Vogue Editors Share Highlights From Paris Fashion Week

13:17Claire Thomson-Jonville:To Gucci, where there were no layers at all.

13:20Sarah Mow:Just one. And Aliyah, a very tiny layer. but I have to say like I saw some of the questions talking about accessories and I have to say that I'm the Parisian in me love for all the boots I love these like thigh boots and knee-high boots and even at um Hermes like you know if we're talking about the context of the show I think it's important to tell people like you know we were sort of like walking through this like sweaty stinking moss yeah it was what like sort of we're going to the countryside yeah um but the show I I wouldn't call that.

13:55Claire Thomson-Jonville:Is that what the peat is? You know, when I was like, I'm in the peat. I'm walking through the peat. That must be it, yeah. Like, it's like this thick, mossy, like, undercarriage of the forest. But I sort of loved it. Yeah, me too. But of course, I put them on the spot. I was like, what are you doing with this afterwards? Are you replanting it? She's like, go away.

14:11Sarah Mow:At least it's biodegradable.

14:14Claire Thomson-Jonville:Yeah, well, it's not like a plastic runway. I mean, I have to say, driving around, watching now the day after the shows, people breaking down these enormous box show venues is depressing.

14:27Sarah Mow:But I have to say that that is an important point because I remember last season Anna saying, Claire, you must speak to the Federation about, you know, like where all these shows are. They're far too far away. And, you know, this season I think has been better. Two outliers. Yeah, but like, yeah. But Dior in the park of the Toulerie overlooking one of the little lakes. That set looked incredible. I wasn't there for that show, but I feel like I felt how impressive it was even via social media.

14:57Claire Thomson-Jonville:Were you sweating long distance too? I had to turn around. Very hot.

15:02Sarah Mow:Nicole, I had to turn around. I was literally in the light magnified by the mirror or whatever it was. And so I just turned around and was like squatting with my back until the show actually started. And I saw Isabella Gianni that night at the Louvre. As you do. and she was like Claire I was like Isabel did you like the show and she said I was wearing a cape in cashmere it was terrible and I was like yeah I mean and who were your best dressed sorry who did you think was the best dressed of the night oh that's a good question well I was sitting next to Eva Herzegov who looked beautiful I don't know there was a lot of people wearing like wings and like strange looking things they don't even have one nike in samuel grace though they really go for it alex consani look pretty good people alex just looks good at in everything yeah i just feel like yeah she commands a room yeah she's a star i was looking at isabella johnny though and i was like wow you know i just was like in awe of that woman yeah oh my god in movies when i was a kid watching Isabella Gianni.

16:12Sarah Mow:Like there's just no comparison. She's just like a star as well.

16:16Claire Thomson-Jonville:But I did think that I was impressed with Dior, for example, these sort of designers doing big hits, like really going for it, especially at these houses that they have the resources for that. Same with, as Claire said, Celine. It felt like such a statement to be going, putting their stamp on Paris in a way that it almost felt like being part of the city. um uh new york-based designer nick auburn who's the designer of area was flying in at the moment of the dior show and he posted on instagram a photo from the plane where you could see the dior set from his flight coming into charles de gaulle and he he was it's sort of exciting yeah um okay but then also we like the intimate moments alaya was really powerful yeah mullier's goodbye because he you know the way they arranged the the seats there was space uh for standing room and which is not something you usually see at an alias show it's a very controlled environment but it felt like they invited all their friends there were you know there were kids and uh it was it was a touching goodbye for a guy who has made a really big impact um in five years at that brand but i

17:30Sarah Mow:I think he's just so classy that Peter and, you know, he I just think we talked about it during our global meeting. But, you know, like including, you know, the team photographs of the team, a book of the pictures of the people that he has been working with, including them, you know, in the show, watching the show. Like that's how you how do you say create a brand in a way for me that has like a meaning and like that you you know, when you wear a piece of a liar, you kind of get. You feel like part of Peter's thing that he's created, as much as Alaia was, as Adina Alaia, he's really succeeded, I think, in creating this moment.

