen's, again, we're probably four or five years behind you.”

The Importance of Business in Food

48:38 to 50:57

Understand the essential balance between culinary artistry and business acumen.

“I said, make your own food, keep the noodle recipe or tweak some things but make it yours with your name, with your shop and then people will really respect you and they'll come.”

Scaling Culinary Businesses

50:57 to 53:26

Discussion on the challenges and strategies for scaling a food business successfully.

“I'm gonna make this dish and I don't care, you know, the cost of bones for the soup, it's like triple what it should, but I don't care because it's gonna be delicious and I was like, I'm gonna be like, you're an idiot.”

The Unique Challenges of Different Locations

53:26 to 55:48

Explore the different dynamics of running restaurants in New York versus Vegas.

“you know, the person that's buying your business is, is contractually obligated to do what you tell them to do.”

The Genesis of Ramen

55:48 to 57:29

An exploration of the origins and evolution of ramen in Japanese cuisine.

“In terms of the genesis of ramen, again, I watched videos online of what we did with Dave Chang I thought was fascinating.”

Cultural Significance of Anime

57:30 to 58:52

Explore the role of anime and manga in Japanese culture and personal experiences with them.

“I don't know, what is the, like, just all these, all these, it's almost the montage of all these beautiful things from Japan.”

Navigating Business Fear

58:53 to 1:01:23

Discuss the fears and challenges in the hospitality industry and effective strategies to overcome them.

“maybe it suggests something a little more sophisticated.”

Challenges for Small Businesses

1:01:24 to 1:04:21

Examine the difficulties small businesses face, particularly in the restaurant industry, and the impact of government policies.

Innovative Ramen Creations

1:04:22 to 1:09:05

Discover how creativity and experimentation can redefine traditional ramen and dining experiences.

“either went to culinary school or trained in good restaurants, you would never think of cutting vegetables on a cutting board where there was raw meat before.”

Adapting Dishes for Local Tastes

1:09:06 to 1:10:03

Learn about the approach of adapting dishes to local preferences while maintaining authenticity.

Exploring Pastrami and Salt Beef

1:10:03 to 1:12:09

The discussion revolves around the challenges of sourcing pastrami in New York and the delightful experience of trying salt beef.

“And the bread was like a really fresh, delicious, aromatic rye bread.”

Sandwich Recommendations in NYC

1:12:10 to 1:14:30

Highlighting various sandwich spots in New York, including Katz's Deli and S & P Lunch, and the unique offerings at each.

“There's a couple of different shops that are famous, but those are really, really good.”

Celery Soda and Unique Beverages

1:14:31 to 1:16:47

A discussion about the unique experience of drinking celery soda and other interesting beverages in New York deli culture.

“and have that and have some French fries or a celery soda.”

The Appeal of Japanese Literature

1:16:48 to 1:19:15

The conversation shifts to the impact of Japanese literature on the guest, discussing favorite books and authors.

“I think it just went right in the garbage.”

Mentorship and Culinary Philosophy

1:19:16 to 1:23:46

Ivan shares his mentorship experiences and the principles he values in running a restaurant.

“If you were to do like a book on like what I think about when I think about ramen, and this could be tenuous and nebulous, so fuck it off if you want to, what does that teach you?”

The Importance of Customer Experience

1:24:00 to 1:25:14

Learn why providing a great experience is essential in the restaurant industry.

“It's about what the customer's going to go and tell their friends, how they're spending their hard-earned cash here.”

Silent Irritants in Dining

1:25:14 to 1:27:29

Discover common annoyances in restaurants and how they affect the dining experience.

“But, you know, I think if you drink out of a water glass that feels really good in your hand, you might notice and say, well, what a thoughtful choice.”

Creating Memorable Dining Moments

1:27:29 to 1:30:15

Explore how small gestures can enhance customer satisfaction in restaurants.

“And, you know, some people don't really know much about ramen.”

Ordering Preferences and Trends

1:30:15 to 1:32:40

Understand different attitudes towards ordering food in restaurants.

“And Scotty's for a half of a scallop chicken sandwich.”

Breakfast Preferences: English vs. American

1:32:40 to 1:35:35

Delve into the differences and preferences between English and American breakfast.

“I've been there many times, but I've sort of, I've had to give up that.”

Top Restaurant Recommendations in New York

1:35:35 to 1:37:42

Get insider tips on the best places to eat in New York City.

“That one's an old school French place that they revamped.”

The Customer's Always Right?

1:37:42 to 1:38:00

Explore the controversial idea of whether the customer is always right in the dining experience.

Customer Entitlement and Restaurant Experience

1:38:00 to 1:39:00

Explore the balance between customer expectations and restaurant standards.

“that most people would disagree with you on one truth?”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:00New York just doesn't have good pizza anymore. The best Neapolitan pizziolas are all in Japan now. If you ask what's the real difference between a good slice and a bad slice in New York, it's the. There's so many different ways to make money nowadays. Making delicious food is the easy part. They'll say Ray Kroc screwed them out of their business. He may have, but he knew how to scale. That's just business. My advice on that is have a good. You're out of good. You're anyway. I meet too many people who fancy themselves artists, and I think that's silly. Chefs aren't artists, chefs are f***ing ditch diggers, man.

0:30Art doesn't put food on the table. With ramen, there's not really any rules, I think you said. No, it's just endless ways. And in Japan, if you ask them, they won't tell you. It's always a big secret. Every once in a while, we would call it pulling the gaijin card. Gaijin card is... I'm f*** off, pal, I'm not doing it. When I was a young man in Japan, I'd say I did that all the time and pissed people off. So English breakfast, American breakfast? English breakfast every f***ing time. Really? It's genius.

1:02How do you like London compared to New York? I like them both. Yeah? Both really great. The difference, like what do you see as the differences? I don't know, they're totally different. You guys are British and we're American. Yeah. Yeah, there's, what's it? I think it's an Oscar Wilde quote, which is we're two nations divided by the same language. Yeah, yeah. Which I think is so true. It's so bang on the money. um but yeah thanks for doing this sure it's super relaxed conversation will ebb and flow okay i really want to get into obviously japan sure um i went there it was weird i was saying that i went in 2019 went to your ramen place in new york and then in the september i went to japan for the world cup rugby world cup and i was like it's blown away so now we're doing this a few years later it feels like a full circle thing um you studied japanese yes at uni or college did you do japanese literature as well what was that i studied everything yeah okay literature history yeah yeah yeah okay amazing yeah because that's some of the stuff i want to get into right like murakami is one of my favorite writers yeah yeah there's two there's i'm much older than him well actually i'm not much older he's a little older than i am but his writing yeah became well known after i was in college because i don't think i don't think his first book came out until 84 yes or 80 maybe anyway he wasn't a renowned writer i think until the 90s really yeah he became i read i read the old writers i read mishima and yes you know and uh tanazaki and uh what was i mean we can just roll straight in like what were some of those um because because there's two there's two miracle marikamis is the root um yeah ryuker murakami who writes sort of horror.

2:45Mate, yes. His book is really interesting. In the Miso Soup. Yes, I read that. It's like a really creepy. Fucking creepy, but really, like, his writing's so lurid, you know, in your face. But, yeah, what were some of the ones you were reading? So, when you were, it was just, Well, I mean, my thesis was on the Temple of the Golden Pavilion by Mishima. Yeah. About a monk acolyte who goes crazy and burns down the temple. and he was a real character. He was a Japanese nationalist and was very into sort of the old style of Japan. Sweet. And he ended up committing ritual suicide. Really? Yeah. Wow. But I read it in college.

3:37I read all those. Yeah. What were some of the big learnings you took from that whole sort of, not encyclopedia, but that kind of, yeah, library of books you're reading? I wonder if I learned anything, to tell you the truth. Interesting. I think I liked them. Yeah. And I read them all, and I've always been a big book person. Yeah. I've read a real lot since I was a kid. Yeah. And I didn't really, I studied Japanese because it was easy. Japanese was easy? Japanese was easy. Because? It was an easy major. Really? Yeah, the requirements were super slim. Really? Yeah. I wanted to major in English or history, but the requirements were pretty sick.

4:19You had to read a dozen books that were 1 ,000 pages, 20 to 50-page papers, and it was just sort of very hyperactive, and the idea of sitting still and writing really long papers and reading lots and lots and lots of long books was a little daunting for me. I'm not kidding. I'm sure that was that's only half the story um I was very uh I really did enjoy Japanese uh language and I mean I still to this day I love speaking Japanese I mean I'm very interested in it and always learning more because what they've again I've interviewed someone who lit a lot of time in Japan a couple years ago who's got a brand over here and she was saying the Japanese have words for I think they've got like correct me if I'm wrong I'm not the expert here but they may have a word for walking through the woods when the bluebells are blossoming.

5:09I think they've got some words that we don't even, can't even conceive in that English language. Well, they have words also that describe a lot of things in one word, whereas in English we use a lot of words to explain something, whereas in Japanese you might have just one word or one phrase to explain something much broader. What would some of those be? Like, is there any specific examples? I don't know. I'll think about it. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Interesting. Yeah, they have like one word which which opens up so much the Yeah, we'll roll straight into this. So you're reading all this stuff at college You're reading all this, you know, Japanese literature poetry History when you land in Japan, what were the surprising things you have all this?

5:56You're in the States reading all this stuff. What are the things that shocked you when you actually got there? Um, it was so clean Okay, that was the thing that yeah made me it was very clean and very organized Yeah, I seem to really like that. So I like how Structured everything is there everything everybody waits in line. Everything is orderly Everybody respects each other's space And even though I'm a New Yorker New York's almost opposite And even though I can be that way in New York very easily and I can be a tough guy I can be I can push my way through I can I can do that I think I prefer the Japanese way.

6:34Right. I like the way of sort of being a little more peaceful and respecting each other's space, which I learned to do effortlessly over the years. And did you go straight into Tokyo or did you... I've always been a Tokyo guy from day one. Because what is the difference between the cities? I know you've got so... They're all really different. Yeah. They're all really different. I mean, the main ones people talk about is, you know, Tokyo and Osaka and that are really Kansai which is you know where Kyoto and Osaka is Kanto which is where Tokyo is yeah they're very very different and each people who live in those areas talk about their you know that they're different Osaka is much more like the west and people are much more comfortable being honest and uh really yeah they're a little more intense and a little louder and a little more uh comfortable speaking their mind where I think Tokyo is a little more reserved and a little bit different.

7:33Would you say that Osaka's closer to New York then in that regard? Well, yeah, a little bit. Interesting. Still very different, but... Yeah, of course, yeah, yeah. But I think that... Interesting. Yes. And then, so I went to Kyoto, which I thought was super fascinating. Yeah, I'm a big fan. Yeah, how's that sort of perceived in Japan versus the other two cities? Is that like a... Yeah, I mean, Kyoto's been an important city for culture and for tourism for thousands of years. Yeah. So it's, you know, I mean, people in Asia in general, you know, they've had a much longer history than we've even even England, which go, you know, you can go way back.

