In short
A “Dogue” (Vogue + dog) themed episode that mixes (1) the Berlinger-Douglas/Murillo family’s first “Dogue wedding” at the Surrey Hotel and (2) a conversation about Jean-Louis, Hollywood’s bombshell-era costume designer, and the new book Jean-Louis by Roger and Maurizio Pediglia.
Guests (backgrounds)
- Max Berlinger: Senior Fashion News Editor at Vogue; father of bride Edie Berlinger-Douglas.
- Iggy Murillo: Global talent casting director at Vogue; father of groom Tux Murillo.
- Irene Kim: Wedding planner for the first Dogue wedding; previously feared dogs after a German Shepherd bite at age six.
- Chloe Mal: Host/co-host of The Run Through (Vogue).
- Nicole Phelps: Co-host.
- Roger and Maurizio Padilla: Authors of Jean-Louis; film/costume-design deep-divers who watched Jean-Louis’s 188 films.
- Additional Dogue segment guests: Dogue covers team members Hannah Jackson and Florence O’Connor (Vogue staffers involved in Dogue covers/production).
Key claims
- The Dogue wedding was arranged and featured fashion designers Rachel Antonoff and Susan Alexandra; the dress was engineered to accommodate Edie’s tail.
- The Dogue cover contest is highly competitive; this year’s winner is “Sir Spud,” an Italian greyhound.
- Jean-Louis’s designs were engineered for movement and copied by audiences more than other designers’ work; his fashion background shaped his film costumes.
Notable examples
- Gilda dress mechanics: plexiglass internal structure prevented strapless collapse during Rita Hayworth’s dancing; Harry Cohn allegedly used it as a “test” for starlets.
- Marilyn’s “Happy Birthday, Mr. President” dress: discussed as a nude-empowerment image; lore about Kim Kardashian wearing the original at the Met Gala and Ripley’s owning the dress (possibly a duplicate).
- Marlene Dietrich stories: souffle fabric, 50–60 layers, and her perfectionist bead adjustments; Dietrich’s cabaret costumes and long-running influence.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Chapters
Tap a time to open that second in VOIntroducing the Dogue Wedding
1:35 to 2:10
Hear about the unique dog wedding featuring Edie and Tux.
“2026, on the Upper East Side of New York City, my daughter, Edie Berlinger-Douglas, walked down the aisle and married Tux Murillo.”
Planning the Dogue Wedding
2:10 to 3:06
Irene shares her experience planning the Dogue wedding despite her fear of dogs.
“This relationship was 100 % arranged to Nebel's babies living their best life.”
The Attire for the Ceremony
3:06 to 3:51
Details about the dog wedding outfits for Edie and Tux.
“So the first ever Dogue wedding took place on Sunday at 11 a.m.”
The Wedding Cake and Celebrations
3:51 to 5:41
Describing the dog-friendly cake and the joyful atmosphere of the wedding.
“So the dress was designed by Rachel Antonoff.”
Reflections on the Dogue Wedding
5:41 to 6:15
Irene reflects on her experiences and the lucrative pet care industry.
“He was the one that loved the cake the most out of all the dogs.”
Challenges of Selling Dogue
7:12 to 8:12
The hosts discuss the evolution and challenges of selling Dogue magazine.
“We have Doge, Czars, Florence O 'Connor, and Hannah Jackson.”
Selecting the Dogue Cover
8:12 to 9:14
The team shares insights on the process of selecting the Dogue cover winner.
“And it took us a year to reform those friendships, and they were tested again this year.”
Celebrating Celebrity Dogs
9:14 to 11:12
Exploring the inclusion of celebrity dogs in Dogue and the associated content.
“Hannah, can you explain the concept of Dogue to our listeners?”
Dogue Collaborations and Merchandise
11:12 to 14:03
Discussion about various collaborations and merchandise related to Dogue.
“We have dogs and their accessories also.”
Introducing Dog Accessories
14:03 to 15:21
Learn about the new cute dog accessories including treats and apparel.
“And they now say doge on them, which is very cute.”
Show all 20 chapters
Deep Dive on Jean-Louis
16:43 to 20:11
Explore the life and impact of costume designer Jean-Louis on Hollywood.
“Jean-Louis, the man behind Rita Hayworth's gravity-defying Gilda dress and Marilyn Monroe's nearly nude, spangled, happy birthday, Mr.”
The Gilda Dress Analysis
20:11 to 24:03
Discover the intricacies of the famous Gilda dress and its design challenges.
“Let's start with the Gilda, because that one came first in the chronology.”
Kim Novak's Unique Connection
24:03 to 26:15
Learn about Kim Novak's special relationship with Jean-Louis and her fashion insights.
“He did Pal Joey, which was her, Rita Hayworth, and Frank Sinatra.”
Marlene Dietrich's Influence
26:15 to 28:04
Discover Marlene Dietrich's impact on Jean-Louis's work and their collaboration.
“But it was actually really great because she was so knowledgeable about fashion and clothing.”
Legacy of Jean-Louis: Costume Design and Iconic Dresses
28:04 to 34:22
Explore the influence and stories behind Jean-Louis' iconic costume designs, especially for Hollywood legends like Marilyn Monroe.
“Like if you think about those Azadina Laya power net dresses that, you know, suck you in but were completely sheer.”
Marilyn Monroe and the Iconic Birthday Dress
35:05 to 42:02
Delve into the significance of Marilyn Monroe's iconic dress and its cultural impact during her performance for JFK.
