The Sweetener Wars | Sweet Goes Sour | 2

2 Sep 2026 · 44 min · 19 chapters

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In short

The “sweetener wars” from 1988–2010s: internal fraud at Cumberland Packing (Sweet’ n Low), legal battles over brand packaging and false advertising, Monsanto’s aspartame patent cliff, and Splenda’s rise via sucralose plus “made from sugar” marketing—followed by ongoing health scares and later shifts toward stevia.

Guest backgrounds

No episode guests are interviewed. The episode includes dramatized scenes and references to real people (e.g., Cumberland President Marvin Eisenstadt; CFO Gil Medeiros; Joe Asaro; Monsanto executives; Dr. Olney; Sashikant Fadnes; ad/brand figures like Cher, Lauren Hutton, Raquel Welch).

Key claims

Cumberland’s Sweet’ n Low fraud (fake invoices, tax evasion) and later legal/advertising fights; Monsanto can’t trademark a color (blue packets); Splenda’s “made from sugar” tagline misleads consumers; aspartame safety remains disputed; Splenda dominates despite lawsuits and health concerns.

Notable examples

1991 Supreme Court color ruling; 1993 federal raid and 1995 guilty pleas; Equal’s celebrity ads vs Cumberland’s counter-ads; 2000–2004 Splenda market takeover; 2007–2008 lawsuits and France ruling; later stevia efforts (Pure Via, In the Raw) and Cumberland’s 2016 factory closure.

Written by AI. May contain mistakes. Listen to the episode to check what was said.

Chapters

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The Walk and Talk: A Confession of Fraud

0:29 to 4:52

Joe Asaro reveals a massive fraud to Marvin Eisenstadt, leading to a crisis.

“The headquarters of Cumberland Packing, the company behind Sweet 'n Low.”

The Sweetener Wars Begin

4:52 to 6:10

The introduction of SweetOne and the ensuing legal battles with Monsanto.

“From Audible Originals, I'm David Brown, and this is Business Wars.”

Market Dominance and Legal Challenges

6:10 to 8:12

NutraSweet's dominance and impending patent expiration create tension.

“It's February 1989, less than a year since Joe Asaro's sidewalk confession.”

The Federal Raid and Guilty Pleas

8:12 to 13:22

Federal agents raid Cumberland, leading to critical legal consequences.

“As the 1990s begin, Monsanto and its NutraSweet brand own 70 % of the artificial sweetener market.”

The Medeiros Brothers' Trial

13:22 to 14:00

The Medeiros brothers are tried and convicted for their roles in the fraud.

“Marvin admits to knowingly filing false tax returns and conspiring to impair the operations of the Internal Revenue Service.”

Legal Fallout and Corporate Responsibility

14:00 to 16:06

Explore the legal consequences for key players involved in the sweetener scandal.

“Four outside contractors and a lawyer plead guilty to a range of other offenses.”

Health Concerns Around Aspartame

16:39 to 19:18

Investigate the rising health concerns associated with aspartame and its history.

“We've found that in the last eight or nine years, which is about three to five years after aspartame was approved, there's been a striking increase in the incidence of malignant brain tumors.”

The Emergence of Sucralose

19:18 to 21:51

Learn about the discovery and market introduction of sucralose as a sweetener.

“However, the timing of this wave of doubt is about to play into the hands of a new competitor.”

Cumberland's Missed Opportunity with Sucralose

21:51 to 24:31

Analyze Cumberland Packing's decision to decline the sucralose patent offer.

“You know, this is one of those decisions that only looks obvious in hindsight.”

Splenda's Rise and Legal Challenges

24:31 to 27:14

Understand Splenda's market rise and the lawsuits challenging its marketing claims.

“You know, Splenda's rise is a reminder that market leaders usually aren't displaced by one single advantage.”
Show all 19 chapters

The Sugar Industry's Fight Against Splenda

27:14 to 28:00

Explore the sugar industry's response to the emergence of artificial sweeteners like Splenda.

“McNeil issues a countersuit, accusing the Sugar Association of defamation by running a malicious smear campaign against Splenda.”

The Sugar Industry's Struggle Against Artificial Sweeteners

28:00 to 29:00

Explore the challenges faced by the sugar industry with the rise of artificial sweeteners.

“It also suggests Splenda has not been thoroughly tested.”

The Legal Battle Over Splenda

29:40 to 33:10

Delve into the courtroom drama surrounding the misleading advertising of Splenda.

“Join Audible in the Audible app or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts.”

Marketing and Consumer Perception Strategies

33:10 to 35:21

Understand how marketing strategies shifted focus from ingredients to consumer perception.

“Once a category starts competing about perception instead of ingredients, every line on a package becomes a strategic asset, a highly prized weapon that could win or lose a business war.”