8:13And then and then where England sort of stops, you can then continue with Romans. And, you know, there's a really long history of in the West here. But even when you say it's a long history, it's I don't know, it's in 2000 years, I suppose. But, you know, when you talk about civilized, maybe it's 500 or less. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Whereas, you know, in Asia, I think it was more civilized than in the West for a longer period of time. Wow. And so what are some of those, if you do mind going into the history of that, because I find it endlessly fascinating. Like you said, you studied that at a university college.

8:49What were some of the big learnings you took from that period? Yeah, I mean, I just, I mean, I learned the history. It was always intriguing the way Japan was set up, especially that last 400 or 500 years. The sort of ending of Samurai and sort of slowly but surely kind of... It's never been westernized, but I think the power was slowly but surely kind of taken by one person. And the whole country was sort of standardized. and... Didn't they have, what was the, when they isolated it off, what was that called? The Suku period or something? I'm going to, yeah, butcher this. When they closed. Yeah, what was the reason for doing that?

9:38Do you know? What do you mean? The West is poison? Yeah, yeah. Yeah, I understand that. But how did they actually enforce that? Was that through... I think probably because at that time there weren't that many Westerners able to come with big boats with cannons, right? Yes, yeah, yeah. I think Japan was officially opened when enough Westerners came with enough big boats, with enough big guns. Yeah. And, you know, when there was one boat or three boats, you know, the Japanese were strong enough to say, we'll kill you all. But if there's 20 boats, then it's harder to do that. And I think, you know, when you look at the history of the West taking over different indigenous cultures, it's because we had gunpowder and they didn't.

10:21Yeah. To simplify it. yeah yeah yeah of course yeah i think so i think i think back in the you know uh in the in the 1600s when they pushed against the west yeah opening it up uh they were in a position to fight back okay right now yeah i don't and i think i think by when perry came i think it was already you know it was already yeah it's too hard for them to fight back the so so you're in you get to japan and i've watched your chef's table um documentary which i think is astoundingly um wonderful talk me about the sort of the first step you took to actually get the first um your first place open um well i mean i i just sort of decided to open a ramen shop it took about nine months to find a location nine months or so yeah to find a location i mean opening a ramen shop was relatively easy i mean it's you know it's just a it's just a room with a with a cement floor and a drain in the middle i mean it's not you know the i didn't you don't need an ansel system you don't yeah you don't need an hvac you know you don't really i mean i had a i had a big metal box with a fan yeah that's the hood yeah here in london or new york you'd never get away with it Oh, really?

11:38Oh, yeah. Interesting. You need a special, you know, you need a special system. But, and I'm sure if you open, want to open in a, in the middle, in the heart of Tokyo in an office building, I'm sure there's. Ways. I was just in an old, old building. Yeah. And I was in the suburbs. Yeah. So I don't think it mattered as much. So it was, you know, it was, it was probably 60,$70 ,000 to open my first ramen shop. Wow. so which is and then what were you doing to get like i know you because i've seen documentary i've watched you online the way what were you doing to get people in i know you like create this amazing product was it literally just the product and then what else was well we got buzz i mean we we we uh we got the the sort of number one ramen writer to come in and he ate and really liked the food so he wrote about the shop and said it was good yeah and so you know i mean listen i mean uh now in 2025, a bunch of white dudes running around Japan is just now normal.

12:40Yes. It's just not a big deal. I mean, you see all different colored faces in businesses, and you see all kinds of people doing stuff. And when I was there, you know, you couldn't just walk into a ramen shop and say, oh, can I have a job? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Because they would just look at you like you're crazy. Wow. Um, and, uh, and plus I didn't want to, I wasn't going to work in a ramen shop for two years to learn how to make ramen. I didn't think I needed to make ramen. So, uh, I just didn't really want to ask. So I didn't know anybody well enough to say, could you just teach me a little bit about ramen, which, you know, when I started the shop, I was already cooking for 15 years.

13:18I assumed that I needed some tips and some help in understanding. Um, I didn't really think I needed to apprentice for two or three years to make ramen. I mean, I basically taught myself to make ramen in a couple of months. Well, because that's what I think, because the name just gave me where you worked, that restaurant in New York, because it's an L, I think. Lutes. Lutes, yeah. So I think I said you, that's where you learned like the hospitality. It was more than just cooking. What were some of the principles you took from that time, that period of your life? Less so about the cooking, but more the hospitality and that sort of, That part that when you went to Japan and opened up your place, you kind of imbued that on the customers.

14:03Well, you know, when I was going to ramen shops in Japan, I found a lot of them to be sort of a little bit unfriendly, a little bit down and dirty. You know, maybe like, you know, taking your little kids to a chip shop somewhere, you know, where, you know, they don't make a ton of money if you don't order food. And they would sort of, you know, roll their eyes at coming in with just a bunch of kids. and wasn't always that friendly and wasn't always that clean. And so I really wanted to have a clean and friendly shop for children and women and anybody who came in. I mean, the chef I worked with at Lutece, you know, was really famous for his food, but he was also really nice to all the guests.

14:43And he was famous for walking around the dining room and talking to everybody. And so it made a big impression on me. Yeah. the way he would comport himself, even though at the time, you know, he was one of the most famous chefs in the world. I mean, it was really, really successful and really famous. And it was a four-star restaurant and it was just legendary, but he was still, even if you were a young couple, he was still very friendly and nice to you. He'd be there. He was there every single day for 30 years. He was in the kitchen every single day. Yeah. He didn't take one day off in 30 years.

15:20Yeah. What other principles did you learn from him, do you think, in terms of hospitality? Well, yeah, the fact that he always had a smile. He was always very welcoming. He was, you know, he had hands on to see what was going on. And it was a very regal restaurant. But like I said, you know, he would have the, you know, the president of France would be eating there. But there would also be a kid who just graduated college with his girlfriend. Yes. And so, you know. Quite an eagoless Harry. And he was nice to everybody. Interesting. Yeah. I want to talk and I'll ask this delicately we don't have to go here but I think in the documentary when you talk about uh you had your son Isaac yeah was that who you just on the phone yeah yeah wow uh did you say he's almost 30 now yeah that's not yeah yeah um and that period when you lost your first wife yeah and a lot of people listen to this and there's everyone's going through something hard right I'd love to know how you navigated that and because in the documentary where you kind of get like a, you know, kind of the minute, but like if you could sink into that and how did you navigate and get through that really hard period?

16:23Because I feel like there's that moment when it's just you and Isaac and you're like, what the fuck can we do now, you know? Yeah, well, I mean, I was very lucky. I lived in Brooklyn and my mom and dad lived three blocks away. Yeah. And so, you know, I had someone who could hang out with when things were hard or just hang out with my family. and I have a big family and they were all super supportive. I have a lot of friends who were also super helpful. Had a nanny and at the time, so she was also, I wasn't all of a sudden completely left alone. Yeah. I'm also just a real, I was always dialed in on being a dad.

17:04So, I mean, and always been pretty good at being one. So, you know, very comfortable cleaning or cooking or doing whatever needs to be done. Yeah. So I know how to do it. So, I mean, even though my wife died, it wasn't like I was, you know, always out with the guys playing golf and didn't know what to do with a child. I mean, I had helped to take care of my kids. So, yeah, I think. And and and, you know, when she died, the only thing I felt I had to do was take care of her son. And so I was very committed. I think I felt like part of my connection to her absence was this this desire to make sure that I kept my promise to her when she was dying that I would take care of the kid yeah so you know to me it was uh I mean we were very close and and we we got along great but yeah I was I mean it's now he's 30 when he was you know two it was hard yeah of course yeah and would you how would you sort of detail that to Isaac at the time when he's a two-year-old saying where's mommy like how would you navigate that?

18:05He was too young to understand. Right, okay. He grew up, you know, he unfortunately doesn't have a great memory of her, but, you know, we have lots of pictures and we've told lots of stories. Yeah. Yeah. That's super, I appreciate you being open with that. The one thing I wanted to ask you, and I loved it, I think it's, is it the opening of Dr. Minch when you say, I've got a fuck you kind of attitude? how do you think that's vital in business why is that important um well you know people take advantage of you so i i think you have to be comfortable uh not getting pushed around and uh speaking up for yourself and and getting what you need to get done and uh so but i've been that way with everything and everybody you know yes yeah yeah just in that i once i know what i want to do I kind of move and do it.

18:57And if someone sort of gets in my way, I either push them out of the way or step around depending on the situation. Have there been any examples of that? So many, yeah. Any you can detail? No, it's just sort of being honest with people when you have a problem with the landlord or with a vendor and they're not supporting you the way you think you should. you know yeah yeah being being comfortable telling them you know what you're not happy with and and trying to move the needle because i've got a lot of friends who are opening restaurants have restaurants opening restaurants and that's one of the things they have the landlord is they're like they feel like they're just getting squeezed right and well my advice on that is have a good lease yeah yeah without a good lease you're fucked anyway it doesn't matter because you're you know that that's that's the whole thing you learn early on yeah uh contracts are made to be written well or that when you have problems, you're covered.

19:55If you sign a bad lease and you get squeezed, it's because you're an idiot and signed a bad lease. I can't help you with that. I have a really good lease. Really? Yes. What makes up a good lease? Just the terms, you know, what the rent is, what the taxes are, what you're responsible for. Yeah. But then also, you know, I mean, unfortunately, being a business owner is really hard because even the best lease in the world, a landlord's not going to say, hey, man, I'll pay for everything. don't worry about it. I mean, they're just not. It's, you're leasing their property, you have to take care of it.

20:27If there's a, something breaks or is damaged, and that's your fault, then you have to take care of it. And you have to pay your taxes, and you have to pay your rent, and you know, you have to, can't be so noisy, and you can't, you know, spill ucky stuff in front of the restaurant, or have really bad smells. I mean, you're, it's just, you know, and you're a member of the community in the neighborhood. So it's, you know, I mean, there's a difference between complaining and what's fair is fair so I and I also think that you know a lot of times you get into business and then you realize you know you know I should have asked for this or I should have asked for that and the more you do business the more you you make a good plan I mean I talk to people who just want to start a business without much of a plan and you need a plan because plans help you think of all those questions you need to ask so that you don't just make an agreement or just sign something or whatever you want to you want to make a good a good deal so that you know you're not screwed later on because like i said some people complain you're like well you're just a baby yeah yeah yeah yeah and you made a stupid deal and that and that and now you're sour got sour grapes on you know you got yeah yeah you got to be responsible and uh um you know sometimes when we make mistakes here at ivan rama we just say uh you know you're really sure i should have thought of that you know let's and we keep notes We have a whole file of things to revisit when we do our next business or, you know, talk to the next landlord so that you're ready to, because you got to remember.

