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Podcast Summary: The Run-Through with Vogue - Episode: Vogue in the 90s with Edward Enninful | PLUS Ride Along with Gold Medalist Gabby Thomas
Episode Overview In this episode, Edward Enninful, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, joins the hosts Chloe Malle and Chioma Nnadi to discuss his new documentary series, In Vogue: The 90s, which explores the significant fashion moments of the 1990s. The episode also features a fun ride-along segment with Olympic gold medalist Gabby Thomas as they head to the Tommy Hilfiger fashion show.
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Key Discussions
Segment 1
Edward Enninful on the 90s Fashion Scene
- Documentary Insights: Enninful shares insights from his documentary series, highlighting:
- The birth of the supermodel and influential figures like Naomi Campbell.
- The emergence of grunge fashion and the influence of hip-hop on the fashion industry.
- Notable moments from the decade, including Tom Ford's impact at Gucci and Calvin Klein.
- Personal Anecdotes:
- Enninful reminisces about his youth as the youngest fashion director at ID Magazine and the friendships he formed during this formative period.
- He recalls his initial encounters with fashion icons, including his awe upon meeting Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss.
- Cultural Reflections:
- The documentary reflects on the cultural shifts of the 90s, emphasizing authenticity and spontaneity in fashion.
- Enninful discusses the seamless intersection of fashion, music, and art during this vibrant decade.
Segment 2
Gabby Thomas at New York Fashion Week
- Fashion Week Highlights: Chloe Malle shares her experience attending the Tommy Hilfiger show with Gabby Thomas, discussing:
- The unique venue of the Staten Island Ferry and the excitement it generated.
- Memorable moments from Fashion Week, including performances by the Wu-Tang Clan and appearances by celebrities such as Rihanna and Madonna.
- Gabby's Experience: Gabby discusses her transition from Olympics to the fashion world, sharing:
- Her personal fashion journey and the special significance of wearing Tommy Hilfiger.
- The balance between her athletic career and her growing interest in fashion, including her jewelry choices and styling preferences for competitions.
Segment 3
Fashion and Politics
- Cultural Moments: The hosts reflect on the overlapping themes of fashion and politics in current events, including the recent debates and Taylor Swift's influence.
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Key Takeaways
- Edward Enninful's Contributions: His perspective as a chronicler of fashion history provides a deeper understanding of the transformative 90s and its lasting influence on contemporary fashion.
- Gabby Thomas's Journey: Highlights the crossover between athletics and fashion, showcasing how athletes are increasingly becoming style icons and influencers.
- Fashion Week Excitement: The energy of New York Fashion Week underscores the vibrancy and dynamism of the fashion industry, merging entertainment, celebrity, and culture.
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Conclusion This episode of The Run-Through with Vogue not only dives into the nostalgia of 90s fashion but also highlights the current interplay between sports and fashion, making it a compelling listen for fashion enthusiasts and cultural observers alike. The blend of historical insights and modern experiences paints a rich tapestry of the fashion world both past and present.
For more insights, be sure to check out In Vogue: The 90s streaming on Hulu and Disney+.
Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.
Transcript
Automatic transcript. May contain errors.0:28This is The Run Through. I'm Chloe Mal. this series. It was such a fun watch. I can't believe you watched in one day, Choma. That is insane. It's unprecedented, even for me. I'm not that girl. What a testament. That should be the pull quote everyone uses. For a little background about the show, In Vogue the 90s is a deep dive into some of the biggest moments in fashion from that decade, from the birth of the supermodel, the intersection of hip-hop and fashion, Tom Ford's Gucci, Calvin Klein, and so much more. They're such amazing interviews. Yeah. And I mean, we were so lucky to be able to speak with Edward Ennenfeld, who's such a huge part of that moment in fashion and a huge part of this series.
1:11When you think about it, he went from being the youngest fashion director at ID Magazine at only 18 in the early 90s, he was modeling too at that age, went for the same job as Kate Moss, which was quite hilarious to hear about and talk about. Right? But first, so Chloe, I know you went to a New York fashion show with a really special guest. I did. I felt very special. I went to the Tommy Hilfiger show, which was on the Staten Island Ferry, which was a hands-down highlight of my fashion week. But it started out very high. I didn't think you could beat my ride over there, but honestly, the Wu-Tang Clan did.
1:54but on my drive to the show I rode along with Olympic track gold medalist Gabby Thomas no way I saw her at the Olympics from a very very long distance and and she's amazing what's she like in person she's so lovely so gorgeous it was her and her boyfriend it was their first fashion show they were so excited she was so sort of correct and proper she had her really cute little Tommy outfit on and was so gracious. And it was really fun to chat with her about all the amazing jewelry she wears and the sort of endless drama of how to wear her hair and the feedback she gets about that. It's just so fascinating to hear how much these athletes have to be juggling all the time.
2:43It's wild. You can hear a bit about our conversation as we chugged along in traffic to the South Street Seaport. Gabby, we're so excited. I have to say that in the Vogue offices, it was like a huge moment and very fun for me to see all of these super fashion-y people going extremely all-in for the Olympics. And we would get into the office in the morning and be like, did you see Gabby last night? Did you see her jewelry? Did you see everything? I felt like just globally, everyone was watching the Olympics this year and we were all so excited about it. And it's so fun that, of course, immediately we were all like, well, we have to go to fashion week with her.