Health Concerns and Consumer Distrust

35:21 to 37:53

Examine the ongoing health concerns associated with artificial sweeteners and market trends.

“But for all its success, even Splenda can't shake the health concerns that have dogged every artificial sweetener since the Cyclomates ban of 1969.”

Emerging Natural Sweeteners: The Stevia Solution

37:53 to 40:55

Investigate the rise of natural sweeteners like stevia as alternatives to artificial options.

“But the trouble is the news cycle will not wait.”

The Sweetener Industry's Evolution

40:55 to 42:01

Follow the transformation of the sweetener industry with new product developments and lawsuits.

“The leading contender comes from the stevia plant, which is native to South America.”

The Competitive Landscape of Sweeteners

42:01 to 44:36

Explore the challenges and strategies of different sweetener brands in a competitive market.

“The lawsuit contends that's not true because Pure Via also contains highly processed dextrose and chemically extracted stevia derivatives.”

The Promise of Artificial Sweeteners

44:36 to 45:08

Discusses why artificial sweeteners remain popular despite health concerns.

“only underscores how unresolved the science remains.”
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Transcript

Automatic transcript. May contain errors.

0:28Hey, Business Wars fans, have you heard?

0:361988, Brooklyn, New York. The headquarters of Cumberland Packing, the company behind Sweet 'n Low. Yeah? Joe Asaro taps gently on the office door of company boss Marvin Eisenstadt. Asaro is a Sicilian immigrant who's lived in New York State for over 25 years. He first got involved with Cumberland as a construction contractor before becoming its vice president of government affairs. Right now, he needs to have a tricky conversation with Marvin, one that's too tricky to conduct inside the company's walls. Ever since Marvin's son Jeffrey began sniffing around, the wheels look like they're coming off Asaro's additional enterprise.

1:17Asaro walks into the office, looking intensely at Marvin with his dark, close-set eyes. Okay, if we have a chat, boss? Outside? Take a walk? Eisenstadt agrees, and both men head out into the Brooklyn sunshine. It's a warm late summer morning, but this won't be a leisurely stroll. Marvin knows exactly what it means when someone wants a walk and talk. Chatting away from the factory? That means trouble. Marvin's son has discovered that a group of shell companies, all operating from the same address, has been siphoning large sums of money from Cumberland. Subpoenas have been filed against Asaro and other contractors.

2:00Marvin is aware there's a problem, but doesn't seem to grasp just how deep it goes. When he heard about the subpoenas, he simply told staff to be squeaky clean and to do everything right. As if this is all some administrative error. As they head toward Fort Greene Park, Asaro almost feels sorry for him. They walk in silence for a few minutes. Then the Sicilian takes a deep breath. Marvin, I need to tell you something. And I just have to tell you straight. Because you're going to find out sooner or later. We've been stealing from the company. Mario, Gil, and me. We've been sending Cumberland fake invoices for stuff.

2:49Marvin nods slowly. Mario and Gil Medeiros are brothers, and Gil is Cumberland's chief financial officer. Marvin knows something's been going on, but he didn't realize the scale of the fraud. He almost doesn't dare ask. How much? A lot. Like a... like a real lot. Cumberland has paid for more equipment that could possibly fit in the factory. You've also had the parking lot paved a dozen times the last two years. Marvin stops in the street, momentarily confused. But we haven't had the parking lot paved. Yeah, I know. I'm sorry. Look, Marvin, I don't know what to say. My house, even my house, it was built with Cumberland money.

3:41Marvin's world is collapsing around him. He trusted these men to do their jobs. Asaro watches him closely, waiting to see how he will respond. Marvin shakes his head as if this will help focus his tumbling thoughts. He's been completely ripped off. And yet, he still feels a loyalty to Asaro and the Medeiros brothers. He should fire all three instantly. He should call the police. This isn't a few thousand dollars. This could be millions, but it's also explosive news. A fraud scandal inside the company behind America's favorite sweetener? That could be a death sentence for both Cumberland and Sweet 'n Lowe, and everything the Eisenstadt family has built.

4:31Marvin looks at Asaro. Joe, I don't want anyone to go to jail. I don't want any trouble. He looks almost pleadingly at Asaro. Is there any way we can keep this quiet?

4:52From Audible Originals, I'm David Brown, and this is Business Wars.

5:18James Arthur Ray was a charismatic self-help guru who promised his followers a path to wealth and enlightenment by becoming the best versions of themselves. But not all who followed him finished their journey. For the best bingeable series, listen to the Audible True Crime Podcast wherever you get your podcasts.

5:41Cumberland Packing used the U.S. ban on cyclamates to turn Sweet and Low into the leading tabletop sugar substitute. But then Donald Rumsfeld helped aspartame escape regulatory quicksand and become the new market leader under the brands NutraSweet and Equal. Now, fraud threatens to destroy Cumberland from within. But there's an even bigger threat coming. A newcomer called Splenda. And it's about to upend the entire market. This is Episode 2, Sweet Goes Sour.