“As you said, you were young kids watching on TV clips from 1962.”
The Subversive Edge of Jean-Louis
42:02 to 44:38
Explore the impact of Jean-Louis's designs on Hollywood and the culture of scandal.
“And I think a lot of it is because, you know, when he started, he was mainly working on film noir.”
The Evolution of Costume Design
44:38 to 46:32
Discuss the changing landscape of costume design in modern cinema.
“I mean, there are so many different types of movies now.”
Lessons from Carolyn Bessette Kennedy
46:32 to 48:27
Learn about the seating etiquette at runway shows from Carolyn Bessette Kennedy.
“There's so much discussion about fashion on TV.”
Jean-Louis and the Empowerment of Women
48:27 to 50:26
Discover how Jean-Louis's designs reflected and influenced women's societal roles.
“and he'd bring out the board with the stickers.”
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:00Everyone knows that unexplainable it factor, that smile that lights up a room, that wow. Well, it doesn't happen by itself. There's chemistry behind the charisma. Colgate Optic White Pro Series toothpaste removes 15 years of deep set stains when you brush twice daily for two weeks. How? The clinically proven formula is powered by Colgate's hydrogen peroxide complex. It works at the molecular level to gently dissolve stains deep within the enamel where your brush can't reach. It's proof that daily routine can be remarkable. That's the science of wow. Colgate Optic White. At SockDoc, we know being a healthy adult is like living in a video game.
0:35Every day has side quests, taxes, laundry, birthdays, and just when you're leveling up, you have to book a doctor. The insurance portal crashes, they put you on hold, your doctor doesn't take your plan. Game over. We see you, so we made booking a doctor easy. Download SockDoc. Search by specialty, insurance, and availability. Book instantly. No cheat codes required. Find a doctor you love with SockDoc. This episode is brought to you by ChatGPT. Hey, it's Bill Simmons from the Bill Simmons Podcast. Have you guys heard about ChatGPT work? It's the new way to use ChatGPT for bigger multi-step projects.
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1:34I'm happy to report that on August 2nd, 2026, on the Upper East Side of New York City, my daughter, Edie Berlinger-Douglas, walked down the aisle and married Tux Murillo. It was a beautiful day. My name is Max Berlinger. I'm the Senior Fashion News Editor at Vogue and Vogue Runway. and I am the father to Edie Berlinger-Douglas, who is a mixed terrier. I'm Iggy Murillo. I'm the global talent casting director at Vogue and I am Tuxedo's father. This relationship was 100 % arranged to Nebel's babies living their best life.
2:21Edie is older than Tux by a fair amount of years. She's turning nine, and I believe he's one turning two. So, you know, it's a bit of a May-December romance. At first, she did not vibe with him, but, like, she grew to love him. His excitement was contagious to her. Like, he sees the world with puppy eyes and makes her see it like that again. So she's learned to love him. My name is Irene Kim, and I'm the wedding planner for our very first dog wedding. I have had such a huge fear of dogs. I got bit by a German Shepherd when I was six years old. And ever since then, I've, you know, never really had a desire to be this close to a dog or this many dogs in general.
3:06So the first ever Dogue wedding took place on Sunday at 11 a.m. sharp at the Surrey Hotel on the Upper East Side. You know, I thought it would be funny to have a dog wedding for Dogue this summer. So I was like, I pitched it to Chloe in a general meeting about Dogue. So I didn't want to tell her I'm scared of dogs. because I just told her, of course I'd do it. So Edie wanted to get married in a non-conventional space. She didn't think of like a normal wedding hall or restaurant. So we chose the Surrey Hotel, which has a duplex penthouse. So we got there early in the morning, and we did a fitting with her dress designer and accessories designer.
3:51So the dress was designed by Rachel Antonoff. and the accessories were custom made by Susan Alexandra. And the dress consisted of a like knit bodysuit that had scalloped edges on the like hem and the neckline. And then there was a satin ruffled collar and then a long like silk charmeuse train that had like a brooch on it. And it even has sort of like a little slit in it so that her little tail could fit through. And then Susan made an incredible veil that came off of a pillbox hat. And it had like sequins like down the sides. And she said that she was inspired by the Kennedys. And we looked up pictures of Jackie Bouvier then before she got married.
4:38And it did kind of look just like her veil. And then she also made some necklaces, including one that had a charm of Tux's face, which Edie, I know, appreciated and thought was a very sweet touch. A week before we took him to get his fitting, he wore this sweater that mimicked a tuxedo with a custom bedazzled bow tie and a top hat, which was giving very Liza Minnelli vibes.
5:06For the after party, we had a beautiful three-tiered cake made with dog-friendly ingredients like peanut butter, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes. Unfortunately, none of the humans got to try the cake because we did the cake portion of the shoot at the very end. So we kind of were just too tired at this point to let the dogs just go in on the cake. And after it, no one really wanted to try the cake because we couldn't really keep track of what parts the dogs liked and not. He ate the cake. He was the one that loved the cake the most out of all the dogs. I had to separate him two times because I did not want him to eat too much of the cake.
5:50Wedding day was a very happy day for him. He got to burn off a lot of energy, which is also helpful when you have a Dalmatian. He came home and went straight to bed at 4 p.m. I have heard that the dog business, you know, the pet care business is a very lucrative industry. So I'm like, why not? This is kind of fun. And like, you know, besides having to be near the so many dogs, I think I can do this. And maybe my starting rate could be like a million dollars or, you know, whatever the real wedding planners are charging these days. So, you know, if anyone's interested, I'm here.