3:22Yeah, I mean, this has been a lot of fun. It's definitely a new experience for me just being in the sports world and now having the opportunity to be exposed to new things. And I'm actually on my way to Tommy Hilfiger right now. And I'm dressed in all Tommy Hilfiger, which is such a dream come true. I mean, I remember wearing Tommy ever since I was a young girl. Really? Yeah. Do you remember your first Tommy Hilfiger outfit? Yeah, I had this Tommy Hilfiger t-shirt. I remember it had like the logo was glittery. It was so cute. I loved it. It was my favorite T-shirt ever. Yeah, I can't wait. And just describing for people listening, Gabby's doing a great sort of collegiate fall vibe with a houndstooth blazer and a cable knit sweater dress and very cute burgundy Mary Janes.
4:05As I said, everyone at Vogue was very into your jewelry. and we had a lot of questions about how you run and everything. Do you change it up or do you have like, these are the pieces I'm wearing every single time I race because they're my good luck charms. Yeah, I'm not very superstitious when I run. So I kind of just go with the mood and the vibe that I'm feeling. I think a big part of track is just expressing yourself and wearing what you can and what you can get away with without impairing your performance too much. And so I really like to go with bracelets and rings. because I feel like they're subtle.
4:40They're not too distracting, but they, you know, provide me with an opportunity to kind of express my style a little bit. And so I always, I'm almost always wearing an Omega watch. I have a little bit of permanent jewelry on just because it's easy. And then I like the concept of permanent jewelry. What does that mean? Well, so yeah, I have these bracelets and rings that I just have bonded on. So I don't even have to worry about switching them out. And they're really simple. And where did you get them? These ones, I got them in Austin. And I can't even remember. I think I did them just at a local farmer's market, to be honest.
5:11Just like an easy. Yeah. Are the Olympic ring rings new? Oh, yeah. So the Olympic rings ring is new. My boyfriend just got them for me. And so I actually just swapped out my Olympic rings necklace for the ring. Amazing. Yeah, there's a jeweler that does a lot of our Olympic jewelry. A lot of different athletes will use the same jeweler. Is the same thing go for your beauty and like your nails? Do you feel like you always want to have your nails done? Nails are really fun in track. I mean, we always have our nails done in track and field. It's one of those unspoken rules, and everyone has their different styles with how they do their nails.
5:45It's one of those things where you look at your competitors, and it kind of says a lot about them. You're like, okay, I see what you're going with today. Yeah, I see your vibe. So, like, if you don't know someone well, you'll just look and see their nails. It's like dog sniffing. Yeah, exactly, like in the best way. So mine are always just very, very simple. They're always like almost almost always just a nude color, a little bit long, but kind of like sport long. Not too much. So I can still get in my block start position. But a lot of the girls will have really, really long, flashy nails on the line, too, which I think is really fun.
6:16Wow. OK. Do you have like a makeup routine before competing that you do that you sort of swear by? Or is there always one consistent approach that you're taking? I mean, I like to keep it very light because we are still competing and it's kind of a long day with showing up, warming up and then competing. So, I mean, really just a natural look, some foundation, some lip gloss and a little bit of lashes. Keep it simple. And is that true for your hair, too? The hair, the hair is a whole nother battle. That's a tough one. I mean, and we're under such scrutiny with our hair all the time, too. So I'm very, very thoughtful and careful about how I do my hair before I race.
6:56I think the best thing we could do is like at this point I used to wear it down all the time every time I competed I would wear it down but now I just put it back in a ponytail slick it back why do my edges if I'm being completely honest it's because I just get so tired of the criticism and I hate that for me but I'm just so tired of it and yeah anytime you do anything with your hair like wear it down or just have it look remotely imperfect it just becomes a huge deal um so I'm just I like how back Simone handled that yeah she just shut it down right and I love that for her because sometimes you just really have to especially her I mean it's not like she was doing anything crazy with her hair she wore it back in a bun or ponytail like it's 97 degrees on this bus it looked really good when I left right I just don't I don't get it and you're doing flips through air like we're literally sprinting as fast as humanly possible but somehow the hair is the issue.
7:48Yeah. It's crazy. What was the biggest pinch me moment at the Olympics? Like I loved, didn't Snoop Dogg, what did he do? He gave you a hug. Oh yeah. Well, Snoop Dogg was around a lot. He would come to our relay practice and come hang out with us. Um, he gave me a call right after my 200, but I think maybe he just gave you a call. Yeah. He gave me a phone call, which was so funny immediately after it was so sweet. Um, gosh, he, I mean, he congratulated me and he said he knew it and that, you know, I was his favorite to win. And so I was so honored to hear that. But my biggest pinch me moment was probably doing relay handoffs with the first lady.