18:10Sarah Mow:And I'm excited to see what he'll do at Versace. I think it's going to be amazing.

18:14Claire Thomson-Jonville:And it was so charming to see Raph and Mathieu Blaise sitting front row.

18:19Sarah Mow:Don't you think it's like a kind of a turning point when you think about the cult of personality that dominated before? You had Carl. You had designers who really built their personal image and it was never really about the team. And I think it feels like a modern way of leading. I think Mathieu very much does that too. You're seeing designers front row at the shows. There's much more of this sense of community. camaraderie yeah and I think that I think it's so important now especially because we're in this you know global digital age that you obviously you focus on the clothes but you also have to communicate the way you work right there's much more transparency and understanding the way that these houses work just brings a sense of soul to the work and emotion and you feel much more connected knowing that because we're in this moment when everything can feel very cold or in this digital moment where we all know AI is coming, but you, you know, AI doesn't have a soul.

19:16Sarah Mow:And I think these designers who are building something new, they're showing us that they're doing it with intention, with empathy and kindness. And that feels very different to the, to the world of fashion I knew when I entered, you know, 20 years ago. It's very different world. You know, like even the theme of folk world this year is about, you know, craftsmanship. And I think that this generation of designers are really putting the spotlight on the ateliers and the people that they're working with and I totally agree with you Choma that it brings like a value and who would spend 12 ,000 euros for a coat like it's just you have to tell those stories as well to kind of that's why things also have the value that they that they have because of the craftsmanship that's been that's been put into it yeah and um you know whether it is chloe or whether it's you know jean paul gautier and or whatever brand you can i really felt like from a styling point of view for for the issues that we're going to be working on there's such a like a variety of um and that's exciting when everyone doesn't do the same thing yeah i mean i think when i think back to being a sort of teenage me the styling of a show the styling of uh was what really I could relate to and try and recreate and I'm always thinking about how you put something together and how you present yourself and and that to me really came through and I think that that's where people who perhaps can't afford the Celine bag or the Dior bar jacket can think oh well perhaps I can try wearing a different trouser silhouette or I can put things I can make add personal jewelry to this look or I've been loving to see seeing all the editors wearing one collar outside and not having not everything being totally perfect it's totally intentional which I think may have started a while ago when Miu Miu started doing that kind of off-kilter slightly messy styling and now I'm seeing it on the streets and street style it's so interesting but these things help and guide young people who are excited about fashion who can't access it any other way one thing i will say is much to the dismay of hannah probably but to my delight there's a lot of black yeah so much black um so i don't know what that says about about now but it was really i thought quite the statement i'm like wow again everybody's got that memo um but i was gonna say because There's a question about any looks that you had your eye on in the collections.

21:50Sarah Mow:Let's see her. So I've made a list. It's quite long. Okay. Those sound are all smoking. I mean, I already have a few, but I definitely was like, okay, good. I'm going to have another one. From Milan, the Gucci low-slung trousers for sure. And that little parka, the little green parka. um i was wondering if i could get away with it would be those little frou-frou like the skirt at dior you know those kind of puffy so many mini skirts the jackets i love anyway but the skirt i was like maybe i thought you could do it i don't know because where was i saw i was at the show earlier yesterday magda butram and she was putting like these kind of puffy skirts with just like a roll neck like a black roll neck and i was like maybe i could do that with like a flat pump the skin tight mini dress is alaya i could do that maybe i was feeling if i'd done enough i'd done enough like crunches the morning um so those were the things i would be buying

22:53Claire Thomson-Jonville:claire thank you so much for joining us we can't wait to see you in that alaya mini dress we are going to take a short break we'll be back in a moment

23:13Sarah Mow:This episode of The Runthrough is brought to you by Bumble. Okay, so you've set up your Bumble profile, you've filled in your prompts, and you've added your favorite pictures. But how do you make sure the people you're meeting are who they say they are? Bumble's profile verification features are super quick and easy to use and give you the confidence that the people you're meeting are as authentic as you. It's just an extra helping hand so that you can feel more comfortable getting that first day into the diary. So download Bumble and verify your profile today.

