The designers, products, and trends that dominated Paris Fashion Week

0:05Jill Manoff: Hello and welcome back to the Glossy Podcast. I am your host, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi, and I'm here with both of my co-hosts, international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska. Hello, Zofia.

0:16Zofia Zwieglinska: Hi, how's everyone?

0:18Jill Manoff: I'm good. Thank you for being here. And we also have our editor-in-chief, Jill Manoff. Hello, Jill.

0:24Danny Parisi: Hi, excited to talk.

0:26Jill Manoff: I'm excited you're here. Jill, you're in town, right? You're in New York?

0:29Danny Parisi: I am. I'm in town for Advertising Week, and I've got some fun panels with Revlon and Moose Knuckles. I'm at projects. So yeah, happy to be here.

0:39Jill Manoff: I can always tell when you're not at home because your background is different.

0:44Danny Parisi: It's more exciting than my blank wall.

0:48Jill Manoff: I'm like, those are not your walls. I know that. So it's the last week of Fashion Month, and it's the big one, Paris Fashion Week. It's really kind of become the main event of Fashion Month. It's all the heavy hitters, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. We've been discussing New York, London, Milan, and we kind of have tried different formats, different discussions for each one. But for Paris, we thought we would break it down. Each of us have picked a designer from the week that we thought was impactful, a single product from the week that we thought was impactful or important for some reason, and then a trend kind of from across all of Paris Fashion Week.

1:25Jill Manoff: So we've got three kind of picks each. I think we'll do all, I'll do like my designer, my product, my trend all at once. And then we'll do Sophia or we can do whatever order. Probably we should have worked that out beforehand. Who wants to go first? I can go.

1:43Zofia Zwieglinska: Yeah, I think you go first.

1:44Jill Manoff: Okay, I will start. Okay, I'll start with my designer. I got to give it to Alessandra Michele at Valentino. I have always been a fan of him and I feel like he had such a fun like maximalist kind of take this season very on brand for him he had such a great run with Gucci that I feel like was very iconic and then I feel like a Valentino is a little bit I don't know I feel people talk about him a little less I still I still like his vibe and particularly two things I liked about his show this season he asked every guest to bring their favorite book and I love books I have a million books in my house I read a lot I appreciated that And then the other thing was he did an interview afterward.

2:23Jill Manoff: He talked about how the concept was inspired by my favorite writer of all time, Umberto Eco, an Italian writer who has this concept of the anti-library, which is like all the books you have that you haven't read, but they're like in your house and they represent something. You're going to read them someday, or maybe you never will, but they're still important to you. And so people brought their favorite books and there were some pretty bad books there, lots of like self-help and stuff but also cool things like alexander skarsgård brought this collection of like ancient norse poems and things like that i just thought that was very cool and particularly well i'll say one more thing and then i want to hear your thoughts if you guys have any thoughts about the valentino show did you see at the vogue world event where they had the robots i don't know if you saw there was kind of like a viral image of alessandro michaela looking very unimpressed by the robots.

3:15Jill Manoff: Yeah. I don't think he said anything like on the record anywhere, but it was like very clear that he was not into the robots. And then the show this season, I mean, I guess it's a coincidence that it kind of lined up like this, but it felt very like human touch, books, tactile. And, you know, there's also in the news, like Anthropik buying millions of books and scanning them for AI and then destroying them, that kind of stuff. And I felt like his, I feel like Mikayla to me represents like the opposite of an algorithmic, like kind of following the data. We'll do whatever the, you know, the, the science that whatever the math is telling us, it's like, he follows his own inspiration.

3:58Jill Manoff: He puts things together that like no AI would ever put together. Cause it's crazy combination. I just think he kind of represents that type of fashion design to me that just like, we don't care what the data says. we're going off of like creative inspiration. And I appreciated that. So I don't know, did you guys pay much attention to that show? And what do you think?

4:20Danny Parisi: I was going to say, I was worried when I wasn't going first that we were all going to have the same one and I was going to be so five minutes ago. I didn't pay a ton of attention, to be honest. First of all, I did hear about the books. What was the destination for the books? Like, what was the plan? Were they going to?

