Best of Season Four: Part 1

28 Jul 2025 · 48 min

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Ruthie's Table 4: Best of Season Four - Part 1

Podcast Overview Podcast Title: Ruthie's Table 4 Host: Ruthie Rogers Podcast Description: Ruthie's Table 4 is a culinary podcast where Ruthie Rogers, co-founder of The River Cafe, converses with notable guests about food memories and cultural significance of food in their lives.

Episode Title: Best of Season Four: Part 1 Episode Description: In this episode, Ruthie revisits enlightening conversations with a selection of guests from Season Four, including Guillermo del Toro, Elton John, David Furnish, Zoe Saldana, Josh Brolin, Bella Freud, Alice Walters, and Anthony Scaramucci.

Key Guests and Their Contributions

  1. Anthony Scaramucci
  2. Background: Former White House Communication Director.
  3. Discussion Points:
  4. Reflects on his tumultuous 11 days in the Trump administration.
  5. Shares a poignant moment with his son during a challenging time post-firing.
  6. Emphasizes the importance of resilience and visibility of parental struggles for children.
  7. Discusses the dichotomy of eating habits in political circles, mentioning Trump’s preference for fast food.
  1. Zoe Saldana
  2. Background: Actress known for her diverse roles and cultural roots.
  3. Discussion Points:
  4. Shares experiences working at Burger King, highlighting her connection with diverse cultures through food.
  5. Describes how food serves as a bridge to understand different communities.
  6. Emphasizes the significance of cooking in her family and its role in connecting cultures.
  1. Elton John & David Furnish
  2. Background: Renowned musician and filmmaker, respectively.
  3. Discussion Points:
  4. Reflect on their upbringing and the impact of familial relationships on their culinary experiences.
  5. Share stories about meals and how they brought their family together.
  6. Discuss the importance of activism and societal contributions through food.
  1. Josh Brolin
  2. Background: Actor with experiences in ranch life.
  3. Discussion Points:
  4. Talks about growing up surrounded by animals and his mother's passion for wildlife rehabilitation.
  5. Shares memories of cooking and family meals, emphasizing the importance of food in family dynamics.
  1. Alice Waters
  2. Background: Chef and restaurateur known for her emphasis on local and sustainable food.
  3. Discussion Points:
  4. Discusses the inspiration behind founding Chez Panisse, linking it to social activism in the 1960s.
  5. Talks about the significance of seasonal and local ingredients in cultivating a community around food.
  1. Guillermo del Toro
  2. Background: Acclaimed director and storyteller.
  3. Discussion Points:
  4. Engages in a passionate discussion about tequila, exploring its cultural significance.
  5. Shares personal anecdotes that tie food to memory and experience.

Themes and Key Takeaways

  • Food as a Cultural Connector:
  • Many guests reflect on how food serves as a bridge to connect diverse cultures and communities.
  • Cooking and sharing meals foster relationships and understanding.
  • Resilience and Growth:
  • Scaramucci's story highlights how challenging experiences can shape one’s character and provide life lessons.
  • The act of nurturing through food is emphasized as a form of resilience.
  • Nostalgia and Memory:
  • Guests often tie significant life moments to food experiences, showcasing how meals can evoke powerful memories.
  • The connection between food and emotional well-being is a recurring theme.
  • Social Activism:
  • Several guests, particularly Alice Waters, emphasize the intersection of food and social activism, advocating for sustainable practices and community engagement.

Conclusion This episode encapsulates the essence of Ruthie's Table 4, where food transcends mere sustenance to embody love, culture, and personal history. Each guest brings a unique perspective, enriching the narrative around the role of food in shaping identities and relationships. As the season wraps up, listeners are invited to reflect on their own food memories and the stories they carry.

For more episodes and culinary inspiration, visit [The River Cafe](https://rivercafe.co.uk/).

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Transcript

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0:00This is an iHeart Podcast.

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1:09In October, I sat down at the River Cafe with director Guillermo del Toro for the first episode in a new season of Ruthie's Table 4. Forty guests later, Season 4 has come to an end and we thought it would be fun to look back at some of those conversations. Today, we'll be hearing from Elton John, David Furnish, Zoe Saldana, Josh Brolin, Bella Freud, Alice Walters, and we'll begin with Anthony Scaramucci, former White House Communication Director, famously for 10 days. If you're ever having a bad day and you're listening to this podcast, I want you to imagine my day on the 31st of July, 2017, when I got my ass fired from the White House, blown into Pennsylvania Avenue, skinned alive by the media, rolled in margarita salt.

1:59And I was on the Santa Monica promenade. I don't know if you've ever been out there at that open door promenade on 3rd and 4th Street. And my son at that time, he's 33 now, but he was 25 then. He put his arm around me and he said, Dad, are you going to be okay? It was the first time in my life where my son was parenting me as opposed to me parenting him. and I didn't really remember the feeling if I was going to be okay or not, but I remember what I said to him. I said, yeah, I'm going to be okay. Watch what I do with this. And I think it's very important for kids to see their parents get through things, whatever they may be, because then in their mind they have space for their own failures.