23:55Claire Thomson-Jonville:I thought the row was really pretty. And the first half, I was like, oh, this is beautiful and chic and great for their customers. And then the second half, I was like, oh, they allowed themselves to sort of get a little weird and do everything looked sort of half finished, but in a really elegant way. And it felt a bit like if Jane Reitzman turned into Miss Havisham, it was sort of a fun devolution of their sort of perfect minimalist building block. I thought that was a nice intimate show experience. Our users will be pleased to know that five days later, we finally got the pictures from The Row.

24:31Claire Thomson-Jonville:They're live on the site now. Wow, thrilling. We should talk about Antonin Tron's debut at Bowman, which he had his own line at line for 10 years and Vogue is a big supporter of him. He calls his designs Madam Gray, but make it a T-shirt and works a lot in Jersey. and I thought it was a good beginning. He is a very talented designer and I think that Bowman is suddenly a place to get a very sophisticated cocktail dress or evening dress, but he needs to sort of let his freak flag fly a little bit more and be bolder on the runway. I agree.

25:14Sarah Mow:I love the jersey dresses. I didn't love the location for him.

25:17Claire Thomson-Jonville:No, I don't think it was the right location.

25:18Sarah Mow:No, no.

25:21Claire Thomson-Jonville:Although, Nicole and I got a delicious crepe around the corner afterward because it's right next to the sort of crepery street.

25:27Sarah Mow:Oh, is it? Good to know. I'll explore that next time. But yeah, I just thought it didn't feel like the right venue for him or the brand. But I did like those jersey dresses were just gorgeous.

25:38Claire Thomson-Jonville:I felt that way about McQueen as well in terms of venue. I feel like 8 p.m. on a Sunday in the tennis center, Sean's so cool and it would be so fun and dynamic for him to be showing in London with his community. That felt like maybe something they should be thinking more about. But I liked a lot of the pieces from McQueen. Shoma and I went to see him the day before and it was fun to see them in the showroom. I liked those slip dresses. I loved that little like Argyle, not Argyle, but Fair Isle bomber. With the bumster? Will you wear the bumster?

26:13Sarah Mow:I love that silhouette. I don't think I could pull it off, but I loved the sort of his version of the bumster, which was almost down to... With a little... Almost dangerously revealing. A sweetheart. It's not a sweetheart neckline, it's a sweetheart backline.

26:28Claire Thomson-Jonville:Backline.

26:29Sarah Mow:I think a lot of the women who wear his clothes are going to really love those pants because they're kind of just on the borderline of being dangerously revealing. but they're not. They're just... Well, I'd say from the front,

26:44Claire Thomson-Jonville:I was like, ooh, Virginia Smith silhouette. And then from the back, I was like, meh.

26:49Sarah Mow:Because I think we haven't had anything as risque as that since very low slunk, the very low slung trousers that we had in the early aughts and obviously the bumps, the original bumpsters. But I think it was a really cool interpretation of the bumpster.

27:06Claire Thomson-Jonville:Was Duran Lanting's second show? Oh, right. I thought it was stronger. Jean-Paul Gaultier. And definitely, I think he proved that he can do serious clothes, too. Last year was sort of jokey with the naked body, male naked body, body suits, which were probably the most divisive thing on the runway last season. You know, people really, really didn't like them. The Stella McCartney invite was obviously one of my favorites. and I'm very grateful to Nicole for giving me hers. So now I have one for both of my children. It was a My Little Pony, which someone was like, which generation? I was like, this is getting too deep into My Little Pony lore for me.

27:50Claire Thomson-Jonville:I don't know what gen pony it was, but that was very cute. And then the Stal McCartney show was at the stable at the Bois de Boulogne. And I just really liked that the Vogue runway write-up was called a knight to remember because she got knighted that evening.

28:06Sarah Mow:Yeah, I mean, it was the horse whisperer.

28:10Claire Thomson-Jonville:It's the same guy who did that horse performance several years ago at her show. And he's captivating to watch, right?