8:22Oh, wow. That's a big one. Yeah, it was huge. And she did a great job. She caught on very, very quickly. I just think it must be wild to be at the Olympics and then come home. And is it like everything's back to normal? Does it feel a little postpartum in a way that it's like this huge moment? And like, what did you do when you got home? I haven't been able to spend much time at home if I'm being completely honest. So I don't even think I've had a moment to kind of sit with it and, you know, part with the fact that I was at the Olympics because it just feels like I'm still living in it. So we went straight from Paris to New York and did all of that.
8:55I went home briefly and I'm still training for my last meet of the season. Is that Athlos? Athlos here in New York. So we're still in competition mode a little bit. I saw a really cute video of you seeing your dog again for the first time in a while. Oh my goodness. Is he confused? Was he mad at you? I think he was a little mad at me because, yeah, when I went home and I opened my suitcase to unpack, he definitely went potty in it. And he was telling me that he was upset about how long I had been gone for. So I felt kind of bad about that. But being reunited with my puppy was amazing. When did you get him?
9:31Where did he come from? I got Rico at a rescue shelter, Austin Humane Society, back in 2020. We are in the car with Spencer. How did you guys meet? You both grew up in Atlanta? Yes, we both grew up in Atlanta, but I did meet him in Austin, Texas. Okay. And we live together now. We just moved in together maybe, you know, six months ago, I think. Has Rico been accepting of Spencer? Yes, I think Rico loves having another person around. And Spencer works from home, so it's great. He just has a buddy at home all the time. Yeah. So it's been incredible. And Gabby, you also, you have a master's in public health.
10:10You also work at a public health clinic. How much, how are you able to do that time-wise? Like, what does that look like for your schedule? It really, it looks like, you know, I get up in the morning and I go to training for a few hours. And then when I'm not training, I come back and in my downtime, I'm able to utilize that by doing clinic work. So a lot of the clinic work can be done remotely, which is nice. What I do there is I'm a director of the hypertension intervention program. So a lot of it is just checking in on the patients. And that's something that can be done from anywhere. And then going into the clinic maybe once a week.
10:44And then we have our monthly meetings. I kind of compare it all the time to just being a collegiate athlete. Anyone who did sports in college or even in high school can probably just relate to compartmentalizing your time and breaking it up. That's like your classes. Yeah, exactly. Exactly. Are you, would you say that you are a big fashion person? Do you love fashion? Like where do you shop? What are you buying? I would say that I'm, yeah, I'm, I'm pretty normal. I think I'm mid, I like to wear what makes me comfortable. And what I feel good in. And it's not normally, you know, about exactly where I'm going or who I'm buying it from.
11:16In Austin, it's such a kind of casual fashion scene. So I'm a big athleisure girl. I mean, I love wearing whatever makes me feel comfortable, whatever makes me feel like myself. So kind of like a sporty chic look. Did you buy anything in Paris? hmm did I buy anything yeah I bought some sunglasses I was really excited about they were some Chloe sunglasses and I just I'm I love them so much and yeah and I picked up some from Tommy Hill figure two um this week and I just I love I'm in a big sunglasses phase right now who are your like who would be your favorite your dream person to run into at a fashion show like who's your Zendaya okay yeah Zendaya she's my my fashion inspo and icon yes all of us yes I channel her.
12:00Is this where we are? Yeah, so do you guys want to say goodbye and thank you? Gabby, thank you so much for riding along with us. This is such a treat. Where you're really a vote favorite. Yay, thank you. It's been so much fun. It's great to break up the ride.
12:21That was so fun. How was the Tommy show? I have to say New York Fashion Week has been really a delight. The weather has been exquisite, which always helps. Tommy on the ferry felt so classic Americana. It felt like this real celebration of New York in a big way. The Wu-Tang Clan performed, which was everyone lost their minds. It was a very exciting method man fist pumped Anna, which was a big moment. Wait, I didn't tell you that? Oh, it was incredible. No, no. I've been sharing moments because I'm such a Wu-Tang fan. clips I've seen with my boyfriend. Because I'm like, oh, they're still amazing.
12:58They still got it. I didn't know that also happened. It was Method Man came up and tried to fist pump her and she thought that he was inviting her to dance with him. So she waved and said, no, no. And then it was really a delightful moment. Oh my gosh. Hilarious. They had really a fun front row. You know, it's this ferry that Colin Jost and Pete Davidson bought a few years ago. So have they changed it? Is there anything different about it? No, it's still decommissioned and needs to be renovated. And they have plans of making it like a moving entertainment venue, but that hasn't happened yet. So they actually, Tommy tugged the boat from the Staten Island dockyard to the South Street Seaport.
13:41And it didn't move. You just went on the ferry. You were greeted with champagne and caramel popcorn, which was delightful. everyone received an actual metal fairy token as their invite so they really leaned into the bit and it just felt extremely vibrant and fun and that was the case for a lot of shows the next earlier that day at Off-White they turned this basketball court at Pier 2 of Brooklyn Bridge Park into Off-White's runway they took over the backboard of the basketball hoop and branded it Off-White. Oh, wow. They had a really starry front row. Francis Tiafoe and his girlfriend sat next to Anna.