2:40They have space for whatever they come up short on in their lives where they can say, okay, well, it happened to my mom or it happened to my dad, and they were able to get through it. I can too. what you described as one of the worst imaginable situations of being fired. What was that? Tell me what that was like. First of all, before you went. First of all, I deserve to be fired. We can talk about that, too, so you have to be accountable. I should have never taken that job. I mean, this is a joke inside the family. I mean, my wife hates Trump. Tell us what the job was. Okay, so I was the White House communications director for 11 days.

3:14I mean, my wife hates Donald Trump like almost as much as Melania hates him. So, I mean, that's like way up here, right? And so, I mean, and she told me not to do it. And this is a real cautionary tale. I did it for ego-related reasons. I had grown up in a blue-collar family. I went to Tufts and Harvard Law School. I had started two successful businesses, sold one in my late 30s. And so I had some financial independence, and now I had a chance to work for the American president. And the funny thing about this is it's just a sign of my bad judgment or my immaturity. My mentor, who I totally respect, who's about 10 years older than me, was given a big job in the administration.

3:57And in December, he called me to say he wasn't taking it. And I said, what? And he said, no, I'm not going to take it. I spent enough time with Trump to know that we're like oil and water. And it's going to end badly for me if I take the job. and my ego's in the right place and I'm not going to take the job. But that wasn't me, Ruthie. I took the job because my ego and my pride were driving me to the notion that I was going to work in the White House and help solve some problems and work on policy and help people. I mean, there was a little bit of idealism in there, but what there really was, was a lot of egocenturism.

4:33It was filling the self-narrative of me and it was quite detrimental. I mean, Deirdre and I almost got divorced. I missed the birth of my fifth child. I was in, it still pains me to talk about it, but I'll share it here. James was born on July 24th, 2017. It was a Monday. I was with President Trump at the Boy Scouts event in West Virginia. Deirdre and I were fighting. She was due on August 8th or 9th, and she was delivering prematurely a couple of weeks early, and there's a 60-mile no-fly zone around Air Force One. So when Air Force One comes into an area, they have fighter planes, but they also have, you know, you can't go over Air Force One, you can't fly over that airspace.

5:22And so it was an impossibility to get back to New York. So I missed the birth of my son. So you have to imagine this week, I'm working for President Trump. It is not going well because there's a lot of internecine fighting in the White House. Trump is doing things that a lot of us are looking at saying, I don't really want to be involved with that. Fighting with him. Then I get fired, almost divorced, missed the birth of my son. So again, if you're having a bad weekend, everybody's having a bad week, give me a call. I can tell you about a really bad week, but we should take it back to food. But I'm just saying to you.

5:56No, I agree. I know. I think, okay, tell me who eats better, the Democrats or the Republicans? I had one meal with Trump in the White House in the Blue Room. Okay, tell us what it's like to eat. Was it lunch or dinner? It was on a Wednesday. And you know how I know it was a Wednesday? I was only there for one Wednesday, Ruth. So I know it was a Wednesday. So I had beef wellington. This son of a bitch is going to live to 500 years old. He eats well-done meat with ketchup. Okay, but the chef in the White House was making a beef wellington, and he loved it. I think he had it, you know, I probably had it like two out of five weekday nights.

6:31And so I had beef wellington with him in a salad. What else did you eat with him? You know, he likes, I mean, hamburgers on the campaign. Remember, I did nine months of campaigning with Trump, so there's a tremendous amount of fast food. This guy eats McDonald's french fries, quarter pounders with cheese, Jimmy John's cold cuts. Does he seem to enjoy it? Does he sit there savoring it, or is it just getting the food down? No, no, no. He is a fast food maniac. Yeah, that's depressing. By the way, I mean, he would come off the plane. We were campaigning. He'd be like asking the cops where the Burger King was.

7:04And he'd be like, what do you want from Burger King? I'm like, I don't want anything from Burger King. One of Zoe Saldana's mantras in life is feel the fear and do it anyway. And what hasn't she done? She dances, she acts, she sings, she speaks several languages, and I think she loves to cook. My family has been in New York since 1960s. and I lived there until I was 10. From 10 to 17, I was in Dominican Republic. And you went back to New York? When I was 17. My mom is working. My stepdad is working. My sisters and I were finding our afternoon sort of placements. I was working also on the weekends at Burger King.

7:50Wait, stop there. What were you doing? I worked at Burger King. And what did you do there? I did the drive-thru. you know I would hi welcome to Burger King might take your order there was a lady from Guyanese lady who was like my boss and I just loved her accent welcome to Burger King might take your order like and I would I would like I wasn't making fun of her I would just try to kind of acquire this this accent because it was also like I now that I'm back in New York I'm reconnecting with all these multi-cultures all over the place and a lot of a big part of them was connecting with other Caribbean people.