6:30This is The Run Through. I'm Chloe Mal. And what you just heard was testimony from our first ever doge wedding, where the bride licked the groom, they exchanged woofs, and in lieu of throwing rice, they threw kibble. Wow. You may now sniff the bride. That's good. Thank you. Today on the podcast, we are sharing a conversation between my co-host Nicole Phelps and Roger and Maurizio Padilla to talk about their forthcoming book, Jean-Louis, Hollywood's Bombshell Designer. But before we get to that, we are all in on our Doge covers, which launched today. And here we are to chat. Doge and all Doge inner workings.
7:17How the Doge sausage gets made. Oh, God. The hot dog gets made. There you go. We have Doge, Czars, Florence O 'Connor, and Hannah Jackson. Welcome to the show, ladies. Thank you for having us. What was the biggest Doge challenge this year? I think Doge gets a lot easier to sell year after year because the first year everyone's like, what do you mean? Yeah. You want to do Dog Vogue? But now that we have some really great past examples, I think getting the talent involved feels a lot easier. But I do think the staff has never been more divided than with Doge in picking our Doge contest cover winner.
8:02Yes. Last year was very intense when it came to picking our winner. Alliances were formed. Friendships were ruined. I know. And it took us a year to reform those friendships, and they were tested again this year. It's true. We did not learn our lesson from last year, it seems. Absolutely not. But I think we're all happy with our winner this year. I'm very excited about our winner, Sir Spud. Sir Spud, he's a beautiful Italian greyhound who has a very dashing pose and is making direct eye contact with the camera. For me, Sir Spud's winning quality was his eye contact and his beautifully crossed limbs.
8:41So graceful. So explain what we were talking about. What is the decision that rocked the Vogue office? Well, our second time doing this, we have an open call to cast a Dogue cover for anyone who is a fan and a reader of Vogue. We do open casting on the Vogue app. It is open for a week, and we got thousands of entries, as we did last year, and we narrowed it down to 24 finalists. And then yesterday we picked our final winner, and that winner will receive a full Dogue cover. and write up on Vogue.com. It's very exciting and people get very passionate. They really do. Hannah, can you explain the concept of Dogue to our listeners?
9:21Yes. So around three years ago, we were kind of scrolling through the archives and found old Vogue covers from the 1800s with dogs on them. And around the same time, there was a lot of discussion around celebrity dogs in the office. I was personally very passionate about Demi Moore's dog, Pilaf, the microchihuahua, who was one of our first doe cover stars. So from there, we decided, you know, Chloe spearheaded this initiative to profile celebrity dogs. And this is our third year running celebrating the celebre-doges. And now we've expanded to, you know, all doges. So, you know, all of our submissions on the app.
10:01We do a lot of supplemental content with pet psychics we've done in the past. This year, we have the World's Ugliest Dog Contest. We shot dog walkers. Dog walkers in New York. Dog walkers in New York is a really exciting... Yes. Chloe's been very passionate. Been very passionate about these dog walkers because this is, to me, a really iconic New York thing to see very talented individuals walking up to a dozen dogs at a time, which, let me tell you, Lloyd Albert could not handle this. So I'm very impressed with the Sphingali-like quality of some of these dog walkers. And Peter Fisher really captured some great dog and walker essences.
10:41And Anna Grace Lee was scouting and casting these dog walkers all over multiple burrows. So I'm very excited for that. There's a Afghan hound in Edinburgh who I've been following for a while who has just the most beautiful hair. And as Mark Holgate, who wrote about her with great elegance, noted her similarity to Mirella Agnelli's Aqualine neck and nose. It's a real celebration of fashion, too. Like, it feels very Vogue-y. We have dogs and their accessories also. We have staff dogs. We have dogs on the subway. We have Hannah LaFollette Ryan, who shoots, has a popular Instagram account, Subway Hands.
11:26And we've worked with her before with front row hands. and we had her photograph subway dogs. And there are some great large canines on the C train, let me tell you. We have a very exciting lineup of celeber dogs this year from McCall Bridges, who we all clocked at the ticker tape parade walking with his dog, Sunny, is one of our favorite Knicks. So we're very excited to have him and he looks so handsome with his dog. And Charles Melton with his dog. Millie Bobby Brown was photographed with her dog Winnie, which everyone loved. Lena Dunham's dogs are Cornichon and Cornichon Ingrid Dunham, who are really—I like a peak scraggly dog.
12:16And Cornichon really checked that box. And last but not least, Bad Bunny's dog Sansa we're really excited about. because Bad Bunny took great ownership of the creative direction of this shoot and was very inspired by a popular image of dogs eating, which everyone will see revealed. Florence has really masterminded the Vogue staff dog shoot. I kept noticing that there are more and more chic dog accessory brands. There's really chic dog beds happening. everyone from small brands like Raja Doggo block printed beds to the Six Bells collaboration on their dog beds to Hermes and Vuitton. Everyone's making a fancy dog bed and we thought why not make some of our own dog products and also photograph our favorite staff dogs lounging on them.
13:18We have a lot of dog beds currently piled up next to our desks. We've got a mound of dog beds. It's true. It'll get all cozy. Absolutely. We have had some people eyeing the Hermes dog bed, but we told them it must go back. One of our staffers, who I will not name, decreed today that she could fit into the Hermes dog bed, which is small. I have a guess. Yeah. It doesn't take a lot of detective work. But I would like to see her try. Florence, tell us about the dog collaborations we undertook this year. Yes, this year we wanted everyone to have a piece of doge. So we collaborated with three very exciting brands.