21:55And then, you know, landlord and say, no, I won't do that. And you can say, you know what, then I think I'm going to pass on this location. Thank you. Yes. And you go to the next one. Yes. Or you say, you know what, I really love this location. I don't really want to pay for that, but let's pay for it anyway, because this is great. But, you know, in business, having all that stuff so you're actually making decisions based on the obstacles you see you might have and you just accept it because you really want to do something, that's also fine. I love the idea of having almost like a book of all the things that have gone wrong.

22:24Yeah. Because it helps you. I think wisdom is prevention. Well, the only dumb thing is to do the same mistake twice. Exactly. Yeah. I think I need that. We've had that with some of our sort of sponsorship deals in the past is I've sort of just given away too much. as we go to renew them with this is it's like, I think I need to probably document, oh, that's where I fucked up. Yeah. Because I think it's so easy just to aimlessly go through things. And it doesn't mean you're stupid either. Yeah. You know, when you start a business, I mean, it's always good to have a mentor or to have someone who's successful at business who's advising you and helping you.

22:57You know, a lot of companies have a board with people on it that know so they can warn you or advise you what to look for and what to think about. But, you know, it's a lot of money to not pay attention yes so a lot of people will listen to this and they would love to have a restaurant of your success a brand of your success what are some of those big mistakes if you were to look through that kind of your book which I think is a genius piece of wisdom that you're like right just avoid that I know we've talked about the lease but are there any other ones that could be team related it could be anything but I'd love to know what some of those are Ivan um yeah everything so you're setting up your kitchen you know you might you might forget to have a piece of equipment that would be really helpful and so you remember all you next time we should really have a sink here instead of there i don't know why we ever put that there that was stupid or or never get a restaurant with such steep stairs again it's really hard to go up and down or you know or or you know we should have had two walk-ins not one walk-in and or you know if we had more space then we could have done more delivery and we could have made more money and and you know or there's you know so it's it's all these things there's so many different ways to make money nowadays you know just serving people in your dining room sometimes you can do delivery stuff you can do takeaway stuff there's a lot of things you can do there's catering but if you don't have space then you can't do it so you have to decide can you pay the rent for the little bit of bigger space and then can you get more business to cover that rent and yeah you know uh i meet too many people who fancy themselves artists and i think that's silly unpack that more because chefs aren't artists chefs are fucking ditch diggers man it's just so interesting you know so no no because it's like i i interview a lot of chefs right and some go it is art some say we are but what did you say um i think we might agree that art doesn't put food on the table yes yeah no no so a lot of people um there's almost like there's there's two camps it's either the the artist right or it's just that we're tradesmen right we learned a craft it's a tradesman we know how to put the blocks of things together yeah that's your food yeah bang done right super interesting how what what would you say um with with the like what are the building blocks of the great ramen like your specific ramen how is yours different from everyone else?

25:17Well, I mean, I think the building blocks of ramen are all relatively similar, right? Sure. All the ramen has a tare, which is sort of a seasoning sauce, and fat, and broth, and noodles, and toppings. When they're made properly, the fatty broth sticks to the noodles, so when you slurp the noodles, you add some flavor on the noodles, and it doesn't slide off the noodles. There feels to be a bit of a harmony and a balance to the bowl, so it really uh it has as the fat is what is that that's really important yeah yeah okay then you have to make a noodle that will stick to that type of fat some yeah some noodles just don't work in some ramen bowls it's just ramen dishes sometimes so you have to tweak one or the other you tweak the broth with this fat and the tate or fat then you tweak the noodle a lot of times they don't they don't automatically go together perfectly you have to play around with it okay with you and then your unique how did you find your edge because i know i made my own noodles so it was easy to you know keep making noodles until i got the right one um so i often do that but sometimes i would make a noodle i really liked and then i would have to work on the broth right seasoning or vice versa yeah every once in a while i would just make a noodle make a broth and try it and it would work great and it would be nice but a lot of times it didn't and you'd have to keep playing around until it got until it was right yeah and with the um with the i think i read somewhere you said why you liked well in japanese um you know cuisine a lot of it is very regimented so you know sushi i think what i learned when i was there is like there's a lot of specialization right so you go it's like a sushi place i remember vividly going to this place that like kind of just did katsu and it was that was the only things you could get um and correct me wrong but i think you said like it's very um kind of regimented but with ramen it can kind of go there's not really any rules i think you said no there's not really any rules i mean i think there are there's not no there's no there's nothing in stone okay it's just endless ways and in japan people don't really talk about what they do and if you ask them they won't tell you so it's uh changing a little bit but but it's always a big secret wait so sorry say that again so in the west they share so if you go to quality meat and you eat something and you say that was so good how'd you make it you'll say well you know i poach it in butter and then right at the end i pour some some some olive oil on top and i do this and i do that and yeah oh cool but in america a lot of times if you ask they'll just sort of look at you like that's so rude why are you asking me that that's a secret wow i think it's changing a little bit i think that the the western notion of pop-ups and collaboration has started to seep into japan and so i think and i think people understand more and more that that's actually kind of fun.

28:03And I mean, to me, people would say they don't share and I'd be like, but that's stupid, man. I could write 100 ,000 recipes. It doesn't matter. Someone could steal your recipe and he'd just make another recipe and that idiot only has one recipe. So, you know, it doesn't, you know. But I think that's more of a Western idea. Yeah. And I think that, you know, in Japan, they don't share as much. Interesting. What are some of the other kind of, not idiosyncrasies but from a western looking into Japan so they don't share what other kind of nuances have you got about the culture that you picked up yeah I don't know I've never worked in a restaurant in Japan so I don't know well I mean just not even not even in I don't know I mean like you said basically the quieter the better not being loud not sticking out not you know bothering people not you know keeping keeping a lower profile is helpful there yeah people don't you know if i talk in a very loud voice which i want to do my wife will always say you know you or my son too they'll be like dad you're screaming oh my god i'm not fucking screaming i'm just talking there like that's really loud i was like oh my god okay fine yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah you know there's a so there's a notion of not not really always keeping almost like a little bubble around you and you can do whatever you want in your tiny little bubble but you can't bother anybody outside of your bubble yeah and so it's always so for a guy like me from new york who's used to sort of banging around it that was probably the hardest thing for me to yeah yeah back um and clearly i'm still not great at it yeah yeah yeah i'm better at it that's fascinating and so then your your second wife um what's it is it mari yeah Did you say she's a, I think in the documentary, she's a stylist.

29:57Yep, yeah, it was. It was, okay, that was a while ago. What, I think that's definitely a unique Japanese style, obviously. What she taught you about that? About Japanese style? Yeah, as a notion. I don't know, but she hasn't really taught me anything about style. I mean, she helped. I mean, she's really the mastermind behind the brand. I mean, she's the one who was her idea to open the ramen shop. She helped to build the ramen shop. You know, her brother is a carpenter, and he helped build the shop. You know, I hired a construction company that also did. And then my friend, who's an artist, he did all the, you know, even the logo we still use is, you know, from my friend years ago.

30:48and everybody sort of, and we just sort of kept sort of trying to, you know, when I opened Ivan Ramen, I had always wanted a restaurant my whole life. Yeah. So it was a super exciting opportunity to have a restaurant, you know. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So I had sort of a real list of what I wanted. Yeah. And what was, you said she was so, like, she is the brand behind the scenes. Yeah. I know you talked about, like, the logo and stuff. How did her sort of, what else did she do? I think like when you see a really good restaurant, there's this sort of magic and alchemy behind the scenes that you can just feel when you go into a place, especially with a lot of the chefs I've interviewed over here.

31:29Could you go into that sort of magic behind the scenes and how that alchemy kind of... You know what? I mean, all those years ago, we wanted a shop that was simple and clean and neat. And, you know, as I said, I mean, you know, the Japanese can be seen as super neat and clean sometimes. and then other times, even though Japan always seems so clean and whatever, if you go to a neighborhood, down a dirty place, a lot of times, in my opinion, sorry, I'll be honest, they're fucking filthy. Filthy rags, dirty magazines stacked to the ceiling, piles of crap. I was trained in old school kitchens where everything had to be neat.

32:10I mean, if you wiped your hand on the apron, you got slapped. Yeah, yeah, yeah. very old school about staying neat and clean all the time. And I felt like a lot of ramen shops, they're not run by chefs. They're run by guys who opened ramen shop or a guy who worked in a ramen shop and liked it, so he opened his own ramen shop. They're not culinarians. They're not chefs. They didn't go to culinary school. They can't cook anything except for ramen. And so I think when I started, I didn't like that part of ramen. And so my shop was startlingly clean and bright. The walls were painted yellow and blue.

32:55Yeah. There were big giant speakers on the ceiling. There was, you know, a giant kanji for house-made noodles painted on the outside of the building. You know, things that, you know, I made a light box that in Japanese said, you know, we're making ramen right now. And, you know, and there was a, And there was a light box on the wall that said, eat ramen here with an arrow. It was all sort of very, and then I love diners. So I really fashioned the shop in Tokyo to be more of a diner. And, you know, the shop in New York is very much a diner. And I think this place is going to be a stainless steel counter.

33:36You know, there's sort of a couple of fun, iconic, you know, photos on the wall. it leans more in sort of a diner type eatery rather than something different. So I like, because I grew up, and I think of ramen shops as diners. Interesting. Yeah, you almost like put the two of your massive influences into one, and that's how you get this brand new, completely new concept. And the cleanliness thing is fascinating. Because when I was walking around, I was like, this place is just spotless. Yeah. But as you say, there's like an underbelly potentially where it's slightly darker. What are some of the darker parts to Japanese culture?

34:19Because I mean, I think when I was there, I could be completely wrong here, so please correct me. But I swear a lot of people live alone. There's a kind of, I know you talked kind of briefly, you don't really share your emotions. one thing I did notice which was kind of wild is the um you know how late people are coming back from work right like suited and booted with their briefcases I'm like it's like so late and then they were probably drinking but oh is that was that yeah was that what that is okay yeah yeah there's a lot of people walking past um yeah what are some of those from you that you picked up but we probably understand well I mean Japanese culture is different you know yeah it's definitely Like I said, the famous adage that if the nail is sticking up, you hammer it down.

35:04So you're really meant to really not stick out. Everything is a group effort. Individualism is not. In the UK and especially in America, individualism is lauded. It's really considered a great trait to be individualistic and have a very special, unique perception or something that people admire. whereas I think in Japan, that's less admirable. And working towards the better good of the team and the group or whatever is something that is more common culturally. Yeah. And what did you learn from your, when you were in Japan and you're kind of looking back on the States, did that give you a unique perspective on the American condition?