8:26You know, we're from Spanish Antillas. So the West Indies, English Antillas and the British Islands or whatever, like we didn't really have that in Dominican Republic. So now I'm connecting with Jamaicans. I'm connecting with people from Aruba, St. Lucia, Grand Cayman, Cuba. So, and Queens is definitely a very big West Indian. And so is Brooklyn, West Indian melting pot. So I was going bananas for the food. It was so good. And so I worked with a whole bunch of Caribbean people, but we were from different parts at Burger King, and it was fun. I feel like that's when my curiosity over human behavior and who we are as people began.

9:07I think a restaurant does teach you that. Absolutely. I always say that walk into a restaurant, look at a table, everybody having fun, and everybody has a story. That's why I really love walking in a restaurant. And one of my managers was this woman who must have been in her late 30s, but she drove to work in a motorcycle. You know, she was just, stop, can I get a muffin junior? Like she would just talk like, I'm a muffin junior. She just had a way of like talking. And I just remember I would like just doze off observing people and hearing their accents because now I'm in New York again. I'm getting to hear the world again.

9:43My life was very multicultural. It was from the beginning. I think growing up in New York, you're just around just the world at all times. Pick a block and you'll have like three continents and 10 different countries. And you can eat. And I feel like you do get to know people and communities through their food. And a lot happens when you break bread with individuals. You just, I don't know, there's an unspoken word that makes it permissible for you to connect with people that look obviously different, and speak differently, smell differently from you. And yet through the food that they're sharing with you, you get a piece of who they are and vice versa.

10:23So New York is that special still to this day for me. Did you have Chinese food? Did you have any food? Oh, my God. Every Sunday. Did you? Oh, my God. The American families, they go like every Sunday to like a diner and they'll have like pancakes. Oh, God. Why would I start the day eating cake? Like I don't, you know, but like I said, I have a savory tooth. So we would wake up and go either to Flushing in Queens, which is the second biggest sort of like Chinatown Asian community outside of Chinatown in downtown Manhattan. Or we would just go to Chinatown and we would have dim sum. You know, on Saturday nights you have Korean barbecue.

11:04Friday nights you have Korean barbecue. Or sometimes if my family that was visiting from Dominican Republic that are half Dominican, half Japanese, they were in town, we would go have shabu-shabu. Or you go to 7th Street in Roosevelt and you would have like Indian food. That was our community there for Indian food. That shows a real curiosity. I mean, that shows a passion that they really cared about. It was always through food. Mind you, there was still a simplicity. We didn't go any deeper than that. But by the time I would meet someone that comes from that part of the world, and if I've tried their dish before, I felt like I already knew half of them.

11:45Eating other world's foods feeds your curiosity, and you do remain open, going, okay, so I know your dishes, some of your dishes. It's like, I want to know more about you.

12:01We have good news. Ruthie's Table 4 is launching on YouTube. Throughout the summer, we'll be posting some of our favorite interviews across the series. To watch, go to youtube.com slash hat symbol Ruthie's Table 4 pod.

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13:39An open kitchen in the River Cafe gives me the chance to watch people having dinner with their children. David and Elton uniquely engage with theirs, focused, listening, laughing, all four in their own private world. Recently, sitting next to Elton at a dinner in the River Cafe, we had no small talk. We spoke immediately about Elton John AIDS Foundation, the polarized world we seem to be living in, and what we need to do as citizens. David and Elton are activists. They registered their civil partnership in 2005. On the first day, it was legal in the UK, leading the way for others to follow with confidence and with pride.

14:20I grew up after the war, so everything was on my own. Yeah, early life. Yeah, I was born in the council house. I lived with my mother, my grandmother, because my father was away in the Air Force abroad. Was it your mother's mother? Yes, my grandmother. She was fantastic. What was she like? She was wonderful. She could cook anything and make it taste incredible. I mean, basic ingredients were hard to get after all of them. We were rationed, and so bacon was partly a no-no. But she made, I never remember a bad meal or going hungry, and everything that was left over she made into something else the next day.

14:54And what I loved about her, because I had the biggest sweet tooth, are her bread puddings and her apple pies and her scones and her Victoria sponges. It was very simple. The kitchen was, again, the coal cellar was in the kitchen. Can you believe it? The laundry was done on the stove in a boiler and we had a mangle. It was a very basic upbringing. but I can never remember the smell of cooking was always wonderful and she could cook anything. I fell in love with very basic simple English food at that point. I think that simple English food, as you talk about bread pudding and apple pie, those are very, they're not easy to make, you know, and it's to do with the ingredients and the method and the way you cook.

15:41Yeah. And things like spotted-dicking custard. I always walk into a restaurant, say, in Yorkshire or something like that, and sometimes they have things like that on the menu, and you go, oh, my God, that's what it didn't go. Which for me is just a sheer delight. I always sometimes think that you go to St. John, for instance, they have Eccles cakes, and the Eccles cakes are incredible, and they serve it with the cheese, and it's just like, wow, manna from heaven. Nowadays, unfortunately, I can't eat it because I'm semi-diabetic. But I do like those English stalwarts a lot. I do, too. Well, so growing up, you had a mother and a grandmother in the house, and your father was where?