14:23Suni Lee was there, the Olympic gymnast, Flavor Flav, Zayn Malik, Kamiya Cabello. So it was just a fun. People were really into that show and having a good time. As you heard on the Tuesday episode with Nicole Phelps and her amazing interview with Peter Muller, which everyone should listen to if they haven't yet. I love that interview. The Aliyah show was definitely the moment of the week. Everyone sort of waiting breathlessly, not knowing for who. And then suddenly Rihanna appeared like Venus on the half shell. And that was very exciting. Madonna also showed up at Luar, right? Madonna showed up at Luar last night.
15:05I was like, front row. I have to say I've been getting a lot of FOMO watching all of the New York shows. It just it felt like New York was sparkling. And also, again, using New York like Luar had their show out in the plaza of Rockefeller Center where the tree usually is. And I just love the idea of Madonna. Christian wrote a fun sort of party like scene report from Luar because it was tourists checking out Rock's 30 Rock and then Madonna and Ice Spice showing up. Also, people just leaning into their own brand identity and sort of embracing their weird. Like Rachel Antonov and Susan Alexandra had this dog show fashion show.
15:48I know. I loved your ghost written piece. I howled. Well, literally.
15:55Yes, I wrote a piece as from the point of view of one of the dogs that were in the show. And actually, I urge everybody to read it if they want to smile today or if they're having a bad day, go read the story. Well, Rachel texted me yesterday that apparently someone reached out to the rescue place and said, we read a piece on Vogue.com. Is Magnolia still available for adoption? We want to adopt her. I was like, this is true service journalism. She found a home for Magnolia. So, yeah, we were we really enjoyed that. The Will H of Aria show was a real highlight, too. People were very excited to be there.
16:30The energy was really good. His Adidas collaboration, the pieces were amazing. You're going to go nuts for them, Choma. I can't wait. That felt like a real, very important moment of Fashion Week, I think. And everyone should listen to Jose's interview with Willie, which is amazing, which was last Thursday's episode. But again, people sort of, especially in this moment, obviously it's we're thinking about these contrasts with the debate last night. And yeah, I woke up to a lot of hot takes on the debate. We wanted to get your hot take. Yeah, the debate was last night. It was stressful to watch.
17:08But I think the vice president did as well as she could have considering the circumstances. And then this morning. I'm a Swifty convert now. Oh, my God. And now then Taylor happened. And then this morning, they're all downstairs at our building at the 9-11 ceremony. So it does feel like politics is close this and the U.N. General Assembly is starting today. So it does feel like politics and Fashion Week are overlapping. When I say it was a Swifty convert, I mean, I just love that she endorsed Kamala. Well, I have to say, though, it was like 1130 last night. I was like, for God's sake, can any more news happen this week?
17:43It's like. Chloe, I think you and I, we have similar taste in best dressed lists. Oh, my God. That was so fun. Yes. On the new Vogue app, new and improved. So many fun features and very newsy. Yeah. It means we've been updating it all weekend. But some of the new features are quizzes and polls. And best dressed is one of the polls. I love them. And what I love about it is that it tells you whose taste you share. and my best dressed picks were the same as one Chomanadi. I said, ah, I know her. Great minds. Great minds think alike. So I encourage everyone to download the Vogue app. If you already were using the Vogue Runway app, it automatically will update to the new Vogue app and you'll still be able to access everything from Vogue Runway.
18:31But there's just also all of the content from Vogue.com and many new things. Choma, I want to know what the scuttlebutt in London is about Sarah Burton going to Givenchy because we're very excited. I think everyone here is elated. I mean, she's such a beloved designer and specifically in the UK. It's been a year since she showed her last collection for McQueen and I think we've all been waiting for Sarah to step into her own light. And I think this will really give her an opportunity to do that. And the legacy of Givenchy obviously has some major British talent there. from Lee McQueen to John Galliano.
19:12So this is a really great move for her. And we're all excited and obsessed. And it was interesting hearing Nicole talk about the fact that she's very excited for the couture and Givenchy has couture. And I think it's going to be really, really great to see what she does. The only bad thing is that we have to wait until next season, right? The only bad thing is we have to wait. Gosh, this week's busy. So, Choma, I want to know, what are the highlights of London Fashion Week going to be? Well, I feel like we have a lot to live up to, given how fun New York has been and how starry it's been. So I'm hoping for some good moments.
19:51I can't reveal, but I do have some good intel. I do think there are going to be some good moments. I can't tell. A lady can't reveal all of her secrets. Well, apparently, Charli XCX is performing for H &M. So people are excited about that. Yes. That is going to be the big kickoff. I think everyone is going to be exhausted the next morning before the whole week has even started because they're all going to be partying all night to Charlie XCX. I mean, she really is the moment here. So I think most of the team here are going to said event. Yeah. And then we've got some really fun. We've got Nancy DeJoker, who is a name who was kind of off the schedule for a long time and she's unveiling a collab with Calvin Klein, which is a really big moment for her.
20:42I'm sure the casting will be amazing. SS Daily, which the brand that's been kind of partially invested by Harry Styles, is showing women's wear for the first time. So I think that will be a really great show. There's a brand called Standing Ground, which almost shows like Demi Couture, very these beautiful kind of liquid gorgeous evening dresses that you don't usually see at fashion week and he's doing his first solo show so we're all very excited about that always always always looking forward to simone we always know jw anderson on a sunday is going to throw us some very fun front row and also some some kind of out there fashion ideas for us to all think about all season long.