4:38Jill Manoff: No, I think they just held up.

4:39Danny Parisi: I think they're going to be donated.

4:40Zofia Zwieglinska: They're going to be donated to various schools. Also, I think it's quite interesting that that's happening at the same time when the high school protests are happening in France. There's a lot to do with books and literary references. And obviously, the show itself also took place in Paris' Bibliothèque Saint-Genevieve, which is a massive... If you imagine Oxford or the Harvard Library, that's basically the Parisian equivalent. there was like tomes and tomes of books on the tables they had those library green lamps it was very cute um and yeah i think it's quite fun that they brought in this like book concept i do think it's a little bit like if the books aren't read is it not kind of supporting anthropics point like isn't that going the other way but i guess if they're being denoted

5:29Jill Manoff: someone somewhere is going to read them well the idea is you will read them at some point maybe

5:34Zofia Zwieglinska: yeah yeah they collect dust in my in my book in my shelf and uh i've got a small little stack i

5:42Danny Parisi: could have donated just as much yeah for the collection itself would love to hear where you thought it fell in the spectrum of things because my kind of big takeaway from the week was that um maybe designers like there was a big focus on the brand's codes and also wearability um and it made for a little bit less excitement in my eyes. But I don't know. In terms of the collection, what did you think, Danny?

6:06Jill Manoff: I mean, I liked it, but it's funny because I actually thought it was a little bit more subdued than like the Gucci era. Like, I know I just said he was, he always kind of does inspired things, but it was kind of like, I feel like there weren't as many prints or patterns. It was more solid colors. The color choices were interesting, but I don't know. I just feel like since he moved to Valentino, I feel like it's been a little bit quieter on the Michele front. I feel like when he was at Gucci, people talked about him all the time. I feel like he was more in the center of the conversation. Do you disagree with that, Jill?

6:37Jill Manoff: Or what do you think?

6:38Danny Parisi: No, I think you're right. And it's interesting. Similarly, I was thinking, looking at the Balenciaga show, it didn't feel very Balenciaga. It did feel very wearable. There was just not a lot of like, I always think of these silhouettes that are very, I don't know, unique or statement. there's more drama um and that's pure pure Apollo obviously so yeah new new designer to the brand um and less impactful and maybe they're not yet ready to go there I know everybody's kind of getting their bearings um but yeah I think you're right yeah and speaking of brand codes I'm sure

7:16Jill Manoff: I'm gonna guess that one of you guys picked Chanel for your designer I don't know if if not

7:21Danny Parisi: we'll mention it later I did and I felt so um like I didn't want to I didn't want to but I have reasons.

7:28Jill Manoff: Let's hear the reasons. I feel like, Joe, Chanel and Mathieu Boisie is a great one to talk about, like, brand codes and evolving that and things like that. So tell me what you thought about that show.

7:38Danny Parisi: Yeah. I mean, first of all, just because I think it kind of defined the season or it kind of stood out for this week, and I think that was the direction we were going here, it wasn't my favorite. Like, Tom Ford was the one that clicked with me. It was very, like, sexy, a lot of suits, a little bit naked. I like that. But yeah, I felt like that was the most, like, from the runway, I want to wear that, I want to wear that, I want to wear that. What I would say is kind of in terms of the response from the fashion community, I really like what, I'm going to just pluck a quote from Kathy Horan, because she said it moved from shock, which was the first collection that he, that Matthew Blasey did for Chanel and everybody's standing ovation.

8:20Danny Parisi: It was like, wow, this is Chanel. This is so exciting. And she said, I moved from shock to awe. And it was just, there was no standing ovation. It was kind of like he did it again. Unanimous approval, continue to forward this Coco Chanel kind of narrative, I guess, so to speak, but also felt very fresh, felt very cohesive. I think that it's fine. And that's great. I felt like that was what we needed this season from him. We'll see as the seasons go on, if people want more, they want that pow, they want that standing ovation kind of or the collection. So I, I feel like this season, this is great.