16:22He was away in the Air Force in Aden, and so I didn't really see much of him. So it was a woman's household. My mom's sister, my aunt was always there as well. So I grew up with a bunch of women who knew how to cook, which was great. And you all sat down to a meal every night together. Yes, and we toasted our toast by the fire. The thing about my grandmother was that because we had a garden, We grew all our own produce because it was so much cheaper. And my grandmother had green fingers, so we always had fresh vegetables. Hardly ever had processed peas. I mean, the great advantage in those days, that food wasn't really instant, no instant whips, no instant this, mashed potato.

17:01It was all genuinely from the garden, which was delicious. So, I mean, I remember shelling the peas every Sunday morning. That was, like David, Sunday roast was very important for the family gathering. So shelling the peas was one thing, peeling the potatoes was another, broad beans was another. So we always had good produce because we couldn't afford to buy them because, you know, times were hard after the war. And the Russian, we had a tiny bottle of orange juice which you diluted and poured the water into. But I never felt as if we were missing anything. You didn't feel denied. No, no. But neither of your mothers worked.

17:38They didn't have to combine a career with cooking. Your mother worked. My mother worked all the time. and worked really, really hard as well. And she worked in a shop. She worked in a dairy. She worked at the Air Force. She's always, but she'd always come home and make dinner. Yeah, she was a very hard-working woman, but still cooked. She raised Elton as a single mom. And so, you know, his ability to, you know, study and take lessons and learn and everything, his mom worked very, very hard providing for the family to allow him to do that. That's what got him on his path to be who he is today. Did you ever go to restaurants as a child?

18:12No, the only time I remember going to a restaurant is when I went to a Chinese restaurant in Haro. We lived in Pina. And Chinese restaurants suddenly became the rage. Coffee bars were the rage before that. But we went for a Chinese meal. It was the first restaurant I can ever remember going to. And it was just, wow, we had bean sprouts. And it was just so delicious. And it was so exotic. And I remember I was so excited to go to this Chinese restaurant. There weren't many in the area. There was one in Haro. There wasn't certainly one in Pina, but it was just an incredible occasion. And that's the first exotic food I ever really had.

18:47How old were you? I don't know, eight or nine maybe. Yeah. And did you go to restaurants? It was a very, very special treat. Special occasion. Yeah, because, again, it was expensive and it was a big treat. What we never had was fast food. My mother was very anti-fast food. She just didn't think it was good for us. I think she was ahead of her time with that. There wasn't any fast food when I grew up. I'm that old. Fast food was boiling the cabbage for 10 minutes instead of 15. When I went to school, there was a wimpy bowl when I was about 15. That's the first fast food place I can ever remember.

19:26My dad was more of a subservient type, and my mother was not. My mother just made things happen. She was always making things happen, whether it was food, whether it was whatever she was involved with had a high-octane gasoline involved. My friend, Josh Brolin. So you described Josh living on a ranch from an early age, your mother taking you out of an urban existence and into the wild, and that includes animals and her passion for animals, her protection of animals. Can you tell me a bit about what that was like as a child? She moved out of L.A. to a place called Paso Robles, California, which is about 200 miles north of Los Angeles.

20:13I think I was five at the time. And she always had animals before that. She had cages. So she ran a wildlife way station. She would take animals who had illegally been taken out of the wild, and she would have those people jailed, and she would nurse those animals back to health. If they'd been defanged or declawed, she would find the most habitable zoo. So, you know, she would find those Lion Country safari type places. But, you know, there were a lot of, there were wolves. My brother got 60 stitches in his leg from a wolf. We cleaned the cages. There were mountain lions. I have a picture right here.

20:49I mean, you want me to show you the picture? I have a picture of an adolescent mountain lion in my crib. In my crib. Oh, my gosh. Is that you? Is that you? That's me. That's a mountain lion. God. I mean, that's me. If you look at every single picture of me as a kid, if you swipe, my face looks like the attempt to eat it off has been had. It makes me kind of crazy to think of that. No, I, yeah. I'm sorry. This makes me crazy. Oh, it's insane. Yeah. It's insane. That's nothing. And there was no protection for you. There was never anybody around who said this can't happen. And I don't victimize my book.

21:37No, you don't. When you read my book, I don't victimize myself, and I don't feel victimized. No. But there is an indictment. I was talking to Howard Stern about it, and he said, you don't indict your parents. I said, I do. The reality is they're incredibly irresponsible because that was the least of it. We had to clean those cages. You go in there at eight years old, and you have a rake, and you're looking at a wolf in the eye. But if you look down too much, it's going to see you as prey and weak. But if you confront too much, it's going to see it as a confrontation and attack. Do you remember domestic life?