13:57We collaborated with Alex Mill on their iconic tote bags that are seen every day in the Vogue office. And they now say doge on them, which is very cute. And we have little keychain treat holders. Poop bags. Poop bag. Poop bag holder. Poop bag holders. Shall I reveal? We also did a collaboration with Jake Frew, who made beautiful doge caps and also very, very cute doge dog sweaters. Their classic roll neck sweater in doge size. Striped. They're very, very cute. And then we have a very beautiful doge dog bowl from the London-based ceramicist Henry Holland. That is very chic. I know. I love this.
14:34Laura Ingham was really excited about that bowl. You can keep that one. Lloyd doesn't know how lucky he is. Lloyd is the real beneficiary of doge. It's so true. Although he's on any shoots. I know, he can't handle it. And there's only a limited quantity of each, so get them while you can. The run-through will be back with Nicole Phelps and the Padilla brothers.
15:05Everyone knows that unexplainable it factor, that smile that lights up a room, that wow. Well, it doesn't happen by itself. There's chemistry behind the charisma. Colgate Optic White Pro Series Toothpaste removes 15 years of deep-set stains when you brush twice daily for two weeks. How? The clinically proven formula is powered by Colgate's hydrogen peroxide complex. It works at the molecular level to gently dissolve stains deep within the enamel where your brush can't reach. It's proof that daily routine can be remarkable. That's the science of WOW. Colgate Optic White. At ZocDoc, we know being a healthy adult is like living in a video game.
15:40Every day has side quests, taxes, laundry, birthdays. And just when you're leveling up, you have to book a doctor. The insurance portal crashes. They put you on hold. Your doctor doesn't take your plan. Game over. We see you. So we made booking a doctor easy. Download ZocDoc. Search by specialty insurance and availability. Book instantly. No cheat codes required. Find a doctor you love with ZocDoc. This episode is brought to you by ChatGPT. Hey, it's Bill Simmons from the Bill Simmons podcast. Have you guys heard about ChatGPT work? It's the new way to use ChatGPT for bigger multi-step projects.
16:18And when you need more than just answers, give ChatGPT work access to your apps and files, and it can create real work documents like spreadsheets, slides, and structured reports. Get started at ChatGPT.com by selecting work mode available on Plus and Pro Plans.
16:43Jean-Louis, the man behind Rita Hayworth's gravity-defying Gilda dress and Marilyn Monroe's nearly nude, spangled, happy birthday, Mr. President number, is the subject of a new book by my old friends Maurizio and Roger Pediglia. Before they sat down to write it, they watched all 188 movies that Jean-Louis did the gowns for, a task they likened to a history lesson of the 20th century. So not only do they have all sorts of juicy factoids about old Hollywood, they also have many, many movie recommendations. You'll want to take notes.
17:24How did you decide to do a deep dive on Jean-Louis? Roger and I, when we were little, like, saw on TV Marilyn Monroe, you know, running across the stage at Madison Square Garden. And she was, like, all sparkly with the big hair and the huge curl. And we became obsessed. And then we started, you know, researching to see who did this. And, you know, back then there wasn't internet. There wasn't, you had to go to the public library, look through microfiche and old newspaper clippings. And we saw in one that it was Jean-Louis. So then eventually we started looking at all the different movies that he had done.
18:03And we sort of became obsessed with him because he was different than most costume designers. He was like the Bergdorf Goodman of costume designers. What does that mean? Bergdorf Goodman is a famous department store in New York City. I think Jean-Louis, the difference with Jean-Louis and other designers that are really famous, like Edith Head and Travis Banton, is that he actually came from a fashion design background. He worked at the couture houses of Vandome. Then he moved to America and he worked at Hattie Carnegie, who was a huge ready-to-wear designer. And at Hattie Carnegie, he worked alongside Norman Norell and Claire McArdle and all these people that are really the pioneers of American fashion.
18:50So he really brought that into his work. And you could really tell the difference. In his time, women would copy Jean-Louis designs from the screen a lot more than they would a Travis Banton, which would be impossible because who has that much mink and sable and beets? But he had almost a more approachable way of design that women would really copy. So his designs, while glamorous, were rooted in American sportswear practicality? Yes. Yeah. And he, there was a refinement to it. There was more of a simplicity to it. But that simplicity always brought out the actress. And, you know, like when you look at Gilda with Rita Hayward, she's not, you know, he didn't reinvent the world.
19:44It was a strapless black satin dress. And that dress became his most famous dress. Well, I think it's really extraordinary, even beyond costume design with fashion designers, to have two of the most iconic dresses in pop culture history, arguably, you know, the Gilda dress and the Meryl Monroe happy birthday dress. It's really extraordinary. Let's start with the Gilda, because that one came first in the chronology. I was reading in your book that while it looks quite elegant and almost simple from the outside, on the inside there's a lot of mechanics going on. So he didn't want her popping out while she was dancing.
20:30And it really was engineered perfectly on the inside. Well, she was also, she's pregnant when it happened, when they were filming. So the bow that's at the hip was an afterthought. It was actually meant to conceal her little bump. But along the top, he actually molded plexiglass and created this like crazy plastic internal structure. And if you watch it, you think that dress is going to fall because it's a strapless dress. Her arms are up. She's, you know, moving around like crazy. Dancing wildly. Yeah, uncontrollably. And you're like just sitting there looking and waiting, and it never happens.