8:55Danny Parisi: And this is one that kind of stood out as, um, it was more, a little bit more of the same in terms of the mishmash of things maybe you wouldn't put together. Um, but he also played into some of the trends that I'm going to talk about later, but, um, yeah, I would just say he's, it's hard. It's a tough audience. And the fact that you kind of kept that attention and received, again, unanimous applause. It says a lot. And it showed a little bit about where fashion is going in terms of the evolution or where it can go in terms of evolving these very recognizable brand codes. And it didn't look stale, where so often Chanel looks so stale and almost costumey, costumey, because I don't know that anybody's worn these kind of, well, they do, older women, mostly.

9:45Danny Parisi: And there are ways to make it look cool. But it always feels a little bit costumey, a little bit retro, a little bit, yeah, 50s, 60s inspired or something. Yeah.

9:57Jill Manoff: Well, Jill, I totally agree with you. And I feel like I saw a lot of comparisons of his first chanel show in his second and and one i forget who said it like this but it was like the first was you know uh introduction and then the second is like victory lap it's like the first time he was already i think very acclaimed and i think well known and everything but it was a little bit of like what's matthew blasey's chanel gonna look like and then it came out and everyone was like you said was kind of shocked by how great it was and how like um uh astounding and then the second time it's like everyone knew it was going to be good and it was good you know so it was like less less surprise um but that's a good interesting point about the costumey element i was thinking that too there's i'm a this is bad that i don't know what is the name of that type of like skirt suit outfit with like the little like collarless jacket and it's like buttoned at the top is there a word for that type of jacket i feel like chanel always has those and they had it again in this and i was like are people actually buying that or is that just like because it's chanel and they have

10:59Zofia Zwieglinska: to have a few of those you know what i mean we all know the look like chanel tweed set basically

11:05Jill Manoff: i don't think it has a specific name yeah it feels like that's that's there because it's chanel and it's got to be there and then maybe some of the other stuff is the more interesting things i don't know that's just that's my take but um sophia what did you think of chanel yeah i mean i think that

11:22Zofia Zwieglinska: obviously the the kind of bird references both in the kind of invitation but also the venue were really cool. I got a lot of like artistic references. I think you mentioned that kind of Jill, but I think there was a lot like both in terms of the venue. I think the whole floor was like multicolored, kind of looked like a lawn or in the sky like joined together. But there was also like a lot of inspirations from artists in the clothes themselves and like some kind of like Trump doy, like surrealist bits. I don't know if you guys saw, but there was like a little tweed suit that changed into a coat which I think was really cool um and then changed back into a dress and yeah I thought that was very very interesting it kind of folded over past the shoulder um and then it tied back at the back very very nice piece and then a lot of yeah artistic kind of references from Agnes Martin, Henri Matisse, um El Lissitzky and Degas which is obviously a massive French painter and kind of historical figure.

12:20Zofia Zwieglinska: I think that there was a lot of interesting kind of bits with colour, like a lot of prints, which I think Chanel has been maybe less known for, but I think the prints were also tied to the knits. And I believe Vanessa Friedman talked a little bit about the material construction as well with Chanel, which I think was also quite unique. And this is actually something I'm going to highlight later, small spoiler. But I think it was very interesting how the designers kind of looking at technical fabrics or like changing up the tweed to make it more kind of suitable for daily life and there's a lot of little like elements whether that's the shoes the bags or the tweed itself which I think you know you have to kind of dig into and look close up again kind of the importance of the reesee I think is very very like pointed with Chanel like you do get a lot of details that you probably wouldn't get just watching it on that massive runway.

13:15Danny Parisi: Totally. And different styling components. Like we saw like a layered vest between the shirt and the jacket and all of these. It felt inspiring in that way. And good, good point about the inspiration from artists and artwork because the incorporation of those prints, again, felt very new. It did not, somehow he did it where it didn't read too bold or too outside the box. It felt like it was a perfect fit. You mentioned the knits. I 100 % agree that that like the texture and the fit of it, it made it make sense. Yes, we're on the same page.

13:46Jill Manoff: Yeah. Also, since we mentioned venues before, I should also mention that the Chanel show was in the Grand Palais, which is a museum and a historic site. So I think that furthered the artistic connection. Since we have done two designers, why don't we just do Zofia's designer too and we'll move on from there. What show did you like or did you pick?

