An Exciting Vogue World Announcement! | PLUS How Costume Designer Arianne Phillips Creates Your Favorite Looks on Film

0:28This is The Run Through. I'm Chloe Mel. I was like, we won't be doing that. We will be getting there at 5 a.m., which is already going to get a lot of pushback. Oh, my God. My eyes are watering. So, yes, we have an American Airlines flight all to ourselves. I'm imagining the scene like in Miss Congeniality when everyone like walks down the gang.

0:50But, yes, we are very excited to be heading to L.A. And we are very eager to kick off our Vogue World Hollywood coverage with the one and only Ariane Phillips. What a legend. Oh, my God. Completely. She has worked on everything from Walk the Line, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, A Complete Unknown. She's also responsible for Madonna's iconic tour looks and dressing Lenny Kravitz and Courtney Love. So wide range for Ariane. So she spoke to Nicole Phelps and Virginia Smith about bringing those fantastic costumes to life and what it took to make those crazy, insane, amazing tall looks that everybody still references to this day.

1:35And there was also a lovely encounter that she had with Anna Sui, which I didn't know about. Oh, that's cute. Yeah. They were ships in the night crossing into pod interviews. Ariane is also one of the seven costume designers who has collaborated with Vogue for the Vogue World Hollywood runway extravaganza. And I really want to hear more about that. Some of our colleagues have already landed in L.A., including the fabulous Naomi Elise, who is here. She is fashion market director. Thank you so much for joining us, Naomi. Thank you. Naomi, set the scene. What's the vibe been since you got to L.A.?

2:17Where are you? How's tension levels? All the above. Well, I'm in West Hollywood right now, and listen, the weather is beautiful. It's like, you know, that L.A. weather where it's both hot and cold at the same time, but we're here for it. I know you have a jacket. Let me just say that Naomi's dressed pretty much the same as we are here in New York. It's true. It's like sweater and blazer. Listen, I run very cold and I'm like, I need a space heater right near me at all times. And also the Paramount lot runs very cold. But listen, it is incredible. Once you guys get here and just like see the sheer amount of space that we have, but also just how we've been able to fill it up with so much incredible one costumes, fashion archive.

3:02It is quite a brilliant scene to see. And, you know, to be on the Paramount Lots, I'm already plotting today to walk around to places that I know I shouldn't go. But I want to see the active movie scene and see where all the actors are. So it's exciting. Describe a little bit what these pre-days are like. Yeah, it's a lot of fittings. We're doing a lot of style outs on the fit models just to kind of get a lay of the land of what the show is going to look like and what the run of show will be. It is, you know, as these looks are coming in on these massive crates, you know, we just got the archive Galliano yesterday, which is incredible, guys.

3:43And just like seeing it move on the model in person in front of your eyes, it's brilliant. And, you know, we're able to then actualize actualize what the show will look like. And then, you know, we have Ruth Carter coming in for fittings, but some of the talent in her costumes and then Colleen Atwood is coming the door and then Ariane Phillips is coming in and CM is popping through and you're just, it is buzzy. And also it's just getting the energy up and it's exciting. I'm so excited for what it's going to be on Sunday. Wow. It does feel like it's a true marriage of fashion and film. Can you walk us through a little bit about that the vision for Vogue World because I know that this big Hollywood setting has is ties this all together yeah and it's such a symbiotic relationship too and it just like makes sense but also still feels so like we don't necessarily always talk directly with the costume designers and getting to see a peek into their world and so to have that opportunity now That was very cool.

4:44You know, we had the opportunity to feature work from Catherine Martin of The Great Gatsby and Moulin Rouge, Colleen Atwood, Milena Canero, Arianne Phillips, Sandy Powell, Ruthie Carter, Jacqueline West, but also getting an opportunity to work with Shirley Carada of Everything Everywhere All at Once, who's really focusing on the iconic characters of it all. So, you know, we have the seven tenths poll of costume designers. We have their costumes that have been reimagined by designers, honestly, some of the greatest designers of our time now, like Nicolas Gaskier, Peter Moulier, Olivia Rousting, Alessandra Michele, Sean McGeer, Marc Jacobs, and of course, Mia Chaprada.

