Behind The Scenes At Vogue World Milano

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1:55Okay, it's 10 a.m. the morning of Vogue World. We're here in the Galleria, right next to the Duomo. You can see the Duomo, gorgeous. Alicia Keys is about to set up for her rehearsal. The piano is in the center of the Galleria. The models are doing a walkthrough and as you can hear, things are in full swing.

2:26Buonasera, I'm Chloe Mao. And I'm Nicole Phelps. This is The Runthrough.

2:40This is Alex, one of the producers on the show, and I'm here in the warm room. We are exactly two hours out from start time of Vogue World. Tell us what's going on, Luke. Well, we're walking into Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Due, one of the miracles of Italian fashion, in that it was built 1866 onwards as an arcade to connect the Scala over there with the Duomo behind with a new form of worship, which was dedicated to shopping. So some of the stores here, I think the earliest store here that's been in constant business is Borsalino. Now it's more modern, so I'm looking at Rolex, I'm looking at Gucci.

3:28And we're rolling up to Vogue World, which is going to try and encapsulate the kernel, the core of Italian fashion from this starting point. That was Luke Leach, who is a friend of the podcast and a fashion critic at Vogue.

3:51I'm Jeremy Polk, and we are here at Vogue World in Milan. This is my third Vogue World, so third time's a charm. It's always, for me, it's like a family reunion. I see so many of, you know, beautiful talent, collaborators. But Anna pulled me aside earlier. She said, let's have fun. Let's interact with the audience. You know, this isn't a traditional runway show where it's just about the clothes. It's about the story. So I love that we get to break kind of the tradition of what's expected at these shows and allow our audience to be, like, a part of the show as well.

4:26I just found Chelsea. Hi. Oh, my God. It's happening. So many people. Okay, Chelsea and I are in, like, the backstage area where the models are passing by right now. Hi. I was going to ask you a question. Would you be okay, like, saying how you're feeling? Okay, um, it's Amelia reporting live. I'm feeling really nervous because I'm walking with Iman and Ida and they're just such supermodels. And I'm wearing a remake of the vintage 1991 Versace Marilyn Andy Warhol dress, so it's pretty crazy. I have makeup by Dame Pat. It's very OG Versace with a sparkly twist. It's kind of like a modern take on Versace.

5:11And Pat has always done Versace eyes, so it's really fun.

5:22I'm back, Pat. Hello, darling. Are you live? No, you're fine. So what do you want to ask? I want to ask how you're feeling. Tell me about what it's like to use archival glitter. I love using archival glitter. It's good to bring out some of the older glitters from in the 90s to 2000s, from the old genius. Genius taste today is genius too. So that's so much fun. I can't believe we got everybody ready and on time. I know. How did you see them? How did you get everyone ready on time? Like, what's the secret? Little bit of military, a lot of kindness, a lot of firmness, a clock in front of me all the time, all day.

6:05And the best team. That was Dame Pat McGrath, the one and only, giving us a lowdown of all the looks that she did today. We're like five minutes away from starting the show.

6:20All right, guys, I think the show's beginning.

6:30Okay, the show just wrapped. We need to go find Chloe and Nicole and Francesca Ragazzi so we can record this recap. I've noticed that Boho Chic is back in style. And if you want to hop on the trends, I highly recommend that you go over to Macy's. If you're looking for some flowy silhouette, silky fabrics, romantic details, suede boots, etc., Macy's has every single thing that you need. And if you are not sure where to start, you can hop over to Macy's and get free access to personal stylists who can help curate your entire look. So go shop at Macy's online or in store today. Sierra has all the best active and outdoor brands for the super athletic stuff, like running gear for cruising up the trail.

