Wine’s Culture Problem | Episode 13

18 Jun 2026 · 1 h 28 min · 32 chapters

Ask about this episode

Ask anything about it. ChatGPT or Claude reads this page and answers with the times it was said.

Connect VO and ask about every podcast you hear, including the moments you saved. Add to ChatGPT · Add to Claude

In short

Wine’s “culture problem”—whether wine can remain economically viable, environmentally sustainable, and culturally relevant if the positive cultural narratives that legitimize it erode.

Guests

Pauline Vicar, co-founder and executive director of Arrini Global, a think tank studying major questions in the fine wine market. She was appointed Chevalier du l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole by the French government; she is the daughter of a Burgundy winemaker and comes from a farming family.

Key claims

Wine’s cultural legitimacy is not guaranteed; it depends on “positive collective representations” (les imaginaires collectifs) that can change. Wine drinking culture is different from viticulture culture (protecting the vine doesn’t automatically protect drinking). Current cultural signals (e.g., portrayals of wealthy CEOs and “bon vivants” shifting toward negative stereotypes) may weaken fine wine’s aspirational appeal. Fine wine consumers and collectors are driven by different motivations than mass-market drinkers; collectors chase and overbuy, fueling secondary-market liquidity and valuation.

Notable examples

Pauline references a European Commission discussion on “a Europe without wine,” Vins et Société’s French study defining wine drinker personas (CEO, bon vivant, embarrassing uncle), and Netflix portrayals (Succession, White Lotus, etc.). She also cites Arrini’s “New Fine Wine Consumers” research across Paris, London, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Shanghai.

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

Tap a time to open that second in VO

Recognition and Background of Pauline Vicar

0:36 to 2:27

Discussion of Pauline's recent honor and her background in wine.

“And we're now starting off our season two, episode 13, with, I'll be honest with you, probably the guests I've been most excited about coming on.”

The Challenges in the Wine Industry

2:27 to 5:30

Exploration of the existential crises facing the wine industry and the need for collaboration.

“so actually the impact you're having maybe not in the vineyards but actually the impact you're having at more sort of upper levels of the wine industry could have an even bigger impact well i We certainly hope so.”

The Fragmentation of the Wine Business

5:30 to 11:30

Discussion on the fragmentation within the wine industry and its implications.

“is that an agricultural business until very recently wasn't a business.”

Cultural Relevance and Economic Viability of Wine

11:30 to 14:00

Exploration of how culture impacts the future and sustainability of the wine industry.

“Like I have to make sure that we have, because again, we're talking about wine, and I'm sure we're going to talk about more in the podcast, but there's not a single thing as wine.”

Exploring Wine's Cultural Future

14:02 to 17:46

The discussion focuses on the question of whether wine can have a future without cultural relevance.

“So that's been one of the biggest arguments in the debate around alcohol and health and how wine should be treated differently because it's not just alcohol, it's culture.”

The Politics of Wine and Identity

17:46 to 21:32

Examines how political discourse and societal perceptions impact the legitimacy of wine as a cultural good.

Changing Representations of Wine Drinkers

21:32 to 26:43

Discusses the evolving portrayals of wine drinkers and their impact on the perception of wine culture.

“And what was really alarming for me in that study is one of the things that we've seen as well.”

Transcendental Experiences with Wine

26:43 to 28:00

Highlights the intangible and transformative experiences associated with drinking wine beyond its alcohol content.

The Intangible Experience of Wine

28:00 to 29:20

Explore the profound, transformative experiences that wine can offer beyond just drinking.

“I think it's beyond something that has an ideological nature to it.”

Barriers to Wine Appreciation

29:20 to 30:40

Discuss the challenges individuals face in experiencing fine wine due to economic and cultural barriers.

Show all 32 chapters

Cultural Perspectives on Wine

30:40 to 33:40

Delve into the cultural implications of wine consumption and the elitism surrounding it.

“It's like, I've seen God and now I want to show you God.”

Defining Fine Wine and Its Values

33:40 to 36:20

Examine the criteria for defining fine wine and its implications on society and sustainability.

The Wine Consumer Journey

36:20 to 42:00

Investigate the different types of wine consumers and their motivations behind purchasing wine.

“When what we can see is it's extremely rare now today, if not, that actually people start from the bottom and go all the way to the top.”

The Psychology of Wine Collecting

42:00 to 43:28

Explore the motivations and behaviors behind wine collectors and their relationship with the secondary market.

“plus a lot of my disposable income to, you know, put a cellar together that will never have the time to drink in all my life.”

Gender Dynamics in Wine Collecting

43:28 to 45:18

Discuss the gender ratio in wine collecting and differences in motivations between male and female collectors.

“So it was like justifying to the spouse.”

Similarities in Wine Interests Across Regions

45:18 to 47:24

Delve into the similarities in wine interests and collector behavior in different geographical areas.

“So the journeys that we've seen were very similar regardless of the markets.”

The Role of Education and Community in Wine

47:24 to 49:48

Understand how education and community influence wine collectors and their purchasing habits.

“as it is just the actual taste of the wine, you know.”

Monetizing Wine Community Connections

49:48 to 52:24

Investigate how to create meaningful community connections among wine collectors and the potential for monetization.

“but also through peer education and mentorship, which is why collectors also work in groups.”

Enhancing Wine Experiences Through Events

52:24 to 56:00

Learn about the importance of curated wine events to foster community and improve collector experiences.

Curating Wine Experiences

56:00 to 59:00

Learn about the importance of curating wine tasting experiences and the different preferences of wine drinkers.

The Role of Hospitality in Wine Events

59:00 to 1:02:00

Explore how the hospitality industry principles can improve wine-tasting events.

“But as a consumer, when you have to pay for it and you sat through an experience, which is interesting, but you sat next to someone.”

Shifting Mindsets in Wine Sales

1:02:00 to 1:08:40

Understand how the wine industry needs to adapt to changing consumer behaviors and economic challenges.

“And again, if you do that, there are some cultures where it's more difficult, where people are really here to listen.”

Game: Hype or Hold

1:08:40 to 1:10:01

Engage in a discussion about wine trends and whether they are lasting changes or mere hype.

“So first one, and in brackets here it says rapid fire.”

The Importance of Sustainability in Wine Pricing

1:10:01 to 1:11:38

Discussion on how sustainability credentials may impact fine wine prices.

“Sustainability credentials will move fine wine prices within 10 years.”

China's Evolving Wine Culture

1:11:39 to 1:14:47

Exploration of China's growing wine market and cultural shifts.

“Do you think as well, as they begin to produce their own wine?”

Fine Wine as an Investable Asset

1:14:48 to 1:17:01

Debate on the viability of wine as an investment and its historical context.

“I don't know if it's suitable or not, but that's another conversation.”

The Economic Framework of Wine Valuation

1:17:02 to 1:19:48

Analysis of wine valuation principles and market dynamics.

Maximizing Optionality in Wine Ownership

1:19:49 to 1:24:01

Conversation about the dual benefits of collecting and investing in wine.

“Well, my point was just like when you present wine as an investment class or an asset, you always have two things, right?”

Exploring the Future of Wine

1:24:01 to 1:24:21

Discussion on the evolving nature of wine collecting and investment.

Wine Tasting Experience

1:24:22 to 1:25:12

Reflecting on the wine tasted during the podcast and sharing opinions.

“Because there's too much more to talk about.”

Insights from the Fine Wine Industry

1:25:13 to 1:25:48

Insights from a guest on the fine wine market and its dynamics.

Closing Thoughts and Engagement

1:26:08 to 1:26:46

Closing remarks, calls to action for audience engagement, and future episodes.

Hear the part that matters, and keep it.Open this episode in VO. Double tap your headphones to save a moment as you listen.
Get VO free

Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:03Jonathan Stevenson:Welcome to Uncorked, a Cult Wines podcast where we take you behind the scenes of the fine wine market. I am your host, Tom Gearing, co-founder and CEO of Cult Wines. And as ever, I am joined by Jonathan Stevenson. Thank you, Jay, for being here once again. Hello. How are you? Very well. Yeah, yeah. You're looking nicely tanned on our little summer hiatus we had. Yeah, yeah. We had a nice break, didn't we? Yeah, I managed to get away, which is good. Good to hear. Good to hear. But glad to be back. Yeah, much so. It's going to be a really good pod today. I'm really looking forward to it. Well, as you might realise, we had a little month off and that was to kind of commemorate, I think, a good season one.

0:36Jonathan Stevenson:And we're now starting off our season two, episode 13, with, I'll be honest with you, probably the guests I've been most excited about coming on. And sorry if I've offended any of our previous guests. You've all been great so far. But we're super excited to have Pauline Vicar with us today. Thank you for joining us. Thank you for having me. And for those of you who may not have heard of Pauline before, and I'm sure lots of you have, she's the co-founder and executive director of Arrini Global, the think tank built to answer the biggest questions in the fine wine market. And before we start, we have to say congratulations.

1:06Jonathan Stevenson:And I did say off air, I have been trying to practice pronouncing this. I do. I have to apologise now ahead of time to any French listeners who might be offended by what I'm about to say. But you've just been appointed Chevalier du Lord de Merit Agricole by the French government. yeah very nice pronunciation well done congratulations three days of practice that was only take 10 that was only take 10 um so congratulations that must be such an honor it is it is i mean it's such a an honor well you have trouble pronouncing chevalier de l 'ordre i will struggle with my h i'll just like um so it's a honor um it's very humbling as well two h in the same sentence.