35:52I mean, like I said, I prefer the Japanese way for the most part. and then I get the gaijin card which means most of the time I can do what I want as long as I'm not an asshole and as long as I don't break the law or break the rules too hard and so if there was a my rule is to follow almost all rules in Japan and then every once in a while if there's something I don't want to do I just don't do it I love that and I'll just say I don't do that but you have to and I'll say I really don't So unless you want to cause a problem, why don't you just run along and leave me alone? So every once in a while we would call it pulling the gaijin card and every once in And so the gaijin card is?

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36:36The gaijin card is, fuck off pal, I'm not doing it. So every once in a while you just, you know. But like I said, when I was a young man in Japan, I'd say I did that all the time. Yes. And when I pissed people off. And when I moved back to Japan as a grown man, I think I sort of said to myself, you know, that's not really cool. You want to live in Japan. You got to follow the rules. You can't just ignore things. You have to. So, you know, nowadays, I would say I break the rules, you know, 5 % of the time or less. I mean, I really don't. Just every once in a while, you know, there's all kinds of rules.

37:14I mean, you know, when I. So what would be some of those? When I opened Ivan Ramen, I worked in this one street. and then everybody chipped in. We had to pay a fee every month to pay for like the electricity on this street that all the stores were on and for the sewage and the garbage removal and whatnot. And once a month, everybody would meet on a Wednesday afternoon. Everybody was closed on Wednesdays and once a month, everybody would meet on Wednesdays and you'd count money and go over the receipts and everything and then you'd cook a meal together and have a beer. Oh, wow. Yeah, yeah, yeah.

37:45So super collected. So I went to the first one and I said, This is my first and my last meeting. I will never, ever come again. They said, I have a young family. I am off one day a week. I work really hard. And the last people I want to see are you. So enough personal. Don't ever expect to see me again. I will never come again. I never went again. I went once. Yeah, I got along with those people. Great. We were really close. Yeah, yeah, yeah. But I just said, you know, missing a day off once a month to be with your lot is crazy. That just doesn't make any sense to me. I'm so sorry. Yeah, yeah, yeah.

38:17I just never went. so and if I was Japanese it probably would have caused more trouble but as American they probably just said well well you know what do you want he's just an American so and but I kind of think it's fair because I think people even nowadays will sometimes say well you know he's just a he's just a gaijin what do you want and he doesn't understand and sometimes I'm like you're right yeah don't understand so I don't get it you your culture is way too sophisticated for me I can't possibly understand yeah so no it's interesting i remember like even the when you like you go for a cigarette they've got them in that little boxed off thing whereas here you can just go smoke wherever and i was like that to me was just yeah but until 10 years ago people smoked in family restaurants with little babies sitting next to them so really that's the new that's the new thing it's 10 15 years maybe 20 i don't know i mean when i lived there when i opened ivan ramen everybody smoked everywhere interesting you could smoke on the trains in the train platform yeah yeah yeah smoke probably when i first went there you smoked on the trains and and everything so it's but same same i mean the whole world i mean you're just young i mean yeah yeah yeah when i was a kid you go to the movie theater you could smoke in the movie theater yeah yeah yeah it's just it's just what how old were you when you first went there uh 25 25 yeah and how else would you think the the i think i read some of you say it's changing like how is it changing for the better how's it changed you for the worst um for the best well i mean well i mean it's it's become you know japan's become really international and it's you know it's it's a little disappointing that you know it's harder to get a hotel room or it's harder to the plane tickets gotten a little more expensive or it's harder to get into some restaurants but i actually really like how international tokyo has become i mean it's it's when i went there in 2003 it was still not i mean And we used to talk about how Tokyo was just not an international city.

40:11I mean, nothing like London or New York. It was just, there was very few foreigners. There were foreigners, but nothing like now. There was no good wine. There was no good cheese. There was no, you know, there weren't very many good, there weren't good Italian and French restaurants. And now there's great, all of that. Probably the natural wine scene in Tokyo is as good as it is in Sydney. You know, it's really, really strong. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And there's guys who go to Italy, learn to make pizza. They come home, they make great pizza. If you like Neapolitan, I don't. But there's people, the best Neapolitan pizza, the pizziolas are all in Japan now.

40:50Yeah, yeah, yeah. Because they go train in Naples. What kind of pizza do you like? What's your, especially being in New York? I'm a New York pizza guy. I like a crispy, chewy pie. Have you had crisp pizza whilst you've been there? I had. You know, I wanted to go and I just realized it looked like, I mean maybe sometime in a couple of years you can go it doesn't look like it's a place you can just go to and there's no I checked there's no reservations for a month or more oh really even though because they just lit show up in the new pub yeah there's nothing it's booked out forever so I didn't yeah no that's really and it doesn't look like they said something about walk-ins but I don't know anyway I didn't bother yeah yeah next time I'll try it I mean I'm a I'm a big pizza nut I mean it's really it's probably my favourite thing really yeah so what's some of your favourite places in New York um I love Finney.

41:36I love Scars, which is my partner in Vegas. They're our neighbors in Vegas. I love a new spot called Series, which is really, really good. I love, what else do I love? Leigh Industry, Mama's 2 is really, really good. And then Ratza, which in my opinion is maybe the best. Ratza. Is in Jersey City. Yep. Just get on the path. It's three stops and it's right there. it's the best one and it's a great restaurant is that because what i found when i went to new york there's all these different shades and textures of people just different types of pizzas right um like what is the what is the difference by well because the shops i mentioned are all uh 48 uh 72 hour doughs right they're all cold rise they're all more they're all uh much more sophisticated complex doughs uh at a cheaper pizzeria in new york is there sugar and then olive oil in the dough it's it's not as complex i mean i've become very i'm terribly spoiled i i can't i can't just walk into a pizzeria and eat pizza anymore i don't like it yeah i don't need it i'd love to know well what you think of crisp when you do eventually get it it's super there's this weird wonderfulness to it yeah the bubbly um crust it's insane no i really want to run i i actually did a little bit of a deep dive on all the new pizzerias in london yes but i did a little bit too late i ended up doing it like on sunday or something yeah yeah it just was and it seems for whatever reason from this neighborhood it seems like all of those pizzerias are a good you know 40 minutes to an hour away yes whatever is alley cat and there's uh alley cats is good yeah it's weird like we're getting this new basically since covid this new kind of influx i think a lot of uh these guys are like vincenzo's uh gracie's pizza like all really really good pizzas i think i think they went to new york you know pre or even just the states um you know 2018 2019 covid happens you haven't got a job fuck it let's cook some pizza and then we had this whole wave of pizza come along and there's this london pizza style which is kind of a hybrid of different um you know sort of the traditional sort of new york slice and there's neapolitan like all fuse into one um but i'm not sure i necessarily agree with that but it is it's really interesting how it's because mate they're opening all the time now and it feels like because i remember i went to new york i was like this pizza here is just insane yeah what we've got this in the uk is awful i mean the pizzas when i moved back to new york in 2012 the pizza was terrible really just terrible interesting fallen off um and it was sort of like wow the new york's just doesn't have good pizza anymore yeah but very shortly after that all of a sudden the pizza scene kind of exploded and And all of a sudden, like, people started.

44:24And, I mean, I owned a really successful pizzeria. Oh, wow. I didn't realize that. Yeah, yeah. What was that called? It was called Corner Slice. Corner Slice. My partner. I mean, I don't take credit for the pizza because I didn't do anything. Yeah, yeah, yeah. He did all the cooking. And they've since moved to Jersey. But he made a grandma pie. That we specialized in grandma pies. Oh, wow. It was really good. His was like a 48-hour dough. You know, really good. If you ask what's the real difference between a good slice and a bad slice in New York, it's the quality of the flour and the cheese and the tomatoes.

44:57So the good places are using, a lot of them are using Bianco tomatoes from Chris Bianco, who's famous for the pizzeria in Phoenix.

45:11Or they're using San Marzano. They're using, and they're all on the more expensive side. They're all using really good cheese and using really good flour. When you go to a dollar slice paper, people say, yeah, a dollar slice is just as good. It's like, no, it's just, my kids eat in the neighborhood. And I'm like, I just, the dough stinks. It smells like cheap, nasty flour. The cheese is kind of gooey and weird and nasty. The tomato is full of sugar and it's just not good. And so I'd rather just never eat pizza again than eat that. What was so special about the, you know, You said the grandma pie.

45:48Was that thin crust, thick crust? The grandma pie is a pie that you stretch out on a half sheet tray and you par bake. Okay, yeah. And then when you get an order, you dress it and finish it in the oven. Okay. And there are slices. It's something your grandma used to make. It was simple. She was a simple pie, but they're really, really delicious. Wow. Yeah. I need to try that. Yeah. And then what's the ramen scene now? So you came over, you opened your shop. How's that evolved over the last 10, 15 years? Is it now more and more places are opening, more competition? Are the boats rising with the tide?

46:32We're in New York. In New York, yeah. So I feel like ramen's, again, we're probably four or five years behind you. Right. With most food things, to be honest. And now you guys are opening here, what's going to happen to the UK? is I think looking at New York's a kind of a good signal to the future? Well, I mean, more than anything, I think, look, I mean, I am, as far as I'm concerned, I'm a Japanese ramen guy. I mean, I started there. I became successful feeding Japanese people who stamped approval on my ramen and said it was good. I used, you know, that was my, that's what I had to do was make food for a Japanese customer.

47:11So I learned how to make food there using their ingredients. And so I've continued to use those ingredients I used when I lived in Japan. Yeah. And I think that that's happening more and more. I think the whole world is happening, right? I mean, the more people travel, the more people eat, you know, delicious food from different parts of the world. And then they come home and they want to make it. I mean, I don't really believe in the whole appropriation thing. I just think it's, I mean, I guess if you steal something. I mean, I just think the whole, I mean, cooking is just fucking cooking. I just don't, I just don't really, I just don't really understand it.

47:42I don't know. at the end of the day, you make food. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I've always said to people, you know, if you go, if you, if you steal my recipe and then open a shop across the street, you call it Ivan Ramey, but spell it different. And you have a guy who looks just like me standing up front. Maybe that's, that's fucked up. But, but barring that, I don't know. I mean, so what? Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's not. I mean, you go, you taste good food. And to me, the beauty of cooking is sharing and learning and, you know, and making things that you like. I mean, when I sold my shop to my manager and he said, can I keep the name Ivan Ramen?

48:18And I said, no, I'm sorry. I really, I don't want you to run the shop with my name. I want to expand my business. And he said, well, can I keep you cooking your food? And I said, yes, of course you can. I said, but I recommend against it. I said, if you cook my recipes, they're just going to call you a poser and no one's going to take you seriously. And even if you make my ramen perfectly, no one's going to like it because they're all going to say, that's Ivan's ramen. I said, make your own food, keep the noodle recipe or tweak some things but make it yours with your name, with your shop and then people will really respect you and they'll come.