14:06Zofia Zwieglinska: I mean, I'm definitely going to pick Mijia Miu Miu. I think that it's fun to talk a little bit about, you know, with all of these luxury brands, thinking more about how to cater to a younger customer while also kind of managing their older one. Everything from having Olivia Colman on the runway, who I love and think she looked great, like slightly haphazard in all of the little prints and details and sequenting. I thought that was very cool um but also just like the details like the kind of crystal encrusted bra tops the skirts like the little sharp blazers I think that it makes for a very fun collection actually a lot of similarities I think between that one and Chanel where you have separates basically which someone could buy you know one piece of and like that in itself would define you know that Miu Miu top or that Chanel skirt like you don't really have to even look for a label to know that that's like a piece from that collection um there was a lot of like deliberately kind of permanent creases which we've seen a lot with Miu Miu but also with Prada which I think is a very effective um kind of material technique and I liken it a little bit to like the Issey Miyake pleats which was also like you know a massive collection there's a whole like line based on it I feel like Prada could do that in itself just on these like deliberate creasing and I think it's something a little bit new.

15:32Zofia Zwieglinska: Most of the time with Miu Miu, it does feel very like crystal and kind of sequin heavy. And sometimes I feel like that ends up being a little bit too samey. So it's nice to kind of see some details which were a little bit different and a little bit newer.

15:46Danny Parisi: I so agree. And I mean, I think that we're not going with our plan of attack here on this podcast, but I would love to segue into that collection because that was one of my products of the season. And it was one of the products that you didn't mention. And it's kind of a bold call, but tell me if you disagree. And I think that's such a good point. I think that collection, I didn't see a lot of like rave reviews about it, Zophia, but like, and yet at the same time, there were comments about how it kind of brought the crowd out. And it was like the most lively, the most excitement. It had largely to do with the celebrities on the runway and the celebrities in attendance, no doubt.

16:22Danny Parisi: but um it's really like they're hitting striking a nerve hitting the right um points with gen z there was a comment by one of the critics about like the weird combinations on the runway and i

16:33Zofia Zwieglinska: was like those are gen z combinations like that's how they dress um but something that i thought

16:38Danny Parisi: stood out and i you saw you know denim across a couple of collections that maybe we haven't kind of noticed it before like balenciaga um well they do it from time to time but anyway i thought their denim with the kind of messy shoelace closure. It kind of mimics the details of their best-selling sneakers that they've done with New Balance and others. But I just see that taking off as something everybody wears denim. It brings kind of a fresh component to something you wear every day that feels like it's not quiet luxury, I would say, but it doesn't say mew mew and it's recognizable as mew mew mew.

17:13Danny Parisi: And I think they do that really, really well in something that kind of takes off and they've done it once and they'll do it again. But I would say it's kind of a continuation of the drawstring jean that was kind of, you know, everybody does one and it comfort is still important to kind of had that vibe as well. And we talk a lot about the return of the low waste, but it's not low waste that we did in like the early 2000s because it's not skin tight at the same time. It's easy. It's low. We saw a lot of that. So anyway, I think those jeans are got a little bit of buzz, but I think that those are going to take off among younger shoppers, like other Mew Mew things, their bags, their kind of pullovers.

17:53Danny Parisi: I love it.

17:55Jill Manoff: I have a little fun fact here.

17:59Zofia Zwieglinska: Like, did you know that it's a Wrangler? They're actually like genuine Wrangler jeans. Yes, totally. Yeah. So, I mean, having that on the runway, like I was very surprised that you had Wrangler jeans like Levi's I feel like make regular appearances especially the vintage pairs but I haven't actually seen Wrangler jeans used before like genuinely kind of on the runway and from what I've read like I think it was a collab between them and they did actually end up using like archival jeans from the collections from the brand which was very very cool to me.

18:35Danny Parisi: So cool and it almost offers a DIY moment like take a pair of Wrangler jeans and lace them up yourself and you've got the look, which I love that when there's an opportunity to do it for less. Sorry, Danny, go ahead.