1:46Yeah, because of course, I'm the daughter of a, you know, winemaker in Burgundy. And on my mum's side, my family's been farmers for as long as we can trace our, you know, family tree. So there's a special meaning, you know, for me. It's slightly ironic that all my family has worked in the field or in the vineyard. And I'm the first generation working at my desk and being decorated for agriculture. But, you know, it's, yeah, it's been a lot of emotions in the last days yeah yeah well it's interesting i'm sure we'll get onto

2:18Jonathan Stevenson:it but it's interesting we just say that because actually the work that you're doing today it was one of the questions i have for you is maybe some of the most important work that's happening today in wine because of some of the existential crises that the wine industry is supposedly facing so actually the impact you're having maybe not in the vineyards but actually the impact you're having at more sort of upper levels of the wine industry could have an even bigger impact well i We certainly hope so. We wouldn't put that much energy into it if we didn't think that could potentially have an impact.

2:48I'm not sure it's the most important one because, as you've said, there's a lot of things happening and a lot of efforts required in the wine world. So I think it's a collective effort and we're very proud and pleased and humbled to be able to maybe sparehead some of that work and gather some of the great work that other people are doing as well. because I think in the wine world, there's a lot of very clever people and there's a lot of very passionate people that are active, that are moving, that are shaking things. But most of the time they do that in an isolate fashion because of how the trade is structured, because geographically we are on every continent now.

3:28So having a place when you can gather them and you can take one big topic and break that down into smaller questions that you can address one step at a time. yeah um um that's i think also but that's that's thanks to their great work too yeah do you think it's also a byproduct of just how intensive a job winemaking is so you know not just the fact that everyone's geographically all over the place but the fact that most of the time the big decision makers in each estate have to be at the estate for so much of their time that they don't have enough time to think yeah i think it's it's it's part of this because it's it's not just for producers is also for i mean we're in london so we all we all know the trade and trading wine is a full-time job full-time job um i think it's at least in europe it's a result of how the trade's been historically segmented so you've always had production that was very separate from distribution and that's why you have negos in every single region in france so the moment the wine you know leaves the cellar someone else is doing the work of branding it and selling it and then you have middlemen in every market because you also have the work to import it and then to find the final consumer so all of those steps have historically required very separate sets of skills um and in today's world it's all like crumbling into one like everyone needs to know everything and if you look again one of the position that i know best is a winemaker in france and if you look at that generation in the last 40 years my dad's generation and that that's one of the reason why i'm doing my job today but my dad's generation in 40 years their job changed like in a way that i don't think other jobs in other industries have changed they started being you know farmers and just being able to do crops and then they had to do you know being able to vinify their wines and then they had to be able to sell it in 40 different countries and to speak to the final consumers and do social media and run a company actually.

5:29And that's the thing that sometimes people forget is that an agricultural business until very recently wasn't a business. And so all the business skills that goes around that is something that people have had to acquire in the last generation maybe. And a generation in wine is not that long. So that's part of the reason. And then also it's just the nature of business today that it takes a lot of your time and your head is in. Yeah, the two are quite contrasting, aren't they? It's so hands-on with the winemaking itself. But trading as well, there's so much importance of the short term, and that's fair.

6:11Everyone needs to make money. Everyone needs to make a living. But then more and more the questions that we are asked to address as any member of the value chain are quite global and quite long-term as well. And they do involve parts of the answer that we have no control upon, like regulation, trade agreement, environmental change, you know, climate chaos and all of that big societal shifts. And it feels like we have absolutely no power of those change. But like they put a lot of pressure on the way we've always either produced or sold wine. so it's it's because of that i guess that we decided to do and to create a reunion because like there's no big question that is simple to answer today of course yeah it's going through

7:03Jonathan Stevenson:such a transformation i mean there's so much stuff you just said that was really interesting i'd love to pick up on i think your point around like the fragmentation of wine as an industry i think it's so unique and probably very other there's very few industries in the world that as fragmented as fine wine in terms of how it's you know manufactured and distributed but also you saying industry and again as a french i had to come to terms with that term because again wine business have been businesses at least on the production side quite recently and a part of the wine world still has a problem of calling themselves an industry right because it's farming and again that comes with two different mindsets um and i mean that's another topic i guess but it's an illustration you know how people say new world and old world yeah yeah um are terms that don't make sense anymore because the wine styles are so similar and who can recognize the chardonnay from cool climate australia from burgundy today and the vine ages are probably similar now between the two i kind of i kind of agree on the wine style for sure and that has a lot of consequences on education but that's another topic but when it comes to business mentality i still think that's one of the that's that's one of the only situation when it's still interesting to separate old world and new world because the new world was created by business people most of the time if you look at do you not also think like with the new world they were slightly unencumbered by the old world's sort of distribution so like let's for example you look at obviously jonathan mentioned working in the us obviously when we're off air but you know in the us you look at how wine is distributed it's completely different to how it's done in europe because it's a it's a new industry but the whole mailing list concepts the whole direct to consumer concept they they weren't really un they were they were kind of free in a way to kind of create their own sort of distribution structure but if you go a bit back that's also because they're entrepreneur like a lot of the people that have been very successful in california's wine business yeah and even if they consider themselves farmers yeah and that's where themselves as business people first yeah yeah but even if they consider themselves farmers farmer as a word translate very different reality in the u.s of course than in europe and even in europe you can take france and germany situation of what a peasant is or a farmer is that's one of those words that i kind of always it makes me not cringe but like which word farmer because it's one of those ones that we use in english yeah or like fine wine would be another because we use in english because we're speaking in English and even globally we have to have a common language but those words translate so different realities that sometimes people think they're talking about the same thing when they're not really.

9:44Terroir would be another one. So yeah, I think that's also one of the reasons and to go back to having done a very big kind of deviation to your question I think that's all that complexity that makes everything both so complicated and so fascinating at the moment. I think we are at a very, very interesting point in the wine world. And unfortunately, at every big evolution moment of an industry or ecosystem, there are people that are left behind and there are people that succeed. And I think we are right in the middle of that. Like everything is changing from a lot of perspective.

10:27Jonathan Stevenson:It's interesting because I think as you were talking, one of the ideas that was in my head was one of the unique attractions of wine for me particularly is its variability its differentiation it's non-homogeneity right which is you know that's one of the best things about wine especially when you're going to places like burgundy and other kind of um you know artisan you know regions where you have people that can pop up out of nowhere and start farming and vinifying wine in a way that just creates so much fragmentation which then i imagine for someone like yourself not that you're in control of them, but in terms of a think tank or trying to kind of put policy in place or trying to shape direction or thinking becomes very difficult because everyone's got completely competing interests.

11:08Jonathan Stevenson:And we don't necessarily want the industry to suddenly have these conglomerates, which in a way you can maybe argue is happening a little bit in terms of how some of the land's being bought up in France at the moment, some of the vineyards getting bought up by big conglomerates. But in a way, we want to fight against that. Yeah, I mean, diversity is key. And that's what makes my job... I mean, that's what puts pressure on me as my job. Like I have to make sure that we have, because again, we're talking about wine, and I'm sure we're going to talk about more in the podcast, but there's not a single thing as wine.

11:41It's wine with an S because wine covers so many different realities in terms of production, market distribution, price points, consumer. And, you know, on top of that, over the last maybe 15 years, the top of the pyramid is more and more differentiating itself from the rest of the pyramid. So we're talking about segment of realities that are all under one big word that everyone understands differently depending on who they are, where they were born and the experience with wine and the position in the value chain. So that creates so many different nuance, which I find fascinating. I think nuance is one of the things that the world lacks the most at the moment.

12:25And we've swing to extreme and we're kind of compelled to think in one extreme or another. If you do that in the wine world, you're sure to fail. Like if you want to reflect on what's needed, you're sure to fail. Because again, the reality are so different. And what's interesting is that usually the big issues are the same wherever you are in the world. But of course, because you evolve in different markets that have very different culture, but also legislation in place, solution always have to be local. so you can learn from so that's another you know difficulty added to my job is that we need to bring people around the table that are from different countries different markets we also need people that are not from the wine world because if you want to think about geopolitics and how you know well the wine world doesn't know a lot about geopolitics usually um same thing to understand the big change in societies we need sociologists we need um anthropologist yeah anthropologist thank you um historians and everything so we also need to bring them in the conversation we need to bring people from luxury from gastronomy from food um and so it's trying to make them all work together yeah um and then to have a synthesis of that that tries to you know take everything into account and still can lead to some recommendation yeah i think what you've said

13:48Jonathan Stevenson:may hopefully lead quite nicely onto the first question that we had for you i know we deviated quite a lot from the introduction that was a great introduction that might be our longest introduction yet but it just goes to show how much we've got to talk about but um you know the first thing I wanted to kick off is probably your most recent article uh which answers Robinson maybe sharing some of your thoughts and I suppose the question and I think for those that haven't read the article and maybe you're not up to speed the question you were kind of tackling the fundamental one was does wine even have a future without culture and I think you were starting to kind of touch on some of the aspects of that um so i mean starting there i mean what's the best way that you kind of you can frame that as a topic and as a question to tackle and what did you even mean by that so maybe taking a step back that what arini does is we're looking at what conditions need to exist in order uh for what for wine and fine wine between bracket because i will need to define that but um to be economically viable and violent environmentally sustainable and culturally relevant and culture is one of those aspects that first of all it's kind of long term you don't influence culture in in overnight usually unless you taylor swift um which i'm not unfortunately Sancerre is doing well.