48:54And he did. Yeah, that's interesting. And they do and they come and they do, you know, he does a delicious bowl of ramen and people respect him. And so it's like, I mean, at the end of the day, I don't know. I don't really believe in stealing from people because some operators really suck and we all know that somebody has like a great restaurant and you love it there and then one day you go and it's closed and you're like oh it's such a drag but it closed because probably they're not that good at business i mean it's possible that the landlord one day said you know the rents double or it's possible that you know but other than that maybe their plan didn't take into account that the cost of their main item might double yeah or or whatever you know there's for a lot of reasons.

49:38To me, the people that take a dish and will say, well, you know, that guy invented it. It's like, yeah, but this guy knows how to run a business and now he's got 50 of them and he knows what he's doing. So why, you know, good on him for knowing what he's doing. And he did a great job. And if you can't, just because you have a great idea or just because even McDonald's, right? They'll say Ray Kroc screwed them out of their business. He may have, he didn't sound like the most group it was guy, but he knew how to scale. And he figured out scaling. those guys knew how to make a lot of burgers at once but they didn't know how to scale yes so making a lot of burgers at once is really cool but if you don't know how to scale you can't get angry that they didn't scale and they didn't never thought he took the idea but they weren't like getting ready to scale and then he like fucked them over and burned down the building now yeah yeah yeah he just took the idea bought it off of them for a low price and then he scaled it and so to me i mean that's just business there's um there's a great book by will godara unreasonable for hospitality um he's coming on on the show actually in um in feb and he talks about the barbell strategy of restaurant smarts smarts and business smarts and he says like you could have you know to your point i think you've got this one great idea and dish but you can't link that to business then you fucked yes no and i and i've and i've asked people have asked me to advise them and help them and i've sat down with people and they've said you know i'm and it's like oh i'm I'm gonna make this dish and I don't care, you know, the cost of bones for the soup, it's like triple what it should, but I don't care because it's gonna be delicious and I was like, I'm gonna be like, you're an idiot.

51:06Yeah, yeah, yeah. They get very insulted and they're like, well, why would you say that to me? And I say, because it doesn't fucking matter. If you can't make money, you're a dope. Make money and then give it all away to orphans. Give it away to Oxfam, give it away to Greenpeace. Whatever you want with the money, give it away. Don't, you know, keep it under your mattress. It doesn't matter, but make money. Because if the business is not successful, I don't care what the business is. If it doesn't make money, it's a failure. That's just the end of the day, because that's what business is. Business makes money.

51:34Yeah, well, that's one of Marco White's things. Yeah. Your job is to make money. That's the job is to make money. The job is to make money and stay alive. Yes. One of our sponsors, they've just gone into business with him, or he's just sort of funded them. The whole point is you need to do all this shit and make it all putty-fluty. If you don't make money, you don't have a restaurant, then you found it. I mean, any idiot can take the best steak and, you know, and charge not enough money for it. And making delicious food is the fucking easy part of restaurants. What have you learned about scaling, keeping quality and making money?

52:10That kind of, that's those three legs to the stool. What have been some of the learnings and challenges on that journey? Well, especially with what I'm doing, which is food from Japan, which is not represented here anywhere near as well as New York. So it's been much more challenging to get good quality product and get what we're happy with and sourcing ingredients. And then it's on me to set up a structure that the person I ask to carry out the business can follow and that it makes sense for them and that they're able to do it. I mean, you can't, you know, there's plenty of franchises that have failed because whatever went wrong, but it's on the franchisor to set up a system that's easy to work with and and be accessible so if there's a problem you can hop on a plane or in a car or whatever and come over and help and always being available and supporting and making sure that you know the people you can't just say you know do a good job you have to give them the resources to do a good job and you have to inspire them to understand you know what into what it is about that business that people like and so that they can repeat it and replicate it and keep it going.

53:18And, and, you know, it's, that's the, that's the, that's the pie. That's on me. Yes. You know, that's on me is, you know, having good enough documentation that, you know, the person that's buying your business is, is contractually obligated to do what you tell them to do. Yeah. I love that thing you said earlier about writing that sort of that booklet of mistakes. Yeah. It's super interesting. So interesting. And which helps so many people listen to this in terms of, so in the states um my research gave me how many how many sites have you got in this in in the states now just two just two yep have you got one in do you say you've got one in vegas was that yes one in vegas and one in new york okay cool what how how have you what's the difference between business between those two places well vegas is a is a is a food hall in in the venetian resort yeah um so it's not you know it's it's a little tiny thing for such a giant you know it's a huge huge company that makes billions of dollars and has you know this tiny little food court um it's an excitement it's i think it's one of the better casinos on this trip so it's a really good one to be a part of and uh um they do a nice job our neighbors in our food hall are really nice and i like them and and uh you know like i said we have scars pizza we have howlin ray's uh yeah uh fried chicken we have turkey and the wolf from new orleans uh we have a la antica you know the from originally Florence, but it's become a pretty big company.

54:41And Beach Taqueria from LA. And everybody's, you know, they're all good guys. And, you know, it's a fun group. And it's a unique thing for, you know, otherwise we have, you know, some giant restaurants as well. Yes. They have Thomas Keller restaurant. They have a new Coates Steakhouse. They have all kinds of big, giant, glamorous restaurants as well. Interesting. And what are the unique challenges of getting with the type of customer in those places, say, versus New York versus Vegas? Well, I mean, we're, I mean, Ivan Ramen is a destination restaurant, so you mostly want to go there. We don't have great foot traffic.

55:20So if you want to eat Ivan Ramen, you say, let's go eat Ivan Ramen, and you go to my neighborhood. The Venetian is, you know, right in the middle of a giant casino, and people walk past it and wander in, or are they going to a show and they don't want to sit down for a complex meal so they come over to our Via Via food hall and choose a slice of pizza or a bowl of ramen or a fried chicken sandwich or whatever. Yeah, interesting. In terms of the genesis of ramen, again, I watched videos online of what we did with Dave Chang I thought was fascinating. Is it quite a new food, if I'm right in saying?

56:01What's the genesis? Well, it's new-ish. Newish, yeah. So tell me the genesis of it. Chinese noodles in Japan are clean and pristine and Japanese ramen is dirty and muddled. Dirty and muddled? Yeah. Yeah, yeah, yeah. We add all kinds of shit to it. If you have a bowl of Chinese noodles, it's usually a clear, pristine broth. Yes. You know, the Chinese don't tend to cook meat and destroy it and throw it away. In ramen, you put all the stuff in, you cook it until it's got nothing left in it and you throw it in the garbage. whereas in china you'll cook some i mean i'm generalizing there's many kinds of course yeah yeah cook cook some chicken and right when it's perfectly cooked you pull it out and you use that to for something else or garnish and then yeah and then you have a very light flavored broth yeah and whereas in you know ramen is cooked much harder and longer and uh it's it's and it's got a lot of when did it when did it start there was that was it the what year did that begin like do you know the actual story of it starting i don't remember when it started i know that it really picked up steam in the 50s um okay and then i think in the two early 2000s when i started uh it really became a new animal entirely wow i didn't realize it was that recent it's pretty it's a very recent i mean there's been ramen for many years before that but it was much but it wasn't as prominent yeah the um you know what similar to this your wall in i remember at vividly sat at the bar looking at that wall of kind of, I don't know, what is the, like, just all these, all these, it's almost the montage of all these beautiful things from Japan.

57:37What are some of those things on there that really mean stuff to you? Is that you putting your soul in the restaurant? Like, what was... That was everybody, that was, yes, that was images of famous, favorite comic book characters and rock and roll band logos and old Japanese postcards and advertisements and old Japanese comic book figures and all kinds of crazy personal stuff. It was fun. It was very organic. And the guy who made it was really talented. So he assembled everything in a really coherent, fun way. So is the Japanese cartoon, is that an anime? Is that the same thing? Yeah, what's the role of that in their culture?

58:21Because I don't really know anything about it. It's always been really important. I mean, it's been very popular, having anime. I don't be really honest with you. I don't know. I don't think I've ever watched an anime. Oh, so sorry. That's a TV thing, anime. Well, anime or movies. Also manga, the comic books. My kids, we have many hundreds of Japanese comic books. Yeah, yeah. And kids read them in Japanese. Wow. And they watch a lot of the Japanese cartoons and anime, I guess. Anime is another word for cartoon. maybe it suggests something a little more sophisticated.

59:00But like I said, the only comics I read were 1960s psychedelic comic books from Robert Crumb and stuff like that when I was a kid. And I actually liked, I read Marvel and Superman when I was a boy as well. But I have actually never been bitten by the Japanese manga bug. So I don't, I've read nothing. the um so one thing i you stride me as a person this uh you know i'm a fuck you kind of guy with with this kind of no fear attitude of like i'm doing what the fuck i want i feel like in business there's always this feeling of ambiguity that's what i've picked up you never know what the fuck's going to happen what's happening with prices whether the landlord's going to screw you over how have you when have you been really fearful in business first question and secondly how have you dealt with that?

59:50Because I think that will help a lot of people because in hospitality right now in the UK, it's this kind of malaise of fear is sort of spreading. Like I said, I mean, personally, I think you start with a good plan before you ever sign a lease. Sure. I really do. And I say that only because I meet just endless people who do that. They just, they get this idea that they want something and they just go in full steam ahead without a plan and without menus, without, you know, just sort of, yeah. And I kind of feel like if you don't have a really, you know, any business consultant will tell you that you need a business plan.

1:00:26Yeah. The business plan may go everything, finances and menus and concepts and artwork. Yeah, yeah, yeah. The more flushed out you can get your concept and how you're going to do it laid out, the better chance you'll have of success. Because you can follow that blueprint and keep coming back to it and try to stay close to it. I mean, unfortunately, the world prefers big business over small business. So most governments don't support us. They don't care about us. I think they would care when we all close. if every restaurant if every independent restaurant closed and every every cute hat shop and every watch shop and every stationary store and when they're all gone and I unfortunately I think there may be a day when they are really you know then the then the big government will say oh yeah yeah yeah oh yeah but we have we have all these gigantic companies and we have you know all the huge conglomerates and but it's you know the conglomerates don't have any character and I'm not even saying that I don't support that I think I think there's room for both you need one well it's also like if you've ever read Infinite Jess where he's where the years are sponsored by Burger King and shit you know set in that sort of dystopian future and I feel like there's so many great restaurants in London that are just getting eviscerated with all this with all this tax or just everything like that there's a whole well it's just you know in my country we're giving more and more money to big big businesses is that what's going on in the States and less and less money to small businesses and you know I think it should be opposite because I think that you know you know when you go to london or you go to new york the places you remember are the one-off really cool little spot down down the street and you know the guy sells all kinds of pipes from all over the uk or something yeah yeah yeah and it's really fun and you buy a pipe and you know and or whatever it is you know and yeah it's those are the places that you love or the the guy who comes up with some more like a ramen shop where the guy went to japan and came up with a an idea and they really love it and they come up they come up with their own spin and when you eat there you're like oh that was so interesting you know it's fun to eat at and you know not all those shops even need to leave a huge impression on you they could just be like that was really enjoyable and fun and you know it's there's little touches that actually add up it's what makes it's what makes cities wonderful it's what makes you remember you know you still need the ritz carlton you still need you know all that stuff yeah it's also really great and yeah you know uh but i i think i think it's unfortunate that at least in my country i don't think we value small business there's a lot of lip service to it but i don't i think they're liars really believe it i don't think there's what so what how what is when you say the big money is being siphoned off to the corporates well that's the whole new model of my government really of tax breaks to the very very wealthy and to the to giant corporations yeah so and is that how's that impacted your your two shops I don't know that it's impacted us quite yet, but I just think that it's, you know, it gets harder and harder and you know, you'll, it's hard to get help.