6:22It's February 1989, less than a year since Joe Asaro's sidewalk confession. Cumberland President Marvin Eisenstadt has chosen to keep the fraud quiet. And for now, the secret holds. But the company can't afford to stand still. because NutraSweet's legal team is on the attack. Their target? Cumberland Packing. Cumberland has just launched a new zero-calorie sugar substitute called SweetOne. It's made with a different chemical than Sweet & Low, something called Ac-Sulfame-K. And Monsanto, the company behind competitors NutraSweet & Equal, isn't happy. But not because of what's in the packet. It's upset about the packaging.

7:06Sweet one comes in baby blue packets, the same color as equal. These colors aren't just packaging choices. They're how millions of people differentiate between these brands. Monsanto believes blue is equals color, just as pink is sweet and low's color. It thinks Cumberland is copying equals blue packets in an attempt to confuse consumers. And Cumberland boss Marvin agrees that's true. But he's not backing down. Instead, he argues that Monsanto can't own the color blue. The case goes to court, where Monsanto loses, appeals, and loses again. Eventually, the clash reaches the Supreme Court. And in 1991, the Supreme Court backs Cumberland, ruling that a company cannot trademark just a color.

7:59To allow that would mean manufacturers would quickly monopolize every color, stifling competition. It's a legal win for Cumberland, but it doesn't help Sweet 'n Lowe's market position. As the 1990s begin, Monsanto and its NutraSweet brand own 70 % of the artificial sweetener market. NutraSweet is used in thousands of products worldwide, including Diet Coke. But inside Monsanto headquarters, its executives know the truth. NutraSweet's days of world domination are running out. NutraSweet is made from aspartame, and Monsanto's patent on that artificial sweetener expires in December 1992. After that, anyone can produce aspartame, and that leaves Monsanto with just two years to shore up customer loyalty.

8:55To do this, Monsanto launches an ad campaign linking NutraSuite with an aspirational lifestyle. Well, now we're celebrating our 10th anniversary, and we thought you might want to know who's here, enjoying the over 4 ,000 products with NutraSuite. Hmm, are there dumb people here? Nope. Alien people? Nope. Mean people? Nope. Active, health-conscious people who care about the way their food tastes? Bingo! But Monsanto knows it's going to take a hit, no matter how much marketing it does. Coca-Cola and Pepsi are already looking for cheaper suppliers of aspartame, and these two companies alone comprise around two-thirds of NutraSweet sales.

9:32So as the expiration date on the patent nears, Monsanto cuts its NutraSweet workforce by more than 15 % and prepares for a 30 % drop in aspartame prices. Cumberland President Marvin Eisenstadt could sit back and watch Monsanto's troubles with some popcorn. if only Cumberland's criminal problems weren't deepening.

10:02It's early morning on February 23, 1993, and in Brooklyn, the temperature isn't much above freezing. Outside the Cumberland packing factory, 24 federal agents are getting into position. They're dressed in jeans and windbreakers to hide their protective gear. Some are armed and carrying handcuffs. They quietly split into three groups of eight. At 8.30 a.m., they announce their arrival with loud bangs on doors. They enter, flashing warrants and racing down the corridors. The factory's already open. Women in hairnet step back from their machines, looking around for someone to tell them what's happening.

10:43The agents block the exits and cut the phone lines, shutting the factory off from the outside world. And then they start to turn the place upside down. One agent finds$10 ,000 in cash in the office of Chief Financial Officer Gil Madero. Another agent finds an incriminating note about falsifying shipments of cream of tartar attached to a Rolodex. As the search continues, a maintenance worker quickly hides a package of corporate ledgers in a hole in the factory wall. Eventually, the agents reach the cramped private office of company president Marvin Eisenstadt and lead him out. He'd waited years for this job.

11:24The top job, the one his father had taken ages to vacate. He'd only just gotten comfortable in the role. And now, it looks like it's all going to be ripped from him in the most brutal of ways.

11:44Marvin, Asaro, the Medeiros brothers and others face criminal charges of fraud and tax evasion. But despite being arrested and charged, Marvin and Cumberland aren't backing down from the sweetener wars. And neither is Equal. It's been two years since Equal failed to stop Cumberland's sweet one from using blue packets. Now, the brand is going on the offensive, launching a TV ad campaign featuring celebrities like Cher, Lauren Hutton, and Raquel Welch. Once I broke the sugar habit, I couldn't go back on. And, I mean, I won't even put that pink stuff on anything. I have to have the equal. That pink stuff?