15:07Yeah, I know. That's why I'm thinking about this. Yeah, yeah, Sancerre is selling out. But my point is cultural relevance is one of those things that the sector usually consider as a given and as something that can't be distinguished from wine, that wine is culture by nature and therefore should be treated differently than any other sort of alcohol. So that's been one of the biggest arguments in the debate around alcohol and health and how wine should be treated differently because it's not just alcohol, it's culture. So the article was about, OK, well, first of all, is that true? Is that guarantee?

15:50How are the mechanism that led us to have wine considered as a cultural good because those mechanisms might not be in place anymore? and second well second just as a little bracket i think it's very um how do you say uh what's the word in english um preposterous maybe not that i mean we are not

16:12Jonathan Stevenson:the only alcoholic drink that has cultural meaning right um if you look at rum like go and tell scotland that whiskey is not a cultural good or to the mexican that tequila is not cultural or rum as well. Do you think there belongs like some level of like snobbery within wine that has that assumption that it is the cultural drink? Yeah, snobbery is not really the exact word that I was looking for, but something that we always think of ourselves as unique when we actually, we're unique for us. I mean, and there's uniqueness in wine. I'm not denying this. But the counter for me would be around like the alcoholic nature of those drinks, like in terms of, yes, rum and whiskey.

16:53Jonathan Stevenson:But, you know, you're not having that You're not having that as an everyday drink with the family around the dinner table in the same way that wine brings family together in the way that it can be. I know obviously the health side of things, but it can be consumed on a much more regular basis. I guess, again, that can be debated. Like, ask the Scots about whiskey and how that brings them together as a culture. It doesn't bring them together, but, you know, drinking a 40 plus alcohol cent drink is a slightly different. But then it's just a matter of measure. It's not a matter of nature of alcohol.

17:20It's just that you drink less whiskey. you drink four centiliters of whiskey to have the same as your 12 centiliters glass of wine but it's just a measurement of alcohol not the nature of alcohol itself then if you want to go there there's probably a different historically between alcohol that are fermented versus alcohol that are distilled and that's maybe another conversation but my point about culture going

17:41Jonathan Stevenson:back to your first question and the reason of this article yeah um and that will you know probably show you one of the how complex the conversation is at the moment that article came because of two things in december so irini is not a lobby first of all we don't lobby and we don't defend wine like we really take that big structural perspective um but i was invited to talk at the european commission in brussel on that question of a europe without wine question mark and i had to answer that question one of the things that striked me the most well first was like oh politicians are asking that question that's weird like first of all it means that you know the legitimacy of wine somehow is challenged it's been put into question already because it's been put into question and the cap reform so the common agricultural policy is there any particular events or the health movement probably yeah like or like maybe the vineyards being ripped up and stuff like that seeing across europe maybe i don't know it's kind of two i'm not sure it's the same people at brussel that are dealing with this with that conversation but i guess it's more it's more the health conversation um and and people having to oh well if if we do agree that you know alcohol is dangerous from the first drop what about you know subsidizing wine then you know there's probably some questions like this but then environmentally obviously with like the use of water we were talking to quite a lot of the the winemakers in bordeaux about that and how that's having to again yeah that's one of the things why we have again to justify our space it all goes to the same direction is that we were in a position where everything was given like being accepted in society was a given and i'm not saying that it's not anymore but we are at a point where we're questioned about our legitimacy And that legitimacy comes through culture.

19:39What happened in Brussels that was really interesting as well and was the political side of the parliament members that were represented on that day was very much to the right, which I don't have problem with, but also to the far right in terms of who was represented. and so that was just one of those weak signals that oh that's interesting to see them here but you can make the argument that wine is all about local identity and roots and you know being from a place which you can also take in a very exclusive way because if you're not that from that place you're a stranger you're like you're fine no you're not like me and in the political discourse today that's really you know what we are proposed in terms of political speech and then Vain Société which is which is actually the the body that defends French wine in in Europe and they've done a study that they presented in February and they've asked the French people what's a wine drinker for you because also when it comes to culture just as a side note it's easy to protect viticulture and the culture of vine and it's been really well made you know you've talked about burgundy unesco patrimoine and everything yeah the culture of vine because the plant is complex comes with skills that are transmitted that shapes the landscape that shapes the culture in all the latin meeting like culture of the crops and culture of the people so the vine culture is easy to protect wine drinking culture is something which is actually quite different and so if you just use wine as the result of viticulture and then put it at the museum but you don't protect the fact that it's drunk after that you can protect wine without protecting wine drinking that's actually what I'm saying and that's two different sides of the question and again what Vain et Société asked French people was what's a wine drinker for you and they came up with three answers three personas first they're all male because we're still in France and that's still the case that it's represented like this the first one is the ceo so ceo i don't know 45 year old men wearing a nice suit and you know successful so drinks the best eats the best you know as a sign of success um second is the bon vivant so i like life therefore i like wine i like wine therefore i like life right and the last one is the embarrassing uncle we might all have one that over that overindulged family dinner say embarrassing things, acts in a out of time way, I'd say out of your time way, but they exist.

22:26And what was really alarming for me in that study is one of the things that we've seen as well. The CEO is losing aspirational power because, I mean, it's the elite at the moment don't have a good press. And if you look at how since COVID, the way wine drinkers have been portrayed on netflix for example if you take olivia pope from scandal the lannisters and game of thrones succession um the white lotus they're all uber rich people that are highly despicable you can try your best there's no one in succession that i actually like like there's always something wrong with one of them right i feel like yeah yeah you know so this is not a really good one is it like anyway um we we've done some um evenings where we would drink the wines in the episodes um so we'll do like a full succession season like drinking the wine that was really fun um drops of gold as well so drops of cards i haven't seen i must say i've read the books but i haven't well the mangas but i haven't i haven't seen the thing but when you look at like being a ceo being an uber rich is depicted in popular culture at the moment as being out of touch and someone that you don't want to associate yourself with.

23:43So first portrait, not that aspirational anymore. And that's very concerning for fine wine in particular and the wines that you are dealing with. Second portrait, the Bon Vivant, that used to be positive and a symbol of, you know, French culture and things, is also slightly shifting towards the embarrassing uncle. Because again, what does the Bon Vivant do? He drinks quite a lot, sometimes a bit too much after a Broadway game or, you know, those kind of things. he eats a lot of meat and he also takes a lot of pride in his local identity and all of that used to be either neutral or positive and now is shifting and that's something wine has very little control about but it's shifting more and more towards for you know wrong or right reasons towards something that leads to the you know extreme political discourse and so those two things were like wow there's really something happening in culture um and the last big source that I will quote is Véronique Lemoine, who's the technical director at La Cité du Vin in Bordeaux.

24:43And she did that amazing presentation that really lights such a big, light bulb moment in my head when she explains that in order to survive wine, I mean, wine has been saved between brackets because it's a cultural good. And it's a cultural good because it is supported by positive collective representation. what we say in French les imaginaires collectifs so collective imaginary in English but I don't think it translates that well and she was explaining that for 8 ,000 years people have drunk wine because of health because of the link to God because of many many things that are now no longer valid because they are imaginaries they are representations so they are by nature something that can change because they come from our imagination and nobody drinks i mean i'm not going to say nobody but who drinks wine because it's this the blood of jesus christ today like there are some things that are not that modern and same thing for health you know when people say oh but people used to drink wine because it was safer than water well maybe you know a couple of hundred years ago but certainly not today so those

25:56Jonathan Stevenson:representations it's always been aspirational right it has always been aspirational if you look at how different reasons yeah and so the questions that i'm asking in the paper and i don't have the answer to we're starting a white paper so we can explore a bit more is what happens if the last positive representation that we have about wine which is it brings joy it brings us together it's conversation starter it's a good positive social lubricant when consumed in moderation what happens if this crumbles too because just like the rest of those positive imaginaries that are no longer contemporary those can change and we see some signals and i don't want to be too you know um i don't want to scare people too much but we see a lot of signals that lead to a possibility that this is changing more rapidly that we think and then the conclusion is that if we do believe that wine is a cultural good and should stay a cultural good then we need to understand the mechanism of how culture is created and where culture is created today and we need to interact more with those worlds we need to be contemporary relevant and we need to be able to articulate this because we haven't had to articulate it before it has been articulated for us by politicians again i think we forget how the politics have been really really important in shaping the cultural value of wine there are loads of signs where we might lose those supports so we have to be able to to articulate that for ourselves in a clearer way and not just from the point of view of the people that benefit from it financially because they produce or sell it which is usually the people that you hear when it comes to culture which is winemakers or yeah you know it's interesting when you were talking one of the things that popped up in my mind was it it felt like the the kind of the framing of it feels quite sort of in in some in some instances it was quite binary in terms of like you know our people are driven to drink wine for certain different reasons obviously historically you had you know the examples you gave or now it's really a question of like is it healthy or not healthy should i be doing this shouldn't i be doing this but and of course i'm gonna be biased in this but i think there is an element that's almost kind of intangible the intangible element for wine for me is there are wines that you can consume that give you a transcendental experience and i think it's something that's beyond an alcoholic beverage i I think it's beyond something that is a social lubricant.