18:47Jill Manoff: No, no, no, that's okay. I'm glad you guys are both mentioning Miu Miu because I was very close to picking that as my designer or show like pick because I thought it was very cool. And like you said, Joe, very youthful. I felt very kind of like brash, but forward thinking. It felt very in tune with like how Gen Z are dressing. I was going to call out the sports bras. There were sports bras multiple times just as a top. And I think, I don't know off the top of my head, but I feel like there were other shows at Paris that had bras or midriffs or crop tops. Like, I feel like that was kind of a thing across the whole, that's not my trend pick, but that was something I noticed.

19:26Jill Manoff: And Miu Miu definitely felt in touch with that.

19:28Danny Parisi: Yes. And Tom Ford and Givenchy, I definitely called that out or made a note that that was kind of a trend. And it wasn't my trend pick either, but definitely something that took off.

19:39Jill Manoff: I'm going to say my product really quick. I don't have a ton to say about it, but last week in our Milan Fashion Week episode, I talked about maximalist footwear. I wanted to call out a really cool example of that from Paris this season. Saint Laurent showed off some very cool shoes. In particular, they had this one very gaudy golden heel with like these sculptural elements that looked like a slithering snake. You know the one I'm talking about, Joel?

20:03Danny Parisi: It's such the longest week. Like, I was Instagramming it. I don't often just, like, grab a post of a product and, like, put it out there on my channel.

20:11Jill Manoff: But yet those shoes, the whole collection of them, they're all so freaking cool.

20:16Danny Parisi: Anyway, yes, you're so right. And I forgot about them.

20:19Jill Manoff: I think it wasn't their show at, like, the very beginning of the week. So that feels like forever ago at this point. Yeah. I had to, like, double check. I was like, that was this season, right? And not last season. But yeah, I just felt very much in tune with what we were talking about at Milan with like a lot of really cool experimental shoe silhouettes and design choices. And kind of reminded me a little bit of the Dolce & Gabbana show with a lot of gold and kind of loud elements. But just the snake motif and the way the heel like turns into the snake's tail and like kind of like slithers off a little bit.

20:50Jill Manoff: Oh, so cool. I thought that one was great.

20:53Zofia Zwieglinska: Good call. There's a lot of like maximalist footwear. I think like Givenchy also put out some pretty fun shoes. There was some zipper shoes with also like a little bit of a curved heel. And I think we've seen like the, over the last couple of weeks, there's been more talk about kind of footwear becoming a bigger part of like luxury brands and what they're thinking about driving sales. Like that is one of those major things. So maybe that's also part of it. I don't know if you guys have this, but I have certain pairs of shoes that I've collected over the years that I basically don't wear. and they almost like sit on my shelf.

21:28Zofia Zwieglinska: Yes.

21:29Jill Manoff: Sophia, this is the anti-library. You were just saying, why would you have books you don't read? You have shoes you don't wear. It's the same concept. Yeah. Because they're important to you. That's true.

21:40Danny Parisi: It's like pieces of art and it makes you happy to see them in your closet, right? Yes. I know all about this.

21:45Zofia Zwieglinska: Yeah. I agree. I keep the like dust bags. I keep boxes. Like they're just basically there to be part of a future collection. Like essentially they're my archive. Yes. Yeah.

21:55Danny Parisi: fashion goods you're gonna have the best estate sale ever when you die this is very positive oh my god no it's just many many years we're gonna get a little bit morbid okay but those Givenchy shoes you mentioned yes with a little kind of I don't know I would it played into the whole texture trend they had a lot of kind of a puffball happening um we saw that in a couple of shows definitely like just incorporation of texture Dior with those I don't know if it was a scarf or an earring that kind of doodly with the texture, which P.S., I don't know. Jonathan Anderson for Dior is not resonating for me.

22:32Danny Parisi: Not doing it for you.

22:33Jill Manoff: Interesting. Not

22:33Danny Parisi: doing it. What did you guys think?

22:35Jill Manoff: I feel like I saw a handful of images and then I was like, I moved on a little bit. But that's funny because I feel like he made such a splash when he first started there. I kind of forgot about that, honestly.