12:25Equal is taking a direct shot at Sweet 'n Low and its pale pink packets. Marvin tells the New York Times. He finds the comments about his company's flagship brand to be sort of offensive. So in 1994, Cumberland fires back with an ad that mocks Equals's celebrity endorsements. In the ad, a middle-aged actress meets her agent. He's got a great new part for her, promoting Equal as her favorite sweetener. How many of you sweeten love? Yeah, well, that's what they call it acting. Nobody's that good. Cumberland spends an estimated$13 million on advertising that year, more than Equal's$11 million. But it doesn't matter.

13:08Equal still keeps the top spot. The ad war can only distract Marvin from his real troubles for so long. In April 1995, with evidence mounting against them, Marvin and Asaro arrive at Brooklyn Federal Court and plead guilty. Marvin admits to knowingly filing false tax returns and conspiring to impair the operations of the Internal Revenue Service. Osaro pleads guilty to conspiring to defraud the IRS and filing false documents with the Federal Election Commission. He had been encouraging Cumberland's contractors to pad their invoices and then donate the extra money to both Republican and Democratic politicians.

13:52The prosecution says these illegal donations alone amount to over$200 ,000. Asaro also pleads guilty to witness tampering. Four outside contractors and a lawyer plead guilty to a range of other offenses. And both Asaro and Marvin agree to cooperate with the U.S. Attorney's Office in exchange for a leniency. Outside the courtroom, Asaro's attorney handles the scrum of reporters. Mr. Asaro did what he did. He's now taken full responsibility. Nearby, Marvin Eisenstadt paints himself as the victim, a trusting boss who got played by Asaro. He had a very impressive wall of photographs with politicians.

14:35He could have dinner with a pope, at least that was what he told me. Obviously, I was very gullible. When the Medeiros brothers finally go on trial, Lawyers detail how they skimmed millions of dollars from Cumberland using shell corporations and phony invoices. The brothers are found guilty. Mario Medeiros is sentenced to eight years in prison, and Gil Medeiros gets ten years. Asaro and Marvin get probation, and Cumberland Packing is ordered to pay a fine of more than$2 million for conspiracy to defraud the IRS. Marvin managed to avoid prison and Cumberland has survived but its reputation and its bank balance have taken a beating and as it tries to make a fresh start its archenemy Equal is about to find itself in the spotlight for all the wrong reasons because the health fears around Aspartame are back.

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17:08University Medical School in St. Louis. We've found that in the last eight or nine years, which is about three to five years after aspartame was approved, there's been a striking increase in the incidence of malignant brain tumors. Dr. Olney does not say flat out that aspartame is responsible for the rise in brain tumors, but he does believe that his analysis of the data shows that it's the most likely suspect. The aspartame patent may have expired, but this is bad news for Monsanto. Its NutraSweet and Equal brands are still going strong, but with studies linking their core ingredient to brain tumors, it needs to defend the sweetener.

17:56In the same 60 Minutes episode, Monsanto's head of public policy, insists aspartame is one of the safest additives ever approved by the FDA, and that it's safe for everyone. But Dr. Olney argues his findings raise enough of a question mark that it's time to reassess the sweetener's safety. Questions about aspartame aren't new. They date all the way back to the early 1970s, when it first tried to get approval. There have been plenty of studies since then, but there's been a shortage of clear answers. Researchers looked at 164 studies on aspartame. Every single study funded by the sweetener industry concluded it was safe.

18:38Of the remaining 90 independent studies, 83 of them raised concerns. Now, put aside for the moment that this sounds like the science is getting hijacked. You gotta wonder, what's Monsanto trying to protect. The patent's expired, so what's going on here? Basically, well, it's trying to protect public confidence in its product, and by extension, its brands. NutraSweet and Equal may no longer have aspartame to themselves, but they still have brand value, and that's worth protecting, especially when those brands give Monsanto an advantage over every other aspartame manufacturer. Despite the new scare around aspartame, the FDA continues to back the sweetener.

19:23However, the timing of this wave of doubt is about to play into the hands of a new competitor. Splenda. It's made from suclerose, an artificial sweetener that's taken two decades to reach the market.

19:43It's almost 20 years before the 60 Minutes episode, 1975. And at Queen Elizabeth College in London, research chemist Sashikant Fadnes is working on a project sponsored by the British sugar producer Tate & Lyle. The goal is to see whether chlorinated sugar derivatives might work as insecticide. Fadnas takes a call from his boss, who tells him to test the compound they've been creating. Except Fadnas doesn't hear the word test. He thinks he's being asked to taste the potential insecticide. And remarkably, he complies, wincing as he puts the mix of sucralose and chlorine on the tip of his tongue.

