In short
How Subdial scales a high-value pre-owned watch business using data-driven pricing, liquidity mechanics (buy vs consign), and technology to make watches a transparent, investable asset class.
Guest backgrounds
Ross Crane is co-founder and CEO of Subdial (founded 2018). He previously worked at Ernst & Young on big data/tech projects (management consultant). He and co-founder Christy pivoted from a short-lived food-tech startup (seed-funded, returned remaining £250k).
Key claims
- Watches can be treated like a “commodity” when enough market data exists; Subdial prices by expected sale range and speed.
- Dealers often ask “what do you want?”; Subdial asks “what am I willing to pay?” using market data.
- Post-COVID watch “bubble” has passed; current market is steady with ~5% annual inflation.
- Don’t buy watches purely as investments; buy what you’ll enjoy.
Notable examples
- A 1970s Rolex Daytona with an Imani red kanjar dial symbol (with telegrams/epaulettes provenance) sold for well into six figures.
- Subdial tracks ~750,000 global listing records daily and uses them to set pricing and spreads.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOFrom Food Tech to Watches: The Journey Begins
0:45 to 2:18
Ross Crane shares his background and the pivot from a failed food tech startup to the watch industry.
“In this episode, we discuss pivoting from failure, applying technology to a traditional industry, and why watches are increasingly seen as an investable asset class.”
Lessons from Failure: Understanding Customer Love
2:18 to 5:24
Ross discusses the challenges and lessons learned from his food tech startup experience.
“And myself working in professional services, commuting every day, thought there was a more interesting way of doing that that had less friction.”
The Pivot to Watches: Finding Passion and Opportunity
5:24 to 7:58
Exploring the decision to pivot to the watch industry motivated by passion and experience.
“And I think you obviously believe in your own idea.”
Data-Driven Approach to the Watch Market
7:58 to 11:14
Ross explains how Subdial uses data and technology to revolutionize the watch buying process.
“is it is a brilliant intersection of all of the things that we care about so it is a passion product.”
Transparency in Valuation: A New Perspective
11:14 to 12:54
Discussion on the importance of transparency in pricing and valuing watches.
“data, but it's everyone else's data too.”
A Memorable Early Experience with a Valuable Watch
12:54 to 14:03
Ross shares a story of an exciting early interaction with a customer regarding a valuable watch.
“I understand you have a good story about that.”
The Story Behind a Unique Rolex Daytona
14:03 to 17:25
Learn about a rare Rolex Daytona with a fascinating backstory involving the Imani royal family.
“So I'd send a polite response and said, oh, can you send me some better pictures and give me a bit of the background of the watch?”
Valuation and Market Insights
17:26 to 18:15
Discover how an effective valuation process can greatly benefit sellers in the watch market.
“So what you said earlier, which struck me, it wasn't how much do you want for this watch.”
The Importance of Data in Watch Trading
18:16 to 19:51
Understand how data analysis enhances confidence and pricing in the watch trading market.
“Because we've got probably more data around trading than anyone else.”
Building a Unique Team at Subdial
19:52 to 21:08
Explore how Subdial's diverse team contributes to their unique approach in the watch industry.
“And most of the people who come to us, a lot of people who come to us are not coming from the watch industry.”
Show all 30 chapters
Subdial's Business Model Explained
21:09 to 23:29
Learn how Subdial facilitates buying, selling, and collecting watches seamlessly for customers.
“Everything that we have has been offered to it by our customers.”
The Role of the Clubhouse in Customer Engagement
23:30 to 27:37
Discover how Subdial's clubhouse enhances customer experiences and fosters community.
“So to sell it, you have to bring it back in.”
Understanding Subdial's Customer Base
27:38 to 28:00
Gain insight into the diverse range of customers that Subdial serves in the watch market.
Understanding Watch Collectors
28:00 to 29:24
Explore the demographics and motivations of watch collectors.
Market Dynamics of Luxury Watches
29:24 to 31:06
Learn how limited production affects the value of luxury watches.
“So when Patek released the 5811, the new white gold Nautilus, there's only so many made, they are genuinely limited by production, and there's an awful lot of people that want them.”
Perception of Watches as Assets
31:06 to 33:14
Discover how buyers view watches as investments rather than mere purchases.
“and it's not just about pre-owned and making a discount or the grey market, I think, as people would have previously handled it.”
The Post-COVID Watch Market Bubble
33:14 to 36:08
Examine the bubble in the watch market post-COVID and its implications.
“What's the unhealthy way of looking at it?”
Current Trends in the Watch Market
36:08 to 38:18
Understand the current market conditions and trends in watch collecting.
“And actually, if you look back over 20 years in the watch market, that is the average.”
Consignment and Sales Strategies
38:18 to 42:00
Learn about the consignment process and strategies for selling watches.
“But I think for us that's great because it brings a new type of person into the market.”
Understanding the Watch Market Dynamics
42:00 to 43:52
Learn how pricing and market demand influence watch sales.
“But you do get people in the watch market and like every other market that will just over promise.”
Challenges of Running SubDial
43:52 to 46:02
Explore the complexities and challenges faced in the pre-owned watch business.
“What are the things that maybe keep you awake at night?”
Security and Customer Trust in Watch Sales
46:02 to 48:03
Discover how SubDial ensures security and builds customer trust in transactions.
“We also keep extremely robust records of where everything is.”
Watches as a Store of Value
48:03 to 50:48
Understand the appeal of watches as a liquid asset compared to other collectibles.
“It's hard to get five on Trustpilot, and there are lots of reviews.”
Focus and Team Building in Startups
50:48 to 53:13
Learn about the importance of focus and team dynamics in startup success.
“you can liquidate those things for a pretty well-determined price point and actually have money in your bank account within 48 hours.”
Misconceptions About the Watch Market
53:13 to 56:03
Debunk common myths about the pre-owned watch market's value and significance.
“The other aspect you mentioned was building a team.”
Understanding the Watch Market
56:03 to 58:07
Learn about misconceptions in the watch market and the significance of the secondary market.
“This is where people go to get the one that's lost its box and papers, and so it's a bit cheaper, or it's the last year's model line, and so it's a bit, get a bit of a discount.”
The Appeal of Rolex
58:07 to 1:00:03
Explore what makes Rolex a leading brand and its unique market position.
“But I think there is a growing appreciation from the brands that really the ability and ease with which you can sell a new watch is inextricably linked to its success on the secondary market.”
Future Aspirations and Market Focus
1:00:03 to 1:02:09
Discover the ambition to expand while maintaining a focus on watches as an asset class.
“You know, they'd completely overhauled the Daytona, but that was it.”
The Weekly Drop Concept
1:02:09 to 1:06:24
Understand the innovative weekly drop strategy and its impact on customer engagement.
“is probably not and i think that the reason is there aren't many other asset classes that fit this model quite as well as watches do.”
Reflections on Passion and Future Plans
1:06:24 to 1:08:50
Hear Ross share his passion for his work and ambitions for the future of the business.
“Would you go and live in one of those markets?”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00Welcome to All About Business with me, James Reed, the podcast that covers everything about business, management, and leadership. Every episode, I sit down with different guests who bootstrap companies, masterminded investment models, or built a business empire. They're leaders in their field, and they're here to give you top insights and actionable advice so that you can apply their ideas to your own career or business venture.