21:15I actually did look at it over the weekend to prepare for this. And I think I saw like a fraction of a second where you can see a little bit of the, you know, just the inside, like whatever is holding it up. Of the plastic. Yeah, and I guess, you know, it's pre-CGI days. They couldn't get rid of that in post. That dress, it's actually interesting. um after gilda and that dress became sort of a sensation that scene became a sensation um harry cone who was the head of columbia pictures took the dress and any starlet that he thought you know was going to be his next discovery the way he had discovered you know reed a hayworth he'd make them put that dress on if they did not look good in that dress he would not hire them And there's a long list of actresses that were about to go under contract who later became famous at other studios, but they didn't quite work in that dress.
22:16So Harry came out. Kim Novak told us that in John Louis' costume department room, he had a whole rack of the Gilda dresses. And that's where everybody had to go through, put it on, and see if they passed the test. Okay, so I've got to hear about the Kim Novak interview because she has written the forward to the book. Yes. I wrote her about 50 times, and I couldn't get through. And I was ready to give up, and then I wrote one, you know how I harass people until they give in. And eventually, I just wrote one last email saying, listen, this is super important. You're one of the three people alive that knew Jean-Louis.
22:57Is there any way that you would consider this? And then I got an email from her web designer because she has a website with paintings that she sells. And she said to me, she's like, listen, I've been sending all of your emails to her manager and he doesn't want her to do anything. And she said, but I sent your email, this last one, directly to her. And she said, and she wrote me back. She called me back right away and said she would love to do it. I'm like, oh. Thank God. Bless the web designer. Thank God. Yeah, exactly. Hannah, we love you. And then Roger and I set up a time to talk to her. She called us.
23:37And at first, you know, she was a little nervous and she didn't really know us. But then, you know, we just started gushing, you know, and talking to her and saying funny stuff. And she was on the phone with us for almost two and a half, three hours. So Kim Novak, for those who aren't aware, is a famous actress from the 50s and 60s. She was in Hitchcock's Vertigo. She was in The Man with the Golden Arm. What movies did Jean-Louis make costumes for Kim? Lots. He did Pal Joey, which was her, Rita Hayworth, and Frank Sinatra. And it's kind of an important movie for the Columbia history where they're anointing Kim Novak as the next Rita Hayworth.
24:24And in that movie, Frank Sinatra is trying to make a decision between, you know, the established showgirl and the ingenue showgirl to go into his act. So it's very meta with what was actually going on at Columbia. Another one was Bell Booking Candle. and that was the first time that, well, actually it was the second time that a witch was, you know, shown as being beautiful and not, you know, with a huge nose and a pointy hat. It's the inspiration behind Bewitched, actually. It's a great movie. I think Asher, I believe was his name, the director of Bewitched, said that after he saw Kim Novak, he got the idea to do Bewitched.
25:06And so what did Kim say about Jean-Louis? They had a special relationship And the way he designed was unique, I guess, in her experience, right? Yeah. I mean, she said that she was always interested in design before wanting to become an actress. So she would go into his room and she would hang out and she would go through the clothing and the patterns. And he would fit things on her all the time. And she said at one time she opened the door to go hang out with him. And Marlena Dietrich was standing there in a bra. And he was making her a souffle bra, which is the same fabric as Marilyn's dress.
25:47And Dietrich wanted something sheer that would still hold her up, but give the illusion of being naked under the dress. And Kim and her hit it off and started talking, oh my God, this bra, blah, blah, blah. And then the next day, she said that she got a box with over 80 bras sent to her from Marlene Dietrich saying, we thought you'd love to have these. And then Kim said to us, she's like, yeah, but in those days, I didn't need a bra. But it was actually really great because she was so knowledgeable about fashion and clothing. we talked to a couple of other actresses that were outfitted by Jean-Louis and they just kind of showed up got fitted but Kim Novak really had a hand and worked hand in hand with him and like Mauricio said when she wasn't doing a movie and she was just at the studio lot she would go and hang out with Jean-Louis just to watch him work on other actresses so she had a really good understanding of the design process and how he worked.
26:56So thank God we got her for this. Marlena Dietrich was also famously exacting, and she loved Jean-Louis. She did. She loved him so much, and I don't know if it was because he was French or he had that aesthetic, but she went after him to do her dresses for the cabaret show, and Harry Cohen did not want to give him up. There's actually a lot of folklore, and we don't know what's really true, but we do know that she got her way. And Jean-Louis was excused from, you know, exclusively working at Columbia to do these costumes for her cabaret shows. And they were quite advanced at the time. This material is—I was reading it, and I thought it was souffle, but it's souffle.
27:44And it's no longer made. It's highly flammable. Be careful. Be careful, ladies. But it's a very, very, very thin silk. And what you can do with it is you can sort of mold it onto a dress form with steam and it holds its shape. So it's almost like the original power net. Like if you think about those Azadina Laya power net dresses that, you know, suck you in but were completely sheer. It's a version of that. But even like the Marlene Dietrich dresses or the Marilyn dresses, they took about 50 to 60 layers of souffle and they're completely sheer. So it's a very, very delicate material, but it's also very, very strong.