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8:01Ciao! We're joined by Vogue Italia's head of editorial content, Francesca Ragazzi. Hi, Fran! Hi! Ciao, ragazzi! Fran! Bravissima! Yay! Complimenti! Bravo to the team! It was great. Vogue World just wrapped mere moments ago, and we are here recording in the Fumoir at Krakow, which is a restaurant in the Galleria next to the Duomo. Fran, congratulations. How do you feel after these many months of collaboration and work? First of all, it's not months, Chloe, it's years. So, you know, like to get the Galleria, girl, you start way in advance and you're not sure what you get. But finally, we were all year gathering together, trying to give our best energy to the amazing castings and, you know, work that all of our teams put together to make this possible.

8:58And honestly, this is one of these occasions where I see the process is so magical that now it's all about thanking everyone. I have to say, yesterday I went to the Palazzo where all the fittings and rehearsals were happening. And then I came to the Galleria per your recommendation to get some pasta quickly. And I walked through and it's so bustling. And there were so many people and there's so many businesses and stores. And I thought, my God, Francesca has been a politician for the past two years. And you have talked to every single store owner, every restaurateur, every political person in the prefect.

9:37And I can't believe what you managed to pull off. It's unbelievable. You know, it's just about being curious of all their stories. And actually, that was the most fascinating. I could write a book. Actually, we should do a book like Vogue could edit one because we have all the information, believe me, about the Galleria stakeholders and the secrets and the mysteries, the things, you know, hidden stuff. Dan Brown, the Galleria. So these were amazing. And, you know, with Anna, we went street, literally street casting half of the cast in the Day of the Life chapter. The Borsellina Man. Like physically two days ago.

10:20Oh, a pastry chef. Come on in. Oh, that waiter has an amazing suit. Come on in. And, you know, you just do street cast. It has always been in fashion. In the street, we plan too much, Chloe. No, it's true. We should do like the Italians. Like, you know, last minute, no improvisation. We get it right or whatever, but we have fun. It was, you know, curated chaos, we say. It really was very curated. And I have to say one of my highlights was watching the evolution from rehearsal last night at midnight in the Galleria to the final show tonight at 8 p.m. And seeing how proud the models were to be part of it, how beautiful the outfits looked for each chapter.

11:08It was exciting to see that whole progression. And I think each model cast member really got into that. Right. And I remember when we announced it in the press conference back in February, the Olympics game here in Milan just wrapped. And Anna said to the press, like, Vogue World is a bit like our Olympic. and it's good to look at that way, like seeing now which city is going to win it next, which is the best show among, like, and so there is a fun way of... The Olympics is every four years. Yeah, yeah, okay. So, because we are asked to do it every year. And sometime in fewer than 12 months. So when can I candidate another Italian city?

11:55I would give it a couple of years. Okay, yeah, I think so. What would be your city that you would propose? I could do Rome, Venice. That is so much. Sorry. Okay. Let's talk about Milano. Let's go back to Milano. Nicole, what was your highlight? For me, I love seeing all those designers in that row. The designer front row was so fab. The biggest names in fashion. Demna Vesalia meeting Stefano Gabbana for the first time, courtesy of our own Luke Leach. Oh, fun. Yes, those sorts of connections being made. Alessandro, Demna, Mrs. Prada, Raph, Domenico and Stefano, Donatello. Donatello. Exactly. No, it was really fun.

12:40Maria Grazia, Maryland. It was really fun to watch everyone watching their designs in the show. And it's a unique situation for them because usually they put on a show, obviously. It's all their own clothes. And this time it was all mixed. They all have a show in a few hours. All mixed up. So, Francesca, let's step back and talk about how you got here. Vogue World Milano was all about paying homage to the fashion capital's enduring history of artisanal craft. What does that mean to you? well it means that sometimes when you are a country like italy so close to where the factory is and so much beauty everywhere every day you need some reminder you know that the heart of the craft comes from here belongs here and that needs to stay at the center today more than ever and so it was an our own vogue way to celebrate this important legacy that this country carries and needs to evolve now and meets innovation meets new technology and i think we are in a very interesting time in italy there is so many generational transformation and both in the industry and you know in the creative side and it's important to remember that without the very essence of it which is the ends there is no magic in fashion that's why we started the procession the very beginning of the show with a group of artisans and a loom and a duomo from a museum because it was a way to remember that these were the people we were celebrating and I don't know if you noticed but the first models in act one all acknowledged and paid homage to the designers because these are our rock stars in Italy oh that's nice Fran what was your highlight of the show okay so i think i'm very much a day in the life girl you know i could see myself represented in the girl arguing on the phone or the other one like coming by with their friends like i was the most inspired by by this but i have to say the the embroideries and the incredible work of the first act it was impressive to see all together yeah what about you guys which act are you i love the lascala choir i loved their outfits i love their velvet vibi venezia slippers i thought those all the kids were so charming i love seeing them at every angle of the galleria they were incredible.