21:30So that'll be great. And then things will kind of like end on Burberry. So on the Monday. Very exciting.
21:44The run through will be back in just a moment.
21:57Hi, I'm Rebecca Ford, senior awards correspondent at Vanity Fair and co-host of Little Gold Men. Oscar season is upon us. Little Gold Men takes you behind the scenes of the race for the biggest prize in Hollywood. There's a hundred wrestlers in the room, but only one can be Oscar nominated. Whether you're a movie lover or an industry buff, Little Gold Men from Vanity Fair has everything you need to know about this year's Oscar race. Follow and listen to Little Gold Men wherever you get your podcasts.
22:36And we're back. We had such a great convo with Edward. I mean, I think about all the fun anecdotes. And I'm already cackling. So I can't wait for you all to hear it.
22:56Edward, it's such a treat to have you back on the podcast. Thank you so much for joining us. Thank you for having me again. I loved the last time I was here. Today we're here for a really special reason. In Vogue the 90s comes out on Hulu on September 13th. it's a six part retrospective of some of the most jaw dropping moments from the decade in fashion and as it played out in the pages of Vogue I've watched all the episodes and I absolutely love them and it was such a delight to see you in them and I felt like your voice really carried the audience through the series what was it like re-immersing yourself in this time and looking back I mean you know as anyone who knows me knows I don't really look back I'm I'm very forward-looking.
23:40I'm always looking forward. But it was really fun. It was really fun to think of the early days. You know, it was before the industry, as we know today. So it was just a lot of reminiscing, a lot of laughs, and also sort of thinking of so many people who'd sort of come and gone. So it was, yeah, quite good, but also quite sad sometimes, I'll say. I have to say, really, you feel your joy looking back at those times and really living through it. And as viewers, you vicariously get to live through you looking at everything. And there were so many incredible moments that I feel like I remember the visual of something, but then to hear the backstory of it, like the Liz Hurley safety pin dress, I thought was wild that she just called a PR person, said, can I borrow a dress?
24:32They handed her a paper bag with a slinky dress in it. She put it on. She didn't have a full-length mirror in her flat with Hugh, so she didn't realize how incredible and revealing it was. I mean, it's just unbelievable. Was there anything that you learned from the documentary that you were like, oh, I didn't know that? I mean, I didn't realize how much fun it was. I realized that we were all so young and we were all learning. You know, now we've been around, you know, decades, but at that time, you know, we were sort of making mistakes and learning by them and, you know, learning by trial and error.
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25:07So it's just like a really sweet, naive time, I'll say, the beginning of the 90s anyway. A favorite tidbit that I'm thrilled to now have in my arsenal of knowledge is that Kim Kardashian was Madonna's dog walker. I just feel like the series does such a wonderful job of really they got everyone to talk and relive this moment that came together in this incredible seismic way for the fashion industry. you know the 90s was so special you know when most people think about it they have such great memories you know we were coming from out of sort of the 80s where everything was so excessive and glamorous and and you know we were all trying to find our way in this sort of this new decade really yeah I mean you mentioned how you were all so young and I remember going to a Wolfgang Tillman's exhibit and seeing a very young picture of you modeling and it was so cool to hear the backstory of how you were stopped on the street to model.
26:06Tell us a little bit about where you were, what that year was and that moment and what it meant to you. I was spotted sort of a few years before that picture on my way to Sixth Form College by an incredible stylist called Simon Foxton. And, you know, we just moved from Ghana a few years before. I didn't really know what fashion was. So I'm on the train on the way to Sixth Form College and this guy was staring at me and of course being sort of a shy Christian boy I was a little bit nervous but he turned out to be Simon Fox and he gave me his card and at the time he was sort of probably one of the top stylists in the UK for our ID magazine, Arena magazine, was it The Face magazine and he asked me to sort of model for him I didn't even know what modeling was and I remember going home and telling my mom I met this great guy and he wants me to be a model my mom said no I love that Being a 16-year-old I kind of wore her down And a few weeks later She called Simon And Simon picked me up And took me to a photographer's house And the photographer was Nick Knight So you imagine The first shoot was with Nick Knight Okay And you know Nick started photographing me And then I'd go to college And then the days off I'd help Simon Foxton You know, assist him On shoots And then I had a model agency So I was trying to do everything at that age.
27:30Wow. If your mom had succeeded in not letting you model, what do you think you would be doing today? I think I'd probably be a lawyer. Interesting. I was brought up, you know, from the age of sort of four to be a lawyer. So it was sort of all I knew. And then I, can you imagine that I discovered this world and I'm going to nightclubs, I'm meeting people like Judy Blame, Lee Bowery, sort of people who are really, you know, Boy George, people, Fat Tony, people who are making in the screen. I was like, I'm not going to college. I am not going to finish university. And I'm going to really be a part of this incredible world.