28:18Sarah Mow:Gorgeous. I just thought I was completely captivated. I didn't see the first show that he was involved with. So I was completely mesmerized by the performance of the horses. The venue was gorgeous. I'm sad I didn't get an invite because one of my core memories is actually losing my little pony as a child. Oh, wow. But it was really special. I do like it when designers bring in their hobbies, their passions, they integrate it into the show. It just brings a different layer and kind of invites you into their personality, their world in a way that's unexpected. And yeah, it was a really cool, really cool way to present clothes.

29:01Claire Thomson-Jonville:And then that night she was knighted by President Macron and felt very exciting. I want to know what fun dinners or parties you guys have gone to. Claire went to the Louvre dinner. My most exciting night was that my teenage niece has slept over and we had a really good time and ordered French fries and they were thrilled. But also there was a really fun Givenchy dinner. I sat next to Marissa Berenson, who put everyone to shame because Dara Allen across the table was talking about how she might go to Coachella for the first time. And Marissa was like, I don't go to music festivals anymore. Not since Woodstock.

29:39Claire Thomson-Jonville:And I was like, well, that'll do it.

29:43Claire Thomson-Jonville:What else? Jemma, what have you done?

29:45Sarah Mow:I went to La Perouse. Allo did a dinner there. And it's quite an iconic restaurant. It was once a brothel. It was once a brothel in the 1700s. And as the story goes, Amelia Gray told us the story that there are scratches on the mirror because the ladies of the night used to be given diamonds. And that was how they tested if they were real because diamonds are so hard.

30:15Claire Thomson-Jonville:But paste diamonds disintegrate on if you scratch them. So I thought that was. I got you looking. Yeah. that.

30:23Sarah Mow:I've been there a couple of times before. I hadn't, every time you go there, it's sort of a different experience because there were so many rooms and different tunnels. And I hadn't been in this room. And I just thought every time I go there, it's a different experience. It's a really cool place. So I was reminded of that.

30:37Claire Thomson-Jonville:That's a good point. And also speaking of like front row celeb sightings of the week, I'm very into this crazy season of industry. And Mahala. Yeah, she was there. Harold was at the dinner. And she also told me that they film industry in Cardiff in Wales, which I was shocked by, which I guess Cardiff is like the new Atlanta of the UK. It's like very tax friendly. News to me. Maybe I need to listen to that. I know, get on that. But I thought that front row, the highlights were really different configurations of the Love Story cast. Yeah. Either it was like Sarah Pidgeon at Loewe, Naomi Watts and Grace Gummer at Balenciaga, Dree Hemingway and Paul Anthony Kelly at Dior.

31:17Claire Thomson-Jonville:Like you really, that felt like the ubiquitous. He was at Tom Ford too. And he was absolutely devastating in his Tom Ford suit.

31:27Sarah Mow:Can you believe he almost, he was one of a thousand people to audition. Yeah, he was a Macy's model. And he almost, that was the last audition he was going to do before he moved back to Canada. Because he didn't, he was. We love these stories. Yeah. Isn't that cool? I've been watching Love Story every night, basically going home to watch it.

31:45Claire Thomson-Jonville:I know Choma and Les and I was like, I got to go. We were amused to hear there was a lookalike contest in New York. I'm so over lookalike contests. We're all talking about everyone doing personal best and finding themselves. I'm like, just be yourself. It's so irritating to me. The footage of the guy wearing a trench and rollerblades was quite funny. Teen Vogue was very embedded at that. They really did some good coverage. But yes, it looked very robustly attended. Speaking of Team Vogue and Vivian Wilson. We love Vivian. She's a friend of the pod. Also, she looked so fabulous at McQueen last night.

32:26Claire Thomson-Jonville:And I cannot get over her hair. I think it might be because Alice and I are obsessed with Rapunzel right now. But it's just insane.

32:32Sarah Mow:I love long hair.

32:35Claire Thomson-Jonville:Some hair care brand needs to sign her. You're here first.

32:38Sarah Mow:Yeah. Do you have any other break? My favorite breakout model of the season is Jackie Hooper. I love her too. I just was saying that. I want her for one of our stories. Her teeth, her bangs. She is. We love a gap tooth. Yeah, we love a gap tooth. And she's a Brit. She's from Southampton. Love, love, love Jackie.