Read the full transcript
28:35And so he was embroidering crystals onto Marlene's pieces. The first time he did it was for Rita Hayworth in Salome. And then he saw that, you know, when she did her Brides of Seven Veils. The Dance of the Seven Veils. Yeah, the Dance of the Seven Veils. It was all beaded on that sheer flesh color. So then he did it for Marlene, and then he did it for Marilyn. All right. So... But there's a great story where Marlena Dietrich was so exacting that she kept having him move the beads that were on the dress and basically, like, move this one a millimeter over and this one, you know, a half inch up or down.
29:18She was a perfectionist. And at one point, he, you know, just snapped at her, and he's like, we're not gonna have a dress anymore if I have to keep taking these beads off. Because he said it was starting to look like Swiss cheese. But it was once they got it right, she literally had him make versions of that dress for, I think she performed for 18 years in her cabaret show. And he didn't just do the nude dresses, you know, which is what they were. Like, it literally looked like she was nude with beads all over her. He did one inspired by an eel. He did an eel dress for her. Which was fabulous.
29:55Yellow versions. I mean, there's a ton in the book. And then he did the swan fur coat, which is, you know. Swans down. Yeah, swans down. And that coat was gigantic and, you know, went up really high and then super long. And then, you know, later on we see it in Terry Moogler when Jerry Hall comes out on his runway show and she's wearing a beaded gown underneath with that same coat. Well, actually, I think it's every advertisement for the last 20 or so years for Angel utilizes a version. For Angel, the fragrance. That's fur coat version. Utilizes a version of that outfit. Yeah. So that's a legacy for you.
30:37So another legacy of Jean-Louis is that he was, I think, the first costume designer who had solo billing and the credits at the beginning of the film. by Jean-Louis. He first got that when he went over to Columbia, and he took over Travis Bantons as director of costumes, and he was given that. I think also Jean-Louis really didn't have aspirations to be a costume designer, and he was quite content at Hattie Carnegie. And I think for him, he was also really good at marketing himself. So I think, you know, that's another kind of first, you know, that he was very, very good at marketing himself. He didn't particularly want to do it.
31:28And he really got a sweetheart contract with Columbia. And he was one of the highest paid costume designers, even though Columbia was such a small, you know, company compared to the other ones. It was kind of - Honey-pinching studio. Yeah, it was kind of considered like, you know, a B-movie, you know, company. But I think, you know, a lot of that was him and sort of the arrogance of not knowing, you know, of not wanting to be a costume designer. So I'll do it, but you have to give me this, this, and this. And surprisingly, they agreed. So you mentioned earlier that he's French. How did he wind up in New York, Jean-Louis?
32:09He was born in Paris. He went to school in Paris. He worked at the Couturiers. And then one day he got into a car accident. A taxi hit him. And with the money that he got as a settlement, he sort of wanted to go away. He was going to go to Greece with some friends. But then he had two friends that were coming to the United States. And they said to him, why don't you come with us instead of going to Greece? And he never came back. Yeah, he came to New York. He loved it. he thought New York looked like a movie set. He's like, I've only seen this in movies. And he's like, New York actually looks like a movie set.
32:48And he loved it and he decided to stay. And eventually he got a job at Hattie Carnegie. But actually to get the job at Hattie Carnegie, apparently Hattie wasn't very impressed with him. So he, you know, had delivered a bunch of sketches because he was literally just bumming around New York for a year. and his friends were like, why don't you try to get a job at, you know, at one of the design houses here? So he dropped off a bunch of sketches. She wasn't impressed, but a very famous actress at the time, Irene Dunn, came in and she would always have Hattie Carnegie outfit her and she saw the sketches on her desk and she commissioned three counts from those sketches.
33:33So Hattie hired him on the spot after that. And then he literally became the go-to designer at Hattie Carnegie. And we're talking the Duchess of Windsor, every actress of note, every Broadway actress of note of that time. So Jean-Louis was already dressing these really high-riffed-out people. He knew how to work with celebrities already. Okay, we're going to take a quick break.
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35:33you get your podcasts.
35:44So let's go back to Marilyn Monroe. Yes, please. As you said, you were young kids watching on TV clips from 1962. Marilyn Monroe famously sang Happy Birthday, Mr. President in a very breathy, pillow talky kind of voice. It's not just us. It's an indelible image that the world is sort of obsessed with. There's something about it that's so magical. And even with the grainiest footage, there's very little photographs of her in that dress. And that's a whole other story. But, you know, with the limited resources people have, it's so iconic. And everyone uses the word iconic nowadays. this is iconic.
36:32This is, it's a symbol of America. It was John F. Kennedy's 45th birthday, right? And it was at Madison Square Garden. And I guess it was televised because there's black and white footage. Yes, yes. I believe it was ABC that televised it. And sadly, there were no B cameras that could pan to the crowd to get the audience reaction. Because that's what we all want to see. But if you watch it and you really pay attention, When she walks out and takes her coat off, there is a gasp from the audience. Yeah, everyone's like, oh! Because people literally thought she was naked. So, what did Jean-Louis say about making that dress?
37:12In Marilyn lore, I think this is Marilyn repositioning herself for the 60s. And, you know, a lot of people from the 50s didn't really make the transition. And especially with this dress, Marilyn was aligning herself with the Kennedys who were ushering in a totally new political era. She was aligning herself with youth culture. She was, what I think is most extraordinary is that she was sort of impairing herself and taking ownership of her nude body because many years before, Marilyn's nude calendar had leaked. And they were pictures that she had done. As a young girl. As a young girl, struggling actress.