28:09And that was really, I mean, this time period we're talking about late 80s, early 90s, that was the birth of the supers. What was that like for you? Do you remember that shift from models just being women who put on clothes to being people who really were personalities and stars on their own? I mean, you know, sort of in the early 90s, I met another model at a casting. She was a couple of years younger than me. And we both went out for a job for Pepe Jeans that I didn't get. And she got, and it was Kate Moss. So I met Kate even before she became big. And I remember when Kate started doing well, we became aware of sort of, you know, Naomi Campbell, another English model who was doing well in America.
28:55And then we became aware of Linda Evangelista and Christie and all of them. But the great thing was, as we were becoming aware of them, I started working at ID Magazine. And I remember ID, the period, was going through sort of, it'd been such a huge magazine in the 80s for street fashion that it was sort of finding its way in the early 90s. And I remember thinking, we have to get these girls and put them on covers. We have to. And the first one to say yes was, I think, Chrissy Tarlington and then Helena Christensen. And I was always sort of obsessed with working with Naomi Campbell because she was from London.
29:30And when we got Naomi to do the cover, I mean, then sort of the 90s sort of opened up to London, essentially, because, you know, London was always sort of, you know, we never went to shows in New York. We never went to shows in Milan. We stayed in London. The supermodels really helped sort of break that. So at this point, you just met Naomi. Describe how you two became close. So I remember it was an idea and we wanted to do a cover of Naomi. I think it was around 92, 93, 93, I think. And of course, we could only get her doing the couture shows in Paris, which was in January. So I remember a photographer called Jenny Howarth and myself.
30:10Jenny was an incredible model in the 80s. She was taking pictures. So we were sort of working together. we we got the plane to Paris and we waited outside the Chanel show and I remember the first girl out after the show was Cursing McManamy and I remember she had on like a kilt and she was really loud and then Linda came out and then Naomi came out with sort of curly Whitney Houston I remember Whitney Houston's hair at the time curly sort of a curly bob and she had a floral dress on and um a denim jacket and I remember thinking my god that's the most beautiful woman I've ever seen we got on straight away um we did an incredible cover for ID and she was like I'm going to Dublin why don't you come with us you know and I remember I'm not joking Chuma I had 20 pounds in my pocket wow oh my god we still laugh about it today I made some excuse about going back home and um And that's how we met.
31:06She kind of blew me away with her beauty and just said, oh, let's go party in Dublin. And I couldn't afford it. Who could resist? What I loved about the first couple episodes is the description of grunge. And it really goes beyond fashion that you really feel that the way people were living was very on the fly. It was quite spontaneous. People were doing things they were excited about that they felt strongly about. I love the quote that you say in the documentary. It says, we weren't rich. We were just trolling the market. We wanted the magazine to reflect the world we lived in, which was how you described ID.
31:42Do you remember the moment when grunge sort of took hold and became part of the greater culture rather than just your subculture, so to speak? I think it began with Kate and Calvin Klein. Especially the photographers who are the, you know, the stars of today were all starting men. David Sims, Juergen Teller, Glenn Latchford, Craig McDean. We all hang out. And I remember when Calvin Klein came to sort of book Kate because she was this fresh-faced London ingenue. That's when grunge really went global, when Kate stepped in America because Kate brought all of us with her, all her friends, all her photographer friends and all her stylist friends, Melanie Ward, Vinny Shiscoa, everybody all of a sudden was working in America.
32:30And America also sat up and noticed this incredible energy coming out of London. So you had David Smith, and the same shooting Calvin Klein, and Craig and myself. And that's when I thought, oh, something's really happening. But the beauty of Grungeworth, it wasn't just fashion. You know, we worshipped Kurt Cobain. We worshipped Seattle. We loved the Seattle sound. And the fashion, you know, the clothes that we were wearing in London sort of mirrored what was going on in Seattle. Interesting. Yeah. I mean, what do you think that is? I mean, I know that we have similar climates, Seattle and London, but it's interesting.
33:04Yes, right. Yeah, like London became a twin city in grunge, really. Exactly. You know, we love Courtney Love. I mean, when I went to shoot Courtney Love, Jogentera did it. I just thought, oh, my God. You know, there's a real synergy between these two cities in terms of fashion and music. You know, in London, we had, you know, the Stone Roses, Happy Mondays. But really, it wasn't until Kate went to Calvin Klein that I thought, wow, this is global now. I know the Kate Moss, it was just, for me, I think of Kate Moss as the sort of the quintessential icon for a model of what a model looks like because I grew up with her being the main model.
33:44But it's interesting to see this evolution and what a shock it was for someone who looked like her and was shaped like her. I love that your description that she has fangy teeth. She sort of had a little nose. She was just not what people expected. Were you surprised when people started responding to her? I remember when I first met her as a 14-year-old, she walked into this casting and she took over the room. And again, like Naomi, I hadn't seen anyone more beautiful. So for me, even though Kate was small, there was no doubt that she was a star. And also her personality. You know, Kate's got one of those personalities that's so effervescent and incredible.
34:25You know, I knew the supermodels were going to fall in love with her. So before you knew it, she was friends with Naomi and Christy, and they'd become a new trinity, so to say. So for Kate, even though she did change fashion and what it takes to be a model, you know, She opened the way for models who were less than 5 '10", so to say. I wasn't so surprised because I knew who she was. I mean, it's interesting that not much later, you sort of see another shift in this whole romance with Hollywood and fashion that I think has endured to this day. And I think maybe in one of the episodes, it's called The Hollywood Merger.