0:29Watches are emotional purchases. So how do you turn them into a data-driven asset class? Today on All About Business, I'm joined by Ross Crane, co-founder of Subdial, a platform bringing data, transparency, and liquidity to the global watch market. In this episode, we discuss pivoting from failure, applying technology to a traditional industry, and why watches are increasingly seen as an investable asset class.
1:01Well, today on All About Business, I'm really delighted to welcome Ross Crane. And Ross is the co-founder and CEO of Subdial. Subdial is described as a pre-owned luxury watch platform, which was established in 2018. So Ross, I'm fascinated by this because it's a disruption of a market that had probably been going on for a very long time where dealers would quietly buy and sell watches that have been pre-owned. You have transformed it. What made you think of this? How did you begin? So when we came into this, we were actually not coming from a watches background. In fact, both myself and Christy, who's my co-founder, were at Ernst & Young doing big data and tech projects.
1:51We'd left, or in fact, I'd left back in 2017. So you were analysts, were you? We were management consultants. Management consultants at Ernst & Young, big organization. Doing big tech projects with sort of FTSE 100 companies, S &P 500 companies, that kind of thing. And we originally left to do something entirely different. so I raised a small amount of seed funding to do a food tech startup so we did that in 2017 food tech so what does that what does that involve so I mean you going back 10 years so you kind of have to cast your mind back to how things were in 2017 what didn't did not exist so this was right at the kind of nascent point where things like Gusto and HelloFresh and those kind of businesses were just starting to get going.
2:40And myself working in professional services, commuting every day, thought there was a more interesting way of doing that that had less friction. So those were subscription-based, delivery-based businesses where you sign up for a subscription and get four meals a week in a great big box with loads of packaging and all of that stuff. So the concept with the food business was to do that but through small hubs that would be at big commuter stations. So at Farringdon Station, at Clapham Junction, that kind of thing. And the idea was there was much less of a time delay. You could get to 5 p.m., you're leaving the office, you've got nothing for dinner, and instead of going to the Tesco Express and scratching around and going like, well, what am I going to throw together?
3:24You would actually go on a map on your phone, pick from a recipe card and say, okay, I want to do this recipe, I want to do it for three people, and by the time you then get to the station 10 minutes later it's picked and packed ready to go for you just the ingredients that you need no wastage no requirement for you know big freezer blocks and all of that kind of stuff that goes along with it so i think i was invested in the idea i like it sort of felt like a very academically clean idea there's going to be less waste you could optimize for exactly the ingredients that you needed that allowed you to do the most number of recipes but you could get high quality stuff because you were doing a small number of ingredients and we got that up and running i think we probably delivered our first recipe within six weeks of getting the the company going very manual heavy lift on our behalf and in the end we only really ran it for about six months so i think we probably started in the summer and by Christmas, we said, you know what, we'll come back after a break and we'll take a view on whether we want to carry on with this.
4:31And as it happens, we both came back and we said, like, okay, you go first. I think we should call it. And it wasn't because people didn't like it, but I think people didn't love it. And I think we, for the unit economics to work, and I think for us to be really motivated to push on with it, we felt like we needed people coming back, you know, three times a week. you know saying like i love this i'm going to get stuff and the best customers were coming back maybe twice and modeling it out it was very hard to see how you could get this thing to scale and to ever be profitable with that kind of customer attention so so people didn't love it i think that's an interesting observation they liked it they didn't love it they liked it didn't love it sufficient impetus around it i think when you're when you're when you're very early on in a sort of startup journey, you almost need that energy coming from your customers to keep you going.
5:28And I think you obviously believe in your own idea. You believed in it enough to quit your job and raise a bit of money and put your own sort of ego on the line a little bit because people are obviously surprised when you leave and they ask what you're doing. But you kind of need that feedback to keep you motivated in the idea. And I think we both felt like we could spend our time better on something else. and there was also a sense of we'd raised this seed funding we hadn't really spent any of it and to get it to the next level of testing we would have had to deploy basically all of that money and at that point as you well know with you know early stage bootstrap seed funding is typically it's friends and family and not professional investors money to put that kind of money at risk when you think the chance of success is how much money we talk about here How much do you have left?
6:18It was 250K we'd raised. Yeah. And I think by the end, we'd spent maybe 30K. So all credit to you. So you decided to pivot and do something else with the money. So we - Did you have to ask for their sort of support? We returned the money. So we said, we're going to wind this up. We don't know what we're going to do next. Because a lot of times that doesn't happen. And I think it's something that I've seen in other people, both before that point and since where you've i think in your heart you know that it's not right and you know you haven't quite got the traction you want and probably it's not going to work but you're sort of stuck in the i've committed to it now so i'm going to keep going and the longer you go the harder it gets to take that step back and go yes that is good i've seen that you know the more people put into something and even more dogged you feel like you built up this sort of external pressure on yourself to make this thing work um so i think yeah in hindsight we're both very glad that we did call it so you called that your food tech business yeah and then how did you come to pivot to watches we pivoted within probably two weeks to watches and i think it was in hindsight an easy decision so we were both independently liked watches you know we had watches ourselves we'd had some experience with the watch industry in the pre-owned sense so you had a little collection a little collection you know nothing major while you were working at yes yeah you know gifts from family and these kinds of things and i personally had had bad experience with some other pre-owned players and i think it the nice thing and the thing that it still makes me as passionate about this today almost nine years later as i was back at the start is it is a brilliant intersection of all of the things that we care about so it is a passion product.
8:10Watches is something I personally enjoy, get a lot of pleasure from looking at collecting, doing all that kind of stuff. But it sits across technology and data and a type of customer who is doing this not because they have to, but because they want to. And that is, if you're like me, most passionate about building a tech product, that intersection of something where you get to build for someone who's doing it for passion, and if you do a good job, will be back on a weekly basis or even a daily basis, browsing the site, looking at new stuff, trying new features. There's not many other things I think we could think of that hit all of those kind of boxes.
8:50So you both came to this sort of... We both came to this conclusion. How did that happen? Were you in a cafe or a pub or...? We were sat in Christie's house. Yeah, we were sat in Christie's house, which we'd, through his very patient housemates, kind of taken over as the hub of the food business because he had slightly more space than I did. And so we were running the, you know, picking and packing of bags and all of that kind of stuff from there. And we, yeah, I think we probably for about a week, we sat down on a daily basis and got a whiteboard and sort of ran through different ideas and tested them out a bit and said, well, do we think this has got legs?
9:26And with watches, as I say, a lot of things clicked. And I think crucially, it's not, you have a nice idea, but you also got to think, do we have any advantage here? Is there something that we think we have or know? And what was that in your minds at that time? It was the data and the technology. So I'd done a lot of data projects in the previous six years at Ernst & Young. And so we looked at the market and said, there's something here. If you can collect enough data and process that data well enough, understand the demand for a particular watch model, you should be able to trade that almost like a commodity, but in a way that gives a better result for both the buyer and the seller.
10:10And so if you take a typical transaction that we would do where we are actually buying the watch, we do do consignments as well, but we're acting almost like a market maker in the middle. So customer submits their Rolex and mariner 2020 box and papers we would put that through the model and we would say we know or believe that that watch will sell for within this price range of let's say 500 pounds and nine times out of 10 it will sell within 30 days and if you've got those two things you know what it's going to sell for and you know how quickly it's going to sell you can decide your spread so you can say i'm confident in that and it's a tight window so i'm going to take a tight spread i can give the seller more money than for something else where I say, this might take up to six months to sell and the range is really unpredictable because there isn't the data to support the thesis.