22:14Would you sit down to meals? Would there be food on the table? Always. That was the one thing. It's the one through line that I remember in my childhood because, you know, I'd wake up sometimes. my brother and I would wake up 3 o 'clock in the morning with my mother shaking us and saying I want a Whataburger and then would drive 1500 miles with us in the car even though we had school 1500 miles oh yeah 1500 miles, my mother didn't fly she had been a stewardess what is a Whataburger? Whataburger, Texan burger that started in Corpus Christi it's like our In-N-Out burger in America so it's the name of a brand And she had a craving for it.

22:57That was it. You'd get in the car and you'd be in the car for four or five days. What would that feel like? It was good. There was something that was great about the adventure of it, which I think is still in me. My brother, it's interesting because my brother didn't have, as my dad describes, the fight in him that I had. So she would, with waking you up at 3 in the morning or having the animals that you describe so vividly in your book or the ranch, there was a kind of structure that we would always sit down to a meal? Always. Yeah, that's why I say it's the only kind of domestic reality within our family.

23:38My dad was constantly traveling because he was working. My mom was always looking for something to do and something to kind of mix up, and then there would be her cooking. So describe her kitchen and the house. The house was just put up for sale, so I was able to see an actual picture because the ranch is three miles from the ranch that we're on now. So where I grew up is three miles away from where our ranch is now. And where is that? Paso Robles, California. Where is that? Central Coast, California. How far from? Four hours north of L.A., three and a half hours south of San Francisco. Salinas Valley, close to Steinbeck country and all that.

24:20So I could see what my memory was. But it's a very Spanish type, you know, Spanish tiles, all handpicked by her. Yeah. And the stove was always, I always remember the flames, high flames in the stove. And then I would get up. I don't know why I started doing this. I'm thinking about it now. I would get up on Saturdays usually and I would cook breakfast for my whole family. And by yourself, you let the flame. You let the flame. I had the flame, the eggs, over medium, over easy. I had the toast. I had the bacon. I had biscuits sometimes. But I don't know why. I don't know what it was about. There was some meditation.

25:02Obviously, I wanted to please them. I loved the, maybe that was just me trying to extend that thing. Like, you stay in bed. I'm going to take care of you. Together. Yeah. I'm going to take care of you. It's funny. I haven't thought of that in so long. Do you think you used recipes or did you just instinctively know? No, it was instinctive. It was always instinctive. And my kids, my older kids who are 36 and 31 now will tell you that I made either the greatest food or the worst food that I would eat. Because if we were out at the ranch and it was like, look, this is what we have. Like I didn't go to the grocery store today.

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25:36This is what we have. So you have to experiment with what you have. And sometimes that kind of experimenting would turn out brilliant. And sometimes it would turn out like regurgitation. I remember my daughter crying and saying, it tastes so bad. I'd go, you have to eat it. And I think that was the kind of connective tissue I had of my mother because the one time that my family was a family family, the kind of family that you see in Leave It to Beaver, even though it was as far from Leave It to Beaver as you can imagine, was dinner, and my mother always cooked. My mother cooked every day. Cooking was her thing.

26:16Cooking was her art. Cooking was her canvas. I'm reading your book last night, and the amount of times that telephones were slammed down or noise was made or people running away, or the anger or the fury or the... Looking back on that, you know, and then sitting down to dinner. Would dinners calm, though? Would she kind of want the food eaten properly, or would they also be a place for dramatic interaction? No, it wasn't. No, even the thing that you're referencing is the phone being slammed down and her throwing cups through a window at my dad and all that, which was immediately followed by a breakfast.

27:00Immediately. I say I didn't even pick up on that. It didn't happen. It was just where the breakfast was. We just went literally right back to this default of the semblance of normal, some normalcy. There was nothing normal about it. Yeah. but when you look around and everybody's kind of got this kind of gorgeous morning smile, like we were outside and, mm, vitamin D. Yeah. Vitamin D, yeah. Getting ready for the day. And it's like, do you remember what we were doing just like for the last four hours? Yeah. Which was total insanity. And I think that's why when I went out into the world, that was the shock.

27:42The shock wasn't what I was experiencing because I didn't know any different. And then I got older and went out into the world and started dealing with people on the level that I had gotten used to. And then you see people reacting. I think that's why I like being in Italy. Because? I think people are just less, they're more animated. Yeah. It seems to vibe with how I was raised. Without the chaos. Without the chaos. Yeah. My husband came from a very Italian family. He could stay out until 5 in the morning. He could do everything that he wanted to do. He didn't have to dress in a certain way. He had to be home for mealtimes.

28:22It was us. That was the structure. And Jake Gyllenhaal said he opened up his podcast saying that food was the only functional thing in a dysfunctional family. And I know him and his parents. And his parents. But he said it. I said, can I say that? And he talked about going to the market in, I don't know, Westwood or Pacific Palisades with his father and seeing the food. And what about your mother's dinners? Her dinners were, there was a lot of Mexican food. There was a lot of Italian food. There was a lot of Southern food. Did she read cookbooks, do you think? So my mother, at our ranch now, we have an entire very large bookshelf of just her cookbooks.

