Sugidama - Sake Brewing's Evergreen Symbol

0:19Welcome to Sake Deep Dive, the sake podcast for the beyond beginner. I am your host, Jim Ryan, writer and translator working away down in Yamaguchi Prefecture Joined, as always, by my friend and co-host Andrew Russell How are you doing, Andy? I am good, Jim It's good to be back It feels like we've been away for a while I guess we have, actually We've been away for two months But we did do our Matsuri in between Yes, we did Got to talk to a lot of supporters It's good to be back to our usual service it is and and it's good to be coming out out of uh out of summer finally feeling a bit of fall in the air the autumn is upon us pretty soon i'm sure kyoto will be swamped by people looking for those beautiful leaves are you in a sort of a trough period are you you kind of is it kind of quiet around there or or does it ever get quiet no it did get a little quiet very very briefly i have to say but just the last couple of days i've noticed it picking up again and a very good gauge is the brewery i work in today it was packed again and it hasn't been like that for uh for a few weeks so i think it's from from now really up until the winter It's going to be all hands on deck for anyone in hospitality in Kyoto.

1:47Well, I hope everybody keeps a good handle on things. Another beautiful mark of the autumn weather are those lovely brown balls. Is your brewery sort of putting out the sign of autumn to let everybody know that the Hiroshi is coming? Well, we just have the same Sugidama. I'll just say it. But no, we just hang the same Sugidama outside, which obviously is now brown. But we don't brew seasonally. We brew all year round. So there is no first of the season, if you will. I don't know. Maybe I haven't been there that long, but maybe the first press of the year, maybe they'll hang another one i don't know i'll wait and see but yeah that was um that was our kind of clumsy segue today i think into what we're talking about which is of course sugidama or sakabayashi right this is i mean the most universally recognized i think symbol of sake brewing uh you know the the the balls of sugi branches that hang outside of not even only sake breweries anymore you find them at sake shops and stuff all over um basically anywhere you see one of these you're going to be having something to do with sake it's brewing and it's drinking.

3:26All right. And so some people also call them, as you mentioned, sake sakabayashi, the sake forest. But they're not, I suppose, technically the same thing. You know, it's one of those things where I guess you could call it the sort of the folk origins of the terms. It's not quite so cut and dried as people really want things to be sometimes. But yeah, it's actually a fun little topic. People who did attend our sake matsuri will have heard some of this before. We do have a few extra little tidbits, so there's no reason to turn us off. But yeah, Andy. So let's get it started. So the Sugidama, what does it mean?

4:16So literally it means a cedar ball But I know we've been on our soapbox quite a few times on this topic So let's get it out of the way because it's a bit boring and we've said it so many times But if there's one wish that I would have for promoters and things that are talking about sake Sugi is a very important part of sake history and it continues to play an important part in the modern day. Like you just said, it's probably the most recognisable symbol of sake brewing and it's hung on everything from breweries, of course, to places where you can drink sake, to shops. So it's a very important thing.

5:01But just call Sugi, Sugi. That's all I ask and I'm sure you're the same. It's not actually a cedar. I believe it's a conifer. I mean, I'm not an expert on trees or anything. Probably just another one of the many words that were mistranslated many, many years ago. And it's stuck. I think technically sort of the scientific name is Cryptomeria japonica. I think if you're going to be relating it to a more familiar tree, it's actually closer to cypress. Right. It's a little bit more related to Hinoki is another cypress one. But yeah, it's just its own thing So yeah, just call it Sugi It's an aromatic Evergreen Tree I love Sugi, I have like a Sugi business card Holder and things I love reading about Yoshino and things where these Famous trees come from That's been spoiled recently Because I've been reading Alex Kerr Who has done some wonderful books I'm actually reading his last book which is the first one I've read so I'm going to do it in reverse order and he's very anti Sugi, I didn't realise that was a thing but Sugi is apparently because it's so popular and it's so useful for house building and the sake industry and stuff it's pushed out a lot of, there's been deforestation to make way for forestation of Sugi so I didn't know there was a whole thing of, I happened to like it And it's very important for sake brewing Right, yes And so a sugidama is a ball made from the, I guess, twigs, limbs I don't know if limbs would go to it It ends the green frondi needles of the sugid tree Yeah And what significance do they have?