32:55Claire Thomson-Jonville:And there was also, I thought Balenciaga and Givenchy had strong casting. It was two of the few shows that had body diversity on the runway. It's been a really tough season for that. I think Noor Khan, it's not her first season, but to me, she's really dominated the runways. It feels like she's either opening or closing every single show. And I love, I have to say, I know that this is Tale as Tole as a Time, but I love seeing when the models actually have fun with it and are enjoying themselves. Like Alex Consani and Lulu Tani posted a video yesterday of singing Only a Woman in the Car as like their last show as they were leaving.

33:32Claire Thomson-Jonville:And it's charming. And after Hermes, because there's always so much traffic from Hermes, which is at the Garden of Estonia in the 4th, to all the way back, like, into the center of the city. So I took the metro. And, like, there were, like, four models with their little Hermes gift bags just, like, chatting and so happy to be sort of jumping on the, you know, yellow line. It's nice to see their evolutions because it's a tough – I mean, Alex and Sonny last season was describing, like, the schedule. I mean, you don't know if you're booked until the night before. You're in fittings until midnight.

34:04Claire Thomson-Jonville:Your call time for like, you know, a 10 a.m. show is 7 a.m. It's very aggressive. The Run-Through will be back in a moment.

34:21Sarah Mow:This episode of The Run-Through is brought to you by Bumble. A picture tells a thousand words, but there's no need to stress over choosing the right ones for your profile. Whether you feel your best self submitting a picture of yourself on a mountain or all dressed up, Bumble's personalized tips will help you choose the pictures that show the real you, attracting people who get who you are right from the start. So download the app or refresh your Bumble profile today.

34:55Claire Thomson-Jonville:Welcome Sam Sussman, friend of the pod. What's been your highlight of the week? Tell us about the Celine boys. We saw so many boys at Dior. They're all in gray at Celine.

35:06Sarah Mow:They had really, really cute ties on. And all the boys are very cute themselves. So it's an extra thing to see as you're going into the shows. What do the boys do, Sam?

35:17Claire Thomson-Jonville:Oh, they're handing you some nice waters.

35:20Sarah Mow:They're ushers. They're helping you find your seat. But my theme of the season is hot, hot, hot.

35:26Claire Thomson-Jonville:In fact, not just boys, but the temperatures inside all the sharks. I know. It is a very early spring here in Paris. The Magnolias have sort of come and gone. I know. We've all had to get allergy medicine. I've been seeing like Jose, Willow, me. We've been like running into pharmacies to get antihistamines because it's never this blossoming. But yes, you're absolutely right. Show venues, Celine was very warm. We've talked about Dior. Balenciaga was hot and airless. Oh, Nicole, do you want to tell us what the Balenciaga Euphoria collab was? First of all, there was a total madhouse outside. I think they had gotten word that some Euphoria stars would be in the crowd.

36:10Claire Thomson-Jonville:I cannot wait for that show. April 12th or April 16th, count the weeks. You're my OG Euphoria fan. And Pierpaolo Piccioli is also in his second season at Balenciaga. And he is friends with Sam Levinson, the creator of Euphoria. And they decided to do a sort of impromptu hookup where some of the visuals from season three were on screen. So there were actually visuals from the show?

36:37Sarah Mow:I couldn't quite tell.

36:38Claire Thomson-Jonville:Yes, because you haven't seen season three yet. So you're getting a little preview. Yeah.

36:42Sarah Mow:I always love the costume design of that show. Heidi Bevins, who's been on the pod before. Friend of the pod. Friend of the pod. She does such a good job. So I'm excited. I'm excited for the fashion. I'm excited for the storylines. I'm very excited.

36:56Claire Thomson-Jonville:I'm excited to go home and watch like a full weekend of TV. We've missed so much being in Paris and Milan for two weeks.

37:04Sarah Mow:So after this long marathon, everyone says, are you taking a break? And I say we're heading to the Oscars.