28:19Jonathan Stevenson:I think it's beyond something that has an ideological nature to it. I think it is something that all human beings, if they have the opportunity to, should take and grasp with both hands because we're here for a very short period of time and there are very few opportunities that you have to experience some of the greatest things in life, whether it's food, whether it's experience, whether it's traveling, whether it's interactions with human beings. But one of the things for me, and of course I'm going to be biased in this, is there have been moments in my life when you have a wine and it's irrelevant that it's alcohol.

28:47Jonathan Stevenson:it's irrelevant that it's a beverage it's irrelevant and it is such a fundamentally transformational experience and i believe in it so passionately that i i it's it i get excited when someone tells me they don't like wine because i'm like i can't wait to prove you wrong because i know for a fact i'm going to prove you i know i'm going to make you have an experience that's going to be so transformational that you're going to go i did this is not even the i don't even think this is wine and in a way i think sometimes that is the issue which is that the kind of gateway to wine that we have today that's on the supermarket shelves that's this drive to 5.99 bottles in the uk that is this mass you know produced wine you know i know you said there is fine wine wine where it's wines s but this is a problem right because the the gateway the the journey you have to take someone on to get to that moment is is being is being prevented because the entry level is is is not exciting enough and then it really does down come down to a question of health and well if i'm not having that good of experience i really need this bottle of wine for six quid on a friday night and is that ever going to get you to the point that you have this transformational experience probably not and for me though i think that pathway is a problem i think that pathway is a problem which is how do we get people to that moment and that's becoming more difficult whether it's an economic issue because these ones that these wines that give you that experience are so expensive but also just a challenging experience because of the things you talked about and i completely agree the societal aspects and the health aspect really that that's the blockage if you think about as a funnel we need to get as many people in the top of the funnel as possible and these things are coming in to block it which are not enough quality at a low level not enough accessibility the cultural and social relevance and also and and also as you mentioned the health and other aspects that are now blocking people even starting to come into the funnel but every opportunity we have to have people have that moment for me is is kind of like in a way i kind of see it as our job in the wine industry which is to try and get people to that moment so there's so many things i want to react to um the first thing is um there's you illustrate beautifully how evangelical we can be in the wine world and like it's almost because we've all had that transformational moment or like most of us have with different wines actually or you know being in different situation of just you know people like we really want to not to force that on people but sometimes i'm a little bit and comfortable with that conversation of we have to make people experience that.

31:12It's like, I've seen God and now I want to show you God. It's really very close to those languages. And I'm always wondering if that also doesn't create as much negative as it creates positive, because some people might never want to find God and are very happy about that six pounds bottle of wine. And again, when we talk about culture, we have to talk about the culture of home and the culture about the elite versus the culture of popular people and who wants to, you know, push their culture on other people. So there's a huge conversation about this. Then the illustration about the four pounds bottle of wine at Tesco, those wines also have the claim to be called cultural.

31:48And the way you defend culture, there's a good argument for it, again, and that would be Bourdieu classification of culture and the fact that the rich people usually want to tell the poor people what to drink and what to do when they have the right to have their own culture. and it's not. But there's also that question of, are those wines environmentally sustainable and doing good in society? And if they are not, then there's really a question of like, should they be protected by the cultural good? So that's two different aspects and that's why it's a very difficult question to answer. Then you've also said, our job is to put people, to bring people to, I mean, I'll come back to what you said about that experience changed my life.

32:30There's something that I think that we are not really articulating and it could be interesting to articulate outside of individual experience is fine wine producers. It's difficult for me to define fine wine in a minute because I will have to bring so many nuance depending on the cultural countries and things. You start to understand how I think, so that will take me forever. But fine wine producers all have something in common is they thrive for excellence or greatness. They all want to do the best that they can. Then the nuance is what best means for them from, you know, choose of rootstock to closure, right?

33:05There will be a million decisions that can lead to different results, but they're driven by the same vision. That quest for excellence is something that is deeply human and that transcend time and context because we are not just creatures of survival. We're also creatures that, you know, thrive for beauty and purpose. So there's something here. And again, that would be one of the, that's why I was saying in the paper that the way we define greatness in wine really matters because if we just define it through price and scarcity and rarity and status although this is important that's not the end of the story and there's loads of other framework that we could apply to greatness such as what endeavor or well the the framework that makes the most sense for me and again being very french i'll use french word but we say le beau le bien le bon so it's the beautiful the right and the good and the good in good in making good for others but being good as taste and being good as a person to some extent so having that kind of aesthetic vision that drives fine wine and and then the complex the complexities to translate that framework into what it means practically but if you're guided by something that's good something that is beautiful and something that is right or right rightful that could be a totally different framework than price scarcity and you know and then the last thing that i want to challenge or actually to to you know bring to the table is you've mentioned we've all have to bring people to the top because the i think one of the interesting shift that we could do in wine is stop seeing wine as the pyramid um that you know bad bad wine therefore bad people drink and then the more you go the more closer you to god and like the more you elevate yourself to a condition that's further away from the mere mortals like what if we were and i'm not saying that sorry that wasn't personal um like what if we were seeing the world of wine as a tree right and like there would be loads of different branches and they offer very different views because from depending where you sit on that tree you don't see exactly the same landscape in front of you but those landscapes can be very interesting and so what if we stop saying that fine wine is the ultimate experience and if you haven't tried it you've you know you've missed god um because the reality is people might when they find god they might find it with very very different wines i don't necessarily think

35:42Jonathan Stevenson:I wasn't necessarily thinking about it and it has to be a distinctively rare, scarce, highest level, tier level. It was more, I do find at the very lowest level, which has the most touch points with the general population, there are wines that are being manufactured that I think, you know, are not doing wine justice. Just at a quality level, just at a, you know, does this represent what Chardonnay is? But you will find it at a lot of price point. No, of course. You can have that argument for wines that are£100. Yeah. so it depends on where you're buying it right as well like you can get much better wines in france for like four or five years well no but that's one of my biggest that's my pet peeve of the uk is the duty and tax system which is that you know that if you spend 12 pounds on a wine versus six you're getting double the amount of wine in terms of value versus the packaging the tax the duties at two pounds 63 whether it is i can think of wines that are more than a hundred pounds that i'm not going to quote but for me are industrially made yeah so i mean that's why again again like Like having that pyramid where there's only one top and, you know, presenting it as the ultimate exclusive experience when actually you can have a tree and thinking of the consumer journey as a linear step from bottom to top.

36:56When what we can see is it's extremely rare now today, if not, that actually people start from the bottom and go all the way to the top. The people that drink the top, they have started at the lowest in the middle. but people that buy wines that are 200 pounds today if they are not over 60 will have very rarely start at four pounds unless maybe for like student parties and stuff but you know yeah yeah context yeah different wines different occasions so actually thinking it as a linear journey from four pounds to 200 wouldn't be also translation of the reality i don't know for your

37:32Jonathan Stevenson:no i think you're right i think what do you think the general consumer wants though what do you think i don't think there's something as a general consumer right I think there are as many different consumers as there are wine segments. And some overlap and some don't. I don't think that, and that absolutely no disrespect, I want that to be clear again. I don't think that the people that buy a four pound wine at Tesco being, I don't know, 38 today will potentially be one of your consumers. I think they evolve in slightly parallel worlds. Because they view it in a different place in their way of how they do things.

38:07Yeah, it fits different purpose in their life. yeah yeah they're not looking for god that touches on your um sorry just meant because

38:12Jonathan Stevenson:he's mentioned the kind of 38 and they'll never evolve i just because it just remind me of the report obviously which you know um fantastic report really interesting stuff in there but one of the points was around this whole aspect i mean you were talking about this earlier before the pod because we were kind of like don't it was basically around if you by the age of 40 if you haven't been introduced or you haven't arrived at the wine journey then you won't ever become no so it was slightly different so again um to bring a bit of context we've we've published a study in february that's called the new fine wine consumers how under 40 find their ways into fine wine and so it was all driven by you know people asking us oh you know pullin you've seen like everyone is saying that people are drinking you know there's less alcohol drunk but also that people are drinking less but better so what does it mean for fine wine are people actually drinking less or more fine wine than before and although that question can be interesting first it's very difficult to answer because we don't have one single definition for fine wine but also what do you do with that answer so we decided to tweak slightly the question and go for the people that are under 40 today like why how where did they start to be interested in wine in the first place and in the most expensive part of wine, the above 30 pounds kind of one, and what are the levers that actually led them to be engaged with the category?

39:40And one of the first things that we found out, and I think you guys see that empirically every day with your consumer base, is you have two different sub-segment of people who buy the most expensive wine. is you have the buyers that actually buy expensive wine for different reasons. Most of because they have more money. That's always one of the, you know, they have the financial resources for. But like they buy wine. It would be like you buy wine for a need. You know, you have a dinner in two weeks. You have a birthday coming up or you have a couple dinner. So you will buy wine, maybe not for an exact occasion.

40:16You might have like 60 bottles as a security. but it's very different from the collector and the collector have a totally different mindset and what we discovered through the research is because their brain is wired differently and so your reward system at one point in your life someone or something is almost like you push a button in your brain and suddenly your dopamine reward system is going to work differently and you're going to have the rush of dopamine not when you buy something but through the quest and through the chase so it's exactly looking for it that gets you excited which is why to your point the beauty is diversity because if everything was simple yeah you wouldn't be excited by something it has to be difficult and again that's quite counterintuitive when you ask me about the general consumer yeah i mean the collectors want wanted to be difficult to acquire because if it was easy They wouldn't get excitement out of it.