20:28But instead of tasting awful, it tastes incredibly sweet. 600 times sweeter than natural sugar. And because of the way the compound works, your tongue can taste it, but your body can't absorb it, making it calorie-free. Welcome to sucralose. Tate and Lyle controls the manufacturing and owns the patents. But in 1980, Johnson & Johnson buys the rights to market it through its subsidiary, McNeil Nutritionals. Over the next several years, sucralose is greenlit for use in Canada and Australia. And in 1998, the FDA approves it in the United States for diet foods and soft drinks. Armed with U.S. rights and FDA approval, Johnson & Johnson approaches Cumberland Packing and offers to sell the sucralose patent.

21:24It sounds like a golden opportunity. A sweetener without the tainted reputation of saccharin or aspartame? A sweetener Cumberland would have exclusive control over? It's a chance to put the company back on top. But the Eisenstats say no. They're worried the cost of the equipment needed to produce the new sugar derivative. could run into the millions. So, Johnson & Johnson goes it alone. You know, this is one of those decisions that only looks obvious in hindsight. Cumberland wasn't just being asked to buy a sweetener. It was being asked to build the factories and the production systems to make it.

22:07Sometimes you see what seems like a good opportunity and have to walk away because you just can't afford everything else that comes with it. Here, the purchase price is almost like a down payment. The true opportunity cost is everything else you'll have to pay to extract the value of what you just purchased. Cumberland, well, they looked at the full picture and walked away, turning Johnson & Johnson into a competitor in the process.

22:39In the year 2000, Johnson & Johnson launches Sucralose as a tabletop sweetener under the brand name Splenda. It comes in pale yellow packets with the word Splenda in bold navy blue and a simple tagline underneath, no calorie sweetener. The yellow packets help Splenda stand out from sweet and low and equal. But Johnson & Johnson also wants to separate Splenda from the artificiality of its competitors. So it hires an ad agency who comes up with a slogan, made from sugar so it tastes like sugar. Splenda enters the market at a moment when its rivals are distracted. In May 2000, Monsanto decides to move away from the sweetener industry entirely.

23:26The company says it's part of a strategic realignment towards agricultural biotech and life sciences. The NutraSweet brand is sold to a private equity firm for$440 million. The tabletop sweetener business, including Equal, goes to an investor group who create a new company called Marisand. Meanwhile, at Cumberland, there's some good news at last. After 20 years of threatened bans and cancer warnings, Sweet & Low's main ingredient, saccharin, has finally been removed from the list of known carcinogens by the National Institutes of Health. It turns out that while saccharin appeared to cause bladder cancer in rats, that finding did not apply to humans after all.

24:12In theory, this should give Sweet 'n Low a boost. There will be no need to include a cancer warning on their packets anymore. But it's not enough. Within two years, Splenda replaces Sweet 'n Low as the number two sweetener brand in America. Within three years, it overtakes equal. And by the end of 2004, Splenda is pulling in more than$170 million in annual sales, having captured around 51 % of the market. You know, Splenda's rise is a reminder that market leaders usually aren't displaced by one single advantage. It wasn't just the advertising. It wasn't just the taste. It wasn't just the health perception either.

24:54It was several small pluses stacked on top of each other until consumers had enough reasons to switch. But a lot of its success comes down to its killer marketing slogan. Made from sugar, so it tastes like sugar. The slogan is technically true, but it's also not quite the full picture. Sucralose, the sweetener in Splenda, does start life as sugar, but that sugar evaporates away during the production process, so what the consumer uses to sweeten their coffee is not sugar. It's a synthetic compound. In 2002, McNeil Nutritionals tempers the wording and amends the slogan to made from sugar so it tastes like sugar, but it's not sugar.

25:39The change backfires and sales drop. So McNeil quickly backpedals and removes the qualifier. And demand rebounds. By late 2004, the demand for Splenda is so high that McNeil Nutritionals starts rationing shipments. It only has a single factory in McIntosh, Alabama. Smaller companies that now rely on Splenda for their own products become anxious. Soft drink companies like Jones Soda and Fuse Beverages worry that rationed supplies will just go to the big soft drink giants. But as Splenda tightens its grip on the market, two unlikely partners unite to take it on. The first is Marisand, the Chicago-based company that now makes equal.

26:28And the second, the Sugar Association, the lobbying group for America's$10 billion natural sugar industry. For years, sugar producers and artificial sweetener manufacturers have been enemies. But Splenda threatens them both. And in two separate lawsuits, they latch on to the same target, Splenda's made-from-sugar claims. In November 2004, Marisant files a lawsuit arguing that the made-from-sugar tagline deliberately deceives customers into believing Splenda is a natural product rather than a synthetic compound. Marisant is seeking more than$170 million in compensation for lost sales. The following month, the Sugar Association also sues, claiming the slogan confuses consumers and is damaging its sales.