7:02I think this is probably something that most of our listeners will know There's a lot to unpack actually with Sugidama First of all, it's the first thing I go and try and find when I visit a brewery I go and try and find their Sugidama and see what kind of setup they've got Some of the breweries take it really seriously and they'll make a new one every year Some of them do it themselves, some of them ask professionals to do it But the significance of them, in all honesty I did quite a lot of research on this, as you know, for the Saki Matsuri, that was my topic they're not actually sure what the impetus was for these things originally but there's a couple of very strong theories and I'm just going to park something which will remind me to come back to it the difference between Sugidama and Sakabayashi there is actually a distinction and now that I know that it's going to annoy me when people say that the term's interchangeable It's actually, they're not interchangeable.

8:04They're two different things. So the two ideas about the origins of it, one is quite simple and that it's just the fact that it was so important to sake brewing. Even now there's breweries that depend on sugi We've talked many times about Kikumasamuni, for example Their taru sake Taru are made from sugi Kiyoke and much of the tools and things that, for example, Kenbishi use Not just Kenbishi, but places like Terada Honke and things These very traditionally minded places Everything's made from sugi In the Edo period, breweries were vast. They were much bigger and they had separate departments. So you had a whole thing for rice polishing, for example, and you had a semi-toji and things.

9:00But you also had massive woodworking facilities. And these were absolutely integral to sake brewing. Everything was made from wood. So they had to build and they had to build in-house so there was no delays to their brewing process. Particularly in the Edo period in places like Nada and Itami, these breweries were really churning out sakes at an incredible pace considering the technology. And the reason they could do that is Japan had fantastic woodwork. So one school of thought is just simply that, that the Sugidama just became so significant to sake brewing that they decided to make these Sugidama and hang them from the eaves of their breweries.

9:47and of course it becomes a marketing tool this is the narrative that we have today where they hung it up to say that it's fresh sake had been made you know the first batch of the year probably round about november maybe later actually back in the edo period and the local people before advertising and media and all the things we have now to spread information then they could just look outside and go ah okay there's there's the green sugidama but the other origin story for this is a more religious that it's heavily tied to shinto and it in particular there's one shrine omiwa jinja in nara which is said to be the oldest in japan now you have to take these things with a pinch of salt because there's always some there's always somewhere else that claims to be the oldest the first or what have you but it's quite an unusual shinto shrine i don't know have you have you been yourself jim i have not no unfortunately uh i i i've only been to i haven't been to nada since i really got into sake so it's fantastic if anyone's listening i would definitely recommend going.

11:02It's a big tourist draw for Japanese people as well. It's a stunning shrine in its own right, but there's a few quirks about this one that make it unique. The first one would be that the central deity of this is not the shrine, the mountain behind the shrine now on that mountain there are sugi trees so they are they are already consecrated the the mountain and anything on it now this mountain is actually even nowadays it's still very well protected you can't just put on your boots and go for a hike i'm i'm planning on get up this mountain hopefully before the year's out but i'm told that you actually have to you have to basically pass a test it sounds like they give you a big questionnaire all in japanese which is apparently quite difficult and you have to supply things like a japanese mobile and things so they're definitely they don't want people just traipsing up this thing now like a lot of these origin stories it goes back to the nihon shoki or the kojiki which combined people call them the Kiki.

12:17These are the origin story of Japan. They were written way, way back, I think, what, in the seventh and eighth centuries. And this is where we get another claim to be the birthplace of Saki. We've talked about this before. This is where Shimani gets their claim. Of course, these are all mythical tales of the creation of Japan. So within the same book, there is now a competing claim for the birthplace of sake because basically the regions that are mentioned in these they have a habit of if there's a mention of alcohol or sake then they say well it must be the birthplace so there's a story for example about um this eight-headed serpent that gets slayed when it drinks sake there's nothing about it being the first sake ever brewed but shimani now says well that's the origin of sake obviously so it must be where it comes from they say the same thing in Nara or that temple specifically and of course Nara as well also there's another one just up the road that claims to be the birthplace of modern sake of Seishu so again you have to take these things with a pinch of salt there's a lot of we're the first we're the first it's a big big marketing boom if someone could prove that to be the case But anyway, both the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki relate that a series of devastating plagues affected Japan during the reign of Emperor Suijin.