5:24and it is such a brilliant matchup to see the costume of the great Gatsby then reinterpreted by Mia Chaprada again into a Miu Miu look, an upcycled look that is meant for the times of today. So it's really about that beautiful marriage between the two and actualizing it into the modern day. Naomi, I want to hear what was your pinch me moment or most exciting moment from working on all of these looks? Like, was there one costume that you unpacked and you were like, oh my God. Yeah, I would have to say seeing the Wakanda costumes in real life and being fitted on a war ahead of the shoot for the twinning shoot, incredible.

6:10Because, you know, it comes with a whole thing. They have to bring it in themselves. They have to fit it themselves. Of course, it's such a special costume, but then getting to see it on and up close. a film that I loved watching. That was definitely a pitch me moment. And also getting to meet Ruthie Carter yesterday and just shaking her hand and just being able to say hello. She's the best. I heard that the Edward Scissorhands outfit that Sean McGurv McQueen created took hours to just get on. That and the actual costume too. Yeah, really. The costume was probably, what was the process of getting in for the models to getting into some of these clothes?

6:50I think it took about like two hours, you know, being overseen by Colleen, of course, to make sure. Because also Colleen told us how, you know, a lot of those buckles, she just like randomly found around like vintage houses and just like attached it on. So it is super fragile and you have to be very careful putting it on. And also we were had the opportunity to kind of remake the hands. And that was an incredible process. and just like seeing what they go through in order to make these costumes and their scope of just people that we never even think of that we would want to utilize for the magazine.

7:30Like they just have so many incredible contacts where you're just like, I didn't even think that existed. Someone that could, you know, specialize in, you know, rubber attachment, you know, just things that would never come up on our end. So it's been eye-opening and also very informative on our end. Naomi, I want you to tell us, because we are announcing it today, Thursday, the performers for Vogue World Hollywood, which I think are just so major and huge. And I would like you to give us a little rundown on who is performing and what they are wearing. Absolutely. It is a stacked lineup. We have Nicole Kidman, who is the opener, who is wearing custom Chanel.

8:13She is reinterpreting Gilded Up, to blame it on MAME. And it is an iconic opener. We have a video that attaches to it as well that you guys will see soon. We also have Gracie Abrams who will kind of open up the Summer of Love section. She is going to have a major moment with her band. She'll be wearing Chanel as well. We're really excited to have her. And then, of course, Miss Doja Cat. She is going to be a stutter. Big deal. Big deal. She'll be in a reinterpretation of the Thunderdome of Tina Turner look. So that is going to be epic. I have not even seen it yet. I haven't seen, of course, I've seen the reference, but I haven't seen any updates on how the look is going.

9:02So I can't wait to see how that actualizes there. I'm really excited about Gracie and Doja. I think those are going to be fantastic. And And there's just going to be really exciting cameos from different people we love and also iconic characters. I loved Naomi and May have walked through the different major fashion moments that are referencing different film, iconic film moments. like one that I'll just use as a mousse bouche is in a recent Marc Jacobs show, he did his own take on the Marilyn Monroe dress from The Seven Year Itch where the dress blowing up is sort of frozen in the Marc version.

9:43And so in the show, it's going to be the Marc version, but recreated on someone who looks like Marilyn in Seven Year Itch. So it really is sort of film and fashion speaking to each other in that dialogue. And it feels like Easter eggs for everyone watching on the live stream and everyone on the ground watching just to see these different characters walk around in the middle of the chaos of the actual show. And, you know, it is also exciting because we've worked with designers from like Tory Burch to remake the Atonement dress and Zach Posen, who's did the Bonnie and Clyde, the Bonnie look for Bonnie and Clyde.

10:21And so it really is one big marriage between fashion and film. And, you know, the designers have been so excited to be a part of it. So it really has been a fun process. Yeah, I do think that those are actually both good examples of how classic film moments have been taken but twisted for this fashion moment. So like the Tory atonement dress, it's that iconic Kelly Green that you think of from the Keira Knightley scene in Atonement. But Tori used these sort of jersey knots that were a big feature of her resort collection to make the dress feel not like a costume. It really feels like a high fashion version of it and inspiration on it.