15:17We went to rehearsal. They were so into it and so excited and moved. Yeah, that last song, Gloria, in Italian. I love that. I was very into the sartorial section with the four opening looks from like the 1990s of Giorgio Armani. I thought they looked so good and so right. I wish I could wear one of them tomorrow to the shows. And I think that that's like a microcosm of what is so great about Vogue World is that we're pulling looks from not just the recent seasons, but past years, past decades, and everything comes around and looks fresh again. And other places you were reminded of, oh, yes, that show, the sporty show that Prada did.

16:04How different was that show compared to what we saw today from Prada, which was so classic and so Muccia in its simplicity, like every look a skirt. You're so right. I can't wait for all our stories and content, like we'd like the deep dive of the looks to go out because there is so many, like so many designers and were so generous in opening archives. And so you see the current designer with his interpretation of a certain look, like, for example Alessandro Michele at Valentino but also the actual real look by Mr. Garavani wow like together in the same show or Francesco Risseau was telling me oh I did that painting of the banana pattern at Prada but then there was also his work at Marni and now he's doing a new project Bureau of Imagination and that was the look worn by Alicia so it's so all this like common thread that are not visible, but you have to go and find.

17:07That's so fascinating. Inspires to go and look. No, there was so much nuance to the show. I have to say when Luca was walking me, Luca Galasso, who styled half of the members of the show, found a vintage Prada skirt that had a hand-painted print of Milan. And if I had looked at the skirt, I would have thought, oh, I remember that collection, but I wouldn't have known it was Milan. And so this idea that everything had purpose and meaning in the show was really impressive, I thought. Yeah, especially you're right in this print section. There is a lot of stories. Yeah. And by the way, you are mentioning, Luca, I want to do a public massive thank you to all the teams because I've never seen such harmony and teamwork altogether from the light designers, the fashion directors.

18:01It was Amanda, Virginia, Laura. Amanda Harlick styled much of the show and just did such a phenomenal job with her partner, Peter. And I was so in awe of what they pulled off. And true of the fashion, the Global Fashion Network as well. Virginia and Laura and Naomi and everyone really. And the Italian team. And the Italian team. Marta, Aldrini, Ariel, and of course, Luca. Honestly, this team, of course, led by Juan Costapazza, our creative director, had done an amazing job. More than a thousand people have worked at Pop World Milano. So if you think of numbers, it's also impressive. I mean, how many looks were in the show?

18:45A dozen scores. It means you needed a lot of models, but you really got the best ones. Yes. Gigi opened. Yes. Gigi Hadid. We had literally every single model, like famous model and incredible girl with us tonight, starting from Vittoria, Maria Carla, Bianca Balti, of course the Italians, but also Adut, Feifei, Ever Zigova. Bianca Balti, Carolyn Murphy, I mean the icons too. It was really such an amazing cast of models. I had a lot of fun people watching in the audience, and it was exciting to see what everyone wore to the world. Mikey Madison told me she was wearing a red vintage Vivian Westwood dress, and she looked so cute.