22:48Danny Parisi: I kind of like a little more structure and a little tad more logo mania. I want to see a little Dior from him, the logo there. It felt a little bit non-cohesive in my eyes, but anyway.

23:00Jill Manoff: Zofia, what's your product pick?

23:04Zofia Zwieglinska: Yeah, so harking back to our conversation around shoes, I wasn't kind of remiss and wanted to highlight a pair from the Chanel collection of which there were 83 different pairs. So a lot of shoes to choose from um but I actually wanted to focus a little bit on like again the fabrication and the material that they're using across bags and shoes do you guys know of like brands like you know like the Spanx shoes or like Vivaya where they use this like really thick knit to essentially like curve the shoe around I think like um Rothy's also uses it where it's

23:38Danny Parisi: like a thicker knit that you have that it's almost like netting or mesh kind of yes yeah it's really

23:44Zofia Zwieglinska: thick it almost looks like it's kind of like a structured thing and I feel like that's the material that they're using at Chanel right now which I think is quite interesting because for me like yes you get something which is very wearable because obviously the knit stretches um the prints are really fun they're mixing it with like different materials different like colors um and I think that's a very cool piece but it is I think something that's a little bit cheaper to make and we have seen a little bit of that criticism with Chanel in the past I think that this season And also there's like a plastic Chanel bag that looks a little bit more like a novelty than maybe something from like a super high end designer brand.

24:21Zofia Zwieglinska: But that was a kind of second item for me. I feel like those knitted shoes have this like very wearable element, but also like they feel a little bit cheaper than maybe something that we'd expect from Chanel in the past. I know last season we had all of these like leather and croc embossing and all of that. And that was really interesting. But I think like these ones are like something to watch. And I'm wondering if other brands are also kind of getting in on this because there's been a lot of talk around kind of more wearable shoes. And that obviously means they're going to be looking at different fabrications, different materials.

24:53Zofia Zwieglinska: And I feel like this one's already so like common and kind of well known in the mass sphere. Like, will people therefore be like, oh, well, I know this is like a material that's really comfortable. Like, will that prompt me to buy a Chanel piece now? or will it go the other way where it'd be like, okay, well, I've seen those, you know, with Rothy's or Vivaya. Like, is that something that I want to be wearing as a kind of high-end luxury client?

25:19Danny Parisi: Yes. And is cheaper to make mean cheaper to sell or to buy? Probably not. I don't know.

25:25Zofia Zwieglinska: I mean, I imagine they're going to put it up on like regular Chanel prices, but from what I understand, it's quite a common material and it does look like it is the same one. Obviously, I have not seen the pieces in person, just examined pictures very closely. So I could still be wrong. But I think that that's a really interesting kind of material and something to focus on in upcoming seasons.

25:47Jill Manoff: Yeah. And I know we talked about accessibility and wearability as a trend for Milan. I'm curious, did either of you pick anything related to that as your trend of the week for Paris? Because mine is not.

25:59Danny Parisi: I don't know that mine's not wearable, but it doesn't really speak to that idea.

26:04Jill Manoff: That's okay. let's let's do our trends of the week uh do you want to start joe sure and i kind of cheated

26:11Danny Parisi: because i couldn't decide but then i decided they're actually being worn together um so i was looking at belt belt the one that was a powder palette at givenchy the one that was oversized at saline saline has seen a lot of success in recent seasons with belts um and they kind of made a little bit of a backdrop for their belts with their kind of paper bag waist um this season so So anyway, a lot of great belts. And we know that one belt with the kind of logo or engraved clasp, kind of Western buckle, it was all over Fashion Week with everybody wearing them. It's over 700. It's not the most pricey when it comes to a fashion item that you can just get a look by throwing it on with jeans and a button down or something.

26:56Danny Parisi: So that was good to see. Anyway, talking a lot. Belts were great. I also wanted to call out skirts because, I mean, it was a continuation, again, from Milan, from Prada. And it was kind of a unique look. It wasn't Karine Reutvelt, very pencil skirt sexy. It wasn't maybe as kooky as you would see at Prada. But it was, there was a very distinct look where it was low slung and belted. And so these belts that I'm talking about went with this look. And everybody did it. We even saw it at Chanel, which you even saw it at Schiaparelli, which you would think of them as more like accentuating the female form, almost like over accentuating.