Read the full transcript

41:15And difficult doesn't mean opaque. That's an interesting nuance. So what we were seeing is empirically, if that button hasn't been switched by the time you're 40, it's unlikely that you are going to become a collector and have that particular mindset when it comes to buying wine. And what's interesting as well, because you're probably going to ask me about the secondary market at some point, collectors always overbuy. Because what gets them excited is the chase. So dopamine rush, I'm looking for something really, really rare. I'm spending a lot of my resources in acquiring it. That's my time. That's my money.

41:55This is totally irrational to spend 15 hours a week in, you know, my passion of wine, plus a lot of my disposable income to, you know, put a cellar together that will never have the time to drink in all my life. So that's irrational. and you look for a chase, you chase, you chase, you acquire, the dopamine goes down so you always want to go for the next one. So what it actually shows you is collector always overbuy. So the secondary market is something that the collectors need because at one point you will have bought too much and you will need some fluidity in it and maybe your taste has changed and that's one of the things about wine valuation in the secondary market as well.

42:42It's not just for the pleasure of making money and it's also to give collectors some rationalisation about their behaviour because if they can see that their wine they bought is now 20 % up in price, even if they will never sell it, that's good for them. That's a good feeling, yeah. Because I've spent so much time, I wasn't crazy. And you can justify to your wife the time and the money that you spend.

43:09Jonathan Stevenson:You're assuming that there's no female wine collectors then? I'm saying that they are less. And that was half a joke because when we've asked people, when's a wine too expensive for you? They've answered always almost the same answer. Because as long as I can justify it to my wife, it's okay. So it was like justifying to the spouse. But if I can argue that this is worth me buying, then it's not too expensive. and then of course the price point changed depending on but they are in in the western market that we've studied so we've done that study in paris london new york singapore hong kong and shanghai in the western market and i would very be curious to know your gender ratio yeah but it's still a good 85 percent male 15 female was this was this the paper that you presented in the bin expo yeah yeah yeah um how did you find that slight segue but how what was it seemed from what i read that it was a lot more well attended this year than than the year before venexpo yeah hong kong it was my first time so was it oh there you go yeah but i can compare i mean it was very there was two vibes i had been in provine shanghai it was interesting yeah um and um yeah and and on the eastern market on the eastern market to hong kong singapore and shanghai the gender ratio is slightly more balanced something around 30 women and 70 men yeah definitely more yeah we've noticed that haven't we yeah and do you feel like with all of your sort of study and um as as the you know your business grows and you're continuing to try and find new things to overturn or you know new new paths to go down is have you seen or done any research already where it's very much geographically different right i mean there's obviously just the reason i just thought of being that that was um that's an interesting point because that was one of the hypotheses that we had when we started the research we were like surely we had six hypotheses only one was confirmed the rest of them were either denied or very very nuanced and one was surely there will be a difference between the west and the east like western market eastern market very different history very different maturity surely it's going to be different well the first takeaway if it wasn't it wasn't like the the conditions in which people started to be interested in wine was very similar and then the levers were the same sometimes the order of those levers were different like the rule of education was very much the first thing in asia like education was education was one of those first levers that they would push to stay engaged in the category when you know in london and it empowers people if they went through formal education, they did it later and sometimes they didn't even do it because it's easier to learn and to be connected about it.

46:01So the journeys that we've seen were very similar regardless of the markets. What was really interesting, though, is the biggest difference to stay on the gender was between male and female. So male and female have very different journeys in fine wine than the geography going back to slightly to between both of your points oh yeah um both of your points so what tom said i think is definitely right at one at one end of thinking but then i think what we've noticed obviously the more we've over the years dealt with collectors and they've been on their kind of collecting journey with us um is that it strikes me that in you know when you reach that let's call them the kind of the pinnacle of collectors that have significant sellers and they you know they have a very sort of broad collection of wines um almost the as much as the eureka moments of the taste and the flavor of a great wine whatever the price is also that kind of yearning to have something that someone else doesn't have or like that being able to have researched it so well that you've found a producer that happens to make on this particular plot of land and and you know you kind of want to keep those secrets to yourself somewhat and and actually that leans into what you were saying about that mentality of the collector where all of that justification comes out if they get a wine on the table that people don't know about and it's great.

47:23And that feeling is as much of a great feeling as it is just the actual taste of the wine, you know. But what you've said, which is really interesting, is that you mentioned to the others, and actually one of the hypotheses that we had was, you know, the levers that we'd led people. People will, you know, get into fine wine because they have access to money and they have access to wine education. We thought that was going to be the two levers. Of course, financial is one, like as long as fine wine remains expensive, which it will be in the future. So you need some, when it comes to access, first financial access, which is, by the way, one of the reasons why there are less female collectors because collectors is not, it's not something that comes with gender.

48:10though it's something that comes with money independence, being financially independent. So there's good hopes that as women are more and more financially independent, we will see more and more collectors. It's not the only thing, but it's one of the things that explain why there's less female, at least in Europe. Sorry, but the second part, so access is access to financial wealth, but also access to wines. And that's really important. We can talk about allocation, but having knowing for the young generation knowing the rules of how do I get the wine that I want who do I need to talk to like like because it's all seemed very clear and even you know when I started in London I had you know it took me two years to understand how the place de Londres works because it's not that really transparent and even when you start with the merchants today I'm sure that was one of the reasons you created your company like to get allocation of the wines that you really want through a traditional london-based wine merchant is a lot based on relationship and not on the manifesto on the door that actually tells you the role of the game right so that that access to the wine is really important too education is important because at some point what will interest people and will get them stay is actually what you said from the very beginning that wine is complex and you can learn forever.

49:32So they get into that because at one point their curiosity was peaked and they understood that there's something that they didn't understand and they want to understand. So education is a big one, either through like WSET or sort of certification like this, but also through peer education and mentorship, which is why collectors also work in groups. But the one that we didn't see coming as big as it, Like the third lever is community. Like people at one point, what we've noticed stopped people in the journey. We thought they were going to trade up automatically as they grow up and have more money.

50:11They only do so if their community trade up with them. If they find a new community that drinks at the same level of price and with the same level of interest. Because if you don't have people to open bottle with, what's the point of chasing? Yeah. because that's exactly this it's not just for the beauty of sharing which is part of it and every consumers i mean in the trade we all have this i'm sure but it was funny to see that it was also very true for consumers they all have two sets of friends i don't know if it's true for you gentlemen but you have your normal friends and you have your wine friends which sole purpose it is to open the bottle that you've been chasing for quite a long time because your normal friends will understand that yeah very true yeah they won't have neither the interest nor the education no actually seeing the point of spending quite a lot of time on that bottle they just want to drink yeah um something nice and they appreciate that it's nicer than what they normally drink but so consumers are exactly like this and so one of the things that we can do and that is going to sound extremely cynical but one of the things that i think we need to do better is find a way to monetize friendship so not just that again if if i put it in a more poetic way monetize