1:03:27You know, you know, you get a really high gas bill that you don't think is fair and there's no one to complain to. And there's no one to get help from, you know, or if the city makes a new ordinance that doesn't really make sense or, or the health department, the restaurant health department's not great. I think it's important. I would never say don't have a health department. That's crazy. but they penalize quickly rather than teaching and I'd rather them penalize you by teaching I'd rather pay a yearly fee and then when the health department comes it's a happy occasion hey man how can we help you that's really dangerous let's clean that up if you do that more than three times we're going to have to shut you down hey you know you pay your$3 ,000 a year $5 ,000 whatever you pay when the health department comes they're nice and they're supportive teach you because sometimes you don't always know or you make a mistake.

1:04:21I mean, most of us who either went to culinary school or trained in good restaurants, you would never think of cutting vegetables on a cutting board where there was raw meat before. You know better. You know to wash your hands always and frequently. I hate gloves because I think they encourage unsanitary behavior. I think you're much better off just always washing your hands. I wash my hands a hundred times a day. I have children and I have restaurants. I wash my hands all the time. You're crazy not to wash your hands, you know, and anytime you touch something, you know, if you pick up a box, you should go wash your hands because God knows where the box has been.

1:04:58Yeah. You need to know that, you know, and I think that I would love to see like the health department just work with people rather than showing up on Friday night at 8 PM during a busy service and everybody's scared and, you know, they're running around and it's, and it's very unpleasant yeah i think some of those things some of those types of you know the the right wing talks a lot about regulation and getting rid of it you know let's let's shift some regulation so that it makes it makes more sense the back back just quickly back to the plan thing um so you said you know you sort of sit with a lot of uh founders or people who've got a great idea and it's kind of like you know finger in the sky like okay i've got this idea we're going going to get going almost the plan is the robustness of the the sort of fragile future um what do you think when you look at speak to all these people what is missing what the one two three things missing from the plan because i think you've clearly know how to write a great great plan i think this will help a lot of people um well i think it's everything how are you going to pay you're going to pay your bills you know uh you know sometimes you fall in love with a dish that's not practical?

1:06:08It's hard to get the ingredients or the ingredients are too expensive or the amount of time it takes to make it. Can your staff make it? Do you have enough time to make it? How long does the guest have to wait? Thinking about what your concept is and if it's practical. Are there tons of those concepts and are you just going to be another one like everybody else and what's going to make you different or should you choose something different that people will be interested? I mean, Ivan Raman, to be really honest with you, was a white guy in Japan making ramen. That's my concept. I just happened to have opened in New York and I've continued over the years.

1:06:44And I think I'm a good cook and I think I'm a good leader because I think we've managed to be consistent and delicious. By virtue of the fact that I opened Japan, I think I was forced to try really hard to make it taste that terrible word authentic. But let's just say something, I don't like the word authentic, but I might say tastes like something a Japanese person would recognize as ramen. yep so uh but i told a story the other day you know that i mean i when i first before i opened Ivan Ramen i went to two popular ramen shops one served a Mazemen style which is a brothless style dish and it was it was a it was a anchovy pizza flavored noodle dish an anchovy pizza wow yeah tasted just like an anchovy pizza like seriously and it was really it was delicious yeah yeah They were really, really good.

1:07:32And then I went to a Thai noodle. It was a green curry ramen. Thai green curry ramen. Yeah. That was also really good. Yeah. And when I ate them, I thought, all right, you know what? I guess I think I can be myself and make ramen. Because they tasted both of those dishes, by the way, they tasted like ramen. They slurped. They had certain fish notes to them. They had a good amount of fat in them. They hit all the points that would make it ramen. It wasn't like they were calling it ramen, but it wasn't ramen. It was ramen. All the things that would make a bowl of ramen, they were ramen. Those things, it's the fat.

1:08:13Yeah, the fat, the noodles, the toppings, the slurpability, all that stuff. But they were a little off-center in their flavor components. And I was super impressed. And it emboldened me to think, wow, okay. I mean, I guess maybe this American guy, if it's delicious and people like my shop, they'll give me a chance. And so I was much less scared after that because I thought I could probably survive. And I've always, when I lived in Japan, I was always cautious. I never, you know, I didn't do a peanut butter and jelly ramen. I didn't, you know, I didn't do, I didn't do, trust me, cooks think of wacky things sometimes.

1:08:53Yeah, yeah, yeah. I was always sort of, you know, a little bit cautious about what I tried. but at the same time I realized that I could be probably be creative to a certain extent and I have right I put I put roasted tomatoes in there I put uh I put whole grain flowers in my noodles I you know I did I did a lot of things that originally people said was stupid yes and I did it anyway and people liked it and it became sort of iconic and now you know everybody does it yeah yeah it's it's something that but you know uh I think that you know when you when you think about that you know how are you going to be successful that's some of those sort of being willing to push through aren't you guys doing when now you're launching in london isn't aren't you guys doing an easter end noodle dish have i read that oh sorry no uh no no we the only thing that's potentially a little bit london-esque is the salt beef bao sorry that was it yeah we found yeah um and it really was less about me like i generally generally speaking don't do not love the idea of cooking for anybody but myself so i don't i don't make things for you know oh how did you make the ramen when you moved to new york how did you change it so people would like it i didn't i didn't change anything for myself and i same thing for london but uh um we do a pastrami bun in new york and getting pastrami here was a pain and trying to figure out how to make pastrami here was a bit of a pain and i said you know what why don't we try a salt beef people really love it they recognize it they enjoy it um you go to the bagel shops um funny enough i well i actually walked i found it for the first time three days ago i'd never really i've been in the neighborhood a lot but i'd never walked past it oh wow yeah when i walked past it i just had lunch and i was full so i did not have it but um i had i had a salt beef sandwich on rye with mustard at harrod's cafe in the basement yes um slightly different and i was and i was a little skeptical because it was sort of a department store cafe yep um but we were really hungry and my wife was super cranky and i didn't find i had i had like literally 15 minutes to feed her before all hell was gonna yeah and and so i said let's just go yeah and i ordered this salt beef sandwich and i was a little sort of like yeah whatever i'm probably gonna suck and it was really good like really it was as good as any sandwich I've ever had in New York.

1:11:15Like, it was delicious. The bread was really... Well, this is in Harrods. Yeah. And the bread was like a really fresh, delicious, aromatic rye bread. It was lovely. It was really the perfect mustard. The meat was really tender and moist. And I just, I really, I tucked into that sandwich, and I really enjoyed it. And I was like, man, this is good. Like, really good. I could really enjoy it a lot. Yeah. And I'm a New Yorker, so, I mean, anytime I eat a good sandwich, I mean, I'm... we new yorkers if we're going to be snotty about something it's probably sandwiches and pizza yes um and um with good reason to a certain extent but it doesn't mean that you can't go somewhere else and have just as good or better and i have you know yeah um but i'm often disappointed in sandwiches outside of new york because i you know because i just don't you're one of the best sandwiches in new york for you do you think because where we were staying is that mr purple which is by cat's deli and then your other place so i don't know if you know i than the street was that's when i came yeah 2019 and i remember eating that thinking fuck me this is this is different the cats the sandwich is really really good yeah um all their sandwiches good you know right near there there's regina's which makes a really good uh um uh uh italian combo yeah italian combos are very good sandwiches uh in new york they're italian combos so what's kinds of capicola, meats, different sliced Italian meats, provolone on an Italian bread.

1:12:54There's a couple of different shops that are famous, but those are really, really good. A couple of pizzerias make really good sandwiches. The Mama's 2 makes it just an insane chicken parmesan with a parrata and pesto and tomato sauce. It's a little expensive, to be honest with you. But boy, I mean, I just crushed it. It was so, so good. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So there's a lot of really good sandwich places in New York. S &P Lunch. S &P Lunch is great. Really? And that's not an overstuffed sandwich. So that's more, it's a hundred year old sandwich counter on Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street. And it was open forever and ever and ever.

1:13:41And then it looked like it was going to close. And these guys who have salmon shops all around, they took it over, but they maintained everything about it, even with the holes in the vinyl seat still. Oh, wow. So it's a smaller sandwich, but cheaper. Wait, so when you say smaller, what sort of thing is it? I mean, it's not overstuffed. I just mean it's not, you know, if you go to Katz's Deli, you can barely hold the sandwich. Sure, okay. At S &P Lunch, they're just a, it's a nice size sandwich. It's not tiny, but it's not like this ridiculous thing the size of your head. And what would you go for there?

1:14:13What sort of, what fillings can you get there? Same sort of stuff? No, they do, well, they do a roast, they do a pastrami sandwich, they do a tuna melt, they do a, you know, just really simple old school sandwiches. but it's got tons of atmosphere and if you're in that neighborhood, it's a really fun place to sit and have that and have some French fries or a celery soda. You've never had one. Celery soda? Oh, it's the best thing in the world. It's a very New York thing. Yeah, it's celery. It's called Dr. Brown Celery Soda. So celery, yeah? But it's basically, it's sort of like a celery tonic. Wow.

1:14:48It's fucking the best soda ever. That sounds amazing. Very, very good. Yeah, yeah, yeah. That was my, I don't drink soda. I gave up soda many years ago. Yeah. but that's if I go to a deli I generally have a celery there's a drink I don't know when you go well you go back to Mordone but next time you're over there's a drinks brand called Bativo over here which is it sounds it sounds repugnant but it's fucking amazing you have an orange it's like it's alcohol free but it's almost like apple cider vinegar but a little bit of it and it just adds to any soda and you're just like wow it's this whole sort of magical flavour it goes well with everything it's probably quite similar what do you think of what surprised you about the London food scene when you've gone to the Harrods food hall.

1:15:29Like, we had a chef... This wasn't even the food hall. The food hall was too chaotic. Was it in the basement? This was in the basement. There's this kind of reputation with the food. You know, the food in Harrods is being just overpriced. So it's really interesting when you said that Sarni was top 10. It was really good. And I don't remember what it was. I don't think it was crazy expensive. but the food hall definitely looks like fun because counters are always fun to sit at. The last time we were there, it was just bonkers, and I didn't even bother trying to sit at any. You could barely walk through.