37:09Claire Thomson-Jonville:It is crazy. There are quite a few people who are taking a Thursday or a Wednesday flight directly Paris, LA. Yeah, a lot of people are doing that. Not my favorite flight.

37:17Sarah Mow:Some people are going to Rome to see Valentino and then they're going to the Oscars.

37:21Claire Thomson-Jonville:Of course, Hamish Bowles is going to Rome. So yeah, Sam will be on the ground. There's a lot of things happening. There's a Dior W party. There's a Chanel Charles Finch dinner that they always do. There's the CAA party. There's Armani party.

37:38Sarah Mow:There's another Dior beauty party actually happening tonight. So they're starting Oscar week early with Rihanna.

37:44Claire Thomson-Jonville:We'd love that for that. Wow. And then obviously on Sunday, there's the Oscars and the Vanity Fair Oscar party in a new location, the more intimate venue at LACMA. So that's very exciting. And it's been fun to see all of the dramatic evening wear and wondering who is going to wear what for the Oscars. So can't wait. I know. I've got some ideas. but we're gonna see.

38:13Claire Thomson-Jonville:We met with Mathieu on Sunday and he read us a beautiful quote from Coco Chanel where she talked about how women are caterpillars by day and butterflies by night. So the collection really evolves from like basic, basic black suits in ribbed wool knit, which Mathieu said was his favorite. The simplest thing. And two incredibly extravagant, but still quite sort of relaxed evening pieces. And wearable, but totally fantastical. Yes, in iridescent colors with just really exquisite embroideries. And I love that he said that Coco Chanel apparently once said, Chanel is fiction and function. And you really see that.

39:03Claire Thomson-Jonville:And I mean, it's quite literal in some ways the way the first chapter of the show is Caterpillar. It's day wear, things you can wear, whatever you need throughout the day. And then it sort of transitions to the moth, which you see these beautiful prints that look like moth wings, which unfortunately I'm very familiar with from my closet. And then transitions into butterflies, which is the most beautiful sort of celadon, iridescent celadon. And everything from, you know, dragonfly earrings to also, again, lily pads, which it's interesting to see how designers share references without even realizing because obviously Dior was very lily pad based.

39:46Sarah Mow:I wonder what it means for the set. Are we going to be walking into a... We can tell you. Oh, yeah.

39:52Claire Thomson-Jonville:Oh, yeah. What was the invite? The invite was a tape... A ruler, right? A ruler, sorry. Yeah, the invitation was a fold-out ruler, which that was very pretty. So maybe that's like the caterpillar coming out into her butterfly if you extend her. That's a stretch. So what's the set? Yeah, what's the set? The set was inspired by Monet's Water Lilies, but actually, as Anna said, looks like your Legos, Chloe. Wait, the Dior one? No, Chanel. Oh, so Water Lilies. Oh, okay. Yeah, it's also Monet-inspired or sort of has an impressionist base, but doesn't look like that at all. It's neon scaffolding. Oh, so did you see pictures?

40:33Claire Thomson-Jonville:Yeah, we saw a picture of the neon scaffolding and it's sort of an iridescent, almost looks like an oil spill, iridescent oil spill floor. Fabulous.

40:41Sarah Mow:My March cover star, Badi Tha Mandava, has just been announced as a house ambassador. So I'm sure she'll either open or close Chanel. I'm super excited to see her.

40:52Claire Thomson-Jonville:All right. Thank you, guys. Thank you. Happy Chanel Day to you. Happy Chanel Day. To those who celebrate.

41:05Claire Thomson-Jonville:The Run-Thru is produced by Chelsea Daniel, Alex DePalma, and Alex John Burns. This episode is mixed by Pran Bandy.

41:22Sarah Mow:This episode of The Runthrough is brought to you by Bumble. Okay, so you've set up your Bumble profile, you've filled in your prompts, and you've added your favorite pictures. But how do you make sure the people you're meeting are who they say they are? Bumble's profile verification features are super quick and easy to use and give you the confidence that the people you're meeting are as authentic as you. It's just an extra helping hand so that you can feel more comfortable getting that first date into the diary. So download Bumble and verify your profile today.