27:24McNeil issues a countersuit, accusing the Sugar Association of defamation by running a malicious smear campaign against Splenda. The countersuit points to a website created by the Sugar Association called The Truth About Splenda. On it, there are claims that Johnson & Johnson wants consumers to think sucralose is natural when it's not. It asks visitors, do you know what your children are eating? The site argues that Johnson & Johnson is trying to hide the truth from consumers and trick them into thinking Splenda is real sugar minus the calories. It also suggests Splenda has not been thoroughly tested.

Read the full transcript

28:07And for the sugar industry, well, the fight is becoming one it cannot afford to lose. Splenda and other artificial sweeteners are pushing down table sugar's share of the market. If consumers decide they can get sweetness without the calories and guilt, the future of a$10 billion a year industry starts to look very bleak.

28:35What if AI could recreate the voice of somebody you loved who died? What if it destroyed your reputation with words you never said? And what if you fell in love with something that was never human? I'm Mark Fennell, and in my brand new Audible original podcast, I'm travelling the globe to investigate the very personal ways AI is already changing our relationships, our memories, and our sense of what is real. Unreal. Listen now on Audible.

29:05James Arthur Ray was a charismatic self-help guru who promised his followers a path to wealth and enlightenment by becoming the best versions of themselves. But not all who followed him finished their journey. After Ray appeared on Oprah, thousands flocked to his events. But what many people didn't know about were his more extreme methods. Methods that push his followers to their limits, giving some the transformative experience they envisioned, and killing others. For the best bingeable series like the one I just told you about, listen to the Audible True Crime Podcast wherever you get your podcasts.

29:39Audible subscribers can get all episodes early and ad-free right now. Join Audible in the Audible app or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts.

30:04It's April 2007, and in a federal courtroom in Philadelphia, it's the opening day of an unusual jury trial that will last a full month. False advertising claims are rarely heard in front of the jury, but there's a lot at stake for the$1.5 billion artificial sweetener market. The legal question at the heart of this case, when is sugar sugar and when is it not? Miracent's counsel, Greg Locascio, lays it out for the jury. You have three questions to consider. Were consumers misled into thinking Splenda contains sugar? Were consumers misled into thinking it was natural? And did McNeil nutritionals know this and intend to confuse those consumers?

30:51Locascio then spells out the impact Splenda's advertising drive has had on its parent company, Marisant. From 2003 to 2006, McNeil Nutritionals gained around$183 million in sales from Splenda. At the same time, Marisant lost nearly$25 million in sales, all of which, he tells the court, is because of false advertising. McNeil documents show the company new customers were confused and didn't do anything to stop it. They boasted in meetings with PepsiCo and Coca-Cola that consumers believed Splenda was natural and healthier than other artificial sweeteners. McNeil's attorney, Stephen Zalesen, pushes back.

31:37Splenda doesn't say made of sugar, it says made from sugar. Now if you visit a Splenda factory, you'll see trucks of sugar lining up. Of all the artificial sweeteners, there's only one that starts with sugar and closely resembles sugar. This case has been brought by a company that's trying to achieve in the courtroom what it failed to do in the marketplace. Zalesin turns to the jury. If this Splenda advertising was so deceptive, why did they wait four years before bringing this case? After four weeks of testimony, the jury reaches a verdict. But before they can deliver it, the makers of Equal and Splenda reach an undisclosed settlement.

32:21One insider suggests the jury had found in favor of Merisand. So Splenda agreed to pay a sum on the condition it wouldn't have to change its successful advertising strategy. But both companies refused to disclose the terms of their settlement. Outside the U.S., though, the legal fight ends differently. In France, the Commercial Court of Paris rules in Miracin's favor, concluding that Splenda intentionally confused consumers with its advertising. The court orders McNeil to stop claiming that Splenda is made from sugar. Now, let's pause for a moment and think about how far we've traveled. For decades, sweetener companies competed over taste, price, and safety.

33:10Once a category starts competing about perception instead of ingredients, every line on a package becomes a strategic asset, a highly prized weapon that could win or lose a business war. In a battle over perception, sticks and stones can break your bones, but words might cost you your company.

33:36Less than a month after the case concludes, Equal and Splenda's legal teams are at it again. Splenda's lawyers ask for more than the 30 days the company's been given to finalize the settlement. Equal asks the judge to enforce it. Then, in a regulatory filing in May, Mirasant reveals it's expecting a one-time payment of between$22 and$31 million. Splenda jumps on that and says Equal has broken the terms of their agreement by disclosing the settlement amount. The case goes back to court, where Marisand argues that either the settlement is paid or the jury's decision is made public. Eventually, a new private agreement is reached.