27:39Danny Parisi: So for them to do a low slung belted skirt, I felt that like that felt new. Miu Miu did it as well. Some of them were kicky. Some of them were more pleated. Some of them were mini, true to form. but um this look i feel like that is all over the place and that does feel like a different silhouette um you will look a little bit more fashion forward if you if you pair this um yeah so it's kind of a

28:05Jill Manoff: combo that i i'm calling out as the trend well i think it's a good combo jill because i saw the same i noticed the same thing that like the belt and skirt combos that were were on the runway were pretty interesting i think it was isabel marant had this one that was like a mini a super small mini skirt and a humongous belt. And I was like, it's almost more belt than skirt with the width of the belt and the length of the skirt. But yeah, I saw the Celine belts, which were cool. Some of them had comically huge buckles. Yeah. But you're right that that is like, it's not often that you see like a totally new silhouette.

28:38Jill Manoff: That's like, not like, that's really kind of not like anything before. And the low slung skirt, big belt, sometimes very short skirts. That was an interesting combo and kind of like was across a couple different shows. That was interesting.

28:52Danny Parisi: Yeah, for sure. Sheer variations of the skirt at Tom Ford. And it was this interesting length. I wouldn't call it a midi length skirt. I would call it like just below the knees. So, yeah, that's mine. What do you guys have? What do you think, Sophia?

29:07Zofia Zwieglinska: Well, I mean, you've kind of given mine a little bit away just now. But my trend was sheer dressing. I'm kind of still very big on like how like the global climate is going to be affecting fashion brands and obviously we've seen a lot of that from the kind of production side and kind of how they're shifting things around but I think it's also actually changing the clothes themselves like a lot of outerwear brands are now moving into creating lighter jackets and even luxury brands now are creating things out of you know chiffon like organza muslin like all of those fabrics which have like a very light touch they're basically like throw on um and obviously a lot of these like luxury clients also come from places which are you know very very hot like most of the Middle East for example you chances are you're going to be wearing something sheer just to make it so that you don't have to wear you know a heavier tweed jacket um and I think like Chanel Dior and Hermes all had different kind of variations of this but honestly I actually think pretty much every designer on the Paris Fashion Week circuit put out something which was a little bit sheer a little bit kind of airy um and I think like Dior in particular was a really great example of that with the first couple of looks like a lot of that was similar in a sense to Chanel like you had a lot of like little sets which were also done in chiffon or in tailoring and we've seen some of the bags from Chanel's like last season which were also made out of like organza and I think like that was a really interesting thing but now that it's shifted onto the clothes it kind of just makes me want to dress a little bit lighter like we haven't had proper like autumn weather until mid-october so the idea of dressing in something that's like super light and like easy to put on like the reason why maybe like donnie is doing super well with like taffeta trousers is like again because people are looking for things which are lighter to wear lighter to like carry like you You don't have to wear, you know, heavy knits or corduroys in the middle of October.

31:08Zofia Zwieglinska: You could end up wearing galinen or a taffeta. Like, I'm really interested to see where that trend goes. And I think Paris really exemplified it. Yeah, I agree, Zofia.

31:18Jill Manoff: And I was thinking about the Louis Vuitton show, which definitely had a lot of sheer. And I saw an interview with Nicolas Guesquière, where he was talking about, like, it's kind of depressing, but he was like, the world is getting warmer. Like we're dressing more looser and more airy. And even for like fall winter looks, like you said, not always immediately going to like heavy, dark, closed fabrics. I also noticed a good combination of mixing sheer and opaque, I guess, materials on a single article of clothing, like a shirt or a dress that has sheer elements and not sheer, you know. and I was thinking about not Paris Fashion Week but just I saw this in person so it's lodged in my brain but the Tanner Fletcher show in New York had a very cool like suiting that was like I think it was not tweed it might have just been like wool or something but then it had a second layer of sheer organza I believe over top of everything and so you couldn't see skin but it did let them do cool things with like there was a pattern on the sheer part but it was raised above the wool and so it kind of did this interesting thing with the shadows where you could kind of see a drop shadow underneath the patterns on it.