35:03And I think that sort of really nails it. Could you talk a little bit about the relationship between the fashion industry and Hollywood and that changing dynamic in the mid 90s? Yes, my God. I mean, you know, I remember when us, the supermodels were gaining sort of prominence, Hollywood stars wanted to be sort of very serious. They wanted to be seen as Julia Roberts and a lot of Hollywood actresses sort of dressing down and the supermodels were like, we're going to be glamorous. and then in the mid 90s a new sort of generation of actresses realized that oh my god if we tap into this glamour that these girls are showing us you know it opens up the way to you know sponsorships and I think you have to really give Anna that credit because she said celebrities need to be on magazine covers and that was it before you know it all the fashion houses wanted to dress them before you know it what had essentially been you know Liz Hurley holding up a dress became a whole industry you know whole PR department set up to sort of get the right celebrity and then you know sort of a lot of um alliances were born that you know lasted to this day like Charlize and Dior I mean Charlize came a little bit later but that's really when because of American Vogue, because of, you know, Anna and those incredible covers and the spotlight she put on celebrities, the industry changed.
36:28And we're still sort of, you know, seeing the effects of it. I know it was so fun to see the backstory of, for example, Gwyneth's first cover and how she was one of the first celebrities to be on the cover of Vogue. And it was her just thinking, oh, I have this event. I think she said it was a VH1 Awards. And she was like, oh, that Tom Ford for Gucci velvet suit, I'll wear that. And now, of course, that's this moment that has been copied a thousand times. And it just, it was like, what's Helen of Troy, the face that launched a thousand ships. And it took so many times to shoot her. I think the first person to really sort of show the world how great this partnership was Nicole Kidman.
37:14Remember on the red carpet in that yellow dress? That's when brands woke up and thought, oh, my God, this is a real industry, you know. Calling Gio was, you know, a real turning point. Well, and I thought it was so smart that you said a designer having one viral moment on the red carpet equals 10 shows. Can you explain that for people who don't really know what that means? Back then, you know, when you went to shows, it was the industry. It was, you know, the so-called professionals of the time. You looked at the shows, you reported it. And then you photograph the collections in the pages of magazines for people to see, you know, Donatella's dress, that infamous dress, the amber war that was later popularized by J-Lo.
37:57Oh, the naked dress. Wow. So that one image of a celebrity all of a sudden went all around the world. instead of you waiting to see the clothes in magazines or at events, one celebrity wearing it changed the name of the game.
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38:46I think as a music fan, my favorite episode might be the one where hip-hop and fashion collide. I knew you'd like that. Yeah, I love that episode. I mean, seeing Missy and Mary J. Blige and hearing Dapper Dan because I just always think I could listen to him all day and Lil' Kim and they had this kind of outsized influence on what it meant to be fabulous in Black American culture. How do you think that eventually transferred over? Because it's such an interesting, like it's interesting the way that that suddenly crossed over. Yeah, I mean, you know, I mean, hip-hop was, you know, was growing. Hip-hop was not really accepted by sort of the mainstream fashion industry.
39:29I mean, designers like Carl Kanai, you know, FUBU, Fat Farm, they were really the voice of, you know, the streets. And then you had Missy and Mary come through, you know, like you said, Little Kim, Foxy Brown, with what they called ghetto fabulous at the time. But it was because, you know, designers wouldn't give them clothes. So they had to really, like, mix, you know, a style, you know, high fashion with where they came from. you know whether it was brooklyn or the bronx or and they created this look that was had never been seen before and you you know and before you knew it you could see it in collections by designers and we you know we loved that period when the street would influence high fashion and i think those girls really started that and they were so cool and they were so fly that designers wanted a bit of that magic and also there was a growing sort of black community who really were interested in fashion you talked about Dapper Dan earlier and I think the great designers sort of thought we could really you know Tommy Hilfiger Ralph Lauren they thought we could really sort of learn from this community and I feel like that's how street fashion sort of got even more sort of acknowledged by the whole world I mean I was walking down the street the other day in Berlin of all places and I saw a young girl wearing sort of a hoodie Adidas and these incredible sneakers because I thought to myself, does she know where that started?
40:59I know that this is a 90s doc and I hope we get to the 2000s because like 10 years later, we have the black issue with Vogue Italia. I remember collecting that issue and I'm sure it's still the highest selling Vogue Italia issue of all time. And seeing it on eBay, still collectible now. Why do you think that still, yes, yes. Why do you think that still resonates with people today? I think it really the black issue resonates because you know of course we get to 2000s but there was a period where the black model disappeared I remember I'd go to shows and it'll be a cast of white models and maybe one east asian model not south not even south asian east asian mid to late 2000s and it was the norm and I remember speaking with even myself and his agent, Jimmy Moffat, and saying this, you know, Beth Ann, we have to do something about this because the black model is disappearing.