34:22Splenda only has a few months to recover before it's plunged into another legal battle, this time with the Sugar Association. In November 2007, at a federal court in Los Angeles, five U.S. sugar companies are ramping up the vitriol. They tell the court that the process used to make Splenda employs phosgene gas, a potentially deadly chemical weapon used during the First World War. But once again, the case is settled before the trial begins, in yet another undisclosed settlement. At this point, Splenda has 62 % of the U.S. market. It's not just in packets. It's in Cocoa Puffs, Diet Coke, and nearly 4 ,500 other products.

35:10Aspartame, Saccharin, and Acesulfame K have all been pushed aside. Sucralose is now the champion of the artificial sweetener trade. But for all its success, even Splenda can't shake the health concerns that have dogged every artificial sweetener since the Cyclomates ban of 1969.

35:37It's a Sunday morning in San Antonio, Texas, September 2008. Young married couple Caleb and Sophia sit around their kitchen island for what has become a weekend tradition, breakfast tacos. But while Sophia's opting for a freshly brewed coffee, Caleb's opting for something sweeter. A can of Diet Big Red soda. That's disgusting. What is? Drinking that stuff for breakfast. It's not good for you. Who says? It's zero sugar. See? I've got something to show you. It's here somewhere. Sophia retrieves a newspaper, brings it over, and points at an article published several days before. She starts reading.

36:21Ah, that stuff you're drinking's got sucralose in it. And researchers say that contributes to obesity, destroys good intestinal bacteria, and prevents prescription drugs from being absorbed. She leans back, folding her arms in a show of defiance. They've been arguing about Caleb's diet soda habit for some time now. Let me see that. Wait a minute. That study is paid for by the Sugar Association. They would say that, wouldn't they? But it was published by the Journal of Toxology and Environmental Health. That sounds pretty legit to me. A Sugar Association-funded rat study. That's what it says here.

37:04Researchers have been paid to say this stuff. You drink your coffee, my love. I'm sticking to this.

37:14Here's the problem with scientific research in a complex and contested area. The study published in the Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health was undertaken by Duke University and went through a peer review process, but one of the lead researchers still felt the need to say that the Sugar Association had no input into the study's findings. And here's the deeper issue. Proving cause and effect with what we eat is notoriously hard. Hundreds of factors are at play in how our bodies react to food. Pinpointing what does what with 100 % accuracy is almost impossible. It takes many studies carried out over years to narrow down the possibilities with plenty of wrong turns and dead ends along the way.

38:01But the trouble is the news cycle will not wait. Most folks want clear answers today. But if clarity is ever going to come, it's going to get there taking its own sweet time. By the end of the 2000s, the artificial sweetener market seems to be facing two directions at once. On the one hand, consumer distrust remains high. One report finds that around 6 out of 10 American adults say they are concerned about the safety of sweeteners. But on the other hand, consumption still continues to climb. In 2007, nearly 200 million Americans were using artificially sweetened products, with 45 % of households purchasing them on a regular basis.

38:47So what about the big three, the yellow packet, the pink one, and the blue? Splenda, the yellow, still dominates, having successfully marketed itself as the closest alternative to real sugar. Sweet and low, the pink one, is continuing its downward slope, with sales down 12 % between 2004 and 2007. Equal, blue, is in a free fall. Sales plummeted by a catastrophic 93 % across that same three-year period. The financial strain is so severe that its manufacturer, Marisant, is forced to execute a Chapter 11 bankruptcy plan to stabilize cash flows. More reports questioning the safety of sweeteners are released, including one in 2012 linking aspartame to cancer, although it's quickly pulled after critics say the findings are too weak.

39:40Nevertheless, the big players start to take note. In 2015, facing declining sales, Diet Pepsi switches from aspartame to sucralose, hoping the healthier image will help turn things around. It doesn't. Instead, Diet Pepsi's decline accelerates as the new sucralose recipe puts off existing drinkers rather than attracting new ones. Pepsi reverses the decision the following year. Ultimately, aspartame is cheaper than other artificial sweeteners, making it irresistible to the manufacturers of the diet sodas, teas, energy drinks, and sugar-free gums that rely on it. Also, people like the taste. For all the health headlines surrounding it, the economics keep pulling the industry back to the same ingredients.

40:32It looks like this cycle, scare, study, reassurance, repeat, is a merry-go-round, one that's never going to end. But there is a potential way off the ride, and the sweetener industry has been exploring it. Natural, plant-based alternatives to the compounds created in labs. The leading contender comes from the stevia plant, which is native to South America. It's a sweetener created by boiling the leaves of the plant, and the resulting extracts are more than 200 times sweeter than traditional sugar, providing the taste consumers crave, but with almost no calories or carbs. Sounds perfect, right?