51:27Jonathan Stevenson:friendship like how can you sound very transactional i know that's why i'm saying it's cynical but how can you as as someone who sells wine spend some of your time by building those community of friends that you like some sort of an all-in-one you buy wine from me it's a bit like a real estate agent it's like well you're new to that country i'm going to show you where to buy your house depending on what i understand from you but not only i'm going to sell you the house i'm going to introduce you to the local school i'm going to introduce you to what are you interested in sport here like the football circus and you know coach i can you know introduce him if you want your kids to play there like doing that kind of introduction throughout the community so not but of course what i'm saying about monetizing is that because that takes time and wine tastes better when it tastes of margin so we have to find a way of making it work financially but we've built a system in fine wine where it's all about selling bottles uniquely and bottles after bottles that sometimes change hands and every time you make money out of it but we have to find a way of building the communities that will actually again destroy those bottles if you want to you know destroy the stock and drink the wines and we don't really do that like the business models that we have at the moment are more on the bottle exchange than in selling moments and people i like it i think it makes sense yeah that whole set of strength in numbers i mean you know we often talk around how we can bring our community better closer together because like you said especially when you have people that are so wine fanatic that they have such a big collection and they have all of the why would they buy great names that they actually the best way for them to actually rediscover that excitement is because they have the issues we've discussed where you know they now instead of having a wine drinking friend group they they probably go cycling because everyone's more conscious of their health um i've got a particular client who says that that's the case and then all of a sudden it's like staring at this collection thinking well who can i drink these with so actually yeah those connections at that level of collector is really important and when and where can i drink those wines with as well because i had i had a winemaker that asked me well then put in what can we do for like we've built all those collectors have like humongous level of stocks and they're never going to build it to drink it and that's a problem and like well that's also a consequence of a system that never encouraged moments where collectors that have spent so much time and money buying those wines can actually open them everything that we set that we do as the trade you know we do wine tasting we sell tickets for people to buy more wine we don't sell tickets for people to open them and that's interesting because i'm on a whatsapp group with quite a few people and like what we do sometimes will be you know someone will go okay um you know it's quite an extreme example but like i really like crude clade and manil okay and uh you know i've got a 2004 i'd love to open but it'd be really great if there's five or six other people that have also got a different vintage of crude clade mill and let's all just say we want to do it and then we can find a time and a place depending on where people live in the world and whatever and so what happens is you know you kind of propose it and someone goes oh actually i've got one of those i'll bring on this and then you get five and five or six people and then you go right the winemaker with you yeah exactly because the winemaker of krug will have found i don't know a way of building a club of amateur of claude and once a year when there's the new release of the vintage they will organize something which is included in your member experience or whatever where you can bring your own bottle because what you will want is also share that with you know the winemaker and i mean there's loads of different things that that we can do but like to actually encourage people you know everyone there's there's release of new vintage every year we don't do many release party right like that estate released their wines well do a release party where people can come with it all vintage and you know you invite them instead of spending your marketing budget in yet another you know wine making dinner you buy the food for everyone but everyone brings their wine in the sort of yeah but just for that because then everyone that you bring will share the common point of liking your wine that's a big yeah i was thinking that when i was in bordeaux for the emprimeur uh tastings this last um you know a few weeks ago and i was thinking maybe that could be like an angle that might bring bordeaux and premier back to life a little bit for the consumers is like actually having an adjacent week where there were ticketing to the public to taste on premier right and to actually get that whole feeling of the story of the wine and the vintage and you know we can do our best to bring that to people in in our reporting and and having been there but actually for people to go in firsthand and get that yeah and one one person's you know love for margot will be another person's love for pavi for different reasons of the architecture what you know yeah that whole thing of your i think a lot of what came out from what i was reading prior was that whole aspect of like the experience is so much more than i think a lot of people realize but to give people good experience there's something that we need to do better is the curation of the group and spend a bit more time in curating those group of people because people want to drink and again with people that drink at the same level of price than them this is quite easy to find in your data set but also they want to drink with people that are here for the same reasons and that's no judgment of me but in some countries or in some groups people are label drinkers and they just want to like bring the wine that's the most expensive and that's fine this wouldn't be on a personal level the type of people that i would be interested in tasting with on a regular level because first i can't afford the most expensive wine but also that's usually not what i'm looking for in a wine some other people are really into extremely geeky things right and all they talk about is the degrees of fermentation you know or like some really geeky stuff others are more about just you know what gets you there's different group i'm sure you've been in many 100 yeah so and it's a different type of experience there's a different time and place you want to have that i mean there's a well-known collector in london who always puts on some crazy tastings where you do like a vertical of when we did a vertical claude d 'atar going back to 1945 and frederick ongera was there and we did petrus going back to like 1897 or something stupid but you know obviously they're expensive hellenistic events and you know you're tasting it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience but you don't want to do that all the time you know you do that once a year maybe maybe on a special occasion just to have that unique experience to taste the wine in that way but as you said earlier you also just want to open sometimes just want to open a bottle of wine with one other person we just enjoy that one bottle of wine i think i remember going to the petris one saying like it is a ridiculous thing that i'm sitting here analyzing whether the 89 or the 90 was better than the 82 right where in any normal circumstance you will just enjoy if me and you were sitting there having 89 we've both gone oh my god that's an incredible bottle of wine and we just enjoyed it and we just had relaxed and we We drank through the bottle over a couple of hours and just thought that was brilliant.

58:40Jonathan Stevenson:But all of a sudden, I was in a scenario where I was going, oh, do you know what? The 89 for me was a really bad wine in that flight. And you're just like, what is the world coming to when you're doing this? And you kind of sense check yourself afterwards where you're like, it was an amazing experience. I'm glad I did it. But do you know what? You can't just do that all the time because that just becomes ridiculous. And imagine if you had to pay for it. I mean, I don't know if you paid, but as a member of the trade, often we have those kind of things where we don't have to pay for it. But as a consumer, when you have to pay for it and you sat through an experience, which is interesting, but you sat next to someone.

59:12I've never been as I've been sitting next to very old gentlemen that talk to me about the good old days where the Romain et Compte was 80 francs. I'm like, good for you. And also talking at me, but not talking with me. There's loads of different, you know, behaviors like this. So I guess going back to my point in one of the really actionable thing that I think the wine world can do better is to think as as a top hospitality venue. When you look at how the clubs or the restaurants that are very successful with the Golden people, what they do is usually the people that are in charge of the floor sit down three hours before service and they visually organize the room.

59:54Yeah. They visually organize the room. Who's going to sit where? Who needs to be at the center? The ratio between...

1:00:00Jonathan Stevenson:Based on the guest list coming in? Because they know the people or just... Yeah, because they know the people and they can organize the stage of it. And because they had some control, because those are very demanded place, where people can sit. And so just imagine if... Sounds like my wife when she was doing a seating plan for the wedding. But that's exactly this. For months. It's just like, we've forgotten the hosting part. Yeah. So when we host events in the wine world, we see it as a way to sell tickets, which is a good thing. We need to do this. But like what's the first responsibility of a host is to make sure the guests have a nice moment.

1:00:35Jonathan Stevenson:Curating the experience. And you can't do this if you don't curate the room and the table plan. And you can only do this if you just first update your Rolodex sometimes and just stop inviting always the same people. Because how are wine events often built in the wine world? It's either you sell tickets and come whomever pays and then, you know, whatever, they sit. Or it also goes when it's a bit more exclusive or rare. It can go through your private advisor kind of thing that will invite you based on relationships. Sometimes you miss some people because you also have some biased relationship with people.

1:01:13Right. So how can we do to actually make sure that the room that we, we spend enough time on the room so that we make sure that the guests have a good time, not just because of the wine and the food, which we're always good on in the wine world, but also just imagine going at a wedding and not being able to talk for two hours. Because all you would do at the wedding is listening to the bride and the groom talk about themselves for two hours. sometimes they're being funny sometimes they're being very boring depending on how good a speaker they are like you come to wedding first because you want to share something with them and sharing

1:01:53Jonathan Stevenson:is also a two-way street so is that that traditional structure of a wine event is that something like sometimes i feel like we want to convert people so much because we want them to sometimes that's not necessarily but also i feel like we've everyone's got into such a kind of rigid way of thinking that you just do it because you think that's what people want if you know what i mean it's not necessarily because it's what we want to say and again i was just joking about you know being even logistic even evangelistical about things and preaching to people but i think the side the side effect of being so passionate about the wine world or being so dedicated and loving what we do is that we really want to tell people because if only they knew they would be saved when actually we push a lot because we pride we're very proud of the wine on the table it's been complex it's been difficult we want people to understand how do you create that environment where everyone feels comfortable you just let them talk like again but a lot of people find that intimidating as well right you know people want to enjoy the wine in their own way It depends how you create the room.

1:02:59And again, if you do that, there are some cultures where it's more difficult, where people are really here to listen. It's not the case in the UK. It's not the case in France. People don't want to be lectured. So, I mean, there are some cultures where they really do want to learn and would listen to you and not going to speak because that's not how they've been learning how to go through life. But in the UK, that's not how people think. So I'm not saying don't talk about the wine. Just like I'm not saying at your wedding, don't speak at all. But you speak for like 15 minutes each. You're at my wedding.

1:03:34Do you know how long I was going to say it? And then you let people talk to each other. And if you've done a good table plan, again, back to the table plan, they will have things to say. And have you been to those events? I think there are hosts that are fantastic. I've been to those events where there were like 100 guests and the host knew every single person and could greet them with their names and could introduce you to another person saying, oh, hi Pauline, well, Pauline, this is John. John does cult wine. I'm sure you will have loads of things to talk about because you both like Chardonnay.

1:04:06And then he walks away. And then you left with Jonathan. And I've got a conversation starter. And in a culture where people are not super shy, which is again in the UK, you can have that. So know something about your guests so that you can introduce them with other guests. and so you've you've done that matchmaking i know what you mean i mean we obviously have hosted many different types of events and versions of tastings and it what is incredibly difficult to get right at times is just when you can clearly see in a room of let's say 20 to 30 people there are some people in the room always the case that are really there and and want to get so much of the detail and yeah and a bit like how you describe the different types of collectors earlier but like then there are people that really just want to have like they're interested they're there and they pay the respect of you know listening to the the presenter or producer and then there's the people that just aren't interested at all and actually to try and kind of create an event that speaks to all of them in the right way is very difficult what if you were to have tables that were curated by those style of because i understand also economic constraints right you if you have to do one event with 50 people you it's more expensive to do 10 with five yeah but what if you were to create tables so you would have a full introduction everyone will have the same introduction and then in your seating plan you put the technical director with the geek table and then you know in in the more we want to have fun with our friends and we just want to enjoy the 1989 and then finish the evening singing whatever song you know you put them you put them with someone else well no yeah i've been to one event so you can match them and they have a table for themselves and don't put them with a technical director that that is yeah maybe it's gonna be lost or i mean talking about it's a cliche about the technical director not being an outgoing person but if there's a member of the team either in your team or in that crowd better that speaks to that crowd better and then suddenly you have one event one budget but you've done the somehow when people talk about personalized experience they think about you know um vr experience and they think about super complicated things sometimes it's just like giving people what they need which is the technical details the opportunity to sing together or you know to bring their own bottle whatever but i mean i always i don't want to make things sounds like they are easy to do i know how complicated it is to sell wine today but my point is a way of thinking i'm sure this is doable we do it for a wedding we can do it for a customer i do think you're interesting just thinking back to what you said around the immediacy and that that being quite a big barrier to how because a lot of what you're talking what you talk about i completely agree with and i think it's just that feeling that it's it's quite a far thing to read like it's a set it's accepting that the whole thing is much more of a journey than it is an immediate transaction and i think what's been really interesting listening to your point is i think you're just being really thoughtful about the