1:16:06Yes. It was so crowded. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Harrods is a little, it's also a Knightsbridge, which I don't know what the hell you do in Knightsbridge. There's not a lot going on for me, and maybe I just don't know. Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's kind of a weird. It's a little bit far. Yeah. but I mean I love department stores so yeah I like shopping yeah yeah yeah where have you been staying when you've been in London right five minutes from here yeah you've got some good places a few more things we went to Scotty's snack bar for lunch yeah yeah you were saying what did you have you had the I just had the scallop sandwich we split it my wife and we had a cuppa and we had a cuppa a cuppa yeah what did you do you like the cuppa oh I do love you know what it's funny i've had some really expensive black tea and i have to tell you pg tips taste the best every single fucking time and every brit i know says i talk about the fancy tea they go you know pg tips it's the best so and it is yeah yeah yeah it's got that flavor you know i mean i also drink a lot of chinese tea and i like i like chinese and japanese tea as well but it's a different thing yeah but i find british british black tea to be very comforting but it's like the other day we We bought some Taylor's, what did my wife bring, English Breakfast.

1:17:18I think it just went right in the garbage. It was in one cup. It just had no flavor. It said rich and malty on the outside. I think the more snooty the tea here, the worse it is. It's like, just don't fuck with something that's working. Yeah, no, the PG Tips is just, you know, it has this really deep flavor that's just so good. And the Taylor of Hargis, their regular black tea is pretty good, too. Yeah. But I would say if I had to choose, I would probably choose the PG Tip. Yeah. Have you been to Black Bear Burger up there? No. He's one of my mates who owns a restaurant. So I think it's one of the best, being voted one of the best burgers in London.

1:17:56Kind of different. It does like a miso burger. Right. But his whole thing, again, point of difference is, we'll get you in with a burger, but we'll keep you with the sides. So their sides are kind of, they do, what's it like? Burger. it sounds disgusting but it's fucking delicious like a burger spring roll when it's cut in half with the cheese and like the beef brisket and then you have these different sauces right that's insane um around here so there's just so much good food in this little um area i want to just wrap up on a few things and like sort of personal questions so i yeah i love reading and we sort of briefly touched upon it at the beginning mate about sort of japanese literature what are some of those what's some of your favorite books that really sort of i think i believe really believe some books can just completely open up the way you view the world um what are some of those for you uh what do i just i've read a couple of japanese authors lately i just read the the housekeeper and the professor about a and an old professor who uh only has a memory for like 59 minutes or something and oh wow and and and the housekeeper who forms a friendship with him um that was a really really nice book i just read murakami's newest book which i really liked um which i can't for the life of me remember yeah yeah yeah but it was also uh uh really really good have you read his um what i think about when i think about running you know what i yeah yeah that's i think that's really interesting uh maybe we can explore this is like that book's as much as sort of a meditation about like it's not even about running i don't i thought it was going to be a running it's not about that at all.

1:19:33If you were to do like a book on like what I think about when I think about ramen, and this could be tenuous and nebulous, so fuck it off if you want to, what does that teach you? Well, I mean, I think anybody who works at something, whether you're a lawyer or a doctor or a cook or whatever, right, you go into your world where you take all your knowledge and try to create something good. And, you know, when I opened Ivan Ramen all the way back in the beginning, I remember sort of having all my mentors kind of around my shoulder, you know, commenting and reminding me and, you know, how to work hard, work clean, you know.

1:20:08Yes. You know, you know, don't cut corners, you know. And so to me, it'd be like, you know, some people would say, you know, I had one guy say to me in an interview, you know, what happened to you? You know, you worked at Lutece and now you're making noodles. How sad. Sorry, you worked at the where? Sorry. He said, you know, you worked at Lutece and now you're making ramen. That's so sad. Like, what happened to you? I mean, obviously he was a dick Yeah, yeah, yeah And I told him so But what I did tell him was, you know There are a lot of really fancy French russians They're just garbage And everybody, they get three Michelin stars They're supposed to be amazing And I won't name them But I mean, I've been to ones in Paris That everybody falls over to them And then you go And the service is rude And they push really expensive dishes on you And the food's fine But it's not dreamy food And it's just sort of like, you know my point is that and that you don't you just don't want to eat you know there's some days you'd say i'm going to take you to you know i'll take you to lane ducasse man i'm paying and i might just say you know i mean i'm so sorry i just cannot eat that right now i don't i'm just gonna have yogurt and then some of this really good granola i bought and i probably enjoy it just as much as i would have enjoyed the fancy restaurant nothing when lane ducasse he's a genius and i i like his restaurants but i mean you don't want to eat at lane ducasse restaurant every single day the same way he probably doesn't want to eat at his restaurant every day sometimes he just wants to have a you know something simple and so there's room for everybody yeah um and uh you know it's it's great to have uh i mean what did my dad used to say that's what makes horse races you know we'll say so that's what makes horse races yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah interesting have you you've touched upon mentors a few times in our conversation ivan who has been some of your big mentors and And what have they taught you?

1:21:51When I say a mentor, I don't know if they're really a mentor. I mean, I have my pal, Bill Pete, who's the chef at Tavern on the Green in New York. Yep. But he was the sous chef at Lutece for 15 years. And, you know, he was always sort of showing me and teaching me and helping me. And he was always kind and never yelled. And, you know, he was someone. And Bobby Flay, I wouldn't call him a mentor, only that, you know, I was just a young, young cook. And he was the owner of a big, fancy restaurant. but he was also a nice guy and gave me a bunch of advice here and there and yeah and uh you know uh so I've never really had you know one person that you know I came up under or anything okay with you yeah but you know and like I said I never worked in a ramen shop so I can't say gee I learned how to make noodles from so and so because I you know there was no one to work with so yeah you know I don't think I've worked in a restaurant besides mine for gosh 25 years yeah yeah yeah and what what would be your leadership sort of principles i know it was all like how do you get a team of votes evolved getting after every single day so not an easy thing you have to show people that it's that it's worthwhile you have to show them the food's really good you know i talked to the new staff here i said you know you're not just working at a ramen shop you're working at a ramen shop that has we're very lucky to have a following and people know who we are and if you told people where you work they'd be excited you know some people would know about it you know okay so it's I think it's something exciting to know that you're representing something.

1:23:19And then not only that, though, also the idea that, you know, people really look forward to going out to dinner. And even though it's just a bowl of ramen, and I know it's not cheap, cheap, but it's, you know, it's on the inexpensive side. And I think, you know, it's important for people to understand and for workers to understand how excited people are to go out and how disappointing it is if they don't have a good time. and that we're taking their money from them and that we need to be honest and hardworking and get people behind. And I think a lot of people, when you talk to them that way, they realize it because everybody feels the same way.

1:23:51You know, you want to... Yes, I've never heard it. I sit opposite loads of successful people, right, in this game, but your perspective is really unique, Ivan, in that it's almost this empathy of... It's not about what we're trying to do. It's about what the customer's going to go and tell their friends, how they're spending their hard-earned cash here. Yeah. That's so interesting It's almost like this empathetic Showing, not telling Through empathy kind of thing Well, it's just if you take money from someone And you don't give them a good experience You're stealing from them I mean, if you fuck up, it's fine We make mistakes Sometimes the food is burnt Sometimes you spill something Sometimes you have a waiter And you don't realize they're not that nice in time You can get rid of them eventually But I think the notion That if you willingly give someone a bad experience and you take their money, you're ripping them off.

1:24:41And I don't like that. And I do this because I love this experience. I love going to restaurants and I love interacting with servers and looking at the decor and how did they design their space and what's the bathroom like and what dishes did they use and what's their beverage program and why did they choose that beer or whatever. All those things are interesting to me and fun. And I think it's that way for all people to different degrees. I mean, I'm a restaurateur and I'm a food geek, so I probably dial deeper than most people. But, you know, I think if you drink out of a water glass that feels really good in your hand, you might notice and say, well, what a thoughtful choice.

1:25:21How nice. I love that glass. Or, you know, I love the way they presented the food. I really understand what it is. And like I said, and then, you know, conceptually, some concepts are bad and, you know, you don't know where you are. You know, you're in a restaurant that serves, you know, food from, you know, the coldest part of Russia, but they have surfboards on the wall because the owner loves surfboards. And so the guests are just all super confused. But you know you've been to a place like that where you're like, I do not understand it. And decor doesn't match the food. And I don't know why they did it.

1:25:57And maybe you're a food guy, so you can actually realize why you're uncomfortable. But most people don't even know why they're uncomfortable. They just don't want to come back because they feel bad in the restaurant. Have you managed to go to the Devonshire while you're here? A couple trips ago. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So Osh has been on the pod, the owner of that, a couple of times, three times actually. And his whole principle is removing silent irritants. And we annihilate silent irritants. So a silent irritant could be as you walk in, you're queuing, and you just sat there and you feel like a fucking idiot.

1:26:30if someone just goes i see you that's the silent irritant removed it could be the fork you know like you said um rory his friend gave an example you go to the best restaurant in the world if the forks like up like that it's a silent irritant what would you say some of the silent irritants not necessarily just in ramen but in restaurants that you think happen too frequently um yeah well certainly that i mean i i went to a very famous restaurant in london last year and there were no less than nine people working at the counter making food servers bristling back and forth and not one person made eye contact not one person welcomed us not one person said just a moment please they said dick all while I stood there feeling like a complete idiot until 12 minutes went by and then someone said I think that's Ivan Orkin and then all of a sudden they would whisked us to a table and we had a glass of wine and we did oysters and we were like what an asshole I mean it's bad and I'd rather you just kicked us out I mean now you recognize me now you're nice after I know you're a jerk you know that's the word that's a loud irritant and I think that happens in restaurants a lot where you know it's super awkward or they just kind of let you know that they don't really don't really want you there they just want you to come in and shut up and it's sort of like I don't that's not why I go to a restaurant you go to a restaurant to have someone make you smile make you smile and on the other side of that like silent pleasantries i feel like when he's coming on next week sat baines um it's complete opposite end two-star michelin up in nottingham went there last week as sort of a research trip genius silent pleasantry so i'm like i want to go for a cigarette and so he goes oh we're gonna go to they've got the cigar hat at the back and he just goes oh looks like you the guy's taking me out goes looks like you like um 90s hip-hop which i happened to just do like 90s sort of hip-hop and as soon as he said 90s hip-hop this i think was either alexa behind the thing started playing i was like that is that is fucking sick and it's just this and it just creates this sort of magic and this feeling of i was in that sort of gastronomic nanny it was absolutely wild like what what what are some of those sorry silent pleasantries you try and implement in your restaurants and it can be something small it doesn't have to be big Yeah, like I said, it's acknowledging people when they're there.