11:02Right. And so the idea... So the more watches that you sell, the more informed you become. Exactly. And the more data we collect. So it's not only our own data, although the first party data is always the best kind of data, but it's everyone else's data too. So we collect on a daily basis about 750 ,000 listing records. Pull those down. From all over the world. From all over the world, yeah. From every major platform, every major dealer. And we pull that down and we process it to say, what watch is this? Because you need to pin it back to something. But on your site, if you're looking, the watch is a price, as I understand it, a specific price.
11:43Yes. So it's not like you're making a bid for them. No. So you decide that price. This is what we're using to inform our buying. So when someone offers us a watch, they say, I'd like to sell this. We're using that data to say, okay, we could pay you X to buy that today. Or if they were looking to consign it, or if we would advise them to consign it, then we're using that same data to say, put this with us. It's a£200 ,000 Patek. Our previous transactions and the market says this is the right point to price this watch. And if we price it correctly, it will sell within, let's say, 45 days. And that's very different to how most people in this market approach it.
12:25So you can really categorize it into two buckets. Either you've got traditional dealers who are purchasing, and the first question they will ask when you bring your watch in is, how much do you want for it? Which for us had always been the entirely wrong question. The question is, how much am I willing to pay for it? I'm the professional, or I should be, with all of the data. And so I should be telling you, the client, what it's worth, and therefore what I could pay for it. And we've always tried to be transparent about those two things. I understand you have a good story about that. We do. Tell me that story.
12:59Yeah, so this was actually very early on. So it was still just the two of us back in our first office. We're now on our third. and we were approached by a gentleman who had seen an advert that we placed in print media in a magazine called The Oldie. And I think the advert said something like, got an old watch, you know, question mark, call Sabdal. And he'd, I think initially dropped us an email and the email had a photograph attached. He said, I've got this watch. I saw your advert in The Oldie. I love that magazine. What do you think? And I thought initially someone was pulling a leg because I looked at the picture and I recognized the, not the exact watch, but I recognized the model and the configuration from a Philips auction, which had happened maybe eight months before.
13:52And that watch had gone for big, big money, hundreds of thousands of pounds. As I was saying, the chances of someone just having this watch is so slim. And the pictures weren't very good, but it's worth a while at least following up. So I'd send a polite response and said, oh, can you send me some better pictures and give me a bit of the background of the watch? And he'd come back with a very long email with all of the context. And at that point, I started to think, this might actually be real. And so the long and the short of the watch is it's a Rolex Daytona from the 70s, which in and of themselves are already a pretty popular, a pretty valuable watch so with no backstory to it it probably would have been a 60 000 pound watch anyway um but what was particularly eye-catching about this one is it had the amani uh red kanjar symbol printed on the dial which is something with rolex you you never see because they're very reluctant to customize watches for individual clients in a way that a lot of other brands would but they had in that period done a number of customizations for the Imani royal family.
15:02And this particular one, this already sought after Daytona reference with this Imani Kanja on the dial, you know, maybe there's 10 in the world. And one of them had gone to auction, but the location of the other ones wasn't known. And the story of the gentleman who brought it to us was he was part of the British sort of force that had gone out there after the change in leadership in the royal family. And I think the father had come over here, the son had taken over, and the son had then requested that a number of the British Armed Forces go out there and help train up their first fighter pilots because they had no air force at that point.
15:41So they bought the planes. This guy was a commander in the RAF and had gone out there to train the pilots and had been sort of in charge of that division. And then towards the end of his, I think his second tour, received a telegram from the royal family saying, would you come to the palace? We'd like to present you with a gift at the end of your service, and this watch he'd be presented with. And this gentleman had kept everything. He had the telegrams. He had the epaulettes with the can jars. He had photos of him in a barn. But this is important keeping everything, isn't it? I mean, because it never happens.
16:15So these watches come up to market. Now, because the watch market has become more and more established, and these types of watches are super collectible, but it'll be the third collector who's owned that watch. And so it's sort of known. And they know it's an example, but they might be worried that someone sort of almost tried to make it better and they sort of added bits in. This is coming from original owner with all of the... You could not dispute it given the telegram and everything else. It just never happens. So that made it particularly special and we ended up selling it to a collector who, as part of the deal, said, would it be possible for me to take the gentleman out for lunch and just hear his story and do all of that stuff?
16:58And he was very, very happy to do it. In fact, I think he loved the whole experience. So how much was it worth this watch? We were not allowed to, part of the agreement was also that we would not disclose how much it went for, but it was well into the six figures. And I think it was a life-changing amount of money for... Very good for his pension. Very good for his pension. and I think at that point his wife was actually able to retire and they took us out for lunch in London to say. A lot of happy people involved. A lot of happy people, yeah. It was fantastic, yeah. So what you said earlier, which struck me, it wasn't how much do you want for this watch.
17:34You were establishing what it was worth. And he benefited from that approach. He said to us through the process that he'd taken it to his local Rolex service centre, where he'd been wearing this watch at the pub. not knowing what it was. Right. And he'd taken it in for its sort of regular service. And the guy at the, I don't know whether this was an authorized Rolex retailer or not, it was just some local guy, but he had offered to buy it from him. I think he'd offered him£8 ,000. Right. And maybe he didn't know, but I would be surprised if he didn't know. Yeah. And that, I think, is the thing that we absolutely wanted to fight against the whole way through is this mindset of using information as power.
18:21Because we've got probably more data around trading than anyone else. And there's a temptation to say, well, great, we can use that to our advantage because we know something that you don't. So I was very struck looking at your website about the variety and number of watches that you have on Subdial today for sale. And the amount of knowledge that you must have about each particular brand and watch specifically is incredible because they're all priced specifically. So this is from your data analysis days back in Ernst & Young, you've built this. It's a mixture of both. It's a mixture of two things.
18:58It is incredible the amount of information there. On the data side, I think there is a real joy to having that data to hand because it does allow us to buy more confidently than most people. And so the fact that we have more variety is a direct consequence of that. So you bring me something that's a little more esoteric than a Rolex sports watch, we still have the data on that. And so even if it trades less frequently than a Rolex, we can say every time that it's sold globally for the last seven years, pretty much, other than transactions that are happening offline. And so we can still price that with a fair degree of confidence.
19:37And that means we will pay more for stuff that other people would say either way i can't i can't buy that or i'm just gonna you know really lowball you because they're hedging their bets and fair enough if you don't know you've got to take a safe position um so that's one benefit of it for sure and i think it's why we over you know the sort of last eight years have really shifted towards a more enthusiastic collector market because we have that breadth and we're happy to trade that breadth the other side is the team so we absolutely pride ourselves on hiring people who are watch nuts. And most of the people who come to us, a lot of people who come to us are not coming from the watch industry.
20:18So they're actually similar to Christian and myself. They've worked in finance or law or professional services, but they love watches. And so they see an opportunity to do a bit of a career shift and do something that they really love every day, which is great for us. They bring some different kind of expertise into the business, but also they take that intrinsic joy out of coming to work every day because they're doing something that they love and so it's a mixture of the two i think the human side particularly on the sort of rare and more collectible pieces is incredibly important you know not you can't tell everything from the data and the sudden things that i think uh people within our team are very good at spotting which is trends that are emerging in the market things that are becoming more talked about more interesting and you won't necessarily see that in the numbers yet that's really interesting so i mean i feel that for people who don't know sub dial it deserves a little description i don't know who better to do that than you ross i mean so first of all where do people find you at sub dial is the brand dot com sub dial dot com yeah so tell us what's there just quickly so so people might want to go and have a look it's it's buy sell collect is really the the three things that we're about so buying we've got uh probably up to a thousand watches live on the site at any given time a huge variety as you said we are not necessarily selective about what we buy we buy everything from our customers so we don't go out to wholesale and buy up from other dealers and do that kind of thing.