1:07:09Jonathan Stevenson:whole process whereas i think if you are an industry and we're in the trade and i think this is the point you made earlier it's easy for us to kind of get into that transactional mindset that transactional mode i think being a bit more deliberate a bit more thoughtful about the whole process in a way enables a better overall experience which i think you know is something that you know i can take away from today which i think you know it's really insightful some of the stuff you're saying well we've been we've been quite lucky in that for a whole generation of trade people and again i don't want to diminish everybody's work but it's been quite easy to sell wine right over the last 15 years maybe 20 if i can exaggerate a bit yeah probably um it's not the case anymore like selling wine at every sort of price point or level is not that easy for lots of different reasons one being economics and just people having less money a second one being there's less young people so um alcohol concentration is really focused on the youngs um so selling wine today is more difficult right so if it was still easy i would say just you know if your company works continue right there's no reason to be worried it's not the case today and i'm i think there's loads of things when we look at the levers there's loads of things that we are not doing really well because for some reason it worked before so we never really thought about doing it differently we were making money we were selling we were growing it's not the case for a lot of people today and um the english saying of never waste a good crisis i think it's really a good moment for us to like like why are we doing this and i think we are the first one to that to be wine is amazing it's a social lubricant it brings people together and then we'll be we build business models that are just very transactional and selling bottles which again makes sense no judgment but that might be a good time today to actually well if that's really what we're here for yeah what can we do to improve yeah what we offer to our customer i will now take the opportunity to introduce a quick game that we're going to play Alexa always likes to give us a game and today we're going to play a game called Hype or Hold I'm going to give you a trend shaping the future of fine wine and you tell us, both you and Tom whether it's a real lasting shift the industry should build around or hype that will fade So hold is the long term thing and hype is something that will probably fail Yes.

1:09:43Fade. Fade. Or fail. Or both. Yeah. Okay. So first one, and in brackets here it says rapid fire. So forgive me if I really fire this across. Under 40s will drink less but spend more per bottle. Hold. Tom? I'm going to follow in on hold. Okay.

1:10:05Jonathan Stevenson:Very good. Save option. I'll go first next. I'll go first next. Sustainability credentials will move fine wine prices within 10 years. move up or down up um hold sustainability credentials are important and sustainability can't be differentiated to fine wine i'm not sure that will put the price up i think it's i think it's the baseline it's just like but it doesn't table stakes yeah yeah okay yeah um one education so the WCT etc is the gateway to the next generation hype you said hype no I'm going to say hold education is important and the WCT has done miracles in Asia speaking of which China is the growth engine for fine wines future hype hold it's one of the growth engine it's getting tense now we need like the and culture and culture interestingly is the key because fine like china is the reverse than europe where wine has built through economics without being a cultural product so it's been developed because it's an economic product but with no culture that doesn't have a place in people's life and that's that's the hold is that if wine can find a place in people's life, which it has started to do during COVID, that's the next big thing.

1:11:38In China specifically? Yeah. Do you think as well, as they begin to produce their own wine? Yeah, maybe not European wine, but wine. Okay. Interesting. Experience over ownership, tastings and travel beat building a cellar. It goes hand in hand.

1:11:57Jonathan Stevenson:Yeah, it's a difficult one because I am a firm believer in experience rather than just being about... But you love your cellar. Well, it's got to go hand in hand. It's got to be together. You can't just experience it and never own the bottles. I think being experience-led is hold, because I think it is the future of wine. I think it's going to help wine into the future, like playing on the experience side. But knowing how the collector brains work, it's all about holding a product as well. You can collect experience, but yeah. Yeah, that was slightly ambiguous to be fair. fine wine as an investable asset class is here to stay it'd be funny if i said height wouldn't it hold hold i mean we haven't had the chance to cover that question like on graham norton so if you say no i think people i mean the valuation of wine on the secondary market is here to say again i've describe some of those mechanisms behind it.

1:12:56Now, I really want to question fine wine as an investment asset because until Monday, until very recently this week, I had never met someone that had made real money in wine. Like usually the people, the money that people make on wine is absolutely not comparable to the money that they make in real estate and bonds and stocks and everything and I think it's somehow intellectually false to present it as the same category of investment because it's a game and if you can make 10 20 30k on it fine but that doesn't build you a retirement plan now I've met someone on Monday that had made a very very very very big amount of money on wine 20 years ago and he was saying that it's not possible to do it again today so I don't know what's your take on it I think even if you can make money with wine a bit presenting it as an investment asset is slightly wrong because again it's not your retirement plan i think it

1:13:55Jonathan Stevenson:really comes down to like the the bit like we were saying earlier in terms of wine isn't the only thing that you invest in you know at the end of the day a lot of people that invest in the stock market they have real estate these people have a lot of wealth so they're doing it for fun but it's not serious money no but it's a diversification from the perspective of it is very important i think and it doesn't have to be wine it could be things like art it could be cars it could be other alternative asset classes i do think at a certain level of wealth it's very important to diversify your investment portfolio the assets that you hold away from just things that are directly correlated to financial markets and i think really you know we would never speak to or encourage anyone to okay your entitlement plan is all about wine that's absolutely crazy but i think if you again if we think about the pyramid it's like you start with your classic you know bonds stocks and shares obviously cash ices you know income producing products but at the bottom if you have enough wealth and income you should be diversifying your your overall investment assets away from just that basket of individual assets because there is enough proof and evidence you know over the last 20 30 40 50 years that fine wines do appreciate so at the end of the day if you can hold an asset yes that holds value and actually so i'll reframe that question the capacity of wine to make substantial revenue is probably a hype today for the time being the capacity of wine to generate revenue the way it had up until 2010 probably, is probably over for the foreseeable future.

1:15:23It might come back. I don't know if it's suitable or not, but that's another conversation.

1:15:28Jonathan Stevenson:I think the other thing about investing in wine, because I think it's such a contentious description of what the process is, I think the way that wine is manufactured, the way that it's consumed, the way it has to mature, at the end of the day, wineries make wines today and they release them at too young an age and they're not supposed to be drunk for 10, 30, 10 20 30 years who's who's carrying that cost economically that's there has to be there has to be an economic incentive yes so the two things i would say last 20 years the proliferation of investing in wine as an asset class one of the biggest upsides is going to be in the next 20 or 30 years as consumers we're going to have so much more access to mature wines that have been stored correctly because people have an economic incentive to store it correctly you know if you go back to the 70s 80s i've had enough bad bottles of 70s and 80s wines and i've had good ones because there wasn't the incentive they weren't looked after in the correct way so i think there's a benefit of investment in wine is i think a integral part of the fine wine market because someone has to have some sort of economic sense it's slightly different to say we want we find the fact that wine values on price through time different than saying investment and making money out of it because you might just want to recuperate like the valuation of a wine is for many different reason essential like collectors they need that you know that rationale of their behaviors as you were saying covering the cost of aging but there's a difference in presenting it in asset class that is slightly different like the fact that you can invest in wine because it's not going to lose value and it's going to give you at least cover the cost and allow you to to taste those amazing wines 20 years later without having lost money is different than to say invest in wine because it's a seven percent return it's a slightly different thing and i'm just saying on on the investment asset pure things i think it's just one of those branch of those trees that gives someone another experience with wine i don't think it will be able to bring that kind of return on investment like it did before in the foreseeable future because some of those mechanisms that led to wine being really interesting financially are not in place at the moment that that's unless it has william kelly written on the label yeah yeah yeah and for very specific wine in particular like some like unicorn wines that you you will always like find a bottle but generally speaking like the way people in the and again it's very market related because you can't do that in france it had you know there's only certain marking that allows that um i think that was a very difficult no i think about i think with i think with wine there's like an economic framework that i kind of think of like as time elasticity which is the time elasticity principle with wine is that if i have a wine that's that wine there but a 2001 vintage and this is the 2018 vintage generally speaking if i said the 01 vintage is 50 and the 18 vintage is 50 which one do you want to buy you know you most people i say would trend towards the 2001 right because they're going to say well to get that wine with that level of age and maturity i'll pay 50 if i said the 2001 was 100 this one's 50 then you'll start to see some people shift towards the 18 younger vintage versus the older vintage then you get to a point where i say well the 2001's 500 the 18's 50 you almost like 99 of people want to go to the 18 vintage right and then you get this converse effect where if i said it was 5 000 for the 2001 you get some people moving back to the 2001 because they think oh if it's that much more expensive there must be a reason but there is this economic theory around time elasticity and i think that principle of wine is why fine wine as an asset class or as an investment or as a product will always appreciate in value because people are willing to forego time i'm willing to forego time and pay a premium for foregoing time and really that's down to every individual how much they're willing to forego and the availability of that particular asset class but that's why fine wine as an asset will always appreciate in value or deliver let's say financial returns over the long run because i know for a fact that a well-stored bottle of wine comparably is going to fetch more in the market than one that's 10 years younger now the problem we've had in the wine market last five or six years is that newer vintages have become more expensive than the older vintages and therefore the whole thing's been flipped on its head so to your point yes that that model has somewhat broken down a little bit because there's been maybe some egregious price increases especially from certain regions where suddenly why would i pay double the price for the 2018 vintage when a 2001 is half the price now obviously everyone's going to trend towards the 01 and that's kind of what you're seeing happen in the marketplace so i think there's a lot of nuance to this whole concept of investment i think you said something earlier around collectors which is collectors obviously are collecting for the rarity and wanting to own wines they're going to have more than they ever have but the value of them is almost kind of that secondary reassurance around their whole passion for collecting wine which is i collected it because i wanted to own these rarities but also at the same time knowing that they have gone up in value is also kind of a secondary benefit.