11:06For Zach with Bonnie and Clyde, the beret that we think of so identify with Bonnie is made out of denim, which speaks to Zach's current gap position. Yeah, I ran into him at breakfast today. Well, there you go. Happy's very excited about going to Vogue World. Great. We're excited to have him. Naomi, we release you. Thank you, guys. Thanks so much for joining us. Bye. We can't wait to see you. See you soon. Choma, I want to talk about what I would consider the most universal goodwill around a recent appointment that I have seen in many years, which is Grace Wales Bonner as the new men's wear designer for Hermes.

11:49I just love how wide the pride is about Grace. I know. It was such a lovely moment. A few people outside of—this is when I always know. When I get text messages from my friends outside of fashion or my boyfriend and partner alerts me to the news. Adam was interested? Adam was interested. He was like, I said, do you know this woman? It's cool. It's so cool. It's like with Pharrell from Vuitton where really like people were coming out of the woodwork. And it's such a good fit for her. You know, she really values craft, quality, understands heritage. And honestly, I feel like she's building a heritage brand with her own line.

12:33So it feels just perfect for her. And I think I cannot wait for what she's going to do. I imagine I'm going to want to be wearing all of those menswear pieces. You're good at wearing menswear. I love wearing menswear. I also – Choma wear. I'm also like, you know, a petite man in my stature. I still wear all my dad's clothes, who is a petite man. So she will show her first collection, I think it will be 27. So she has enough time, which I think is so great, to really think about what she wants to say in the context of a really storied house like that, which I think will be great, because you don't want to rush something like this.

13:13You want to really put your best foot forward. She still has her own brand. which she's keeping. Well, I was going to ask that because I wear a lot of Wales Bonner and I would be very sad if she wasn't keeping her own brand. Yeah, I didn't get a sense from the news that she was shuttering her own brand. I accidentally wore one of her pieces yesterday so it was so nice to be wearing Wales Bonner. I know, I feel like half of our office is always wearing the Wales Bonner Adidas shoes so I feel like yesterday everyone was wearing them and it was the Grace Day. It was Grace Day. It was Grace Day. She's also the first black woman to lead design at a major European luxury house.

13:45Which is remarkable. We had to get to 2025 for something like this to happen. And she's only 35, speaking of 2025. She's very wise beyond her years. So when you meet Grace, you feel like she's lived a thousand lives. She's so—there's a wisdom about her and an intuition that sort of goes beyond her years. And I think she really channels that into her work. So she's just so—everything is so considered, thoughtful, exacting. So cannot wait to see what she does. and also who she pulls in because she's such a collaborative person. Yeah. Choma, speaking of things in Paris, like Hermes, I want to know your thoughts on the Louvre heist.

14:27I thought it was literally April Fool's. I was at breakfast with Sally Singer and she was like buzzing with this. She was like, how do they do it? It's like hard to get, I find it hard to get in and out of the Louvre on a good day. Well, I did see a meme that made me laugh that it was like, good for them for being able to find anything in the Louvre. honestly just finding the entrance and exit to the loo is an accomplishment so it's kind of you know you just wonder how they managed to do it and i just see obviously it did feel like oceans 11 playing out in real life but there's definitely got to be a movie in the works about this i haven't seen the documentary smash and grab but me neither zally recommended it to me because she was like you will get us because i was like what how do you what do you do like These jewels are so, I mean, they're historic and traceable.

15:10Like, how do you? Well, I know. We were talking about that. And we actually have an etiquette column coming out next week about jewelry etiquette. And if you know that your gems have murky origins. Oh, dear. Well, I mean. Yeah. Yeah. Yes. I think Wall Street Journal also did a fun piece on what happens now when, like, what is the black market for stolen diamonds? Because it's also, it's sad that these beautiful crowns, Empress Eugenie's crown is going to be now. broken down? I know, it's like a car part. It's a complete, I think it's like, yeah, it seems sacrosanct. I don't know how you would do that.

15:44It's terrible. Emma Spector interviewed the one and only jewelry expert, Lynn Yeager, about the provenance of these gems. I need to read that piece. I missed that one. Yes, Lynn had a lot of thoughts about how well known these are throughout the world, so how hard they will be to resell. So anyway, I'm very curious what the fallout of this story is going to be. But you're right. It is primed for a movie. It makes me want to rewatch the original Thomas Crown Affair, which I absolutely love, the Steve McQueen fade on away. Oh, yeah. But yeah, very... I've never seen that. Speaking of fashion and film...