21:55Everything that we have has been offered to it by our customers. But the nice thing, if you've got great customers, you get great watches. And the more great watches you have, the more great watches those customers bring to you. So there's a kind of positive cycle that goes on there. It's a virtual circle, yeah. We offer two routes to sell. So you bring a watch to us, we will offer to buy it off you directly or we can consign it for you and because we've got this focus on the lifetime of the collector so most of our customers are thinking about buying a watch pretty much 100 % of the time maybe they maybe they buy a watch once a year maybe they buy a watch 10 times a year maybe they do it more but always they're thinking about what would be my next watch they've got watches in their collection and so to buy that next watch often they're looking to sell right and so there's a lot of um trading that goes on and so we put a lot of effort in the platform to making that process as seamless as possible so you find a listing you like you've got your watches that you're looking to sell you upload those and you can kind of build a virtual uh trade where you say okay it's going to kind of 60 000 pounds to buy the one or two watches that i like but i've got 40 000 pounds in my collection so i can trade those out top up the difference and make it as easy as possible so the platform is really built around the the buying process the selling process but the collection sits in the middle so you have your collection on the platform your collection leverages the data so when you say you have your collection on the platform what do you mean so if you buy from if you buy a watch from subdile tomorrow it will go straight into your digital sub-dial portfolio and it will be tracked the the price will be tracked through our market data portfolio for your customers yes but you don't have to buy a watch from sub-dial so if you bought a watch from someone else or you bought it directly from rolex new you can still upload it and you say okay it's this model it's this year it's got its box and papers and the pricing still gets pulled in so regardless of where you got it you might have a big existing collection you can add it there have the prices tracked for everything you can also ensure your collection do various other things request servicing right um but really what it is about for most people is then having it there ready to go when they see the next watch that they want so you see the next watch that you want and you've already got your collection there you've got indicative pricing because you've got the market data and so you say okay it's going to be this one this one this one these are the ones i haven't worn for six months but it's sort of sitting there virtually isn't it because you've taken the watch home i imagine you might be wearing it to the pub yes exactly Exactly, yes.
24:34So to sell it, you have to bring it back in. So at the point where you're happy with the proposal, so you say, okay, let's say you're doing a trade. I'm happy with what I'm paying. I'm happy with what I'm being offered for the stuff that I'm selling. You click book, and then either you're making an appointment to come in, drop everything off, pick up what you're collecting, or we arrange the shipping. So we would have shipping packs sent out, bring those watches in, inspect them, approve them, and then ship your watch out. so there's a lot of logistics involved there so you also have as as well as this being online on a wonderful website you also have a shop is that the right word what do you call it house clubhouse yes so what happens there how does that work so the clubhouse we launched uh pretty recently so we launched in uh may last year uh so about one year in to the new space in farrington and that That was really a reaction to two things.
25:33So one, we'd just outgrown our previous premises, which was in Hoxton. Had a lovely space on the canal, which was lovely for the team, great for me living in Hackney. But we did not have a dedicated customer space, so we hosted people there. But every time someone came down, we'd basically be apologizing because we're bringing you into our office, and it may be chaotic, and there's dogs running around, and all of this kind of thing. so the move to to farrington was to facilitate the growth and the additional team but it was also to for the first time have a proper dedicated customer space and that is by appointment only anything you see on the site that you like and one of you you can book an appointment and come in and see it anything that you are selling you can book an appointment come and drop it off or do both.
26:21And it's been absolutely transformational for us. I think when we set this up, we did see it as an online-only business, and it is still primarily. It's 75 % takes place online. But there is a really important place for face-to-face in this market in particular. I think in most luxury markets, there's still an important place for face-to-face. And we try to make that experience a special one for customers when they come in it should feel a bit unique it should feel a bit subtle it shouldn't feel like going to a bond street boutique not that there's anything wrong with the experience when you go to a bond street boutique but that's not who we are as a company and so when you come in the first thing that you see you walk over a bridge where you know you've been to the office you walk over that bridge and you've got the workshop down below you with a glass floor and you see the watchmakers working on the watches and that i think was something we used to have at the old office because we were quite compact and we didn't want to lose when we moved here.
27:20Because I think when you're buying a pre-owned watch, you want to know that the people selling it to you care and that they're not just flipping these things as quickly as possible for a profit, but they're actually taking the time, they're inspecting them, authenticating them, working on them, servicing them, all those kinds of things. So we invested in the workshop, got accreditation now from most of the major luxury groups, which is incredibly helpful for sourcing parts and all of that but it's also an event space so outside of the day-to-day appointments people buying and selling we host events in that space we've got one coming up which i don't think i can quite announce yet but with one of the big swiss brands where they will be launching or relaunching one of their product lines in the space and that's a kind of collaborative effort and it's a way for us to utilize the space amazing for us to be selected by the brand to do that but it also gives them the opportunity to tap into our collector customer base which is slightly different to what you would get as a primary retailer you know these are people who might not have your brand or might not be that familiar with your brand but they've got other brands which absolutely mean they could be a good customer for you so what is your primary customer base you mentioned that i mean who are they it's um it's anywhere from someone who's got one or two watches and is just sort of starting out and they bought their first watch maybe they never thought they would be a enthusiast but they find that they actually quite like that watch and they so they start looking around and seeing other other things that catch their eye all the way through to people who've got you know multi-million pound collections of watches and they've got pretty much every patek that's ever been made and i think every patek was ever been made how many are they well there's there's many there's many but i think but people actually have collections like that yeah it's it's it's a labor of love and a labor it's a big investment to work your way up that food chain yes with the big brands to be offered the pieces.
29:24So when Patek released the 5811, the new white gold Nautilus, there's only so many made, they are genuinely limited by production, and there's an awful lot of people that want them. So everything is sort of by allocation. So the price must go up almost immediately then? For a lot of these pieces, it does. Yeah. So for the most sought after Rolex, for the most sought after Patek, the day that you leave the showroom, the watch might be worth double what you paid for on the secondary market. It's the opposite of buying a car. It's the opposite of buying the vast majority of cars. Unless you're getting one of these one-off collector's items again.
30:01Exactly, yes. Yeah, and so the watch market does, I mean, it fits in both categories. Some areas behave more like the car market. You know, if you buy, I'm not going to name and shame any particular brand, but you might go in and pay retail price for a£6 ,000 sports watch. And the day that you leave, the VAT is gone for sure. but really like if you're going to sell it you probably you've lost 30 40 percent of your money and so there's a there is a certain pool of customers who will go pre-owned simply to save that money because exactly like you would in cars you buy at six months old but i'd say the majority particularly of our customers it's not it's not really about saving money it's about getting the watch that you want and most of the watches that are the most interesting are not in production you know so there's it's almost like the art market in that sense there's certain new watches that are being released every year, but there's 50 years of watches that have been made, which people collect, which are not in production anymore.