1:28:49It's creating space for them to order. And, you know, some people don't really know much about ramen. I mean, ramen's still a hard thing to sell because even though you might eat ramen once a week and you love it and you've been to Japan, there are still more people than not that have never eaten it. Or maybe they've had a hard brick of instant ramen, but they've never actually been to a ramen shop. And so, you know, we deal with a lot of education at Ivan Ramen and trying to help people to really know about it. And, you know, and you want people to feel good about it and excited and not make them feel like they don't know something and just help them know more and guiding people.

1:29:31You know, we don't upsell at Ivan Ramen. We don't, you know, we want people to have what they want to have and have them eat as much or as little. You know, I don't love when I'm told how many dishes I need to fill me up. I mean, I just, I don't know. That's annoying. I mean, I'm a grown man. What are your thoughts on small plates as a concept? I mean, whatever. I mean, I'm not sure. I mean, sharing has become such a big thing, and I don't mind sharing. And good restaurants often have so many fun-looking things. You know, you end up wanting to try a lot of things. So I'm not, I mean, I don't really have any of those, like, I only feel this way or that way.

1:30:08I mean, I get it. sometimes you miss the days when you would just get a big charger in front of you and eat your piece of lamb and enjoy it and you don't have to share it a big charger such a wonderful way of saying it yeah a big charger yeah and but but uh i think it's more like unless the plates are just little you know one tablespoon bites i don't need to be told how many plates i need to order i can just and then i'm and i'm super comfortable ordering more unless the kitchen says you know you only have an hour and 10 minutes here we really encourage you to order everything at once because otherwise you probably won't be able to and some restaurants are so busy and so tight that's a rule and that's fine you know you can order once and that's it and i've been to a lot of restaurants that say you can only order once because their turn times are tight sure that's fine and then i'll just i'll just and then you know what but i'm once again big boy if i'm still hungry there's still another 900 restaurants out the door and i can go eat something or i can get a yogurt at the local grocer yeah so i don't i'm never i don't i'm not fearful of being hungry yeah yeah not not in not in modern day london or new york or tokyo i mean it's just even in the middle of the night there's something to eat so it's it's or or guess what you could be hungry for five hours yeah you know humans used to be hungry for a week so oh yeah you know i think being hungry for a couple hours is also okay yeah so i i like ordering what i want and and then you know i mean i've been to two restaurants this week where i you know we ordered and something yeah where have you been since you've been in london at what place well been tost john's twice.

1:31:37Yes. Because that's my favorite. Yes. Been to Singberry. Been to Kiln. Yes. Did a big giant Kiln lunch yesterday. It was really fun. Went to Quality Wines. Went to Quality Chop House. The next one. Yeah, sick. And Scotty's for a half of a scallop chicken sandwich. It was just a sandwich your half-blind grandmother makes for you. but they were super nice and the sandwich was warm and fresh and the atmosphere was lovely and I really enjoyed it so where I live there's two cafes one further down the road about 50 metres apart 20 metres apart some of the best coffee I've ever had insane, the one next to the coffee is actually shit so it's accurate, it's bitter but the service is so warm I know everyone, she knows my name and it's just that and it just, I just, there's something about, it doesn't have to be the best, but it can just be those little things done well.

1:32:39The Regency Cafe is my favorite, but I can't. Regency Cafe? I love it. Yes. I've been there many times, but I've sort of, I've had to give up that. What's, okay, this is quite a controversial one, but like, so English breakfast, American breakfast. Oh, English breakfast every fucking time. Really? Oh yeah, man. English breakfast is just so badass. Really? It's genius, really. So, but as in like. I mean, baked beans? yeah it was so good black pudding I like any kind of any kind of blood pudding I love yes I'm a big blood pudding guy and you know Cumberland sausage I mean unfortunately a lot of the cafs they use frozen crap so you know a lot of times the Cumberland sausage isn't good but a fresh one is really really good yeah you know and hash brown so they're all the same triangle pieces of fucking you know yeah but but the Regency Cafe there's some once again the atmosphere in there and the coffee's really hot and fresh and uh i don't know it's it's a joyous place to go i mean i like it i like i said i've sort of given up that uh that that just uh heart attack food for now but uh yeah well i mean it's like it's cholesterol inducing but it's also joy and juicing what is the like the american diner how is that breakfast different um i mean for me that has any views For me, I mean, I grew up in Long Island where diners are popular.

1:34:02But for me, the real New York breakfast for me is a toasted bagel with cream cheese and smoked salmon and capers and chopped red onion. I mean, that's, you know, that's my real New York breakfast more than, you know, eggs and hash. I mean, probably my second would be a corned beef hash. Yes. which is also very, you know, corned beef and potatoes chopped up and fried until it's crispy, gooey on the inside, crispy on the outside with two fried, overeasy eggs on top. And that's also really good. Not a huge pancake guy, but I'll have one every once in a while. Yeah. And, but the concept, if you're eating eggs and meat, the English breakfast is really, it's stunning.

1:34:46And then mushrooms, the whole thing. It's just, I can do the whole, the whole giant. When you're hungover, when you're hungover, it's just, you go and get that. It's just, it's, yeah, it's a carby cuddle we did one at the Wolseley last trip which was awesome oh really? I like the Wolseley yeah yeah yeah I like the Wolseley because that's Jeremy King he's coming on the pod in a couple of weeks he's got a really good book out called Without Reservation it's like the it's almost like the James Bondification of Unreasonable Hospitality so it's very British but it's it's fucking good so a few more things I'm going over to New York in in well some early next year where do I eat what the sort of best restaurants or place not even best restaurants but place I need to go and eat at I don't know what are you what are you what are you talking so I would like so so a sort of premium michelin place right just razzle dazzle yeah do you know actually do you know Natura the company Natura yeah yeah so I'm Franco's a good friend of mine so that's what I'm going to see um so somewhere like that a cheap uh place where we do do like a sandwich like the bodega place sort of places um pizza right uh probably a dessert place right um and then just yeah they don't have to be fucking all like razzle dazzle places um well there's like led la vea door which is the new the from the guys who have frenchette and now uh and now uh cherry cherry lane so called in the Cherry Lane movie theater, old theater, just opened.

1:36:18That one's an old school French place that they revamped. Very popular, really fun. The Grill, which used to be the Four Seasons run by the guys who own Carbone. Oh, because that's as long as you hear, Carbone. I love that. Carbone just opened and then you, it's very hard to get into, but Taurisi is also a really good fan. Taurisi. Taurisi, another owner. There's Rich Taurisi, whose namesake, the original Taurisi that launched. yeah yeah yeah and Mario Carbone then they partnered with a a very good business partner and I mean now they're just crushing the whole world but um the uh Teresa's really fun if you can get into it um there's uh uh what else is new and new and fancy um and it's always fun to go to the Gramercy Tavern for a cocktail and some way yes have you met Danny Mayer have you ever I met Danny and I know and I but I know I know Michael Anthony really well he's the chef of and now Lex Yard which is the new Waldorf Astoria which is one of them too and then just quickly we talked about Pizza Series Little A Industry Mama's 2, Scars and there's another one and then there's S &P Lunch Regina's Sandwich there's DeFonte in Brooklyn

1:37:45and the pastrami queen if you're uptown if you want to try a pastrami sandwich uptown and Mama's too and Lane just both specialize if you look at their Instagram they're always doing some kind of wacky good sandwich shake yeah final question I'll ask this to all guests what's one truth you believe that most people would disagree with you on one truth? yes I don't know the customer's always right because Because they're paying. Yes. And you think everyone forgets that? Yeah, I mean, you know, these days people can be a little entitled. You have your smattering of Karens. Smatterings of Karens? That's so good.

1:38:26But I think in general, you're asking people to pay. And I think you need to make things really comfortable for people and try to make them happy. because it's, you know, the customer isn't always right if they say, nah, this is too salty. It's like, all right, we'll eat somewhere else. Super comfortable saying eat somewhere else. And, you know, that's fine. You don't want to, you don't like it. You don't have to pay for it, you know. Or you want something different? We'll give you something different. It's no problem. You know, you're not going to hurt my feelings, really. It's pretty hard to hurt my feelings.

1:38:59Mate, Ivan, thank you so much. Thank you. Absolute joy. So buzzing you're in London. And, yeah, we'll get this live. and I can't wait to get my mitts on your ramen, man. I really appreciate it. Thank you. Thank you so much. Hey, guys. Thank you so, so much for watching this video. Hope you were loving the episode. I appreciate a really small yet significant favor, por favor. Please may you click the subscribe button. Get in the comments. Tell me what you think about the episode. Tell me what you think we did on the show. It may not seem much, but it really helps us grow and helps us get bigger guests.

1:39:29Thank you so much.

From the publisher

Ivan Orkin is one of the most unlikely success stories in the world of food.

A Jewish kid from New York moves to Tokyo, opens a tiny ramen shop in the suburbs, and somehow ends up becoming one of the most respected ramen chefs in Japan — a country famously protective of its culinary traditions.

In this conversation, Dan sits down with the founder of Ivan Ramen to unpack how that happened.

Ivan talks about teaching himself ramen, opening his first shop in Japan with barely any money, and the moment a single influential ramen critic changed the trajectory of his business overnight. He explains why ramen is one of the most creative foods in Japanese cuisine, why “authentic” is often the wrong word to use, and how breaking rules is sometimes the only way to find your voice.

Along the way they dive into the realities of running restaurants across different cities — from Tokyo to New York to Las Vegas — the difference between destination dining and foot-traffic restaurants, and the constant tension between creativity and the brutal economics of hospitality.

It’s a conversation about stubbornness, identity, and what it really takes to build something original in a culture that isn’t your own.

ON THE MENU:
00:00:00 Intro
00:02:08 Japanese Literature and Murakami
00:04:23 Why Ivan Studied Japanese at University
00:11:05 The Genesis of Ivan Ramen - $60k to get started
00:12:26 Foreigner in Japan’s Ramen Scene
00:14:02 Fixing the Hospitality Problem in Ramen Shops (Lessons form Lutece)
00:25:33 What makes a good Ramen?
00:36:12 Taking Advantage of the Gaijin Card
00:40:05 How Tokyo Became an International Food City
00:40:12 Pizza & Wine - Tokyo Rivals the Best of the World
00:41:11 Ivan’s Favorite NYC Pizza Spots
00:44:06 Why the Pizza Scene Exploded in New York
00:47:50 Why Ivan Doesn’t Fear Recipe Copying
00:51:02 Ray Kroc and No-Nonsense Business Advice
01:01:52 How the USA is Killing its Small Businesses
01:06:08 What Most Restaurant Business Plans Miss
01:07:08 Why "Authentic" is a Terrible Word
01:07:52 The Moment Ivan Decided He Could Go For It
01:12:21 The Best Sandwiches in NYC
01:15:47 Ivan on London’s Food Scene
01:17:16 Ivan on British Tea (PG Tips vs Fancy Tea)

 

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