29:06I would love to see those sometime. Oh, my God. I would love to tell me about them. I mean, they're all original cookbooks from decades. You know, I have in the book, too. Let me see if I can find it. There's a thing that in the beginning where I say. You said that she introduced herself in restaurants. She would go into restaurants. No, she would always end up in the kitchen. And always say that she would end up in the kitchen. Always. Yeah. Always. I think that, let's see, Dusty Fires, she made it. And the cook in the back, a lanky 28-year-old who didn't know that he was her prey for the evening.

29:42She showed him how to better stir the sauce. She made him hold his hand over hers as they flipped a dish in a pan. She asked him who his favorite country western singers were and if he had ever been to a proper rodeo. He was toast as far as I was concerned. I knew it was going to be a long night and that I might as well go back out into that parking lot and see what I could find in the desert beyond it. parents of the bones we cut our teeth on but they never talk about the parents own teeth they never talk about the bite you learn to see coming I dreamed about her last night and I awoke happy but sweating because every moment with her was exciting you couldn't just go have a meal in a restaurant she had to take over the entire restaurant did you find it exciting or sometimes embarrassing both yeah I think both because why wouldn't it be embarrassing as a child?

30:36Children, you know, like don't bring attention to us. But then at the same time I could tell, I mean, it was like living with Salvador Dali. It was like I remember hearing my dad saying I saw Salvador Dali running down the street. It was like running down Lexington Avenue with a pork chop cape on. It's like there's just those people. Why him? Why did he do that? Why did she do that? Why did he dress that way? Somebody wears jeans and a black T-shirt every day, and somebody dresses in the nicest dresses they can get, Versace and this and that. My mom just acted the way she was unapologetically herself.

31:15And there's light growing up on the ranch when you have to feed 48 horses or 58 horses every morning. When you're doing it, it sucks. It's horrible. It's just labor. but when you look back on it you go thank god for that upbringing thank god i had to get up and get out into the elements every single morning before i went to school it made me who i am

31:47whenever i'm with bella freud which isn't often enough i always wish i could see more of her She's in fashion, and I'm in food. A meal is a moment, and an outfit changes daily. Right now, I'm wearing Bella's iconic 1970s sweater. A few years ago, she created a nemesis sweater for the River Cafe, and one of my most treasured possessions is a Bella sweater saying, Bella this, Bella that. In our early years, Bella's father, Lucian Freud, came almost every day to the River Cafe. when with Bella we were told never to interrupt as this was their precious time. Thank you, Ruthie. It's so nice to have you here.

32:29And it is true, you did come with your dad. Yeah, and sometimes you do whisk me away when I'm here and it's so nice. I love it. You beckon to me and say, come here, and then we stand behind a corner and talk. What are they doing? What are they doing in this world? We have to talk or just talk about each other. What are your memories of your dad coming here? I remember we came here when it first started. We'd jump in the car and then he drove very fast, terribly, terrifyingly. I'm very good at kind of masquerading a calmness, and some of it's learnt from sitting next to him while he drove in this petrifying way.

33:07He'd drive very fast towards something and then swerve suddenly. So then we'd arrive and have this great food. And I remember he also used to come here with Lee Bowery, and Lee used to learn all about food from eating out with Dad and coming here. And I always remember this moment, him saying, yes, the poached pears are very good. It was so lovely. I remember one day he came, and we had a sign on the door because we were painting the restaurant. We closed for lunch. We only opened for lunch. and I said, Lucy, I'm really, really sorry that, you know, we're closed today but I'll cook you something.

33:50And he said, I have a better idea, I'm going to take you out to lunch. And yeah, he took me to Kensington Place and we had lunch. It was just fantastic. It was, you know, spontaneous and kind and just caring and talking to me and asking me about me, you know, and it was very, it was one of the great moments of my life. He was fun, he was such good company. He made you feel so special. And he used to come in those trousers with paint all over them. And, you know, he was great. Yeah, it was exciting. It was very interesting that you were saying that a lot of your experience of eating with him was in restaurants.

34:26I remember going, because I lived in the country and I'd come up to London. And all my sort of encounters with him as I got to know him when I was little were, we used to go to Marine Ices when I was very small. and then he would take us to this Greek restaurant in Notting Hill. But it was always a meeting to do with being in a restaurant. And the food, I would be quite nervous, so the food was probably secondary. But that was the context. And then, you know, when I'd sit for him, when I moved to London when I was 16, we'd work and have this break and zoom out go somewhere very fast and come back but then sometimes he would cook usually i would do a night painting so i'd arrive before the light he famously painted at night didn't he just yeah he would do yeah i remember that now as you say yeah so he'd have day sitters and night sitters and so he could work all the time and there'd be like this wonderful routine of arriving and he used to have lapsang sushong tea so we'd have some tea and then he would have things like liver pate and stuff I mean it was just from the local you know it wasn't fancy or anything but it was something that actually tasted it was delicious and so it would always be exciting there was almost nothing in his fridge too so between the two of them.