30:56And so if you're only collecting the things that are coming out every week, you're missing a big chunk of the market. And so I think that's where it sort of blends into collectability and it's not just about pre-owned and making a discount or the grey market, I think, as people would have previously handled it. You talk about your customers. I'm imagining they're mainly male. yes and could often work in the city yes is that right i mean people have certain sort of focus i mean we have we have all absolutely all types i would say we are very well represented in that demographic that you've just described and we're well located for that demographic yeah well that's why you're in faringdon i guess they can come easy to see yeah faringdon's brilliant for connections to almost everywhere um but i just think that's similar the world over isn't it i I mean, people who collect watches in Japan or America would be similarly discussed.
31:50It is dominated by that sort of demographic. It is changing, which is brilliant. How is it changing? So I think we've seen more younger customers of late. So, you know, mid-20s through to mid-30s and more female customers. And I think those two things are two areas that have been historically quite underrepresented. Now, there is obviously for a younger buyer, a price point that you've got to get over. And if you're early in your career, that could be more challenging. But I think the nice thing about watches is actually it's not a particularly expensive hobby if you can get over that initial purchase price.
32:29And I'll tell you what I mean by that. So it would be crazy to buy a watch for£1 ,000,£3 ,000 or£30 ,000 if you believed that that money was gone. You know, that was consumption. but I think almost all of our clients absolutely do not think of it like that you think of it as well this thing is a is a is an asset in its own right maybe I'll sell it for less maybe I'll sell it for more maybe I'll sell it for the same but you know that you can get your money back and I think a big part of the buying decision is that is having that confidence that the price is right and that when you come to sell it you can sell it with with relatively low so it's a sort of alternative to having cash in the bank or having a few shares in a company exactly bonds or something like that you have watches.
33:09Yes and I think that there's a healthy way of looking at that and there's an unhealthy way of looking at that. Most people are in a fairly healthy place. What's the unhealthy way of looking at it? The unhealthy way of looking at it was what happened post-COVID. What happened? Where I mean it was in watches but it was in a lot of other asset classes as well where people were at home they had more disposable income maybe they're getting some government checks and all assets were going up and I think a lot of people felt like they were all they were always go up. It followed a lot of the tech stocks, the crypto prices.
33:45Watches probably came to it one of the last. So if you trace the curves on the different asset class, I think Watches would have been one of the last to go up. But they all popped, right? They reached a peak post-COVID. I can't tell you the exact date, but you can see it on our data page when it hits the peak and it's a fairly sharp inflection point and then prices came right down so you had a bubble there was a bubble and it was i think it was it was brought about by a few things a lot of new people coming into the market so new buyers who saw it and previously been into watches but thought well this is a quick way to make some money and that for a period was true you could buy uh nautilus on one day and you pay 40 000 pounds for it maybe you sell it in a month and it was 60 ,000 pounds and that you think well that's brilliant I'll just do that but you're not going to earn a living like that forever I suppose because at some point the bubble burst bubble bursts yeah and indeed it did there was also a lot of inter-dealer trading at that point so because actually it's a relatively scarce commodity although sometimes it can seem like there's a lot of watches out there it doesn't take that much of a change in buying behavior for prices to suddenly move quite quickly.
34:58And so if you imagine a particular model reference, and this was focused in on certain models, probably like 50 models that were really the brunt of this bubble. If someone is buying at every given point on any given day the cheapest on the market as a dealer, they go like, well, we need one of these. So I'm going to go out and see which is the cheapest, and I'm going to buy that. Now the reference price is the next one. And then the next dealer comes along and goes, well, I'm going to buy that. and now the reference price has gone up and if that's happening quickly enough it snowballs quite quickly we were fortunate enough i guess that we weren't heavily invested in those particular models we were taking a slightly more cautious and data-led approach and not buying we never buy from other dealers anyway um so when that bubble burst we were not particularly exposed but i know it was a it was a it was a rough time for the market um i know a bunch of dealers went out of business and a bunch of actually well-backed venture watch companies went out of business through that period because they were sat on a huge amount of inventory which was now worth you know 40 % less than what they paid for it yeah so that's quite high risk so this is this is interesting to me though that you track the like it's like a market footsie tracker for watches and you do this i believe with bloomberg yes um so what's it doing at the moment where are we at the moment or so which market looking like with all this going on in the world we're back to a fairly healthy market actually so the the post-covid bubble is well in the rearview mirror we had steady price deflation for probably two years after that right and the last 12 months, we've seen a return to a steady and gradual level of price inflation, so 5 % a year.
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36:49And actually, if you look back over 20 years in the watch market, that is the average. So watches have been an appreciating asset for a long time, but they've never been an investment in the sense of you expect to be able to buy it and double your money in a year. That's an unrealistic expectation to come with. But the idea that you can buy it, hold it, sell it in five years' time and make your money back, that's a realistic thing to believe. And you might be a bit wrong. You might do better than you think. But if you take that as a baseline, you're in a fairly healthy place. And so we absolutely never advise people to buy things.
37:28And we do get asked, which one of these is the better investment? And the answer is neither. You should buy the one that you enjoy because you can't lose that way you'll enjoy wearing it for the next x number of years and what will be will be when you come to sell it um you shouldn't i mean people can do what they want but i would never advise someone to buy simply because they think it's a good investment yeah so so that in a way that's those speculators around the time of the post-covid bubble were sort of literally hoping to get a quick buck or quick return. Yes, as they were in almost every market.
38:06Yeah, where they saw an opportunity, but that's gone, and now it's back to a more sort of stable but appreciating market. Yes, and I think in the meantime, a few people maybe stuck around in the market who previously wouldn't have been there, so I think the customer base did grow over that period. and I think we were talking about demographics earlier I think probably the last you know 18 months I think we've seen a bit of an acceleration in that as well you know you get actors like timothy chalamet investing in um watch brands and making a big deal out of what they're wearing when they're on the red carpet and I think there just is a bit of a groundswell of interest in it as a as an expression of your identity, as a thing to own, as whatever it is you want to see it as.
38:52But I think for us that's great because it brings a new type of person into the market. So some questions around the business model. You said people can consign watches to you and you'll sell them on their behalf, I suppose. What would you charge for that? How does that work? So that works on a tiered basis. So we really try and encourage people to stick with us for the long run. And in return for that, they get ever cheaper consignment rates. So when you start with us, you start as a bronze tier, and it's 12 % plus fat to consign, which is still one of the cheapest rates that you will find anywhere and with the best service in my view.
39:28So you take 12 % of the sale achieved. And for that, you're getting free collection, inspections, insurance. We add a warranty to the watch. We will polish it free of charge, do all of the sales process handle the payment fees which could be you know two percent five percent so all you've got to do is get the watch to you all you've got to do in fact we will pick it up so all you've got to do is book it on and then someone will turn up your house collect the watch and we'll take care of the rest of the process if you're trading with us on a really frequent basis and you're doing high values that 12 goes all the way down to six so that's a gold standard that's a black tier customer back to so we've got uh bronze silver gold and black and to get to black tier you really have to be trading like a bit of a nut but but we've got quite a few people who do get to that level and then you're taking six percent at six percent of that that's yeah and and what about when you buy the watch what do you look for as a sort of margin that will depend on the demand for that watch what you think you can sell it and how quickly right yeah yeah so we we don't take a fixed margin approach and deliberately so because i think that's how a of other people will operate and it it means that you don't buy the things that really you want the most and potentially you actually overpay for things that you don't particularly want so by looking at both the speed and the price we come to the margin so we say if we're going to sell this really fast and we're confident in that the margin will come all the way down to basically a consignment rate at which point there's not really any uh anything to pick between the two routes if we're less confident in it the margin goes up because we're saying we might be holding this for six months and we've got to pay for that inventory so from the seller's point of view i suppose if you go the second route they've been paid off straight away and they know what they're getting yes with the with the consignment route you you're relying on finding a buyer yes and that might take a while or it might not happen even so there's less certainty but you know you might get more money in the end we can guide them with our data as to what the likelihood of sale is and we will always guide them to price it on the true market price so you will like uh i guess similar to property market if you take your um commission to sell your house out to a bunch of agents they've got slightly competing incentives to get the commission but then also to sell the house and And they, first of all, want to get the commission because then they can slowly bring the price down to actually make the transaction happen.