38:00And it was sort of used, you know, to dim her light. It was sort of seen as a scandal. Pretty much from her career. And what I love about this is it's not Marilyn being outed in a nude way. It's her taking ownership of her body. And she wanted to do this. This wasn't for a movie. This was for her. So the story of those pictures, the nude pictures from when she was much younger, is that her producers wanted her to deny that it was her. And she refused to deny it. She said, yeah, it was me. I was hungry and I needed to eat and put food on the table. So I did that. And that made her even more famous.
38:45They thought it was going to hurt her career. It actually made her more famous. And I interviewed Hugh Hefner for another project that we did many years ago. And he said that he considered that the start of the sexual revolution when Marilyn didn't deny taking the naked photos and said, yes, that's me. You know, so, you know, in 20th century lore, Marilyn, Marilyn's naked body, you know, it's actually very pivotal. And it kind of, you know, really affected everyone. This dress really has lived on because... It sure has. Kim Kardashian famously is said, although we don't know for sure, is said to have worn the original to the Met Gala.
39:36Listen, if I was a girl and I had that money, that would be the first thing that I would have done. I would have, like, paid to go to the Met Gala just so I could wear that dress. So the dress was bought somewhere along the line by Ripley's Believe It or Not. Is that true? Ripley's Believe It or Not, for people who are not our age, was a show. The most expensive dress ever sold at auction, over$4 million now. $4.8 million. It sold originally in 2001 for over a million, and then it was resold. And she borrowed it, or she paid to borrow it from Ripley's Believe It or Not. I don't really believe that what she wore was the actual one.
40:16In my head, my theory is that she wore a duplicate. they are under contract to say that it was the original. I think the one that is on display right now is a duplicate that Kim wore. And I think that the original is in a vault somewhere and it's in perfect condition. But I think there was a lot of backlash. Especially, like, I follow all the Marilyn Monroe fans on Instagram and, you know, they were all very offended. But, you know, to me, it was, you know, again about Jean-Louis, how he could still be part of the conversation. And, you know, he died in 1997, and we're still talking about one of his creations.
41:04One good thing that came out of it is that when she did wear that, Vogue did a two-page article on her and on the dress with a photo shoot, and they credited Jean-Louis. Before that, Jean-Louis had been forgotten. And I think that there was so much hoopla that it brought him back. And so I think that it helped. It helped his legacy. We think we see Jean-Louis' impact on the runways even today, right? In the Schiaparelli couture show in July. What I liked about it was that it was so futuristic. They didn't, you know, Daniel didn't take the dress literal. He didn't make it sheer. He didn't make it with little crystals on top of it.
41:42He really, like, took the black and white footage that he saw, that it looked like it's all encrusted and shiny, and that's what he did. And he also did layers. It's like the alien version of the Marilyn dress. There's something about Jean-Louis that his designs were very subversive. There was always a subversive edge to him. And I think a lot of it is because, you know, when he started, he was mainly working on film noir. But if you think about the designers that have been inspired by Jean-Louis, from Gautier to Terry Mugler, they also have, like, a very subversive edge to their clothing. Adam Sen.
42:25Adam Selman. Selman did the Rihanna dress. that was a, you know, sort of homage to Shauna Wee. Sure, right, which she wore to the CFDA Awards. Yep. So I think that there's sort of, you know, you look at these dresses and their gowns, but then if you look at them, there's an element of subversion, there's an element of camp. And I think even in the work he did outside of the movies, he did Elizabeth Taylor's wedding dress to Eddie Fisher. And at the time, that was a huge scandal because Eddie Fisher was married to Debbie Reynolds and she was sort of America's sweetheart. And it was, you know, it was sort of the Brangelina of its time.
43:11And Liz became the homewrecker that nobody wanted to dress her for that. And honestly, Liz was really out of favor. And I imagine that she had asked other designers to do the wedding dress and they all turn it down. But there's something about Jean-Louis that he's always sort of, you know, aligning himself with scandal. Or I think he liked it. You know, I think, you know, Marilyn singing nude to the president who she's rumored to be having an affair with, who's sitting next to his wife. No, no, he was sitting next to his sister-in-law. Jackie wasn't there that night. It was televised. You know, but there is, um, there's, you know, an element of, you know, wanting to provoke.
43:58And I think you see that a lot in his clothing and... And the women that he dressed. The women he dresses. Joan Crawford in Queen Bee, you know, and even Rita Hayworth in Gilda. She was, you know, a very provocative woman character. But even, you know, a lot of the movies that he really excelled at, From Here to Eternity, was highly scandalous for its time. As you say all of this, Hollywood has changed and the costume design business has changed. Do costume designers have that chance to sort of make these strong images anymore? Is there someone who has inherited Jean-Louis' mantle? I don't know about that.
44:45I mean, there are so many different types of movies now. There's, you know, the period pieces where costume designers really can hone their craft. But then there are other ones where it's just like a T-shirt and jeans. And, you know, right now the Shards, they're wearing everything from the 80s. And I saw them reference three different looks of Stephen Sprouse's. So, I think it's hard. I think, you know, we're fed so much that it's really hard to sort of get obsessed with any one image. And I think there are, you know, I think Frankenstein was amazing. Was that last year, two years ago? Last year.
45:25And I think, you know, Frankenstein's mother in the red chiffon gown. I mean, it looked like a Vogue editorial. But I feel like we're just, we see so much now that it's really hard for anything to either shock us or to break through. I think there's something to be said about working in the arts during a time of repression. I think the Hays Code really helped artists like Jean-Louis because they had something to sort of fight against or try to push the boundaries of. And I feel like, you know, we certainly have repression in the world nowadays. But, you know, when it comes to movies, everything is expected to be pushed.