13:51And this Emperor Suijin is said to have received a divine message that he should make an offering of sake to appease one of the deities. So he calls upon a brewer called Takahashi Ikuhi no Mikoto, who gets straight to work and brews this batch of sake overnight. And of course, they make the offering and it ends the plague. So there's now an auxiliary shrine at Miwa Jinja called Ikuhi Jinja. And the locals apparently still refer to this shrine as Hito-yo-zake, literally meaning one night sake or sake brewed in one night. And Ikuhi is now considered not the god of sake, but the god of sake brewing.

14:46So you have this master brewer who has brewed sake overnight, and then you have this mountain with these consecrated sugi trees. And so two and two together, there's your sugi dama. So that's the two competing narratives for why breweries do it. One is definitely more practical and one is based on the Kojiki and the Nihon Shoki. Yeah, it feels very, very synergistic, right? Like, you know, if you've got the story, you know, the myths and the legends supporting it, that only adds to the attractive power of the symbol. So, you know, I don't think anybody's going to argue with either one of those.

15:39But right. Yeah. And so, you know, this is how they become the sort of the symbolic image that everyone associates with the sake brewery. And of course, there is just the fact that because this image has become so ingrained that, you know, even the most modern of sake breweries, I think even Dasai has a sake. Does Dasai have a sugidama? Come to think of it? surely they do surely they do but you know what I'm looking back oh it's outside the shop that's where they've got the sugidana that's why I couldn't think of it in front of that big glittering chrome and mirrored glass tower where they brew the sake it's at the wooden shop designed by Kuma Kengo the big famous architect so yes It is just sort of the indelible image that belongs to sake breweries.

16:42And, you know, Andy, I think it's probably a good idea to go ahead and get that out of the way. You did mention the irritating difference between the Sugidama and the Sakabayashi that now makes it impossible for you to bear the misuse of those terms. which I've got to admit I'm not super duper clear myself so I'm probably going to be one of those people who gets you gritting your teeth every now and again. So what's the story, Morning Glory? So obviously the Edo period, there's actually a lot of literature and very good literature that gives us some very detailed information from traditional craft and obviously sake brewing was one of them.

17:28There's a couple of documents that these would be considered like encyclopedias or modern day encyclopedias. And the Sugidama, thankfully for us, is in there. But the ones towards the later Edo period is actually a Sugidama and they're using the word Sugidama. But if you go back towards the mid to the early Edo period and look at the same equivalent records, then it isn't actually a dama, a tama. It's not a ball. It's just literally the branches and they're kind of bound together like a thicket. So at that time, they referred to that as a sakabayashi. So, of course, they wouldn't refer to it as a sugidama.

18:19It isn't round. Now if you look hard enough You can find pictures online I did for the Matsuri and I put it up But unfortunately this is a podcast So people are just going to have to believe me That this picture does exist I actually have the encyclopedia as well If anyone's interested Or any of our patrons are interested Get in touch with us on Patreon And I'll send you the name of the book I probably don't think you'll find much else in it interesting it's all very strange thing about how the japanese drank tea and things like that so during the edo period is the transition from when it was called a sakabayashi to a sugidama and i did find a few sources although there didn't seem to be very it just seemed to be their opinion not any it wasn't linked to any direct source from the edo period but people some people believe that that's the kind of transition from the sakabayashi would be considered something very spiritual it's very much rooted in shinto but by the time it becomes a sugidama this is when it's been commercialized so this is when the the association is with sake brewing and telling customers that we've got fresh sake and this is where you get this the modern narrative where they talk about it's green and that signals shinshu and then by the time it's gone to brown then that signals akiagari or hiyaroshi and it changes over the summer and what have you it's supposed to reflect the aging of the sake so that that's the difference i think the big problem is that you just don't see uh actual sakabayashi very often at all anymore and And so that term has lost its reference for most people.