36:05But what there was was really good. So we would sit around and talk and read or whatever and have this tea and things, and then we'd start working. And what was that like for you? At that point you were 16, 17. 16, 17, yeah. And so you would sit there. Would he talk to you while you were there? Yeah. And we always got on, even as a baby. We had a close relationship, but it was really the start of me getting to know him and then it was nice to be able to do something for him which was sitting for him. So I was good at that. And he would talk to you and he would... Yeah, he would talk. How long would they go on for?

36:45So the first session would be an hour and then it would be 45 minutes. That's when I would get slightly uncomfortable and he'd say, would you like a break? And so we'd have a... After every 45 minutes we'd have a break and he would talk a lot. He must have loved that. No, it was just great. He must have been to have your daughter sitting there and to be working and to be, you know, painting or drawing and to have you there must have been very important to him, don't you think? Well, I suppose he could see that I was really invested. I loved sitting for him. I was so interested in everything and I learned, you know, So he, like people I was interested in, like Jean Cocteau and Diaghilev and all these people.

37:31And then he'd tell me about Fats Waller and I'd learn about things that I didn't know. But he played music by you, absolutely. Sometimes he had a record player and sometimes he'd put on Fats Waller or sometimes Johnny Cash. He liked Johnny Cash. And then we'd dance around the edge of the room because he had this very nice carpet. So he'd say, oh, careful of the carpet. And then we'd dance around the edge of it. It was not very often, but sometimes. And then sometimes he would cook a grass. He loved... He did like game. I remember that. Actually, it's interesting that you say that because I kind of remember in game season that Lucien would always have a grouse or a partridge.

38:18Yeah, he'd get them from Allen's in Mount Street, which I don't think exists anymore. So he cooked for you? Yeah, he was a really good cook. And it was very simple. He had a sort of crummy old cooker, and he was very specific and particular about how things were, and everything tasted amazing. And so it was exciting. And then even if he made scrambled eggs, it would just be completely delicious, and he had olive oil and good salt and Perrier water. It was the first time I ever saw bottled water. And then he'd have very, very good wine and champagne sometimes. And would you like a glass? You know, everything was just, it was like, you know, somewhere between being in a squat and a top restaurant.

39:15It was just all the sensation and the experience and the taste. It was unforgettable. And so I've always been more interested in that sort of condensed taste rather than an abundance of food.

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40:57If you're not absolutely in love, send it back for a full refund. No return shipping or restocking fees. Every penny back. Upgrade now at washablesofas.com. Offers are subject to change and certain restrictions may apply. Parking shouldn't slow you down. ParkWiz gives every driver a shortcut. Book ahead, save up to 50 % and skip the hassle of circling the block. Park smarter, park faster. ParkWiz. Download the ParkWiz app today and save every time you park. Alice, I'd love to hear your story of starting Chez Panisse. And I know that it was almost part of your activism as a person in the early 60s when the United States was in the tumult of the free speech movement, of the Vietnam War, and you were at Berkeley.

41:49Tell me what really inspired you to start a restaurant. Well, it began really in that free speech movement with the leadership of Mario Savio. And he said to all of us, you need to visit other cultures, understand the way people think around the world. And he said, if you can, you should take off your junior year and go to some other country. So I did. I went to France in 1965. and it really did change my life, not just because of the food that was so extraordinary, but because of the beauty of the culture of France. I fell in love with Notre Dame, sitting by the Seine, drinking a glass of wine.

42:49I walked everywhere. I loved the farmer's markets. And I came back home and I just said, I want to live like the French. And I had friends who felt the same way. And in our naivete, we thought, well, maybe if we open a little French restaurant, the food will come. And it did. It sure did. Did you have chefs who knew how to do a meal for people who came in at seven? Some people came in at nine. Some people wanted fish. Some people wanted. How did you? Did you know how to? Well, I had one menu. I wanted it to be like the little restaurants in Paris where you ate things that you may not have ever had before that we could curate according to the season.

43:47and what we loved to cook. Well, strangely, and over time, and because it was very affordable, people liked it a lot. And they came because it was in an old house, and they came and they felt like they were eating at home. And that is really part of, I think, my Montessori training, which said that you need to appeal to all of your senses because they are our pathways into our minds. And so I wanted the restaurant to smell good. I used to burn rosemary out in front of the restaurant, so it smelled like the south of France. And I knew that a fireplace in the kitchen would give an aroma. I knew the candles on the table would be beautiful.

44:50But it was taste I was looking for when I got back from France. I wanted to eat and live like the French. And I didn't find taste until I found the farmers. When you say you wanted to eat like the French ate and shopped like the French shopped, can you tell me about what that meant? Well, it meant that you only ate food in season and only local food. You know, I fell in love with those wild strawberries in the fall, and all of a sudden they were gone. And they said, oh, you have to go up in the woods and pick them. And I just didn't believe that people spent their time doing that and bringing them down from the woods and selling them to the restaurateurs.