1:20:19Well, my point was just like when you present wine as an investment class or an asset, you always have two things, right? There's the existence of the secondary market and for all the reasons that you've said, that will continue. And wine valuation through time will continue, maybe not as much as we've seen in the past. But then there's people that just buy wine, like they would buy stock exchange thing because that just brings them money. That is something that I see. some like that's something for me which is slightly different um that's that's all i

1:20:50Jonathan Stevenson:wanted to point it out no i completely do you know i don't necessarily disagree and i think what's interesting for us in our business is how many like how many of our clients have zero interest in wine like very few but how many of our clients are teetotalers very few but people and this goes back to your point around like that collective mindset sometimes people see investment as their way their gateway into wine yeah for those that may be a little bit more intimidating it's fun because it's fun like and i'm sure you have i mean that's also one of the things that made that bring young people to it is like all the digital platform that somehow gamify wine because it's fun it's just like an auction right you can have a lot of fun seeing your wine increase decrease i've met a lot of young consumers they've got an ex-house spreadsheet they see like they've got like those curbs and the things and that's a really big source of fun for them and i think that great go for it and following all the tools that you guys have online and you can have on your app on your phone and you can trade sitting on your bed at 2 a.m in the morning yeah because that's that's i think that's really nice entry point for a younger like generation that yeah yeah find that aspect very attractive just like when auction went online it really brought a lot of young people to the auction world yeah because that's just made it more fun um so i think yeah that's really to that extent i think that's really interesting yeah it's also an interesting way of bringing people into it because again it's all back to what gets you into it and what makes it fun for you and it might be the technical detail of it or it might be the valuation of the 2018 vintage and comparing to estates you know yeah i think the other thing for me as well i think again looking at like the future of wine it's i think about this concept of optionality so when you when you buy a wine you know you might not know your specific intention in the future you know i might be desired i might want to buy that wine for you know as you said a rarity chasing after putting it into my collection filling in a vintage i didn't have i'm going to drink that wine i have the intention to drink but whatever your intentions are you want to maximize optionality and when i talk about maximizing opportunity is whether i decide to end up drinking that wine or end up reselling i want to maximize the either drinking experience or the economic benefit and i actually think both of them are intrinsically linked as in if you're buying purely for drinking you're going to look after and protect and do exactly the same things you're going to do if you also want to maximize the value in terms of how you acquire it how you store it how you eventually dispose of that of that asset or that case of wine and actually the two don't have to be mutually exclusive they actually can be the same thing and so that's the thing that we are really trying to drive of our platforms and our apps and the tools that we build which is trying to facilitate this ability for people to own wine in a very optionally maximal way which is i can own a collection of wine that i know any time of day i can get delivered to me any part of the world but also at the same time i can wake up in the morning with a notification on my phone saying someone's just bid a thousand dollars for this bottle of wine that i paid 500 for do i want to sell it press one button sold the wine get the cash and it's done but similarly the next day if i wake up my friend says to me hey bring down a bottle of you know mouton rothschild and we're right get that delivered to me and then two days later the wine delivers to you and you drink it and it's in perfect condition so for me that's what i think is not the future of wine but i think that's what we're trying to drive towards which enables people not to maybe have the pressure of one or the other but still have the excitement of both being a collector but also having a financial interest of it as well anyway that was quite i mean that's quite divisive topics but right at the end of the podcast.

1:24:22Jonathan Stevenson:I mean, we could... Do you have some more... We need to do part two now. So you need to stay... Because there's too much more to talk about. You got into a controversial topic. Do you want to just quickly cover the wine? Did you enjoy the wine that we had today? I love the wine. Thank you so much. So yeah, so this was 2018 from the main Pierre Besson Merceau Le Grand Charon, which is not a premier crew. I think it's a L 'Ordie. I thought it was fantastic. Really good. Yeah, it's the best it showed, I think, as well. Yeah, quite reductive on the nose. Quite really expressive. I think we mentioned that earlier.

1:24:47Jonathan Stevenson:Strong aromas. thank you so much no I can't answer that question I don't have too controversial I don't have a favourite kid either I love all of them for different reasons

1:25:02Jonathan Stevenson:but yeah thank you very much this has been an excellent start to series 2 well thank you so much for having me it was fascinating talking to you as well it's fascinating to hear from you someone that's obviously right in the nadir of the fine wine industry market category really got your finger to the pulse and to be honest if you're just sitting here I was thinking to myself I can't believe we're managing to do this for free on a podcast like if we had to pay you as a consultant it'd be costing us thousands of pounds so thanks very much for a free letter in business strategy go to the Arini.global website and you can subscribe to the newsletter do you know what I was going to say the report you released was it in February yeah yeah I mean absolutely brilliant report if you haven't heard about it online or read about it do go to your website it's available on there I think they can sign up yeah so the way Arini works is 60 to 70 percent of what we do is free for everyone and we have a podcast as well we have articles we've got two newsletters a month and then maybe 30 to 40 percent of what we do is for members so the best way to get access to everything that we do and that would be all the reports but also some of the members events that we do well we organize online and physical roundtables so that's the moment where we put people together around one questions and then people can discuss that and benchmark and share good practices um so you can become a member membership for full access is 440 pounds a year um and that will give you everything and as you were saying thank you for pointing out the report is worth way more than that so exactly if ever there was a reason to go down and subscribe so um look thank you very much for coming um this has been a great episode i've really enjoyed it jonathan thank you very much for being thank you very much yeah really enjoyed it and yeah everyone at home you know what you need to do you need to like you need to subscribe you need to leave us some comments whether you're listening on your favorite podcast channel whether you're listening on Spotify even on YouTube or maybe just on our social media you're looking at clips make sure you engage with us we want to hear from you if there's any type of guests you want us to have on if there's any particular topics you want us to cover we'd love to hear from you and we really hope you enjoyed this episode we did here and we can't wait to hear you next time and thank you very much to alexa our our ever-present uh driving force behind this podcast if it wasn't for alexa none of this would happen so thank you so much for all of your efforts um and that puts the pressure on her for episode two so you've set the bar high now we need to we need to we need to keep delivering so we're looking forward to seeing who the next guest will be but yeah thank you very much i'll stop going on and uh yeah we'll see you soon

From the publisher

🍷 Is wine still culturally relevant? What makes someone become a collector? And how can the fine wine trade connect with the next generation?


In Episode 13 of Uncorked, Tom Gearing and Jonathan Stevenson welcome Pauline Vicard, Co-founder and Executive Director of Areni Global, for a wide-ranging discussion on the future of fine wine.

Drawing on Areni Global's landmark research into under-40 fine wine consumers, the conversation explores collecting, community, cultural relevance, wine events, changing consumer behaviour, and the challenges facing the industry today.

Pauline shares her views on what separates buyers from collectors, why community is essential to engagement, and how the wine trade can create more meaningful experiences around wine. Together, the panel discusses whether fine wine is still culturally relevant, how younger consumers discover the category, and what businesses need to do differently if they want to engage the next generation of collectors.


📌 Topics covered in this episode:

  • Meet Pauline Vicard and Areni Global
  • Is wine losing cultural relevance?
  • Why the industry can no longer take culture for granted
  • The difference between buyers and collectors
  • How younger consumers discover fine wine
  • Why community matters as much as education and access
  • Rethinking wine events and hospitality
  • Selling fine wine in a changing market
  • Sustainability, education, China and the future of fine wine
  • Fine wine as an investable asset
  • Hype or Hold: separating long-term trends from short-term noise


One of the episode's central themes is that collecting is about far more than ownership. Pauline argues that collectors don't just need great bottles, they need great people to share them with. This sparks a fascinating discussion about wine friendships, community building, hospitality and why the industry's future may depend as much on connection as it does on product.

The conversation also explores Areni Global's research project, The New Fine Wine Consumer: How Under-40s Find Their Way into Fine Wine, which draws on interviews, surveys, focus groups and behavioural research conducted across London, Paris, New York, Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai.


📖 Interested in learning more?

As an Uncorked listener, you can receive 15% off Areni Global membership using code CULT15 at checkout (valid until 20 July 2026).


🔗 Areni Global: https://areni.global/

🔗 The New Fine Wine Consumer report:
https://areni.global/report/the-new-fine-wine-customer/

🔗 Become an Areni Insider:
https://areni.global/become-a-member/


Whether you're a collector, investor, wine professional or simply passionate about fine wine, this episode offers a thought-provoking look at where the industry goes next.


🍇 Explore more:

🔗 Cult Wines: https://www.wineinvestment.com/

🔗 CultX: https://www.cultx.com/


Follow Uncorked for more conversations on fine wine, collecting, investing, and the people shaping the future of the market.

More from Uncorked: A Cult Wines Podcast

All 15 episodes
Wine’s Culture ProblemUncorked: A Cult Wines Podcast · 1 h 28 min
Listen in VO