41:16Well, not quite. Because it's so sweet, it has to be mixed with bulking agents or carriers to make it usable. You can see where this is going to go, can't you? But it's got promise. And through the first half of the 2010s, the big three tabletop sweetener manufacturers start experimenting with stevia and other plant-based sweeteners. In 2008, Mirasant, the manufacturer of Equal, launches Pure Via, the stevia-based sweetener developed in partnership with PepsiCo. It enjoys some success, but in 2014, its promise of natural zero-calorie sweetness sparks a class-action lawsuit challenging the claim that Pure Via is all-natural.

42:01The lawsuit contends that's not true because Pure Via also contains highly processed dextrose and chemically extracted stevia derivatives. Marisant settles by paying around$1.7 million and agreeing to modify Pure Via's labeling to point consumers to a website offering further information about how it's made. Sweet and Low manufacturer Cumberland Packing also embraces natural options, creating a new brand called In The Raw. Alongside Stevia, the In the Raw range also includes sweeteners based on agave syrup and monk fruit. The move helps push Cumberland's sales above$50 million in 2012. But it's not enough to keep the company in the manufacturing business.

42:47In January 2016, Cumberland announces the closure of its 70-year-old factory in Brooklyn, eliminating 300 jobs in the process. Going forward, the business will become asset-like, outsourcing production to other domestic companies. But while Cumberland and Marisant encounter setbacks, Splenda's dominance continues. In 2015, Johnson & Johnson sells Splenda to the Indiana-based Heartland Food Products Group for an undisclosed sum. Heartland is eager to expand the Splenda brand into stevia-based sweeteners, but it also wants to solve a supply problem. Stevia cultivation is heavily concentrated in China.

43:31So in 2021, Heartland buys 1 ,500 acres of land in Florida to start the first commercial-scale stevia farm in the United States. But stevia has a long way to go before the lab-created artificial sweeteners will feel truly threatened. As a crop, stevia is vulnerable to weather and seasonal shortages in ways that factory-made chemicals just aren't. It's also subject to import taxes. As a result, artificial sweeteners still have the cost advantage. The global stevia industry generates annual sales of around$800 million. But the total sugar substitute market in the U.S. alone was worth$2.1 billion in 2024.

44:19In the longer term, plant-based sweeteners may still offer a way out of the dilemma that's defined this industry for decades. Our uneasy trade-off between fewer calories and the unknown consequences of lab-created compounds. The World Health Organization's 2023 conclusion that aspartame is possibly carcinogenic only underscores how unresolved the science remains. And yet, for all the warnings, artificial sweeteners show little sign of disappearing. We keep on drinking, eating, and sweetening our coffee with them. Perhaps because the promise they make that we can keep the sweet taste we love without the consequences to our waistlines is powerful enough for many of us to live with the potential risks.

45:17Be sure to follow Business Wars on Audible or wherever you get your podcasts. And Audible subscribers can listen to new episodes of Business Wars one week early and ad-free right now. All you have to do is join Audible in the Audible app or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts.

45:41From Audible Originals, this is Episode 2 of The Sweetener Wars for Business Wars. A quick note about the recreations you've been hearing. In most cases, we can't know exactly what was said. Those scenes are dramatizations, but they're based on research. If you would want to learn more about this story, we recommend Sweet and Low by Rick Cohen. If you'd like to hear more about the artificial sweetener business, make sure to check out the audiobook version of Empty Pleasures by Carolyn De La Pena right now. It's on Audible. I'm your host, David Brown. Stephanie Power of Yellow Ant wrote this story.

46:14Research by David Walensky. Voice acting by Michelle Lee. Our senior producers are Jenny Bloom and Emily Frost. Our producer is Tristan Donovan of Yellow Ant. Karen Lowe is our producer emeritus. Our managing producer is Desi Blaylock. Fact-checking by Gabrielle Drolet. Sound design by Ryan Potesta. Kyle Randall is our lead sound designer. Executive producer for Audible, Jenny Lauer-Beckman. Head of creative development at Audible, Kate Nath. Head of Audible Originals North America, Marshall Lewin. Chief content officer, Rachel Giazza. Copyright 2026 by Audible Originals, LLC. Sound recording copyright 2026 by Audible Originals, LLC.

47:03You stepped out for your morning jog. Except it's not your usual morning jog. You started listening to an epic sci-fi book on Audible. Thirty chapters later, you've accidentally run a half marathon. You lost track of how far you've run somewhere just past the city limits. You can't stop. You have to find out what happens next. Then it's over. The universe seems bigger. You feel different. You feel like you have no idea where you are. Audible. Stories that speak to you.

From the publisher

After years on top, Sweet’N Low is sinking fast. Newer artificial sweeteners aspartame and sucralose are spawning fresh competition. But the problems go even deeper – because within its own ranks, fraudsters are draining Sweet’N Low's coffers.

If you’d like to hear more about the artificial sweetener business, you can listen to the audiobook version of “Empty Pleasures” by Carolyn de la Peña right now on Audible.

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