42:03But you do get people in the watch market and like every other market that will just over promise. And they'll say, oh, your watch is brilliant. Yeah, that's worth£100 ,000. The reality is they're not selling at£100 ,000. They're selling at, let's say,£80 ,000. And we can see that on the data and we can prove that to a client. We can show them the records of the ones that are moving and the ones that are sat. And so they'll say, but what about this one? This one's at£100 ,000. where you can say that particular listing has been there for 1 ,062 days. If that's what you want your watch to do, we can do that.
42:30It's like the job vacancies in reverse. You know, employers who don't put enough salary on their vacancies sit there for longer than if someone's prepared to pay a bit more. Yeah, so it comes down to like, you know, are you really serious about selling it? If so, this is where it should be priced. You need to engage with the market and be fully informed as to what the rates are. You've got to be realistic, yeah. So customers, when they've been with us for a while, they tend to migrate to doing more consignment because they just get more back. You get a better return in almost every scenario and their rates come down.
42:59And so that's good too. Where we tend to buy most stock is when people are trading because then you need that immediate liquidity. And that's another good housing market analogy that if you're stuck in a chain and you need to sell this to buy this, it's no good for anyone because everyone sort of has found the thing that they want, but the transaction can't quite complete because no one's able to take the capital position in the middle and kind of unlock all of those different things to happen and so that we absolutely see as being our role and it's why we operate both models even though it you know it does add some complexity to operating the business i think it gives the best experience to the most people so there's a lot a lot of forgive the pun moving parts in this business but the the um i mean you you have to have a lot of different knowledge points to make it to make it work So what do you find that your principal challenges are running Subdile?
43:53What are the things that maybe keep you awake at night? So honestly, I think our biggest challenge has been keeping focused. I mean, there are a lot of moving parts even to keep the core business on track. You know, logistics, watchmaking, sales, marketing, you know, all of those things that you would have in any business that's selling consumer goods. But ours are pre-owned. And so that comes with its own challenges. you're having to negotiate every single item that arrives with us. There's some form of negotiation. You're not buying a thousand of these things and negotiating once. And you're not photographing once.
44:27If you are selling a brand new Amiga, you take one set of photographs, you put a lot of effort into them, and then you sell a thousand of them off the back of those photos. Every single watch that comes to us is photographed a new, fresh picture of that watch. And I would like to believe that the photos we take are as good, if not better, the most that you would find from the brand. when they're only selling that thing one time. So you have a photo studio in your Clark and Well Clubhouse? We've got a photo studio. We've got photographers. We've got an incredible photo process, which has been set up by our head of creative, which makes the whole thing as seamless as it can be, including lifestyle photography, where we've got people in the team modeling the watches and all of that stuff.
45:05So it is a lot, but I think we, probably myself and Christy as founders, are a little bit restless to always try something new. and I think that the challenge for us has been to keep focused and not actually try and do too many things all at once, you know, try and compete on every front all at the same time, which I think we've got better at as the years have gone on. We've become more focused on really what the business is about and it's that buy, sell, collect, trade side of it. You've also got very valuable stock that you're holding. I mean, have you had any problems with shrinkage as it used to be called in retail?
45:42No. Have you lost any or anything disappeared? Have you enjoyed that happening? As you can imagine, laser focused on that. So we have put a lot of effort, obviously, into security. Every single person who comes down for an appointment has to do a digital identity check in advance. So we take physical security incredibly seriously. We also keep extremely robust records of where everything is. So any movement of any watch within the premises is scanned. and so at any given point you could you could say within one square foot where an individual watch is including its box and papers and i think that that's just it's required for efficiency and it's required for security right so there's a great attention to detail with that and the the um customers i mean when you're sending them out i mean there must be some sort of concern about shipping as well you know because the customers aren't necessarily coming to you that you're sending i mean have you managed how do you manage to make that sort of copper bottom that i think is the the comfort that you take from buying from a big established company and you know that the same would be true if you went to watch the switzerland or watch finder that you're you're buying into the the trust that that brand is going to get that thing to you and if they don't they're going to make it right and so we have block insurance coverage from the minute it leaves us to the minute it's in the buyer's hands and if anything happens courier drops it uh on route then that's all covered and that that's a really important part of it obviously and i think it's particularly important when you're getting into this early on in your kind of watches journey these things really stress you out as they should as a buyer and seller as a buyer and a seller you know authenticity is a big question for them uh how's the insurance work how do i know who i'm handing over to all of these things so that's been uh something that we've refined over the last eight years and and thankfully have now got a supply chain process that works really efficiently and without shrinkage as you put well i mean i'm happy to share with our listeners that you've got 4.9 on Google reviews and five on Trustpilot.
47:59So you clearly have sort of got that nailed down. I'm very proud of that. I mean, you should be. It's hard to get five on Trustpilot, and there are lots of reviews. So is there anything we should be thinking about as watches and asset class? Because we had a very interesting guest just recently who was making lab-made diamonds, Natalie Morrison. and she was saying that she didn't see them as an asset class any longer if indeed they ever had been she says you know there are lots of diamonds and now you can manufacture them you're going to be making more and more high-end diamonds people shouldn't think of them as an asset class which in a sense surprised me because i always thought you know diamond was a valuable thing to hold on to um it seems to me watches have managed to sort of carry on as an asset class from what you're saying and do you see that as a sort of divergence and do you see that as something that will continue into the future i think so i mean so i think the nice thing the thing that works about watches as a let's say a store of value as opposed to an investment is they are homogenous enough that you can track to an individual sort of sku level a relatively accurate price point and you You can then trade in and out of it relatively frictionlessly.
49:26And that's very much the core premise of SubDial, is to make that more frictionless and to make that transaction cost lower. And that by doing so, you actually increase the number of transactions that are happening because otherwise you would have gone, well, I'm going to lose 40 % when I sell it. And so I won't. But now if I can do that slightly cheaper, maybe I'll do this more frequently. um but i think the the confidence that you have about your ability to exit that thing at will is crucial to it so you know uh collectible cars are an asset class or art is an asset class but the level of expertise and connection that is required to trade your art efficiently and really know what your particular version of this painting, because there is no homogeneity unless it's a print, is worth, is actually makes the whole thing a bit of a headache for the average person where this is not their job.
50:24You know, they're just like, they just quite like paintings. And so actually using that as a store of value becomes a little bit stressful. You don't think, well, I could just draw down on this one. I need to do my extension. Whereas watches, you pretty much, you can, you know, you might be - So it's more liquid in a sense as a store of value. It's not cash, but it's closer to cash than a bank. Exactly that. You've got some confidence that should push come to shove, you can liquidate those things for a pretty well-determined price point and actually have money in your bank account within 48 hours.