46:13So I think that that sort of makes it really hard to, like, leave a real impression. Well, it's interesting that you brought up the shards and the Stephen Sprouse looks. I do feel like a lot of movies and TV shows now really thrive on the internet. There's so much discussion about fashion on TV. On Vogue.com, for example, Ryan Murphy's made The Shards. He also was the producer behind Love Story earlier this year, which was about Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr.'s relationship. And the clothes on that show were just dissected and talked over ad infinitum. They got that so right.
47:00So well. And not only that, but the outside of the Roxy, you know, outside of Jerry's 103, like every place they showcased, I was there and it felt like that. I understand from our research that Carol and Bissette taught you both how to seat a runway show. Yes. Is that true? That is true. Our friend Jill Wolfe was a model and she was Calvin Klein's fit model. So she'd be like, come with me, come with me. And we were just starting our PR company and starting to produce fashion shows. And one day I'm in there and I see all these boards on the hanging on the rack and stickers on them. But they were like, you know, seated up.
47:46And I was just like, what is that? And Carolyn stood up and came over. And she's like, oh, that's my seating chart. And let me show you how it's done. And she said, Vogue doesn't sit next to Harper's. Neiman Marcus doesn't sit next to Macy's. And, you know, she explained to me, she's like, celebrities sit separate from the editors and from the stores in case they say something stupid during the show. And, you know, because then they won't buy the collection. So, yeah, that's how we met her. And for 25 years that we were producing fashion shows, I always wanted to digitize the seating charts. But Mauricio was like, nope.
48:27and he'd bring out the board with the stickers. Even at the end. So what's the one takeaway you want people to know about Jean-Louis from the book? You know, like the gift of writing this book was to actually watch all 188 movies that he did. Yeah. You know, and, you know, just sort of as a history lesson of the 20th century and what brought us to where we are right now, it's actually really... Powerful. And if you're a visual person, as we are, you know, nothing really tells this history better than Jean-Louis' clothing, if you really think about it. What's your favorite movie he costumed? Born Yesterday.
49:14Oh, it's such a good movie. I don't know it. You don't know it? Please watch it tonight. It's Judy Holliday, William Holden. First of all, it's wonderful. It won Best Picture at the Academy Awards. It won Judy Holliday an Oscar. An Oscar. And she beat out Gloria Swanson for Sunset Boulevard. Wow. And Betty Davis in All About Eve. Yeah. And when you watch the movie, you're like, oh, she deserved it. So, you know, that's how good this movie is. But I do think his, if you look through all of his movies, it also shows the evolution of women in society and what they were allowed and were not allowed to do.
49:55And... It's all reflected, really. So it's a great history of not only how... It's an evolution. ...what women have had to go through, but visually, you know, sort of, like, overcoming, you know, the Hays Code, the McCarthy hearings, the Lavender Scare. There was so much going on in this, you know, time period. And, you know, that Jean-Louis could create and do what he did is absolutely astounding. And he empowered women through his clothing up until when he wore Marilyn that she empowered herself. So it really was like a whole revolution. Well, thank you both for coming on The Run-Through. Thank you.
50:38Thank you for having us. It was so much fun. We loved it.
50:45That's it for The Run-Through. See you Thursday.
50:50The Run Through the Vogue is produced by Chelsea Daniel, Alex DePalma, and Alex John Burns. Stephanie Kariuki is our executive producer. The show is engineered by Pran Bandy and mixed by Mike Kutchman.
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52:10Hi, I'm Rebecca Ford. And I'm John Ross. And we're the hosts of Little Gold Men, Vanity Fair's podcast for film, TV, and awards lovers. And just because the Oscars are done, for now, doesn't mean we are. Join us every week for coverage of the biggest stories in Hollywood, interviews with today's brightest stars, and so much more. Listen to Little Gold Men every Thursday, wherever you get your podcasts.
From the publisher
This week on The Run-Through, Chloe Malle and the team are celebrating the launch of Dogue, Vogue's annual ode to the canines we love most. This year, that meant staging the magazine's first-ever dog wedding. On August 2nd, at the Surrey Hotel on the Upper East Side, two Vogue staff dogs, Edie Berlinger Douglas and Tux Murillo, said "I do" in a custom Rachel Antonoff gown and Susan Alexandra jewels. The wedding kicks off a bigger Dogue rollout, including a cover contest winner (an Italian greyhound named Sir Spud), a staff dog shoot inside the Condé Nast studios, and new collaborations with Alex Mill, J.Crew, and ceramicist Henry Holland.
The episode's second half is a trip into old Hollywood, as Nicole Phelps sits down with Mauricio and Roger Padilha to discuss their new book, Jean Louis: Hollywood's Bombshell Designer. As research, the brothers watched all 188 films that the couture-trained costume designer worked on. Jean Louis's two most famous creations, Rita Hayworth's strapless black satin Gilda dress and Marilyn Monroe's sheer, crystal-strewn "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" gown, became touchstones far beyond their films.
Some of that reporting came courtesy of Kim Novak, who wrote the book's foreword . She gave a rare window into Jean Louis's process, including an anecdote about walking in on Marlene Dietrich mid-fitting for a soufflé-silk gown so sheer it required roughly 50 to 60 layers of fabric to stay decent. That same appetite for spectacle carried through to Monroe's final dress. Listen to the full episode of The Run-Through for both stories.
The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.
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