20:18So like I said, this sort of folk etymology, because the thing itself has become so unfamiliar, the term kind of lingers on because of a vague semantic connection to this thing that people do know and people do see, which I think there's something to be forgiven in that. But hey, now we know, and we are, of course, better equipped to not make that same irritating mistake. It's what Sucky Deep Dive is for, isn't it? That's what it's all for. It's to back up that pedantism so that we don't have to worry about, you know, making the mistakes that no one will actually notice. I should point out as well Jim We went to An izakaya together In Okayama Very famous one actually It's a shop that sells Only Okayama sake And then through the back In a kind of L shape Wrapping around that shop There's a very nice izakaya And that is called Sakabayashi So I feel like The next time we go we should say if you really want to impress your customers get rid of your sugidama because they do have a sugidama and get a sakabayashi but then they'd have to find like a shrine to make them one who knows well what i will say it looks much easier to make a sakabayashi than a sugidama and i've made a sugidama they're not easy to make but the sakabayashi looks a lot easier sure yeah then i i imagine you'd have to get a blessing or something for it for it to be a true you know to to sort of uh protect those shinto roots and that's actually a very good segue then jim on to talking about where do people get their their sugidamas then right yeah so i mean like andy you've said you know they've become extremely commercialized it is something that basically everyone has to have, which means there has to be a logistics supply for them.

22:32They're out there. They're around. And it's one of those things where obviously people talk about the spiritual roots and how the connections to Shintoism. And I think for a lot of particularly Western people, that kind of denotes a gap, like a non-commercialist thing. Like, oh, oh, they've got to be like men in ornate outfits waving wands of sacred trees with white paper. It's not something you can just go to a shop and buy, which is not exactly true, right? I don't think that the non-commercialization is as much a factor for Shinto as we might think it would be. because obviously there are if every sake brewery in japan needs them and and every sake shop that sells lots of sake they want to have them you're able to just buy them you're able to order them they are commercial products even with that spiritual element attached yeah i guess it's like you get what you pay for right do you do you want one that has just been made by a very skilled craftsperson or do you want one that's been made by a skilled craftsperson and it's come from a famous shrine because you can do both um or you could just get a bunch of people together and and make your own right yeah yes and i think that's probably in the cards for the very near future for a lot of breweries if they want to continue doing this because from what I heard this goes back to my years in Okayama when when I actually made one is they they used to buy them themselves the brewery I worked for they had a craftsperson that did it for them every year I think they were quite expensive as well and obviously these would have been a lot better quality than the one I made but like so many of these traditional crafts the market isn't there for them anymore so when these people retire there there's no one coming in to fill their shoes so it's another yet another dying craft in japan which is very sad but yeah i mean there's not going to be a massive market for them if you've got what 1200 breweries and you've got okay you've got restaurants and things like that the restaurants and things aren't changing them They're buying them probably once and it's going to get a lot of life out of them.

25:12So let's just say it's not a big market. Yeah, not a big market. Not a lot of places making them because there's not a huge amount of demand. It is a craft product. It is something that I think takes some skill. But like in the sort of the great ranking of Japanese traditional crafts, you know, you've got the Miya Dike carpenters who can build a shrine without using nails or the, you know, the potters who can make art from earth. I feel like it's probably something that is within reach with a bit of practice. Yeah, well, I don't know. Yeah, I think I'm probably living proof that that is the case.

26:01I'm not particularly good with crafts and things but I was asked to make one in my second year of brewing apparently they kind of take turns and it was actually another brewer who kindly went out and picked all the sugi branches and brought them back to the brewery he took his bit home and they make one every year as well and so I had all my materials So I guess probably one of the hardest parts was done Or one of the most tiring parts was done And I made a Sugidama To be fair, they hung it up for an entire year Until the next year's one It wasn't bad for a first attempt But it looks nowhere near as nice as the professional ones But yeah, essentially you have a mesh frame and you're just packing in lots and lots of branches until you've got this big monstrous looking thing which is enough that when you cut it down it becomes really condensed and packed.

27:13So you just repeat this over and over again. You pack in these branches and then you cut it down and hopefully once you've done this three or four times it is actually roundest so i guess the skill is in your your patience and not not overdoing it and cutting too much that it loses its shape and you can't you can't rescue it definitely feels like the the trimming is is where it all ends like i i suppose you know somebody with some bonsai or some, what do you call it, the cloud form tree trimming might have an advantage in that particular craft. Yeah. But I guess that's probably why some places still do pay the big money for the shrine ones.

28:14I mean, in addition to the, I guess, the spiritual level, right? So obviously if you're buying it from a shrine It would be blessed It would probably have a shimei nawa on it Like the twisted straw rope With the white crepe charms hanging from it Yeah If you want to see one of these And see a blessed, professionally made one Go anywhere in Hyogo Prefecture I didn't really notice this until I started brewing in Hyogo Prefecture I just assumed that most people made them. But like we said at the beginning, this is still a big part of the industry. People do still pay attention to this. But particularly Miwa Jinja does seem to have a monopoly on the Hyogo brewers.