50:59And that, I think, makes it very attractive to people. And if you're on your platform, on your collector's platform, you can see basically what it's valued at in real time. In real time, exactly. Yeah, so I think as a store of value, as an alternative place to put some money, I think it's ever-growing in popularity. There absolutely are people who are now coming into watches in the same way as they've come into gold bullion and coins and these kind of things, because they're looking for ways to diversify their portfolio in a way that's a hedge against inflation or it's a hedge against other macroeconomic uncertainty.
51:38and I think they're seen as a collectible class but a collectible class where the barrier to entry is relatively low in terms of expertise. Yeah no that's really interesting and there are so many things we need to hedge against at the moment I can see the attraction of this. So just looking back over your career and you know starting the business sub-dial back in 2018 you know reflecting when you think about it what's been the hardest part of building this business for you and your team i mean it's changed year to year i think that the biggest strategic challenge for us has always been keeping us focused on the things that really matter to grow the business i think the hardest part day to day is is keeping all of the plates spinning you know there's an awful lot of moving parts in this business and i think it requires an incredibly good and supportive team to keep everything going and i think you know christy and i are not in the in the minutiae of all of the operations now as we would have been you know five years ago and a lot of that credit goes to the people that we brought into the team and now run loads departments without you know any real oversight required you've used the word focus and the important and stress the importance of being focused more than once i mean what are the distractions that are threatening that then is it your entrepreneurial mind thinking why don't we try this or is it it is customers or what is it is i i i think both probably christy and myself are fairly competitive people in slightly different ways and i you know when you see someone else doing something i think we almost have a slightly hubristic sense that well we can do that better and so we'll take stuff on that isn't necessarily you know core to what we're doing we'll build things instead of buy things in ways that may make me think you could have just bought that you know right into the deep operations of the business we've got very much a build first approach uh and i think that's getting ever more tempting so you can build faster now with ai with ai than you could ever build previously and that's fantastic and you can build better quality software than you could build previously but it makes keeping focused on the things that you should be building even more important because the cost and the time to deliver new stuff has gone you could just build this over here and try something else exactly and you're yeah and in the end you end up with kind of spaghetti both for yourself and for your customers where they're not really clear what is what am i supposed to be doing here what is it that you guys do so that's a core reflection keeping focused on what the customer is most interested yes and why they come to us versus coming to someone else Yeah.
54:18The other aspect you mentioned was building a team. How have you gone about that? How do you sort of look for people? What sort of people are you? So we try to, the phrase that I often use is we have a good egg first hiring strategy, which is hire for personality first. Good egg first. Good egg first. Okay, I haven't heard that before. I like it. Is this a person that I would want to spend time with and trust to have around, are they a good egg, first and foremost? Because if they are not, then everything else is irrelevant. They may be the smartest person I've ever met. They may be incredibly good at data finance, whatever it is that we're hiring them for.
55:01But fundamentally, if we don't believe in the values of that person, that person's values don't align with our own, then we're off to a very bad start. up so taking that to one side let's assume that everyone that we've got into the interview process is then a good egg having some passion for watches having a clear understanding of what it's like working in a you know small early stage startup with you know a lot that's going on people that are stretched across multiple areas and not the level you know if you're coming from a big corporate there will not be the all the support structures in place that you might be used to there'll be other things which are brilliant there'll be flexibility there'll be you know management visibility and speed of change the things that are you know i think attract people to working in smaller companies but i think we always try and make it very clear what people should and should not expect when they come to work for us and if they're accepting a job you know hopefully they're familiar with that um and then it's obviously you know competence for what it is that they're actually doing so i mean when you're interviewing people and hiring people and also meeting people what's something about the watch market that most people misunderstand so i think if you're not a watch person most people would look at the watch market as a whole and maybe see it as a sort of frivolous or slightly crazy world when they look at the price points and i think in pre-owned in particular if you're not familiar with the watch market you know people will see it in the same way as they would see pre-owned cars you They'd see it as the sort of lesser version, the sort of like slightly grubby sibling to the primary market.
56:42This is where people go to get the one that's lost its box and papers, and so it's a bit cheaper, or it's the last year's model line, and so it's a bit, get a bit of a discount. And I think what that misses is that actually this is where the most interesting stuff is happening. That's where all of the most expensive sales are happening is in the secondary market because it's where the rarest and most collectible stuff is. and all of the other stuff as well. You know, for absolutely, you can get great deals. You can get things that are a fraction of the cost of you. So the secondary market's where the bigger prices are achieved.
57:14It's where the bigger prices are achieved, you know, at auction. I didn't know that. That's interesting. But it's similar. I guess it makes sense because they're rare. They're rare, and it takes a while for things to be established as being in demand, you know, in exactly the same way as it does in the art market. You know, the primary art market, the things that are coming out of the studio on a yearly basis is only a tiny fraction of the art market. And really, if you spoke to most people about the art market, what you're talking about is the secondary art market, not the primary. Because actually to get an allocation from so-and-so is incredibly hard and you've got to be very well connected with the representation of that artist.
57:53And it's kind of similar, but at a bigger scale in the watch market. And so really, I think most people don't really appreciate the kind of scale and importance of the secondary market, including the primary brands. And then that has changed over the years. But I think there is a growing appreciation from the brands that really the ability and ease with which you can sell a new watch is inextricably linked to its success on the secondary market. because just like buying a car, if you know that you're going to take a 50 % haircut, the minute you drive it off the forecourt, you're much less willing to buy that or you're going to negotiate much harder for a lower price whereas if you're in the enviable position of a Rolex where the minute that person walks out of the showroom, the thing they've got on their wrist is worth twice what they've just paid for it.
58:46That's a very nice position to be in and that's all about the secondary market. So I'm very interested in Rolex as a company I know it makes beautiful watches, but it's also a philanthropy company because it's owned by a charitable foundation. What's made Rolex so special? I mean, you're a watch specialist. You sell a lot of Rolex on the secondary market. Why Rolex? What is it about Rolex? Why have they done so well? Why are they the sort of premium brand in this space? It's a great question. I think it's an essay or a novel in and of itself. I think what they've achieved from... So I think let's take as given that they're brilliant watches, they're incredibly engineered at scale, have a sort of durability that most other watchmakers can't get close to.
59:33They've done a great job of keeping their product line very focused. So, you know, the Rolex is almost like a Porsche, that they haven't massed this huge product line of different things and special editions and things that people don't recognize. They've stuck to the basics and they innovate slowly. So they very rarely change or introduce a new model line. And when they update it, there's great fanfare. You know, when they changed the stainless steel Daytona year before last, the big innovation was instead of having just a ceramic bezel, there was a tiny metal ring around the outside of the ceramic.