41:57And the great Franco Sanzani, who worked for another great Vogue, Italian Vogue, was like, you know, guys, let's create this issue. And the brilliant thing about that issue was, you know, it featured sort of only black models, but it also showed that it was good business. But it was needed at the time. It was necessary. You know, it was necessary to say, hey, fashion is more than just one thing. Fashion is more than just one race. And, you know, it was the beginning of what we call sort of diversity and inclusion, that issue. Can you describe that issue for people who don't know? It was... She was photographed by Stephen Mizell.
42:34It featured all the incredible models of the time from Iman to Tyra Banks, Naomi to Jordan Dunn, Cecily Lopez, Leah Cabere. It was like all the models being welcomed home, you know, Takara Jones. And the world hadn't seen anything like this before. What was the response like? Oh, my God, it was incredible. It sold out. Edward, I feel like by the end of the 90s and by the end of this docuseries, it feels like fashion has lived so many lives. You were deep in at ID and the industry was sort of on the verge of another shift at the end of the 90s. Can you describe that period a little bit, like 99, 2000?
43:17You know, by the late 90s, we were bored of grunge. We were bored of reality. We'd been working in America. We'd seen the budgets they had there. So we, you know, and also we wanted to grow. And we, you know, like you can't stay the same forever. And the industry started to change. You know, Tom Ford came in and literally killed grunge, dead. I mean, models like Gisele Bundchen came in. I call it the one-woman supermodel army, you know, 1999, 2000. And, you know, she tells the whole story in the 2000s, but there was a single model who brought back glamour. So I think we were all dying for something glamorous.
43:54And, you know, the 90s had been so, so real and so authentic. And we were ready for something else, you know. I mean, in many ways, the 90s are back and they've never left us or people keep wanting to bring them back and people love the spirit of them. Why do you think that time in particular sort of resonates with people? Like, I do think what you were saying about it being authentic and real and having some kind of soul to it and real vibe to it. Yeah, I mean, it was authentic. I mean, you know, it wasn't a lot of artifice. It wasn't about big hair, big shoulders like the 80s had been. It was about artists, you know, working on their crafts, you know, young artists, you know, Damien Hirst, you know, Jake and D.
44:38It was about culture. The 90s to me was about culture. It was about music, fashion, film, you know, what I call the big flat, all crossing. You know, whenever you went to an event, it was never just a fashion event. You see, you know, your contemporaries there from all other industries. And I think that's why the 90s remained so special. It was the first time all these industries sort of came together. Edward, I want to know, what are you working on right now? Just give us a little taste of what might be next for Edward, because we're all dying to know. That's the question everyone's like. I mean, you know, what I'm really interested in right now is working on projects that sort of propel creativity forward, you know, and sort of brings creativity to as many people as possible.
45:26At the moment, right now, what I'm working on is a project with the Dorsey Gallery in Paris. Yeah, the Orangery, and it's with a company called Lito. and they're using technology to make art accessible to everybody. So they're creating, you know, I did a whole project around Monet and sort of creating prints that are affordable, accessible, that people can put on their walls. I mean, executive producing this documentary with Anna and Hamish, that was incredible, you know, sort of getting in there and calling people, which is really essentially what we do, Chioma will tell you. but using it in this way was so fantastic.
46:05So I hope to do more of that as well. Well, congratulations. I think it was, it was, I binge watched it in one day and I can't wait for it. Did you show me? Yes. Wow. Yeah, back holiday Monday. I just was riveted. I thought it was so exciting. All right. Thanks, Edward. Have a great fashion month. I'll see you in fashion month. See you then. Bye. Bye. Bye.
46:31that's it for the show In Vogue the Nights is out tomorrow September 13th on Hulu and Disney Plus and we are back tomorrow for a special episode so we'll see you then bye bye
46:48the run through is produced by Chelsea Daniel Alex De Palma and Joanna Solitaroff it's engineered by Jake Loomis and Luke Mosley and mixed by Mike Kutchman. Stephanie Karaoke is our executive producer and Chris Bannon is Condé Nast's head of global audio.
47:18Right now in movies and the opera, even in pop music, divinely inspired women are everywhere. This week on Critics at Large, we make our case. Saints are having a moment. Look, I can spout off any number of cliches, but they're all true. The world is moving faster and faster. Materialism is now reaching every single corner of the globe. It's very hard to say no and to say stop and to say I will do without. And I think that explains some of the modern cultural appeal. I'm Vincent Cunningham. Join me and my co-hosts on Critics at Large from The New Yorker. Find us every Thursday, wherever you get your podcasts.
From the publisher
This week we are joined by Edward Enninful, British Vogue’s former editor-in-chief and host of the documentary series In Vogue: The 90s, which premieres this Friday on Disney + and Hulu. Enninful gives a preview of what we can expect from the series and digs into one of the most stylish decades of all-time, including his close friendship with Naomi Campbell, the advent of grunge, and how hip hop artists innovated fashion as we know it today.
We kick the episode off with New York Fashion Week (NYFW), obvs! Chloe joins olympic gold medalist Gabby Thomas for a car ride to the Tommy Hilfiger show, and walks Chioma through the most memorable shows of the week, so if you want to hear all about shows like Off-White, Alaïa, and Willy Chavarria, this episode is for you!
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