16:18Speaking of fashion and film, I actually heard that the Academy Gala was particularly fun this year from a couple of people who went. It looked really starry. For me, beyond obviously the obvious players who always show up, it was such a joy to see Chase Infinity's first kind of big red carpet moment we love Chase yeah she stars in One Battle After Another which we talked about in the Cultural Roundup one of the best films I've seen I really do feel like that is the movie that was most discussed during Fashion Month like it was the movie that fashion journalists were actually taking three hours out of their Fashion Month life to go see so Chase is definitely woman of the moment yeah she looked very poised And I think it's hard to be in the spotlight and pull off a really – a look.

17:08And it did feel like a look, but it looked completely effortless on her. I thought the glam was perfect. And she's just – yeah, it's so great to see a new person. Who are some of your favorites? I – Charlie XCX wore the sort of big, voluminous Saint Laurent. And she did a really fun diary for us because she also went to see Lorde perform after the gala. She had a crazy. Yeah, she's doing it all. She's doing it all. We love Charlie for that. She lives lives to the max. And I thought, speaking of Saint Laurent, I mean, that Saint Laurent collection was one of my favorites. And I particularly love the evening wear.

17:47And I love that Zoe Kravitz, who is obviously the ultimate Saint Laurent girl, wore one of those beautiful parachute gowns. She really does it best. She made it look effortless. I'm like, wow. Yes. It was such a wow moment for me. So those were my two favorites, I think. I have to say, we did a piece on this. It was because of the timing of this event. It's the first major red carpet event after Fashion Month ends. And this was truly... They got so lucky. The runway to red carpet pipeline. And you were able to see every debut that you just seen in Paris, every show that you were excited about.

18:25You saw how that was translated for red carpet. Ayurad Abiri, new Chanel Muse, was wearing one of the new Matublaze Chanel dresses. Yeah, one of my favorites, actually. I love that look. I love those dresses. Yeah, kind of flapper-inspired. Elle Fanning was wearing one of the Balenciaga pieces. Naomi Watts also was in the Balenciaga. Obviously, a lot of people in the Saint Laurent. But it just was very interesting to see that translation. So speaking of posing on the red carpet and red carpets and dressing in general, Zadie Smith wrote this excellent piece about how authors should show up in the world and the dilemma of being a writer and how you should dress.

19:06And she references this really fun story that Virginia Woolf wrote about in her own life. Basically, she wore this insane hat and all of her friends were like, why are you wearing this crazy hat? And she completely spiraled about it. And you're like, even these really smart women have these moments where they feel like, oh, maybe I'm doing too much. I'm doing the most. Yeah. So it's a really fun piece. And ultimately, Zadie thinks that we should, everybody should be dressing to the max. And she's encouraged to see some young authors who really embrace that. And she has this fantastic new book of essays out as well.

19:41So you guys should go and pick that up. It's called Dead and Alive. So that's on my reading list for this month.

19:51All right. The run-through will be back in a moment with Ariane Phillips.

20:05Hi, I'm Rebecca Ford, Senior Awards Correspondent at Vanity Fair and co-host of Little Gold Men. Oscar season is upon us. Little Gold Men takes you behind the scenes of the race for the biggest prize in Hollywood. There's a hundred wrestlers in the room. but only one can be Oscar nominated. Whether you're a movie lover or an industry buff, Little Gold Men from Vanity Fair has everything you need to know about this year's Oscar race. Follow and listen to Little Gold Men wherever you get your podcasts.

20:47We're back with the run-through with Vogue. Hi, Ariane. Welcome to the show. Welcome to the run through. Virginia and I are so happy to be here with you in the lead up to Vogue World Hollywood just around the corner. And you have been an incredibly instrumental part of the production. Will you tell us about what you're working on right now, now that we are just days away from the show? Sure. Well, I'm multitasking and, you know, it feels like the costume designers participation has been, you know, we have we've finished that part that I believe casting is going on and all the pieces are coming together.