1:00:19And that was big news. You know, they'd completely overhauled the Daytona, but that was it. And now it's a completely new model. And the sort of irony of that is you really establish the value of those core models. so everyone knows them and everyone knows what they're worth and so when you go to buy it new or secondary you have such confidence in what that thing is going to be worth because it's not the special edition one of 25 but do people care about this particular special edition versus that one you just you know a rolex is a rolex and so that generates its own demand but i'd say beyond that your guess is as good as mine how they have managed to pull off selling you know up to a million watches a year and still have a wait list and still be seen as scarce that is an incredible achievement i think no other brand has really managed to pull off to do something at such volume but still be seen as scarce and still have people queuing so i think the the expression i always use is rolex is limited by demand not by supply in a way that patek is limited by supply they patek genuinely produce very few watches right lang and zona produce very few watches you in the thousands Rolex producing the hundreds of thousands you know close to a million almost estimates but they're still hard to get they're hard to get because so many people want them so they've built up an incredible demand over time yeah they do advertise on Formula One don't they they do so they then so did Tag Heuer you know I think Tag Heuer would love to have the the waitlist that they're not there yet no no that's very interesting so your your platform do you do you see it becoming a broader asset platform in the future is that an ambition of yours it's it's been a topic of conversation i think it's intellectually interesting but the reality is probably not and i think that the reason is there aren't many other asset classes that fit this model quite as well as watches do.
1:02:20So I personally like classic cars, but to do this for classic cars, it's the logistics of watches multiplied by 100 because they're huge and they depreciate every time you drive them and they need an oil change and shipping it. Whereas watches are actually pretty small, they're pretty easy to move, they can be serviced, hundreds of them can be serviced in a workshop of 500 square feet, this kind of thing. So I like the idea of it but i think the reality is our proposition is quite coupled to watches and the market itself is is massive and i think we barely scratched the surface of you know how how big this could be and so i think to the point of focus i think we absolutely want to stay on the straight and narrow you said you wanted to establish yourselves as number one in the uk you might be two or three you said how are you going to do that i mean that that seems like a there's always a fight for that position yeah i mean the simple answer is you know keep our head down keep doing what we're doing i think we're on the right path uh the the biggest players in this market have been basically stationary for the last five years um watchfinder who's probably the biggest as of today have been with richemont now probably coming up to maybe a little over five years and you know still a great brand still just a huge amount of business but but hasn't pushed on beyond where it was and so i think the way that the trajectory that we're on we would like to to take over that yeah number one one of the things you do that caught my attention is your weekly drop yeah tell us what that is because i i like the theater of that yes i feel that might appeal to customers the weekly drop has has kind of grown into its own thing over the only stuff We probably started it six years ago.
1:04:10And initially, it was a convenience. It was a way, because it was just two of us and then four of us, to actually get ourselves organized into a weekly cadence and say, right, we've got to photograph all this stuff, price all this stuff, get all this stuff ready for sale. And then we thought, well, we can make a bit of an event out of the fact that we're dropping it on a certain day at a certain time, and people will, over time, remember that. And we can send one email that they're waiting for, and they'll jump on, and that'll be a thing. so we've done it now for a for a good number of years but as it's grown and matured it's become uh more sophisticated so we now do a weekly video that goes with it which is gets hundreds of thousands of views and people are you can watch the traffic on the site building as you're approaching 11 o 'clock so it's 11 o 'clock on a thursday 11 o 'clock on a thursday and some of that is just you know it's fun the videos are really good fun tim who fronts them is incredibly passionate.
1:05:07You're the most passionate watch person you'll ever meet. And so it's a great person. This is an event. It talks you through everything. Well, not everything. There's too many watches going live to talk through everything, but talk you through the best things and show you things that you might not otherwise have thought about or even know about. But people who are interested in starting on this collection journey or maybe have one or two watches and want to buy a third, I mean, it's a good thing for them to watch and engage with, isn't it? Absolutely. So you're learning something. You're being entertained, I hope.
1:05:35But also, it's got that sort of right move-esque element to it where there's something about looking at a nice house, but there's something more interesting about looking at a nice house that has a price tag on it. Because it's more engaging. You think, well, actually, I could buy that. Should I? Yeah, that'd be crazy. And you sort of go through that whole process. So the weekly drops have been brilliant. I think we've now reached a point where there's a little bit too much going live every week for that to be our only mechanism for getting things live. we are looking at stuff this year to broaden out a little bit beyond but the the best and the most interesting stuff will still stay on the third on a thursday because i think people people genuinely love it thursday at 11 and no one should feel bad watching it because it's elevenses isn't it it's elevenses yeah in britain at that time you can have your coffee or tea coffee have a little break to watch the winter yeah your employer won't mind hey bros thanks so much for coming to talk to me about this i've learned so much about watches and your sub dial business and congratulations on what you've built i'd just like to ask you a couple of questions which i always ask my guests at the end i mean the first because we at reed love mondays is what gets you up on a monday morning i genuinely in this is going to sound cheesy i do love my job uh so i've never struggled i was hoping you're going to say a watch with a special alarm on it not many of our watches come with alarms some of them do but they're incredibly expensive you don't need one you're too ready to go yeah um but no i mean i i incredibly passionate about what i do i think we always feel like we're under delivering on what we would like to deliver you know we're never quite satisfied with where we've got to in terms of the product in terms of the presentation the everything but in a good way in a sort of restless way that you know i think we we want to get in and make it make it better and i also am a morning person so monday morning 6am is basically my favorite time of the week i'm glad to hear that and then my last question from my interview book why you 101 interview questions you'll never fear again is where do you see yourself in five years time uh hopefully in our second market so wherever that ends up being whether it's us or europe but I would love in five years' time to be established in a new market and feel like we've got the same level of, you know, customer engagement, the same collector pool that we have here, but hopefully, you know, at an even bigger scale and that the company is...
1:08:06Would you go and live in one of those markets? You said hopefully in our second... Would you be in America or Europe yourself? TBC, yeah. We might well do, yeah. That's exciting. Between the two of us, you know, we will need someone in market getting things set up, which is another fun challenge to have. Very much so. I wish you every success with that. Thanks so much, Colin. Talk to me. We'll follow this with great interest. Thank you very much for having me. Maybe pick it up again in the future. No, fascinating. Thanks, Ross. Thanks for coming in. Thank you, Ross, for joining me on All About Business.
1:08:36I'm your host, James Reid, Chairman and CEO of Reid, a family-run recruitment and philanthropy company. if you'd like to find out more about subdial or read you'll find all the links in the show notes thank you for listening and see you next time
From the publisher
If your industry still relies on hidden margins, middleman markups, and slow transactions, someone is already planning to use data to replace you, so the question is; will you be the one to spot the inefficiency in your market and capture that revenue before a competitor does?
In this episode of All About Business, James sits down with Ross Crane to look at how founders can use high-level business strategy to fix broken, traditional markets. Ross shares the tough calls behind building a multi-million-pound company, including why he shut down an early venture after six months and handed back £220,000 of unused seed money to his investors when it hit a dead end.
The conversation breaks down how to take control of an unpredictable market using clear, real-time data instead of guesswork. Ross explains how showing customers true market values cuts out middleman fees, speeds up sales, and builds instant trust. He also shares how to keep your business steady through sharp economic drops, why speed of sales matters more than high margins, and why hiring people with the right mindset will save your company culture as you grow.
If you want to spot hidden opportunities in your own sector and build a faster, more resilient operation, this episode is essential listening.
Timestamps
01:40 From Consulting to Startups
07:23 Pivoting Into Watches
10:16 Data Driven Pricing Model
21:43 How Subdial Works
32:54 Watches as Investable Hobby
49:32 Consignment Pricing Tiers
Links
Find out more about Subdial and their products here
Submit your application to Reed’s Entrepreneurs Fund for a chance to a £20,000 grant HERE
All About Business is brought to you by Reed Global. Learn more HERE