29:05Every single one you see in Nada is from Miwa Jinja. But they are marked with Miwa Jinja on them. but they don't just give them to anyone so there's a big event that's held in November and brewers from across the country still do attend this they all go to Miwa Ginger where there's a big private event and they pray for a successful brewing year a safe brewing year they pray for the safety of their brewers they pray for the safety of their equipment and things and every brewer I've worked in as well, someone actually, usually from the local shrine, will come additionally and they will bless all of the equipment and the brewery.

29:55Things that might seem mundane over things like the boiler and things like that, because these are things that if something goes wrong mid-season, you're in a world of pain. So there is still a massive connection between sake brewing and Shintoism. And this event at Miwa Jinja, the idea is that they make sure they pray to the god of sake brewing. They pray to the god of sake brewers who are both there. And then I'm guessing this to be invited to this requires paying money. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's just the hunch I have. And in return for that, then they're given one of these one or maybe two of these sugidama.

30:40and like I said they're all over Nada for example another of the brewers I won't mention that I work for they used to go to every year it was a big thing but they went to a different one at Matsuo Taisha which has a very similar event each year as well although you don't really see as many Matsue Taisha Sugidama but they do a very similar thing so that's how these breweries are getting the the official ones i guess it must be something that you you attend and take part in and in return you're given one to take back to your brewery every year yeah and but i think that that probably attests very much to like just the the dedication that the people still in the industry have to the the traditions and history and the spiritual ramifications like i know several breweries we don't have as strong as sort of central connection here but i know several breweries who are extremely proud of you know their sake being selected as the omiki the the sacred sake for the local shrines and things so yeah it's it's a that that that spiritual element is still i think really quite alive in a lot of sake breweries even the ones further away from that heartland of sort of Nara's Kansai, I guess, cultural umbrella.

32:07Right. So I think we've established just how universal they are, how common they are, which kind of implies that, you know, you've seen one, you've seen them all. But that's not necessarily the case because, you know, some places they have a sake, they have a sugidama, not a sakabayashi, a sugidama, because, you know, that's what you do. Some places really, really take pride in their sugidama. So are there any sugidama that stand out for you particularly worth seeing, Andy? Yeah, well, the obvious thing would be to find one that's massive or big or something like that. But I'm going to go for small and many.

32:54so the the one i would recommend and it's just nice to actually visit this this small town sanyohai shuzo this is the makers of banshu ikon i have a bit of a soft spot for that brewery it's actually not really the type of sake that i that i normally drink it's quite a contemporary style but i really i do like their sake they do a fantastic junmai it's like it tastes like banana bread but anyway it's also quite close to where I used to stay it's where I used to go up and it's in a lovely little town called Shiso which is it's also very close to somewhere where they claim to be the birthplace of sake it's the Harima no Fudoki tale the the first use of koji and anyone that knows that brewery will know they had a massive fire and it it wiped out about half of the brewery.

33:51They're now thankfully, it's been rebuilt, lovely modern brewery. And more thankfully than that, the frontage of the building was actually not affected by the fire. It survived. And they have a beautiful display of about three or four sugidama along the front of what looks like an Edo period, maybe it's Meiji period, but it could be Edo period frontage that's still original and if you stand at the shop door you can you can take a picture of them all in in line and i did that i think i've put it i've used it for sake deep dives promotional stuff a few times and guess what i'll probably use it for the thumbnail for this episode as well so if anyone wants to see it that that's it um i don't know it's it's on a lovely little street there's two breweries there used to be tons of breweries in that little area so yeah that would be my recommended sugidama well i'm gonna i'm gonna take the obvious tack then i'm going to go for the biggest sugidama it's so american of you jim yes well you know it's it's it's not just so american it's so japanese right because uh it's here at yamaguchi prefecture and it was made specifically to be the biggest like they went around and they they found all the other big ones in Japan and said we're gonna beat it so it is it is at Murashige Shuzo in Iwakuni prefecture just outside of Shin Iwakuni station that's the Shinkansen station and it is five meters across it weighs I think they said three metric tons and it is basically like when they restore they do it every year it would be just an enormous difficulty to do it every, I think they do it maybe every five years, they restore it.