21:28It's really, really exciting to be in this incredible group of costume designers, the seven, six other amazing costume designers whose work has influenced me and informed me and who I'm huge fans of. And I'm lucky to call some of them my friends. And so I am, you know, all hands on deck, ready to get going with Vogue World. And the anticipation this week is super exciting. And in my other time, I am prepping a film, actually, Coleman Domingo's directorial debut for a movie called Scandalous about a love affair between Sammy Davis Jr. and Kim Novak. So it is very good timing to be working on a film in Hollywood and be part of Vogue Hollywood.

22:16We've known each other sort of from afar for many years. So just for our listeners who maybe don't know what's going on, you and I worked together very specifically on, well, a project that we'll see in print and then you'll see on the runway of Vogue World that we sort of, our working title was Twinning. And it was very much about working with these incredible costume designers that you really suggested and wrangled into getting to do this for us and sort of pairing them with designers to come up with these magnificent collaborations. Can you talk through that a little bit? Well, you know, it's really Anna Wintour's brainchild and this incredible idea of Vogue and Hollywood and not just kind of Hollywood in the broad sense, but specifically the conversation between film and fashion.

23:10And who better to have that conversation than costume designers? And we work in a similar medium in that we dress bodies. We work with storytelling. As costume designers, you know, we also create stories by developing collaborations with the director and with the actors and creating characters and informing worlds, world building. So it is thrilling to be able to be very specific about this collaboration and the common thread, don't mind the pun, between fashion design and costume designers and the distinct differences, but how one speaks to the other and has been informed one to the other. Sure.

23:59It's a conversation that we as costume designers are well aware of. When we see how the culture expands around a film, we all know films like Annie Hall or Seven or these Star Wars iconic films that inform not only the way we dress, but the way we think and that storytelling. And people talk about film and fashion, and yet it took Vogue to bring us together to really be able to talk about what that means and what that means to fashion designers. You have several looks that will be in the Vogue World Show, but your collaboration look is actually the python coat from Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.

24:49Can you talk about how that look came to be in the film? Yeah, well, the unique thing about Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is that it is fiction with nonfiction elements. So with fictional characters like Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt's characters, Cliff Booth and Rick Dalton, and then we had real characters like Sharon Tate and Roman Polanski. We were very lucky in that Sharon Tate's sister, Deborah Tate, we were able to have Margot Robbie, myself, and Quentin were able to spend time with her and talk to her. And I felt that it was my responsibility to represent Sharon in the most authentic way.

25:34She was an it girl. You know, she was not only beautiful and a wonderful actress, but she was an it girl. She, her and Roman lived in London and they were around during the Carnaby Street days. And, you know, all the wonderful happenings of how fashion and rock and roll was coming together in London in the late 60s, right when our film was set. one of the scenes in the movie that actually we didn't end up shooting but in the original script was the rosemary's baby premiere and when i was looking at images of that premiere sharon was wearing this insane python coat that was just so striking and beautiful and she mixed it in a way with this indian jewelry and i just thought it was uniquely her style and come to find out that coat was designed by the great fashion designer Ozzy Clark, who I personally am a very small collector of his pieces and a big fan of Ozzy Clark.

26:40I was unsuccessful in finding the original coat, which was okay because I wanted to make sure and have it work for Margot. So we recreated that coat with my shop when we chose to make it in a faux snakeskin. It is a moment where she wears it in the movie when she goes to the Playboy Mansion party. And underneath it, I was able to find a vintage Ozzy Clark jersey, kind of hot pant top set, yellow. And so it was a two-fur Ozzy Clark. What was it like sort of working with Mark Jacobs, who was your collaborator and did his own homage to your look? In my early conversation with Mark, we talked a little bit about the inspiration.

27:32So I'm really excited to see what Mark has created. I haven't seen it yet, and I'm excited that it's a surprise. So along with all the other fashion and costume designer collaborations it's really wonderful to be able to as a costume designer to have a direct conversation with fashion designer about where the inspiration came from and see how that may inspires the designer in their own way um and that is kind of the legacy of i think film and design and how it can inspire so many things i mean when a fashion designer is inspired by film then that gift is accessible to the public. Have you ever talked to a designer who's told you, oh, I watched Walk the Line, say, or Girl Interrupted, and I designed this based on a look that you made, Ariane?