19:33Dakota Johnson was wearing this diaphanous witchy black sheer dress with a deep V, and she looked great. Hunter Schaefer looked fantastic. That was Prada, right? That was Prada. And it was fun to see what everyone was up to. On our way up here, I saw the robot spinning on the bull, which is a ritual, apparently, that people do for good luck. And I have to say, no offense to the robots, but the robots needed two feet to spin. They couldn't do it on one feet. So we don't have to worry too much about AI and the robots. They have a way to go. The show really, the robot don't show up great from this show in particular.

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21:26I loved the Versace bodysuit that had the Vogue covers on it. What collection was that from? Do you remember? That Versace bodysuit is Johnny Versace from 1991. I loved all the music. I thought it had such great life and liveliness. And it was, I love Alicia Keys. I'm such a fan. And it was very exciting to see her wearing Francesco Rizzo's amazing hand-painted gown with this multi-foot long train. She just looked incredible. I also, Fran, I want you to tell our audience the significance of Roberto Bole because we were all so excited for him to be leading two of the sections and he is so handsome and captivating but I feel like American audiences don't immediately know who he is.

22:18No, thank you, Chloe. We should start about letting everyone know that it's so interesting that the Galleria is close by La Scala, literally less than a minute away. and we had this incredible, meaningful collaboration between us and La Scala through the choir, through amazing Roberto Bolle, who actually just got a star in the Hall of Fame. And, you know, he sang at La Traviata and actually two days ago was la premiere of La Traviata at La Scala and we had the opera singer from the balcony. So it felt a very strong and meaningful collaboration. and I feel the music overall of the show, the differences between going from the very Renaissance to the electronic music of the future, it showed something very interesting about contrast of Italy.

23:18And I have to say, the celebrity cameos were really fun. J. Lo came in with Stefano and Domenico Dolce and was in this big T-length sort of fanned out skirt. And then she got up and joined the show, which I loved. And Cardi B walked in the show, J Balvin, Machine Gun Kelly. There were some really fun celebrity cameos. Yeah, and I, of course, I want to also cheerlead for my Italian stars who were in the show. We had three new divas, like actresses, Celeste Dalla Porta, Pilar Fogliati, but also Deva Cassel. I loved seeing her in the white, your dress. And I saw Monica looking at her. She was so proud.

24:07Monica Bellucci from the audience, but also so many athletes from every single discipline. I think this is the first time that we have done Vogue World right in a ready-to-wear season. And so we were at Prada this afternoon at 2 and at Diesel at 4 p.m. And then our call time here was 6 o 'clock. So there really wasn't a lot of time to do many rituals, if you want to call them that. We went home and changed and made our way over here. My favorite part of Vogue World is always watching the rehearsals the night before or the morning of and seeing how much is workshopped and evolved from those seemingly very near immediate moments.

24:55And we were witness to a lot of pre-show drama today, weren't we? We were. At breakfast, a lot of negotiations about music, last minute negotiations. Music rides. Fran, did you get it the way you wanted it? We got it. we got Gigi D 'Agostino. So funny. Yes. We, you know, we didn't give up until one hour before the show. I think all this drama around Gigi D 'Agostino and the fact that we couldn't find the artist to sign the rights kept the energy and the momentum and the adrenaline because it's what you need. You need that from your team. You need that from the audience. I was really impressed how you all held it together with, um, under like a lot of pressure.

25:38And I realized that I am on the right side of fashion, watching the fashion shows and writing about it because I couldn't, my blood pressure wouldn't deal with the last minute stress of production. But clearly Fran, you, you really love it. You thrive in it. Yeah, yeah, I do. It gives me new appreciation too, to see all of my Vogue colleagues working so hard to understand what the designers and their teams are going through every season. Bravo. Bravo. Bravo, Sanji. Ciao. Ciao. Bravo. Grazie. Vogue mondi. Vogue mondi. Thank you. The Run Through with Vogue special Shark Week coverage is produced by Chelsea Daniel, Alex DePalma and Alex John Burns with help from Emily Elias.

26:31Stephanie Kariuki is our executive producer. It is mixed by Pran Bandy, Mike Kutchman and Kyle Murdoch.

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