35:51They have like local school kids come and help pack this massive sphere of basically rebar welded into a round shape with sugiri dama branches and then they trim it down and they do have it blessed. And it actually has a name. The name is rei-o-o. and it's like the what is it? The calm or the glorious king is the name of it so I don't know. It sounds American but it's purely Japanese and I mean yeah it's a nice place to visit anyway come to Iwakuni see the castle, have some great sake and see the biggest sugidama in Japan. So I'm curious though how did they qualify that it was the biggest did you like did they like go around breweries measuring their sugidama so i don't know if they're five meters let's you know he he did specifically say that they that like the the brewery that had had the biggest one before i think it was kitaya uh which is a relatively well-known brewery uh in how is it yame i don't remember uh but um but i think like it was like three two or three meters across and they were just like we're just we're just gonna double it and it was also made like i think it was their um 50th anniversary maybe i don't remember it was it was some sort of it tied into uh one of sort of a significant date and so yeah they just went five meters we're just gonna we're just gonna go for it And so it now hangs just outside the gate on this massive chain under a cupola with a beautifully calligraphied sign.

37:47It's a nice sort of landmark locally. Obviously, you know, it doesn't serve that seasonal purpose that other ones do, but it definitely catches the eye. It's worth a look. Maybe there's like a kind of Sugidama keisatsu That you know go around Or like the Guinness Book of Records Or something I think If any sake brewery has a really big sugidama They're going to talk about it I mean they're going to put it on their website They're going to put it Like when they have their The big toji meats And all the guys are Talking about their breweries They're going to mention that I don't think anybody's going to keep it secret So Yeah It is what it is Maybe I'll make the trip down and get a picture of this Bohemian Sugidama It's pretty big I've got pictures of a guy standing next to it He looks really tiny So yeah Fantastic This isn't a topic that necessarily lends itself to a recommendation I mean my recommendation Would be Murashige Shuzo's sake But do you have a recommended sake?

39:06Well not really I was thinking about this today It doesn't really make sense Almost every brewery has a I mean that hasn't stopped us in the past to be fair But in lieu of Each doing an individual one I think you finished yours Jim You've done your Yamaguchi pitch So that's one I will do I will just recommend a brewery So hopefully we've inspired you tonight to go and discover the possible origins of Susugidama by visiting Miwa Shrine in Nara. But if you do go, like I said, the town is very small and it's quite far from Nara City. You have to get a small local train, maybe about 35, 40 minutes.

39:53there's not really much else in the town but there is a brewery and it's quite well known actually as well even outside of japan and it's imanishi brewery who make a mimoro sugi so like i said before this mountain actually goes by a few names but mimuro is one of them and of course the other part of that name is sugi so they're they've obviously decided to align themselves with this legend in their branding quite rightly they are the only sake brewery left i believe there used to be a couple maybe two or three breweries in that town which would make sense being close to this this shrine of such significance to sake brew but now there's only one and their sake again it's not really my style of them being honest but they do some interesting they do a bodai moto and things it's it's quite a contemporary style it isn't as traditional as the name would suggest but it is very nice sake nonetheless if you're into that kind of thing so all right so there you have it the the the deep down on the the sugidama not to be mistaken for a sakabayashi thank you so much for listening we hope that those of you who are our Patreon supporters enjoyed the Sake Matsuri for those of you who are not yet supporters you can find us on Patreon we are Sake Deep Dive all one word and yeah we're going to hopefully keep out this every month and not miss too many more months like we did last time thank you for your patience thank you for listening We hope you enjoyed it.

41:41I have been your host, as always, Jim Ryan. You can find me on my website, www.jimryan.com. That's J-I-M-R-I-O-N. Andy, where can people find you? You'll get me on my website, www.originsake.com, or also my tours, which is originsakeetours.com. Good luck getting your reservation, because Andy is a hot ticket in Kansai these days. So book early. I have to say probably the chances of this year are getting quite slim. So, yeah. If you're in Japan, make sure. Check him out. So, everyone, as we move into the cooler months, enjoy your Kanzake. Keep warm. Keep those tokuri full. but drink responsibly and thanks for listening as always Kanpai Kanpai