45:50And, of course, in the end, that's what we did. We really bought the food directly. And when we started doing that at Chippenies, everybody in the state wanted to sell to us because we left out the middleman.

46:16Guillermo del Toro in his extraordinary movies Pan's Lambermouth, The Shape of Water, Pinocchio takes us to his worlds but when he and I met in the river cafe, My World we started talking and we didn't really stop for two hours when our conversation moves to the really important topic of the day tequila, Guillermo asked for two bottles announcing he wanted to teach me the ultimate way to experience his and my favorite drink. Can you just tell me and everybody else what is tequila? What is the definition of tequila? Well, it needs to come from the region, just like Champagne or Bordeaux. It needs to come from the region of tequila.

46:55Which is? Which is a town in Jalisco, which is where I am from. And the agave plant, which takes so long to grow, and you can harvest it. It takes so many years to harvest it that the fields are very, very large and it's a very fraught industry, the McGee industry, because the price goes incredibly up and incredibly down and there's a lot of fluctuation. And then they cook what they call the pineapple, the heart of the plant. And they cook it in some places like many of the brands that are now squeezing it forcefully, you know, they just cook it fast, cook it modern, pressurize it, blah, blah, blah.

47:44But the really good tequila, they cook it the same way with a traditional oven. They almost caramelize it. Oh, they roast it. They roast it, yeah. And caramelize it. Yeah, and then obviously they have to extract the juice from the plant. The heart of a plant gives you that. And then it has to be aged, and it takes quite a bit. And depending on how long they age it and in what type of wood, that gives the tequila characteristics. So this is Fernando. You've met Fernando. What do we serve in the River Cafe? We serve all the Bon Julio range, the Blanco, the Reposado Añejo, and the 1942, and Tapatillo Blanco.

48:29Okay. So what is that one? Maestro Tequilero. This is actually the first time I'm seeing this bottle. I did some research. I like it. Yeah? It's very woody, I would say, very oaky. Very, very woody, very oaky. So name the tequila. What is it called? Maestro Tequilero. Okay, so I found that this morning in my cupboard. I like it. Very sweet. The Telegraph, I think it was the Telegraph of the Times, did a questionnaire with me, and they said, what is your luxury? I said, well, I have two luxuries. One is going to a museum when it's closed. because you have it close out. That's amazing. And the other luxury is tequila.

49:02So I didn't get many museums, but now when anybody comes to my house, they bring me tequila. I thought it would be good to bring you things from my hometown or my region to go with the tequila. Somebody needs to help. Yeah, let's open that. Slicing the fruit jam. Okay. It's sort of like a quince paste, you know? I think we need to know. But it's made of several fruits. And again, this is from my region. When we serve cheese, I like cheese as it comes, but very often in Italy you'll find that a cheese plate or cheeses will come with a jam, with a sweet, especially in the north of Italy. And we make our own.

49:46Oh, really? Yeah, we make a fig, we make a quince, and we serve it with cheese, don't we? We have the cheese plate. Okay, what about the, we have here. The paste. The paste. And we have the cheese. Tell me about the cheese. Well, the... Because I did this under order. My favorite cheese in the world for me with a sweet thing is the manchego. Because the manchego to me is like a milkshake. It's like really, really milky. It's really, really deserty. I'll take it with a cookie. We have the Steve. You should also have... What I like is a combination of a very raw cookie, you know, with the manchego and a little bit of the paste.

50:30Oh, thank you, Rudy. Thank you. There we go. This is very nice. Okay, so let's try it. Come on, try one. Try one. Let's get a biscuit. Yeah. I'm interested that you like these. These are the digestive biscuits. You wouldn't get these in Mexico, would you? No. No. So what would you eat this with without a... This is a very English... You get a wheat cracker. Yeah, because these are slightly sweet, aren't they? Try the manchero with this and them. Okay. You'll see why I like it. Okay, with this and with this? Yeah. So I'm putting half a digestive biscuit with a little bit of the jam. And now I'm going to put the jam.

51:06Yeah, and then take a good bite. I'm going to take a good bite. Oh, my God. Oh, my God. It's Sunday, and I've seen the Lord. Life is good, huh? Mm-hmm. This is really a good combination This is your lucky day, right? We have Fernando here With 235 people In the restaurant We should be working, but he's here with us They can manage

51:35Next week, heading into the summer break I'll be back with more highlights From season 4 See you then

51:47Thank you for listening to Ruthie's Table 4 in partnership with Montclair.

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From the publisher

 In October, I sat down at The River Cafe with director Guillermo del Toro for the first episode in a new season of Ruthie's Table 4. 40 guests later, season four has come to an end and we thought it would be fun to look back at some of those conversations.

Today we'll be hearing from Guillermo, Elton John, David Furnish, Zoe Saldaña, Josh Brolin, Bella Freud, Alice Walters, and Anthony Scaramucci.

Ruthie's Table 4, made in partnership with Moncler.

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

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