32:30Jill Manoff: So I think there's lots of cool experimentation you can do with sheer, and it's not just like showing skin, you know?

32:35Danny Parisi: Right on. What was your trend, Danny?

32:38Jill Manoff: Mine is, we started to touch on it for a second earlier, but the return of sportswear. There was a lot of like activewear and sports. Mew Mew, I think, was a big one. They had sports bras, which we mentioned, but also sweatpants and workout shorts. I also noticed a lot of collaborations or involvement from like sneaker or activewear brands. Rick Owens showed, Rick Owens worked with Adidas for a new take on Adi Zero sneakers. Miu Miu, I believe, had New Balance sneakers on the runway. Post Archive Faction and On showed some new On sneakers. There was a brand I hadn't heard of, 424, and they did a capsule collection with Under Armor and they showed that at Paris Fashion Week.

33:17Jill Manoff: So there was a lot more sportswear and sneakers than I was expecting, especially because I feel like that kind of reached critical mass like a couple years ago. And it feels a little soon to be a revival. So I'm just like, is Paris just so far ahead that they're already at revival stage? I'm not sure. What did you guys, did you notice some of that too?

33:40Danny Parisi: Notice like the track pants at Mew Mew, definitely something I was going to call out in the little kind of, yeah, athletic shorts. I don't know what we call them. A variation. It wasn't biker shorts. It wasn't briefs. I would call them booty shorts. But yeah, they felt very athletic. Yeah, I definitely saw it there. And good to know about the sneakers. I'm such a sneaker girl. And we were talking about our sneakers over the last couple weeks.

34:06Jill Manoff: Yeah, that's why it was surprising because I feel like I didn't see a ton of sneakers at the other fashion weeks.

34:11Zofia Zwieglinska: Yeah. I wonder if that's just because these are the biggest brands and a lot of them do have long-standing kind of sneaker collaborations, which I guess like it just means that you're going to be rolling out over and over. I mean, we've seen the collections from On and Loewe and like those are still going on. I think Loewe would also be a really great example of another brand that's kind of focusing on sportswear or kind of sports inspirations, both in like the footwear, the clothes, like all of it with, you know, the designers behind the brand kind of focusing on sportswear and the campaigns.

34:45Zofia Zwieglinska: I think that that's been like a really big trend and to be honest even like the color inspirations felt very like sporty to me and also mixing a little bit of that sheerness too I think there was one particular look where they had like a sheer orangey tank top with like embroidery around the hems and around the neckline maybe like some sequining too and I thought that was very like sports inspired it does seem like it's a bigger trend and I don't know about a comeback but maybe it just never left.

35:14Danny Parisi: True, true. And there was so much buzz last season with Celine and Reebok and those are, we'll see how they sell. But yeah, I'm sure just leaning into what's gaining attention.

35:26Jill Manoff: Yeah. One more thing I want to say about this and then we can wrap up. But I think you referenced this earlier, Zofia, at Chanel, that not exactly sportswear, but they did show like a suit made from a new type of tweed that I think they called smocked tweed. And they said it kind of moves and stretches and gives like sportswear, like more like activewear material, even though it's classic Chanel tweed. So even though that's not like sneakers and booty shorts, I did feel like it was a move toward like comfort and kind of like dressing with the feeling of being in activewear or athleisure, but not actually wearing it.

36:02Jill Manoff: And again, that's something we've seen over the last couple of years. That's not new, but interesting to see Chanel going that way. Cool. Well, anything else you guys want to say about Paris Fashion Week?

36:14Zofia Zwieglinska: Glad it's over.

36:17Jill Manoff: Paris Fashion Week definitely felt very long. But this was a very fun fashion month. It was great talking about all four weeks with you guys. And we'll be back next season to talk about fashion month again. But for now, we're finished with it. So we'll see you all back here next week for a not fashion week related podcast. I promise. Bye.

37:07adapt to the resultups and towards the situation.